Full 200 AMP Electrical Service Upgrade Install
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2022
- In this episode of Down to the Frame, Zach and Sam install an upgraded 200 Amp Electrical Service. Zach is a second year industrial apprentice electrician. This video is long but goes into great detail about exactly how to install a 200 amp residential electrical service and exterior panel. Let us know what you think in the comments bellow! Thank you for watching!
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#200amp #electrical #service - Навчання та стиль
As a contractor, I really appreciate your information. It is very thorough very clean and very informative. Five stars from me.
I am glad you found it help! Thank you for the kind words!
For someone about to do this in New Hampshire, this is incredibly informative and helpful. Thanks!
I’m very glad to hear that!
outstanding work, looking forward to upgrading my main panel from 100amp to 200amp. thank you guys.
You’re welcome! and good luck!
Wow, clean work. Thank you for brush up my mind about electrical work 😊
Thank you Jafar!
Great work! First class A+! I love it when I see a person that pays attention to detail! Yes, it does work that is sloppy. I think it works better when it looks good that’s my opinion! Always do your best and your best will be done. A looking job! Sincerely, Mr. Mark Martin
A good looking job on your main service panel! Sharp and neat
Thank you for the kind words Mark! We share the same philosophy. There is no substitute for quality work.
Nice job, i appreciate you sharing this build out. It will help me for future builds.
Thank you! I am very glad you enjoyed it
Good show on the ground bonding knowledge young man! Great work!
Thank you!
I really enjoyed this. You influenced me to change my electrical meter base/break panel plan. I think the combo seems to be the best way to go, I just need a find one that is ringless as my power company requires that. I just pulled my electrical permit last week and starting in two weeks. Great video.
Thank you Randy! Glad you enjoyed it! They have some great combos out there now.I hope things go smoothly for you!
I liked the video very detailed, would like to see more electrical videos. Easy to watch
Thank you Eric! More electrical videos on the way!
I enjoyed the video very detailed your work is nice and clean.
Thank you Don!
long time no see,great video thanks for sharing 👍👍👌
Thank you Richard!
Keep up the amazing work
Thank you!
Very nice install, lots of attention to details.
Thank you Richard!
Good job on the installation and video. Just found your channel and subscribed. Thanks for the vid you also did a great job on it.
Thank you so much! Means the world to hear things like this! Welcome to the channel!
Clean work man, good job.
Thank you!
Well done and very helpful!!
Thank you!!!
Nice and great job
Thank you!
I am doing a 200amp upgrade also as my original panel has glass fuses. I will be able to use the old panel as a junction box. Just had to replace my Meter base with an emergency shutoff meter base as the code has changed since I started. Ugh. The next step is getting the mast and weatherhead installed and finish up installing breakers in the new Eaton panel. Thanks for the great video.
That’s awesome! Sounds like you’re putting in some good work! Thank you for watching!
I don't know how much of the actual wiring carries over to my area but I like what you did with the trim.
Well either way thank you! lol
Very Nice Job!
Thank you!
Nice work.
I will be doing a very similar project in Southern NH. This will be my second house.
Thank you! and that’s exciting!
Clean work, definitely took longer than we would for customers but it’s your home and you definitely made it look clean as you’ll be seeing it everyday.
Totally agree! Way too long to complete 😂Thank you Andrew!
@@DownToTheFrame Pro-tip, you want things to be level with the structure not gravity when using a bubble level, if you want things symmetrical.
@@MrAnderson5157 Thank you for the tip!
@@DownToTheFrame I'm sure you knew that, just putting it out there for those who might not know :) Saves on time, frustration, and perhaps materials.
@@MrAnderson5157 haha yes, I agree it is much easier to get things to look right when you level it with what you are mounting to
Nice, clean job. I like your workmanship. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I definitely will be subscribing.
I’m just curious, are you a licensed electrician?
Thank you so much Vince! Means a lot to hear that. I am not licensed. I am a 2nd year apprentice for an industrial electric company.
