I’ve been a DIY plumber since the freeze and can’t get a plumber out because they’re chasing the big $$ items (can’t blame them) but I have been going through your videos for assistance in fixing my stuff. So far you’ve helped me with the commode, the shower, and the kitchen sink. My latest endeavor was the kitchen sink, the galvanized pipes are 50 years old and had a little chipping at the ends, and I couldn’t keep the pipes from wicking (learned that from you too) I got some T-2 and vuala no more wicking. Thanks for the videos and the help, I’m supposed to come out to Dallas in a couple of months for training and when I do I might have to stop by and take one of your guys out to dinner or lunch. I appreciate it.
#1 is the technician behind the pipe wrenches ( good prep work and conscientious ?). #2 is quality of the materials ( good thread, good manufacturing process ?). #3 is pipe and thread sealant and there is a lot of good ones out there today but I will take exception to Roger on this one, if you can wash it out of your clothes it will eventually deteriorate over time. As a first responder/pipe fitter/ service technician I have ran over 10,000 emergency calls in my gas utility career and when it comes down to sealant failures #1 was Teflon tape only ( white stuff, low density) & #2 is water soluble pipe compounds ( the stuff you can wash out of your clothes). When it comes to Firestop sealants you should always go with the type your code enforcement authorities want you to use. When it comes to brands there is very little evidence one brand is better than an other ( I feel the rating is more important than the brand). Hope some of this information was helpful and you all please stay safe out there 👍.
I once watched how well drillers prep the glue joints on their well casings, and I have slowed down a ton on my glue joints. And man, has that ever made a difference. Primer full depth plus 50 percent, and wait until it loses the wet look before gluing. Always wipe the joint after it sets up. On threaded joints, I never use just dope anymore, no matter how small the diameter of the pipe. 3 wraps of tape and wipe the dope on with my fingertip, rather then the brush. Solid joints, in both cases, that you can be confident will pass the
You should do a video explaining different valves and regulators. When you need them and what the purpose for it are for! Huge Fan from Tennessee. I'm a 2 year plumbing apprentice and I love what I do.
What you're stopping with the fire sealant is the flue effect. The fire actually gets pulled through the unsealed openings. Sealing holes could add crucial time for occupants to escape safely.
I worked at a trailer house plant as the furnace/water heater guy, loved the job except the company was hilariously unorganized and did not provide respirators for all the fiberglass. I recommend to a supervisor that we use tru blue but he told me we never had any problems with number 5 so we didn't switch. We also put fire foam on all the holes through the floor and ceiling but sometimes I felt like they had me filling holes that were too big so I would screw down sheet metal so the foam wouldn't get knocked through the the floor or something.
I think it make sense to add dope before AND after applying the Teflon tape. It’s probably an example of over-engineering a project, but if you think about the mechanical stress on the threads, it’s actually in the shear direction, right (parallel to the pipes)? So wouldn’t the dope be equally advantageous on both sides of the tape for the micro gaps in the male’s and female’s respective threads? Maybe this logic is where people are coming from who prefer to only use the dope and no tape? 🤷♂️
ROGER, what would work best for pipe thread galling prevention on stainless steel metal ?? The temperature will be 2000 degrees, inside a wood stove. I will need to disassemble the pipes after a few months of usage Sir. Thanks P.S. non metal would be best Rodger.
Thank you for this! Do you have any other recommendations? It's much better to listen from someone's who has lived the profession, than what some actor on TV is told to pretend to convince me of what to buy. I'd rather do that from Roger Wakefield when it comes to these kind of things.
Watched several of these videos looking for a product that will seal up a 3/4 thread elbow when it won't quite get tight and still be indexed correctly.
I use utility flux most of the time when soldering and sometimes nokorode. I used many different pipe dope brands including: Megaloc, Pro dope, Gasoila, Loctite, Blueblock, Permatex and many more.
