Another great video! I so appreciate that you show us the WHOLE process getting to the root cause...where you go down a path and discover its not the solution because we all learn something from the process! Thanks again for the effort!
This was so well produced! I love that you covered the job in depth, and explained exactly what the parts were for and why they could cause these problems. I am now a better informed consumer!
I see the lube on the thrust bearing taking up the clearance on the dial indicator - so I check crank end clearance w/o lube on the engines I build. Then once the clearance is measured, I take apart and lube the bearing for final assembly. I have a 2008 5 speed civic with 230,000 - I hope it keeps chugging along - manual civics for the win!
I have a 1999 with 300k miles on her and definitely leaking on crank. Currently doing a bearing replacement on the tranny. Definitely gonna look into endplay.
As usual a great video. I did these on my 03 Mitsubishi that had 150k mikes about 2 years ago that had a lot of end play and oil leaks at the seals. After replacing the thrust bearings, the crank shifted back a few thousands and the seals were no longer riding in the grooves that were worn into the crank thereby fixing my end seal leaks. Downside was the flexplate bolts were slightly contacting the trans cover, some quick grinding took care of that. 15k miles later still dry. Keep the vids coming.
Fantastic video! I would of missed the oil pan gasket insert around the stud myself. It’s great you showed that. I feel people don’t realize how much can be involved with oil leaks. And this video shows you can still teach other techs and DIY people you may run into something that isn’t discovered until you keep looking and not quit. It’s a great feeling when you finally figure it out yourself.
After market gaskets are HARD compared to the soft and pliable OEM gaskets. I put a brand new aftermarket valve cover gasket that leaked to no end. Ordered a new OEM one and the difference is massive. The OEM is soft and pliable, it actually expands and seals while the aftermarket is just a piece of hard rubber like material that doesn't seal.
Every time you miss something small like that little piece of old gasket, you learn from it. I once changed my oil and got 10 feet before the filter popped off the car and drained all the new oil onto the street. The problem? I never checked for the old filter gasket and doubled-up. I've learned and now I take the extra 3 seconds to check every time.
Awesome video Eric. I’ve always been afraid of messing around with anything like thrust bearings. It always has scared me. I’m afraid I’ll mess something up or lock the engine. You presented the process well and now it doesn’t look so bad. Thank you
This was a damn good video. A clear example of a job that doesn't go as predicted with unexpected additional work. It emphasizes the need to look over everything with reduced assumptions. Well done!
Yes too many people are SOO proud; and the little boy is still hiding 🫣 in them ; NEVER own their Stuff) this man ERIC is at the top of his game) and the TRUTH is we ALL screwed up) ONLY REAL MEN own their Mistakes; and MENTOR; others
I don't have a Honda, but future dictates that maybe I or someone I know will, at any rate you can never go wrong with learning! Thanks EC, I sometimes feel like I'm doing a remote technicians class ever Friday morning-ish lol.
Great video Eric but one thing I was going to mention is that I think some of the excessive endplay you are getting is because you had the base of the dial indicator mounted on the body of the car instead of the engine block so your also measuring play in the engine mounts ect so you may be well within spec 🙂
I’m over 70, time served marine engine fitter. I knew a lovely, old school, old engineer when I was 30. He insisted that every bolt he took out, must go back only into the hole it came out of. Thanks for sharing
I'm guessing this is from when machining and thread cutting was not as accurate as it is these days. I guess it would have actually mattered in those cases. Interesting
@@tiberiusclaudiusnerogermanicis yes, it was “a bit since” much of it was to avoid a stud going into a blind hole if it was the wrong stud and slightly longer or shorter. It’s embedded now, I always try to make a cardboard template of sorts and put studs into the appropriate whole. This video shows Eric finding out the hard way, albeit harmlessly. There was a thoroughness about the old ways and there is breathtaking, mass produced accuracy in modernity. I’ve enjoyed the best of both worlds. I have, above my workbench, “Accuracy is a prerequisite, not an optional extra,” and envy those who are inherently accurate.
@@observersnt no envy for me then hahaha. Very interesting I tend to pop bolts into the holes on the parts or re thread them a little if I can. If it's a rocker cover and all the bolts are the same I just pop them in the mag tray. Although we all know that the bulk head below the wipers are always the no1 bolt and tool organiser hahaha. I lost a 12mm spanner and I noticed cos it was one of my knucklesaver mac spanners so I was cross and spent alot of time looking... fast forward 1 year, a car comes it for its annual MOT (UK inspection) service to me and what was sitting there as I raised the bonnet...... you guessed it. Mr 12mm lol. Shows how often said customer lifted their bonnet and over here oil changes are annual if people even bother to get them done.. But I digress. Interesting info there. Thanks for taking the time to write it:)
Hey Eric, I’m sure you’re aware of this but just incase, something I often see overlooked on any seal that has something spinning inside of it is a groove cut into the spinning object like your crankshaft from the seal, maybe you have some footage of the replacement of the seals and can review it to see if there’s a groove. If there is a groove cut into the crank you can fill it with a metal epoxy resin and install a repair sleeve. Thanks for the video and have a blessed day.
When Eric fails to fix it first time we all get more content so it's a win for us viewers and Eric gets to stay dirty for longer which should keep him happy lol. And hey, the end play on the crank did seem a little out of spec or at least borderline so regardless of the fact it didnt solve you oil leak, I think that was time well spent doing the thrusts. Will also surely help prolong the life of other components, I.e drive plate springs, release bearing aswell as the crank itself... I'm sure your son will be happier not having to clean his driveway anymore lol
Thanks for the great content as always. The engine build you did on your dad's truck gave me the confidence to build my new coyote in my garage. Happy to report after 5000 miles it's as healthy as a horse. Stay dirty!
In my experience, if failure isn't obvious, it's not the problem I had a faulty distributor for 5 years and checked every other part, wires, plugs, ECU, pump, etc... and vacuum leaks I found your channel 10 years ago thanks to that lol. But my distributor was obviously destroyed, just as your seal was not sealing because of the leftovers. Always double check simple things before throwing money at it.
Good point, but I simply didn't see that on the stud when assembling the first oil pan gasket. I should probably wear my glasses more. Thanks for the comment.
Eric, u are such a patient guy! U did everything AND MORE as any great mechanic would DO with preventative work the 1st time. Who would think? Ur son owes u big time! He's lucky to have u! Great video. 👍
My old car has 216,000 km on it and I think I'm having a bit of a similar issue. I will probably do this job next spring. Thanks for sharing your video
I've had new seals prematurely fail if there is any scoring in the crank sealing surface. Even if I can't catch my fingernail on it. I've since taken to installing repair sleeves on the crank front and back when resealing the engine. I've stopped all seal leaks with this method.
simply the BEST! while i have rebuilt engines - the thought of replacing engine bearings et al w the engine still in - is new territory. Cool tip using a bent over COTTER PIN in the oil hole for coaxing out bearings, fyi... maybe you did an episode on crank bearings
Those darn sump gaskets are a pain, I've had the same issue, because I followed the Honda manual. Turns out you need to use more than 6 spots of rtv😂 Now i don't know what to trust. Great video, and you've helped me tons when working with Hondas.
That oil pan gasket job reminds me of my oil pan gasket job on my 03 lesabre....in terms of access...but mine was a tad more difficult to get to...especially with only a floor jack and stands...but mine has no gasket, only ultra Grey sealer. Good job. Very interesting.
Thanky you, very inspiring video im hearing clunk from engine for years getting worse especially after shifting gears while moving slowly hope this helps already got new pair from honda and also new oil pan gasket
"You don't always hit a home run," the first time at bat. And that is why I like this channel. It proves that mechanics is an art as well as a science. People should understand that trouble shooting doesnt always immediately point to THE solution for a mechanical problem.
I'd use some form of sealant such as Hondabond or equivalent in the corners where the oil pan gasket mounts. Used to have to do that with the cam cover on all the motorcycles I've had to prevent leaks in those areas. If at first you don't succeed, try again and it will come to you. Thanks for the informative video!
This uses a smooth transition at those curves so there are no hard corners where leaks can occur. Besides, the oil pan gasket was not the source of the leak. Thanks for the comment.
I was waiting for the Honda bond. Last one I did for my hatch when I had the pan off for the oil return modifications I slathered the Honda bond on the entire oil pan matting surface. I have also had issues with used cranks where there is a groove in the front and rear main seals matting surface that ended up needing a speedy sleeve to build the surface back up.
I'm replacing the crankshaft, bearings, and all gaskets and o-rings; basically rebuilding my 2000 Civic EX with a D16Y8. A note on the oil pan gasket: My engine has 186K with regular oil changes all its life, and I could reuse the stock gasket if I wanted. It's still quite pliable hence it's never leaked, and it was also helped along by the Hondabond applied around its outside at the factory.
I always jump to valve adjustment when oil is leaking from multiple places. Valves too tight cause too much crankcase pressure. Likewise too loose can cause delayed ignition of fuel and Mis-timing of the flame propagation which can lead to increased crank pressure as the flame pressure will be out of sync with the valves by a few millisecond. Could also be rings or bad pcv/clogged pcv hose, not sure if you checked any of those things yet.
In my 25+ years of working on Hondas, I have not experienced anything like that at all. The valve adjustment has nothing to do with oil leaks, at least in my experience. I know for a fact that had nothing to do with these oil leaks as I'll show in future videos. Also, I adjusted the valves when I did the timing belt work on this engine. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy my integra was leaking oil and valves fixed it. Leaky valves amount to the same thing as blowby pressure. Too tight obviously affects more than too loose but I have seen some very very out of spec valves on the loose end of things and oil leaks got better after. Perhaps I’ve just worked on some pos cars 😅
I really like the UV dye that you can put in the oil and pinpoint exactly where leaks are. Saved me a bunch of time tracking down a leak which ended up being a distributor o ring
Another trick that can work is using diameter tacious Earth. It's a very fine powder substance used to kill insects.You wash off the area where the oil was leaking. And while it is still wet underneath you hammer it with the powder. Similar to the dye the trail of oil when it starts up again will be very obvious. Even if you don't want to do the work yourself on the car you want to be able to accurately diagnose the problem yourself
This is actually perfect timing, Eric! I have pretty much the same exact car with the same engine, and my oil pan gasket is leaking! I plan to replace it next oil change since the leak is minor but, I'll keep an eye out for the gasket remnants, thanks!
I found this video to be very interesting. Though, I suspect this job is not as easy on some engines. I suspect some engines require more tear down to replace the thrust bearings.
Hey Eric, I have a ‘05 LX same motor and I’m looking to replace the thrust washers as well, however I can’t find OEM ones anywhere. Where’d you get yours?
My d16y8 has some leaks around the oil pan, but it doesn’t look like there’s a rubber gasket there. Did they come installed with some sort of sealant originally?
Eric, that cam plug has hash marks that need to align with the mating surfaces between the cylinder head and cam cap. The later 3rd gen Integras use the same part. Early 3G Tegs used a rubber plug that would leak. I changed to the revised plastic plug years ago, but I never realized it had a certain orientation, and I’ve always had slight oil leaks from that area. Recently I checked the 98 Integra FSM which shows that plug going in with those hash marks aligned with the cylinder head. Since installing a the new plug the correct way, no more leaks!
Think about it, when was the last time you saw a circular 'o' ring seal that was directional? What you saw in the manual was just how things are drawn, it has nothing to do with the sealing of the 'o' ring. It is the same seal as the one on the Integra as you pointed out. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy it’s not just how things are drawn. The manual specially says to align the hash marks with the cylinder head/cam cap mating surface. I never paid attention to it before and always had at least some leaking issues from that area. Now it’s installed per the FSM and it’s not leaking.
I won't argue with your experience, but I simply can't see how a circular 'o' ring can be directional. Also, I've never seen a leak like that after replacing a cam plug and not aligning the marks, including on this Civic. It doesn't leak at all anymore and the cam plug is installed as you see in the video. Thank you for your comments.
@@ericthecarguy I don’t know either, but I just verified in the 01-05 Civic factory service manual, page 6-50, that it also calls for aligning the marks to the cylinder head. If it doesn’t leak that’s cool, but keep an eye on it long term just in case. Love all the videos, longtime subscriber here.
Is there only thrust bearing on one spot? Or several across the crankshaft? This looks like an easy process. Would this be a recommended thing to do for an older manual engine? I’ve been having issues with crankshaft end play I believe on an old ford that’s causing the flywheel to be a bit off and causing starter grinding periodically. Thinking I’ll check these since I’ve done everything else possible to resolve the problem.
you mean the slots face the crank webs. My trans filter gasket is recommended to be reused, however, I don't like to reuse any gasket. Rubber does not do well with motor oil, blow by destroyed a trans mount on another car I had. Trans pan gasket with trans fluid another story. Hey good catch with that partial gasket causing a gap, but I saw a dived on the block next to that stud.
I’m have no end play at crank. New bearings also ground crank to .030 under. Would the thrust bearing need to be replaced? They are new. Or can I grind it down?
At some point, I think my calculus regarding feeding it oil vs. time and money changing parts will come into play. If it's only eating/leaking a small amount continually, maybe I just feed it another quart every quarter year? Unless one likes clean garage floors and driveways....
I had one of these in for a timing belt job the other day. I saw lots of oil near the front seal/oil pan so I ordered a front crank seal with the timing belt kit. When I got into the job I found the front crank seal dry as a bone so I didn't replace it. From what I could see it appeared to me that the oil pump housing was leaking, along with maybe the pan gasket. I believe there is an o-ring behind the oil pump cover that leaks. I didn't have parts, the exhaust bolts looked angry, so I didn't remove the oil pump and oil pan. Waiting until the customer brings it in for the leak.
I strongly advise against that. I next to never see the oil pump housing leaking. 9 out of 10 times it's the cam seal leaking down the front of the engine, or the oil pan gasket.
@@ericthecarguy It was dry up at the top. That cam seal plug you replaced was bone dry. I've replaced those before on these engines. There is a large hex key plug on the back side of the oil pump cover, (I think it's the relief valve spring,) and it was wet from about there down. Just adjacent to that, behind the pump is an 0-ring I'm pretty sure is leaking. If the car comes back for the leak I'll probably put some dye in it.
I believe they seal the oil pump to the block with Honda bond which is why I rarely see that leaking. The valve cover is also suspect. BTW, the cam plug is on the opposite side of the engine. I'm talking about the front cam seal leaking. That is super common. When it leaks, it runs toward the back of the engine and down the back of the block. You could always add dye to find the source of the leak. Good luck.
@@ericthecarguy It is sealed with Honda bond but there is also an o-ring that hardens up over time and leaks. This one is bone dry up top. Leak is just down by the pan but appears to come down from the oil pump area by that hex key plug.
Micrometers for bearing measurement don't use a point but a ball end as in ball end micrometer on the anvil end and still a flat end on the thimble end.
I got a 2012 honda accord exl v6 and I am looking for service manual books so if you know any good ones please feel free to share them. Thank you in advance :)
Hi Eric. Good day. I have honda accord 2.4 2006 and has run about 200K Km. I saw your previous video saying that we need to adjust the valve if running more than 100K Miles. My qiestion is, i asked a foreman, he said it's better if i do the top overhaul to clean alm the carbon. When i asked other foreman, he said no need to do the top overhaul unless i burn the top gasket or if it's leaking. He also said that no carbon been built as now days petrol or gas has addictive to avood those carbon. What is your opinion Mr Eric? Have u experience it? Thanks in advance
Hey Eric, I'm an avid fan of your channel. I bought a 2014 Ford Ranger 2.2L, turbocharged XLT Variant, Manual transmission with 80,000 km on the odometer. I'm new to diesel but I think I am feeling something not normal about it. I didn;t notice it at first as I thought I am just adapting with the new setup as I am used to small sedan. I feel a vibration or metal to metal clunking underneath when I am at low rpm, low speed specially when running at 3rd gear or when shifting gears, when car is moving fast i dont feel vibration and metal to metal clunk but when you change gears you will feel and hear a clunking noise and vibration underneath. Engine has no problem, it's quick accelerating, fast pickup truck. I did a little research, google says a little bit about U-joints and shaft. Do you think these are the only thing that may cause it? I tried going underneath and notice nothing unusual, I tried to wiggle all the parts and there is no clunk or movement in the shafts and joints. Or I maybe I just have to wiggle it harder or use a pry bar or something?
I’m having an issue with a recently purchased civic. when I press the clutch in, car will stall almost and make a squeak noise. This happens even in nurtural. Ever seen failed thrust washers cause this? Gonna drop the pan tomorrow and investigate
A question for you,Eric! I built a 4AGE many moons ago, and its very gradually dropping oil pressure - from 40psi at hot idle when it was first built, down to now 10psi, about 5000km later. Everything still sounds perfectly running, no knock or anything, but I am concerned, especially as I made the sinful mistake of reusing the original main cap and rod cap bolts. I fear that they are stretching, especially as its being run with 15psi of turbo boost. So I want to take a look at the bearings and the bolts, but I have a paranoid fear of doing so. I noticed you didnt mind throwing the main caps back on with the same bearings. You even reused the bolts. I guess my question is more of a request to reassure me that its probably a good idea to take a look - can you please give me a pep talk here?
My Daughter had a Honda crv And the same problem.. in the end it was the bolt threads allowing oil by the thread not sealing with the washers .. so change the washers and or seal the threads with silicone… Good luck .!
Any reason not to put a small bead of sealant along those curves? What's your opinion on using dye to find the leak? Might've saved you a lot of effort on chasing them down. Thanks!
I did put a small beed on the areas where the manufacturer recommends. I'm of the opinion to let the gasket do the work, it shouldn't require sealant. I did show in the video what was causing the leak at the oil pan gasket. Dye could be used to help find the leak for sure. Thanks for your comment.
Love how you attack and go through the problem sorting and discarding the causes as you progress. Very, very honest. Love you !
Regards. Pablo
I just realised that I've been subbed to you for over a decade.
Man how time flies!
Showing the process of diagnosing is really helpful. It is often the least expected basic thing that goes wrong.
Another great video! I so appreciate that you show us the WHOLE process getting to the root cause...where you go down a path and discover its not the solution because we all learn something from the process! Thanks again for the effort!
Nice work, Eric. This is a lotta hard work. UA-cam's hardest working Honda mechanic!
This was so well produced! I love that you covered the job in depth, and explained exactly what the parts were for and why they could cause these problems. I am now a better informed consumer!
I see the lube on the thrust bearing taking up the clearance on the dial indicator - so I check crank end clearance w/o lube on the engines I build. Then once the clearance is measured, I take apart and lube the bearing for final assembly. I have a 2008 5 speed civic with 230,000 - I hope it keeps chugging along - manual civics for the win!
Great suggestion. Thanks.
👍 oil and grease take up space with tight tolerances.
I have a 1999 with 300k miles on her and definitely leaking on crank. Currently doing a bearing replacement on the tranny. Definitely gonna look into endplay.
Been a viewer for 4-5yrs, thank you for all that you do man. Really helps guys like me out!
Thank you!
@@ericthecarguy how much u charge to do a timing belt water pump on a 2000 accord 2.3
As usual a great video. I did these on my 03 Mitsubishi that had 150k mikes about 2 years ago that had a lot of end play and oil leaks at the seals. After replacing the thrust bearings, the crank shifted back a few thousands and the seals were no longer riding in the grooves that were worn into the crank thereby fixing my end seal leaks. Downside was the flexplate bolts were slightly contacting the trans cover, some quick grinding took care of that. 15k miles later still dry. Keep the vids coming.
Fantastic video! I would of missed the oil pan gasket insert around the stud myself. It’s great you showed that. I feel people don’t realize how much can be involved with oil leaks. And this video shows you can still teach other techs and DIY people you may run into something that isn’t discovered until you keep looking and not quit. It’s a great feeling when you finally figure it out yourself.
Thank you for that comment.
After market gaskets are HARD compared to the soft and pliable OEM gaskets. I put a brand new aftermarket valve cover gasket that leaked to no end. Ordered a new OEM one and the difference is massive. The OEM is soft and pliable, it actually expands and seals while the aftermarket is just a piece of hard rubber like material that doesn't seal.
AWESOME Diagnostic and this applies to any crankshaft Ford or Chevy. Thank you so much. I searched all over UA-cam before I found this.
Every time you miss something small like that little piece of old gasket, you learn from it.
I once changed my oil and got 10 feet before the filter popped off the car and drained all the new oil onto the street. The problem? I never checked for the old filter gasket and doubled-up.
I've learned and now I take the extra 3 seconds to check every time.
Awesome video Eric. I’ve always been afraid of messing around with anything like thrust bearings. It always has scared me. I’m afraid I’ll mess something up or lock the engine. You presented the process well and now it doesn’t look so bad.
Thank you
This was a damn good video. A clear example of a job that doesn't go as predicted with unexpected additional work. It emphasizes the need to look over everything with reduced assumptions. Well done!
Eric, have you checked if the engine has high crankcase pressure. That can cause leaks at basically every oil gasket.
That's not the issue in this case. I've actually already fixed the leaks. That will be covered in upcoming episodes.
So true. I got all the bad leaks stopped on my accord but blow by out the dip stick prevents me from having the clean engin bay of my dreams.
Great catch Eric!! Good Dad bonus level activated👏👏👏👏
I have to respect the fact Eric had an oversight and totally owned it.
Even the pros get caught out every so often guys!
Yes too many people are SOO proud; and the little boy is still hiding 🫣 in them ; NEVER own their Stuff) this man ERIC is at the top of his game) and the TRUTH is we ALL screwed up) ONLY REAL MEN own their Mistakes; and MENTOR; others
I don't have a Honda, but future dictates that maybe I or someone I know will, at any rate you can never go wrong with learning! Thanks EC, I sometimes feel like I'm doing a remote technicians class ever Friday morning-ish lol.
Great video Eric but one thing I was going to mention is that I think some of the excessive endplay you are getting is because you had the base of the dial indicator mounted on the body of the car instead of the engine block so your also measuring play in the engine mounts ect so you may be well within spec 🙂
Good point.
I actually have to do one for a friend in about a month or so. So this came at an opportune moment. Nice, thanks.
Well you learn something new everyday. Awsome and super informative video. This is why I watch your videos.
I’m over 70, time served marine engine fitter. I knew a lovely, old school, old engineer when I was 30. He insisted that every bolt he took out, must go back only into the hole it came out of.
Thanks for sharing
I'm guessing this is from when machining and thread cutting was not as accurate as it is these days. I guess it would have actually mattered in those cases. Interesting
@@tiberiusclaudiusnerogermanicis yes, it was “a bit since” much of it was to avoid a stud going into a blind hole if it was the wrong stud and slightly longer or shorter.
It’s embedded now, I always try to make a cardboard template of sorts and put studs into the appropriate whole. This video shows Eric finding out the hard way, albeit harmlessly. There was a thoroughness about the old ways and there is breathtaking, mass produced accuracy in modernity. I’ve enjoyed the best of both worlds. I have, above my workbench, “Accuracy is a prerequisite, not an optional extra,” and envy those who are inherently accurate.
@@observersnt no envy for me then hahaha. Very interesting I tend to pop bolts into the holes on the parts or re thread them a little if I can. If it's a rocker cover and all the bolts are the same I just pop them in the mag tray. Although we all know that the bulk head below the wipers are always the no1 bolt and tool organiser hahaha. I lost a 12mm spanner and I noticed cos it was one of my knucklesaver mac spanners so I was cross and spent alot of time looking... fast forward 1 year, a car comes it for its annual MOT (UK inspection) service to me and what was sitting there as I raised the bonnet...... you guessed it. Mr 12mm lol. Shows how often said customer lifted their bonnet and over here oil changes are annual if people even bother to get them done..
But I digress. Interesting info there. Thanks for taking the time to write it:)
Hey Eric, I’m sure you’re aware of this but just incase, something I often see overlooked on any seal that has something spinning inside of it is a groove cut into the spinning object like your crankshaft from the seal, maybe you have some footage of the replacement of the seals and can review it to see if there’s a groove. If there is a groove cut into the crank you can fill it with a metal epoxy resin and install a repair sleeve. Thanks for the video and have a blessed day.
I've never seen a video on thrust bearings so that was actually pretty useful
Love your knowledge your an amazing mechanic love all the content!
Thank you!
Really good, clear, well-lit video. Thanks for the usual clear description.
Great job dad hope your son was watchin and understanding the commitment of your time ⏲ much love from the Rodriguez fam ❤ on the va side
Great video. Good info. I like that you discuss your thoughts, even when they don't solve the issue. Very helpfull.
Have a great vacation, thanks for the help and for the fun
When Eric fails to fix it first time we all get more content so it's a win for us viewers and Eric gets to stay dirty for longer which should keep him happy lol. And hey, the end play on the crank did seem a little out of spec or at least borderline so regardless of the fact it didnt solve you oil leak, I think that was time well spent doing the thrusts. Will also surely help prolong the life of other components, I.e drive plate springs, release bearing aswell as the crank itself... I'm sure your son will be happier not having to clean his driveway anymore lol
Thank you Eric I always love watching your wonderful videos and problem solving I am watching from South Africa
Thank you!
This guy is a Dr. Car Mechanic he speaks from a lot of years of experience.
Thanks for the great content as always. The engine build you did on your dad's truck gave me the confidence to build my new coyote in my garage. Happy to report after 5000 miles it's as healthy as a horse. Stay dirty!
Thats great to hear. Thanks for sharing that.
In my experience, if failure isn't obvious, it's not the problem
I had a faulty distributor for 5 years and checked every other part, wires, plugs, ECU, pump, etc... and vacuum leaks I found your channel 10 years ago thanks to that lol. But my distributor was obviously destroyed, just as your seal was not sealing because of the leftovers. Always double check simple things before throwing money at it.
Good point, but I simply didn't see that on the stud when assembling the first oil pan gasket. I should probably wear my glasses more. Thanks for the comment.
Eric, u are such a patient guy! U did everything AND MORE as any great mechanic would DO with preventative work the 1st time. Who would think? Ur son owes u big time! He's lucky to have u! Great video. 👍
My youngest son is a great kid, always has been. I'm more than happy to do this work for him. I know he appreciates it. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks very much for these types of videos! I think you do very good job of explaining difficult stuff and I definitely need the help/knowledge!
Please continue to make more videos like this one! They will help me a lot!
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thank you.
@@ericthecarguy keep going!
Learn something new from you every time mate👍
Glad you finally got the leak
My old car has 216,000 km on it and I think I'm having a bit of a similar issue.
I will probably do this job next spring.
Thanks for sharing your video
I've had new seals prematurely fail if there is any scoring in the crank sealing surface. Even if I can't catch my fingernail on it. I've since taken to installing repair sleeves on the crank front and back when resealing the engine. I've stopped all seal leaks with this method.
simply the BEST! while i have rebuilt engines - the thought of replacing engine bearings et al w the engine still in - is new territory. Cool tip using a bent over COTTER PIN in the oil hole for coaxing out bearings, fyi... maybe you did an episode on crank bearings
ERIC!? Man you gotta silicone those corners of the valve cover and oil pan gaskets on a Honda!
WELL DAMN, THAT SUCKS BUT YOU FINALLY FIXED IT. He's VERY LUCKY TOO HAVE YOU AS A DAD.
Thanks can’t wait for the next video. Enjoy your weekend 👍
Great video Eric!!
Those darn sump gaskets are a pain, I've had the same issue, because I followed the Honda manual. Turns out you need to use more than 6 spots of rtv😂 Now i don't know what to trust. Great video, and you've helped me tons when working with Hondas.
Looking at the inside of that oil pan has me remembering the engine from your Mechanic Special Civic engine.
"Pieces! ooooooooh"
Thank you! I'm able to fix my b20 crank pulley wobble with this video. It's almost the same thing but the location is different
That oil pan gasket job reminds me of my oil pan gasket job on my 03 lesabre....in terms of access...but mine was a tad more difficult to get to...especially with only a floor jack and stands...but mine has no gasket, only ultra Grey sealer.
Good job. Very interesting.
Thanky you, very inspiring video im hearing clunk from engine for years getting worse especially after shifting gears while moving slowly hope this helps already got new pair from honda and also new oil pan gasket
Congrats on solving the prob.👍
"You don't always hit a home run," the first time at bat. And that is why I like this channel. It proves that mechanics is an art as well as a science. People should understand that trouble shooting doesnt always immediately point to THE solution for a mechanical problem.
I'd use some form of sealant such as Hondabond or equivalent in the corners where the oil pan gasket mounts. Used to have to do that with the cam cover on all the motorcycles I've had to prevent leaks in those areas.
If at first you don't succeed, try again and it will come to you. Thanks for the informative video!
This uses a smooth transition at those curves so there are no hard corners where leaks can occur. Besides, the oil pan gasket was not the source of the leak. Thanks for the comment.
I was waiting for the Honda bond. Last one I did for my hatch when I had the pan off for the oil return modifications I slathered the Honda bond on the entire oil pan matting surface. I have also had issues with used cranks where there is a groove in the front and rear main seals matting surface that ended up needing a speedy sleeve to build the surface back up.
I strongly recommend against using Honda bond AND a gasket in that way.
Notification squad have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
Useful video! Thank you!
I'm replacing the crankshaft, bearings, and all gaskets and o-rings; basically rebuilding my 2000 Civic EX with a D16Y8.
A note on the oil pan gasket: My engine has 186K with regular oil changes all its life, and I could reuse the stock gasket if I wanted. It's still quite pliable hence it's never leaked, and it was also helped along by the Hondabond applied around its outside at the factory.
excellent video keep it coming
I always jump to valve adjustment when oil is leaking from multiple places. Valves too tight cause too much crankcase pressure. Likewise too loose can cause delayed ignition of fuel and Mis-timing of the flame propagation which can lead to increased crank pressure as the flame pressure will be out of sync with the valves by a few millisecond. Could also be rings or bad pcv/clogged pcv hose, not sure if you checked any of those things yet.
In my 25+ years of working on Hondas, I have not experienced anything like that at all. The valve adjustment has nothing to do with oil leaks, at least in my experience. I know for a fact that had nothing to do with these oil leaks as I'll show in future videos. Also, I adjusted the valves when I did the timing belt work on this engine. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy my integra was leaking oil and valves fixed it. Leaky valves amount to the same thing as blowby pressure. Too tight obviously affects more than too loose but I have seen some very very out of spec valves on the loose end of things and oil leaks got better after. Perhaps I’ve just worked on some pos cars 😅
I really like the UV dye that you can put in the oil and pinpoint exactly where leaks are. Saved me a bunch of time tracking down a leak which ended up being a distributor o ring
Another trick that can work is using diameter tacious Earth. It's a very fine powder substance used to kill insects.You wash off the area where the oil was leaking. And while it is still wet underneath you hammer it with the powder. Similar to the dye the trail of oil when it starts up again will be very obvious. Even if you don't want to do the work yourself on the car you want to be able to accurately diagnose the problem yourself
Is it weird that I get excited when I see your name in the notifications 🤔😄 Have a great Halloween weekend 🤘
Nope. I appreciate the views! Thank you and have a great Halloween yourself.
I see that you placed the indicator on the car chassis, while prying the crank, could it be the engine mounts also flex, creating false reading?
I was wondering if an air line could have been connected to the dipstick tube and pressure applied, maybe showing a slight leak faster.
Possibly, but as you'll see in the upcoming videos, that really wouldn't tell me much. The best method in my view is to use dye.
This is actually perfect timing, Eric! I have pretty much the same exact car with the same engine, and my oil pan gasket is leaking! I plan to replace it next oil change since the leak is minor but, I'll keep an eye out for the gasket remnants, thanks!
Good job
you have to mount the gauge on the block to do that measurement for an accurate reading since the engine is sitting on rubber mounts that move
I found this video to be very interesting. Though, I suspect this job is not as easy on some engines. I suspect some engines require more tear down to replace the thrust bearings.
A bit more on some engines, yes.
Hey Eric, I have a ‘05 LX same motor and I’m looking to replace the thrust washers as well, however I can’t find OEM ones anywhere. Where’d you get yours?
man you will get it
My d16y8 has some leaks around the oil pan, but it doesn’t look like there’s a rubber gasket there. Did they come installed with some sort of sealant originally?
Eric, that cam plug has hash marks that need to align with the mating surfaces between the cylinder head and cam cap.
The later 3rd gen Integras use the same part. Early 3G Tegs used a rubber plug that would leak. I changed to the revised plastic plug years ago, but I never realized it had a certain orientation, and I’ve always had slight oil leaks from that area. Recently I checked the 98 Integra FSM which shows that plug going in with those hash marks aligned with the cylinder head. Since installing a the new plug the correct way, no more leaks!
Think about it, when was the last time you saw a circular 'o' ring seal that was directional? What you saw in the manual was just how things are drawn, it has nothing to do with the sealing of the 'o' ring. It is the same seal as the one on the Integra as you pointed out. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy it’s not just how things are drawn. The manual specially says to align the hash marks with the cylinder head/cam cap mating surface. I never paid attention to it before and always had at least some leaking issues from that area. Now it’s installed per the FSM and it’s not leaking.
I won't argue with your experience, but I simply can't see how a circular 'o' ring can be directional. Also, I've never seen a leak like that after replacing a cam plug and not aligning the marks, including on this Civic. It doesn't leak at all anymore and the cam plug is installed as you see in the video. Thank you for your comments.
@@ericthecarguy I don’t know either, but I just verified in the 01-05 Civic factory service manual, page 6-50, that it also calls for aligning the marks to the cylinder head. If it doesn’t leak that’s cool, but keep an eye on it long term just in case.
Love all the videos, longtime subscriber here.
Any chance you have a link to that?
Is there only thrust bearing on one spot? