Only video that shows the setup from start to finish thank-you and easily explained as usual excellent. A big thanks to Paula from Go Laser Go who directed me to this video. I watch your channel but did not find this one.
Hi from UK - another excellent video - QQ would you suggest to use the advanced tab option to choose 'RAMP OUTER EDGE' or are there other option (OFFSET FILL) to strengthen the rubber image from distorting when pressed. thanks again Geoff
Thank you for an another awesome video. Video quality is amazing. I am struggling with stamps cause a customer wants small and fine detail. I will try your settings and tips to see if I can make it better. I have a Nova 24. Thanks
thanks for the comments, yes fine detail is not easy on a stamp. look up adding a ramp to your stamp design. this will build shoulders for thin designs. if it’s too thin it just not reliable. this is where the customer will need to be a little flexible . email me at computercrestions@charter.net if you need some help
Hello, I have a Nova 51-100. I have been approached to make acrylic stamps for clay. Pour engraving. I normally start at 7 mm. However, what do you think I should start with because the engravings are going to go much deeper than a rubber stamp? Help with any settings would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
it depends on how intricate the engraving is.. if it’s not too intricate keep the 7mm increase your power. you may have to more than one pass depending on depth. also play with your Lpi and lower it as much as you can get away with. this will greatly reduce you engrave time.
I recently did this after watching this video. Same laser and everything! It turned out well, but i had a lot more... flames when engraving? Should i be concerned?
Thank you for another great video! Just a quick question: Didn't you purchase a Lightburn camera? Why didn't you use it to engrave the wooden block? I just noticed that, after you bought and demo'ed the camera, we don't see you using it much. I just ordered one and hope I didn't make a mistake!
I didn’t want to take 15 minutes to calibrate the camera. Because the lid is constantly moving the camera will have to be calibrated if alignment is critical.. Useing the user origin is much quicker. I don’t use the camera but for very unusual shapes. thanks for watching and the comment
Thank you for making all this helpful videos for us! And "yes" video quality is definitely noticeable! I like people who is stepping up their game.....nice!!!!
I noted that you did not remove the red and blue layers output, how did you stop the engraver from engraving these areas as when I have left my output on it also engraves those areas
In your laser tab do you have a use selected graphic radio button. If turn it on then you have to select what goes to the laser. Also turn on use selected origin below it. Works great I can have all kinds of design and only send what I want to the laser!
I personally never use the wide nozzle, it was included in the kit before they had the dual air assist. Allot of people use it for acrylic but honestly you just turn down your air flow with the little needle valve below the right hand green light.
sorry for the late reply, I missed this comment. anytime your engraving anything you should have no flame. slightly increases your airflow that will do the trick, just adjust the little needle valve below the right hand green light. assuming your air assist of off when engraving. you shouldn’t get any melting at all I would double check your settings. if you need some further assistance I do one on ones training.
Only video that shows the setup from start to finish thank-you and easily explained as usual excellent. A big thanks to Paula from Go Laser Go who directed me to this video. I watch your channel but did not find this one.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi from UK - another excellent video - QQ would you suggest to use the advanced tab option to choose 'RAMP OUTER EDGE' or are there other option (OFFSET FILL) to strengthen the rubber image from distorting when pressed. thanks again Geoff
ramp outer edge works the best but can be finicky.
Was your setting in mm or inches? Thank you great video!
Since it’s a co2 laser I use mm per second
Thank you for an another awesome video. Video quality is amazing. I am struggling with stamps cause a customer wants small and fine detail. I will try your settings and tips to see if I can make it better. I have a Nova 24. Thanks
thanks for the comments, yes fine detail is not easy on a stamp. look up adding a ramp to your stamp design. this will build shoulders for thin designs. if it’s too thin it just not reliable. this is where the customer will need to be a little flexible . email me at computercrestions@charter.net if you need some help
I noticed that you engraved the wood without air? If I do that my nozzle get really dirty quick! Why doesn't you use air?
there is a slight amount of air always, but as little as possible.. lots of air when engraving just contaminates your work!
@@computercreationz so just to keep the lens clean?
