Wildcat PK80 Review (& WC80 update)
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- Today we find out why the Wildcat pk80 motor has been recommended for so long. We will also be updating you guys on the Schwinn Taff and WC80 Pipe.
Motor Kit: www.california...
Pipe: www.california...
Bike: Out Of Stock ATM
Sprocket: www.amazon.com...
Pull start: www.amazon.com...
Carb O-rings: www.amazon.com...
Jet Kit: www.bikeberry....
We upload motorized bike videos every week (sometimes more)!
FAQs:
Oil: 32:1, semi synthetic, random brands.
Gas: 87oct
Spark Plug: NGK B8HS (yd-100), NGK B6HS (pk80)
Parts: I buy mostly from Amazon.
Favorite Motor: Zeda (Firestorm) Triple 40
Favorite Carburetor: NT Speed
Favorite Bike For A Motor: I don't have one yet.
For motorized bike help, join the server / discord - Авто та транспорт
For any of our new viewers who have not seen the previous videos about this bike.
Our top speed is limited by the large 56 tooth sprocket, not the motor. With the stock 41 tooth sprocket that this kit comes with, you can expect this motor to hit 35-40 mph depending on the rider and tune.
So because the wildcat “PK80” has a “Unique” stroke, would adding the CnC that they offer which claims higher compression, be something to really take advantage of because of this stroke design?
I'm sorry I never had a issue with cnc Hub adapters and I have a 70cc mineralli hybrid China engine I ran to Motors hybrids with the Hub adapters and they never slipped I'm surprised I thought it was going to these hybrid engines have serious power I think it's a little bit too much for you but if you know how to rebuild an engine and like to do a video on it I highly recommend you try it out I can send you information links and everything send me your email and I could send you the information he try to do it the best way you can or a budget that you could afford I'm sure you will be surprised and like it yourself but I saw on your other videos you say you're not a speed demon or like going too fast or having lots of power I just recommend keeping your seat a little bit lower so you won't pop wheelies
@@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90 I’m curious about this, so wouldn’t that take away the design of the high compression head? I’m not saying checking isn’t proper, but after searching/learning about the CnC heads I did see some that had deeper dishes in the head, that sounds like what you would be suggesting I achieve. I do understand measuring the gap for a more efficient space in the cylinder. I’m still just learning.
thats good as a Motor soaker
Hey LA I had to put a new head stud on , and I’m having a lot of trouble putting the jug back on the piston because the rings are a little loose .. it’s feels impossible, any advice ? I would really appreciate it bro
Having a motorized bike may not mean much to some people, but it makes me happy...that's all that matters.
I agree. They're fun to ride and they're becoming very appealing to have in the inventory since gas prices have skyrocketed with an uncertain outlook on the gas prices in the future. I saw a video where a guy and a female rode their motorized bikes to attend a funeral in what seemed to be a city hundreds of miles away from where they lived in what seemed to be California. They'll get you where you need to go if they're built right, with far more economy than most other vehicles. They're nice to have for fun and economy. They're indispensable in the event of gas prices reaching new all time highs.
I have bought two pk80's and have had no problems with it . Mine are on my occ chopper style bikes running a 44 tooth sprocket rag joint only. With running the 20inch back wheel 44 tooth I can climb any hill with ease. I have considered the 56 tooth sprocket just so I can crawl at walking speed around here in the woods.
Oh by the way I live on the Oregon coast so our mountain range is quite steep to say the least.
I do very much enjoy your videos and have been watching them since I got in to this fun practical form of transportation, so basically since you first came out with your UA-cam channel.
Keep doing what your doing, your information from actually doing is honest and trust worthy and I value your opinion.
Sincerely,
Benjamin from Oregon
Those clutch levers are the bane of my existence, I swear. They seem to last longer because I've had a few buttons fly out on me, but the mucking around just trying to get them to lock is just frustrating.
Had a bunch of problems with the clamp on mount with certain hubs.
This setup has worked well. 2k and never slipped.
Stihl 54mm topend rm80 pipe 26" wheel 10/40t with a clamp on mount.
1. On the mount shave off a bit where the 2 parts oh the hub mate up.
2. Both hub and mount needed to be gnarled
3. Added a two part metal epoxy in between hub and mount.
Check the sprocket alignment then tighten the bolts enough to hold. let epoxy set 15-60 minutes.
Get a good amount of red 747 thread locker on all the bolts.
Torque down.
Check sprocket to be true still.
