My favorite part of the comments telling you to use disconnects on the powercon connections is those are the only powercons I have ever had fail. the soldered ones are still happy as can be.
just a quick note incase you weren't aware (since you referred to the screws as "six thirty-seconds" or 6/32), 6-32 screws means #6 screw with 32 threads per inch. A #6 screw is actually 9/64" in diameter, a 6/32" diameter screw would be a #10.
@@billylaguardia You do know they still sell good old neon pilot lights? Have been using dozens of those lately in several new designs I am working on for a company that makes power distributors in all sizes and shapes.
there are more mistakes. powercon is not a solder connector... the powercon should be in the panel, not outside (you can rip it out now if somebody trips over the cable. soo yeah some doddy stuff here....
@@hubertwouts disconnects can work their way loose in portable systems. Especially when a cable loom is associated as it adds weight to the disconnect. This distro will hang upside down in a Pelican case which will be shipped UPS. Soldering is a guaranteed connection. I front mount Powercons, in certain instances Gen 1 Powercon release tabs can interfere with the screws. The structural integrity of the jack is the same front/rear mounted.
@@billylaguardia it'd be worth diving into USB power ratings because if i'm not mistaken, the USB-A connector has a much lower power rating and with a properly designed charger, it should be always limited to slow charge. And well there's always the option that chargers don't follow the USB standard too which is likely the case if they allow more than 10W over USB-A
@@ledoynier3694 hmmm…further research is indeed needed. I know the Leviton outlets are “smart”. I’ve used them for all kinds of things like video format converters, cameras, battery chargers etc…without a problem. I also use them internally here at LM to charge our shop iPads without a problem. Again, I just assumed A to C was a simple pin swap. That being said, now I’m curious…
@@ledoynier3694 from what i recall you absolutley can do over 30 watts through a A port as thats covered in the usb PD spec how is the confusing part i havnt looked into i know that upto 30 watts the device must see a certain configuration of resistors across the data lines but pd involves negotiation with the charger because the charger can deliver 5v 9v 12v and 20v but the device has to tell the charger to do so but again i believe this takes place again over the data lines but again im not compleatly sure i did do some googling over this and some say it was possible in pd 1 spec but got quickly discouraged because it could cause situations where adjacent ports would be negotiated into 20v mode and would fry the devices on those ports example plugging a samsung phone and a older gen iphone into the same brick might cause the samsung device to request 9v mode and kill the iphone suposedly it is possible though through bfsk id go deeper in but lets be honest its the USB spec which is both a standard and not a standard at the same time and no matter how much they try to make it a standard they let intigrators do whatever they want and they make all sorts of backwards forwards and non compatible side standards and pick and choose what they will and wont support which is largley why we have the issue we have today with not every C cable being the same but itll all be fixed in usb 4 wait no it wont because theyve already said oems can pick and choose what features they do and dont wanna support via the usb 4 standard at this rate ill just be happy if my phone charges at all
Nice to see you mixing Powercons with Circuit Breaking Capacity with ones that are not CBC. Old stock? On the back mounting: Shame on you for not having the right hardware! Pop rivets work great for that! Going on 25 years of experience with that.... And why on earth would you solder and then crimp? That's doing things with those products that they aren't designed for. No bonding of the metal parts? You would fail inspection over here in the Netherlands. Just being honest....
Ahh my favorite Dutch electrician has returned. Hey Richard! Yes, I am still exhausting old stock on my blue Powercon jacks I use more outputs than inputs. Front mounting vs back mounting on the jacks? I like my Torx screws. I'll keep front mounting the jacks. Pop rivets are fine. The only problem with using a rivet is you have to drill it out should you need access to the box vs using a simple Phillips screwdriver. I dont really need to bond the chassis on this as each of the outlet ground straps touch the chassis which bonds the chassis to the receptacle which thusly bonds it to the rack rail which is mounted into non conductive plastic. As luck would have it, this box will remain stateside, so no need for a Dutch inspection. Next time I am in the Low Countries, I'll give you a heads up so you can fix my work. See ya on the next vid!
@@billylaguardia You Yanks with your ground straps on outlets... Here everything is isolated so when metal comes into play in like housings it needs to bonded. Screws all need to be isolated with caps or replaced with plastic screws. It is the UA-cam Comment Section so I was in the right place. But you can also turn things around and gather information on what kind of requirements your gear needs to meet should it go to Europe. I admit that I have learned a lot on foreign electrics from watching videos by qualified electricians from around the globe. Nothing bad with that. I also try to sort of encourage you to come up with a more consistent way of working and doing things. Because you also have done without the crimping and go full Wago with this project. Would have been easier and quicker. Or terminal strips. See where I am getting at? And to be honest: Only time I had to drill out pop rivets was when someone used cheaper XLR connectors which broke. But trust me on the soldering/crimping combo.
My favorite part of the comments telling you to use disconnects on the powercon connections is those are the only powercons I have ever had fail. the soldered ones are still happy as can be.
Oh Lucas...dont be gaslit by your own experience. Trust the comments section, they know best.
just a quick note incase you weren't aware (since you referred to the screws as "six thirty-seconds" or 6/32), 6-32 screws means #6 screw with 32 threads per inch. A #6 screw is actually 9/64" in diameter, a 6/32" diameter screw would be a #10.
Great video. I would prefer to add some kind of Power LED/Light to the unit that should tell me that the unit is powered or not. Great stuff Billy!
