Excellent tech info and production values. Just what the shade tree mechanic needs to know, presented at a no-fluff, no BS pace. Watching your video is a real time-saver to anybody doing this job for the first time.
This video was insightful and straightforward! I want to personal thank you for posting this. I chose to do it step by step. Some of my bolt configurations were different and different sizes as described in the video. However, this video was perfect for sequence and torque specs. Really appreciate it, great work.
Thank you keep doing this please I am a mobile machanic and I don't know everything but it's really nice to watch and be able to have my tools ready and know what to expect ahead of time saves so much time
The orientation of the bearing does matter. There is a side that has to go near the speed sensor. I believe the black side, but you should confirm. But good video overall. Nice to see a torque wrench being used.
the easy way I found to do this job is to remove the steering knuckle after removing the hub with the slide hammer , easy access to the snap ring and getting out the bearings , so for all you that do this in your garage with jack stands .. save your back and do it on the bench !, also after pressing in the bearing to avoid damage to the dust cover on the bearing press in the hub first then install the snap ring.
Just a tip to anybody who may be having trouble getting the hub off…. Get the axle out of the hub first before trying to yank the hub off. Makes it so you’re only fighting against one contact point vs. two
Decent video explanation with one exception... It absolutely matters on which way the new bearing is placed into the steering Knuckle. I just found out the hard way that the brown side needs to face the ABS speed sensor on the inside because there's a magnet on that side for the sensor. If it's not, then there will be an error code, the ABS light will be forever lit on the instrument cluster, and there will be no ABS function when braking. This will be a redo for me at the added cost of two new bearings again. This is another life lesson that just because someone posts a video to try and make money, they don't always know what they're doing.
Great video, very clear and straight to the point! Only question I have is, why torque the center nut with the wheel on vs it off? Is there a difference or is it just personal preference?
So I just did this job. Had some trouble but seemed like reasonable hiccups. When all was said and done I put the car down and here's the bad news I got no movement. I have some cranky noises. Could I have pulled the trans axle out out of the transmission? Is it possible it's not seated properly. I'm at a bit of a loss. Thoughts?
2010 Focus SE with the manual 5-spd, just changed the Hubs and CV axles because I had a bad vibration up front, bought CV’s but it ended up being the front left hub so I just did them all, runs, drives, and feels like normal. Though soon as I pulled out of the garage the ABS, traction control, and brake light, all came on, dash said check brake system, and throws the two codes, C1233 and C1234 - left/right front wheel speed sensor input signal missing, i definitely bolted them back into the knuckle, any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I don't see a link for the slide hammer and hub adapter. Also the grappler kit you linked does appear to have a hub puller included (one that uses the impact vs a slide hammer) would that work in place of the slide hammer?
I'm about to check daughters car to see if I need to but I've seen 2 videos and both are taking out bearing but when I changed them in my old ford 07 windstar they sold me the whole knuckle with bearing? They don't for the focus?
The brown seal is a magnet for the speed sensor. Without it your ABS light and traction control light will come on. It goes on the back side facing the CV joint. Ask me how I know….
@@HowtoAutomotive you are welcome, I was wondering if you could maybe answer a question for me, on the speed sensor cables they are molded so is there a tool for helping split that molded cable so it can be spliced the tiny wires are inside. some of the speed sensors for the abs do not have plug and go. ty .
Its not that easy! The fit between the axle and hub is so tight it will require a press slide hammer and lot's of heat The towel to grab the slide puller is a hand saver Great Idea! Dont give up!
Red thread locket takes heat to remove. Shouldn't you be using blue instead? I heard you shouldn't heat suspension components, especially if they have rubber bushings like where you put red thread locker on the tie rod connection bolt.
I totally agree, I bought a complete bearing kit, all in one, and I am expecting it to be a lot easier than this vid, I do not know why the guy is dismantling so much for a simple job, ? Maybe it's a USA Focus ?
Be sure to check out the How to Automotive Tool Store www.amazon.com/shop/howtoautomotive
Fantastic explanation. The quality of your videos is superb. No fluff and to the point.
