Quick Tip: Must-Have Spare Parts for the 1911
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- Brownells Gun Techs Caleb Savant and Steve Ostrem are talking about spare parts you should keep on hand for the good ol' "Forty Five," the 1911 pistol. Steve breaks 1911 replacement parts into two categories: (1) parts that might BREAK or wear out and (2) parts you might LOSE. One way to go Boy Scout and be prepared is to just get a complete pin set, rebuild kit, or small parts "completion kit." That'll cover all the little parts like the hammer, sear, and mainspring housing pins, safety plunger / spring assembly, and the mainspring. Parts that are most likely to fail or wear by shooting your 1911 a lot are the extractor, grip screws, and firing pin. Parts that can inadvertently go astray when you disassemble the gun for cleaning or upgrades include the slide stop, recoil spring plug, firing pin spring, and if your 1911's a Colt Series 80, the safety plunger and levers. Steve even has a tip for backing up your mainspring housing. Did the guys miss any "mission critical" 1911 spare parts? Is there another gun you'd like them to cover in a future installment of this series? Just leave us a comment below.
Plenty more firearm info and wisdom in the Brownells video library: www.brownellsvi...
Video should be titled “money that brownells wants”
You can use an expended brass casing as a hasty recoil spring guide plug.
Spare recoil springs nice to have.
You're right, it's number one. This one should be periodically replaced based on amount of shooting, and I don't believe they even mentioned it.
@@markfreburg1608 especially on officers model
Great video. I've taken my Para P-14 apart several times. Strictly my opinion, but if you are "mechanically inclined" then taking the 1911 apart and reassembling is easy. There are some great videos out there detailing how it's done.
Small parts: **sometimes its found at the end of the session, sometimes its not**
Me: The horror
That spring plug put a dent in my ceiling.
A word of caution: the mainspring housing is NOT a drop in part. It *is* an integral part of the backstrap grip safety. You need to know how to fit the MSH and properly test the grip safety before you replace that part. (I prefer an arched mainspring housing so had to educate myself.)
A 1911 extractor is far from a drop in part. You can find instructions in books or online forum posts for correctly shaping and tuning an extractor for a specific 1911. You probably can get the first replacement to work fine, but having a backup is a good idea. Remember you can remove metal but can never put it back. Also, this part might not look like a spring but it is. Buy quality! (I’ve had good results with Wilson Bulletproof extractors but YMMV). Finally, the extractor needs to fit correctly with the firing pin stop. It takes extra work, but fitting an EGW oversized FPS correctly can help turn a jam-o-matic into a reliable pistol (Kimber taught me that lesson - bastids).
Recoil springs - especially a graduated set from Wolff.
And I can’t believe Kaleb & Steve left out the most obvious spare part of all - the MAGAZINE. Feed lips may get distorted. That funky follower might work at first but get squirrely over time. Spare magazines that you have tested with your gun and your ammo are at the top of my list for any firearm. I suspect that magazines contribute to a very significant percentage of firearms malfunctions. (Virgil Tripp sells magazine springs and followers that might turn a malfunctioning magazine into a reliable one.)
Extractor is my most replaced 1911 wear part. Thanks.
Back in 2010 I bought a brand new Colt Combat Commander XSE in .45acp, AWESOME gun. After owning for about a month and carrying it everyday there was a period of time of about a week where I didn't shoot it therefore didn't clean it. After shooting it and going to take the grips off the hex screws on the left side were rusted which led to me stripping the hex out. A girl over at my local Sears, remember them, sold me a set of Craftsman screw extractors. I tried using them very gently by hand but they just would not bite, when I put one in a cordless drill those damaged fasteners could not come out fast enough. The grips made it through just fine, I switched to a pair of VZ grips with some Wilson stainless hex screws and I still own the gun, I actually carried it until about a year ago. ;-)
I'd advise keeping a set of recoil springs...they're pretty much a 'consumable' item...especially if you shoot a lot...mebbe a couple of the same weight if your 1911 is tuned for a specific weight...I use a 16 lb spring...
Agreed, I've heard others smarter than I say a recoil spring is only good for 2000 rounds...I heard Wilson (maybe?) is making a different spring that lasts a lot longer...
