Mazdaspeed 3 - VVT & Timing Chain Replacement
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- Опубліковано 1 кві 2017
- In this video we take on the infamous VVT job on the MZR 2.3 disi engine in the Mazdaspeed 3. Although we had done the job in the past, we forgot to SET CHAIN TENSION, so we did the job again to make sure we are ready to turn up the boost with the new big turbo. Enjoy the video! Please like, share, and subscribe :)
Tips:
- Set the engine at TDC before removing timing components, to avoid piston to valve interference.
- Remove timing tools when loosening and tightening components, to prevent damage to timing tools, cams and block.
- When locking the cams, make sure the intake and exhaust cam lobes for cylinder 1 are facing each other at a 45 degree angle (this indicates TDC).
- Replace the crank pulley bolt as it it a stretch bolt (replacing the cam sprocket bolts is also recommended).
- Replace all friction washers, including the ones for the cam sprockets to ensure engine stays in time.
Since we already had the JBR 88A rear motor mount installed, we went ahead and installed the JBR 80A passenger, and 88A transmission motor mounts when putting it back together.
Crank Pulley Counter-hold Tool Part # LRT-12-093 (this is an old Land Rover special tool that worked perfectly for us, but any other spanner of similar size with holes approximately 3 inches apart should work.
Instagram - @wannabe_tuners
Merch - teespring.com/stores/wannabet...
Mods in this video:
1. Snow Performance Stage 1 WMI Kit
2. Cobb Accessport V2 (self tuned)
3. Bfg G-force Comp 2 All Seasons
4. Jbr Oil Catch Can (vta setup)
5. Ngk One Step Colder Plugs
6. Cpe Top Mount Intercooler
7. Jbr 88a Rear Motor Mount
8. Jbr 88a Trans Motor Mount
9. Jbr 80a Pass Motor Mount
10. Autotech HPFP Internals
11. Eibach Lowering Springs
12. Cnt Catted Downpipe
13. Koni Yellow Shocks
14. Volk TE37 Replicas
15. Raceland E-Cutout
16. Cobb 3 Port Ebcs
17. Resonator Delete
18. Htp Full 3" Intake
19. Bnr S4 V2 Turbo
20. Forge Bpv V1 - Авто та транспорт
Im in the middle of nowhere...I have a slowly dying flashlight, a hammer, 2 wedges, and a spoon....im now going to replace the timing chain in the VVT...best part....in gonna try and video what happens. Comedy gold is born.
Great vid with even better commentary! You actually have way more personality than most vids or TV shows. My timing cover is leaking something fierce and I need to do something about it; along with replace my rack since that leaks as well. I didn't think it would be difficult, but after watching this, way more steps than I thought, but still very simple. I sub'd because someday I'll have to replace my chain and since I'm too cheap to pay someone I'll just do it myself.
This video is flippin great boys. Couple laughs here and there really helped keep my attention. Watched every single second start to finish.
Thanks a lot brother! That means a lot to us!
Great video guys. I used it as a visual aid during my VVT ACTUATOR replacement job along with the factory manual. I also enjoyed the commentary as well as the back and forth banter. I'm a new subscriber.
Alex Lechner Thanks! I'm glad we could be of help☺
I know this is 6 years late but where did you find the manual? I need to replace timing and would like to have this reference when I do need to.
Doing this job next week will be using this as a step by step for mine good info helps alot
Just finished this job and wanted to be the 157th person to thanks for doing this awesome community service! Coupled with the manual everything went perfect.
Thanks man! Happy to hear it went smoothly for ya
Thank you so much for this video ! I just finished my timming chain and my speed3 sounds like new ! This was very helpful !
That's great to hear!
Loved this video I’m about to tackle that job on my own with you guys playing in the background for some company while I screw up the job somehow someway 😂
how’d it go ?
That is a hell of a job. Very detailed. Thank you.
Thanks a lot :)
You guys are incredible. This is hugely helpful for me being an idiot and thinking about tackling this soon
Thanks! We're glad you find it useful :) Let us know if you have any questions when you start
Good video for those wanting a step by step i would however not bother rotating the freespining sprockets as you are effectively wearing the friction washer away, the tensioner will remove all slack anyway. Also fitting the balancer along with crank bolt will help you rotate back to tdc instead of possibly damaging crank end with multigrip pliers
nice vid guys! up here in thunder bay rebuilding a speed6 and hoping to build my speed3 in a couple years
Thanks! That should be awesome:)
Got my S4 V2 install after watching your videos. The spool sound is so addicting
I know man it's insane, and it drives so much smoother.
