People confuse pragmatism with being cheap; in the US plumbers generally just throw new parts at any failing equipment until operation is restored. Little to no effort goes into understanding the system and actually repairing anything. I'm replacing one of these for peace of mind but wanted to dissect and if possible preserve the old one as a backup- thanks for doing this!
Thank you very much for your valuable tip, whereby the Pressure Relief Valve may be made to function again by "snapping" the operating lever. I found it necessary to "snap" it at least 20 times before the valve again sealed shut, so people should be prepared to persevere. This was for boiler type Vailiant ECOtec Pro Combi. We had two visits from the maintenance contractor. They knew perfectly well what was causing the problem, but both times just adjusted the pressure and rushed out of the front door before the system crashed again. Now we have gained our independence from people who couldn't care less.
sebastian, thanks, this looks like the only goddamn video that shows innards of those valves and you even discussing different types of closing caps on them. Didnt even know you can completely disassemble those parts. Thanks !
Really did help me with my problem of a leaky PRV and only £12 to replace if needed but a twist and a clean did the job and no waiting for the £199 gloworm van man to arrive late. A warm home is a good palce to be, Thankyou...
Cheers for this! I knew pretty much nothing about PRV's before this video. I've been trying to fix a fairly quick pressure drop on my system today (it was going from 1.6 bar to 0.7 in 10 minutes). After trying various things I was resigned to us having a leak under a floor somewhere, but then checked the PRV pipe outside and it was dripping, 2 drips a second. Gave the PRV several hard taps with my wrench and a lot of corrosion fell off, but the dripping outside stopped! Hope that's fixed it for now until we can get a new valve fitted.
Thank you, Sebastian! I followed your advice and my PRV works now without dripping. Not to mention that mine is a different type (for VISION 28 SE) but your instructions applied perfectly🙂
Super vid - I have an old "Red Top" valve with 12mm input, that I couldn't find a replacement for. Tried your squeeze it with grippers and boom, cleaned it up and now all is good. Thanks for posting this!
Very clear - I feel confident to give it a go. Altho on my Worcester Bosch (1997) the copper pipe to exterior is a big brass nut, but the supply side is what looks like a push fit into plastic with a circlip type retainer.
this was a great video, very informative, and most appreciated. Was about to attempt to replace my own but I'm now going to give it a clean first instead. Thanks for putting the time in and ignore any negative comments!
Thanks for this one Sebastian; almost out of patience with our boiler, but I think you've just provided a nice quick fix. Using your video alone I was able to drain ours, take the cap off, clean it out, and refill everything in my lunch break. You're a star :)
Thank you very much for this information which was successful on my boiler , I have the older twist type valve and did as you suggested twisting by hand in an anti-clockwise direction. The only thing I would add is to keep the filling loop up to operating bar pressure between twists which seems to flush the valve through and obviously just dumps the water outside , cheers 👍
Two mysteries in life - Tax affairs and CH Systems. I will certainly repair mine if clicking didn't work on my 9yr old Main Eco30. Very clear vid. Thank you.
Thanks for excellent video. Freezing weekend with no pressure in the system, still waiting for boiler maintenance guy to get back to me......cleaned thé PRV and all is looking good and the heat is feeling good. Will still have the maintenance guy do a service but no rush now. Thanks.
Have a bit of an emergency, cant afford a plumber. I stay in a 2nd storey flat, I had a leak from my PRV (actually from the bottom of it the water was gushing out) and I stumbled upon your video when trying to find an option for removing and resealing it (the PRV looked to me like it was slightly off kilter, like maybe even slightly cross threaded and I just wanted to try re-seating it to see if that fixed the leak - IT DID. So now there's no leak into my house, which is nice, in order to work on it I obviously had to turn the stopcock. Which unfortunately means the person above me on the 3rd floor doesnt get water either. Anyway, I reseated the PRV, and the leak into the property has stopped, but when we turn the water back on the overflow shoots out, a good 3 to 4 feet, I'm thinking that this is either the PRV or the expansion vessel needs reset. (maybe both) As I say, I REALLY cant afford a plumber, I'm moving out the property in a few months (long story) and im loathed to spend big whads of cash on something I wont be here to use and cant spare. I'm thinking I follow your video, remove the PRV completely, clean it, put it back on... and see if the gushing of water from the overflow continues... I DONT want to do this, IF its not the PRV now... as the leak has stopped... Any Ideas? The boiler is Sabre Vokera, not 100% sure on the model number atm, but if i need to buy a new PRV I will find it.