The guy I learned from only used rectorseak yellow which I love but where I work now we use T2. What’s really good about the T2 is if it turns over it doesn’t spill. As for flux, I also use C Flux mainly because it’s what I learned with and what I’ve always used. C Flux is water soluble though or at least I thought it was. I means it’s not labeled as such but it will clean up with water so I think it is somewhat water soluble.
Very good information, thanks! One thing though, can you please wave the product around a bit more - I could almost make out what the product looks like...
It is a pain but I use to also use Loctie paste with micro Teflon beads in it and both are the best out there. I rather it be a pain in the butt to remove then leaks
Use Teflon tape, wrap it around 3 times, add paste (it honestly doesn't matter what kind) and you'll be good to go. I wonder if Roger knows what horse hair is?
Hello Roger, I'm a new subscriber. I'm enjoying your videos. I looked at your past uploads to see if you had any regarding slope/pitch of waste lines. I didn't see any. I run into several situations in homes that aren't even that old in which the waste lines have little to no pitch. Perhaps you could make a video on how important slope/pitch is. Also, roughing out locations for fixtures. I've seen rough plumbing torn out in order to redo the plumbing to accommodate certain fixtures. Builders are notorious for not submitting fixture specifications to the plumbing contractor and in the end the builder has to pay to adjust rough plumbing and the drywall contractor to fix the wall. Anyway, just some content recommendations. Looking forward to watching more of your vids.
I am under the impression that C-flux in no longer allowed on copper pipes in the Dallas and surrounding area. I was told there were substantial fines for even having it on you truck. I had the hardest time locating a bottle for a brass flange to lead bend replacement job because 5 different brand stores did not carry it any longer. And yes I found some at Furguson. lol. Is this a fact or an urban legend?
Legal or illegal for use, is different from legal or illegal for sale. Code jurisdictions and corporate sales jurisdictions are very often overlapping. Whether or not a product is available on the shelf does not mean you can use it. It's always your responsibility to know and abide by your local code jurisdiction.
Mr Wakefield: would travel down beyond Corpus. Small old pipes, piping connections looks as a jigsaw.(I would not be proud to collect for this mess!) A franchise (RR) just quoted an exponential ant.) FEMA might help some. But I would ashamed to give such hi estimate( done by apprentice).House more than 70 years.know reputable plumber here in CC Tx.?
When I wired boilers the a few of the pipe filters would get Tru blue all over the place. I damaged more clothing and got it on my hands and tools. Savages
I have a galvanized water well pressure tank (75psi) that has an air volume control float switch mounted on the side of the tank (fitting has 1-1/4 MNPT). Part is Johnson Controls (F93B-1C). Box says only use teflon tape. However, teflon tape is not enough to keep it from leaking. Wanted to know if the Rectorseal T plus 2 is can be substituted for teflon in this case and does it do a better job than teflon tape? Second topic/question. My well water constantly plugs up this switch and over time, when the float sticks and no longer moves up and down with the water level, it allows too much air in the tank. The reason I say this is I need a compound that still allows the fitting to be easily removed. Does this Rectorseal T plus 2 thread sealant have this removal capability?
I would pass on the the White Dope. RectorSeal #5 yellow dope is better imo. For a really good dope there's a blue pipe dope called Gasoila. That stuff is hard to take off your skin.
I used a couple of pieces of bread once on a drain to sewer line, so I could get a good dry glue connection lol. I'm a electrician, I'm not a plumber and I owned the house. It worked so sue me 😂.
An hour per inch dry time for water lines. Never use clear glue, even on drain lines. End of story. Doesn't matter which glue you use as long as its rated for the piping you are plumbing.
Honest question for any plumber: When installing a faucet they say not to use ANY sealant or PTFE tape on the faucet supply lines? Is this true? Should you still use pipe dope or PTFE tape in a small amount? Just curious what others have experienced?
No. They are a mechanical joint. The threaded portion of the joint is not the part of the joint that seals it watertight. Anyone taping or doping compression fittings, is simply ignorant of how the joints function.
a little bit of faucet grease or very small amount of pipe dope on the threads is a good lube but the seal is from the rubber. the lube just helps you get it apart later
D nelson is correct. Nothing extra should be necessary. A very slight bit of pipe dope on the rubber seal or the threads could be useful as lubrication to let things settle into place. Plain water could do the same thing.