Amazing demonstration guys please please I beg you to keep bringing more of these videos , I subscribed btw.
Alexis Thanks eh!
It’s really useful what you guys have done
Glad to help out;)
Exellent video guys was a big help thanx heaps..my engine runs like a champ now and no more timing chain rattle 👌
Beautiful
really helpful im going to try this job tomorrow
How did you get on with this job mate?Any issues?
Interested in how it went
Just did this on a bottom end swap on focus st. I noticed after the fact that i never loosened the vcts. Is that a big deal. I have the engine in time but im wondering if i f'd up the vcts by not loosening them from cams before i removed the cams
What song starts playing at 7:07? Great video. My vct has finally begun to rattle on cold starts and I'm due for timing adjustment as well.
great video 👍
Excellent guys !!!! good video
Timing adjustment with TDC at 37:54
Thanks bro.....i just couldnt stand watching this whole video
What else could I use to get the crankpully out? I'm having trouble trying to make make it the tool or find it online. Does anyone have any suggestions ?
How hard is it to change a timing chain on a Mazda 3 2006 sedan 1 thru 10 ?
I just changed the chain and I did put everything on time the can and crank, cylinder one on top.
Awesome and very detailed video!
How is it possible to get uneven tension on the chain? Just wondering so I don’t make the same mistake
This is very helpful thanks guys!
Happy to help;)
This video is my savior
Seems like a good time to do this will be when i want to install aftermarket cams anyway. How necessary would you say the oil pump chain replacement is? Does that chain stretch as bad as the timing chain?
Tbh I don't think the chain stretches. It's just the worn out VVT causing excessive slack. And yeah! Why do the job twice right!
Excellent video
Excellent video, thanks this job seems a little less intimidating now.
I'm having a hell of a time finding the SST for holding the pulleys in place, the Y shaped spanner thing. Any ideas? I got it apart without it but now I'm getting her back together.
We used a Land Rover spanner tool, we posted the part number and measurements of it on our instagram page :)
exelente... gracias...desde vzla,,,
Where did y’all get the crank tool from?
Thankyou for this video, just to be certain, this is all identical and relevent to the 2005 MPS 6? (mazdaspeed 6) , Im about to attack this one and most of the kits i find dont seem to have friction washers for the cam sprockets, or the crank bolt, also can you link me to where you got the tdc and cam alignment tools? Thanks!
Edgeautosport sells the Timing chain replacement kit, as well as the 'Massive Speed System' Timing tool kit. The replacement kit does not come with an exhaust cam bolt or friction washer, as the procedure does not require you to loosen the exhaust cam. The only problem with not loosening the exhaust cam, is that evening out chain tension as depicted in the video is near impossible. I would highly recommend ordering the exhaust cam bolt and friction washer for this reason. Here's the link for the Timing chain replacement kit which gives you the option to select whether you want to add the 'Massive Speed System' timing tool kit :) edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem-vvt-replacement-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/
Using a grinder tool for the oil pump was really cool!
Working with what we have ;)
nice work guys
Thank you :)
great, video man, I going to change timing chain , got all I need except friction washers. How many friction washer are there ?
There are three on the crank and one for each cam sprocket
So how did you hold the crankshaft pulley when you were tightening and torquing the crank bolt?
For the initial torqueing we used a bolt that threads through the crank pulley and into the timing cover. Then for the additional 90 degrees we removed that small bolt to prevent potential damage to the timing cover, and used a counter hold tool (part number LRT-12-093) with two nuts and bolts. This is not a Mazda specialty tool and any spanner of similar design will do the job. Please note that during the final 90 degrees, all timing tools need to be removed. This included the cam locking plate, TDC pin, and crank pulley centering bolt to prevent damage :)
I just bought a new vvt gear for my mazda 3 and I noticed if I hold the cam and twist the gear with out a chain on it and the gear being bolt to the cam there seems to be some play in the gear not very much but it's there. Is this normal?
The VVT actuator has oil chambers inside it to advance valve timing, so the outer gear on the VVT can rotate slightly independently of the intake camshaft.
damn thanks for this video!
just recently had the rod bearings replace
but no i hear a tickking sound ,speciallly when i accelerate.i believe its the lifters now..
if i take out the crank shafter to replace the lifters heads covers,
would have to re time the car?? timing chain>??