Good luck with the rides
Thanks for your time and consideration always
enjoy the content.
Thanks for the detailed info on how you got it to work. Solid :)
I never liked the idea of the rag - joint. i love how clean the adapters look. I was so sad when i head LA's recommendations but this is great info, makes sense and gives hope. Thanks for sharing.
I've had to sand the plane on my hub adapter more than once .
I've only had success with rag joints for the 1st 1000 miles.
I did 40 mile round trips .
I had 2 wildcat pk80s .
The first one leaked from the case out of the box ( that's when I learned to tighten everything from scratch ) .
My second one was excellent , no complaints with a top speed around 40mph with a 36 rear sprocket.
Zane with cmb is hard to reach .
agreed same. i had an airleak, rode 4miles up the street lean and cooked the chrome off the cylinder, ok my fault trying to make it home lean, had to buy a new top end because i tried calls emails and nothing, i wasnt even upset at that point,, fixed it and rode about 1mile and the actual magnet itself went bad and took me 6hrs to diagnose. i know chinese parts suck but he couldve at least replied. i wont buy another.. strokers from npow on
I really appreciate what you're doing. I used your tips and techniques to bring my bike from just "meh" to "holy crap this thing is flipping awesome!" Serious kudos and keep up the great work!
Can't wait for the port work series!
I AGREE! an O-ring is something it wouldn't kill them to include
You are correct about the standard clamp adapters you find everywhere on eBay, Amazon, etc. They're intended for coaster/single speed hubs, which have a 1.5" diameter. Most multi-speed hubs are closer to 1.25", which requires you to use reducer bushings or try to find a hub adapter of the correct size. I think Manic Mechanic made a 1.25" adapter at one time, but I can't seem to find it anywhere.
I have a pkat and have about 32 miles on it and yes I absolutely love it! And I agree, it does have great torque. I don't have to peddle up any hills at all and I live in Sheridan Colorado which is A little over a mile up Is in this thing runs beautifully. And I hear you with the response issues from California motorbikes. They don't seem to want to respond to anyone They don't seem to want to respond to anyone But they sell great product. By the way thank you for getting me into this hobby. I follow all of your videos, in fact I've watched a few of them probably about a 100 times I follow all of your videos, in fact I've watched a few of them probably about a 100 times!!! But anyway man great content and thanks for Inspire me An educated me into this hobby. Have a great weekend and ride safe!
*pk 80
This talk to text shit sucks!!! Oh picked me up that time!!!😆
Mine came with the carb o-ring and this engine has been the best I’ve had! Seems to have more torque and I even trail ride it with the 41t sprocket it and surprising it pulls up hills and also it’s been very reliable
Good deal! Will be sending mine through some nice trails soon.
Bunch of awesome info as usual,, thank man!! trying to think of the next motor route i wanna go
L.A., l agree with you about those trash pull starters. As far as hub adapters, l won't use anything else. I find that rag joints are very difficult to get centered, and are ugly as hell. To your credit, you did explain that these hub adapters work well on single speed coaster brake wheels. Fortunately this is all l use on my builds. Keep the good stuff coming. Bikes By Bill.
I had that same problem with my clutch lock. I welded a nail onto it to when I pull the lever all the way the lock will stop on the third setting. you might be able to jb weld something onto it to stop you from fiddling with it when trying to slow down
I've had issues with the quality control with almost every single Runwell engine, from both companies that distribute them.but after everything is corrected they are my favorite engines. Great building blocks for making a bad ass runner.
Thanks for sharing.
@@LAHover hey La do I have to do a plug chop after changing the carb jet ?
Not sure who "recommended" the Wildcat pk80, but it sure wasn't me. I much didn't care for it. The fact the jet size is so off right out of the box tells me they did little, if any R & D. They just boxed up what looked good on paper. I personally have built 6 motorized bicycles. The hub adapter needs slight modification. I always sand down the mounting surfaces. fits tight. Haven't had one slip since discovering this, and is far superior to the dreaded "rag joint". The 40t sprocket seems to be the sweet spot for me. I use NO air filter on the NT carbs. Just a piece of thick "arched" leather screwed on to prevent tire debris. I have experimented with jet sizes, different carbs, Sprockets, Spark plugs, fuel mixes, heads(squish), reeds, muffler types, chain tensioners, etc... and a decent stock china doll motor, that is properly broken in, almost always outperforms a modified one. I have gone on many rides with a local pack of riders in my area, and my "little reliable" mostly stock 49cc doll, keeps up with the 100cc modified bikes all day long. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Love your channel I have 4500 on my bike and going thanks to your tips
The hub adapter isn't complete garbage if it works well on coaster brake hubs, hover. Also, no rubber between hub and adapter and set the adapter touching the spokes (for forward motion, of course) and it WILL NOT slip.
