Singer 401A Review: Will It Sew Hard?
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- Hi!
(Chapter markers for this video are below if you want to skip around.)
In this video, I give you my thoughts on the Singer 401A. While I'm not keeping this one, I think it's an excellent option for someone looking for their first sewing machine or to add to their collection.
Time stamps:
Intro 00:00
Some Sources 02:05
History 03:00
All Metal Machine? 03:44
Overview and Closer Look 06:24
Sewing Performance 10:44
Two Needle Sewing 13:49
Sewing Inner Tube? 14:26
Bar Tacks 15:24
Bobbin Winder 17:31
Closing Thoughts 18:17
Links to sources for some of the information in this video:
ismacs.net
sewingiscool.com
oldsewingear.com
silverbobbin.com
If you like what I do, you can help me to continue by purchasing merchandise from my Spring store - teespring.com/stores/the-jaso...
Want to buy some fabric for your next project? Check out Ripstop By The Roll - ua-cam.com/users/redirect?even...
(AFFILIATE LINK, if you purchase using this link I will receive a small commission at no extra charge to you)
Check out my other UA-cam channel, TheJasonWINS (When I'm Not Sewing) for videos on some of the other things I enjoy (sometimes sewing-related, often not). - / @thejasonwins3765
You can also follow me on Instagram - / thejasonofalltrades
Thanks for watching! - Навчання та стиль
My Grandfather bought this brand new for my Mom in 1958, and she used it for decades. It's mine now, and it still runs!!!
I inherited the 401a from my mother who was the original owner of it, brand new, in 1957. It is my favorite machine. In the 70's (when it was still her primary machine) she noticed that it was jamming and leaving bird's nests in the bobbin case and could not figure out why. Neither could the different technicians she brought the machine to for a diagnosis. So she gave the machine to me, along with the bobbins she was using, some plastic bobbins and some metal bobbins (plastic bobbins had become popular in the 70's so she bought a slew of them). I started to notice that the jamming happened only when I was using the plastic bobbins! When I tried the metal bobbins there was no problem with jamming. I think the weight of the metal bobbins kept them from jumping around in the bobbin case, and the plastic bobbins had too much movement and threw everything off, hence the bird's nests. In thinking back to when she would bring the machine to the technicians, I suspect they were probably using metal bobbins, because they would insist that there was no problem to fix when they gave the machine back to her. Moral of the story - only use metal bobbins in this machine and it will be humming wayyyyyy longer than any of us are alive!
Not the "metal bobbins" made now... They are made in China and far from the quality of "1957" bobbins.. If a plastic bobbin "has too much movement", it is the wrong size.
Yes, I am talking Singer bobbins made back in the 60’s and 70’s, not currently made. Also, the clear plastic bobbins she was using were made at that time too; they were Singer brand bobbins, which leads me to believe it is a weight issue rather than size. They were identical in size to the metal bobbins. I threw out all the plastic bobbins.
@@jeffreymarine5715 In regard to the plastic, it is a size issue due to the lack of quality control of the Chinese made bobbins. As for the metal bobbins made now, they are cheaply made with zagged centers that catch thread ( this has been an issue since the late 1960's with Asian made bobbins ). Years ago, a very esteemed Singer repairman told me never to use metal bobbins on a Slantomatic machine, due to the fact they wear the bottom of the metal bobbin case thin and cause jamming..
There was one point in my life where I literally had over a thousand different machines at my house. Even code enforcement came and made me get rid of most of them. I just gave them all away I had about 50 featherweights, brothers, You name it. I had them all. This machine is by far my favorite machine of all time. It's amazing. The best machine ever made in my opinion. This is coming from a man by the way.
Wow. That is an amazing comment. I have a 201 i just love. I am looking for an equivalent in a zig zag. I have a Bernina 117. She is a beast. I had a 206. Didn’t really get on with her. Looking at the 400 and 500. And Kenmore 158 line - they seem fiddly.
That's reassuring ! Its my first sewing machine and was worried of the fact that it was slanted, but if you love it ouf of a thousand, must mean someting lol
Also, why did Code Enforcement made you get rid of them ??
@@dbrn_1562 code enforcement came because I had too many sewing machines all over the backyard, etc....
@@5onCover thanks... I mean, don't get me wrong,... There are definitely more capable machines out there, but the build quality, ease of use and selectable built-in cams puts this machine at the top of my list.