Yes the engine will then need to be re-timed
My idler pulley bolt was stripped/rounded before i even got to it. I'm assuming that it is a standard counter-clockwise to loosen it, correct? I dont want to be tightening it. And how would you recommend getting the bolt out at this point?
You could try a large vice grip plier, and yes it is loosened counter clockwise :)
Hey guys, I'm using your video as a guide, I'm almost done with the job but my paranoia is getting the better of me. I just did the final tightening of the crank bolt, and after rotating the engine a couple times, everything is in time. However at certain points the engine is a bit harder to manually turn over (I kept my spark plugs installed) and if I stop turning the crank at those points the resistance will make the crank turn back slightly counterclockwise. It's at these resistance points that the chain has a little more slack than at TDC, especially when the crank turns a bit counterclockwise. Is this normal or does it sounds like my tension is off?
If all the timing tools line back up after rotating the engine over 720 degrees, than you should be good
The resistance you feel is from the compression inside the cylinders on the compression stroke
@@WannabeTuners awesome, thanks so much for confirming.
When fitting the vvt on the camshaft does the position matter coz l didn't see you time it ?
Thanks
mashmallow The position does not matter from what I've read. Although it's good practice to mentally note the general position of the old one while at TDC, to install the new one in a similar position :)
that hole on the crank pulley basically times the crank pulley for you with the crank sensor no need to count the teeth on crank pulley.
I have a speed 3 2012.. im getting a rattle noise in the morning and then sometimes while im driving... 145.000 miles can it be the vvt actuator? Is completely stock.. aside from an kn drop in filter... Somedays it drives perfectly.. but then sometimes it doesn't drive bad but it doesnt give me full power when i step on it.. I don't feel the boost coming in strong....
It could be the vvt actuator. Are you getting a check engine light? Or any fault codes?
hey good job guys,,,, you guy for hire lol
Hey man I’m trying to replace my timing chain on my mps 6 , do you mind write a list of all the washers I will need please
Here is a link to where I bought my parts:edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem-vvt-replacement-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/
I would recommend buying an additional friction washer for the exhaust sprocket as well:) The camshaft bolts can be reused but I replaced mine anyways. They also sell the timing tools. Hope that helps!
When reusing the VVT sprocket. Does it have to be in the locked or unlocked position? It was recently replaced on this motor.
The VVT sprocket should already be in the locked position naturally when installing it. If it isn't, it is worn out and should be replaced
@@WannabeTuners Ok great, Thank you for your reply.
@@stevengrappy8664 You're welcome :)
Is vvti sprocket orientation critical?
When locking the timing in place.should the locating pin on vvt gear face up.or can it also show downwards.to the bottom
Good question. It actually doesn't matter which orientation the locking pin on the VVT actuator is in while set at TDC.
How do you lock the crankshaft and what tool did you use to lock the cams. I’m trying this job on my mustang ecoboost
We purchased timing tools specific to this engine. If the ecoboost 2.3 liter doesn't use keyways, I'm sure the process will be nearly identical. You'd just have to find out where to buy the timing tools specific to your engine
IF I get like 2 seconds of rattle up top when starting the engine am i in need of an vvt cam ?
I would say yes. That's the early signs of a worn out vvt actuator.
Hello guys! Great video, in the video at 12:16 you placed a note saying that the first time you did the job you forgot to lock the craneo and that it made it difficult to rotate the crank to TDC by hand due to valves interfering with the pistons,how did you fix that? I think the same happened to me I also broke the exhaust camshaft because I left the trimming tool lock for the cams while I removed the crank pulley, so I am trying to find out what can I do to put it back at TDC to continue and remove the cams? Thank you so much for your help and your videos!
The harder option would be to remove the camshafts which ensure all valves are closed as you rotate the crankshaft to TDC. Then you can re-install the cams into the correct position. The other easier option is to try and rotate the crankshaft so that the all the pistons are roughly halfway down the cylinders, adjust the cams into position, then adjust the crank. That's why it's a good idea to set the engine at TDC prior to taking the timing components apart, because otherwise the cams and crank can be totally out of sink causing potential piston to valve contact when rotating the crankshaft to the TDC position.
@@WannabeTuners than you so much guys I did the second option and it worked! So thank you so much for your videos and all the help and information !