Best video/explanation on how these valves work,...wish I could find one on the Baxi 105e diverter valve, the rear section of it, I think mine isn't closing properly, bath tap water isn't that hot, it's sending some of it to the rads even when the central heating is off.
Great video. I have a slightly different one and can see the drip coming from it and tried tightening the screw on it think I need to take it off and try cleaning it like you did. Thanks
Can someone tell me what an f26.9 check is and how to carry it out with an analyser also what to do if you find an issue what numbers to look for causes potential issues where and what to recheck after putting case back on and how to electrically check and isolate before carrying out works ?
I've been cleaning crud from one of these for years. Now I think it's time for a new washer. But where can you get one and what's it called? My immediate thought was "top hat washer", but that's something else. You called it that too. If anything deserves to be called "top hat" it's these. Any ideas? (NB. anyone thinking if adding a ring washer - don't. If you make the affair thicker you'll increase the operating pressure - very dangerous!)
@james beattie A new what? £15 is a lot for a washer, but they're unobtainable anyway. I've been to the manufacturer (Caleffi). Or do you mean a whole new inlet combination valve for £15? That I'd like to see!
@@lewistaylor0991 Alas, no. It's very specific (and it is a Top Hat washer). I spent a long time trying and they're just not available as a spare part. The "solution" is to replace the whole inlet set (regulations, see?) and apart from the hassle, the part is £40-£60 depending on the cylinder it's certified with. It would be naughty you can get a lesser part containing the same washer and swap the washer, so I'm sure no one does that ;-)
@ebut That's about right for just the PRV. When they're part of a combination unit then you're looking at a lot more than £15 - and the regulations about unvented cylinders seem to mean you have to use the exact same replacement, at least to the person signing it off. And then there are all the compression joints - when all it really needs is a new washer :-(
All you have said is relevant and true however quite a lot of the ones I've taken out the seats are pitted and as I'm getting paid for a job ONCE I do not want to be playing tennis with a boiler because I didn't bother to fit the correct part also the part is a safety device and should not be plucked about and finally if it did jam and an accident (it wouldn't be an accident)happened as a professional gas engineer your trousers would be round your ankles RIDOR
All well and good showing these but it is in fact illegal to work on a gas/oil boiler without be qualified . So no customer can do this no matter how good they think they are. Also the reason these valves open is usually due to the expansion vessel losing its charge. Whilst you can clean these I have found they will fail again shortly after. Simply recharge the vessel and replace the PRV they cost nothing
Hi sebastian, Mine reach the 3 bar pressure and the follwing day toping up straight it happen 2 days ago now i was checking the expansion vessel it was okey and this is my last thing to check it was freezing outside and i couldnt see the pipe do you think PRV got burst already? dont you think if reaches more than 3 bar will burst this PRV? could you let me know please...
Alan Millar yes. Your absolutely right, but it's difficult to make a good video of trying to extricate the bloody thing from the back of the boiler with two fingers and long nose pliers!
Sebastian Hibbert thank you so much. You explained very clearly with the valve and the diagram. I just fixed my pressure relief valve with your help. May fortune favour you with much goodness and grace
It's illegal to work on a boiler without being gas safe registered. It doesn't matter if you are working on hydraulic parts. If it's a hot water cylinder that's unvented you need a ticket for that as well.
James Jospeh Nicoll incorrect. The regulations draw a distinction between doing gas work for nothing and doing it in return for payment (of any kind - not just money). If you are receiving payment you MUST be Gas Safe Registered, or the penalty can be a prison sentence. If you are NOT being rewarded in any way (e.g. DIY for yourself) then you need only be what the regulation describes as 'competent'. That actually only applies to the gas sideanyway
donwingchun our industry is riddled with cowboys. I was at a boiler today where a tenant had tried to repair a flue he had damaged with silicone. This was done a week ago he was complaining of headaches.