Ahh that would be cool! I didn't think of that!
@@billylaguardia You do know they still sell good old neon pilot lights?
Have been using dozens of those lately in several new designs I am working on for a company that makes power distributors in all sizes and shapes.
I thought you weren't meant to crimp soldered connections?
apart from that nice build
Hello question for you in the Box is it metal if so watching your wire you don't need a ground for the Box ?
there are more mistakes. powercon is not a solder connector... the powercon should be in the panel, not outside (you can rip it out now if somebody trips over the cable.
soo yeah some doddy stuff here....
The outlets are not isolated. They are grounded via each mount strap which bonds them to the chassis.
@@hubertwouts disconnects can work their way loose in portable systems. Especially when a cable loom is associated as it adds weight to the disconnect. This distro will hang upside down in a Pelican case which will be shipped UPS. Soldering is a guaranteed connection. I front mount Powercons, in certain instances Gen 1 Powercon release tabs can interfere with the screws. The structural integrity of the jack is the same front/rear mounted.
@@billylaguardia sorry but no excusses for not following rules. next time you tell me it costs to much to get the right wire crimps... 🤣
@@billylaguardia not even close buddy
nylock appreciation day
Nylocksss 4 lyfe. (Don’t tell keps nuts)
10/10 for lame intro with dad jokes
Aren't you dramatically losing watts by not using USBC native? Most iPads can charge at 20+ watts.
If speed is not important, using a non-fast charger means the battery gets charged at a lower amperage, prolonging the battery lifespan long-term.
Nope. Not worried at all. Its a 4.2 amp rated receptacle. Each port can run at 25 watts. As far as I know USB A to C is just a pin swap.
@@billylaguardia it'd be worth diving into USB power ratings because if i'm not mistaken, the USB-A connector has a much lower power rating and with a properly designed charger, it should be always limited to slow charge. And well there's always the option that chargers don't follow the USB standard too which is likely the case if they allow more than 10W over USB-A
@@ledoynier3694 hmmm…further research is indeed needed. I know the Leviton outlets are “smart”. I’ve used them for all kinds of things like video format converters, cameras, battery chargers etc…without a problem. I also use them internally here at LM to charge our shop iPads without a problem. Again, I just assumed A to C was a simple pin swap. That being said, now I’m curious…
@@ledoynier3694 from what i recall you absolutley can do over 30 watts through a A port as thats covered in the usb PD spec how is the confusing part i havnt looked into i know that upto 30 watts the device must see a certain configuration of resistors across the data lines
but pd involves negotiation with the charger because the charger can deliver 5v 9v 12v and 20v but the device has to tell the charger to do so but again i believe this takes place again over the data lines
but again im not compleatly sure i did do some googling over this and some say it was possible in pd 1 spec but got quickly discouraged because it could cause situations where adjacent ports would be negotiated into 20v mode and would fry the devices on those ports example plugging a samsung phone and a older gen iphone into the same brick might cause the samsung device to request 9v mode and kill the iphone
suposedly it is possible though through bfsk
id go deeper in but lets be honest its the USB spec which is both a standard and not a standard at the same time and no matter how much they try to make it a standard they let intigrators do whatever they want and they make all sorts of backwards forwards and non compatible side standards and pick and choose what they will and wont support which is largley why we have the issue we have today with not every C cable being the same
but itll all be fixed in usb 4 wait no it wont because theyve already said oems can pick and choose what features they do and dont wanna support via the usb 4 standard
at this rate ill just be happy if my phone charges at all
Nice to see you mixing Powercons with Circuit Breaking Capacity with ones that are not CBC.
Old stock?
On the back mounting:
Shame on you for not having the right hardware!
Pop rivets work great for that! Going on 25 years of experience with that....
And why on earth would you solder and then crimp? That's doing things with those products that they aren't designed for.
No bonding of the metal parts?
You would fail inspection over here in the Netherlands.
Just being honest....
Ahh my favorite Dutch electrician has returned. Hey Richard! Yes, I am still exhausting old stock on my blue Powercon jacks I use more outputs than inputs. Front mounting vs back mounting on the jacks? I like my Torx screws. I'll keep front mounting the jacks. Pop rivets are fine. The only problem with using a rivet is you have to drill it out should you need access to the box vs using a simple Phillips screwdriver. I dont really need to bond the chassis on this as each of the outlet ground straps touch the chassis which bonds the chassis to the receptacle which thusly bonds it to the rack rail which is mounted into non conductive plastic. As luck would have it, this box will remain stateside, so no need for a Dutch inspection. Next time I am in the Low Countries, I'll give you a heads up so you can fix my work. See ya on the next vid!
@@billylaguardia You Yanks with your ground straps on outlets...
Here everything is isolated so when metal comes into play in like housings it needs to bonded. Screws all need to be isolated with caps or replaced with plastic screws.
It is the UA-cam Comment Section so I was in the right place. But you can also turn things around and gather information on what kind of requirements your gear needs to meet should it go to Europe. I admit that I have learned a lot on foreign electrics from watching videos by qualified electricians from around the globe. Nothing bad with that.
I also try to sort of encourage you to come up with a more consistent way of working and doing things. Because you also have done without the crimping and go full Wago with this project. Would have been easier and quicker. Or terminal strips. See where I am getting at?
And to be honest:
Only time I had to drill out pop rivets was when someone used cheaper XLR connectors which broke.
But trust me on the soldering/crimping combo.