Appreciate your Vids. Starts after Magneto rework, "Is That good?" "That's Damned good, Real Good!" Planning to make offer on Decent looking, but not running M dozer close to me. Your videos have really helped me understand what I might be getting in to. Thanks.
Thats a great lesson on converting the coil! I've bought parts magnetos that have had modifactions for going that route! Will be a nice crawler when you get it done! I'm working on trying to get the steering clutches unstuck on my M, I had it for about 3 years. It sat in my buddy's museum for 20. It worked when I first got it. The right works again, I have videos on my channel of it! Getting ready to buy an Allis K crawler next month from same friend, and then looking at a possible Allis forklift project. Keep up the great work!!!
Its fun watching you get it going! Im also getting a M crawler going right now and also using av gas lol. I also had to go thru the ignition and reset the points and clean it all up. I was lucky mine ended up working after all that. We also got very lucky we didnt bend a rod ect when we first tried starting it the cylinders had alot of water in them from the oil bath air cleaner being filled. After all that and having a couple other goofs along the way I got it going and it starts right up and purs. Crazy for a engine made around 1938!! Currently cleaning the cooling system out, got the radiator, water pump, ect all apart. It looks like you dont have a glass fuel strainer? If not you can get them at tractor supply for 40 bucks. Anyways hope yall are staying warm n safe, look foward to seeing more videos! Also if youre not already on the allis chalmers forum, check it out.
@@FarmerClay Thanks for the offer really appreciate it. Might take ya up on it but so far the main thing it needs is new track chain bushing and pins. Also probably new steering clutch rings n pads. I have a post up about some of my progress on the allis forum in constuction under (allis "m" radiator rebuild)
It's complicated, but to make a long story short, the steering clutches were frozen from 30 years of sitting. Pulled off the final drives but couldn't pull the clutch hub off the shaft, even with lots of heat and a 50 ton puller. It is possible to replace the clutch discs without pulling the hub. I got new clutch discs from General Gear in Boise and put them on. They are not OEM so I think they are slightly thicker, so that when the bolts are tightened on the pressure plate, the springs are so compressed that there is no give left in the thrust plate when the steering lever is pulled back. I don't know if you remember how much the thrust plate stuck out when you had the transmission cover off. It would be the plate the bearings other steering fork ride on when the steering lever is pulled back. I have a service manual but it doesn't have a whole lot of detail.
@@lekinwyo822 there is another lever adjustment under the transmission cover plate. That’s where my issue was in the right stick of the steering clutches. I have my 39 apart still and will go take a look at it
@@FarmerClay Yes, I tried making that adjustment on the underside of the transmission cover. Puĺling the lever back needs to push the thrust plate in enough to be able to compress the springs enough to allow the discs to slip which in turn disengages the track when the lever is pulled back . Even with max adjustment, the thrust plate isn't moving enough. I plan on calling the folks at General Gear when I get home and start working on the M again. Folks say they are very knowledgeable. I also need a brake band and they have several Ms for parts.
in the exhaust manifold, there is a steel tube that carries the gas/air mixture up to the intake manifold warming this air mixture as it goes up. This tube can deteriorate over time. Did you check this?
Appreciate your Vids. Starts after Magneto rework, "Is That good?" "That's Damned good, Real Good!"
Planning to make offer on Decent looking, but not running M dozer close to me. Your videos have really helped me understand what I might be getting in to. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback. They are fun to work on.
Thats a great lesson on converting the coil! I've bought parts magnetos that have had modifactions for going that route! Will be a nice crawler when you get it done! I'm working on trying to get the steering clutches unstuck on my M, I had it for about 3 years. It sat in my buddy's museum for 20. It worked when I first got it. The right works again, I have videos on my channel of it! Getting ready to buy an Allis K crawler next month from same friend, and then looking at a possible Allis forklift project. Keep up the great work!!!
There is a wash procedure for the clutches in the M manual. Thankfully mine were not stuck just misadjusted. and broken brake pedals.
Its fun watching you get it going! Im also getting a M crawler going right now and also using av gas lol. I also had to go thru the ignition and reset the points and clean it all up. I was lucky mine ended up working after all that. We also got very lucky we didnt bend a rod ect when we first tried starting it the cylinders had alot of water in them from the oil bath air cleaner being filled. After all that and having a couple other goofs along the way I got it going and it starts right up and purs. Crazy for a engine made around 1938!! Currently cleaning the cooling system out, got the radiator, water pump, ect all apart. It looks like you dont have a glass fuel strainer? If not you can get them at tractor supply for 40 bucks. Anyways hope yall are staying warm n safe, look foward to seeing more videos! Also if youre not already on the allis chalmers forum, check it out.
I have a 39 I’m using for parts if you need anything.
@@FarmerClay Thanks for the offer really appreciate it. Might take ya up on it but so far the main thing it needs is new track chain bushing and pins. Also probably new steering clutch rings n pads. I have a post up about some of my progress on the allis forum in constuction under (allis "m" radiator rebuild)
Good to see your back working on the M. I have a 1939 WM here in Wyoming. It runs great but I am struggling to fix the steering clutches.
Let me know if you have any questions. I’m not an expert, but I have stared at them for quite a while.
It's complicated, but to make a long story short, the steering clutches were frozen from 30 years of sitting. Pulled off the final drives but couldn't pull the clutch hub off the shaft, even with lots of heat and a 50 ton puller. It is possible to replace the clutch discs without pulling the hub. I got new clutch discs from General Gear in Boise and put them on. They are not OEM so I think they are slightly thicker, so that when the bolts are tightened on the pressure plate, the springs are so compressed that there is no give left in the thrust plate when the steering lever is pulled back. I don't know if you remember how much the thrust plate stuck out when you had the transmission cover off. It would be the plate the bearings other steering fork ride on when the steering lever is pulled back. I have a service manual but it doesn't have a whole lot of detail.
@@lekinwyo822 there is another lever adjustment under the transmission cover plate. That’s where my issue was in the right stick of the steering clutches. I have my 39 apart still and will go take a look at it
@@FarmerClay
Yes, I tried making that adjustment on the underside of the transmission cover. Puĺling the lever back needs to push the thrust plate in enough to be able to compress the springs enough to allow the discs to slip which in turn disengages the track when the lever is pulled back . Even with max adjustment, the thrust plate isn't moving enough. I plan on calling the folks at General Gear when I get home and start working on the M again. Folks say they are very knowledgeable. I also need a brake band and they have several Ms for parts.
in the exhaust manifold, there is a steel tube that carries the gas/air mixture up to the intake manifold warming this air mixture as it goes up. This tube can deteriorate over time. Did you check this?
Yes I did. I actually replaced that tube in this exhaust manifold.
Intake/exhaust manifold has a thin tube for the intake, heated by the exhaust, they rot out... Made this way to run on distillate
I made a new one and pressed it in. It was rotten pretty bad.
Grease the clutch throwout collar every time you use the tractor with good quality #2 grease very difficult to find a replacement
ingenios
i also have m with loader
M's are wonderfull had mine since 1976 moved it with me from mich to wyo to alaska No effort is too much to save one Mine is NOT for sale
most four cylinders are 1-3=4=2
For the model S and model K that is correct. For the model M per the manual it’s 1-2-4-3
a hammer and an anvil will loosen the clevis
I will try that. Ultimately I plan on putting a cable throttle on it. Thank you Mr Cassidy! It was good to see you the other day at lunch.
@@FarmerClaygood to see you. there is a way to recharge the magnet in the magnito