I’ve been a DIY plumber since the freeze and can’t get a plumber out because they’re chasing the big $$ items (can’t blame them) but I have been going through your videos for assistance in fixing my stuff. So far you’ve helped me with the commode, the shower, and the kitchen sink. My latest endeavor was the kitchen sink, the galvanized pipes are 50 years old and had a little chipping at the ends, and I couldn’t keep the pipes from wicking (learned that from you too) I got some T-2 and vuala no more wicking. Thanks for the videos and the help, I’m supposed to come out to Dallas in a couple of months for training and when I do I might have to stop by and take one of your guys out to dinner or lunch. I appreciate it.
Thank you for watching and for your feedback. We are so glad you find our videos valuable.
#1 is the technician behind the pipe wrenches ( good prep work and conscientious ?). #2 is quality of the materials ( good thread, good manufacturing process ?). #3 is pipe and thread sealant and there is a lot of good ones out there today but I will take exception to Roger on this one, if you can wash it out of your clothes it will eventually deteriorate over time. As a first responder/pipe fitter/ service technician I have ran over 10,000 emergency calls in my gas utility career and when it comes down to sealant failures #1 was Teflon tape only ( white stuff, low density) & #2 is water soluble pipe compounds ( the stuff you can wash out of your clothes).
When it comes to Firestop sealants you should always go with the type your code enforcement authorities want you to use. When it comes to brands there is very little evidence one brand is better than an other ( I feel the rating is more important than the brand).
Hope some of this information was helpful and you all please stay safe out there 👍.
Thanks. I bought trublu to plumb in a 1/2 air hose reel. It’s been running for 2 years with no leaks
i dont use trublu often unless i dont want something ever coming apart. white ptfe on watet and yellow rectorseal for gas works for me
Can you make a video on the difference between different glue/cements?
I once watched how well drillers prep the glue joints on their well casings, and I have slowed down a ton on my glue joints. And man, has that ever made a difference. Primer full depth plus 50 percent, and wait until it loses the wet look before gluing. Always wipe the joint after it sets up. On threaded joints, I never use just dope anymore, no matter how small the diameter of the pipe. 3 wraps of tape and wipe the dope on with my fingertip, rather then the brush. Solid joints, in both cases, that you can be confident will pass the
Robert thank you for educating plumbers on our products! You are a wealth of knowledge!
You should do a video explaining different valves and regulators. When you need them and what the purpose for it are for! Huge Fan from Tennessee. I'm a 2 year plumbing apprentice and I love what I do.
What you're stopping with the fire sealant is the flue effect. The fire actually gets pulled through the unsealed openings.
Sealing holes could add crucial time for occupants to escape safely.
I worked at a trailer house plant as the furnace/water heater guy, loved the job except the company was hilariously unorganized and did not provide respirators for all the fiberglass. I recommend to a supervisor that we use tru blue but he told me we never had any problems with number 5 so we didn't switch. We also put fire foam on all the holes through the floor and ceiling but sometimes I felt like they had me filling holes that were too big so I would screw down sheet metal so the foam wouldn't get knocked through the the floor or something.
I think it make sense to add dope before AND after applying the Teflon tape. It’s probably an example of over-engineering a project, but if you think about the mechanical stress on the threads, it’s actually in the shear direction, right (parallel to the pipes)? So wouldn’t the dope be equally advantageous on both sides of the tape for the micro gaps in the male’s and female’s respective threads?
Maybe this logic is where people are coming from who prefer to only use the dope and no tape? 🤷♂️
ROGER, what would work best for pipe thread galling prevention on stainless steel metal ?? The temperature will be 2000 degrees, inside a wood stove. I will need to disassemble the pipes after a few months of usage Sir. Thanks
P.S. non metal would be best Rodger.
Thank you for this!
