Thank you for one of the real videos on UA-cam. You should carry out the parting, so everybody can see what is truly involved in an Au/Ag assay. I feel you could have a real following, much like Sreetips formula for refining, only yours is assaying.I have yet to see a credible format on UA-cam for assaying. Thanks again.
Excellent content. I enjoy the assay procedures demonstration, qual./quan.. a humorous comment: Strange how the gray dust seems identical to my see-through dust collecting bin on household vacuum. Who knew I was classifying, but then discarding gold my whole adult life?
Great video! Love playing with different fluxes and trying to see what works best. Will try that chapman's mix you used with the NaC and Borax . I have also tried lead vs litharge and came to a similar conclusion.
Your analytics sets you apart from the majority of people doing videos by far, and I for one, really appreciate this. With that said, Pb, PbO, Bi and Bismuth Trioxide, etc..., they all perform at specific temperatures and duration. PbO converted to metal at the temperature and duration best, and with minimal volitazation of the lead. Bismuth trioxide will convert to metal at a much higher temperature, in fact. Lead oxide reduces to metallic lead in the presence of carbon or carbon monoxide, a process that can happen at temperatures around 800°C to 900°C (1472°F to 1652°F). This is indeed relatively low compared to other metals, which is why lead has been traditionally favored for cupellation. At these temperatures, the reduction happens efficiently with minimal volatilization if controlled properly. Bismuth trioxide requires significantly higher temperatures for conversion to metallic bismuth compared to lead. The reduction of Bi₂O₃ to Bi metal involves temperatures around 1200°C to 1250°C (2192°F to 2282°F). This higher temperature requirement can indeed complicate the process if not managed well, as it increases the risk of volatilizing not only bismuth but potentially other metals present. The key is precise control over the temperature and atmosphere in both setups. So, in your innovative approach, you're essentially playing a thermal chess game, where each move (temperature adjustment) has to be calculated to keep all your metallic pieces in play, ensuring they convert or oxidize at just the right moment. It's this kind of detailed understanding that can refine the ancient art of cupellation into something that's both environmentally friendly and economically savvy. Keep up the great work, and remember, in the world of metallurgy, temperature isn't just hot air-it's everything! ~ CHEERS
Hi Jatslo, As always, a useful and informative comment. Thanks! I can't get my old pottery kiln above 2200 F so I may be stuck with PbO for the time being.
@@orophilia Bi₂O₃ is a bad idea, is what I meant. Bi can be added to the lead to help mitigate the volatility of lead by completing the desired effect at a lower temperature. The PbO experiment either did not fully convert to metal or it was converted and some metal converted to gas, which is how PM's escape. Perhaps adjusting the duration is justified in terms of optimization? You're doing awesome!
@@orophilia Using lead oxide (PbO) at temperatures as high as 2100°F for collecting precious metals is extreme; however, it might work, if you can time it right. The reaction where carbon reduces lead oxide to lead can start at temperatures around 800°C to 900°C (1472°F to 1652°F). This is not an instantaneous conversion but rather occurs over a range, with efficiency increasing as the temperature rises. While the initial reduction might be observed within an hour under optimal conditions, achieving a high degree of conversion from PbO to Pb could take 2 to 4 hours or more in a practical setting, considering all the variables involved in industrial processes. For precise durations, experimental or operational data specific to your setup would be necessary. Understanding the reasons for lead loss in processes like smelting or cupellation can help in fine-tuning the operation for better efficiency and reduced volatilization. For instance, if PbO isn't fully reducing to Pb, it might indicate that the temperature isn't high enough or that the reducing conditions (like the presence of carbon or CO) are insufficient. Increasing the temperature slightly or enhancing the reducing atmosphere could help. I thought our PbO experiment was pretty close to optimal, so tweaking that initial process is best, IMHO. When introducing bismuth into smelting operations to collect precious metals, particularly in scenarios where you're looking to reduce lead usage or operate at lower temperatures, the ratio of bismuth to lead can vary based on the specific process goals, the composition of the ore, and the desired outcomes. For example, some smelters might start by replacing up to 30-50% of lead with bismuth. This is a compromise where you still leverage lead's properties for collection but introduce bismuth to lower the overall melting point of the alloy. This mitigates the vaporization of lead. Some literature suggests starting with 25% bismuth as a conservative substitution, gradually increasing it while monitoring the smelting's effectiveness and efficiency. It was interesting that you used flour. Flour burns off at relatively low temperatures, potentially requiring careful temperature management to ensure sufficient carbon for reduction is available at the right time. This only suggests that slow, and long burn is best. ~ CHEERS
Thank for this video. I would suggest to assay it after panning. Also panning and boiling concentrate in 10 ml of sulfuric acid for 30 minutes under reflux and wash in a 50 ml beaker. 1 gr of lead as collector is enough with 10 gr of anhydrous borax. You tell us later, bye.