James Jospeh Nicoll there will always be horror stories, but for the competent DIY person there's nothing legally stopping them working on their own boiler. I could make the same comparison to working on your own car. some people will repair the brakes dangerously, some will have the car fall on them from not properly raising it. You're clearly in the industry and anti DIY but for the competent amongst us we don't want to pay extortionate plumbing costs.
what you have to do is close the water supply to the tank then let it empty through the pressure relief valve. If its like mine its spring loaded and it should close itself then you turn the water back on. That's how i ended up doing it anyway it was a nightmare before i realized though!
The main pet hate of mine is the worcester prv location on the Ri's. Right at the back, take the hyraulic assembly out 2 change - NIGHTMARE.. Baffles me y they put it there, dont know any other boiler that makes it soo difficult to replace. Usually grub screw at front and a 5/10 min job. Moan over...
I find this quite irresponsible It’s one thing to teach someone how to ping the 3 bar & clean the seat but it’s not used to drain the boiler & some boilers can be damaged if they are not filled/purged correctly before firing (main eco top AAV sticks runs boiler without bleeding guess what happens or Vaillant flue overheat stat blows can’t be changed £450 for a new heat exchanger If they don’t know what there doing your encouraging people to adjust a SAFETY device that is very important Secondly there are reasons these blow Usually expansion vessel or heat plate mixing or filling loop failure or thermal expansion causing blow off for safety What if these new clever enlightened confident viewers decide to add sealant glue to help it seal or that they can put a bigger 3 bar in or another or cap the outlet to stop that pesky 3 bar leaking (I have seen this) I’m all for helping people but do not explain how to manipulate an important safety device that is not the reason it’s leaking..fuses blow for a reason these valves blow for a reason & unless they just overfilled it once cleaning this valve is not the solution & unless your clear on the causes being eliminated your wasting peoples time cleaning it because it’s doing it’s job.. Does your next video involve adding foil to fuses to make them stronger or capping chimneys to reduce that annoying smoke
People confuse pragmatism with being cheap; in the US plumbers generally just throw new parts at any failing equipment until operation is restored. Little to no effort goes into understanding the system and actually repairing anything. I'm replacing one of these for peace of mind but wanted to dissect and if possible preserve the old one as a backup- thanks for doing this!
I bow to the simplicity of your wisdom and now marvel at my pressure dial that has not moved from 1.2 bar for some days now. tyvm
Thank you very much for your valuable tip, whereby the Pressure Relief Valve may be made to function again by "snapping" the operating lever. I found it necessary to "snap" it at least 20 times before the valve again sealed shut, so people should be prepared to persevere.
This was for boiler type Vailiant ECOtec Pro Combi. We had two visits from the maintenance contractor. They knew perfectly well what was causing the problem, but both times just adjusted the pressure and rushed out of the front door before the system crashed again. Now we have gained our independence from people who couldn't care less.
sebastian, thanks, this looks like the only goddamn video that shows innards of those valves and you even discussing different types of closing caps on them. Didnt even know you can completely disassemble those parts. Thanks !
Really did help me with my problem of a leaky PRV and only £12 to replace if needed but a twist and a clean did the job and no waiting for the £199 gloworm van man to arrive late. A warm home is a good palce to be, Thankyou...
Cheers for this! I knew pretty much nothing about PRV's before this video. I've been trying to fix a fairly quick pressure drop on my system today (it was going from 1.6 bar to 0.7 in 10 minutes). After trying various things I was resigned to us having a leak under a floor somewhere, but then checked the PRV pipe outside and it was dripping, 2 drips a second. Gave the PRV several hard taps with my wrench and a lot of corrosion fell off, but the dripping outside stopped! Hope that's fixed it for now until we can get a new valve fitted.
Thank you, Sebastian! I followed your advice and my PRV works now without dripping. Not to mention that mine is a different type (for VISION 28 SE) but your instructions applied perfectly🙂
This is a fantastic video. Very clear and educational. This has saved me a world of pain this afternoon. Thank you so much.