Do you have any other recommendations?
It's much better to listen from someone's who has lived the profession, than what some actor on TV is told to pretend to convince me of what to buy.
I'd rather do that from Roger Wakefield when it comes to these kind of things.
Watched several of these videos looking for a product that will seal up a 3/4 thread elbow when it won't quite get tight and still be indexed correctly.
I use utility flux most of the time when soldering and sometimes nokorode. I used many different pipe dope brands including: Megaloc, Pro dope, Gasoila, Loctite, Blueblock, Permatex and many more.
The guy I learned from only used rectorseak yellow which I love but where I work now we use T2. What’s really good about the T2 is if it turns over it doesn’t spill. As for flux, I also use C Flux mainly because it’s what I learned with and what I’ve always used. C Flux is water soluble though or at least I thought it was. I means it’s not labeled as such but it will clean up with water so I think it is somewhat water soluble.
Blue Monster is the best I've ever used.
I’m in the gas industry and I do not like the rector seal T plus 2, it’s great at first but dries out. For gas, I prefer the rector seal yellow 5.
Very good information, thanks! One thing though, can you please wave the product around a bit more - I could almost make out what the product looks like...
Trublu is horrible to try and remove a fitting something teflon based I like blue monster personally.Great vid
It is a pain but I use to also use Loctie paste with micro Teflon beads in it and both are the best out there. I rather it be a pain in the butt to remove then leaks
Hilti FS One - it's the only fire caulk approved for our customers facilities
Here in Michigan its code to use water soluble flux and fire protection in all penetration. Even in residential. I use the fire foam
I use trublu and select for steam pipe
Stay clean for pipes up to 2”
Use Teflon tape, wrap it around 3 times, add paste (it honestly doesn't matter what kind) and you'll be good to go. I wonder if Roger knows what horse hair is?
Mister residential know it all
@@urielalmanza9696 nope, mr plumber of 30 years know it all
When applying both, do yo apply pipe dope first then teflon tape or apply telfon tape first then pipe dope? 🤔
Rector seal number 5. And I've also heard number 2.
Hello Roger, I'm a new subscriber. I'm enjoying your videos. I looked at your past uploads to see if you had any regarding slope/pitch of waste lines. I didn't see any. I run into several situations in homes that aren't even that old in which the waste lines have little to no pitch. Perhaps you could make a video on how important slope/pitch is. Also, roughing out locations for fixtures. I've seen rough plumbing torn out in order to redo the plumbing to accommodate certain fixtures. Builders are notorious for not submitting fixture specifications to the plumbing contractor and in the end the builder has to pay to adjust rough plumbing and the drywall contractor to fix the wall. Anyway, just some content recommendations. Looking forward to watching more of your vids.
I am under the impression that C-flux in no longer allowed on copper pipes in the Dallas and surrounding area. I was told there were substantial fines for even having it on you truck. I had the hardest time locating a bottle for a brass flange to lead bend replacement job because 5 different brand stores did not carry it any longer. And yes I found some at Furguson. lol. Is this a fact or an urban legend?
Legal or illegal for use, is different from legal or illegal for sale. Code jurisdictions and corporate sales jurisdictions are very often overlapping. Whether or not a product is available on the shelf does not mean you can use it. It's always your responsibility to know and abide by your local code jurisdiction.
49 seconds after video posted
Tru Blue is the best but stains anything it gets on
@Zack9912000: just wear blue and you are all set.
Blue Monster is my go to for anything plumbing and have never had it leak on me
Yea we use that also, along with pipe dope.
I have a leak on the output of HVAC water condensate box( for lack of a better word) should this even be sealed the water isn’t ever under pressure?
Thanks for the to the point and informational video as always. What's your thoughts on using expando on threaded pipe?
What do you think of job corps plumbing course
Mr Wakefield: would travel down beyond Corpus. Small old pipes, piping connections looks as a jigsaw.(I would not be proud to collect for this mess!) A franchise (RR) just quoted an exponential ant.)
