This was an amazing review! Professional, thorough, and to the point. Your presenting style reminds me of Chris from Explaining Computers (another presenter I very much respect).
you wont believe how clutch this is. i just got mine in and set it up but dont have much of an idea of how to use it. im sure this will be helpful. you really helped me how to use my 3d printer.
i been running this machine for a while, overall an excellent well built machine with a decent price tag, however the biggest downside is the weak 300w spindle. For wood they are absoletly fine but for a machine that is this ridge and advertised to cut soft metals it need something alot more. I personally upgraded the spindle to a 1.5kw spindle now can run metal jobs like it nothing even can cut titanium plates at okay ish speed. and it give me the opportunity to run 10mm end mills too with an er16 collet. Overall very happy with the machine very well build just wish it give you an option to buy a better spindle out of the box rather than wasting money on the 300w spindle
@@ElPossum-r6t i upgraded to a gpenny 1.5kw vfd spindle that come with a er16 collet rather than er11. It aircooled but they do have a water cooled version aswell i jsut cant be bother to setup the water cooling bit so went with air cool. Overall very happy with it can machine metal properly at decent speed
When I was in vocational school to become a machinist my instructor also suggested keeping some good quality double sided tape handy. Just slow things down a little bit and you would be surprised at how well it works for tiny parts.
Great informative review. One thing I think that you may not have thought of during the spindle testing. In the 300watt spindle you used a 1/8” end mill with a 1/8” shank. When using the Makita router motor you used a 1/8 end mill with a 1/4” shank providing a stiffer tool to begin with skewing the results somewhat. You should have used a the same 1/8 end mill with a 1/4” shank in bath spindles. The ER-11 spindle can accept a 1/4” ER-11 collet. I don’t think the 309watt spindle would have preformed as well as the more powerful Makita but do believe there would be a noticeable improvement in surface finish.
Hey there, with the Makita running at 4.5 the RPM is 25.000, so you roughly double the speed with the same gCode. More power, double speed, of course the gCode makes it easy, but it only shows the obvious evidence. To be fair and allow people to see the real difference between the 300w spindle and the wood router, you should have double the feed and speed of the gCode for the Makita (or divided by two the feed and speed of the Spindle's gCode or set the speed of the Makita to position 2) making parameters somehow equivalent. For your information, the optimal parameters for your 1/8"carbide bit in 6061 amuminium should be something like: _ 0.2in (5mm) depth of cut, so the bit should allow you to cut into you 0.125in (3.125mm) plate in one easy pass considering the 1.5hp of the router. _ 6370 RPM (Makita's speed 1 is 10.000rpm, not suitable for cutting aluminium) _ 15.3in.mn (388mm.mn) - BUT should be raised with the Makita to 23in.mn (610mm.mn) because of the 10.000 RPM. Can the machine stands it ? If yes, what about the cut quality ?
It will probably take an extraordinary amount of time to do this but... are you guys planning on putting together a Milo V1.5? I'd be curious how a DIY bridgeport CNC mill compares to these kit gantry CNCs.
Hi firstly thank you for you video. It really helped. But can I please ask did you experience any problems with the y axis not allowing the full working area of 300mm x 300mm being directly over the bed .... mine runs some 15mm short of the back of the bed . This obviously hangs over the front of the bed. So when working at a full 300 x 300 it is causes problems ..... do you know if anyone else has reported this and is there a fix for it ?
This side of the industry sorely needs someone like Bambu to just come in and do a lot of common sense things and more. This pace of yearly improvements is embarrassing.
