My first laser project making a sign for a restaurant was with MDF. Its my go to flat "wood" product now. Your comments are right on and very useful. I subscribed and will look for more practical tips presented in a clear non-theatrical manner. A lot of UA-cam presentations are too much fluff and too little practical useful fact. keep up the good work. Thanks.
I do a lot of laser cutting with mdf, ive built a very well sealed unit to keep the fumes out...all the smoke it creates goes out through the ducting to outside. For extra measure, i also use a blueair purifier in my workshop to get rid of any nasties that manage to escape when i open the lid. Gotta be careful.
Interesting video. Hardboard is like MDF. It is used for flooring. A 4' x 8' sheet, 1/8" is usually under $14.00 at Lowes. It's basically MDF, but a little harder.
Great video! How to perfectly clean the edges after cutting MDF? I have so many edges and it is difficult to be able to do a clean job as if it were simply a four-sided shape :(
We like using Minwax's Sanding Sealer (amzn.to/3ueEBaO) because it's water-based which is great for cleanup and we don't need to worry about ventilation. :)
I’ll have to try some more MDF I think. I bought 2 different packs of 1/8” 12”x12” from Amazon from different vendors, and brighter will cut. I assume something in the glue is dispersing the beam causing scorching and fires.
I was using MDF, but found it a bit weak for things like hinges and looks like cardboard when cut (had a couple of people say that). The flatness is great and no warping. Great for some things, but not for outdoors or moist environments. If it gets wet, it swells and crumbles. Fine for indoor stuff, but for items like boxes or keychains that take abuse or can get wet, not the best. I use regular plywood for boxes etc, even though I lose a couple of boards to warping. Better than reg plywood for jewelry.
Yes, MDF definitely does have some drawbacks and will not be suitable for all projects or products. It's just such a pleasure to work with it over a lot of other materials we use. :)
@@smedleyworks Agreed. With reg plywood warping is a big factor, Out of 16 boards I usually have 4 that are too warped to use. Also, MDF always cuts; some plywoods are a hair too thick and won't cut through properly.
Is it possible to do a sort of 3D relief into the MDF? Like if Simon wanted a piece to have a texture, maybe a worn stone brick pattern? But not just cutting stylized brick outlines into the mdf, actual 3 dimensionality (albeit very shallow).
Our apologies. We forgot to add the links. Here they are below (and they're also in the description). 1/8" - 12" x 19" MDF Sheets - 10 pack amzn.to/3RY4c2g 1/4" - 12" x 19" MDF Sheets - 10 pack amzn.to/3S9rima
MDF isn't as strong as plywood, but how well it holds up will depend on your application. 1/8" was perfectly suited to a lot of projects we've made and products we've sold in the past. We just really like it. 🙂👍🏻
Great video!!! You make me love MDF, also I’m curious about that machine that apply the masking, I would like to know more about it, if somebody have the information please share
I have a problem with soot on the burned edges, I don't have it on plywood, it rubs off on everything and is hard to remove, you have to clean every edge and some of the cut pieces can me quite small. I tried less power to burn and more passes but doesn't seem to help
Hi, awesome video i have a question, You said you get the mdf the 48x96 for $22. Where do you get it ? I work a ot with mdf and i seen that size but 1/2 in. And 3/4 but not the 1/4. I only can find the 2x4 sheets. Ill appreciate the help and God bless.
I would search Google for "wood supply" in your area. Places that supply woodworkers and cabinet makers should have it. I think I've also seen sheets in Home Depot, but I'm not sure how big.
You might be able to get away with 1/4" MDF, but the edges will still wear. If it's for temporary or promotional type keychains, then it might be ok, but I'd go with something a little more durable. When we used to sell wood keychains, we used a maple veneered MDF core wood that worked really well.
If you have a downdraft table, good exhaust, and can cover any table openings, you can get warped material to suck down flat. If not, then that's a great reason to use MDF. 🙂
I used some MDF from Amazon just now, all the cut lasered edges have soot all over them, I can't get it off and it transferes to the parts. What do I do?
@@Razie1201 That's really going to depend on your laser bed size, exhaust blower, laser power and how smokey it will get. Sorry we can't be of more help here.
I have been able to get through 1/2" with our 120w lasers, but it makes a mess of the edges. We don't go any thicker than 1/4". I've been able to get though 1/4" MDF with our 75w Universal without issue. Our 120w lasers make short work of it.
I don't like the fact that after cutting mdf, the burned edges are so dirty and makes it so difficult to use the cut piece without getting everything and your hands dirty. That does not happen with plywood or birch
We get a nice light brown edge that really doesn't get on your hands. In fact, we used to cut thousands of blank products from 1/8" and 1/4" MDF to be used in our UV printers, so the surfaces needed to be super clean. Back then we cut everything with our 75w Universal Laser in one pass without any issue. Are you getting a black sooty edge? Maybe it's the MDF brand you're using?