Just a quick comment or two. One, I'm new to your channel and would like to be able to drop by some time in my travels. You have a great channel with a lot of thinking out loud. The second comment is about the possibilities of metal being separated from the button and caught in the flux or chipped off while liberating the button from the slag. I use a Falcon MD-20 detector to do a quick scan. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for the comment. I've found that assays require great care and a lot of experience, and I don't have enough of either. Nonetheless, it's both entertaining and useful.
You deserve more than one like, truly 👍 Imagine that there is more gold than the lead collector metal, how much gold can lead collect (depending on lead weight)?
The ore from Jason's mine was deposited in at least two different events. A bunch of course white quartz with iron Pyrotite, and a finer grained quartz with free gold and Tellurobismuthe.
That's really good information, thanks. The dark minerals in this sample don't look like pyrite, so I think they are a mix of Tellurides. If you know how to identify the minerals please let me know.
Or the gold ore could have been deposited in one metamorphic fluid event and the pyrite converted to pyrhotite by higher temperatures bought about by a nearby rising intrusion.
Pyrhotite is somewhat magnetic, pyrite is not. Tellurides are very rare. Compare under a binocular microscope. Im familar with many tellurides. Tellurobismuthe i am not.
There is a really good book on gold metallurgy called "the extractive metallurgy of gold" yanopollus. You need a copy. Good photos and classification of ore types. Get one...
@@orophilia The tellurobismuthite is silvery and much softer and cleaves off into little flexible plates and is associated with the rich gold band that Jason shows in his closeups of the vein. The pyrhotite is harder, more brassy colored and fractures unevenly.
Going to try out litharge for my ore and see how it works out. I always used bismuth and was disappointed with the results from it and not getting what I believe is possible
All good mate, but your average person is only going to pick a few special pieces and then crush the rest and get zero. It's a commercial ore and most of us cannot extract It's true value. If you're just a fan then buy a specimen and get it cut, polished and mounted on a nice hardwood base as a little show piece. Im an Australian prospector and I don't mess with selling online but maybe I should look into it, I have very rare sponge gold nuggets just waiting to be melted down. Great video.
To reemphasize, during smelting or cupelation, the process can get gassy. When you're heating things up to get gold, various gases can be produced, like sulfur dioxide, if there's sulfur in the mix, or even just plain old oxygen. Now, gold, being the noble metal it is, it doesn't usually like to gas off on its own. However, if you're not careful, these gases can whisk away some of your precious gold in the form of volatile compounds or simply by mechanical action, like tiny gold particles getting caught in the gas flow. This is particularly true, if you're dealing with processes that involve chlorine (aqua regia) or other reactive gases which could form volatile gold compounds. So, yes, the potential for losses are there. Really good chemistry is needed to make sure your gold stays where you want it - in your pocket, not in the air! It's the classic case of "death by a thousand cuts" but with gold flecks! Even if each little puff of gas only takes away a minuscule amount of gold, over time or in large-scale operations, this can add up to a significant loss. It's like if every time you walked through a doorway, a tiny speck of your wallet's contents decided to go on an adventure without you. Might not notice at first, but eventually, you're going to feel that pinch. In assays, precision is the name of the game. Even a tiny discrepancy can lead to big misunderstandings about the value or purity of the gold. Imagine telling someone they've struck a vein of low-grade gold when actually, due to losses during processing, it's more than thought. That could lead to some very disappointed prospectors or investors. Hence, meticulous control of the smelting or cupellation process isn't just science; it's an art form where every breath of gas could mean a breath of lost gold. Keeping those losses to a minimum ensures that what you see in the assay is what you get in the bank - or in your treasure chest. On the contrary chemicals are not likely to carry gold away as gases are produced; it is only when fire is applied that the utmost care should be taken. When we're just mixing chemicals, gold is pretty much the chill aristocrat of the periodic table, not easily swayed to leave the party. It doesn't usually form volatile compounds just by hanging out with other chemicals at room temperature. However, introduce fire into the equation, and things heat up in more ways than one. When you apply high temperatures, like in smelting, that's when you need to be on high alert! So, when the flames are licking at your crucible, that's when your inner alchemist must become vigilant. It's not the chemicals per se but the inferno's breath that could potentially whisk away your golden dreams. Therefore, controlling the temperature, atmosphere, and even the flow of gases in the furnace becomes paramount to keep your gold where it belongs - in your hand, not in the wind. ~ CHEERS
Thanks, Jatslo. Yes, the dragon's breath has whisked me away on my golden dream. I see the fire all around me now but the eyes of my soul are still clear. A golden rain is falling through the blackness and I rush to collect it before it disappears in a puff. Alas, the gold is gone! There's nothing left but the smell of a dog fart.