Querida Aurora,cuál sería la mejor opción para adquirir una mini cnc mill con opción de quemado láser que sea asequible para iniciar a realizar prácticas,gracias por sus recomendaciones...su programa es fenomenal 👍
Nice video. Here's a few tips. You would get better results if the materials are mounted directly on to a solid surface. This will result in less chatter. Next time try the same cuts with a single flute up cut bit and set the milling to a convenientional cut.
good videos as always. a small thing regarding operation and execution of milling of workpiece. using air assist or adding liquid (alcohol) when milling helps. another thing is when you have to mill, you use a scrubber mill for all the rough and finish milling at the end with a slower feed and you mill clockwise as white as possible so the endmill has to do the job. another thing I saw was when you milled in wood that it does not move in the same constant movement around the object but constantly changes speed, can it be selected differently or is it in the software. ????
@@AuroraTech Ahh, that's a pity. I am interested in what you would make of it's linear motors and it's 3 micron X-Y accuracy. However, I look forward to what you show us between now and then. Many thanks!
so, im confused. how do i take a g code from a software, and tell the machine where to start, using the offline controller? and , is the offline controller capable of doing multiple finishes with different bits?
It could also be the 300w spindle with the collet has too much runout under load, Makita router is probably much better built to handle sideloading. My cheap machine with a similar 500w motor could not do profiling cuts at 0.3mm DOC in aluminium when I got it, now it can do 1-2mm easily as its only driving a separate spindle through a belt drive, same or less power but a more rigid spindle. It even handles milling steel now to a point.
1=10,000 2=12,000 3=17,000 4=22,000 5=27,000 6=30,000 So, I guess 4.5 is something around 25k. Some users actually measured it: discuss.inventables.com/t/makita-rt0700c-variable-speed-chart/30922/2
i notice aurora growing faster ....she's getting much cuter day after day 😍 ALSO the quality of the videos and reviews getting more and more better 😍🥰 so proud of u 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
The drivers for the steppers probably would not support the current for the bigger motors, so you would have to change those too. If they are integrated or it doesnt have outputs for signals for an external driver you might have to buy new drivers or a controller too
Great review. In my opinion, these desktop CNC machines will never become mills unless their frame is made with steel instead of aluminum extrusions. I would call them soft metal engravers at most but not milling machines. The good thing is that they are not advertised as mills but i just wanted to clarify that.
Yet another end-to-end solid review! Can't say it enough: I love your matter-of-fact, straight-to-the-point, no-BS-just-good-content style 👍
This was an amazing review! Professional, thorough, and to the point. Your presenting style reminds me of Chris from Explaining Computers (another presenter I very much respect).
you wont believe how clutch this is. i just got mine in and set it up but dont have much of an idea of how to use it. im sure this will be helpful. you really helped me how to use my 3d printer.
Wait a minute... is your name Gretchen? Did you rebrand fetch and make it happen? 🤣 (Christ am I old)
Thank you for the best Review of the PROVer3030 i have seen.😍
i been running this machine for a while, overall an excellent well built machine with a decent price tag, however the biggest downside is the weak 300w spindle. For wood they are absoletly fine but for a machine that is this ridge and advertised to cut soft metals it need something alot more. I personally upgraded the spindle to a 1.5kw spindle now can run metal jobs like it nothing even can cut titanium plates at okay ish speed. and it give me the opportunity to run 10mm end mills too with an er16 collet. Overall very happy with the machine very well build just wish it give you an option to buy a better spindle out of the box rather than wasting money on the 300w spindle
Hey I have the same machine what spindle did you upgrade to?
@@ElPossum-r6t i upgraded to a gpenny 1.5kw vfd spindle that come with a er16 collet rather than er11. It aircooled but they do have a water cooled version aswell i jsut cant be bother to setup the water cooling bit so went with air cool. Overall very happy with it can machine metal properly at decent speed
I just found your channel and you do a great job of reviewing machines clear ,honest and straight to the point and very knowledgeable
big W for aurora tech, your review is incredibly detailed . Most don't cover to this extent!
I never knew I needed something like this...but here we are.
Thanks! It gives a good idea of the machine's capability.
Pro tip, you can use hot glue to help secure some of your materials down. Then use ipa to release it.
Always knew that nasty beer had a second use.
Kidding, but not really.