Fantastic video. This one has been suggested to me for weeks but I just got around to watching it all today. You and I have many of the same tools, including all of the Milwaukee gear and the lighted, magnetic Klein tools level. Everything is overkill here IMO but of course there's noting wrong with that. I only found two things I would have done different and one of those things is the 1.5" PVC moves up to 2" because its easier to work with and two, the grounding electrode conductor (ground rods) no matter the size of the service is always going to be 6AWG. #4 copper is used as the grounding electrode conductor to the copper water main. I'm very impressed with your video.
Thank you! Great minds think alike when it comes to tools! and Yeah I would have preferred to use a 2in pvc but there wasn’t enough room with the pre-existing KOs on the box. As far as the sizing of the grounding electrode I just followed the chart in the code book for sizing of that. Luckily if it is oversized it doesn’t hurt anything lol Thank you again!
@DownToTheFrame would be great to have no pre stamped ko's on panels.use Greenlee ko set .mark it,drill it,punch it.
@@frankm5019 that would have made life a LOT easier lol
@@DownToTheFrame Why couldn't you drill a larger hole where the knockout was to fit a larger 2 inch PVC pipe? Was the bottom too small? If not is there any code saying not to drill it?
@@tatersinc there simply wasn’t enough blank material in the bottom rod the box. I would have preferred a box that didn’t have pre-stamped knock outs that way I would have had more options
Very informative
Thank you!
Well done.
Thank you!
Nice job, the only last thing I see is the service entrance cable up in the house there I know it’s temporary but it wouldn’t meet code because it’s not Protective it’s not along the side of a joist, you could protect it with a metal plate of equal thickness like a metal box or get those wires into some sort of pipe, keep up the good work
It met code where I am and passed inspection but an ideal way to do it is to continue the PVC conduit or even EMT. The more protection the merrier!
check out the pro tip of the day from The Electrical Code Coach regarding the ser cable you used to feed your sub panel. When using that cable as a sub panel feeder it needs to be landed on a 90 amp double pole breaker in your new outdoor main panel instead of the 100 amp double pole breaker you installed. I made the same mistake when I added a sub panel in my basement and have since corrected my mistake.
Hey Paul! I am looking into your question further. Unfortunately, the video that channel posted does not explain his reasoning. So far based on the thermal tables in the code book, for the type of SER I used, I have not found any issues with using a 100 amp breaker but the electrical field has many overlapping rules so I will try to confirm in the next couple of days! To clarify, I believe that video is talking about burying the cable in a wall cavity with insulation. Which does change how much amperage conductors can carry according to the code book. In this instance, my cable is not buried in a wall.
So I have reviewed the code and consulted with some very experienced colleagues. More than likely the reason that guy said to only use 90amps is because of most terminals only being rated to 75c. Which if you rate the cable at 75c instead of 90c you get 90amp max rating. However, there is a chart in the code book specifically for feeder wiring. Sub panel wiring is considered feeder wiring. That chart states you can use 2 AWG aluminum. Also, there is a section that states to rate wiring that touches insulation in a wall cavity at 60c. However, it is only for 10 AWG wire and smaller. So 2 AWG aluminum does not apply. Lastly, loads calculated for panels are only allowed to be at most 83% of the load. Which is less than 90amps anyway. So the wiring won’t see anything more than that. Using a 100amp breaker according to this information is safe and to code.
In a residential application you are allowed to use the 83% rule on your service wires and feeder only if the feeder is carrying a 100% of the load. By installing a meter combo and feeding your ac, your feeder to the sub panel does not carry 100% of the load. That means you have to size the feeder wire according to the load. And breaker it accordingly. 90amp wire=90amp breaker.
Thanks for a great video! We are building a small RV park in Middle Tennessee and getting ready to install a 200A service mounted to the side of 8'x8' utility outbuilding we have constructed on our 35 acre lot. We also believe in doing things right and overbuilding for the future. QQ: If the meter base on the outside is directly opposite the distribution panel on the the inside of the building, what would we use to go through the 1" exterior wall? It's too narrow for terminal adapters in each box. #comettroy
you could use what we call a threaded chase nipple or a fully threaded nipple this allows out to mount cabinets right next to each of other or back to back
Lol your gf saying bye boys while you were doing the Titanic scene on the ladder was easily the best part of this video. Edit: Also why do trade guys get upset with locknut wrenches? XD
haha it was also a favorite moment of mine! and I don’t know lol Old guys like to work harder
Great work!!!! If you hired an electrical contractor and had him do everything you did it would add $2000 to the price!
