wow, you have listed every problem and replacement ive done to my 86 325es and the only thing me and my buddy havent thought to do was adjust that dial on the MAF, thanks for the helpful insight!
I just pulled my modded out e30, this was a great reminder of all the Little things that go haywire, I forgot how fun it was to play with, I parked my e30 2 years ago just after I finished replacing everything, Time to finish the build and pass it on ,
To all: I have discovered something worth sharing. The fuel economy gauge on the dashboard is run off of vacuum. If yours appears to not be working... there is a very strong possibility that you have a leak. I had a very tiny leak at my brake booster ( took 1.5 seconds to leak down after shut down) and it caused the car to stumble, have poorer than expected fuel economy, and yet perform pretty good. Fixing this issue by deleting the brake booster temporarily has fixed all issues and has magically set in motion my fuel econo gauge. I almost wonder if this gauge was merely put in as a mechanics first diagnostics check!
For some reason the app doesn't want to upload evry part of the video. I totally recommend upgrading your fuel pressure regulator to the 318i reg. it bumps the pressure and is about 40 dollars cheaper than the one that is supposed to be there. It runs a lot smoother too.
Victor, there is a three way T coming off a heater hose below your intake manifold. I capped it off on the T with a plug and clamp that I bought from autozone. I really don't know if this did anything other than eliminate heater hose from the engine bay and, as I said, lower air temps going into the manifold. This will definitely slow the engines warm up cycle. I wouldn't put this wry high on my list of things to do. I just did it because I had the intake off
To all of you, you should definitely upgrade your fuel pressure regulator to the 318i module. It will make a big difference for the 60 dollars it costs.
@@fabinho909090 be sure to get some extra rubber orings and lube it well before insertibg it. If you bend the rail, or anything, it will blow the oring or just not work at all. Best to have spares just in case you need an oring on the road
Jose, the best advice I can give you is to tap into the wires on your O2 sensor as I did and move the flow meter until you et it to oscillate as I described in the movie. If you can send me your email I'll try to look up the instructions and send them your way
L JECTRONIC BOX HAS A SCREW TO REGULATE THE AIR GOING OUTSIDE OF THE AIR MEASURE SENSOR ,YOU NEED A EXHAUST ANALIZAR BACK ON YOU EXHAUST MUFFLER AND REGULATE THE SCREW TO MIX 14 TO 1 GAS AND AIR
Mr. Macfarland... On a scale of 1-10, 10 being undrivable my car is a, .5 . I have just learned to live with it. I raced this car against a 2013 vw passat v6 with the DSG transmission. And while he did win, I wasn't t that far behind him, especially on the curves. Perhaps if you could tell me how bad your car is stumbling we could narrow down what you should check.
I will make a movie to illustrate the point... but I have replaced the cars original injectors with a set from a newer car. I found some on ebay that were very reasonable... 50 bucks to be exact. The problems that my one leaking injector created: A) hard initial start... fuel pressure would leak down when car was not running... or running for all I know. this made it very difficult to impossible to start when the car was cold and the temperature was below 40F.... took about three cranks to start with warm car. B) The car had an unburned gas smell to the exhaust coupled with less than desirable fuel economy (27mpg/avg mixed). C) the car had a pre-detonation knock with a cold engine at any temperature. Now that I have the new set in B, C are solved. The car starts instantaneously at any temperature... Now that my fuel pressures are stabilized i am will ing to bet that the performance and fuel economy will increase. I am willing to bet that I'm not the only BMW owner with this problem. If your car takes more than two cranks to start... revisit your injectors.
I just bought a 1987 BMW 325e a couple months ago and I am in the works of getting everything mechanically sound and I noticed that my car has this addition plugged into the passenger side of the intake as well. What is it? Is it something I should remove or is it something I will benefit from? I appreciate it!!
Hey Zach I have the exact same problem with my 325e and can't trace it down! what was the fix finally for your car besides a new ecu and adjusting the afm manually?
Makan, this just dawned on me today but I do have a slight vacuum leak from my brake booster. I have largely ignored this... Not sure why, but it is possible that this is enough of a leak to affect the function of the fuel injection system, specifically the fuel control module. I am going to cap my vacuum feed off and see if the hesitation goes away. The snow may be gone where you are before I have a chance to do this. Let me know what you experience if you try this.
I checked it in my drive way and it definitely does seem to be better. Throttle responsiveness seems to be much faster and exhaust is crisper. Will have to play with the fuel richness again as I'm sure it has changed. Have fun guys!
hey zach, i got a 1987 325e, the problem is that someone touch the flowmeter and i have too much fuel consuption and explosions on the exhaust, i personally tried to calibrate the flowmeter but i cant find on internet how to calibrate it, maybe you can help me out
Would you have any insight on this issue? 84 318i. I start the car and get normal fuel pressure but will run horribly rich and stall unless I pull fuel pump fuse. Car runs smooth with no fuel pressure; immediately hesitates when fuse is reinstalled. Doesn't make sense. Both pumps are running and injectors are ticking along. Afm or dme issue?
