FORGING MY FIRST CHISEL, EPIC WIN OR FAIL?
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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Sometimes even the Samurai Carpenter gets tired of woodworking and needs to try something new. As far as I know there aren't any Samurai Blacksmiths so why not?
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Hey Samurai! I'm a Bladesmith as well :) specializing in 1095/W1 &W2 blades. Get a magnifying glass out and look at your edge, I'm betting you have microfissures from quenching to hot in water. If you do have microfissures/fractures you can grind them out and re Heat treat. Normalize 3x. 1600F / 1550f / 1500f on your fourth trip back up put a "coke line" (for lack of a better term) of kosher salt on your chizel top. Kosher salt is almost pure Sodium Chloride. which melts at 1475F (the optimal quench temp for 1095.) When the salt starts to melts fast, give it a count of 3, pull and quench. Water is fine but be warned if you hear a ping it's ruined! I would recommend buying a proper quench oil like Houghton or Parks 50, Afterwards, Run dont walk, to your preheated temper oven and temper at 500 for 2 - 2hour cycles. allowing to cool out side of the oven to ambient after each cycle. Hope this helps :)
Nice clear instructions/information. Comments need to be more like this.
It appeared to me that it was yellow to whit hot when he quenched it. Needs to be in the orange range, too hot will cause grain growth which will attribute to cracking and chipping.
I was going to add that too but thought it may come out as information overload. You're right though. Heat is both your friend and your enemy in smithing. normalizing 3x will reset the grain to an appropriately small grain size.
Why would you normalize it 3 times? at 1600 F, the steel is already Austenitic... "In theory".
I never really had a clear answer.
You know what makes the builder is the way he keeps his shop and his tools. Great work!
nice first chisel! if you re-tempered that hot and the issue persisted it may be from the hardening stage...the quench looked a bit hot for file steel in the video but could just be the camera...could pull off the handle, triple normalize starting *just* at non-magnetic and slightly lower each successive one and then try yaki-ire again...check with a magnet and get it on the way up just at non-magnetic then into the water (warm for safety but should be fine either way)...bonus points if you grind the ura a bit hollow before yakiire ^___^
One problem that could’ve caused the chisel to be too brittle is the normalizing cycle, it’s hard to say because sometimes the heat colors show up different on camera, so I could be completely wrong. But that normalizing cycle looked way too hot.
The point of normalizing is not only to relieve stress but to control the grain structure of the steel, to make it as fine as possible. Finer grain = stronger steel, course grain = weak steel (liable to chip or crack).
As you heat steel in the lower heats the grain is shrinking, but once you pass a certain temperature the grain begins rapidly growing. So in normalizing it’s crucially important you don’t overheat the steel. I’d say an exact temperature but unless you have a super expensive laser thermometer it wouldn’t do you any good. Generally the critical temperature is around a cherry red in low light, or when the steel becomes non-magnetic. (This same temperature is also what you should harden at)
There are a couple of experiments you can do to observe this effect better, since it’s kinda invisible and can feel like magic on a normal piece you’re working on.
The first would be the break test. Take an old file, heat it up to forging temps, and air cool, then harden it, and break it. Then take a piece of the same file and try normalizing it, heating it up to cherry red and letting air cool (repeating this process will make the grain even finer), then harden and break just like the first piece, should be harder to break too. On the broken ends you’ll be able to see the internal grain of the steel and see what difference it made.
The other test is to observe the phase change in the crystal structure as it cools down to show you the correct temperature for normalizing (this also happens heating up but it’s easier to see when cooling down). Take a thin piece of steel with somewhat large surfaces, say a scrap of 1/8 sheet. Heat it up good and hot. Then in low light pull it out of the fire and watch it air cool. You should see at one point in the cooling the steel will actually flash hotter again for a moment, this is the crystal structure of the steel shifting from one form to another releasing energy. It’s that shift you want to avoid passing when heating to normalize.
Disclaimer: this is all dumbed down and unscientific to make it easier to grasp.
Broadus Thompson look out everyone, a comment added by someone who may know what they are talking about. Please ignore this and take the aimless conjecture as interweb fact!