I'm currently building my first bike and it's pretty much identical body to this. Everything except the carburetor fits just fine. Now I have to wait for an angled intake pipe to arrive...
I just finished my first build(rebuild(rebuild)).
I used a Schwinn Kicker and a 100cc kit swapped head to a slant head and still needed a shoe horn and a jackhammer to get it in. 26inch tires 52t sprocket
And it came on and off that tight lil frame quite a bit before it ran had to use 1/2inch copper to mount the carb no room for anything else ported wide on exhaust cleaned up and polished transfers and intake fat belly exhaust. Last run I had to tighten the seat as it nearly left me sitting on the ground. Lol these things are awesome. Cheers sorry just green and lovin this stuff
The cnc adapters you get from amazon are sometimes trash. got mine from a guy (pedalchopper) who custom cncs them, cost about 100$. ive never used locktite on the bolts on the hub piece, just the sprocket and its held up 100%. never slipped once and gives me a true sprocket.
I appreciate your honest reviews
Awesome video a always! Which size o ring is right for the carb? 15x19x2 ?
I agree with you on the clutch lever. Have gone back to the button lock for the same reasons that you mentioned ( short travel and fiddly lever) and i have not even run my bike yet
My current build a road/track bike with the YD100 engine, should be on its wheels and running this Saturday 25th Sept.
The engine sounds really good, a nice mod for the exhaust pipe would be a heat shield. Great Review!
I haven't tried an o ring before, but I found making my own gaskets to be the best way to go, by far.
Just trace your gasket on a cereal box, cut it out and apply a gas resistant gasket maker to both sides. The seal is second to none.
Seems like the PK80 engines must really like smaller jets. I installed one for someone last weekend, and had to go full lean on the needle with a 66 jet.
California motor bike pk 80:runs great stock takes me everywhere
Fred head UA-cam channel has different connecting rods explaining the differences between rides and piston hole size and crank difference in strokes
great video . super informative as usual. - thanks for sharing. regarding the bevel gears - i watched a video from one of the california motorbikes guys and it showed them building an engine - they said not to grease the main gear too much as the movement can throw grease in the clutch and cause it to slip and wear etc. :)
Never had a problem with my cnc clamp on adapter, But yes your correct i have a coaster brake hub. Rag joints always bend my spokes after riding awhile.
I got to agree the rag joints are way better than clamp on adapter.
I bought a Wildcat PK 80 from Cali and it was trash. Bottom end was garbage. Don't bother. With the YD100 and New Phantom 85 out there.. don't bother.
I think your stock muffler for the expansion chamber muffler is really taking some power away. should opt for something a scooter muffler or something as such. the stock engine muffler on the expansion chamber is like covering the outlet with your thumb
Agreed. It is totally negating the effect of the pipe
@@jacobplambeck6938 probably a big reason why he had to down jet so much. but still a 56t is to much for even a trail bike. much smaller sprocket will have the same torque response as long as he's not going soo slow. I'm sure he's got good low end and at best good low end. but 56 is tooooooo slow. 46t and a better "tuned" as in nothings bottlesnecking tooo much because I really feel like his "tuned" motors are really bottles necking. nothing against him, I just feel like his he has lost to expand
56t is exactly what I like for the places this bike will be going. We don't all ride the same, you do you, I'll do me ;) ua-cam.com/video/geW8qlojp9c/v-deo.html
Most silencers will have a slight effect on performance. But the modified muffler is only slightly worse than a "free flowing" BA silencer... Your claim that it "totally negates the effect of the pipe" is wrong.
Love the build and info on these bikes
I don't know those are my favorite clutch levers, button ones are a distraction for me,but that's just my preference.
Hughes says to notch the adapter as well as the wheel hub and put a woodruff or slotted keyway.. I believe all that Precicon grinding is above my patience level
Works well on thick coaster hubs. I tried it twice on thin mountain bike hubs and both times the key eat through the hubs...