@@mikeup91 Your very welcome! Glad it worked out :)
whats weirding me out is how does the crank with no key way or any other way to lock those crank sprockets on in one position not just slip thru the sprockets and go out of time? is it only the crank pulley tensions that is locking everything on the bottom together? trippy
There is no keyway on the crankshaft or the cams, the only thing that prevents everything from slipping out of time are the friction washers and tightening those bolts down to the correct torque spec. It is a very unique design that was probably intended to cut production costs. A lot of people rebuilding their engines with forged internals will get the crankshaft and sprockets keyed just in case, however the friction washer setup has been shown to handle quite a lot of power (from what I've read people have made up to 500 hp without a keyed crank). Imo if your rebuilding and forging the engine, it's better to get the crank keyed as there are no downsides to doing so :)
Great job guys! Would you mind if I put a link to this video into my timing series video? I'd love for people to have a resource for timing chain tension. Thanks!
Yeah for sure! Thanks man:)
Wannabe Tuners Thank you!
My belt popped off on my 2.3 l Ford escape. I thought it was the belt tensioner. It turned out my crank bolt came loose .So I went to time it with valve cover off and cam shim tool. When I went to go rotate crank to TDC , I could only turn it so far before it hit something. Timing cover is on. So I tried putting the locking bolt in and it didn't even thread ,like it was hitting the counter balance. As I turned the crank bolt ,it only turns 3/4 turn then halts . But as I hold the locking bolt tool in the hole ,not threaded and touching metal ,It does not even feel like the crank is moving. Any Ideas would be appreciated.
snowblind5151 Maybe the cams need to be rotated slightly. We had an issue where we didn't set it to TDC before removing the chain. Then when we rotated the crank to find TDC, the pistons would contact the valves.
I have my timing cover still on and chain still on .I thought I could just set the timing, but it looks like I have to take that chain off .Maybe it jumped some teeth .I was going to take the oil pan off first ,or should I take the timing cover off?
I had already set the timing top and bottom , when I hand cranked it , there were no obstructions . When I tried starting it the bolt came loose again and then I developed this obstruction when I went to reset the cams. Then the crank didn't fully turn WHEN I tried setting that. The motor only turned like twice brfore the crank bolt came loose . With my cams set tdc I still cant crank all the way. its hitting , I tried different positions with my cams to rotate that crank. It wont turn all the way when cams are TDC or anywhere. Gotta be a ROD
Hey, I had mine worked one (friend did it), but its leaking oil from the side.. how hard is it to reseal it?
Do i need to just seal the side or redue the whole timing thing again?
If it's leaking from the timing cover you'll have to take the valve cover off, set the cams and crank to TDC, take the timing cover back off, and re-seal it.
How did you guys get the crankshaft seal out
Did you have to use a seal puller
MrGov666 We just pryed it out slowly with a screw driver and lightly hammered the new one in. I'm sure there's a special tool for it, but it's not necessary. As long as it sits flush with the timing cover and doesn't leak :) just make sure the circular spring that runs along the inside doesn't fall out or it will for sure leak as there won't be any more tension.
Just wondering about the orientation of the 2 cam gears when putting on the chain? Like does it not matter since its not keyed so the cams and crank locked are timed but the gears spin free until locked with the friction locker? Or is there an orientation to the gears when at tdc?
The orientation of the cam sprockets does not matter, so long as the cams themselves are in the correct positions using the timing tools. Since there aren't any keyways, the goal is to even out the chain tension as much as possible before tightening the sprockets. The friction washers keep the cams and crankshaft in time with eachother.
@@WannabeTuners makes perfect sense. Thank you so much for the reply. Starting today wish me luck haha.
@@chrisdutcher9565 Good luck brother!
Why would you replace the vvt spocket? Something get worn out after some Time ?
They are bad from factory on the mazda 2.3 MZR disi turbo. Mazda had a recall period to correct the the issue with a revised vvt actuator free of charge, but it is no longer covered and most people don't really look for recall info on their cars so there are a lot of these motors out there that still need the updated part.
yah man good vid
Janet Bostock If u have any questions let us know:)
How many miles does this car currently have on it? Looking at buying a Mazda speed 3 that literally is like new and has 120k miles recently boosted to 19 psi high pressure fuel pump and currently going through a tune. How many miles does your car currently have?
It currently has about 146,000 kms (91,000 miles) on it :)
I'm having trouble with the HPFP, I think. Timing chain and everything has been replaced and the rattle is gone. Engine will start but I need to keep playing with the gas pedal or the engine dies. What could be the issue?
I would double check all electrical connections. Are there any stored fault codes?
I have an 07 CX 7 that keeps throwing a P0012 code. Do you think that could be the VVT failing and in need of replacement?
