Sam demonstrates how to "reverse" chuck a lathe-turned piece. He removes the tenon from the bottom of a bowl and shows how to finish the base mostly by turning it.
Mike I use alder for this. It is inexpensvie. I form the outside of the jig's edge to mate with the inside of the bowl. I did not explain this well in my video. It is important for the rim of the bowl to connect with the face of the jig. The tail vice support will keep the bowl in place. Thanks for the question. Sam
Alan, Actually this bowl was rough-turned and sat around for a year. it didn't need that long but I just din't get to it. I rarely green turn such a bowl (salad bowl) unless I want it to warp and move for effect,. One of my favorites to do this with is Madrone. I will green turn the Madrone and put it in shavings. If you rough-turn something like Madrone, it will often crack etc. I had turned and sanded the inside of the bowl before I started. Thanks Sam
Thanks for the Video, Wyomy. It helps me see how to mount the rim of my Bowl to the Face Plate. The next bit is tricky, My Bowl has a hole in the bottom which needs widened to take a disc 2 1/4" in diameter. So I need to hold it somehow. Now the rim is 8mm clearance from the Lathe Bed.
Pablo, First the wire. You can find it in your hardware store. It comes in a roll. It is 3/16 inch in diameter and you can make your own. I have several sizes. For the switch. I have a powermatic so I don't know IF it can be installed in another machine. If you do a youtube search, you will find a guy showing how it is wired. It is not difficult if you follow the instructions. But if you are not comfortable with electical stuff, please don't do it. YOu could hurt yourself or the lathe.
Palm to forehead! Why didn't I think of making a type of Cole Jaw in the style of this one?! So much easier and much cheaper! Just started turning two weeks ago though, so still learning. haha. Many thanks for the Vid and Ideas Senor Sam... Peace
Just to clarify. You turned this bowl green to very near final thickness. (This is opposed to rough turning to a very thick wall before a final turning.) Then let it dry. How long? Then this video. Did I get it right? Great description. Thanks. Alan Stratton
As always very good video. I see in the background a remote switch for your Powermatic. Can you tell us how to install that. Also a "wire" caliper which I am sure you use on your hollow vessels but I cannot find a source for that type of wire. Thanks and keep the videos coming!
Thanks again for your great explaination, Sam. Again you are very good at explaining the details... I just turned 65 years old and now within the the last 6 months have started turning bowls, live edge,platters, ring holders, vases, even two lidded boxes, thanks to you.... My problem is usually is that even though I am working with wood (ash, cherry, and walnut,oak.. ) that has been cut up or blew over in storms for about 8 month to 5 years... I am getting quite a bit of movement oval shaped... Is this okay if the vessel doesn't crack????
It is OK for the wood to go oval if it doesn't split or crack. The best thing is to rough-turn wet wood, put it away in shavings and then return it to the lathe and finish the bowl. Then the movement will be kept to a minimum. I have videos on this on my bowl' playlist. Sam
love the video! I searched for exactly what you are doing and have experienced the exact same issues with the dotted rubber pad leaving marks. But I have never seen that blue rubber pad... where do you get it? not trying to be obtuse but have just never seen it before! love your vids:)
bond3737 I had to go back and look at the video. The blue padding is simply A shop towel. It comes in a roll. I did call it kitchen paper and sometimes the British turners do. My sense of humor might have thrown you a little bit. But the shop towel as a little padding and prevent us the rubber sheet from leaving marks thanks for watching Sam
Maybe you can give me a bit of wisdom, I've recently starting trying these flat based bowls. I'm using the same tail stock you are, but several times now, when I get to the point you are at about 9:00, the tenon will split apart, allowing the bowl to fall, and the live center really buggers up the bottom side of my bowl. Just last night this happened on a bowl I was Very proud of...and advice?
It's nice I found this as I'm having problems finishing the bottom of my bowls, thanks.
Excellent video Sam. I appreciate the time you take to explain tool choice and positioning.
Very nice. I appreciate you helping me get from novice to novice with delusions of grandeur. You do really nice work.
Mike
I use alder for this. It is inexpensvie. I form the outside of the jig's edge to mate with the inside of the bowl. I did not explain this well in my video. It is important for the rim of the bowl to connect with the face of the jig. The tail vice support will keep the bowl in place. Thanks for the question.