I feel like when you poured the molten liquid in the mold you aren't recovering all that is there. The liquid is quite viscous and the overflowed material didn’t have a chance to let the heavies settle... just my opinion, one ive formed from watching jasons videos! Very informative video nevertheless!
The XRF instruments have a small spot size, generally 1 cm or less, so it detects elements only in that region and only over a very small depth. For that reason it, due to the nugget effect, it can give highly variable results. So, the ore should be ground very fine, and many readings should be taken over different sample areas.
"For best results, it is necessary to stir the alloy with a wooden block before pouring for good contact of the collector with Au. I think so)))🤔" Yes, that might help, but I don't have a way to do that without pulling the crucible out of the oven and then putting it back in. Anybody else think that this helps with recovery?
That's a very little amount of gold for the amount of quartz.i go out to waist rock piles and get foot ball size chunks of quartz been averaging around 2 to 3 ounces foe half the rock.4 to 5 ounces for the hole rock..but the speck count is close to 20 to 30 percent of a lot of the ore is gold
Here is a question for you: I was able to get a free sample of "PR-1200 RTV PRIME." Allegedly, this primer can be applied to Teflon, in which "LOCTITE® SI 596" can be applied to create a seal. This involves a reactor that I'm building. I originally planned to use hardware, but that is getting expensive. For example, the "M3 Teflon Hex Nuts" are more than $5.00 each. My question: Do you have any experience with "PR-1200 Prime" and/or "LOCTITE® SI 596" for creating water/gas-tight seals in extreme environments? This reactor employs a Nafion 117 membrane that is primarily a proton exchange membrane that can pass some of the smaller cations like Sodium and possibly Silver. I' am more or less just throwing this out there on the off chance someone knows what I'm talking about. This is Grok's response: Grok: "While I don't have personal experience with the specific products in the exact context you're describing, let's discuss the general application of PR-1200 RTV Prime and LOCTITE® SI 596 based on information available up to October 2024: Products Overview: DOWSIL™ PR-1200 RTV Prime Coat: This primer is designed to enhance adhesion of silicone adhesives and sealants to various materials, including plastics like Teflon (PTFE), metals, ceramics, and glass. It's a silane-based primer, which is crucial for improving bond strength in applications where materials might not adhere well naturally. LOCTITE® SI 596: Known for its high-temperature resistance (up to 600°F or 316°C), this is a red, one-part RTV silicone sealant. It's formulated for sealing in extreme conditions, which could include high temperatures, thermal cycling, and exposure to various chemicals. It's used in industrial applications like furnaces, ovens, and exhaust systems. Application to Your Scenario: For Nafion 117: Nafion membranes are typically used in environments where chemical resistance and ion exchange are critical, like fuel cells. Nafion itself is highly chemically resistant but might not bond well with many adhesives without surface treatment or a primer. Creating Seals: PR-1200 Prime could potentially be used on Teflon parts or directly on Nafion (if compatible) to enhance adhesion for SI 596 or similar silicones. LOCTITE® SI 596 might then be applied over the primed surface to create a gas-tight seal. Given its properties, it should withstand the thermal and chemical conditions your reactor might be subjected to, assuming compatibility with your specific environment. Considerations: Compatibility: While these products are robust, always verify compatibility with your reactor's environment, especially the chemicals involved. Nafion 117's compatibility with sealants needs careful consideration due to its specific use in ion exchange. Testing: Given the specialized nature of your application, conducting small-scale tests under conditions similar to your operational environment is crucial."