Absolutely and likely :)
Try using thicker viscosity oil... That can resolve that code at times
@@WannabeTuners my ms3 doesn't have any codes. However, when i start the car i can hear the timing chain rattle for a quarter of a second. Is that normal? Or is something wrong?
@@Carlos-wj3nu Hey man that brief rattle at startup is the timing chain hitting the valve cover and is an indication of a worn VVT actuator. I had the same issue with mine. I would definitely carry out this repair and replace the VVT actuator, timing chain, tensioner, guides, friction washers, and crank bolt. Edgeautosport sells a kit.
@@WannabeTuners Thanks for the reply and for the advice. Do you know the consequences of not taking care of it right away?
Hey man, I was wondering what brand timing chain kit you bought, also an update on goes she's doing?
Hey man I ordered the timing chain kit from edgeautosport.com and there is an option to have them include the timing tools such as the crank shaft pin and cam locking plate. I think the brand name is 'Massive' timing tools. I would also recommend buying an additional camshaft bolt and friction washer for the exhaust cam in order to even out the chain tension when putting it back together. Also might as well replace the oil pump tensioner and guide since your in there. Hope that helps:)
Edit* It's called 'Massive Speed System' timing tool kit for the mazdaspeed 3/6
As for the car, it's running great! No issues whatsoever and is still in the tuning process. I'm hoping to settle at around 350whp/wtq when all is said and done for longevity
Thank you Wannabe tunners for your awsome video. Couldnt have done this job without you guys. One question, i wiped down all sprockets and contact surfaces with brake cleaner before sliding on the new friction washers, i also wiped down the friction washers themselves with brake cleaner before sliding them on. Do you think i could have caused any harm to the friction washers by doing that cause they are a diamond dust washer?
Thanks man! As long as there isn't actual debris on the friction washer surface, you should be ok. Spraying some brake/parts cleaner on them and allowing it to evaporate won't cause any harm in my opinion, but I do think it's better to just leave them dry, and avoid touching the surface with your fingers
41:13 Why wont rotate the crankshaft when final torquing the pulley bolt up without the timming plug holding the crankshalf? I mean, without the timming plug in the crankshalf... the crankshalft migh rotate 🙄 Or... it wont because the pulley is already pressing the crackshalf enough and it wont rotate when tighing if you hold the pulley with the wrench?
At 28:00 does it matter which way that Sprocket is put in? Or both sides are the same ?
Both sides are not the same for the crankshaft timing sprocket. The side with more lip faces out, away from the engine. The crank sprocket for the oil pump is the same on both sides and can be installed either way :)
Why does timing chain have one mark that there is no timing chain and gears have a mark like as GM old block that has timing chain mark and gear with a dot mark? i am so confused
The engine uses friction washers only to keep the camshafts and crankshaft timed together. They need to be in the correct positions prior to tightening them down
Good video a forged drop in build would be awesome
Thanks man! Who knows what the future holds. I plan on keeping this car for a long time. They're so fun:)
What is the right orientation for the vvt sprocket .
What harm can it do if not in right position
Thank you
There is no specific orientation for the VVT actuator that I am aware of because oil encapsulates it evenly
What tool did you guys use to counterhold the oil pump sprocket? I can't find anything...
We used an angle grinder wrench. Luckily the one we had was a perfect fit. A screwdriver can also be used by sticking it through one of the holes on the oil pump sprocket and counterholding it against the pump itself.
@@WannabeTuners Ok, i was considering using a screwdriver but was quite wary of it. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks, i love that youre still replying to comments on this vid.
@@pleasedontkermitcrime3968 I've got the UA-cam app on my phone so it's quite convenient lol. In terms of losening, using a screw driver with an impact gun makes it easy. But when tightening, it'll be beneficial to have someone else hold the screw driver when tightening it down with a ratchet. It's best to tighten this bolt to torque spec imo, but by hand has worked for us :)
Amazing video guys. Doing this today.. how long does it take for the high pressure fuel line to go down in pressure? No shrader valve so that makes me a little nervous. I'm trying to take the head off and redo valve seals and replace the head gasket. Do you guys have a video on that?
Thanks man! The pressure in the fuel rail will be pretty high after engine shutdown. You can relieve the pressure by just cracking the high pressure fuel line loose at the high pressure fuel pump. The fuel spray will not be substantial but safety glasses should be used. Unfortunately we have never removed the head on this engine, but if and when we do, we will definitely make a video ;)
@@WannabeTuners thanks guys! Another question for ya- do you think the turbo will have to completely be removed to get the head off? Or will taking out the manifold bolts do?