Sam
Very informative and well demonstrated Sam. Thank you
Take care
Mike
Alan, Actually this bowl was rough-turned and sat around for a year. it didn't need that long but I just din't get to it. I rarely green turn such a bowl (salad bowl) unless I want it to warp and move for effect,. One of my favorites to do this with is Madrone. I will green turn the Madrone and put it in shavings. If you rough-turn something like Madrone, it will often crack etc. I had turned and sanded the inside of the bowl before I started. Thanks Sam
A very well explained video.
Thanks
James
Great example of using scraps. Great video Sam.... George
Thanks for the Video, Wyomy. It helps me see how to mount the rim of my Bowl to the Face Plate. The next bit is tricky, My Bowl has a hole in the bottom which needs widened to take a disc 2 1/4" in diameter. So I need to hold it somehow.
Now the rim is 8mm clearance from the Lathe Bed.
Thanks for watching
Sam
I would turn a plug for the hole then glue it in and you could finish your turning afterward.
That was a really big help to me. Thanks Sam !!
That was a huge help to me. Thanks Sam !
Pablo, First the wire. You can find it in your hardware store. It comes in a roll. It is 3/16 inch in diameter and you can make your own. I have several sizes. For the switch. I have a powermatic so I don't know IF it can be installed in another machine. If you do a youtube search, you will find a guy showing how it is wired. It is not difficult if you follow the instructions. But if you are not comfortable with electical stuff, please don't do it. YOu could hurt yourself or the lathe.
Good video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
Helpful video. Thanks Sam!
Thanks Sam. This is going to improve my work for sure. Great video.
And I'm defiantly going to modify one of my spindle gouges like that!
Thanks David
OMG.....look at that hair and the video is not in HD. Maybe a remake is in the works. Sam
Thanks for the excellent video on bowl reversing. The custom bought jaws are not always suitable.
Thanks
Thanks, Sam
great video sam
Palm to forehead! Why didn't I think of making a type of Cole Jaw in the style of this one?! So much easier and much cheaper! Just started turning two weeks ago though, so still learning. haha. Many thanks for the Vid and Ideas Senor Sam... Peace
Just to clarify.
You turned this bowl green to very near final thickness. (This is opposed to rough turning to a very thick wall before a final turning.)
Then let it dry. How long?
Then this video. Did I get it right?
Great description. Thanks.
Alan Stratton
Pablo, the man installing the switch is Dan Walker. Do a search----"remote switch on a powermatic" and you will find it. Sam
Thanks Sam
As always very good video. I see in the background a remote switch for your Powermatic. Can you tell us how to install that. Also a "wire" caliper which I am sure you use on your hollow vessels but I cannot find a source for that type of wire.
Thanks and keep the videos coming!
Thanks
Thanks again for your great explaination, Sam. Again you are very good at explaining the details... I just turned 65 years old and now within the the last 6 months have started turning bowls, live edge,platters, ring holders, vases, even two lidded boxes, thanks to you.... My problem is usually is that even though I am working with wood (ash, cherry, and walnut,oak.. ) that has been cut up or blew over in storms for about 8 month to 5 years... I am getting quite a bit of movement oval shaped... Is this okay if the vessel doesn't crack????
It is OK for the wood to go oval if it doesn't split or crack. The best thing is to rough-turn wet wood, put it away in shavings and then return it to the lathe and finish the bowl. Then the movement will be kept to a minimum. I have videos on this on my bowl' playlist. Sam
OK Thanks
Sam
nice work
love the video! I searched for exactly what you are doing and have experienced the exact same issues with the dotted rubber pad leaving marks. But I have never seen that blue rubber pad... where do you get it? not trying to be obtuse but have just never seen it before! love your vids:)
bond3737 I had to go back and look at the video. The blue padding is simply A shop towel. It comes in a roll. I did call it kitchen paper and sometimes the British turners do. My sense of humor might have thrown you a little bit. But the shop towel as a little padding and prevent us the rubber sheet from leaving marks thanks for watching
Sam
Maybe you can give me a bit of wisdom, I've recently starting trying these flat based bowls. I'm using the same tail stock you are, but several times now, when I get to the point you are at about 9:00, the tenon will split apart, allowing the bowl to fall, and the live center really buggers up the bottom side of my bowl. Just last night this happened on a bowl I was Very proud of...and advice?
WYOMINGWOODTURNER I really appreciate your response, I think Im using the same live center you are. I believe its the factory piece supplied by Jet
Mike,
Can you explain a little more about what you are asking?
Sam
Sam can talk about bowl jig used turn off the bottom?
Thanks Sam