Thanks Brian for sharing!
Neur0bit glad you like the video. Thank you for watching!
Excellent tech info and production values. Just what the shade tree mechanic needs to know, presented at a no-fluff, no BS pace. Watching your video is a real time-saver to anybody doing this job for the first time.
Awesome video. One of the most thorough one I’ve seen.
Really great tutorial Brian, should be helpful to anyone doing this job.
Thank you Glen!
You are an Excellent Teacher! Your directions are precise and the fact that you are not overly wordy is so Appreciated!
This video was insightful and straightforward! I want to personal thank you for posting this. I chose to do it step by step. Some of my bolt configurations were different and different sizes as described in the video. However, this video was perfect for sequence and torque specs. Really appreciate it, great work.
Thank you keep doing this please I am a mobile machanic and I don't know everything but it's really nice to watch and be able to have my tools ready and know what to expect ahead of time saves so much time
I appreciate the info. Great video and to the point.
thank you- the job is complete and i found a ball joint that was busted (side note - getting those rivets out were difficult) thanks again
What size socket I need to remove the tire bolts. Thanks
This is one excellent video. Video quality is superb. Instruction is perfect. Thank you so much.
Outstanding video. You made it look easy with that bearing press kit.
Anthony G. Valletta thank you!
The orientation of the bearing does matter. There is a side that has to go near the speed sensor. I believe the black side, but you should confirm. But good video overall. Nice to see a torque wrench being used.
the easy way I found to do this job is to remove the steering knuckle after removing the hub with the slide hammer , easy access to the snap ring and getting out the bearings , so for all you that do this in your garage with jack stands .. save your back and do it on the bench !, also after pressing in the bearing to avoid damage to the dust cover on the bearing press in the hub first then install the snap ring.
Just a tip to anybody who may be having trouble getting the hub off…. Get the axle out of the hub first before trying to yank the hub off. Makes it so you’re only fighting against one contact point vs. two
Decent video explanation with one exception... It absolutely matters on which way the new bearing is placed into the steering Knuckle.
I just found out the hard way that the brown side needs to face the ABS speed sensor on the inside because there's a magnet on that side for the sensor.
If it's not, then there will be an error code, the ABS light will be forever lit on the instrument cluster, and there will be no ABS function when braking.
This will be a redo for me at the added cost of two new bearings again.
This is another life lesson that just because someone posts a video to try and make money, they don't always know what they're doing.
would you need an alignment after doing this job?
Brian, Awesome video/info thanks for sharing brotha, cheeeeeers
That torx bolt on the bottom of the knuckle was a huge mistake on Ford’s part, so easy to round bits with age if you don’t have air tools.
Great video, very clear and straight to the point! Only question I have is, why torque the center nut with the wheel on vs it off? Is there a difference or is it just personal preference?
That's an easy way to prevent the hub from rotating
Excellent video.
Thank you!
Do I need to use grease as a lub when putting the new one in or does it have to be dry
So I just did this job. Had some trouble but seemed like reasonable hiccups. When all was said and done I put the car down and here's the bad news I got no movement. I have some cranky noises. Could I have pulled the trans axle out out of the transmission? Is it possible it's not seated properly. I'm at a bit of a loss. Thoughts?
2010 Focus SE with the manual 5-spd, just changed the Hubs and CV axles because I had a bad vibration up front, bought CV’s but it ended up being the front left hub so I just did them all, runs, drives, and feels like normal. Though soon as I pulled out of the garage the ABS, traction control, and brake light, all came on, dash said check brake system, and throws the two codes, C1233 and C1234 - left/right front wheel speed sensor input signal missing, i definitely bolted them back into the knuckle, any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Did you put the bearings in backwards
@@zGenjin solved this awhile ago, but yes, yes I did lol
Very helpful video. Only detail missing is removing the ABS sensor! Broke mine doing this bearing and hub job
I don’t think that car has one
How do you know you need the Bearing replaced?
I have this square piece holding the bearing in like the snap ring, in the same area as the snap ring. How do I remove it?