The "PR-1200 RTV PRIME" sample finally arrived, and they sent two huge bottles; far more than what I needed. I appreciate the free samples, but can only find one video: ua-cam.com/video/8uOiGjPFUsU/v-deo.html. While I'm certain this prime will be useful, I'm not sure it will withstand the various acids and bases I employ. The samples were a business-to-business interaction, and I do not think they will provide samples to anyone, but I think this is certainly something you should have, @Orophilia. In essence, this primer is applied to substrates which facilitate the adhesion of silicone mats or like in our case: "loctite si 596 red high temp rtv." Allegedly, this will work on teflon, borosilicate and Nafion membranes, which is what I need. I also need it to work on plastics, and metal substrates. Here is Grok's two cents: Answer Based on the information available online and general understanding of materials science: Teflon (PTFE): Typically, adhesion to Teflon is challenging due to its low surface energy. However, sodium etching can significantly improve the bond strength, and using a primer like PR-1200 RTV Prime could further enhance adhesion by creating a surface that silicone can bond to more effectively. Borosilicate Glass: This material generally has good adhesion properties with silicones, especially when primed. PR-1200 should work well here, as it's designed to enhance adhesion on glass surfaces. Nafion: Nafion membranes, due to their sulfonic acid groups, can theoretically be bonded with silicones if the surface is properly prepared. A primer might help in creating a more adhesive-friendly surface. Plastics: The effectiveness on plastics would vary depending on the type of plastic. Some plastics might require surface roughening or treatment before priming. However, general purpose primers like PR-1200 are formulated to work on a variety of substrates, including some plastics. Metal Substrates: PR-1200 is known to enhance adhesion to metals, which should provide a good bonding surface for silicones like Loctite SI 596. Regarding chemical resistance: Acids and Bases: The PR-1200 primer might offer some level of resistance due to its role in enhancing silicone adhesion, which inherently provides a degree of chemical resistance. However, the longevity and effectiveness against highly reactive chemicals would depend on the specific chemicals involved and their concentration. Silicones like Loctite SI 596 are known for their chemical resistance, but the primer itself might degrade over time if exposed continuously to strong acids or bases. For critical applications, you might want to consider: Testing: Conduct small-scale adhesion and chemical resistance tests to see how well the combination holds up in your specific conditions. Consulting Manufacturer: Reaching out to the manufacturer of PR-1200 for detailed specifications on chemical resistance could provide clarity or suggest alternative solutions if necessary. Alternative Primers: If PR-1200 does not meet your needs for chemical resistance, there might be specialized primers or treatments designed specifically for environments with high chemical exposure. Remember, while primers can significantly improve adhesion, the overall system's performance (primer + adhesive + substrate) should be evaluated under the conditions it will face in actual use. ~ CHEERS
Thank you for one of the real videos on UA-cam. You should carry out the parting, so everybody can see what is truly involved in an Au/Ag assay. I feel you could have a real following, much like Sreetips formula for refining, only yours is assaying.I have yet to see a credible format on UA-cam for assaying. Thanks again.
Exactly oddly enough , good comparison sreetips and Jason .
Thank you sir, excellent work, I continue to learn thanks to people like you. ❤
Just started the video, and I'm excited! After - I was right to be excited! Thank you for being such an awesome teacher!
Thanks for your honest review!
these vids are the perfect complement to MBMM vids
Excellent content. I enjoy the assay procedures demonstration, qual./quan..
a humorous comment:
Strange how the gray dust seems identical to my see-through dust collecting bin on household vacuum. Who knew I was classifying, but then discarding gold my whole adult life?
Great video! Love playing with different fluxes and trying to see what works best. Will try that chapman's mix you used with the NaC and Borax . I have also tried lead vs litharge and came to a similar conclusion.
Great vid. I learned a lot
Jason puts out some amazng content
Your analytics sets you apart from the majority of people doing videos by far, and I for one, really appreciate this. With that said, Pb, PbO, Bi and Bismuth Trioxide, etc..., they all perform at specific temperatures and duration. PbO converted to metal at the temperature and duration best, and with minimal volitazation of the lead. Bismuth trioxide will convert to metal at a much higher temperature, in fact.
Lead oxide reduces to metallic lead in the presence of carbon or carbon monoxide, a process that can happen at temperatures around 800°C to 900°C (1472°F to 1652°F). This is indeed relatively low compared to other metals, which is why lead has been traditionally favored for cupellation. At these temperatures, the reduction happens efficiently with minimal volatilization if controlled properly.