FEMA might help some. But I would ashamed to give such hi estimate( done by apprentice).House more than 70 years.know reputable plumber here in CC Tx.?
Always good to know the right items to use!
Heard about rectorseal in class the other night
Quock question: should I use teflon tape for plastic threaded fittings?
Tru Blu has been great for the items I use.
Im confused, the title taks about glue but the thumbnail shows 4 products that aren't glue?
When I wired boilers the a few of the pipe filters would get Tru blue all over the place. I damaged more clothing and got it on my hands and tools.
Savages
I love watching his videos so much
Can you remove old trublu off threads? Like you can tape
I have a galvanized water well pressure tank (75psi) that has an air volume control float switch mounted on the side of the tank (fitting has 1-1/4 MNPT). Part is Johnson Controls (F93B-1C). Box says only use teflon tape. However, teflon tape is not enough to keep it from leaking. Wanted to know if the Rectorseal T plus 2 is can be substituted for teflon in this case and does it do a better job than teflon tape? Second topic/question. My well water constantly plugs up this switch and over time, when the float sticks and no longer moves up and down with the water level, it allows too much air in the tank. The reason I say this is I need a compound that still allows the fitting to be easily removed. Does this Rectorseal T plus 2 thread sealant have this removal capability?
I have been watching Roger for a while now and being honest his video now days sounds like a paid Endorsement and product endorsement for Fergusons.
This comment was brought to you be Ferguson
I would pass on the the White Dope. RectorSeal #5 yellow dope is better imo. For a really good dope there's a blue pipe dope called Gasoila. That stuff is hard to take off your skin.
Usually plumber tape is enough but the common cause of leaks is the customer is manhandling the faucet
Great info as always. Love your videos!
Ohmg your camera quality is so good 😊
Do you use lead in 2021? Damn.
I got a question. U ever have to use a slice of bread when plumbing old copper lines. Hahahaha
I used a couple of pieces of bread once on a drain to sewer line, so I could get a good dry glue connection lol. I'm a electrician, I'm not a plumber and I owned the house. It worked so sue me 😂.
Thanks for more great info!
gasoila has always worked well for me.
Thanks for the info! Your the best
An hour per inch dry time for water lines. Never use clear glue, even on drain lines. End of story. Doesn't matter which glue you use as long as its rated for the piping you are plumbing.
What about Venom or Gasola ???
Thank you for this video 🙏
My pleasure 😊
I love my TruBlu
You can look at that pipe dope and get some on you...
how bout lill jimism on it bro
I love me some blu goo
have u used tape dope by oatey
TRUBLUE the best
Rectumseal?
😏 I make sure my guys use it because I'm sponsored,
Why don't you use the hilti firestop instead for fire protection? I work in commercial, and all we use is hilti firestop.
Leak lock!
I do like rectorseal products, but did they pay for this video they are all their premium product line.
You look different today.
Too much advertising for the most arrogant, expensive plumbing supply in our area of ft Myers fl.🤬
Muy buen comentario
Honest question for any plumber:
When installing a faucet they say not to use ANY sealant or PTFE tape on the faucet supply lines? Is this true? Should you still use pipe dope or PTFE tape in a small amount? Just curious what others have experienced?
No. They are a mechanical joint. The threaded portion of the joint is not the part of the joint that seals it watertight. Anyone taping or doping compression fittings, is simply ignorant of how the joints function.
a little bit of faucet grease or very small amount of pipe dope on the threads is a good lube but the seal is from the rubber. the lube just helps you get it apart later
D nelson is correct. Nothing extra should be necessary. A very slight bit of pipe dope on the rubber seal or the threads could be useful as lubrication to let things settle into place. Plain water could do the same thing.
This guy is the Alex Jones of plumbers
Bast solbant sar
Mmmm
Second
First
Damn you lol
Rain or shine your the winner 🏆
@@51-FS rain or shine sucks
Are you losing weight????????
if you use rain or shine you are a joke!!!!
I agree.
With flex seal will all soon be out of a job