Quick tip: if you have any gun taken apart do not get up or walk away, that's how you loose parts
Great advice about gear, as always. You should do one for the Kalashnikov
firing pin shepherds hook and recoil spring. thats about it
@@darinr9424 Thanks for the advice. They already did a video on it, and added a couple of more things. Not much tho! The AK video is like 1/4 the time as the AR video, with a LOT less spare parts. One of which is the joke they drop "More. Ammo!" The AK is great =)
Good advice. A few spare parts can save a lot of heartache.
The parts I immediately ordered from Brownells building my 1911: safety detent assembly and 2 ejector pins. Launched the detent that I found 6 months later in my shop inkjet printer. Lost one ejector pin and broke another.
If someone is so inept or careless as to lose parts then it's probably good that they DONT have a operating firearm
@@jayhogan1166 spoken like someone who doesn't work on firearms
@@Ehtereon11B yeah right, except for working on them for the last 45 years... Try to come to grips with the fact that YOU have a habit of losing things... I don't
@jayhogan1166 whatever you say sparky.
Wow, what a snappy comeback..
What About The “Grip Screw Bushings” That Are Staked Into The Frame If The Screws are Cross Threaded and The Bushings Waller Out 😎 Thanks Guys
Exactly what i was watching for. They are a pain if they get stuck on the grip screw and you nearly always screw them up busting them loose.
One of mine is stripped. I need to get a new set, but I am poor right now lol.
Rusty Taylor I Put a Nut Over It The Same Inside Diameter as The Bushings Outside Diameter and Get a Screwdriver That Fits Perfectly In-between The Bushing and Nut and That’s Wide Enough For The Slot and Turn It Out The Nut Prevents The Sides of The Bushings From Spreading Out 😎😀👍🏼 That’s What Works For Me When Removing The Bushings From The Frame
@@chrischiampo7647 i was thinking when you remove a grip that was ridiculously tight and the bushing comes off with it then all you have to work with is a small amount of threads because the grip panel is in the way. Several things you can try but usually you screw up the threads hence the need for spare grip bushings. Good Day
Hammer pin
Sear pin
Recoil spring plug
Grip screws
Extractor
Slide stop
A Glock
Request for Beretta 92... loved the 1911 and AR information thank you.
Thank you!
Thank you so much!
*Caleb, you're a country singer on you're down time correct :)*
*Great info guys...had no idea the 1911 had that many parts compared to my SIG*
Great tip..1911 is a gem to be kept in good condition.
I agree with other comments that the firing pin stop and extractor are two parts I keep in my spare parts kit that were not mentioned.
I never thought about spare parts for my 1911...until now.
Those are the exact parts I keep on hand as spares; better safe than sorry.
You missed the firing pin stop.
Or get a series 80 delete from Brownells
Did a r1 Remington and it now has a very smooth trigger
The only parts that I have needed for my 1911, which I have run several thousand rounds through, is the recoil spring (I’m on #3) and the safety plunger (just replaced for the first time).
You can use spent 45 acp instead of Recoil spring plug .
One part that I would love to see you carry is the extra depressor spring and sear that has the hole in it for the series 70 goldcups made in the late 70s and early 80s. It very small and the only colts that use them. This is a hard to make spring becouse its so small.
Also I recomend Wilson Combats flat wire recoil springs over any other as they just outlast all others. Stock recoils springs need to be changed every 3 to 5 thousand rounds but Wilson Combats flat wire can last 25 to 35 thousand rounds or more.
A spare firing pin stop couldn’t hurt either!
Next could be a pump action shotgun (mossberg 500/590 Remington 870)
Please consider putting links to your kits and products you mention in your explanation. It would be very convenient for your customers.
That's great except for one small detail. In January of 2022 none of this shit is in stock at Brownells
But the best bar stock 1911 parts and you should not have to worry about extra spare parts. Even Wilson Combat or Fusion Firearms MIM parts should not fail under normal conditions. Although even the best made parts can and might fail it's really the way you take care of your firearm that matters the most. Lots of extra spare parts are a waist of money if you've got the right setup.
Right as I was watching 1911 videos lol
I launch a part from my sig while I was working on it....found it on the top plate of the wall (semi finished basement) in the corner.
If you’re still checking comments on this vid, would you consider a vid on different recoil spring weights and lengths for 1911 government and commander sizes as well as .45acp and 9mm? What are signs you need to change the spring, and so on... Thanks for all the videos!