Super vid - I have an old "Red Top" valve with 12mm input, that I couldn't find a replacement for. Tried your squeeze it with grippers and boom, cleaned it up and now all is good. Thanks for posting this!
Very clear - I feel confident to give it a go. Altho on my Worcester Bosch (1997) the copper pipe to exterior is a big brass nut, but the supply side is what looks like a push fit into plastic with a circlip type retainer.
Thanks man just fixed mine through your it has been leaking for sometime.You have saved me of some bucks for buying a new one as some recommend 👍👍👍👌
thanks Sebastian, great video. I was thinking I had to replace the complete valve, you just saved me a bit of cash and quite a bit of time and anxiety
this was a great video, very informative, and most appreciated. Was about to attempt to replace my own but I'm now going to give it a clean first instead. Thanks for putting the time in and ignore any negative comments!
Fantastic video. Clear and simple instructions. Did the trick Cleaned mine out and now it no longer loses pressure. Thank you
Thanks did this today on my Gloworm 30cxi, worked a treat.
Thanks for this one Sebastian; almost out of patience with our boiler, but I think you've just provided a nice quick fix.
Using your video alone I was able to drain ours, take the cap off, clean it out, and refill everything in my lunch break.
You're a star :)
Thank you very much for this information which was successful on my boiler , I have the older twist type valve and did as you suggested twisting by hand in an anti-clockwise direction. The only thing I would add is to keep the filling loop up to operating bar pressure between twists which seems to flush the valve through and obviously just dumps the water outside , cheers 👍
Great big thank you man. I couldn't have imagined that this part can go bad. It DID in my case. Your clear guidance was a BIG help!
Two mysteries in life - Tax affairs and CH Systems.
I will certainly repair mine if clicking didn't work on my 9yr old Main Eco30.
Very clear vid. Thank you.
Thank you for clear information. Saved me a lot of time and money. Have a good day sir!
Thank you so much for showing me how to fix this problem saved my self a lot of money .Milo
Really informative. Thank you for this
This worked for me thanks, saved a packet. This is really only as difficult as changing a spark plug if not easier
Brilliant stuff, thanks for a fantastic video demonstration 👏🏽👏🏽
This was monumentally helpful and clearly explained. Thanks!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Awesome video, perfect explanation. And the flicking trick at end...so awesome, worked a treat!!!
Thanks Sebastian. Very helpful indeed.
Thanks for excellent video. Freezing weekend with no pressure in the system, still waiting for boiler maintenance guy to get back to me......cleaned thé PRV and all is looking good and the heat is feeling good. Will still have the maintenance guy do a service but no rush now. Thanks.
I Have no words to say thank you very much, you did help me a lot, and save me hell lot of £££. Thank you once again God bless you.
FABULOUS.Explained so well
Perfectly explained cheers mate!
Good man,just the info I was looking for , clicking the valve also allows water to flow to remove any crud on the seat..
Excellent video. Absolutely brilliantly easy to follow and comprehensive!
Great, you saved me a plumber attending !
Fine video, clear and simple. Thank you
Many thanks, simple but great to see before attempting it. Ta!
Also if PRV is passing it could possibly be expansion vessel needs recharging too.
Thank you for the tip! Fixed my problem right away.
Excellent tutorial.
Hi Sebastian, thanks for making this amazing video, can you also make a video on how to open this prv from the boiler thanks
Have a bit of an emergency, cant afford a plumber. I stay in a 2nd storey flat, I had a leak from my PRV (actually from the bottom of it the water was gushing out) and I stumbled upon your video when trying to find an option for removing and resealing it (the PRV looked to me like it was slightly off kilter, like maybe even slightly cross threaded and I just wanted to try re-seating it to see if that fixed the leak - IT DID. So now there's no leak into my house, which is nice, in order to work on it I obviously had to turn the stopcock. Which unfortunately means the person above me on the 3rd floor doesnt get water either.