It looks great and enjoy the journey of learning. I am grateful for your work and thank you for sharing.
I'm sure you didn't become the awesome woodworker today without a few failures in the past. Same thing with forging tools. You will get there because you are not a quitter. Looking forward as always to the next video!
Love that design.
Hand Tool Rescue your videos are so weirdly satisfying. Keep it up!
Hey Mr Samurai, I know you're probably busy with the school thing you've got going on. But I just wanted to drop you a line and let you know that we've been missing you over here on the UA-cams...
It looks amazing and you are taking your first steps into blacksmithing. We crawl before we walk but you will be running in no time Samurai.
Awesome to see you trying something new. Always good to expand your horizons.
Try heat treating in the fires of Mount doom. Watch out for tricky Hobbits trying to sneak in
Aren't you buddies with Alec Steele? I have an inkling he could lend a clue..
Justin Medhat What makes you think this ?
Justin Medhat I watch both guys, love them both but have never seen anything to indicate this. Guess I'm not apart of the inside circle lol
Justin Medhat what
You sure you aren't confusing this with the whole Sam Fowler thing?
Justin Medhat pmsl who told you that 😂
I'm gonna call this a definite win dude. You produced a beautiful tool. What didn't work can be fixed. You grew your brain. WIN!
Hello, thanks for sharing! I made some laminated chisels with low carbon steel SAE 1045 and high carbon steel SAE 1080. This combination brings very good results, the blade has no damage.
Great job, I think you should not get discouraged, it's just these small setbacks that should reinforce your learning. Greetings from Chile
More shop organization videos please. I have a tough time with proper storage ideas. What works for you?
Samurai!! Love that you are attempting making your own chisel. Elnyne already gave you such a good answer down below so there's not much I can add. Maybe when my channel get's a bit bigger we can do a collaboration. I'll probably come over to the island in the coming months so I'll send you a message when I have firm plans and see if you're interested.
So since you clearly need more advice....my brother is a hobby knife maker and he helped me make a crank neck chisel. One thing he did was not grind the bevel all the way until after the temper cycle. The sharp point in the heat/temper process can get cooked. You might try a cool way to grind back the metal an 1/8" or so, and see if it is any stronger there. Maybe even just 1/16" would do. He left about a 1/16" flat on mine when we made it, then had to grind that back to a point after the whole heat treat process. So far so good.
-Brian
Hey Jessie, use oil for the quench. Can use canola or even vegetable oil if you can't get any parks 50. Warm the oil up first, then do the quench. When you temper, just go for the "straw" color, don't go all the way to blue/violet. I have never made a chisel, but you could maybe try doing just an edge hardening, leaving the rest nice and soft.
Its all the the quench medium, a high speed oil will get you the results you're looking for. And doing at least 3 normalizing cycles will help get you a more fine and consistent grain structure when it comes to the finished hardened steel (a better performing cutting edge). You're absolutely right about the mistakes we make, and also you did really well to forge weld it all together, all in all mate I would say you did very well for your first attempt.
I’m super excited you picked up blacksmithing! Not surprised but, excited! Excellent way to make your own tooling totally pimped out.
You should try a few normalizing cycles so the steel particles can align again. Because of heavy forging they’re all over the place, and cause stress within the chisel. The rest of the process is great. Nice looking chisel!
The thing that impressed me most, funnily enough, is that you want to have a crack forging your own chisel and you happen to have all the forging tools. Gas forge, tongs, anvil, big-arse hammer etc. plus a Mig Welder to make things easier. Have you been collecting this stuff for a rainy day or what? Can I have some details on your sharpening setup? I really like it...
Great video like always. I saw several issues. First, 1095 is an oil quench steel. I’ve snapped knives in half trying to quench them in water. Second, 400 degrees is the low end of 1095’s temper temperature and will result in harder but still fairly brittle steel. Lastly, 1095 is my favorite knife steel, but it is a poor steel for something that will take a lot of shock. O1 tool steel would be a better choice. Thanks again for the video. I very much enjoyed watching it. Can’t wait to see the next project.
if you learned anything from this. It could not have been a fail! love your stuff. Thank you.