Yes@@tegheim
Hello, I have a Nova 51-100. I have been approached to make acrylic stamps for clay. Pour engraving. I normally start at 7 mm. However, what do you think I should start with because the engravings are going to go much deeper than a rubber stamp? Help with any settings would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
it depends on how intricate the engraving is.. if it’s not too intricate keep the 7mm increase your power. you may have to more than one pass depending on depth. also play with your Lpi and lower it as much as you can get away with. this will greatly reduce you engrave time.
I recently did this after watching this video. Same laser and everything! It turned out well, but i had a lot more... flames when engraving? Should i be concerned?
Increase your air flow is all
How far down would we adjust the settings for the Bolt? I’m assuming 2 passes would be sufficient as you mentioned.
2 passes min 3-4 seems about perfect depending on design
Which laser machine is this?
Thunder laser 35-100 watt
Thank you for another great video! Just a quick question: Didn't you purchase a Lightburn camera? Why didn't you use it to engrave the wooden block? I just noticed that, after you bought and demo'ed the camera, we don't see you using it much. I just ordered one and hope I didn't make a mistake!
I didn’t want to take 15 minutes to calibrate the camera. Because the lid is constantly moving the camera will have to be calibrated if alignment is critical.. Useing the user origin is much quicker. I don’t use the camera but for very unusual shapes. thanks for watching and the comment
Thank you for the efforts in explaining important concept and working of laser turning on/off on same color lines. Very helpful :)
your welcome
Hello sir can I do rubber stamps with desktop laser machine have power 10 watt??!
since I don’t own a diode laser I’m sorry I can’t answer your question!
You might also want to use the RAMP settings to create a stronger, durable stamp.
Thanks for the suggestion!
You mentioned a while back that you were going to do sublimination videos. Are you still thinking about doing that?
I released this one a month ago ua-cam.com/video/lo-npeLn4Jw/v-deo.html
Thank you for making all this helpful videos for us! And "yes" video quality is definitely noticeable! I like people who is stepping up their game.....nice!!!!
Thank you for watching and commenting on the quality of the video. I appreciate it
I see a WV sticker on the front of your machine where you from ?
Nevada
Thank you very much . May I pls request a tutorial on company seals , how to design the male and female pieces .
I’m not sure what you mean by male and female pieces
@@computercreationz Hello , Sorry n Thank u . I mean the bottom n top part of the design , when placed in between a piece of paper tht wld b visible .
I noted that you did not remove the red and blue layers output, how did you stop the engraver from engraving these areas as when I have left my output on it also engraves those areas
Any tips as only have a diode laser 5.5W ORTUR MASTER2
In your laser tab do you have a use selected graphic radio button. If turn it on then you have to select what goes to the laser. Also turn on use selected origin below it. Works great I can have all kinds of design and only send what I want to the laser!
Do you use the wide nozzle for engraving and the small one for cutting?
I personally never use the wide nozzle, it was included in the kit before they had the dual air assist. Allot of people use it for acrylic but honestly you just turn down your air flow with the little needle valve below the right hand green light.
@@computercreationz We hadn't either until husband hooked up air compressor (thanks to your videos).
Do you a link for just the rubber sheet
I don’t just look for laser safe laser stamp material
Love this video. I tried today on my 35/80 and failed it had a lot of flame and melted not sure what to do next
sorry for the late reply, I missed this comment. anytime your engraving anything you should have no flame. slightly increases your airflow that will do the trick, just adjust the little needle valve below the right hand green light. assuming your air assist of off when engraving. you shouldn’t get any melting at all I would double check your settings.
if you need some further assistance I do one on ones training.
@@computercreationz thank you it worked a treat.
You do great!
Thank you!
Great video have you ever done any delrin stamps for leather embossing ?
I haven’t found anything on engraving these
No I have not. I’m curious on how it would engrave?
Trotec Laser USA has a video on their channel that covers that subject.
@@matchstickdesignco Thanks
Hudson and I enjoyed your video!
Awesome, thanks for the comment! Hi Hudson
Do you think this would work with a diode laser?
I’m not sure I don’t own a diode laser. sorry
You will need to alter the settings but yes it does,
thank you ❤
You're welcome 😊
Nice work really
Thank you so much 😀