Bismuth trioxide requires significantly higher temperatures for conversion to metallic bismuth compared to lead. The reduction of Bi₂O₃ to Bi metal involves temperatures around 1200°C to 1250°C (2192°F to 2282°F). This higher temperature requirement can indeed complicate the process if not managed well, as it increases the risk of volatilizing not only bismuth but potentially other metals present.
The key is precise control over the temperature and atmosphere in both setups.
So, in your innovative approach, you're essentially playing a thermal chess game, where each move (temperature adjustment) has to be calculated to keep all your metallic pieces in play, ensuring they convert or oxidize at just the right moment. It's this kind of detailed understanding that can refine the ancient art of cupellation into something that's both environmentally friendly and economically savvy. Keep up the great work, and remember, in the world of metallurgy, temperature isn't just hot air-it's everything!
~ CHEERS
Hi Jatslo, As always, a useful and informative comment. Thanks! I can't get my old pottery kiln above 2200 F so I may be stuck with PbO for the time being.
@@orophilia Bi₂O₃ is a bad idea, is what I meant. Bi can be added to the lead to help mitigate the volatility of lead by completing the desired effect at a lower temperature. The PbO experiment either did not fully convert to metal or it was converted and some metal converted to gas, which is how PM's escape. Perhaps adjusting the duration is justified in terms of optimization?
You're doing awesome!
@@Jatslo I can make another run. Do you have a specific recommendation? I take the smelt up to 2100F and hold for 10 minutes.
@@orophilia Using lead oxide (PbO) at temperatures as high as 2100°F for collecting precious metals is extreme; however, it might work, if you can time it right. The reaction where carbon reduces lead oxide to lead can start at temperatures around 800°C to 900°C (1472°F to 1652°F). This is not an instantaneous conversion but rather occurs over a range, with efficiency increasing as the temperature rises. While the initial reduction might be observed within an hour under optimal conditions, achieving a high degree of conversion from PbO to Pb could take 2 to 4 hours or more in a practical setting, considering all the variables involved in industrial processes. For precise durations, experimental or operational data specific to your setup would be necessary.
Understanding the reasons for lead loss in processes like smelting or cupellation can help in fine-tuning the operation for better efficiency and reduced volatilization. For instance, if PbO isn't fully reducing to Pb, it might indicate that the temperature isn't high enough or that the reducing conditions (like the presence of carbon or CO) are insufficient. Increasing the temperature slightly or enhancing the reducing atmosphere could help.
I thought our PbO experiment was pretty close to optimal, so tweaking that initial process is best, IMHO.
When introducing bismuth into smelting operations to collect precious metals, particularly in scenarios where you're looking to reduce lead usage or operate at lower temperatures, the ratio of bismuth to lead can vary based on the specific process goals, the composition of the ore, and the desired outcomes. For example, some smelters might start by replacing up to 30-50% of lead with bismuth. This is a compromise where you still leverage lead's properties for collection but introduce bismuth to lower the overall melting point of the alloy. This mitigates the vaporization of lead. Some literature suggests starting with 25% bismuth as a conservative substitution, gradually increasing it while monitoring the smelting's effectiveness and efficiency.
It was interesting that you used flour. Flour burns off at relatively low temperatures, potentially requiring careful temperature management to ensure sufficient carbon for reduction is available at the right time.
This only suggests that slow, and long burn is best.
~ CHEERS
@@orophilia Is that even possible; maybe with a microwave kiln?
Nice job Dave, i always learn from you when i watch your videos mate.
Nicely done. Thanks for the video.
Interesante y muy didáctico!
Thank for this video. I would suggest to assay it after panning. Also panning and boiling concentrate in 10 ml of sulfuric acid for 30 minutes under reflux and wash in a 50 ml beaker. 1 gr of lead as collector is enough with 10 gr of anhydrous borax. You tell us later, bye.
Hello Jorge. Good advice. I'm planning on trying a number of methods and I'll add this one.
Very good video, thank you for the great information.
Go Jason!
Just a quick comment or two. One, I'm new to your channel and would like to be able to drop by some time in my travels. You have a great channel with a lot of thinking out loud. The second comment is about the possibilities of metal being separated from the button and caught in the flux or chipped off while liberating the button from the slag. I use a Falcon MD-20 detector to do a quick scan. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for the comment. I've found that assays require great care and a lot of experience, and I don't have enough of either. Nonetheless, it's both entertaining and useful.
