Thank you for this! It's tremendously generous of you to take the time and make the effort to share your expertise and I'm very much obliged! exactly the information that I was looking for.
Thank you. I learned long ago the only wealth I really care about is what I know and what I can do with it. Unlike physical wealth it gains value from being shared, and dies with you if hoarded.
I know I’m a bit late. But my hook broke your video was kinda helpful. I got the 2 set screws out and that little metal arm bit my hook still won’t come off is there a special alignment I need or do I just need some elbow grease? Hope you can help mine won’t come off at all. I even tried some machine oil but won’t budge.
Do you have the hook that uses two set screws or three? I know that sounds kind of lame but if you have the three screw model, when you have it in a position where you can reach two of them the third one is sort of hidden.
@@DakotahMiskus Ok, if you have loosened the screws and the hook is still tight on the shaft it is stuck for some reason. Unless the machine has been used as a boat anchor it probably isn't rust, more likely old oil that has dried to something like glue.. Completely remove the set screws and apply penetrating oil in the holes and around the base of the hook. Let it soak, preferably at least overnight, longer is better. Get a good grip on the hook and jog the handwheel forward and back rapidly. If that doesn't break it loose we may have to go for something more aggressive.
hey Joe, I I hate to be a pain but I still cannot find the shuttle and bobbin case for the conversion. I reached out to central Michigan sewing supply and the want to know if it is a 20u33 or 20u13? Is there anyway to send me a link or let me know? I got the hirose hook assembly but i cannot find the other parts and I'm working on converting 2 of these. Thank you so much for your help
Singer 52089 I believe the Hirose equivalent is a DA1-A but I no longer have the parts box or machine I installed it in. I just found a Hirose TA1-Z16 which seems to be their number for a 306 hook.
I haven't worked on a walking foot machine so I couldn't even guess what would be involved. Somebody had to do it the first time so it may be possible. I just have no experience with it.
I took a quick look but all you have on the machine is numbered individual parts. To find a number for an assembly you need to check the parts list in the manual.
I realize I have another question and that is whether or not a 319 bobbin case will fit the 95-10 hook assembly? I know you use a 20u bobbin case with the 95 hook assembly, so really what I'm asking is whether I can continue to use my 319 bobbin case if I swap my hook assembly for a 95-10 assembly or do I need to use a class 95 bobbin case?
I can't be 100% certain on the 95-10. It's the short arm version of the 96-10 that I am familiar with. The bobbin/case/shuttle/hook assembly is made up of nested pieces. Some combinations fit, others do not. Combinations that may fit together physically may not play nice. Short answer? It depends. I'm currently prepping two 306's for sale while getting the third one set up for my personal use. Keep checking back for more video.
I've done it both ways. I had an extra finger I filed down on the left side until it had clearance for the narrow notch and opened up another one with a Dremel to take the standard finger. Either way you need to have enough clearance for the heaviest thread you use to slip past the end of the finger. No sharp edges. Of the two, I'd rather modify a new manufacture shuttle than a original part that might be hard to replace if I mess it up.
@@joekahno top is round. Not flat. 15x1. Also the needle is slightly shorter from top to the scarf/eye, like hair thickness. From the scarf/eye to tip like 2 mill shorter. I use size 16 or 100 and works very well sewing 8 layers denim. Have set gap on the scarf though. I changed the needle bar on my juki to 135mm. I was left with 16 x 257 needles of all sizes. I did the bobbin case and hook assembly upgrade. Had to modify the hook assembly Slightly. Still touches on far right a bit. Other wise works ok. I have 2nd singer 306k in much better condition. Standard bobbin case and hook assembly and also just touches when sewing on right side. 🤷♂️. I can zig zag for miles. So I think it's OK.
Can you tell me the part number and brand or where you got the 20-U shuttle and bobbin? Also, can you tell me where you get your Hirose parts? Thank you
Try ebay. The stock hook assembly for the 306 is a Hirose TA1-Z16 The 20U bobbin case is available from several vendors. Standard L class commercial bobbins will work if you have a separate bobbin winder. The closest thing to Singer OEM bobbins are at Central Michigan sewing supply. www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/6-aluminum-bobbins-singer-part-55623aq?_pos=1&_sid=d1c5177b4&_ss=r These are expensive but work fairly well with the bobbin winder on the machine.
@@joekahno thank you it has been hard because when i search 20-u shuttle it does not bring back results or it says singer 15 class +shuttle and I do not know if that is the same thing?
@@caseywilkinson1825 That's because the internal part of the hook assembly, the piece with the post the bobbin case latches onto, is sometimes called a shuttle. If you search for "20u bobbin case" they're not hard to find. Finding a good one is a little harder. Most of them are Chinese imports, some are pretty good, others are junk and the price doesn't seem to mean much.
Excellent!!!!??
Thank you so much I had to search and search for how to take this out.
Had to work on my Mother's 306K. The shuttle froze to the hook assembly. I got it apart and back together with the help of your video. Thank you.
Excellent explanation of how to maintain the SINGER 306 Sewing Machine.
Thank you for this! It's tremendously generous of you to take the time and make the effort to share your expertise and I'm very much obliged! exactly the information that I was looking for.
Thank you. I learned long ago the only wealth I really care about is what I know and what I can do with it. Unlike physical wealth it gains value from being shared, and dies with you if hoarded.