For a beginner who discovered this machine in my husband’s closet among grandma’s things, this was very helpful thank you!
I’ve been sewing on this machine for 20 years and love it. Never had an issue. 30$ at a garage sale.
Does it sew zig zag
Best zig zag sewing machine ever made second to none
A textilite gear has never been known to crack, fail or lose teeth as far as I know.
I personally have a 403a. That thing can out sew most modern home machines. Hands down.
I really like the phrase "arsenal of machines." I don't have a collection, I have an arsenal. Much more impressive that way. 👍
I was told the A stood for America as I have the 401G which is German built. I bought mine last week for 40 British pounds with 7 cams. Very good sturdy machine, I repaired a seam on a heavy duty coat no issues at all.
Yes and 401J has been made in St-Johns, Canada
About 5 years ago I decided to tackle a sewing project, and not having a machine at the time, I bough a cheap, used vintage Singer that needed some love to make work again. Did my project (couch cushions for my camper, using Cordura).. and ended up "collecting" another dozen or so machines over the last few years! All needed some work, but they were able to be brought back to 100% functionality with nothing but some time, cleaning and proper lubrication.
Mostly Singers, some other American made (Kenmore etc) and a really nice Japanese Elgin :) All were found at yard sales, CL thrift stores etc.. Everything from Treadle machines from the 1900's to the early '70's and I doubt I spent $300 for ALL of them!
Thanks for the overview Jason, looks like a neat machine.
I appreciate everything you showed in video. Very informative for me & helped me make a decision on buying one I found on FB market place for a great price. Thank You!
Very informative video,showing what it will sew and not,love the 2 needle stitch
Hello Jason. I always appreciate your videos. I was recently gifted a Singer 238k that came with a case very similar to the one
you show here. I plan to take it to a shop and have it workedon. Thanks again for the video. KB.
Just got one at an estate sale. Thank you for the vid.
I learned to sew on a 401 as a kid. My first machine as an adult when I began sewing again was another 401. My projects eventually outgrew it and I upgraded to a 20U-33. Then to a Consew 206 for a walking foot and Pfaff 138 for drop feed straight/zigzag. For a light weight, portable, versatile machine that can do delicate and still have remarkable power for size, the 401 is a great machine. The direct drive gives it that power. They can still be found for a decent price if you aren't in a hurry to buy, but have seen a major increase in asking price due to sew many people looking for stuff to do since being stuck at home. I picked up one recently at the flea market for $20. Didn't really neeeeed it, but couldn't pass up such a great deal. The 500 is almost the same machine functionally, and love it for the "Rocketeer" styling.
What size needle is the best to use the whole is not big to hold a 14/90 needle am in Africa for now
Love my 401. I have the G (made in Germany). I use it for everything including free motion embroidery. It came with all accessories including a plastic (?) plate which fits over the feed dogs and allows the fabric to slide when doing frree motion. I dress up t shirts with my own or grandchildren's drawings using this technique. My machine handles this with ease ❤
The 400 series has some really cool variant machines. The white whale for me is the 431g. It can chainstitch, has an updated bobbin mechanism, and can convert to a free arm machine
Thanks Donnie!
The 431G came up in my reading and I immediately added it to my "wish list," that's a really interesting machine!
@@1953childstar Have 2 401G machines. The chainstitch parts were never installed at the factory. They were in the 411G and the 431G.
I'm in UK & got 3 x 431Gs. Top of the line for the 400 series. But be aware of the snags: ) Broken/damaged throat plate pins, for example!
@@mehere779 You correct. 401s were never capable of chaining, but they could be converted. Why bother if the 411 & 431 had it from new? You need the right throat plates & bobbin case though!! Depends what the machine comes with second hand: ) Buyer beware! Very cool machines though.
Thanks! Very helpful
Thank you for this video.
Thank you again for a good basic review of a globally produced sewing machine made in large numbers. So the possibility for people to find such a machine is quite high. I have newer tried a slant needle machine. I have seen some critics, that a slant needle machine can have more issues with heavier thread and fabrics. But as far as I can see from your review, it is no big issue.
I use a 403A, these machines are beasts. I sew leather on mine all day.
The 401 had most of the decorative stitches built in, but apparently there was not room for the last 4 designs, so you could buy the 4 cams and then have all of them. I wonder with 3D printers, if you could not design more cams.
