When you replace the bearings it would do that tick for couple of times but it goes away after that. If you car does it daily I would do an oil text analysis. If the car is parked for few days and does that sound after it's been sitting for a while that's normal as well. It shouldn't do it every single time.
so just to be clear, are rod bearings going to be regular replacement items as in every 60K miles or are there robust versions that would last longer than that? case in point when the s54 rod bearings had a recall, the replacement versions they had didn't require service for another 100k plus miles.
We have a lot of customers buying BE bearings. They have been on backorder lately. How long would those last I don't know but they are supposed to be superior to OEM.
Hello, very good friend, the video. I want to ask you a technical question. a month ago I bought a M3 E92 manual transmission year 2009 it has a slight vibration when I accelerate it stopped in neutral between 1200 and 1500 RPM. It feels like the engine is out of balance, is that normal? do you know what the problem would be?
Question on the rod bolts I see you lube the threads why not the shoulder of the bolt that contacts the rod bearing caps? I think you would get a better even torque
I don't think you're are too talking about the lube. We put locktite on the treats to they bolts won't come loose. It's like a glue for the bolt threats.
This video is too good! Btw I hear three "ticks" at 1:00:10 when the car just started, any idea what that might be?
When you replace the bearings it would do that tick for couple of times but it goes away after that. If you car does it daily I would do an oil text analysis. If the car is parked for few days and does that sound after it's been sitting for a while that's normal as well. It shouldn't do it every single time.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Thank you!
You're welcome. Good luck 🍀
The best DIY video ever. Very detailed. this is exactly what I needed to start my project. thank you
Appreciate it
i saw other videos and this is the best one. you show everything and narrate nice and slow. THANKS I will tackle this
Appreciate your feedback.
Great video!!!! I was able to do it in my garage though
You're killing it Red. Good job
BMW рулииииит !
I will be tackling this myself soon! Thank you!
Awesome
that was great thank you, I am not sure if I can do it in my garage
Great video thank you, I see ARP say 60ft-LBS for their bolts, but I see you torqued them to 50FT-LBS, is there a reason for this change in torque?
bravo
Good job !!!!!!
Thank you for support.
how to replace rod bearings on bmw e90 n43 engine
so just to be clear, are rod bearings going to be regular replacement items as in every 60K miles or are there robust versions that would last longer than that? case in point when the s54 rod bearings had a recall, the replacement versions they had didn't require service for another 100k plus miles.
We have a lot of customers buying BE bearings. They have been on backorder lately. How long would those last I don't know but they are supposed to be superior to OEM.
Che marca di bronzine hai usato?le OEM bmw?
Hello, very good friend, the video. I want to ask you a technical question. a month ago I bought a M3 E92 manual transmission year 2009 it has a slight vibration when I accelerate it stopped in neutral between 1200 and 1500 RPM. It feels like the engine is out of balance, is that normal? do you know what the problem would be?
It could be a variety of things. Most common engine mounts or a slight misfire. It would have to be diagnosed
Also could be throttle acutator dying
Question on the rod bolts I see you lube the threads why not the shoulder of the bolt that contacts the rod bearing caps? I think you would get a better even torque
I don't think you're are too talking about the lube. We put locktite on the treats to they bolts won't come loose. It's like a glue for the bolt threats.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 ARP fastener assembly lubricant is like locktite?
Locktite is use on the threats if you want them locked pretty much. It's not a lubricant. It's opposite from lubricant.
@Scott you're right, per ARP you should coat the entire rod bolt including the shoulder.