@@craigzilla100 No the turbo and manifold have to be completely removed imo. There are too many coolant and oil lines as well as a support bracket for the turbo. Even with all that removed, I don't think the exhaust piping will allow for the manifold to be pushed back far enough off the exhaust studs on the head
@@WannabeTuners good to know. I appreciate it guys. Your channel is valued!
@@craigzilla100 Thanks man we're happy it helps the community
How many friction washer do I need on for each the Camshaft & Crankshaft when doing this job?
The crankshaft has a total of 3 friction washers, and the camshaft sprockets each have 1 friction washer
Where can I find the friction washers to get them
Did you put the plate back Into the cam after you tightened up the cam bolts?
We snugged the intake and exhaust cam bolts with the plate installed while counterholding each cam to ensure both cams are synched to eachother. Then, for the final tightening we removed the plate and tightened while also counter holding. Once the crank pulley is torqued at TDC, we rotated the engine over 720 degrees and verified that all timing tools fit back in place. Any other questions let us know :)
I did the same to a mazda engine only I put some oil on the cam sprockets bolt threads to ease with the torque!! was this a good idea no?
Tbh I wouldn't have because I've heard that this can mess with torque readings, but if the engine hasn't had any issues then it should be fine :)
@@WannabeTuners thanks guys hopefully it won’t have issues
Did I miss the part where you initially put the cam holding tool in? In the video you said something about having the cam lobes face eachother at a 45 degree angle
Yep you'll notice that when the camshaft locking plate is installed, if the cams are in the correct orientation, the cam lobes on the intake and exhaust cams will be facing each other at 45 degrees on cylinder 1
Does the VVT actuator have to be in a certain position on the cam? How would you ensure a new actuator is turned to the correct position?
The position of the VVT actuator doesn't matter, as oil fully encapsulates it no matter what position it's installed in ;)
31:33 but didn't you say the vvt act. had to be oriented with the cap pointing upwards? Others say to just put it back same way old one came out, and mine had the aligned slots on the inside pointing straight up.
@@modeljetjuggernaut4864 The position of the stopper pin on the VVT actuator doesn't actually matter. Oil will enter it no matter which position it's in.
Anyone know where I can get the t8 inverted socket? I can’t seem find one when I google it and a link would be appreciated
Search inverted torx socket 3/8. They usually come in a set.
Great step-by-step video guys! Couple of questions though... Did you prime the fuel system prior to starting the engine and if so, how was that done? Also, did the orientation of the VVT actuator as how it was installed really not matter? OEM manual specifies to install exactly as how the original was removed. Thanks.
Hey thanks man! We primed the fuel system by turning the key to the on position a few times, although it may stutter at start up because there is still air on the high pressure side of the fuel system. This is normal. The orientation of the VVT does not matter. I too have read up on this, and it seems that the only reason it is recommended to have the orientation the same is when you are only changing the VVT out, and not loosening the exhaust cam. Many have not installed it in the same orientation and are problem free! Either way, we made a mark on the old VVT, and transferred it over to the new one just in case.
Hi WT,
Oh, cool, I'll prime it a few times before cranking the engine.
I discovered another procedure from the Mazda Forum (www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f33/how-vvt-140986/) and noticed that they too installed the VVT actuator in the same position as you did which leads me to believe it's probably ok, but as you mention it does not matter. I wondered if the holes (4) in the actuator aligned with those on the end of the camshaft facing out radially (not the ones pointing out horizontally), but they don't appear to be based on how the original VVT was installed from the factory.
Another question though as I am at the point to run the crankshaft bolt the additional 90° after having torqued it to 75 ft-lbf. I'd say I've gotten it to ~45° judging where it is now, but it's getting to the point where it is getting harder to turn the breaker bar and mind you that I am using my leg against the bar sitting on the ground. I was thinking of using a sledge and hit the breaker bar just right to mimic an impact gun or drill method. Would you mind giving some tips in how you got yours to turn to the 90° point?
One other comment or suggestion: I was able to take the fuel pump off without disconnecting it from the housing which covers the outer lobe of the intake camshaft. This way you don't need to bother with the spring which I believe goes to the piston where the lobe contacts and only have to replace L3K9-10-193 and not the o-ring (unless it leaked at this juncture and was needed to be replaced also).
Thanks!
