That sort of gun is normally set up as a shotgun, so it's got a SUPER heavy-duty mainspring. or shotgun primers will not detonate from the hammer-'strike. IF the factory did not already do this, you can get a weaker mainspring from Wolf Gun springs, as well as drill a hole and install a pin (red Loctite will secure the pin in the hole). in the full cock notch of the hammer, to limit the sear engagement. and reduce the pull weight of the trigger. Very careful work with stones and re-casehardening of the parts with a torch and Casenite compound, will probably be necessary if you try to polish the contact surfaces.. Many of the low-cost type guns do not use parts that are hardened all the way thru. You really should get a $500 parts AR-15 and a $150 drop in trigger job. It will do SO much more than any single shot can do. The 22l r conversion unit, $250 from CMMG, will save you 40c per shot and pay for itself and the AR in a year or so. File off the tip of this pin until the hammer stays cocked when you push on it (hard) with your thumb. You can work out an over travel screw or pin someplace, too., so that the trigger stops dead when the hammer is released. If you've got a half cock notch, beware that the over travel screw does not make your trigger tip "rub' on the half cock notch, If it does, consider doing the Gold Cup modification to the half cock notch and the trigger/sear tip. Before you go cutting on parts, get SPARE hammer, and sear, and install those. Then cut on THOSE, so that your proven "good enough' parts can be re-installed. You can probably get the parts at low cost from Numrich Arms., or Brownell's Supply.
is your rifling twist 1 in 8" or faster? If it's not, you might not be able to spin-stabilize the 70+ gr bullets. The best soft point load is the 60 gr Nosler Partition from Black Hills, over $1 per shot. but it's dual core construction assures both expansion and penetration, as long as your bullet still has 1800 fps of impact velocity 1 in 9" twist is the most versatile. 1 in 7" twist is a bit too fast for normal 22lr ammo thru the conversion unit. The 22 unit is half of the reason to own an AR.. I favor the skinny 10.5" barrel, with 7.5" of silencer that I made on a form 4. The gun is 6 lbs, the 22 unit and silencers 3/4 lb each, the scope and mount are 1 lb. It's one helluva gun for no more weight than that. If shtf, I'm digging a tunnel and staying in it except for one hour at night. and the 60 gr subsonic Aquila 22 ammo will be adequate for that excursion to access a food bucket and water and cook a meal. So the scope will normally be in a hard belt case, for use as a substitute for a binocular. I want nothing to do with being in open country, especially not at night.
That sort of gun is normally set up as a shotgun, so it's got a SUPER heavy-duty mainspring. or shotgun primers will not detonate from the hammer-'strike. IF the factory did not already do this, you can get a weaker mainspring from Wolf Gun springs, as well as drill a hole and install a pin (red Loctite will secure the pin in the hole). in the full cock notch of the hammer, to limit the sear engagement. and reduce the pull weight of the trigger. Very careful work with stones and re-casehardening of the parts with a torch and Casenite compound, will probably be necessary if you try to polish the contact surfaces.. Many of the low-cost type guns do not use parts that are hardened all the way thru. You really should get a $500 parts AR-15 and a $150 drop in trigger job. It will do SO much more than any single shot can do. The 22l r conversion unit, $250 from CMMG, will save you 40c per shot and pay for itself and the AR in a year or so.
File off the tip of this pin until the hammer stays cocked when you push on it (hard) with your thumb. You can work out an over travel screw or pin someplace, too., so that the trigger stops dead when the hammer is released. If you've got a half cock notch, beware that the over travel screw does not make your trigger tip "rub' on the half cock notch, If it does, consider doing the Gold Cup modification to the half cock notch and the trigger/sear tip. Before you go cutting on parts, get SPARE hammer, and sear, and install those. Then cut on THOSE, so that your proven "good enough' parts can be re-installed. You can probably get the parts at low cost from Numrich Arms., or Brownell's Supply.
is your rifling twist 1 in 8" or faster? If it's not, you might not be able to spin-stabilize the 70+ gr bullets. The best soft point load is the 60 gr Nosler Partition from Black Hills, over $1 per shot. but it's dual core construction assures both expansion and penetration, as long as your bullet still has 1800 fps of impact velocity 1 in 9" twist is the most versatile. 1 in 7" twist is a bit too fast for normal 22lr ammo thru the conversion unit. The 22 unit is half of the reason to own an AR.. I favor the skinny 10.5" barrel, with 7.5" of silencer that I made on a form 4. The gun is 6 lbs, the 22 unit and silencers 3/4 lb each, the scope and mount are 1 lb. It's one helluva gun for no more weight than that. If shtf, I'm digging a tunnel and staying in it except for one hour at night. and the 60 gr subsonic Aquila 22 ammo will be adequate for that excursion to access a food bucket and water and cook a meal. So the scope will normally be in a hard belt case, for use as a substitute for a binocular. I want nothing to do with being in open country, especially not at night.
should read once per week, not per month, on the plasma sales, $50, sorry