That double needle stitch is pretty darn neat. Would be a very good machine for making jeans and the like I think! As you generally don't really need the power of a industrial, nor a walking foot, but more power than modern domestic machines.
The 401A works great on jeans. You don’t even need a hump jumper. I just altered some jeans for my slim, 90-year-old mother. Like butter!
Thanks for the good vid. It reaffirms for me how lucky I was to buy one as a 'pig in a poke' the day I decided to learn to sew. Went on FB and found one a mile away for $80. I had no idea what I was
buying or how much I should be paying. I put a lot of miles on it and overworked it quite a bit, not knowing how much to push a household machine. Graduated to Sailrite but still have 401.
I always enjoy your content and delivery. Cheers.
Thanks Gary!
I had a 401a then sold it when I got my 201. Between the 201, Sailrite, Feathetweight and a modern Pfaff, we can make anything from quilts to bike packing bags with cotton, nylon, Cordura, X-Pac, etc, etc.
I appreciated this honest review. You're always very clear about your far tougher than usual needs and expectations.
I have several machines, this is my go-to for when I need perfect stitches in difficult materials. Singer marketed it as a no-compromises, best as can be made machine and it is. It was also, sadly, both the best Singer quality ever made and the last Singer quality ever made. It was straight downhill afterwards to today's trash. When I look at the stylist line....the horror of it all.
The only thing I don't do on it is material for which my 214-12 was made to do 24/7.
I did upgrade my speed control to a high-quality electronic a while back. I'll put this machine up against any for stitch quality.
The gear that is driven by the motor is a "Micarta Phenolic Gear", and has been used since the 1920's in automobiles for camshaft drive and starter motors. General Electric patented their version as "Texolite" and the material is used in combination with metal for a "quiet mesh" and electrical "Non- conductivity".. In the case of a motor meshing with metal housing. Phenolic gears are made using "whisper-thin" layers of fabric formed under massive pressure, using liquid Phenolic. Early Bernina sewing machines used these gears before they used nylon in the late 1950's and Singer used this same gear on the first electric machine with a built in motor ( The #101- made in the 1920's ), then the #201 and so on.
That's great info, thanks for sharing!
Enjoy your content as always! I think the reason some people think the Singer 237 isn't "all metal" is the upper tension gear is plastic. I have yet to get my hands on a slant needle machine, but will be keeping an eye out.
Well, I would consider the 237 an "all metal" machine, because all the parts moved by motor is made of metal. I have seen some discussion on this issue due to the plastic race gate, because some is broken in time, but you can still get a new good race gate as a replaceable part. You are right, that the tensioner is of plastic, and the plastic bar to the tension release pin may be broken. However I documented how to repair that problem.
Great content Jason...I have and enjoy a 403A...same machine but you need fashion cams to do ZZ and fancy stitches. I've sewn some pretty heavy material, usually limited only by what will fit under the presser foot. Hope your cats are well, we don't see them as often in the new studio. 🐱
Thanks Gary!
The cats are happy and well; I actually recently filmed a video at the house to include them, but the lighting was so awful I canned it. I've actually been a bit busy with work lately, but I have a couple of projects to do at home that will give them a chance to get their screen time :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The negatives are this machine is noisy - not loud but certainly noisy due to the motor gear. The pattern, stich width and plate lifting knobs are clumsy to use due to innovative design. The cam transmission shaft can rub causing vibrations. On thick fabrics the needle tip can deflect at speed and hit the shuttle hook bending the hook tip which causes permanent thread breakage. Many positives. Very light weight for it's size (all aluminum casing), lots of harp space, excellent light, unmatched needle area visibility, drop in bobbin, easy to replace needle(s) and presser foot, easy to thread the needle, great tensioner and presser foot tension knob (not metered). Decent wiring for that era but the two wire connector nuts inside the top of the machine are fragile and can cause electric short (replace with newer better connectors). Fairly weird 'button' type control pedal.
You can do the special stitches shown under the top cover. Just flip it up and choose the stitch pattern you want. Then use the dial to select the letters that correspond. For example JP. Pull the back dial (cream color) to choose the first letter, and then push the tan dial and turn to select the second letter.