Jeff
Hey sorry for the late response, hopefully it all went well:) For the 90 degree's, I just used my body weight with a breaker bar and turned it in small increments. Not all at once. This is definitely the hardest part of the job because a lot of force is required to turn it the additional 90 degree's. For the fuel pump removal, that sounds like a good idea, that way you're not fighting the spring on the fuel pump piston.
Hi,
No worries, eventually I figured I needed to change two things in getting the extra 45°. First, I realized that the pulley rotated slightly based on how the pulley holder was positioned. Rotated it 180° where it appeared to be having a better grip resting towards the front of the chassis rather than the rear. Secondly, the breaker bar didn't quite provide the leverage needed since it wasn't a long one. I ended up cranking my torque wrench all the way up which then provided the leverage needed since it was much longer than the BB. Again, used my legs seated on the ground and stepped down on the torque wrench and got there incrementally.
So, the car started upon cranking it once! Kinda sputtered for a little bit as you mentioned, but no more rattling noise or ticking heard. The scanner codes P0011 and P0016 were still there after I took it for a test drive and since they were permanent I wasn't able to clear them. Scanner guide explanation is that only the car can erase them which happened sometime the next day. One rookie mistake was not to replace the clamp on a coolant hose that runs on the bottom of the fuel pump. Needless to say, coolant started leaking after the engine got up to temperature, but after replacing the clamp, problem was fixed.
Honestly speaking, I don't think I would have been able to do this job without your help. I am glad I found your video which assisted me quite a bit to get the car fixed. The timing chain wasn't stretched that much, but the VVT actuator definitely needed to be replaced since the round part popped out and is now somewhere in the oil pan. Aside from being short a few tools and getting parts at a decent price (online at Cox Mazda located in Bradenton, FL) this job was well worth the effort in getting it done by myself instead of spending $$ at the dealer. I think now I'll have a few rum and Cokes to celebrate:)
I hope I can call upon you guys in the future with any future mechanical jobs on my Mazda.
Thanks again!
JN
Hahaha thanks man, I'm happy it all worked out for you:D
I went with your video and did the job myself for the first time. I am bout to start now hope it starts otherwise city bus. Sweet video though
Omg weirdos on these busses lol. I checked and rechecked timing was tits everytime tensionwas good and i get everything back on with coulple pulleys andbolts left over. I start it and immediately hear either chain slapping valve cover or the vvt sprocket was getting actuated by some rtv that i got all over instslling cover. Chain tension seems really tight so no way that it was slapping any cover. I am going to take hpfp off again to install trusty cam locker. Tool and set timing again. Will update with results.
@@evergreenpnw2532update?
Does anyone know why you have to remove the cam plate when torquing down the VVT actuator and exhaust cam gear?
It's just to prevent damaging the camshafts and or cam locking plate in the event that the camshafts are not being properly counterheld
Gotcha, thanks for the detailed video!
When yall had to do this a second time was the slight slack from the chain causing a constant noise?
The only reason we did the job a second time was to ensure that we evened out the chain tension. It was more for peace of mind. It had no issues otherwise.
@@WannabeTuners ok thank you.
Is it possible to remove camshafts without remove timing chain cover? I need to replace valve stem seals for my Mazda.
No I don't believe it is possible. There is no room to remove the chain or the cam sprockets without removing the timing cover
@@WannabeTuners I have done it! :) I have not removed timing chain cover or pulleys. I removed camshafts together with pulleys (my engine without VVT) . It was not easy to put everything back, but its possible. :) Thank you for this video. It was very helpful to understand this engine construction. :)
@@modemas9112 Thanks eh! Glad to hear :)
@@modemas9112 the bolts hit the cover if you try to pull them out. And the tensioner will pull the sprockets down I don't see how it's possible. I just replaced a head on mine I can't see how you kept the sprockets in place
No it's not possible
I'm new to Mazdas so I don't mean to sound dumb, but should I replace the VVT when I replace my timing chain?
If the job has never been done before, or you don't know the history on the car, I would replace it :)
thank you
Hey guys. I'm currently putting an Mazda 3 engine back together. The first guy who was working on it was replacing a head gasket. Unfortunately he passed away before he could finish there job, so I kinda stepped in. Anyway, the reason I bring that up is because I'm at the cams now and I don't know where he had the lobes when he disassembled the engine. I have the Chilton for the car, but the instructions keep mentioning to take note of where the lobes were before disassembly. Is there a way I can work around this? I have the TDC tools.