Great teaching!
You deserve more than one like, truly 👍
Imagine that there is more gold than the lead collector metal, how much gold can lead collect (depending on lead weight)?
Good question. I don't know but I'll try to find out.
This is awesome.
A real science
You are best,very nice🙏🏻🙏🏻👏👏❤❤
Very nice video!
The ore from Jason's mine was deposited in at least two different events. A bunch of course white quartz with iron Pyrotite, and a finer grained quartz with free gold and Tellurobismuthe.
That's really good information, thanks. The dark minerals in this sample don't look like pyrite, so I think they are a mix of Tellurides. If you know how to identify the minerals please let me know.
Or the gold ore could have been deposited in one metamorphic fluid event and the pyrite converted to pyrhotite by higher temperatures bought about by a nearby rising intrusion.
Pyrhotite is somewhat magnetic, pyrite is not. Tellurides are very rare. Compare under a binocular microscope. Im familar with many tellurides. Tellurobismuthe i am not.
There is a really good book on gold metallurgy called "the extractive metallurgy of gold" yanopollus. You need a copy. Good photos and classification of ore types. Get one...
@@orophilia The tellurobismuthite is silvery and much softer and cleaves off into little flexible plates and is associated with the rich gold band that Jason shows in his closeups of the vein. The pyrhotite is harder, more brassy colored and fractures unevenly.
Hello friend! Can you share the list of electronic components and their markings for your gold bump-sluice shaker table? Thank you very much!
Yes, I'll make another video with more information.
I was considering getting some bismuth to try assaying with, but now I'll just stick with the lead!
Thanks!
Yeah, I just can't get it to work.
A little Edvard Grieg music to smelt by. Nice touch.
11:04 you can just your hand instead of tongs the crucibles are not hot yet 😅
Thank you very mutch for this informative video
Going to try out litharge for my ore and see how it works out. I always used bismuth and was disappointed with the results from it and not getting what I believe is possible
If you do a side by side comparison please let me know how it turned out.
@@orophilia will do!
Gave more than a like. SUBBED for quality 😊
Thanks, Klaus!
All good mate, but your average person is only going to pick a few special pieces and then crush the rest and get zero.
It's a commercial ore and most of us cannot extract It's true value.
If you're just a fan then buy a specimen and get it cut, polished and mounted on a nice hardwood base as a little show piece.
Im an Australian prospector and I don't mess with selling online but maybe I should look into it, I have very rare sponge gold nuggets just waiting to be melted down.
Great video.
The gold seems to be spread very finely throughout the ore, so, yes, it's going to be hard for the average person to extract it, including me.
To reemphasize, during smelting or cupelation, the process can get gassy. When you're heating things up to get gold, various gases can be produced, like sulfur dioxide, if there's sulfur in the mix, or even just plain old oxygen. Now, gold, being the noble metal it is, it doesn't usually like to gas off on its own. However, if you're not careful, these gases can whisk away some of your precious gold in the form of volatile compounds or simply by mechanical action, like tiny gold particles getting caught in the gas flow. This is particularly true, if you're dealing with processes that involve chlorine (aqua regia) or other reactive gases which could form volatile gold compounds. So, yes, the potential for losses are there. Really good chemistry is needed to make sure your gold stays where you want it - in your pocket, not in the air!
It's the classic case of "death by a thousand cuts" but with gold flecks! Even if each little puff of gas only takes away a minuscule amount of gold, over time or in large-scale operations, this can add up to a significant loss. It's like if every time you walked through a doorway, a tiny speck of your wallet's contents decided to go on an adventure without you. Might not notice at first, but eventually, you're going to feel that pinch.
In assays, precision is the name of the game. Even a tiny discrepancy can lead to big misunderstandings about the value or purity of the gold. Imagine telling someone they've struck a vein of low-grade gold when actually, due to losses during processing, it's more than thought. That could lead to some very disappointed prospectors or investors.
Hence, meticulous control of the smelting or cupellation process isn't just science; it's an art form where every breath of gas could mean a breath of lost gold. Keeping those losses to a minimum ensures that what you see in the assay is what you get in the bank - or in your treasure chest.