Most of the cams are just duplicates of stitches that are already built into the machine. I thought my mom had lot or sold her cams, but found them in the cabinet. My cabinet is slightly different from yours, but on the left side there is a panel that opens when you push it. There is a small section like a open drawer, and that’s where I found my lost cams. So if that cabinet came with the machine, the cams may just be hidden in the secret drawer.
Patti
Thanks for the info! I looked carefully, and there is no hidden compartment on the table mine is in, but that's good to know - I've had other tables that had compartments as you describe.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Correct! You don't need special cams to do lots of decorative stitching, thanks to the built-in cam and dial options. Pretty sure all of the stitches shown under the lid beneath the spool spindles are doable with no extra cams. Would be great if Jason could update that part of the video. Don't want to dissuade anyone from buying one of these if they can!
@@thejasonofalltrades The "hidden" compartment is under the thread spool spindles. You actually lifted up the lid to it briefly during the video. I was telling you, Wait! You can do all those stitches without any extra cams! Another fantastic feature of this machine.
Great video and an awesome choice!
The 401A and the 500 are virtually the same machine with mostly cosmetic differences. The 403 and 503 are also very similar. IMHO the 400s are more durable machines than the 500s but the 500s have the cool factor. The 403 is like the 401 except that it does NOT have all the stitches built in and relies on cams for all the decorative stitches. Being less complex it is easier to clean and maintain and I believe it is actually better than the flagship 401. Since I only use zigzag (but have the option for other decorative stitches) I would much prefer the 403 over teh 401 because it is less complex And for durability, I like the 400s over the two 500s. However, out of all of these machines the 404 straight-stitch machine is my favorite. It is less complex than all the others and and beefy and ready to roll There is no 500 counterpart to the 404. There are 400 German series machines which are really hard to find but really awesome! You cannot go wrong with any of these machines, and they use standard needles and awesome drop-in bobbins. I like the ability to see the work closer with the slant and I have never had any problems, however, some might say the slant machines aren't as good as straight up and down ones for piercing. The 301 is also another awesome single-stitch speed demon and cool slant machine but I don't like the bobbins. However, I prefer the 404.
The 400s and 500s are IMHO the best domestic vintage Singer sewing machines for a variety of reasons. Unlike the 201 and the 15-91 these machines can be worked on easily and they don't need to be rewired. The bobbin rotates completely around, they have an internal motor that is easily worked on/replaced and they are light. The 66 bobbins are easy to use as well.
From an engineers perspective the slant needle should make the needle enter tough hard fabric far easier then a straight needle machine. (See my input on the machine)
@@chucklenz9011 I'm not an engineer, but I do leatherwork and have multiple heavy commercial machines and own this machine as well. After my using this machine, I have a feeling that the slant is actually weaker. I would guess that the fact that none of the heavy commercial machines are slant needle proves my hunch is correct. Placing the pressure straight down on the needle would be the best when punching through thick material. As Jason says, the benefit to slant is a better view of your material.
@@jenniferstephenson True, the "slant" has a tendency to deflect and break a needle.
@@1953childstar if you consider that the material is moving through the machine front to rear as the needle drops down wouldn’t it seems the machines ability to sew through heavier material would be better, but this might give the operator the idea to sew materials far in excess to the machines ability. Now I have a Sailrite Fabricator and when compared to a strictly straight stitch machine for the price and the ability to sew a stitch ever 1 to 2 seconds through the heaviest material I’ve even sewn material to 1/4 inch plywood. With the appropriate chisel point needle. So I guess in those instances where people have broken needles on the slant head singers I would surmise they didn’t use the appropriate needle. (As a guess without being there)
I have the Rocketeer I think it’s a 501? It’s a good reliable little machine. I don’t love the pop up throat plate for quilting. But I have an electronic one for that. I’ll take a vintage machine everyday over a big box store brand new plastic one.
Omg I have the same sowing machine it’s my first an I love it I do sow a make Jean backpack purse an she’s been awesome so far Iam a new be at sowing an Iam good 👍 I just don’t no to much about my 401A ❤
I use a 401 as my daily sewer. Once I centered the needle and set the timing it is a work horse. Another good beginner sewing machine is a Singer 1966, 628 Touch and Sew. Most of the ones made in 1966 have all metal gears. They sew well and are a hoot to use.
Only the 620 series Touch and Sew machines made in the spring of 1966 perhaps had metal gears. By the end of Summer, beginning of Fall of 1966 they were "Poly/Nylon"..