Pretty neat project especially it being your first attempt. A couple of thoughts from somebody who does not know much. On several of my Japanese chisels the first time I used them the edges chipped but after sharpening them a few times they seemed to do much better. The other thought would be to take the handle off and re-temper it and see what happens. Good luck and thanks for sharing the video.
One thing I was taught for tool making is always try to dip it as evenly as possible, as metal cools it shrinks and if you submerge the part sideways it can warp slightly, it may not be important on most stuff you do but it's a good habit to be in
I loved your beautiful failure video bro, that's what being a maker is all about. we should all have the balls to try new things and fail. thanks for sharing!
Cool chisel, especially for the first one!
maybe the camera shows the temperature wrong, but it looked as if you hardened the steel too hot.
I use a magnet for testing the quenching temperature- as soon as it doesn't stick its ready to quench.
i think i see what went wrong, although i am not 100% because it is hard to see on camera.
How hot was the steel when you quenched it? For the perfect quench you need to heat the steel to a orange glow (the same orange color as the fruit orange).
If you quench it hotter than that, you get hardened but weakened result, but
If you quench it cooler than that it won't do anything at all.
this is why smiths often quench in dark rooms, so they can better see the exact color of the glow.
From what i could see, you quenched it way hotter than a orange glow (then again ,may have been the camera). And because of that it created unwanted stress in the steel. You also might want to hold it still in the water, moving it around also cooled it down faster than needed.
Your quench was likely too aggressive. 1095 is typically oil quenched in the cross section you are dealing with. The description of "crumbling" is also a good indicator of quench cracking. It's not a hardness issue it's a hardenability issue.
Its hard to tell from the video because the heat of the steel doesn't translate well through a camera lense, but it is possible that you may have overheated the steel before the quench causing some problematic grain growth. This weakens the structure of the steel while still achieving hardness. Did you do any normalizing cycles before quenching to relieve stress and also shrink the grain? I wouldn't call it a loss yet. if you can remove the handle you can run the chisel through a few sub-critical normalizing cycles (3 is usually enough) to shrink the grain. Harden again, but this time just above a non-magnetic temp. It's slightly different for all steel types. Temper as you did before, but try 2-3 cycles to ensure a thorough temper and test it again. Let us know! Good luck! Hope this helps.
Jesse, the chisel looks great nice design, Just remember you cannot be an expert at everything. It comes with age you learn to just do what you do best, It is good to try new things but blacksmithing is an art like you are a Great carpenter. Good luck & God Bless
I applaud you for trying something new, thanks for the video and don't give up!!!
Another thing as many have said (but didn’t explain) is the quenching medium. Although 1095 does call for a water quench generally, it isn’t absolute. The quenchant a steel calls for is based on the rate of cooling, but the rate cooling isn’t purely dictated by the quenchant but also the thermal mass of the piece being quenched.
So on thinner pieces because they cool faster 1095 should be oil quenched. Though your chisel looks like it’s just on the verge of being big enough to be water quenched so it’s hard to say that was a major mistake. Though oil may have resulted in the chisel that wasn’t crazy super hard.
Dang! A carpenter and a blacksmith. Very impressive! Keep up the great content!
Inspirational, Jesse. Keep on keeping on.
Your aesthetic technique is superb. I won’t make a comment on the edge but I hope you get it right soon. Great job. And btw this is the first video I’ve commented on of yours. And as I was typing this the video was ending. No negative comments here. Keep the content coming. Also like the style this video was shot/cut...
Try quenching in heated quench oil. You don't want to cool all the way down. Quench till it's just too hot to hold then immediately temper it in the oven. Seems your temper process was correct but you may have micro fractures.
"A blacksmith will a good blade win, when he forges thick and files thin."
Try grinding the edge of the chisel back some and see if you can find better metal.
Good video
one empty house, one full workshop... ...this guy has life sorted :)
Keep on going dude! you are an inspiration for woodworkers, specially those in Canada!
It's not a failure as long as you learnt something from it! Look forward to your next one
Easy fix! use a blow torch on the back of the chisel until the cutting edge starts turns a nice golden straw color. then let it air cool. should be good to go! Hope I helped!