@@zachnorton5233 how did you end up taking the wire out for the sensor? My 325e currently wont start and im hoping this sensor is the last thing i need.
hey Zach I have a 1985 325e and I see that you plugged up the 325e throttle body water hose plug where did you run the hoses to make this work because I broken the screws also will this do any thing to the car I think it just heats the throttle from getting stuck in cold weather but I live in south Carolina ?
'84... it was the year with the highest compression ratio... supposedly you could put a 325i head on it and get some pretty massive power gains with the original pistons.
Yea I jave an 88 325is & a 86 325e. The 325is has the m20b25 2.5L and the 325e has the m20b27 2.7L. The e was tuned to get better gas milage however if you take the Bosch motronic ECU the exhaust & the head from the IS and put them on the 325e and its a stroker tuned for power.
B!G_L waste of time... just swap it.. my m20b27 is fucking tired beyond belief.. looking at rebuild costs vs replacement motors vs swaps the swap seems to be the obvious choice when it comes to HP/KW per $$
Well I'm having fuel pump problems, the pump won't engage when I turn the key although when I ran a toggle switch to it, it fired right up. I don't have power at the fuse box either so my guess is either the crankshaft positioning sensor not allowing the fuel pump to engage because the engine needs to be timed and I've heard if it's not timed, the CPS keeps the fuel pump from turning on. That or the DME unit inside the ECU. The DME unit controls the fuel system including the fuel pump & these DME units can be bad but the ECU will test good. The only way to really know is taking another ECU out of a currently running vehicle & either putting the known good ECU in my 325is or vice versa. Do u have any advice or input for me here rob? I'm open to any suggestions, && thanks for the help guys
wow, you have listed every problem and replacement ive done to my 86 325es and the only thing me and my buddy havent thought to do was adjust that dial on the MAF, thanks for the helpful insight!
You will get the most benefit from replacing it with a lower milage unit
@@zachnorton5233 im at 196,000 miles and I also replaced it but never thought to adjust it!
I just pulled my modded out e30, this was a great reminder of all the Little things that go haywire, I forgot how fun it was to play with, I parked my e30 2 years ago just after I finished replacing everything, Time to finish the build and pass it on ,
To all: I have discovered something worth sharing. The fuel economy gauge on the dashboard is run off of vacuum. If yours appears to not be working... there is a very strong possibility that you have a leak. I had a very tiny leak at my brake booster ( took 1.5 seconds to leak down after shut down) and it caused the car to stumble, have poorer than expected fuel economy, and yet perform pretty good. Fixing this issue by deleting the brake booster temporarily has fixed all issues and has magically set in motion my fuel econo gauge. I almost wonder if this gauge was merely put in as a mechanics first diagnostics check!
cool
Ah, memories of my 325e with a dinan chip, such fun
For some reason the app doesn't want to upload evry part of the video. I totally recommend upgrading your fuel pressure regulator to the 318i reg. it bumps the pressure and is about 40 dollars cheaper than the one that is supposed to be there. It runs a lot smoother too.
My 91 e30 fluctuates the revs when cold at about 500-700. Great vid man.
Victor, there is a three way T coming off a heater hose below your intake manifold. I capped it off on the T with a plug and clamp that I bought from autozone. I really don't know if this did anything other than eliminate heater hose from the engine bay and, as I said, lower air temps going into the manifold. This will definitely slow the engines warm up cycle. I wouldn't put this wry high on my list of things to do. I just did it because I had the intake off
This guy knows his stuff and is real as fuck about it! Lol
I’m dying laughing while watching this. The fan at the end 😂
The crank pickup is a diagnostic tool... It does nothing for performance. Don't but one. FYI.
To all of you, you should definitely upgrade your fuel pressure regulator to the 318i module. It will make a big difference for the 60 dollars it costs.
Why is that? More fuel up top?
Do you have more information on it?
What year and engine on the 318i part?
Thank you
@@fabinho909090 i believe it was for a 1984, same year as the car above ... but its been a while and I could be wrong
@@fabinho909090 be sure to get some extra rubber orings and lube it well before insertibg it. If you bend the rail, or anything, it will blow the oring or just not work at all. Best to have spares just in case you need an oring on the road
@@zachnorton5233 e30 318i or e36 318i?
Jose, the best advice I can give you is to tap into the wires on your O2 sensor as I did and move the flow meter until you et it to oscillate as I described in the movie. If you can send me your email I'll try to look up the instructions and send them your way
L JECTRONIC BOX HAS A SCREW TO REGULATE THE AIR GOING OUTSIDE OF THE AIR MEASURE SENSOR ,YOU NEED A EXHAUST ANALIZAR BACK ON YOU EXHAUST MUFFLER AND REGULATE THE SCREW TO MIX 14 TO 1 GAS AND AIR
Thank you, I love my 325 too!