Thank you! Haha and yes it would be an expensive bit of work but sometimes doing things the ideal way cost a little more money. Luckily things like this don’t need to be touched for decades.
Just curious why you separated Neutrals and Grounds in the Bonded Combo panel ? Great detailed video! Nice clean work.
Great question! they are still bonded together but i like to keep things organized grounds and neutrals on their own bar.
Perfect. That’s what I figured. I’m a big fan of keeping everything neat as well!! I actually “wrap “ the neutral and Ground together full length. Does the #6 ground have to be in conduit ?
PVC schedule 40 for your riser pipe with your weatherhead on the outside were you guys located
New Hampshire. Live Free or Die
ty!
You’re most certainly welcome!
Great video ! What’s the size of wire you used from the main to sub panel ? 1-1-1-3 ?
it’s actually 2-AWG aluminum 3 wire. 2-hots, neutral, and a ground
and thank you! Sorry for the late response I’ve had a bit of a cold!
Where does the other ground wire connect to? because I saw 2 inside the meter box.
One goes to the sub-panel inside the house.
You da man!
Thanks!
Masters!!
I wish!
@@DownToTheFrame Trust me i'm a finish carpenter, No electrician is going to put azek under the meter and also under all your clip locations they will just screw through the siding.
haha that is true. It takes a lot of work
thanks for the detail!
You’re welcome!
Hi is it somewhere in the box you could hook up (mount)the hot wire
I’m sorry I am not sure I fully understand your question. If you have specific questions about where to connect specific wires in a specific UL listed enclosure I would contact a local electrician for assistance.
Sorry if someone else asked but why does the Sub Panel ground bar and neutral bar need to be unbonded/ disconnected? And aren't they connected by touching the metal of the inside of the breaker box itself?
Great question! It comes down to where we want the electricity, in the even of a fault to ground, to go. If we bounded each sub panel there is the possibility that the fault current could energize the grounds. This creates a condition known as “objectionable current” or parts of the system being energized when they shouldn’t be. We want the fault current to return to the source, spike the amps, and trip the circuit. Ground bars do touch the case but neutral bars are actually isolated from the case via insulated spacers. The only time they are not, is when there is a screw or strap that connects it to the case. I hope that helped!
Also , did the inspector catch the 6 AWg versus 4 AWG? Just getting ready to upgrade my service and I’m reading conflicting ground wire sizes ? Thanks
Another great question! So I actually did swap it out for a 4 AWG but technically, if you can find it in the code book, there is a bit of a grey area saying you can use 6 AWG if it is not susceptible to damage.
So when the interior main panel essentially became a sub panel. You un-bonded the ground and neutral. Did you run a new ground from the earth to the ground bus? Or is that ground bus just attached to the panel and isolated on its own?
Great question! There is a new grounding system attached to the new panel. Then from there I ran a ground with my sub panel feeder conductors to the sub panel and that is what connects the grounding systems
Hi thanks for the video,
What are you using to mount the Azac? Is it an impact drill or what kind of attachment/bolt? Thanks
You’re welcome! and I used the Azek branded fasteners. It comes in a kit with a special drill bit, screws, and plugs
Are those GRK screws mounting the panel going through the Azek and into the studs or just through the azek?
I'm installing a panel for the first time and just trying to wrap my brain around all that it entails. Any tips or tricks?
And I did go through an apprenticeship, I just work as a theme park electrician not a residential/construction one 😂
I love it! Great to hear you are learning how to do this work! Ideally you find a stud to at least mount one side to. However, in this application I knew that me sheathing is 3/4 which is plenty of thickness to hold the outdoor rated GRK screws I used. The screws should be long enough to go through the Azek (because it’s not structural) and then into the wood behind.
