As part of a project to make a bunch of turned storage jar lids for friends and family, I learned to use jam chucks routinely. Very easy and very useful. Thanks for the video. 👍
Very informative and a big help to me, Richard. I've always tried to avoid using jam chucks, but this explanation has shown that they're not as mysterious or daunting as I've found them to be.
Before the modern self-centring chucks came along I used a cup chuck, essentially a jam chuck, in production to make thousands of scoops. ua-cam.com/video/D3znG7-ksIw/v-deo.html Once you get the hang of jam chucks you'll find them enormously useful.
Crossgrain bowls can be re-chucked in exactly the same way, but there are easier ways when it comes to removing or refining a foot or bowl base as you see in many of my bowl videos and ua-cam.com/video/4FONJZLc91k/v-deo.html
Great video. A couple points: creation of a burnishing line also burnished your work, which isn't desirable. I check fit with the lathe off. You can drill a hole through the chuck, and use a dowel as a knock-out rod. An ill-fitting jam chuck is a great way to split your work. I recently added an internal support dowel to a jam chuck (3/4" dowel friction-fit and adjustable with a hammer) to provide bottom support when removing a tenon with tailstock support. If using the tailstock, as the bottom thins, the tailstock pressure may become enough to split the bottom (learned the hard way).
If you go gently, burnishing the work shouldn't be too much of a problem, and I've rarely found it so. Go too hard and you have a none-too-decorative charred ring or burn mark. I avoid using knock out bars or sticks on finished work, mostly because of the risk of going through the bottom of something.
Basically the same but with tailcentre support. There are three variations in the recent crossgrain cylinders video ua-cam.com/video/IX8_MD1O6js/v-deo.html. Or at 21:09 in the pencil pot video ua-cam.com/video/Q6pq2_cQAuE/v-deo.html you see an endgrtain version.
Occasionally I have a knock-out hole,but not always in the centre. On larger chucks for bowls a slot near the rim does less damage to the bowl when leverage is required.
Hi is there a way of making a wooden jam chuck for a pool cue i need to hold end of two piece to turn down for a new brass ferrel at tip end. I have made a steader from 3 bearing casters with rubber wheels any tips
I'd grip the very end of the ferrule end in pin jaws, refit the ferrule and be resigned to losing 15mm off the tip of the cue. And support the other end of the cue with the tailcentre. If it's a brass cylinder it'll fit over the conical centre. You shouldn't need a steady working close to the chuck.
Well, after a month of home renovations I finally have time to watch some videos again! Very informative as always, many thanks! Are there types of wood you would advise not to use as jam chucks? Or certain types are fine, just not on some types? Thanks once more for putting your knowledge and skill and experience out there.
I prefer using softer woods so there's a bit of give in the surface, however slight. And if the wood's been felled a few months, so not dry but not wringing wet and spraying sap, the damp enhances the grip of the chuck.
Watched this with my 10 year old son. Will give it a go later. Thank you. Very enjoyable to watch.
Thank you Richard. Your videos are jam packed with information. So much to learn and so little time
It’s 05.12 in the UK. Good morning Richard. As always, thank you for sharing your expertise 🌞
As part of a project to make a bunch of turned storage jar lids for friends and family, I learned to use jam chucks routinely. Very easy and very useful.
Thanks for the video. 👍
Thanks Richard, a very useful resource. As usual, the more you turn, the easier it gets.
Great explanation on jam chucks Richard.
Very helpful detailed explanation. This is something I've struggled to get right; your video was very helpful
Thank you again, my friend. You are the best teacher.
Great class on making and using jam chucks. Thank you!
Great video, well explained and nice cleear imagery.
I have now subscribed to your channel.
Very informative and a big help to me, Richard. I've always tried to avoid using jam chucks, but this explanation has shown that they're not as mysterious or daunting as I've found them to be.
Before the modern self-centring chucks came along I used a cup chuck, essentially a jam chuck, in production to make thousands of scoops. ua-cam.com/video/D3znG7-ksIw/v-deo.html Once you get the hang of jam chucks you'll find them enormously useful.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you. I'll persevere and see how I get along.
Very well explained as always. Thank you Richard.
Thank you for a very informative video Richard 🇨🇱🤠
Thanks a lot for all these explanation
Thank you! Very helpful. Could you explain an/or in future show how you could do this with a larger bowl? Again, thank you
Crossgrain bowls can be re-chucked in exactly the same way, but there are easier ways when it comes to removing or refining a foot or bowl base as you see in many of my bowl videos and ua-cam.com/video/4FONJZLc91k/v-deo.html
Thank you for your reply, grateful for your constant teachings. Wishing wellness
Great tips😀
Great work as usual. Thank you.
Could you please send through the details of the size of chuck and shark jaws you are using.
Thanks
It's a set of 55mm Shark Jaws on a Vicmarc VM100 chuck.
Great information Richard. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Very helpful, thanks again!
Great video. A couple points: creation of a burnishing line also burnished your work, which isn't desirable. I check fit with the lathe off. You can drill a hole through the chuck, and use a dowel as a knock-out rod. An ill-fitting jam chuck is a great way to split your work. I recently added an internal support dowel to a jam chuck (3/4" dowel friction-fit and adjustable with a hammer) to provide bottom support when removing a tenon with tailstock support. If using the tailstock, as the bottom thins, the tailstock pressure may become enough to split the bottom (learned the hard way).
If you go gently, burnishing the work shouldn't be too much of a problem, and I've rarely found it so. Go too hard and you have a none-too-decorative charred ring or burn mark. I avoid using knock out bars or sticks on finished work, mostly because of the risk of going through the bottom of something.
Very informative. The details are insightful. Am interested in your insights for jam chucks for longer pieces, like vases or handles.
Basically the same but with tailcentre support. There are three variations in the recent crossgrain cylinders video ua-cam.com/video/IX8_MD1O6js/v-deo.html. Or at 21:09 in the pencil pot video ua-cam.com/video/Q6pq2_cQAuE/v-deo.html you see an endgrtain version.
Good information.
Masterclass! Do you ever incorporate a central hole to allow the knockout bar to help removal?
Occasionally I have a knock-out hole,but not always in the centre. On larger chucks for bowls a slot near the rim does less damage to the bowl when leverage is required.
Hi is there a way of making a wooden jam chuck for a pool cue i need to hold end of two piece to turn down for a new brass ferrel at tip end. I have made a steader from 3 bearing casters with rubber wheels any tips
I'd grip the very end of the ferrule end in pin jaws, refit the ferrule and be resigned to losing 15mm off the tip of the cue. And support the other end of the cue with the tailcentre. If it's a brass cylinder it'll fit over the conical centre. You shouldn't need a steady working close to the chuck.
Would you say some softer woods would be best for something like this? I have some sycamore in abundance I could use
Woods slightly softer than the bowl or box you're mounting can give you a bit more leeway, but it's not critical.
Well, after a month of home renovations I finally have time to watch some videos again! Very informative as always, many thanks! Are there types of wood you would advise not to use as jam chucks? Or certain types are fine, just not on some types? Thanks once more for putting your knowledge and skill and experience out there.
I prefer using softer woods so there's a bit of give in the surface, however slight. And if the wood's been felled a few months, so not dry but not wringing wet and spraying sap, the damp enhances the grip of the chuck.
Your amazing
I enjoy watching your videos. But I can't hear them. That, and your accent makes it difficult to understand.
Cheers
There was a problem with the sound in some of the earlier videos, but you can adjust the volume.