When pressing/pulling in the hub, you want to support the inner race, not the outer race.
I don't see a link for the slide hammer and hub adapter. Also the grappler kit you linked does appear to have a hub puller included (one that uses the impact vs a slide hammer) would that work in place of the slide hammer?
I'm about to check daughters car to see if I need to but I've seen 2 videos and both are taking out bearing but when I changed them in my old ford 07 windstar they sold me the whole knuckle with bearing? They don't for the focus?
How would I know if I also need the knuckle replaced
Great video!!!
Wow… THANK YOU
Thank you for watching!
Good upload subbed👍
Thank you for watching and subscribing!
The brown seal is a magnet for the speed sensor. Without it your ABS light and traction control light will come on. It goes on the back side facing the CV joint. Ask me how I know….
How come your hub has only four studs? My 2008 focus has 5.
ty a great video.
Thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive you are welcome, I was wondering if you could maybe answer a question for me, on the speed sensor cables they are molded so is there a tool for helping split that molded cable so it can be spliced the tiny wires are inside. some of the speed sensors for the abs do not have plug and go. ty .
It does matter what direction your new bearing goes in. Follow manufacturer instructions. One side faces to the abs speed sensor and it’s magnetic
Thanks for the towel tip. Great video.
would a makita 18V Cordless Impact Driver work in replacement of the milwauke m12 impact driver
Beautiful
You put the bearing in backwards the brown ring is for the abs sensor
Easy way is removing the steering knuckle off the lower control arm and used a 12 ton strongway press from northern tools
Hi, can that stubby milwaukee undo the wheel nuts on a classic mini cooper?
Yes but it’s not made for it.
Check out the review video on the Stubby. ua-cam.com/video/FlP8BbkjN9E/v-deo.html
Do u need alignment after all?????
jose kings There’s nothing really that will affect the alignment in this job but it is a good idea to have it checked.
Where is the abs speed sensor wire?
Must have been removed at some point doing the procedure. Comes in from the top of the Hub goes into near the back of the bearing.
Left this out. Consequently I broke my abs sensor. My fault
Hub grappler ... noted
Its not that easy! The fit between the axle and hub is so tight it will require a press slide hammer and lot's of heat
The towel to grab the slide puller is a hand saver Great Idea!
Dont give up!
Thats why you put the axle nut on till its flush with the axle and hit it with a hammer or use an air hammer
Red thread locket takes heat to remove. Shouldn't you be using blue instead? I heard you shouldn't heat suspension components, especially if they have rubber bushings like where you put red thread locker on the tie rod connection bolt.
Broke ABS sensor and instructions weren’t very clear ended up breaking bearing after I put the new one on with the snap ring…
It does matter wich way u put the bearing in because the abs ring on the bearing needs to face the inside for the abs sensor
Easier to buy hub/spindle assembly
Can you direct me to a video that shows this? I'm not interested in using a press
I totally agree, I bought a complete bearing kit, all in one, and I am expecting it to be a lot easier than this vid, I do not know why the guy is dismantling so much for a simple job, ? Maybe it's a USA Focus ?
I guess you can buy extra parts if you can’t figure out the bearing press but I like this tutorial
@@mquinn1138 scaredy cat lmao
They’re press in bearings you goof, you can’t buy the complete assembly for these models.
The sill is not a weight bearing point for jacking or lifting
No thread locker! Especially not red!!
Replace the nylon locking nuts, did you think of that?
Other than that, great video.
When you do how to automotive but don't know how to 😬
For a backyard mechanic these videos are very helpful. Some of the comments, not so much. I knew what you meant.
I'm getting 59 ft lbs then 90° and I'm seeing 180 ft lbs and you say 199
Just crack the bearing nut free before jacking the car up
Compared to the equivalent Uk Ford Focus how crappy and complicated was this design..
took 6 week to do brakes..
Dog your customer right off, saying you'll link better quality parts, lol, you mean triple overpriced oem crap,
Love how his control arm bolt simply slides right out… meanwhile mine just told me that he’s “one with the car” now 🥲
Great Video. !!