This looks killer man, amazing work, my only recommendation is using an expansion coupling/joint on the conduit coming up into the meter, so much more leeway to make errors and getting that glued up final mock up into the bottom of the can. Super Clean install nonetheless
Thank you! and that’s a great idea! A little more pricey but would have been a lot easier.
Great video and super clean looking. A couple of suggestions to make it less dizzying to watch in a few places. If your editing software doesn't have a smoothing function, the GoPro 9 and above has a "hyper-smooth" mode which looks great right out of the camera. Also and/or mounting the camera to your chest instead of head would help also. Had to take some Dramamine but only because I couldn't stop watching! Thanks again for your efforts!
Haha I’ll look into some ways to keep it smooth for everyone 😎 Thank you for the constructive criticism!
Fuking awesome
Love the energy Dave!
Nice work, I think you are just talking about a brand name for what is PVC board that you're mounting the meter can to? PVC board right? Do you know how well thay holds up to UV?
Yes, Azek is a plastic product that is very durable. Check out their website if you’re interested in more information!
Great work. Very professional installation
Thank you Aaron!
Hi, we got estimates to upgrade our panel. The estimates varies so much with one almost only half of it and he told me that underground feed will be done by the electricity company if needs to be redone. Would you please advise if this is the right assessment and information? Thank you so much.
That’s a great question. If you are curious if your local utility will install the underground part to your house, you can call them directly and ask! I can’t confirm or deny if that is true because it varies per town/state. In my state, it is the electricians job to put the underground conduit and wire in.
Could bonding ground and neutral at the meter provide better “stability” of current then at the panel? I’m not sure how to define “stability” because I’m not an electrician. But, my family is dealing with an issue that nobody can seem to get to the bottom of: whole house tremoring lights. I’ve had 3 electricians come out and all the easy possibilities (loose neutrals, bad bulbs or switches, bad transformer, etc.) checked out okay. One electrician said upgrading the service line to bond at the meter instead of the panel could possibly fix this, but he can’t guarantee it. What would you do?
This is a great question! No, I don’t think that will help. You need the right electrician to solve this problem. It being the whole house does lead me to believe that you may have a main service issue and if you don’t already have a 200amp panel, it might be worth it to upgrade the service
Did the Power Company increase the SIZE of the drop wire to the resistance?
They increased the triplex size probably to account for future electrical demand on our home. It more than likely would have worked fine with the existing triplex
I know you have to install ground rods, but can you explain to me why the utility company doesn't provide a ground?
Great question! The answer is probably money / the authority having jurisdiction in the municipality
Can you use pvc as a mast/riser? Have only ever used rigid.
Great question! I don’t know the exact answer. If the PVC extends past a certain point it will more than likely sag in the sunlight. It for sure cannot be used as a point of attachment for the triplex. You will need to have a much more sturdy material as a point of attachment. There is a section of the code the explains acceptable points of attachment.
Your a boss
hahaha best comment yet!
Can you explain why you do not bond neutral and ground in sub panels?
Great question! The simple answer is that you end up creating more than one path way for fault current to travel back to its source. This means you may potentially energize wires or anything grounded in certain circumstances.
@@DownToTheFrame shortest most simple answer I've come across thus far. Thanks for answering my question.
@@Prodigal450 You’re welcome! Anytime!
Did you use 2/0 Copper from meter to sub?
I used 2awg 4 wire aluminum SER and limited it with a 100amp breaker
I like the idea of the Azek and will probable use it on my new build in the spring. As for the J trim that you showed in the one clip was cool it suddenly change to something else when the siding was up. It now looks like a picture frame. Could you tell me what you used?
I’m glad you like it! I just used white J channel from homedepot that matched the same depth as what was already on my house. It should be readily available!
Thanks so much. Earlier the J channel that you showed was the same as the siding and was confused. The white was a good choice.
@@stevenfrank5971 Yeah I didn’t have enough of the green but the white worked out okay! Thank you!
one last question. What did you use to fill the screw holes in the Azek? The video was to quick to make out. Thanks Again
Azek has a kit that comes with a drill bit, screws, and plugs!
nice details.... couple of things I noticed that were 'oddities'... but are you a licensed electrician? If so, I wonder how long you have been in the trade? PS - I am not ripping on you or anything. I am just curious. Clean work in the end!