I know I’m a bit late. But my hook broke your video was kinda helpful. I got the 2 set screws out and that little metal arm bit my hook still won’t come off is there a special alignment I need or do I just need some elbow grease? Hope you can help mine won’t come off at all. I even tried some machine oil but won’t budge.
Do you have the hook that uses two set screws or three? I know that sounds kind of lame but if you have the three screw model, when you have it in a position where you can reach two of them the third one is sort of hidden.
@@joekahno I’m sorry I just saw your reply. No I was double and triple checking. It only has 2 screws.
@@DakotahMiskus Ok, if you have loosened the screws and the hook is still tight on the shaft it is stuck for some reason. Unless the machine has been used as a boat anchor it probably isn't rust, more likely old oil that has dried to something like glue.. Completely remove the set screws and apply penetrating oil in the holes and around the base of the hook. Let it soak, preferably at least overnight, longer is better. Get a good grip on the hook and jog the handwheel forward and back rapidly. If that doesn't break it loose we may have to go for something more aggressive.
hey Joe, I I hate to be a pain but I still cannot find the shuttle and bobbin case for the conversion. I reached out to central Michigan sewing supply and the want to know if it is a 20u33 or 20u13? Is there anyway to send me a link or let me know? I got the hirose hook assembly but i cannot find the other parts and I'm working on converting 2 of these. Thank you so much for your help
Hi, I was wondering what’s the part number of the 96-10 hook from Hirose? Thanks!
Singer 52089 I believe the Hirose equivalent is a DA1-A but I no longer have the parts box or machine I installed it in. I just found a Hirose TA1-Z16 which seems to be their number for a 306 hook.
I undid those three screws and the finger and the hook will not come off... any ideas?
Never mind, I heated it up and it is moving now.
well, we need detailed explanation. i dont know what and how you adjust there
can you add a walking foot bar to these machine the patnet are very similar for most of there machines
I haven't worked on a walking foot machine so I couldn't even guess what would be involved. Somebody had to do it the first time so it may be possible. I just have no experience with it.
@@joekahno on my 306 it seem to have a bigger hook an bobbing case already in there
do you stil have this machine can you check what part number the needle bar assembly is
I took a quick look but all you have on the machine is numbered individual parts. To find a number for an assembly you need to check the parts list in the manual.
@@joekahno i know what part mine is .... simanco 150169 needle bar 105186 im sure you bar for the needle is bigger ??? maybe
I realize I have another question and that is whether or not a 319 bobbin case will fit the 95-10 hook assembly? I know you use a 20u bobbin case with the 95 hook assembly, so really what I'm asking is whether I can continue to use my 319 bobbin case if I swap my hook assembly for a 95-10 assembly or do I need to use a class 95 bobbin case?
I can't be 100% certain on the 95-10. It's the short arm version of the 96-10 that I am familiar with. The bobbin/case/shuttle/hook assembly is made up of nested pieces. Some combinations fit, others do not. Combinations that may fit together physically may not play nice. Short answer? It depends. I'm currently prepping two 306's for sale while getting the third one set up for my personal use. Keep checking back for more video.
Trying to figure out how to align the finger properly. And also trying to figure out how to notch out the case for it.
I've done it both ways. I had an extra finger I filed down on the left side until it had clearance for the narrow notch and opened up another one with a Dremel to take the standard finger. Either way you need to have enough clearance for the heaviest thread you use to slip past the end of the finger. No sharp edges. Of the two, I'd rather modify a new manufacture shuttle than a original part that might be hard to replace if I mess it up.
Vedi uno che lavora da lontano. Utilità???
Grazie
Ditch those needles and go with juki needle. Works way better.
I did a quick check. Juki is usually sold with Organ needle installed. The same brand I use.
@@joekahno top is round. Not flat. 15x1. Also the needle is slightly shorter from top to the scarf/eye, like hair thickness. From the scarf/eye to tip like 2 mill shorter. I use size 16 or 100 and works very well sewing 8 layers denim. Have set gap on the scarf though. I changed the needle bar on my juki to 135mm. I was left with 16 x 257 needles of all sizes. I did the bobbin case and hook assembly upgrade. Had to modify the hook assembly Slightly. Still touches on far right a bit. Other wise works ok. I have 2nd singer 306k in much better condition. Standard bobbin case and hook assembly and also just touches when sewing on right side. 🤷♂️. I can zig zag for miles. So I think it's OK.
Can you tell me the part number and brand or where you got the 20-U shuttle and bobbin? Also, can you tell me where you get your Hirose parts? Thank you
Try ebay. The stock hook assembly for the 306 is a Hirose TA1-Z16 The 20U bobbin case is available from several vendors. Standard L class commercial bobbins will work if you have a separate bobbin winder. The closest thing to Singer OEM bobbins are at Central Michigan sewing supply. www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/6-aluminum-bobbins-singer-part-55623aq?_pos=1&_sid=d1c5177b4&_ss=r These are expensive but work fairly well with the bobbin winder on the machine.
@@joekahno thank you it has been hard because when i search 20-u shuttle it does not bring back results or it says singer 15 class +shuttle and I do not know if that is the same thing?
@@caseywilkinson1825 That's because the internal part of the hook assembly, the piece with the post the bobbin case latches onto, is sometimes called a shuttle. If you search for "20u bobbin case" they're not hard to find. Finding a good one is a little harder. Most of them are Chinese imports, some are pretty good, others are junk and the price doesn't seem to mean much.