I would try and gently rotate the cams until the intake and exhaust cam lobes on cylinder 1 are facing eachother at a 45 degree angle, then install the cam locking plate. Then slowly rotate the crankshaft until cylinder 1 gets close to TDC. Install the TDC pin and continue rotating until the counter weight contacts the pin. If you feel resistance, theres a good chance one of the pistons are contacting an open valve, so the cams may need to be rotated. Always rotate slow to ensure no piston or valve damage when rotating either the cams or the crank. When doing the final torque on the crank pulley, ensure that the crankshaft is still making contact with the TDC pin by using a vise grip to attempt and rotate the crankshaft closewise again. If it doesn't rotate and is still pushed up against the TDC pin, you're good to go :)
@@WannabeTuners Thank you so much. I got it at TDC. I was real worried there for a second. But this was extremely helpful. Much appreciated.
Was there a need to remove the exhaust cam sprocket as there was nothing wrong with it?
It's not necessary, but it allows for us to rotate the timing drive assembly to even out the tension on the chain
Hey bud, do you happen to know (or able to get) the dimensions of the head of that crank pulley locking tool that you used? I'm planning on machining my own, but don't know the specs. I'd appreciate it. Thanks man!
The spacing between the holes on the counter hold tool is 3 inches. We have a picture of it on our Instagram @wannabetuners :)
@@WannabeTuners Thanks man! I'm getting ready to do this job and thought I'd save a few bucks and machine my own tool.
Looking forward to your guys' next video! I'm curious to see where you take the build.
@@keonigaillard7804 For sure man! If you've got the ability to make your own then why not! We're super excited as well. It should be really fun with the engine being able to handle a lot more torque ;)
In the event that we change the head gasket and we must remove the camshafts what we do not lose the timing of the engine?
set the timing with the cam and crank tool . remove the chain , then head with cam tool in place and you will be ok
Thanks!!!
No problem even if you remove the cam tool to change the cams the tool only fits one way so you can't get the cam timing wrong.
where did you get your cam shaft tool and TDC bolt?
Edgeautosport.com
what year is that cause my 04 Mazda 6 doesn't have those washers and I'm trying to figure out if it should
It's a 2009, what engine do u have?
2.3 L
Yes I'm pretty sure the 2.3/2.0L NA engines also use the friction washers for the cam sprockets and crank sprocket. I'm not sure if the timing tools are the same between all three engines.
Hey, man. Would be the similar job for 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback?
Yes it's the same concept with the friction washers, although the timing tools may be different:)
Great video. But I’m just curious why you had to take off the fuel pump and the intake…
Fuel pump to put the timing tool in, and no need to remove the intake
how to I check if its gone? mines not rattling but after a 30 minute drive in witch there should be plenty of oil pressure I opened my oil cap and it still has plenty of slack PLEASE HELP
Even if you don't hear rattling but there is excessive slack in the chain, it's best not to risk it, and go ahead with this job. Just stating what I would do;)
if some oil is to touch the new friction washer would i have to buy a new one completely or would i be okay cleaning it as well as mating surface and use it ?
No need to buy a new one, just use a brake / parts cleaner to spray it off. We're mainly concerned about large pieces of debris in order to ensure a nice flat grippy mating surface ;)
Thank you another thing if I can’t find anything to hold the crank pulley in place to tq the crank bolt the extra 90 degrees what would you suggest?
@@tucansam3417 That's a good question. I'm not sure. Tightening the additional 90 degrees without a counter hold may cause damage to the TDC pin or threads in the block. Ideally you'd want to remove the TDC pin and that small bolt that centers the pulley before going the additional 90 degrees. I think it's best to find something to counterhold that pulley.
Hello sir where did you buy a stretch bolt?? I cant find anywhere.
You can find everything on edgeautosport.com
What did you use to make that tool to hold the crank pulley?
We used a generic spanner and threaded in some nuts and bolts. I'm pretty sure they can be rented from certain auto stores. Check this thread out: www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/looks-like-autozone-now-can-rent-crank-213751/
Hey man this is exactly what we used (Part # LRT-12-093), but any sturdy spanner with holes that are 3 inches apart should work. We have close up pictures of it on our instagram page :)
after watching this I'm going to pay the repair shop to do mine $600
Yeah man 600 bucks sounds like a good deal! It's really a lot of work
🤣🤣🤣 was just thinking the same thing. Although mine just needs vvt replaced. Timing chain and the lot was replaced already
@@brandonvandiemen144 What codes or symptoms did you experience that drew you to the conclusion that just your vvt needed replacing?
Hahaha crappy madaz engine
@@hreimer13 It typically throws a P0012