When I was in vocational school to become a machinist my instructor also suggested keeping some good quality double sided tape handy. Just slow things down a little bit and you would be surprised at how well it works for tiny parts.
I've learned so much from your tech channel, thanks for your in depth reviews ☺👍🏻
Nice video. I'm impressed by the improvements they made to this type of CNC.
Great informative review. One thing I think that you may not have thought of during the spindle testing. In the 300watt spindle you used a 1/8” end mill with a 1/8” shank. When using the Makita router motor you used a 1/8 end mill with a 1/4” shank providing a stiffer tool to begin with skewing the results somewhat. You should have used a the same 1/8 end mill with a 1/4” shank in bath spindles. The ER-11 spindle can accept a 1/4” ER-11 collet. I don’t think the 309watt spindle would have preformed as well as the more powerful Makita but do believe there would be a noticeable improvement in surface finish.
another great review.
Thank you.
Hey there, with the Makita running at 4.5 the RPM is 25.000, so you roughly double the speed with the same gCode. More power, double speed, of course the gCode makes it easy, but it only shows the obvious evidence. To be fair and allow people to see the real difference between the 300w spindle and the wood router, you should have double the feed and speed of the gCode for the Makita (or divided by two the feed and speed of the Spindle's gCode or set the speed of the Makita to position 2) making parameters somehow equivalent.
For your information, the optimal parameters for your 1/8"carbide bit in 6061 amuminium should be something like:
_ 0.2in (5mm) depth of cut, so the bit should allow you to cut into you 0.125in (3.125mm) plate in one easy pass considering the 1.5hp of the router.
_ 6370 RPM (Makita's speed 1 is 10.000rpm, not suitable for cutting aluminium)
_ 15.3in.mn (388mm.mn) - BUT should be raised with the Makita to 23in.mn (610mm.mn) because of the 10.000 RPM.
Can the machine stands it ? If yes, what about the cut quality ?
Hello can you make a video on how to set the probe up. My 3030 stabed the probe
i'm sold!!! gonna buy one of these.. THX!
Thankyou very helpful in my decision to buy one.
love the cnc videos. thank you
YEEEEE! Thank you for the review
It will probably take an extraordinary amount of time to do this but... are you guys planning on putting together a Milo V1.5? I'd be curious how a DIY bridgeport CNC mill compares to these kit gantry CNCs.
Hi firstly thank you for you video. It really helped.
But can I please ask did you experience any problems with the y axis not allowing the full working area of 300mm x 300mm being directly over the bed .... mine runs some 15mm short of the back of the bed . This obviously hangs over the front of the bed. So when working at a full 300 x 300 it is causes problems ..... do you know if anyone else has reported this and is there a fix for it ?
Great review as usual 👍
Time to invest in a dust shoe and a shop vac to get rid of all those crumbs before they fly everywhere. 😀 They make one that fits this 3030 perfectly.
This side of the industry sorely needs someone like Bambu to just come in and do a lot of common sense things and more. This pace of yearly improvements is embarrassing.
15:30 I think you've just sold anyone watching this on buying a Makita Router. 😆
Querida Aurora,cuál sería la mejor opción para adquirir una mini cnc mill con opción de quemado láser que sea asequible para iniciar a realizar prácticas,gracias por sus recomendaciones...su programa es fenomenal 👍
Nice video. Here's a few tips. You would get better results if the materials are mounted directly on to a solid surface. This will result in less chatter.
Next time try the same cuts with a single flute up cut bit and set the milling to a convenientional cut.
How would you compare it with Carvera Air? Thanks
good videos as always.
a small thing regarding operation and execution of milling of workpiece. using air assist or adding liquid (alcohol) when milling helps.
another thing is when you have to mill, you use a scrubber mill for all the rough and finish milling at the end with a slower feed and you mill clockwise as white as possible so the endmill has to do the job.
another thing I saw was when you milled in wood that it does not move in the same constant movement around the object but constantly changes speed, can it be selected differently or is it in the software. ????
any chance you can make a video of it cutting into stronger steel ? maybe with another spinder and if possible in combination with the rotary axis 🙏
if i plan to work with brass on this machine, i dont understand how the makita router will be more precise than standard spindle?