I was under the impression that you didn't need cams for this machine. I thought that the cans were built into it and that's what the settings are for. Please correct me if I'm wrong. It's just that you mentioned that you couldn't do any of the stuff but that's what The front knobs in the center or for. Under the lid will tell you which setting the knob needs to be on for that stitch.
The 401A uses "top hat" style removable cams for some special stitches, others are built in. I very rarely use any of these special stitches, so I'm not sure which are built in on this machine, and I no longer own it. So yes, some stitches can be done without cams, but others require the cams.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
The only thing I dont like about my 401 is, it's so loud compared to my Pfaff 130 and Singer 201's (I have 4 and a 1200.) It is a cool machine though, I'm currently cleaning it up to gift it to a friend that wants to learn to sew.
Jason thanks for another great vid. I just scored one of these. I heard you say you gifted yours to a friend but I still have a question. I cannot see a serial number on mine. Any idea where I should look?
Hi! I actually just walked over and looked at the machine I gave to my friend, and at a quick glance I couldn't find the serial number, either. If you aren't familiar with ISMACS, they are a great source of info on vintage machines, there might be some info there. Sorry!
I own this machine and I abused it to high heaven and it never faltered. It is my understanding the A designates American and the G designation is for German and the E is European, with the G designated machines far superior to either of the other machines…I don’t know this for a fact I’ve just been told this by a German friend who had a G machine and has used mine. I enjoyed you review although it is not in detail on the double needle setup and ability.
The "A" represents "Anderson South Carolina", which is the Singer factory that manufactured the slant needle Singer machines.
Yes, A for Anderson.
Pleas help me and tell me how to adjust needle postition in front to back axle on this machine.
Hi!
I recently discovered your channel when I was looking at ways to use old materials at the bike shop where I work. I would love to take a crack at making a wallet out of tubes or a bag of some kind, but don't have a sewing machine and my sewing experience is limited to patching ripped jeans by hand. I'm hoping you might be able to suggest a starter machine that can get the job done?
Thank you!
Hi!
OK, so the best and easiest way to sew inner tubes is with a walking-foot sewing machine. Unfortunately, these can be quite expensive compared to good-quality vintage domestic machines. I have a video called "What Kind Of Machine Should I Buy" that goes into some detail about the differences between these machines, you might want to check it out. (That video is pretty much my answer to your question about recommending a starter machine, as well!)
If a walking-foot machine is not in your budget, there are tricks that might make sewing inner tubes on a vintage domestic machine more feasible; a teflon foot, sewing the inner tube between layers of newspaper, a piece of scotch tape applied to the bottom of the foot are a couple of examples. I hasten to add that I tried a walking-foot attachment on a domestic machine, and it made the machine WORSE at sewing inner tubes, so I do NOT recommend that as a solution.
The reason inner tubes are difficult with a non-walking-foot machine is the bottom layer is pretty easily pushed along by the feed dogs, but the top layer has a great deal of friction with the stationary presser foot, so the layers don't feed evenly (typically the top layer doesn't really move at all). It's possible that gluing the layers together before sewing, or maybe even taping with "seamstick" tape might help, but honestly I haven't tried that. Maybe I should!
I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
My grandmother sewed with her 1920's singer, my mom had one of these new fangled ones just like this
Try a Singer 404. It is a slant machine, like the 401a, also with an internal motor, but straight stitch only. It's got beefier parts than the 401a, and is even better suited for heavy duty sewing than the 401a. I have both and prefer sewing with the 404. The 404 is more powerful and beefier than the 201 and 301.
The 404 usually sells for less than the 401a, too.
What would be a fair price for one in great condition?
Will turning on the light start the machine?I turned light on has a knee pressure foot and it still wont sew what can be wrong?
Hi!
I no longer have this machine, and I can't remember if the light switch is also the power switch, but if it isn't, then it's always on and should work when the light is on anyway. So, if the light is on (therefore the machine is plugged in and has power), it's something else.
You say the machine has a knee lever. That lever presses against the pedal that would otherwise be on the floor and activated by your foot. Check to see if the lever is actually pushing the "button" part of the pedal, it may have moved out of position somehow. You can also remove the pedal from the bracket (it can take some effort, be careful) and try using it as a foot pedal. If the pedal is there and pressing the pedal doesn't do anything, there is an electrical issue - the pedal isn't plugged in to the machine or properly connected, there is a break in the wiring, etc.). Be VERY careful if you suspect wiring issues!!! Find a qualified repair person if you aren't confident that you can inspect it safely, and UNPLUG the machine when inspecting the wiring.