I am not a licensed electrician. I was an industrial apprentice electrician for about two years. This was my first and only residential service that I did
I had love your video I’m learning electricity by video I would like to know how to do it like you
Thank you! If you ever have any questions please ask! I’ll help if I can!
Two questions hopefully someone can answer. Towards the end of the video, after he installs the conduit for the grounding rods, he skips forward and then there are three pieces of conduit. The left one is the main to the LB, the middle one is the grounding. Then there's one on the right with a box st the bottom that just appeared magically. What is that and how is it installed? Second, why did he use a 1-1/2" conduit for 200 Amp? NEC says 200 Mp needs 2". In my area of Vermont, we require 2-1/2". Why the 1-1/2"?
Great questions! First, the third piece of conduit just goes to a 20amp receptacle so i can plug lawn tools into it. I used 2 inch conduit for the 4/0 wires going from the weather head to the meter. The 1.5 inch conduit goes into the house feeding a 100amp sub panel. In the future i will need to add more conduits for other sub panels
never saw service cable running exposed like that here in Pa. thought it had to be in conduit of buried by 4" of crete
Not sure what eyes you’re referring to. Are you talking about my service conductors coming from the poll or my grounding electrode conductor?
Does the mater have to be changed? Can old one be replaced?
The meter box does need to be changed but the meter can remain the same
Should of used 2 AWG copper to match the 200 amp line side of the service u did all that work to give you the same 100 amp panel u had on the old service ?
I am in the works of collecting material for replacing the panel inside. I wanted a cheap option to get the house powered while I planned the rest of the electrical upgrades. I will for sure be posting a video of those upgrades in the future! and I will be swapping out the 2/0 aluminum for 2/0 copper to allow for 175amps inside the house.
Awesome, also forgot to mention u did a real nice n clean job outside
Quick ? the inspector didn’t say anything about the house service head not being above utility line service just wondering because here in NY it’s code
@@phillyelectric7043 I did not see anything about that in the requirements from my power company and the inspector did not mention it so I don’t believe that is code. The weather head is also right in-line with the weather head
Could only hope all Electrical Contractors were this clean, only one issue, 10' to Gas tanks not 3' in NH - everything else is awesome....
Thank you! And the inspector actually referenced the 3 foot rule when he did my inspection. Not sure why he didn’t mention this 10ft rule. I will be getting rid of those tanks eventually anyway. I will keep that in mind for the future!
I’m up grading to a 200 amp service, and my outside meter and mr inside panel are over 6 ft apart I’m going to use steel conduit. DOES MY DISCONECT have to be fuseable ?
I was going to buy a blade box and put emergency disconnect on panel. I live in Detroit
You will need to check your local code but I always recommend a main breaker outside the house. This allows all power in the house to be shut off in an emergency or trip and protect all wires inside your house.
@@DownToTheFrame thank you. I went to the inspector office he went on about how he spent all this money to go to school why should he tell me, lmao.. Might have to call for the inspection and hope it’s not the same guy take the hit and show what I’ve done..
I will keep trying to find my local code,, thx again for replying!!
10:59 😂 Adorable!!! Nothing like another pair of hands I guess!!
haha just friends helping friends!
Some aluminum that manufactured today does not require you to use antioxidant compound on the aluminum conductor.
That’s a good piece of info! I’m always trying to make sure things are extra well built so I personally will probably always use Noalox on my aluminum terminations.
That's not true.
Aluminum is aluminum. You don't know what you're talking about.
They have better alloys in the aluminum that is produced today compared to aluminum produced in rhe 1970s.
It’s worth it for peace of mind even if that’s true. With all the money spent a little antioxidant is a small expense
💪🏼💪🏼
Any source of ignition for LP needs 10’ not 3’ I suggest you have contacted Irving which is their supplier because when the provider stops filling those tanks you’ll be stuck picking up the cost to move the tank.