Thinks to know I haven’t had anything to go wrong yet!? You’ll be getting my order soon
I have a Colt Government Model in SS that I purchased just four or five years ago. I purchased it online and when I received it I noticed that the front sight was not flush with the slide and was even loose. I don't believe this was intended to be normal. I work for a living and time has a way of pacing, that said, last year I decided to take it to a local gunsmith and he attempted the stake the site to stop the loose fit. With tools available he did and charged me 40 dollars. One visit to the range and just a few shots later it was loose again, as if nothing had ever been done. I think the front site installation is a bit cheesy considering it's a Colt and that the front site is dovetailed. I'm considering two options, one - leave it the way it is or two - pay 75 dollars and the cost of a dovetail sight to be installed by another more reputable gunsmith in the area. Suggestions?
Spares for 870 and 500 maybe next???
Is it common to have the little pin in the plunger tube extend too far out to let the safety go back down and what would cause it to not allow the thumb safety to work, It will go up in the safe position but won't disengage unless I push the pin back in the plunger slightly.
Knew there'd be a hater in here posting "G19" or "G17" like their God of all knowledge.
Always...
You forgot the most important part which will wear out before all others, the recoil spring.
How about a spare parts kit that you can purchase
ive got a colt O1911C, and as you know theyve got a polymer mainspring housing. im trying to install your EGW arched mainspring housing with lanyard loop that i just recieved from you, but it didnt come with a new mainspring cap pin. i guess im supposed to use the existing pin. well, the existing pin wont fit in the new housing. i tried tapping it in, then i tried taking the spring out and just seeing if itll fit to begin with. nope. it still fits in the original polymer housing just fine. and inspecting the pin, it was not damaged by trying to tap it in before. it just will not at all fit. should it have included a new pin with the housing, or is it expected to require smithing to get it in? sanding? thanks
Hello from Kalifornia , How about some shoe Laces & cliff notes booklet on verbal Judo.
Do you have rear sight blade or the hole sight for a H&R 999 top break .22 ?
Let's see a video on the Russian Equivalent. I just bought a Zastava M57 and would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks.
Awesome thank you, how about a series 70 vs a series 80 and which one you guys prefer? Also could do a 1911 custom parts video, keep up the great work!
How can the series of a 1911 be determined?
Hey no love for the Para-Ord P-12 ?
I have an old Llama Max a1 45acp Needs an extractor, would a regular Colt one fit in it?. Its probably around 25yrs old it was my mothers ccw. Yup! She carried a 45 lol. 5' tall 😆
I own a Sig Sauer 1911 Target in .45 ACP. Is that a series 70 or 80 gun? Will general 1911 spare parts fit?
Lock the slide to the rear and look underneath to see it the firing pin stop is there, if it is, you have a series 80. With fitting, most 1911 parts will fit that firearm.
All SIG 1911s are Series 80
Polymer guns.
FN FNS
Parts that wear? Good parts to have? How to, video? Please.
Good video
Thank you for watching!
A spare firing pin stop would be good to have they crack and break. Also the .45 empty case can be used as a recoil spring plug in a pinch. Recoil spring and firing pin spring are a must.
...lose the recoil spring plug ?, use an empty .45 shell :)
I have a 1911 with the idiot scratch, I bought it that way a long time ago and thought I would try fixing it but never have. Is there a quick way to fix the scratch with a bluing kit or does it take a complete refinishing of the slide?
Honestly I would just do a refinishing.
Need part at other end of guide spring , retainer inner part , send to me , any info ,
I just bought a brand new Springfield 1911 TRP full size with a 5” barrel. How do I know whether it’s a 70 or 80 series gun. I think it’s amazing how little information Springfield gives you about their guns. What size replacement sights does it take if I wanted an adjustable rear sight. I see no way to tell.
Mark sorry man but if you don't know the difference between a series 70 and series 80 you probably should have bought a Glock........Series 80 pistols have an unneeded fireing pin block in them that typically gives you a poor trigger. Clean it after you use it blow the lint out of it after you carry it don't over lubricate it and it will last a lifetime no matter wht series it is.
It should be Series 70 .... Springfield is like most of the Custom made 1911s like Wilson Combat and Night Hawk....they don't make Series 80 1911 as it's viewed my many as additional feel good safety for Snowflakes.