On the contrary chemicals are not likely to carry gold away as gases are produced; it is only when fire is applied that the utmost care should be taken. When we're just mixing chemicals, gold is pretty much the chill aristocrat of the periodic table, not easily swayed to leave the party. It doesn't usually form volatile compounds just by hanging out with other chemicals at room temperature. However, introduce fire into the equation, and things heat up in more ways than one. When you apply high temperatures, like in smelting, that's when you need to be on high alert!
So, when the flames are licking at your crucible, that's when your inner alchemist must become vigilant. It's not the chemicals per se but the inferno's breath that could potentially whisk away your golden dreams. Therefore, controlling the temperature, atmosphere, and even the flow of gases in the furnace becomes paramount to keep your gold where it belongs - in your hand, not in the wind.
~ CHEERS
Thanks, Jatslo. Yes, the dragon's breath has whisked me away on my golden dream. I see the fire all around me now but the eyes of my soul are still clear. A golden rain is falling through the blackness and I rush to collect it before it disappears in a puff. Alas, the gold is gone! There's nothing left but the smell of a dog fart.
تحياتي لك 👍
Where can I buy an angle grinder ore box like yours?
There are companies that make the flail mill. Search for flail mill angle grinder.
I feel like when you poured the molten liquid in the mold you aren't recovering all that is there. The liquid is quite viscous and the overflowed material didn’t have a chance to let the heavies settle... just my opinion, one ive formed from watching jasons videos! Very informative video nevertheless!
Partner with Jason and do a joint video at this mine and or shop.
Can XRF mashine is worng rusalt ? for gold ore please reply 😔😔😞
The XRF instruments have a small spot size, generally 1 cm or less, so it detects elements only in that region and only over a very small depth. For that reason it, due to the nugget effect, it can give highly variable results. So, the ore should be ground very fine, and many readings should be taken over different sample areas.
Для лучшего результата,необходимо деревянным бруском перемешивать сплав перед разливом для хорошего контакта коллектора с Au. Я так думаю)))🤔
"For best results, it is necessary to stir the alloy with a wooden block before pouring for good contact of the collector with Au. I think so)))🤔"
Yes, that might help, but I don't have a way to do that without pulling the crucible out of the oven and then putting it back in. Anybody else think that this helps with recovery?
A wooden block LOL.
I have loads of gold meteorite and I get little viewings you got little gold and tons of viewings. Crazy
Yeah, sorry about that. Good luck.
Yeah i would buy from him if i got to pick the chunks myself and he sells it to me by ton i pick.
That would depend on the price. Cheers, Dave
That's a very little amount of gold for the amount of quartz.i go out to waist rock piles and get foot ball size chunks of quartz been averaging around 2 to 3 ounces foe half the rock.4 to 5 ounces for the hole rock..but the speck count is close to 20 to 30 percent of a lot of the ore is gold
Well, you've got it made in the shade, man. Go for it!
Are there unicorns and rainbows at the 'waist' piles where you get 5 ounces for a 'hole' rock?
Is there any chance i can mail u some sample rocks?
Howdy. I'm really sorry but I'm no longer accepting rocks. Thanks for the offer!
Rocks with near zero gold
Close to one ounce per ton. That's considered very good ore now that the price of gold is high.
Tengo dos años tratando de aprender y no me sale mi prueba minera podras ayudarme
Hola Edgar, ¿Estás intentando analizar el mineral de tu mina de oro? Puedes ponerte en contacto conmigo en
Here is a question for you:
I was able to get a free sample of "PR-1200 RTV PRIME." Allegedly, this primer can be applied to Teflon, in which "LOCTITE® SI 596" can be applied to create a seal. This involves a reactor that I'm building. I originally planned to use hardware, but that is getting expensive. For example, the "M3 Teflon Hex Nuts" are more than $5.00 each.
My question: Do you have any experience with "PR-1200 Prime" and/or "LOCTITE® SI 596" for creating water/gas-tight seals in extreme environments? This reactor employs a Nafion 117 membrane that is primarily a proton exchange membrane that can pass some of the smaller cations like Sodium and possibly Silver. I' am more or less just throwing this out there on the off chance someone knows what I'm talking about.
This is Grok's response:
Grok: "While I don't have personal experience with the specific products in the exact context you're describing, let's discuss the general application of PR-1200 RTV Prime and LOCTITE® SI 596 based on information available up to October 2024:
Products Overview:
DOWSIL™ PR-1200 RTV Prime Coat: This primer is designed to enhance adhesion of silicone adhesives and sealants to various materials, including plastics like Teflon (PTFE), metals, ceramics, and glass. It's a silane-based primer, which is crucial for improving bond strength in applications where materials might not adhere well naturally.