Excellent review, as usual. I particularly appreciated you recent review on the Sovol SV08. Will you be doing one on the Peopoly Magneto X?
I don't have any plans for that machine yet as my review schedule is fully booked until September, but let's see.
@@AuroraTech Ahh, that's a pity. I am interested in what you would make of it's linear motors and it's 3 micron X-Y accuracy. However, I look forward to what you show us between now and then. Many thanks!
Do we need any special software?
I would really like to see a review of the Genmitsu 710W trim router with ER11 chuck vs. the Makita router on this machine.
What are some good programs I could use? (For beginners)
Hi Can it cut 2mm stainless steel?
I watch to hear her say "today....."
its "Tuhday"
@@warmfreeze 😆
Same, i enjoy the intro more than the actual full reviews...😂
Hello! Tell me please! full PETG printing settings.On the Advenchurer 5M Pro printer
There is a V2 of this out. It has a number of improvements.
so, im confused. how do i take a g code from a software, and tell the machine where to start, using the offline controller? and , is the offline controller capable of doing multiple finishes with different bits?
It could also be the 300w spindle with the collet has too much runout under load, Makita router is probably much better built to handle sideloading.
My cheap machine with a similar 500w motor could not do profiling cuts at 0.3mm DOC in aluminium when I got it, now it can do 1-2mm easily as its only driving a separate spindle through a belt drive, same or less power but a more rigid spindle. It even handles milling steel now to a point.
Great review.
Another great review by Aurora Tech. You did not mention the RPM of the Makita router, do you know what it was? Thanks again.
1=10,000
2=12,000
3=17,000
4=22,000
5=27,000
6=30,000
So, I guess 4.5 is something around 25k. Some users actually measured it:
discuss.inventables.com/t/makita-rt0700c-variable-speed-chart/30922/2
Great review as always. Sad though to see no shipping to Canada. 😥
Looks like Amazon Canada has it. 😊
i notice aurora growing faster ....she's getting much cuter day after day 😍 ALSO the quality of the videos and reviews getting more and more better 😍🥰 so proud of u 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
Can this plug directly into a PC and run with Candle? Or is the offline controller the only option?
Yes, you can connect it to your company to use candle or ugs if you prefer.
@@AuroraTech
Thank you for taking the time to respond! I'm thinking of buying one.
how would one upgrade the motor to nema 23 with an adapter plate ? how to change stepper current ?
The drivers for the steppers probably would not support the current for the bigger motors, so you would have to change those too.
If they are integrated or it doesnt have outputs for signals for an external driver you might have to buy new drivers or a controller too
Great review. In my opinion, these desktop CNC machines will never become mills unless their frame is made with steel instead of aluminum extrusions. I would call them soft metal engravers at most but not milling machines. The good thing is that they are not advertised as mills but i just wanted to clarify that.
👍🏻👍🏻
Are any desktop machines capable of machining mild steel?
I tried on the Carvera Air at 0.05mm step down, it worked but super slow. But that machine is even more rigid.
ua-cam.com/video/vAV5WsRQpy4/v-deo.html
Mini cnc ve lazer makinesi arıyorum sizde varsa bana fiyatı ne olur
thats a lot of chatter. I bet a higher feed rate might fix that
I love your videos, but please, at least you say it correctly... ALUMINIUM !!! please...
Aluminium Or Aluminum: Is There A Correct Choice?
www.dictionary.com/e/aluminum-or-aluminium/#
@@AuroraTech it is Aluminium :)
Aluminum is a made up American word :)
It used to be pronounced Aluminum in the UK which we took the the US then we changed to come in line with other metals.