My hunch is the knee lever isn't properly engaging the pedal. Let me know how it turns out! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Roller feet, widely available, are probably as good for slippery materials as the rather disappointing walking feet available for domestic machines.
I have also seen mixed reviews regarding the walking feed attachments for domestic machines. I think you mean roller feet with small rollers - right? I have used big roller feet and feet with a slid to the back, and they improve feed significantly, because the thread tension as in most cases pulls against the feed. But with thinner fabrics you can get more variation in stitch balance, when the food do not have the edge for upper thread to go under.
@@sewingmachinesindetail Yes, normal-sized feet with small rollers.
I've been using my grandmothers 503A for 20 years, pretty indestructable, and handles almost anything, until I have the same feeding issues. I was curious how it compared to the new Singer "HD" modes- which claims to handle thicker, utility materials.
Modern Singer HD machines definitely don’t stack up against the 400 series singers.
I have very little experience with the modern Singer machines, but there is only so much that a non-walking-foot machine can feed, and I don't see a newer machine doing it any better. I know a lot of people like their HDs, but I strongly suspect the vintage machines will outlast any current machine in the long run, and sew just as well if not better. I'm always keeping my eyes peeled for a cheap HD so I can thoroughly test one, but I definitely am biased towards vintage machines.
I have this same sewing machine & I love it. But I was sewing a fleece blanket and the machine will not stop sewing unless I unplug it.
I forgot to mention that it just started locking up 2 days ago.
Hi Kathryn,
I'm no sewing machine technician, but I would speculate that the problem is likely in the pedal. If you happen to have access to another pedal for the machine (unlikely, I know), you could swap pedals to make sure the pedal is, in fact, the problem.
The pedals are fairly simple electrical devices, but unless you really know what you're doing, I would suggest finding someone qualified and/or knowledgable to inspect the pedal. You could be exposing yourself to life-threatening electricity if you aren't careful.
My guess is it's something simple like the mechanism in the pedal that disconnects the current when you take your foot off the pedal is getting stuck and allowing the current to continue flowing.
I suppose it's possible the motor could be a problem, but I strongly suspect the pedal.
Either way, the pedal and the motor are both relatively easy to replace. Hopefully the pedal just needs a good cleaning, though!
Let us know what you find out!
This is a better machine than a 237 in my opinion. The 237 does hold more thread on the bobbin, though.
I haven't used the 401 enough to say for sure, but in isolation I might agree with you. The cross-compatibility with my Sailrite makes the 237 particularly useful to me, and it's always been up to any reasonable job I've needed it for, but I do get the impression the 401 might be a bit sturdier, and the direct-drive motor seems like a potential advantage!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@1953childstar No, I think the 239 uses class 15 bobbins.
@@1953childstar No, the 239 is a 15 bobbin I believe.
So ddo you do custom back packs?
Hi! I do not, I basically make things for myself and occasionally for close friends and family. The economics of producing custom gear for others is currently not a good fit for the rest of my life, although it is something I have been interested in doing for years. Maybe one day!
Thanks for asking, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltradesok. Whst sewing machine do you use for heavier backpacks? I am looking at making a pack specific for hunting and carrying specialized gear that places heavier gear towards my back instead of hanging off the back of the pack and having smaller side access compartments rather than the traditional large dump compartments. I am learning on a 401a that was passed down but it fails using heavier threads or in heavier fabrics.
I'm a bit surprised he says he needs only straigth and zig-zag stitches. Three (or four) step zig-zag is a kind of improved version of normal zig-zag and that machine can do it if correct cam is available.
Three step z-z is stronger, it resists wear and not undo itself as easily normal z-z. It is very useful if you have to patch tears or even small holes in fabrics or to make specially strong seams and reinforcements.
Unfortunately 401 and 403 are not as reliable and smooth machines as 201's. Of course they are much more complicated and capable machines because of zig-zag and other stitches but if you need extremely good straight stitch machine 201 is hard to beat.
If you want a machine which can do everything I must say old Husqvarnas (Vikings) are probably better than these Singers (not 201). Some models of them have low gear option which multiplies needle force and slows down sewing speed. They also have free arm models which can do some work which is impossible with a table machine
Hi!