LOCTITE® SI 596: Known for its high-temperature resistance (up to 600°F or 316°C), this is a red, one-part RTV silicone sealant. It's formulated for sealing in extreme conditions, which could include high temperatures, thermal cycling, and exposure to various chemicals. It's used in industrial applications like furnaces, ovens, and exhaust systems.
Application to Your Scenario:
For Nafion 117: Nafion membranes are typically used in environments where chemical resistance and ion exchange are critical, like fuel cells. Nafion itself is highly chemically resistant but might not bond well with many adhesives without surface treatment or a primer.
Creating Seals:
PR-1200 Prime could potentially be used on Teflon parts or directly on Nafion (if compatible) to enhance adhesion for SI 596 or similar silicones.
LOCTITE® SI 596 might then be applied over the primed surface to create a gas-tight seal. Given its properties, it should withstand the thermal and chemical conditions your reactor might be subjected to, assuming compatibility with your specific environment.
Considerations:
Compatibility: While these products are robust, always verify compatibility with your reactor's environment, especially the chemicals involved. Nafion 117's compatibility with sealants needs careful consideration due to its specific use in ion exchange.
Testing: Given the specialized nature of your application, conducting small-scale tests under conditions similar to your operational environment is crucial."
I don't have any info. I hope someone else does.
The "PR-1200 RTV PRIME" sample finally arrived, and they sent two huge bottles; far more than what I needed. I appreciate the free samples, but can only find one video: ua-cam.com/video/8uOiGjPFUsU/v-deo.html. While I'm certain this prime will be useful, I'm not sure it will withstand the various acids and bases I employ.
The samples were a business-to-business interaction, and I do not think they will provide samples to anyone, but I think this is certainly something you should have, @Orophilia. In essence, this primer is applied to substrates which facilitate the adhesion of silicone mats or like in our case: "loctite si 596 red high temp rtv."
Allegedly, this will work on teflon, borosilicate and Nafion membranes, which is what I need. I also need it to work on plastics, and metal substrates.
Here is Grok's two cents:
Answer
Based on the information available online and general understanding of materials science:
Teflon (PTFE): Typically, adhesion to Teflon is challenging due to its low surface energy. However, sodium etching can significantly improve the bond strength, and using a primer like PR-1200 RTV Prime could further enhance adhesion by creating a surface that silicone can bond to more effectively.
Borosilicate Glass: This material generally has good adhesion properties with silicones, especially when primed. PR-1200 should work well here, as it's designed to enhance adhesion on glass surfaces.
Nafion: Nafion membranes, due to their sulfonic acid groups, can theoretically be bonded with silicones if the surface is properly prepared. A primer might help in creating a more adhesive-friendly surface.
Plastics: The effectiveness on plastics would vary depending on the type of plastic. Some plastics might require surface roughening or treatment before priming. However, general purpose primers like PR-1200 are formulated to work on a variety of substrates, including some plastics.
Metal Substrates: PR-1200 is known to enhance adhesion to metals, which should provide a good bonding surface for silicones like Loctite SI 596.
Regarding chemical resistance:
Acids and Bases: The PR-1200 primer might offer some level of resistance due to its role in enhancing silicone adhesion, which inherently provides a degree of chemical resistance. However, the longevity and effectiveness against highly reactive chemicals would depend on the specific chemicals involved and their concentration. Silicones like Loctite SI 596 are known for their chemical resistance, but the primer itself might degrade over time if exposed continuously to strong acids or bases. For critical applications, you might want to consider:
Testing: Conduct small-scale adhesion and chemical resistance tests to see how well the combination holds up in your specific conditions.
Consulting Manufacturer: Reaching out to the manufacturer of PR-1200 for detailed specifications on chemical resistance could provide clarity or suggest alternative solutions if necessary.
Alternative Primers: If PR-1200 does not meet your needs for chemical resistance, there might be specialized primers or treatments designed specifically for environments with high chemical exposure.
Remember, while primers can significantly improve adhesion, the overall system's performance (primer + adhesive + substrate) should be evaluated under the conditions it will face in actual use.
~ CHEERS
Good info, thanks.