There's a video showing the installation of a clamp on sprocket adapter where both hub and adaptor are notched to accept a keyway. After dremmeling both and sanding the mating surfaces so a tiny gap exists between the halves when tight it would seem to be the missing piece. I have yet to get my first build started so pure speculation on my part. Being a perfectionist and using a full suspension specialized FSR for my first isn't helping either.
Great video bro good information and I agree about the new clutches they suck with out the stopper I also find myself looking for the setting so I changed some back to the old style definitely better
My exhaust sounded the same. I also broke a piston ring.
yea you cant restrict the exaust like that, gotta get a good silencer, ive had a sick pipe become useless with that old silencer
Temp pipe while waiting on the BA silencer.
You should test out this theory I heard that polishing your 2 strokes piston to a mirror finish helps keep temps down and carbon buildup away maybe test it on the 50cc
sounds like a fun test, thanks for the suggestion.
@@LAHover yeah man I just saw it on some forums and I was like that sounds like something you would want to test out
The low hole piston and the 40mm stroke work because Californiamotorbikes is a short rod motor not a long rod
Thanks for filling me in on that! Man I was scratching my head lol
i'm glad i watched this ! i don't think i'll be getting one of these engines
Carry a good Zip Tie with you. You can pre set it and slip it on and off just by squeezing the clutch handle. The zip tie will hold the handle back and you can push or ride the bike when you run out of gas very easily.
About 1 hour before you posted this comment I uploaded an easy fix lol. What are the odds?
ua-cam.com/video/dcVUIbIzoHI/v-deo.html
I have a wild cat pk80 kit it is very nice but I ended up having the acorn nuts stripping on the head not sure why they stripped but I ended up getting to long of bolts a broke the block. So it needs a new block. Other than that the performance was excellent it would haul my 140 pound self up some steep hills with out pedal assistance it is not modified at all out of the box except for the removal of the exhaust baffle and has very nice power very impressed with the kit although I got mine for 200$ from California motor bikes. I feel it was well worth it though.
Edit: I got a new bottom end and used bolts instead of studs working well so far. Feels very smooth with the new bottom end already road about 2 miles.
Well coming back to it I’d say I’m very happy with the quality of the engine itself. That being said I’m not sure I’m gonna keep the reed valve setup, it’s just a g2 and I was less informed at the time of purchase, I won’t be needing it and it only adds unreliability in my case so I’ll ditch it even tho it cost me an extra hundred bucks lol thanks for reviewing the kitty it’s a cool little pk80 sub imo
I used to think that the Wildcat was the best engine. I have changed out the Piston five times and that motor is 2 years old. You got other manufacturers that also have low hole Pistons to their PK 80 Motors. CDH Motors and Runfast Motors also have low pistons. From 5 yrs experience all China dolls are ok, but they get weaker over time in take off. Top speed always there but after replacing G4's cylinder and low pistons the bottom still holds up, but motor just ain't the same. Getting new motor after 1 and half year to 2 yrs would be my best suggestion.
🎉
I just flip the pulley around on my tensioner and keep the clearance on my frame.
Great video as always, top notch. Looked like your muffler may have been bouncing around a little from the rear shot of outlet tube, that will run through a lot of exhaust gaskets if the case. In fact I believe I can hear an exhaust leak ticking at the gasket.
Yup needs a 3rd support
As always a splendid video good sir! Just got mine in the mail yesterday. Overall, I am pleased with the look of the motor. My cylinder was very clean as well. Might still need to clean it just a little. My only issue was that every bolt attached to the motor were in tight. I mean TIGHT! Lost a little knuckle skin cracking them loose. hahahahah.
another thing ive noticed about the trigger lock clutch lever is that every time im engaging the lock small metal ships fly off of the trigger, so obviously there is some pretty bad wear issues their.
Would squish gap also affect the amount of four stroking?
It was the same clutch on my bike. I removed the Spring by the clutch arm on the motor
These bikes kits are like tattoos you keep building more I have three now one I’m still building just wondering how many do you have built now
im a first time builder. would this kit be a good start.
When I use a clamp hub I put some 2000 weld glue on it and I never had it slip but you can get off the hub either
You can possibly have a long rod .. there used to be 3 different rods but now there is just 2 a short and long rod that's how you can use high hole piston on a short stroke
Could be I'm not sure. Turns out there are more rods than I thought.
Agreed hub adapters are garbage, I also welded my sprocket to the hub. Would've used rag but same issue the hub was to big to fit it
Try drilling and tapping a 5 1/16 set screw on the hub adapter and locking it down to prevent it from slipping. I ground a point on the end to get a really good bite.