Thanks for the information on multi-step zig-zag! I have never used anything but "regular" zig-zag, and 99.9% of my sewing is straight-stitch only. It's always interesting to hear that there might be better options out there. That said, I think most people can make useful items using only straight stitch, and regular zig-zag is a bonus that is helpful for bar tacks or perhaps stretchy pockets. I almost exclusively sew bags and utility items, so perhaps if I sewed clothing or some other goods I would find a need for different stitch types. (I have several serger/overlockers and never use them.)
I'd love to check out an older Husky, I've rarely seen them available but always keeping my eyes open!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The #401 has "standard zigzag and multi-zigzag" built-in. Also Blind hem and flexible blind hem.. Many people have no idea how versatile this machine is. The only cam you "need" is the # 22 overcast cam..
Howdy from western Colorado. I am trying to sew a boonie (military) hat...It's harder than I thought it would be. I have a stupid number of sewing machines.
Hi Tim! I don't know if you know, but I lived in the Front Range for about 8 years, and passed through the western slope fairly often (usually headed for Moab).
I've been thinking about trying to make a couple of different hats, but haven't gotten past just thinking about it. I also wondered if they would be harder than they look lol! Good luck, and let me know how yours turns out!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks and take care!
@@thejasonofalltrades Colorado is a great state for outdoorsy people! My daughter, granddaughter, and I went mushroom hunting on Grand Mesa today.I finished sewing my Boonie hat. It looks fine from 25' away! lol! I sewed it with a 1971'ish Singer Scholastic 717.
Is it possible to convert this machine into manual
Caveat: I have zero experience converting electric machines to manual or treadle operation.
I suppose it is possible with this machine, but if you are planning to use it as a treadle machine, the hand wheel would need to be changed for one that has a groove to accept a belt, since this machine's motor is internal. If by "manual" you mean hand-cranked, I suppose you could disconnect/remove the motor and drill/tap the hand wheel to accept a handle. My guess is there are better choices of machine to convert.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonwins3765 thank you, thank you, thank you
So it a heavy duty machine or not?
Hi Larry,
So, the term "heavy duty" doesn't have a specific meaning. It's sort of like asking if this machine is "super fast;" this machine might be faster than some other domestic machines, but it is nowhere near as fast as a non-walking-foot industrial machine can be, for example. I wouldn't call this machine fast, but someone else might.
When people ask about "heavy duty" sewing machines, I presume that's because they want to sew thicker, heavier or harder-to-feed materials, like Cordura, thicker waxed Canvas, webbing, leather, etc. Any sewing machine CAN sew any of those materials, but all domestic (home-use) machines will be limited as to what they can penetrate (because of a lack of power) and feed (because of being "drop-feed" or "non-walking-foot" machines).
If you want to try making a backpack, pouch or whatever out of, say, 1000D Cordura (or #10 waxed canvas, or whatever), and you're willing to work within the machine's limitations, a vintage domestic machine is the least expensive way to get your foot in the door. I can't swear to it at this point, but I believe the first 1000D Cordura backpack I made was done completely on a Pfaff 260. Brand new domestic machines may also be able to perform the same, but domestic machines can be found for WAY cheaper (I got a great one for free recently, it was set out on the roadside for trash pickup).
However, if you plan to sew a LOT of heavy materials, assembled into complex assemblies with thick seam transitions, you will be FAR better served by a walking-foot machine.
You might want to check out my video here - ua-cam.com/video/fFq5QXgF4v8/v-deo.html
I get into the weeds on what different categories of machine are better for what uses.
I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
It sure looks like heavy duty. Look at the fabrics he said he uses.
Tested today a Singer 632g =germanbuild fully metal model from 1954 to see if it could handle 2 needels, not a twinneedle. Here is the result: ua-cam.com/video/7za0yVDg-Ps/v-deo.html
Very nice! I remember reading in the manual for one of my vintage Singer machines that you can insert two needles in the needle bar for twin-needle sewing, but I have never tried it. Thanks for sharing!
@@thejasonofalltrades I have not find any manuals for this 632g it's looking a bit like tuch and saw models but have some diffrence maby because it german made.
talk about patience, I first wanted a sewing machine to sew leather in the 1970's...................I finally got the right machine at the right price in the right place at the right time in 2020