Mr. Macfarland... On a scale of 1-10, 10 being undrivable my car is a, .5 . I have just learned to live with it. I raced this car against a 2013 vw passat v6 with the DSG transmission. And while he did win, I wasn't t that far behind him, especially on the curves. Perhaps if you could tell me how bad your car is stumbling we could narrow down what you should check.
I will make a movie to illustrate the point... but I have replaced the cars original injectors with a set from a newer car. I found some on ebay that were very reasonable... 50 bucks to be exact. The problems that my one leaking injector created: A) hard initial start... fuel pressure would leak down when car was not running... or running for all I know. this made it very difficult to impossible to start when the car was cold and the temperature was below 40F.... took about three cranks to start with warm car. B) The car had an unburned gas smell to the exhaust coupled with less than desirable fuel economy (27mpg/avg mixed). C) the car had a pre-detonation knock with a cold engine at any temperature.
Now that I have the new set in B, C are solved. The car starts instantaneously at any temperature... Now that my fuel pressures are stabilized i am will ing to bet that the performance and fuel economy will increase.
I am willing to bet that I'm not the only BMW owner with this problem. If your car takes more than two cranks to start... revisit your injectors.
I just bought a 1987 BMW 325e a couple months ago and I am in the works of getting everything mechanically sound and I noticed that my car has this addition plugged into the passenger side of the intake as well. What is it? Is it something I should remove or is it something I will benefit from? I appreciate it!!
Hey Zach I have the exact same problem with my 325e and can't trace it down! what was the fix finally for your car besides a new ecu and adjusting the afm manually?
Makan, this just dawned on me today but I do have a slight vacuum leak from my brake booster. I have largely ignored this... Not sure why, but it is possible that this is enough of a leak to affect the function of the fuel injection system, specifically the fuel control module. I am going to cap my vacuum feed off and see if the hesitation goes away. The snow may be gone where you are before I have a chance to do this. Let me know what you experience if you try this.
I checked it in my drive way and it definitely does seem to be better. Throttle responsiveness seems to be much faster and exhaust is crisper. Will have to play with the fuel richness again as I'm sure it has changed. Have fun guys!
hey zach, i got a 1987 325e, the problem is that someone touch the flowmeter and i have too much fuel consuption and explosions on the exhaust, i personally tried to calibrate the flowmeter but i cant find on internet how to calibrate it, maybe you can help me out
Would you have any insight on this issue? 84 318i. I start the car and get normal fuel pressure but will run horribly rich and stall unless I pull fuel pump fuse. Car runs smooth with no fuel pressure; immediately hesitates when fuse is reinstalled. Doesn't make sense. Both pumps are running and injectors are ticking along. Afm or dme issue?
Did you fixed?
Wheres the idle valve control??
Did you ever get around to putting the crankshaft position sensor in? Was it difficult to take the wires out from the other wiring??
IT DOES NOTHING FOR PERFORMANCE. hard pass on that part dude.
@@zachnorton5233 how did you end up taking the wire out for the sensor? My 325e currently wont start and im hoping this sensor is the last thing i need.
@@tommyvelho3876 did you try mashing the gas all the way down and trying to start it? If it starts, you have a vacuum problem.
@@tommyvelho3876 If I remember correctly the part has no effect on how the engine runs, it is for diagnostics only.
How did it go?
I hate electric fans in e30.
hey Zach I have a 1985 325e and I see that you plugged up the 325e throttle body water hose plug where did you run the hoses to make this work because I broken the screws also will this do any thing to the car I think it just heats the throttle from getting stuck in cold weather but I live in south Carolina ?
what year is it?
'84... it was the year with the highest compression ratio... supposedly you could put a 325i head on it and get some pretty massive power gains with the original pistons.
Yea I jave an 88 325is & a 86 325e. The 325is has the m20b25 2.5L and the 325e has the m20b27 2.7L. The e was tuned to get better gas milage however if you take the Bosch motronic ECU the exhaust & the head from the IS and put them on the 325e and its a stroker tuned for power.
B!G_L waste of time... just swap it.. my m20b27 is fucking tired beyond belief.. looking at rebuild costs vs replacement motors vs swaps the swap seems to be the obvious choice when it comes to HP/KW per $$
Well I'm having fuel pump problems, the pump won't engage when I turn the key although when I ran a toggle switch to it, it fired right up. I don't have power at the fuse box either so my guess is either the crankshaft positioning sensor not allowing the fuel pump to engage because the engine needs to be timed and I've heard if it's not timed, the CPS keeps the fuel pump from turning on. That or the DME unit inside the ECU. The DME unit controls the fuel system including the fuel pump & these DME units can be bad but the ECU will test good. The only way to really know is taking another ECU out of a currently running vehicle & either putting the known good ECU in my 325is or vice versa. Do u have any advice or input for me here rob? I'm open to any suggestions, && thanks for the help guys
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/0V7FYgEjhO8D48dMjy7flow59WUjPXF9_qWth-yGzQMcKs0cpZJ4F78guk17j_hV_RG0GQep_