I think you could still temper the blade, since you already have the handle on there, i would suggest heating the body of the chisel with a torch and just try to get an even straw/golden color to it. It certainly isn't ideal, but if you can get the metal to that approximate color, the steel could still be tempered. Though if you are willing to take the handle off and remake it, you could simply do that and re-temper in the oven at a higher temperature. I would suggest more like 425-450...with some caution. The color will tell you how far your temper has gone better than an exact number, just go up slowly until you get the desired temper. Usually light straw for a hard edge that is still not too brittle and a darker straw for a more durable blade that has a somewhat softer edge, more prone to deforming rather than breaking when you hit something hard with it. Great work on the forging, it looks amazing!
After reading a couple fairly informed comments and rewatching the video I'd personally narrow it down to material content or the heat treat, quench & temper process.
It's difficult from the footage to get a sense if your anneal step had a long enough soak and a long enough cool off before the heat treat. It is also unclear if your soak before the quench is at the appropriate temp and time.
I'm not gonna turn this into a treatise in metallurgy, but there are a few things that can affect how much martensite you transform and how much grain growth there is in the high carbon metal. Both can affect the brittleness of your final product.
One safety tip - put some refractory cement on your ceramic wool and coat it properly - the wool tends to release fibers from the burn - kind of like working in an asbestos factory - VERY unsafe. The cement layer on top of it will prevent this.
Nice work!
You can try to temper it again but to a light blue color. I would heat up a block of metal in forge and then take it out and lay the chisel (mild side down) on top and slowly bring out the temper colors.
Awesome chisel, the twist is a nice touch
I’d definitely try an oil quench as others have suggested, water obviously was to fast,
Good luck man, and thank you for the vid👍
I'm sure it would be fine for softwood! It looks great, good luck on the next one!
A wet towel on the twist part, use some small flame but high heat burnner, such as oxy-propane burnner. Preheat the first 2 or 3 inches to the edge. Start tempering from 3 inches to the edge, watch the colour turn, until it become a bit deeper than what you saw after the oven tempering. DO IT SLOW. Maybe this will help you. Great video.
This is incredible! Even if it was too brittle, the chisel looked awesome! Have you ever seen the work of Yoshi Tomo? He might be a good resource on chisel making if you haven't seen him yet.
Jesse
The problem with using a file is that most are not a good grades of steel and are case hardened.
I suggest using 01 or A2 , however lean towards A2.
Here is the rational.
O1, is a simple high carbon tool steel with very little added to the iron/steel alloy other than 1.1% manganese. That pinch of Mn allows the steel to harden with an oil quench (the “O” in O1 stands for Oil.) Oil removes heat more slowly than water, reducing the thermal shock that occurs when orange-hot steel is plunged into water. Reducing that thermal shock minimizes the risk of cracking or distortion in the hardened piece. With an alloy as simple as O1, containing so few alloying elements, the hardened grain structure is as fine as possible which allows honing to the sharpest possible edge.
AISI A2 differs from O1 with the addition of 5% chromium and 1.1% molybdenum, allowing it to quench in still air (“A”for Air.) A2 improves its toughness and abrasion resistance, but imparts only a slight measure of corrosion resistance (like high carbon steel, it will rust and appropriate preventative care must be taken.) But there is a trade off. During heat treatment the chromium addition combines with some of the carbon in the alloy to form chromium carbides: tough, hard particles dispersed through the steel. These carbides are the primary contributors to A2’s celebrated edge retention. However, during heat treatment, the chromium carbides can grow quite large. Large enough to affect your ability to hone the edge as close to zero-radius as you may want. And these carbides are held in place with less strength than the rest of the steel matrix which can allow them to pop out under the stress of honing or cutting leaving a small gap in the edge.
FORGING
Heating for forging must be done slowly and uniformly. Soak through at 1900-2000F and reheat as often as necessary, stopping work when the temperature drops below 1650F. After forging, cool slowly in lime, mica, dry ashes or furnace. A2 should always be annealed after forging.