Anyway, I reseated the PRV, and the leak into the property has stopped, but when we turn the water back on the overflow shoots out, a good 3 to 4 feet, I'm thinking that this is either the PRV or the expansion vessel needs reset. (maybe both)
As I say, I REALLY cant afford a plumber, I'm moving out the property in a few months (long story) and im loathed to spend big whads of cash on something I wont be here to use and cant spare.
I'm thinking I follow your video, remove the PRV completely, clean it, put it back on... and see if the gushing of water from the overflow continues...
I DONT want to do this, IF its not the PRV now... as the leak has stopped... Any Ideas?
The boiler is Sabre Vokera, not 100% sure on the model number atm, but if i need to buy a new PRV I will find it.
+Graham Skillin BEST VIDEO, SAVED ME A FORTUNE, thankyou sebastian!!! UA-cam PLUMBERS UNITE
Thanks Sebastien - really useful.
So helpful, so well explained, Thank you !
Best video/explanation on how these valves work,...wish I could find one on the Baxi 105e diverter valve, the rear section of it, I think mine isn't closing properly, bath tap water isn't that hot, it's sending some of it to the rads even when the central heating is off.
Excellent clear information .
Thank you . A lot !
Great video. I have a slightly different one and can see the drip coming from it and tried tightening the screw on it think I need to take it off and try cleaning it like you did. Thanks
Detailed step by step ;; thanks alot !
Big help, thank you!
Thank you very much you save me some money
wow i actually fixed something! thanks man!
Can someone tell me what an f26.9 check is and how to carry it out with an analyser also what to do if you find an issue what numbers to look for causes potential issues where and what to recheck after putting case back on and how to electrically check and isolate before carrying out works ?
Would this be the same for Main eco 30 Combi ?? Great vid anyway👍👍
Brilliant info
excellent
grt job
saved money
Flicking it WORKED!! But I flicked off the red lever... can I get it back on without dismantling the heat exchanger?
Do you have Any idea about GlowWorm Betacom 24c , PRV?
I just opened one and seems spring gone, is it possible?
Thanks in advance
Thank you really helpful.
thank very good welwell pal l explained
I've been cleaning crud from one of these for years. Now I think it's time for a new washer. But where can you get one and what's it called? My immediate thought was "top hat washer", but that's something else. You called it that too. If anything deserves to be called "top hat" it's these.
Any ideas?
(NB. anyone thinking if adding a ring washer - don't. If you make the affair thicker you'll increase the operating pressure - very dangerous!)
Fibre washer?
@james beattie A new what? £15 is a lot for a washer, but they're unobtainable anyway. I've been to the manufacturer (Caleffi). Or do you mean a whole new inlet combination valve for £15? That I'd like to see!
@@lewistaylor0991 Alas, no. It's very specific (and it is a Top Hat washer). I spent a long time trying and they're just not available as a spare part. The "solution" is to replace the whole inlet set (regulations, see?) and apart from the hassle, the part is £40-£60 depending on the cylinder it's certified with. It would be naughty you can get a lesser part containing the same washer and swap the washer, so I'm sure no one does that ;-)
@ebut That's about right for just the PRV. When they're part of a combination unit then you're looking at a lot more than £15 - and the regulations about unvented cylinders seem to mean you have to use the exact same replacement, at least to the person signing it off. And then there are all the compression joints - when all it really needs is a new washer :-(
Super ...what a star ......
They are £14 to replace. Why would you service them?
But how do you get it off boiler ?
thank you , a great help 5*
Would‘be been great if you had the other PRV for viewers to see. My PRV is not the one you used to explain.
All you have said is relevant and true however quite a lot of the ones I've taken out the seats are pitted and as I'm getting paid for a job ONCE I do not want to be playing tennis with a boiler because I didn't bother to fit the correct part also the part is a safety device and should not be plucked about and finally if it did jam and an accident (it wouldn't be an accident)happened as a professional gas engineer your trousers would be round your ankles RIDOR
All well and good showing these but it is in fact illegal to work on a gas/oil boiler without be qualified . So no customer can do this no matter how good they think they are. Also the reason these valves open is usually due to the expansion vessel losing its charge. Whilst you can clean these I have found they will fail again shortly after. Simply recharge the vessel and replace the PRV they cost nothing
Hi sebastian,
Mine reach the 3 bar pressure and the follwing day toping up straight it happen 2 days ago now i was checking the expansion vessel it was okey and this is my last thing to check it was freezing outside and i couldnt see the pipe do you think PRV got burst already? dont you think if reaches more than 3 bar will burst this PRV? could you let me know please...
there 8 quid why would you go to all that trouble...bin it fit new
looks easy but getting it out is the big problem!
Alan Millar yes. Your absolutely right, but it's difficult to make a good video of trying to extricate the bloody thing from the back of the boiler with two fingers and long nose pliers!
Sebastian Hibbert thank you so much. You explained very clearly with the valve and the diagram. I just fixed my pressure relief valve with your help. May fortune favour you with much goodness and grace
It's illegal to work on a boiler without being gas safe registered. It doesn't matter if you are working on hydraulic parts. If it's a hot water cylinder that's unvented you need a ticket for that as well.
James Jospeh Nicoll you can sometimes work on the hydraulic side legally - also these are not always in a boiler
James Jospeh Nicoll incorrect. The regulations draw a distinction between doing gas work for nothing and doing it in return for payment (of any kind - not just money). If you are receiving payment you MUST be Gas Safe Registered, or the penalty can be a prison sentence. If you are NOT being rewarded in any way (e.g. DIY for yourself) then you need only be what the regulation describes as 'competent'. That actually only applies to the gas sideanyway
donwingchun our industry is riddled with cowboys. I was at a boiler today where a tenant had tried to repair a flue he had damaged with silicone. This was done a week ago he was complaining of headaches.
James Jospeh Nicoll Christ. Dangerous! RIDDOR?
James Jospeh Nicoll there will always be horror stories, but for the competent DIY person there's nothing legally stopping them working on their own boiler. I could make the same comparison to working on your own car. some people will repair the brakes dangerously, some will have the car fall on them from not properly raising it. You're clearly in the industry and anti DIY but for the competent amongst us we don't want to pay extortionate plumbing costs.
Great video, but with it being a pig of a job to get at i would rather change it for new and not take any chances....penny wise...pound foolish
I accidentally turned mine and I cant turn it back what do i do?
0249er Same , nightmare can't close it.
what you have to do is close the water supply to the tank then let it empty through the pressure relief valve. If its like mine its spring loaded and it should close itself then you turn the water back on. That's how i ended up doing it anyway it was a nightmare before i realized though!
The main pet hate of mine is the worcester prv location on the Ri's. Right at the back, take the hyraulic assembly out 2 change - NIGHTMARE.. Baffles me y they put it there, dont know any other boiler that makes it soo difficult to replace. Usually grub screw at front and a 5/10 min job. Moan over...
I find this quite irresponsible
It’s one thing to teach someone how to ping the 3 bar & clean the seat but it’s not used to drain the boiler & some boilers can be damaged if they are not filled/purged correctly before firing (main eco top AAV sticks runs boiler without bleeding guess what happens or Vaillant flue overheat stat blows can’t be changed £450 for a new heat exchanger
If they don’t know what there doing your encouraging people to adjust a SAFETY device that is very important
Secondly there are reasons these blow
Usually expansion vessel or heat plate mixing or filling loop failure or thermal expansion causing blow off for safety
What if these new clever enlightened confident viewers decide to add sealant glue to help it seal or that they can put a bigger 3 bar in or another or cap the outlet to stop that pesky 3 bar leaking (I have seen this)
I’m all for helping people but do not explain how to manipulate an important safety device that is not the reason it’s leaking..fuses blow for a reason these valves blow for a reason & unless they just overfilled it once cleaning this valve is not the solution & unless your clear on the causes being eliminated your wasting peoples time cleaning it because it’s doing it’s job..
Does your next video involve adding foil to fuses to make them stronger or capping chimneys to reduce that annoying smoke
h
First view
Good call. Love the picture on your profile btw
Sebastian Hibbert thanks for the tutorial