Tried that b4. Works well on coaster hubs but it crushed and eat a mountain bike hub.
Yep I did that on a non coster brake bike hub put a hole through it, ok that'll work just get the piece of metal out of the hub as to not ruin bearings thread locker on every bolt. STILL came loose slipped bent spokes wallered put the hole, I tried rubber between, same story. Ended up welding the sprocket to the hub rim is fucked anyway lol
nice set up... I got my engine from the same place and I have had no issues with it, I am pretty impressed with it too... but I've adjusted and adjusted but i cant get the clutch to not slip when i pop it to start...I'm thinking maybe some stiffer springs...
Any more news on the phantom 85?
Nothing yet, still running for me. We are swapping the seat and bars on the F-Zero so we can take it on a nice little adventure trips soon ;)
I read everywhere its a bad idea to use an aluminum frame bike with gas engine. Your thoughts on aluminum vs steel? Do you have a video on that specific topic?
Does this guy have his own website for parts I feel like they would be good quality
California Motorbikes does, I don't. For the most part I just throw stuff on a bike and see what happens lol. Definitely not an expert...
www.californiamotorbikes.com/
I'm jealous. I can't get mine to start yet. Waiting on a intake manifold gasket then I'll try again. Please let me know what jet you used! I heard they come with a 70 and I down jetted to 68. [Edit] I see you answer this later on in the video.
Her I did that a long time ago never thought twice about. O-ring.
Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks to a good motorized bike, i have a schwinn mountain bike like yours with the front and rear disc brakes; did you remove the rear disc and bolt the rear sprocket to that disc bolt pattern or id there another way? can i remove the rear disc for the sprocket and use the old school rubber rim clamp rear brake? thanks jb-
Got home from work last night and my pk80 was waiting for me, so I was pretty excited. Well like the muffler you got, mine also had a generous amount of slag rattling around in it, my head looks like they used it for a Frisbee and they tacoed both gaskets provided with the kit bc they threw the chain on top of it. Who's "hand inspecting" these things? Bruce Banner?
Ouch lol... Well I hope you get it running ok. Good luck!
About the rear hub adaptor for the gear, I as well have had bad luck with using them, but something I have thought about is, what if both side were equipped with a set screw? Have you tried this? I have not, and no people I'm not talking about running in a long self tapper, but preferably an Allen headed machine screw so as not to go into the hub itself, lol. I can't stop myself from wondering if this would work, as I do like the idea of the hub adaptor, makes it easy to change gears, etc... But I too will always use a rag joint until I see any ideas that work for the other. Thanks!
I have bought two China dolls now and both of them have blown up during the break in period and I have babied them both the first one the nut behind the nt carburetor that turns the choke on and off sucked in the motor and tore the piston up the second one I even babied more and I guess the piston baring g ring must have not been set right because it came loose and broke the top of my head so now I'm going to buy the upgraded runfast pk 80 so that way I don't have to worry about it breaking when I run it what do you think?
I need some help for the compression for me is 95 psi warmed up and cold even when full throttle open please any help??
Do you think the pk80 is good enough to run straight out of the box without taking the head of and checking for the piston g ring to see if there seated correctly so what I'm asking is do you think its safe top run one without having to take its apart and then having to torque everything back down and the reason I don't want to take apart is because I don't want to take a chance off breaking a wring on them piston so do you think it will be ok to run straight out of the boxes to the bike please answer if you have the time please and thank you sir
@LA Hover Bikes - I’m researching for my first bike build. In your opinion, how does the Wildcat PK80 compare with the Zeda triple 40? My first bike will be for trail use like your Schwinn Taff, since I’m coming from dual sport motorcycles. Ultimately, in that application, I’m more interested in reliability than outright performance.
Great video. Thanks
Personally i've found the stock heads to be terrible on these bikes... you can replace it with something aftermarket or do like i did and take about 1.5mm off of the stock one... the higher compression really opens these things up... also raise the exhaust port or you can add an extra base gasket... and take a bit more from the head or the cylinder.
My 50 cc has a 40mm stroke and a low hole piston.
Put a chunk of thick leather in that sprocket adapter it won't slip anymore
No I put a nitrous kit on mine I should have got the wing package but I didn't and I'm still flying
Thx your information tuning motor in description
@LA Hover Bikes my head and my jug aren’t touching the together and the gasket I sent squished but somehow it is not leaking and I do have a high performance head so what dose that mean?
That's how they look when assembled. If you look at the bottom of the head, there is a ring on the bottom that actually is what seals up against the gasket and jug. Looks crazy but that's how they designed these.
@@mattf1229 thx
Heyyy I got a new pk80 but when I pull the clutch it it over pulls in and it lock up h ok w can be in fix the ok s ?
It is 38mm stock takes high hole 40mm takes high hole i got a fm80 crank it is a long rod it takes the high hole piston it dont make sense at all the yd100 is 40mm stock it takes a high hole piston with China motors it is untelling they got me puzzled so be safe out there what do u think but the pk 80 cranks are about 3 to 4mm shorter that is 40 mm 38mm stock crank is longer
I just bought one today, I built my first bike about a month ago just bc I needed cheap transportation, it works and it does what I need it to, so obviously I need another one right?🤷♂️ lol
My Walmart had 2 taffs, and I was almost tempted to pick one up. But I really like 26 inch bikes. They just don't have any solid 26 inch bikes so idk where else to get them. I wanna get a nice bike for next year. Have any suggestions?
Do you still recommend the zeta 80? I was looking for something reliable and easily upgradeable for up to 200
Yes, the Firestorm Zeda 80 is still my favorite motor.
28 mph is actually pretty damn fast for that large of a sprocket, but I suppose it's slow for that big of a pipe
Pipe only cares about RPMs ;)
I'm new to the hobby and just received a bike from marketplace that has the Wildcat PK80.
The guy claims he's never ran it and it honestly looked like he's being honest.
The build was never completed.
Anyways, I put the motor on my crusier and took it out for a spin only to find it to be very very sluggish all around.
I'm running a 16:1 fuel ratio for the break in period as suggested.
It cruises fine, just painfully slow on takeoff.
Any advice ? Thanks
These engines used to be way better. I've been using pk80s for 8 years I used to buy them from Joe. Once Zane took over the customer service went to shit and so did the quality of the engines. Every engine I get from California motorbikes the gas tank is damaged it's annoying. Sometimes they run good but it's rare with with these pk80s. I'm a builder and build and sell about 100 bikes a year so I know what I'm talking about. Just a fair warning stay away there is better out there for the money and the owner doesn't give 2 shit's about you or anything about his business just about making money.
can you give any recommendations around the same price?
How does the pk80 compare to the zeda 80 firestorm?
At 2:52 you talk of the chaintensioner adjustment slot going the wrong direction, doesn't it go on with the bracket on inside of the rear wheel stay
That would place the pulley dangerously close to the spokes.
@@LAHover damn that's scary cause my dumb ass has it like that. I assume that was the the correct way cause of the slanted slot. I'm glade it had moved and gotten caught.
Hey, I got a zeda 80cc firestorm kit, it comes with the trigger lock clutch lever, any suggestions to a replacement clutch?
I personally didn't like the button lock lever had it pop out from vibration while peddling
Does the Seeutek engine kit come with EVERY part? i know the Wildcat and Seeutek have the same engine
Where do I get the keys for the carb?
I would like to know the same way it won't work
I tried a clamp on adapter and almost killed me. I got hurt pretty bad. Rag joint is way better
Im new to this but im going to build a bike. Im just undecided on a 2 or 4 stroke. What would you recommend for reliability? Seems to me the 4 stroke is a much easier to deal with, just start it and no clutch to deal with. Ive watched a lot of videos. Really like your videos. Please let me know what type of engine.
2-strokes are generally faster and less expensive but require MORE maintenance.
You should try to drill and tap the clamp adapter. I had the same problem and went through too many rims. I did this to mine and so for no problem
Can't do that on a mountain bike hub. They just buckle.
I see...ohh well I feel your frustration though the rear rim has always been a pain in my rear. love your channel keep up the good work 👍
@@groundup3832 ua-cam.com/video/K6OazAbP-tI/v-deo.html
So how's the wildcat holding up? Been looking for an updated video, maybe I missed it?
She is a little ripper! Strong stock motor, no issues so far.
Love the Lantern how much is that worth?
Hi, I need some help... I adjusted the carburetor needle with the lock being right in the middle, and now when I press the clutch and accelerate, sometimes it locks up with all the speed, or sometimes I just press the clutch and she gets super accelerated. What can it be? My carburetor is NT, with that golden tube where the fuel hose goes
High revs when you squeeze the clutch sounds like an air leak.. could be wrong you can check with some non-flammable brake cleaner