ANNEALING
Heat slowly to 1550-1600F, hold until entire mass is heated through, and cool slowly in the furnace (40F per hour) to about 1000F, after which cooling rate may be increased. Suitable precautions must be taken to prevent excessive carburization or decarburization.
STRESS RELIEVING
When desirable to relieve the strains of machining, heat slowly to 1050-1250F, allow to equalize, and then cool in still air (Strain Relieving).
PREHEAT PRIOR TO HARDENING
Preheat slowly to 1350-1450F and hold at this temperature until part is uniformly heated.
HARDENING
After thorough preheating, heat to 1750-1800F. Hold the work piece at the hardening temperature until it is completely and uniformly heated.
QUENCHING
A2 is an air hardening steel and will develop full hardness on cooling in still air. To avoid scaling of the work piece surface, controlled atmosphere or vacuum furnaces are recommended. If these types of furnaces are not available, salt baths or wrapping the part in stainless steel foil will provide a degree of surface protection in the hardening process, Parts should be allowed to cool to 150F, or to where they can be held in the bare hand, and then temper immediately.
TEMPERING
The tempering temperature may be varied according to the desired hardness. If maximum hardness is desired, tempering should be in the range of 300-400F, but if a lower hardness is acceptable, tempering at 950F will give the optimum combination of hardness and toughness. The Rockwell C hardness obtained on specimens 1 inch square when quenched in air from 1775F and tempered at various temperatures, held for 4 hours, are as follows:
Tempering, especially with an unknown (scrap) steel is tricky. Even after 40 years of forging I still miss every now and then. Don' t think of it as a failure; call it a learning experience and try again. It's a beautiful tool and may yet be saved by re-grinding a bit and re-hardening in oil as Lucas suggests.
I'm not a bladesmith but a machinist with rough ideas of materials. I've found a file (plain high carbon steel) is a poor choice for fine edged tools. You need a real tool steel containing chrome and vanadium for edge strength and edge holding (separate properties; think about it.)
There's more BS, nonsense, superstition, wasteful tradition, wanton ignorance, and old wive"s tales about what makes the best knife steel on-line than you can imagine. Ignore those having partisan but uninformed advice. The people who make industrial knives for processing raw materials is probably your best example. I suggest you look at the materials used to make top end jointer and planer knives for the woodworking industry (NOT the consumer) and track down the material and heat treating info necessary to attain the properties you desire in the tool you want to make.
I know you revere the wrinkled up Japanese smith squatting at his forge but his tools are works of art where finely tuned instincts require 40 years to acquire and many unspoken mysteries prevail. You need practical metallurgy. Go with the science and technology where there are no secrets withheld. Make your laminated chisels but use the right materials and processes.
I suggest a low-sensitivity oil-hardening tool steel like O-1 but you're going to torture it forge welding. The surface of the tool steel will de-carburize. This surface is permanently damaged and must be removed to expose clean undamaged metal. I suggest you allow 1/16 stock for finishing after welding and forging, grind and file to semi-finish, heat-treat to manufacturer's instructions, borrow a hardness tester to check results, then gently finish.
Every fine tool steel has a narrow range of optimum hardness when employed for hard-used cutting edges like woodworking chisels. A point or two on the Rockwell C scale makes a considerable difference in edge holding Vs chipping. O-1, I would guess, would be best at Rc 61-63 but that's my guess. Confirm your choice in a good resource like "Carpenter Matched Tool and Die Steels," "Tool Steel Simplifed," etc.
You're a hell of a fine woodworker but, like me, ignorant of metallurgy except the sketchy lore picked up here and there. I've learned the hard way if I need to know something, I'd better find authorative sources for information. Too often the best a buddy has to offer is no better than repeated BS. If you're honestly ignorant (ignorance is fixable with education and training; stupidity goes clear to the bone) how do you separate useful information from glib nonsense?
First, nice work 👍🏼 Second, to paraphrase AvE - you can’t break it if it’s already broke. Remove the handle, try another tempering at a higher temp and give it another go. Otherwise it’s only good for looking at 😁
All in all a pretty good job. Quench in 1095 steel is .95% carbon content. Needs to be quenched in oil. I use canola oil pre heated to 130degrees. Water cools down the steel to much causeing it to be brittle. You could always try your luck by pulling the handle. Normalizing the chisel 3 or 4 times and re quenching. Re tempering and re stoning. I do 420 degrees for 2 hours. Then pull from oven and let sit above the vent hole til cool. Good luch samurai.
I have only made a half-dozen blades so I'm far from a professional but I have to agree with those saying the water quench was likely the problem. The professionals use specialized quench oil, but with 1095 you should be able to get pretty good results with canola oil, especially if you warm it just a bit before you quench.
Again, this is probably not earth-shattering news and I see several other commenters have said similar but I have had really good results with this in the last couple of blades after a couple of failures early on.
Today, March 19, Is carpenter's Day! Congratulations!!!
Win or fail, you attempted it. Congratulations!
To salvage it you can remove the handle, normalize two times at a lower temperature than you did this time and reharden, maybe in oil. Then it should be fine, otherwise try it again until the chisel is ground away ;D
Chip-out sucks. I think you may have over cooked the blade when it was bubbling in the forge. Ask Alec or Liam to watch the video and offer advice, maybe?
Ya i agree, I think you over cooked it, and water quenched it. Over cooking makes it brittle, and water quench makes it harder. Im no blacksmith but seen this happen 100s of times on forged in fire, and they say same thing i said.
Awesome job! I think you should keep the V1 projects in a little shrine to learning this awesome craft. I'm thinking of framing some of my failed laminations etc just to remind me of things I have done wrong etc.
Failure is cloaked opportunity, no one gets it right the first time. I was taught in a machine shop to keep hardness cool it in oil not sure if that works on the level of hardness needed...? You're still my hero!!!
Welcome back to UA-cam! The Samurai is back!
That vacuum action on the chisel is feeeheeekin' sweeeeeet!
Nice setup thanks for the video you did a great job for the first time, I could only hope to do as well my first time. Just got to figure out the condo rules first!
I've made a few blades and quench in oil rather than water. Without knowing exactly what steel the file was made from it's hard to say whether or not it should be quenched in oil or water but if you start with oil and it doesn't get hard enough you can always move to a water quench. I've had one blade do what your chisel is doing and that was one made from a Nicholson file and quenched in water, all my oil quenched file blades have been fine. I suspect if you quench the next one in oil you will get much better results.
Did you normalize before the heat treat? normalizing shrinks the grain structure making a stronger steel. Grain structures become large and grainy with high heat (like forge welding). Also 1095 is generally considered an oil hardening steel. Water quench may have created micro fractures.
Dang Samurai, that chisel is magnificent. Sorry about the chipping issues. Check with your old pal Alec Steele, I am sure he will know what to do..
By far my favorite woodworker to watch. I have to have a samurai made chisel....I don't care if I have to sharpen the dang thing every time I use it!!!!
Fire and sparks in a woodshop? You are braver than Alec. Keep up Brotha!
Hey , one thing that can tell you what is wrong - you can inspect the place of the missing chip with magnifying glass and see if the grain structure is coarse or fine. If it's coarse , you can normalize it 2-3 times and do the heat treat again , then grind ~1 mm . Also quench in hot oil , not in water - it reduces risk of warping and cracking. Don't give up on forging I'ts alot of fun. Cheers
Great attempt. Hopefully it can be salvaged. I just hate it when some people turn to jerks when you ask for a opinion. As long as you had fun building it, that is what truly matters. Can not wait to see your second attempt.
Enjoyed watching your first attempt. Keep at it bro!
Good vid! It was a success because you learned. 👍
It's your quenchant, Jessie. Unless you have a specific steel designed for water quenching, never use water. Quench in used cooking oil or motor oil. If you want to go all out you can get yourself some Parks 50 quenching oil.
Try quenching in oil next time. 1095 is an oil quenching steel. It is also a less aggressive heat curve and it will reduce grain size therefore making it tougher
i'm really turning around on you samurai, i am really liking your videos lately. you are aging like fine wine
Where have you gone I really miss seeing what you are making next.
You did a great job buddy, as far as what all these guys are saying. Liam and Alec can help you save it, the quench didn’t crack it and you learned something new. Positive vibes all around this first step.
Take the handle off and anneal it and quench in parks50 oil and temper it 2x and also try to leave at least a 1/16th of the edge dull (don’t grind down to a pointy edge) before quenching so you can grind away the scale and get to good metal... there’s also some good metal suppliers to buy all kinds of carbon steels cheap it’s worth checking out to play around with relatively inexpensive or maybe try some o1 the shape a chisel instead of forge welding either way it’s fun to play around with metal or ask Alec 👍
Hey Samurai! Are you content having metal work in the same shop as woodwork? I am sure you have limited space but perhaps a floor-to-ceiling divider with ventilation would help keep metal dust/shavings/odors from spoiling the wood aromas/environment. Personally, I hate the smell of metal work so maybe it is just me? I have a metal polishing/grinding booth in my shop and all I did to contain the mess was go floor-to-ceiling with shower curtains. It works pretty good and because they are clear I don't feel claustrophobic.
Samurai, don't give up!! I'm no expert but I think you did great for your first attempt; as you said failure is all part of learning and you probably just need to 'refine' your 'quench technique'.
I’m a bladesmiths and I can agree with most of these comments in that you got the metal to hot before quenching and you quenched in water which adds unnecessary stresses to the steel. Oil such as Canola oil would be much better suited. Also you should have tempered at 425-450 for at least 3 1-2 hour cycles letting it cool to the touch in between each one.
I hope Alec gives some pointers! From what I saw, you did pretty well!
That golem impersonation was on point
i think you have plenty of comments to sieve through and i doubt if i can help much, but the ability to make fine or specialised tools to enhance your trade would be a great asset. i have been a motor mechanic in rural Australia for most of my life and it has been essential to be able to make or modify tools/devices to get a job done. i wish i had some of your skills. the humble wood chisel is great place to start,so do not give up,which i know have not and keep up the good work. love your channel.
we miss you samurai!
Cool that design
Awesome job man sorry for all the people that leave stupid comments I love the work you do even when it doesn't turn out the best lessons learned
Keep it going
Awesome man
Love it
Next one will be next level
Please don't think of me as an expert, but the way I understand it is, when you quench in water, you cool the steel far too quickly and cause micro fractures. Try using proper quench oil next time and see if that makes a difference. Failure is a part of learning. Don't give up!
actually the you can be very successful quenching in water with 1095. his problem is the temper. It should be something like 450 degrees
seriously...
it's the matter of steel if you have to use oil or water, japanese high carbon steel is usually quenched in water by japanese traditional smiths. File steel is usually a high carbon steel very similar to the japanese one i think, shouldn't be a big problem.
You can quench in both oil or water, water is often not preferred due rust/scale forming with the free oxygen in it. Oil is lighter than water which means lower thermal mass, and a higher boiling point. Oil will therefore in net result cool it faster, important on larger work pieces where you want the hardening to a deeper point into the material.
DataStorm but oil needs also less energy to rise a degree, im not sure but i think water has a five time higher requirement to raise one degree than oil. Effectively water can cool better and faster thab oil, but in terms of steel, faster isnt always better. Because of that some steels need the use of oil and some do not.
Still really cool, get your harden and heat treat down, try quenching it in canola oil maybe, the water quench might be too fast, you can retemper it though..
that is absolutely salvageable! torch the tang until the tip goes straw yellow! Do you know if it can be quenched in oil? (oil quenching is more forgiving.)
i believe that if you quench hardened steel then the metal becomes even harder, because the surface is now under tension, i think it would have been fine without being quenched... just anneal after doing rough grind on the edge
Dude, you didn't fail. You're learning.
Every professional gets things wrong some of the time, relax, you're in good company.
Pick up the phone and call Alex Steele. He is your friend and I am sure he would have an idea or two that could set you on the right path.
So do we have to pay now to watch the new videos? I get notifications saying there is a new video but nothing comes up
Is there any way you could explain the forging process in full I love to watch but don't understand all the process think it is a beautiful art form and would love to understand it
hope you are well we miss ya!