Inspector cleared it and Irving has been filling the tanks for a year now. No complaints. I agree that it should be as far away from gas sources as possible. I am in the process of eliminating gas from the house anyway.
Yeah, 3’ from those seemed like a bad idea, code or not. Plus, going to the other side of that window would have hidden the install more from street view.
Will a welder trip that surge protector?
I don’t think it will. As long as the welder doesn’t produce it’s own electricity
Plastic riser? Is that allowed in your jurisdiction?
Great question! Yes, Schedule 40 PVC conduit is allowed. You cannot use it as a point of attachment though.
Foam inside the LB?
It is code to seal the conduit that the feeder enters through
Schedule 80 PVC conduit has the green painted stripe from end to end.
It is 200% more $ than Schedule 40 conduit costs but is NEC
Is it though?
What is on the back of that klein meter? magnet clip where can i get it.
a.co/d/ghdOAeE
That should be the one! It’s awesome!
@@DownToTheFrame it is thanx!!
You’re welcome!
You must be a certified electrician...it you a whole day to put a 2x4 rectangle panel up😂...I can frame a plum house by lunchtime... when you said day two I almost had a heart attack!🤣
haha well i’m glad to hear we have the most skilled framer in the business watching the channel!
@@DownToTheFrame he didn't mention the house he is framing and plumbing is only a 6' x 3' tiny home.
How do you utilize / incorporate the extra capacity / amps?
I will be utilizing it for resistive heating, car charging, and electric oven
@@DownToTheFrame i meant do you have to run greater capacity feeders into the home or something?
You would run the appropriately sized feeders for the size breaker panel you have inside your house.
Aluminum feed wire?
Yes they are
Hi I’m looking to setup a 200 amp panel 100 ft away (above ground, through the attic) I’m wondering which phase sub panel I need for that? Running 4-5 20 amp 110v lines and 2x 20-30 amp 220v lines. Also I’m wondering if this cable will be the correct cable for me to run box to box?:
4/0-4/0-4/0-4/0 Appaloosa Quadruplex Overhead Aluminum Conductor
You will need to reference local and national electrical code. However, I can tell you that for my 200amp panel I used 4/0 aluminum SER (service entrance cable) which contained two hot conductors, a neutral, and a ground. I bonded my grounds and neutrals at the first means of disconnect. For me, this was at my meter socket. Make sure the cable you purchase is rated to be ran inside wall cavities. Cables labeled as “Overhead condusctos” might only be rated to be used outside. The manufacturer information will tell you what it’s rated for.
@@DownToTheFrame thank you for your response! I was doing a lot of research trying to find answers and I noticed 4/0 is rated for 205 amp depending on the material it’s wrapped in. But there was some site that says account for like 20% extra so like 240 amp wires? Also I was seeing that it was recommending XHHW-2? Would I need 250 MCM XHHW-2 or has your meter to panel 200 watts been fine with your 4/0 AWG SER? Also I’m in Arizona where it gets 180 in the attic but of course I can do things to get that lower like adding high cfm vent fans. Thank you for taking the time to help me
@@ChemysteryKids So in the 2020 national electric code there is a chart that tells you what size conductors you need for single phase dwelling service and feeders. The wire you are running is a feeder so according to that chart (no thermal corrections applied) all you would need is 4/0. However, only a licensed electrician could determine if your environment calls for larger conductors due to the heat. There are tests and math involved in that. Aluminum SER would more than likely be what they recommend running.
@@DownToTheFrame awesome thank you! Last question do I need a 2 or 3 phase panel? Running 5x 20 amp 110v sockets, 2-3x 20-30 amp 220v breakers depending on how much and many dedicated lines the mini split requires for 28k btu and the 2nd or third is for my 15 amp compressor
@@ChemysteryKids Your house more than likely only has single phase (two hot conductors) going to it. That means you can have 120v and 240v power. You don’t need three phase unless you need 208/480v power. You seem to be more concerned about amperage and not voltage. Load calculation are very complex. They are based on factors such as, how much current is being drawn, for how long, at what times are the loads being used, if they are motor loads, or non-linear/linear. However, most homes 200amps is plenty. I didn’t hear you mention any car chargers or tankless electric hot water heaters so my best guess is 200amp would be fine. Although again, only a licensed electrician would be able to tell you for sure.