Pinslayer 45 AARP
What a fucktard. I have five Sig Sauer Legions a few Colt revolvers, and I haven’t even taken the TRP out of its box yet. You don’t have anything positive to say go fuck yourself troll.
Madog Llewellyn
Thanks. I haven’t even taken a look at it yet. I’m a doctor and I’ve been at work overtime. I just thought about the difference when they said it in the video. I never thought to ask when I bought it.
@@marksd5650 You're welcome! Springfield makes good 1911s I have one. My primary one is now a Wilson Combat I bought 10 plus years ago configured much like the USMCs MEU SOC Colt M45A1. Before it became a thing.
Thank You for your service!!!! Have family members who are Doctors.
I’m guessing each manufacturer would have their own specific part set? For instance, I have a Kimber And I would have to get parts from them?
Not specifically. Parts are often compatible but always fully "drop in"
Brownells, Inc. thanks for the information.
*Not. Not always compatible. Sorry about the text error.
Maybe show safety install
How hard is it to build a 1911? Being reasonably mechanically inclined. Knowing calipers, micrometers, stone polishing.. holding tenths and microns.
Its doable with some time and patience!
I strongly suggest you buy and read The M1911 Complete Assembly Guide by Walt Kuleck & Drake Oldham. Book available from Brownell's here:
www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/books-amp-videos/books/handgun-gunsmithing-books/m1911-complete-assembly-guide-volume-ii-prod44138.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=SCOTT%2bAxzzx%2bDUFF
How come you never tell how much your parts cost or roundabout?
I imagine that if they listed prices for parts, and someone ends up watching this video 5 or 6 years down the line, they might expect the prices to be valid, so many years later. The prices probably will not be the same for everything discussed.
That is one reason I can think of.
How’s about developing a 1911 oops kit?
Ahhh we like that name too!
can you do a video on spare parts for the H&K G11?
The slide stop gets hot, crystalizes and breaks.
If you drop the slide on empty chamber too often, the slide stop is gone
Myth
Myth . I second that
@@elifoust7664 oh okay, looks like Im wrong
@@tatarugabriel4328 Actually any machine develops wear,however,1911a1 issued to troops were average 50 years old having been slide dropped thousands of times.Function testing inspection requires operation without clambering a round for safety reasons..thanks friend.
@@elifoust7664 I heard if you drop the slide on empty chamber on high end 1911 with tight tolerances, you even break the slide stop, or you mess up the headspace
My 1911 is a spare gun for my other guns.
People who lose parts as often as Steve and Caleb say they do should perhaps rethink taking their 1911s apart, and instead take them to professional gunsmiths. Or is Brownell's just trying to sell parts kits? I'm a decades-long Brownell's customer and will continue to be one, but "because I'm going to lose it" is a poor reason to buy a gun part.
The main spring housing, the one in your gun may be plastic. #kimberowners. 😂 Buy a Dan Wesson.
Brownies dose not warranty their products sold thru Optics Planet
Must have spare parts for 1911: #1 glock ...#2 that is all
Don’t forget the best spare part for a 1911... a Glock.
Glocks break too.
Gtfoh. Let the adults talk.
You replace all glock parts to start with don't you ? Sights trigger barrel and so on then it still points up in the sky.
we are all born ignorant but one must work hard to remain stupid.
Most important spare part is a GLOCK....
Dam you beat me to it
For all you stumble chucks place your gun inside a plastic bag while disassembling during certain operations. Then your boing or pin doesn't go bye bye . An old towel lined baking pan with short sides or tupperware make good work containment surfaces . And magically keep small parts from rolling off . Or has it come to extra parts are cheaper than brain cells ?.
Luv ya Brownells . And certainly nothin wrong with ya drummin up some business . I don't know man . Perhaps it be best for those unable to r & r a firearm without losing parts might find it best to farm out such difficult tasks .
Apparently you were the top stumblechuck because you had to figure out these tips after losing too many parts.
@@markfreburg1608 Naw . Just acutely aware there are too many idiots out there like you that don't have the mental capacity to figure these kinds of things out . So you're welcome .
@@markfreburg1608ain't that the truth. Reminds me of the guy that recommends wearing a bike helmet 24/7 because he keeps running into walls