Cutting mdf regularly is a sure way to ruin your laser cutter and filters. It will leave a sticky mess everywhere and you’ll be left with a terrible smell that won’t go away. Do not work with mdf unless you’re in a dedicated shop space and are willing to clean the machine and filters about 5 times as much as normal.
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My first laser project making a sign for a restaurant was with MDF. Its my go to flat "wood" product now. Your comments are right on and very useful. I subscribed and will look for more practical tips presented in a clear non-theatrical manner. A lot of UA-cam presentations are too much fluff and too little practical useful fact. keep up the good work. Thanks.
I absolutely agree with you
Are settings for the MDF wood the same for plywood
i am just getting ready to purchase and begin laser printing so the information is very helpful
I do a lot of laser cutting with mdf, ive built a very well sealed unit to keep the fumes out...all the smoke it creates goes out through the ducting to outside. For extra measure, i also use a blueair purifier in my workshop to get rid of any nasties that manage to escape when i open the lid. Gotta be careful.
What is that tool at 2:47 to apply the mask to the MDF? Also, very helpful and informative video! Liked!
Interesting video. Hardboard is like MDF. It is used for flooring. A 4' x 8' sheet, 1/8" is usually under $14.00 at Lowes. It's basically MDF, but a little harder.
Great video!
How to perfectly clean the edges after cutting MDF?
I have so many edges and it is difficult to be able to do a clean job as if it were simply a four-sided shape :(
Great channel! Lots of helpful and informative content.
Great video thanks
Good job
Hey, great video! Quick question: what type of sealer do you like to use on MDF before painting?
How you clean mdf from the burning?
What are the settings for a 10w
I’m new to this. Can you give examples of sealers you mention to use prior to painting. Thank you for the video.
We like using Minwax's Sanding Sealer (amzn.to/3ueEBaO) because it's water-based which is great for cleanup and we don't need to worry about ventilation. :)
I’ll have to try some more MDF I think. I bought 2 different packs of 1/8” 12”x12” from Amazon from different vendors, and brighter will cut. I assume something in the glue is dispersing the beam causing scorching and fires.
Thank you for the video... just what I was looking for! You got a new subscriber! =D
very useful thanks
Does the “paper mask” you use have a self adhesive backing? What’s it called? Thanks.
Great information
Aren’t MDF fumes super-toxic (due to glues burning)?
Yes. Yes they are.
Where did you get that awesome transfer tape holder/roller/machine?
The machine we use is a Daige Solo cold laminator. :)
I was using MDF, but found it a bit weak for things like hinges and looks like cardboard when cut (had a couple of people say that). The flatness is great and no warping. Great for some things, but not for outdoors or moist environments. If it gets wet, it swells and crumbles. Fine for indoor stuff, but for items like boxes or keychains that take abuse or can get wet, not the best. I use regular plywood for boxes etc, even though I lose a couple of boards to warping. Better than reg plywood for jewelry.
Yes, MDF definitely does have some drawbacks and will not be suitable for all projects or products. It's just such a pleasure to work with it over a lot of other materials we use. :)
@@smedleyworks Agreed. With reg plywood warping is a big factor, Out of 16 boards I usually have 4 that are too warped to use. Also, MDF always cuts; some plywoods are a hair too thick and won't cut through properly.
Ehat is the minimum wattage needed to cut it.
Does the box stores MDF have glue issues for cutting and engraving like plywoods do with them ?
I cannot get 3mm mdf in my country. What other wood or cardboard I can get as replacement?
Is it possible to do a sort of 3D relief into the MDF? Like if Simon wanted a piece to have a texture, maybe a worn stone brick pattern? But not just cutting stylized brick outlines into the mdf, actual 3 dimensionality (albeit very shallow).
You but idk what the topography will be like
Great video! Did you say you’d share links to some online mdf supplier options?
Our apologies. We forgot to add the links. Here they are below (and they're also in the description).
1/8" - 12" x 19" MDF Sheets - 10 pack
amzn.to/3RY4c2g
1/4" - 12" x 19" MDF Sheets - 10 pack
amzn.to/3S9rima
Thanks for this! Does MDF work well with laser engraved QR codes? Or should I stick with acrylic despite the toxic smell? Thanks again!
We haven't tried QR codes on it, but it engraves great so I would assume they'd be perfectly scannable.
@@smedleyworks Cool, if you ever decide to try a MDF vs acrylic scannability test, a video documenting the process would be appreciated!
Mdf works great for scan codes!!
@@mannilee3893 Good to know, thanks!
How durable is the 1/8” - seems like it would break a lot easier than plywood
MDF isn't as strong as plywood, but how well it holds up will depend on your application. 1/8" was perfectly suited to a lot of projects we've made and products we've sold in the past. We just really like it. 🙂👍🏻
Which sealer are you using with the MDF? Thanks!
I use Miniwax Sanding Sealer (amzn.to/3TBV3h6). It's water based, so it cleans up easy and there's no nasty smell.
Not available in the links you provided.
Great video!!! You make me love MDF, also I’m curious about that machine that apply the masking, I would like to know more about it, if somebody have the information please share
The machine we use is a Daige Solo cold laminator. 🙂
@@smedleyworks thanks so much, I love your videos.
What is the machine/device called--manufacturer that applies the masking paper? Thank You for the great video!
Daige Solo cold laminator. 🙂
Tell me which types of MDF for laser cutting and engraving?
Pine mdf or any other
I have a problem with soot on the burned edges, I don't have it on plywood, it rubs off on everything and is hard to remove, you have to clean every edge and some of the cut pieces can me quite small. I tried less power to burn and more passes but doesn't seem to help
he paints everything
Did you say that you need to treat the mdf before cutting? Like with a clear coat?
No, MDF does not need to be treated before cutting, but it does need to be treated before painting.
@@smedleyworks what are you treating it with before painting?
We typically use a water-based paint sealer, but there are a number of things that will work.
Belos trabalhos, poderia disponibilizar os arquivos?
thx
My 22w diode has trouble cutting it
Hi, awesome video i have a question, You said you get the mdf the 48x96 for $22. Where do you get it ? I work a ot with mdf and i seen that size but 1/2 in. And 3/4 but not the 1/4. I only can find the 2x4 sheets. Ill appreciate the help and God bless.
I would search Google for "wood supply" in your area. Places that supply woodworkers and cabinet makers should have it. I think I've also seen sheets in Home Depot, but I'm not sure how big.
@@smedleyworks thanks that's where i get at homedepot but never seen 1/4 4x8. Thank you👍
Would mdf people good for keychains? Or is it not durable enough for wear and tear?
You might be able to get away with 1/4" MDF, but the edges will still wear. If it's for temporary or promotional type keychains, then it might be ok, but I'd go with something a little more durable. When we used to sell wood keychains, we used a maple veneered MDF core wood that worked really well.
Yep... so tired of warped plywood. Going to stock up on MDF and see how it goes.
If you have a downdraft table, good exhaust, and can cover any table openings, you can get warped material to suck down flat. If not, then that's a great reason to use MDF. 🙂
So, does it always have to be masked to look good?
I used some MDF from Amazon just now, all the cut lasered edges have soot all over them, I can't get it off and it transferes to the parts. What do I do?
try using a light damp towel and wiping it.
You sand it with 220 sandpaper. Or cover surface with painters tape
I like all the pros of using MDF, but I'm concerned about it's biggest con: apparently it releases toxic formaldehyde fumes when lasered?
Many of the woods that you're going to laser cut are laminated with an MDF core. We've been using it for years and we're not dead yet. :-)
Seriously though, we've always had a good exhaust system in place to mitigate any of this.
Most reputable wood suppliers are that sell MDF will be able to tell you if it is formaldehyde free. Most in the US is.
@@smedleyworks do you think a vac hose would be good enough or should I ventilate it more ?
@@Razie1201 That's really going to depend on your laser bed size, exhaust blower, laser power and how smokey it will get. Sorry we can't be of more help here.
MDF doesn’t like to cut! My 80w laser cuts fine on birch ply at 1/2in but I haven’t been able to cut that thickness with MDF
I have been able to get through 1/2" with our 120w lasers, but it makes a mess of the edges. We don't go any thicker than 1/4". I've been able to get though 1/4" MDF with our 75w Universal without issue. Our 120w lasers make short work of it.
I don't like the fact that after cutting mdf, the burned edges are so dirty and makes it so difficult to use the cut piece without getting everything and your hands dirty. That does not happen with plywood or birch
We get a nice light brown edge that really doesn't get on your hands. In fact, we used to cut thousands of blank products from 1/8" and 1/4" MDF to be used in our UV printers, so the surfaces needed to be super clean. Back then we cut everything with our 75w Universal Laser in one pass without any issue. Are you getting a black sooty edge? Maybe it's the MDF brand you're using?
Alexanne Dam
The perfect material is plywood
Cutting mdf regularly is a sure way to ruin your laser cutter and filters. It will leave a sticky mess everywhere and you’ll be left with a terrible smell that won’t go away. Do not work with mdf unless you’re in a dedicated shop space and are willing to clean the machine and filters about 5 times as much as normal.