If you meter box has a breaker, would that make your main panel a sub panel
Yes, it would!
Thank you, the electrician out the bonding screw in the main panel which is a sub
@@DownToTheFrame
Yes, removing the bonding screw in the right move. The grounds and neutrals should only be bonded at the first means of disconnect.
one other question. If I want to put a whole house surge protector in, would that go in the sub or the main? Thank you for all of your help! Tom
@@DownToTheFrame
I would personally put the whole house surge protector as close to the main feed of the house as possible. Or if you wanted to, you could put one in every panel. The idea is take catch as much energy from the surge as quickly as you can.
One thing I definitely would have done was put a generator switch plug in at your meter
That is a great idea! I do not have a generator but I do plan on adding one and making a video in the future!
Why do you use pvc? In California we have to use rigid or imc for riser
Great question! I am not using my conduit as an attachment point so there is no need to use ridged. Also, PVC is no conductive. This eliminates the chance of it becoming an inductive choke and causing a fire.
It is required in California. Your right, about attachment point. But even if no attachment point, you still ND rigid or imc
Only way it would cause a fire, if connections are bad. I believe from your knowledge, that it wouldn't on your job
It is not a requirement in NH and the only people saying that it is are from California. Interesting rule but if the neutral is dropped for whatever reason is the main concern. It could be on the pole or damage to the house.
@@DownToTheFrame you guys are lucky, rigid is slot more expensive
Could someone please give me an idea of how much I should pay for this installation? I just got a really high estimate.
Great question Ellen, it will greatly depending on your location and the work that needs to be done. I would recommend calling a couple companies. Pay for them to estimate it. Try to identify the most experienced and knowledgeable option.
Video mark 10:53 Perfect timing, right when the home owner starts to bone his helper on the ladder, the wife comes out of the house and says: "hi boys".
hahaha yeah we thought the timing could not have been better 😂
Thanks for this checking out what im paying for mines in my driveway buddy told me upgrading it id have to put a pole in front of it what the hell! Driveway is soo tiny fml
Yeah so areas make you jump through hoops to get a service installed
Who's the hero that's going to answer my extremely simple question with a yes or a no?
Am I allowed to install an outdoor meter/disconnect directly on vinyl siding without any kind of fancy white vinyl block like the one in this video?
Yes lol
@@DownToTheFrame
Thank you. Not all heroes wear capes🦸♂️
@@theseattlegreen1871 hahaha you’re welcome!
this is in Missouri?
No it is in New Hampshire
Why did u foam the wires inside the LB?
Code requires that you seal the feeder conduit entering the building. There are many methods of sealing it. Just make sure sealant is listed and labeled to be used in that context.
@@DownToTheFrame interesting. I assumed the gasket on the LB cover waterproofed the conduit entry. I dont see that practice here in CA
@@bigtroll8249 It’s not meant for water. It’s meant for fire. It also helps keep the cold out. It is in the 2020 NEC somewhere. I forget the section. We use to do it on pad mount transformers in the industrial world as well.
@@DownToTheFrame ahhh.. I see.
U do clean work BTW. Thx for making videos 🙏
@@bigtroll8249 Thank you!!!
Did you use 2/2/2/4 wire from the main to the sub?
Yes, I did! Limited it with a 100amp breaker
@@DownToTheFrameWhen you wired the SE wire from your main to your sub you connected the red and black to your 100 amp breaker and then you put your neutral and ground wire on the appropriate side bars. But aren't the neutral and ground bars bonded in your main box? My new 200 amp Meter box with breakers only has 1 side bar in it. I assumed this was because it was going to be bonded anyway.
if you have a disconnect at your meter, your panel needs to have the grounds and neutrals separated. Most panels have a bonding screw or bar that is removable. That way they can be separated
@@DownToTheFrameJust wanted to thank you. I passed my inspection on Tuesday of last week. I basically did the same upgrade on a 1900 farm house here in the UP of Michigan. On to tearing off the roof!
@@drewthomasarnal5378You’re welcome! Nice work! It’s so satisfying to have a home powered by your own system
Great video
But school is needed
Electrical theory is a must
thank you! and I agree! Schooling is always needed.
Take it from a fellow granite stater you want to use duct seal where and when ever you can water and frost are not an electricians friend in the northeast especially lol
haha yes I tried to use products rated for the cold but we shall see how it holds up this winter!
nice keynote # Sub Panels you do not bond the ground and the neutral bars they are completely separated. at 32:25
Yep! Separate them neutrals and grounds!
They allow you to rack. Utilities here want service to meet first attachment point
That’s good information! Thank you!
Why run a service mast up the wall if it’s a 2 story house just run the SEU on the wall with 1 hole straps and a service entrance cap, Probably could have saved a couple hundred bucks and some time
Could have but then I would have had a lesser quality product. You can always do things cheaper. You usually compromise quality as a result.
Nice work. I think you should have put an expansion joint pvc on the 10 foot mast ?
Great question! For my situation you do not a expansion fitting. A few reasons are length of the pipe, the pipe not transitioning, and the clips i used allow for expansion
Great question and answer. Good to know
Don’t need expansion joints unless transitioning from underground.
Surge protectors have to be the closest breaker to the main
Interesting the manufacturer installation manual makes no comment about that. I also didn’t find anything in the 2020 NEC code about that. Is that a local code in your area?
So... much... INFORMATION
uh oh! I hope not too much! 😂
Also you said you were in New Hampshire so you’re in a snow zone, why would you put that receptacle down where it’s going to get covered in snow that’s a rookie mistake it should be at the bottom of the panel or right next to it I would never have a foot and a half off the ground if it’s even that
That’s a great idea to make sure snow never comes close to it! Where we are the snow hasn’t come close to it and I think our snow fall is getting less and less
@@DownToTheFrame well I guess that’s good to know, here in Cleveland Ohio we can still get large snow falls they could easily drift or go over 2 feet the only way I would have a receptacle down that low is if it was in a garden or a tree bed for landscape lighting. But for service receptacles they should always be as high as you can get them away from the environment.
@@shockingguyIt is for sure a good idea. I’ll keep it in mind for next time!
So far nice work, but stop using acorns for ground rods, do a proper ground connection with CAD welding, you’ll never have to come back and worry that it’s getting a higher resistance because it’s a permanent irreversible weld connection, they’re only like 10 bucks apiece and suitable for burying, also Tip I learned decades ago, Put your ground rods the distance that they are total in length that far apart, this Hass to do with the physics of how grounding works with multiple rods, so if your ground rods are 8 feet long do you want them a minimum of 16 feet apart it’s not hard to do if you think how to do it
Those are certainly some tips to that can make your ground system even safer than what code requires! Love it!
@@DownToTheFrame Don’t forget all codes are just minimum safe standards they are not best design or best practices. Always work to level up and bring up your game. In the commercial world on commercial buildings or communications towers all grounding has been Cadwelded for decades, The kids for standard residential ground rods are like $10 each and you’re a fool if you’re not using them because then you’re just selling your jobs too cheaply,
@@shockingguy I agree code is minimum. I will have to try out the welding and further spacing in the future!
What size wire from 200 amp to meter?
I used 4/0 Aluminum which complies with the 2020 code book
Ok thx.m Is it better to buy them in a single bundle or just individually through the conduit. #1 and #2 hot and 1 ground or neutar correct?
@@ramongalaz6263 I’m not sure the price difference but either way you can buy 3 wire SER or you can buy 3 separate conductors. You will need two ungrounded conductors (two hots) and a grounded conductor (neutral)
However, I would still recommend consulting a local licensed electrician to answer these questions for you.
Thank you
WHEN ATTACHING TO A GROUND ROD CODE STATES THAT YOU ONLY NEED A #6 MAX #4 WAS NOT NEEDED.
That is correct! However, that is only true if the ground wire is not susceptible to damage. It an area where there can be lawn mowers going by the inspector might want to see it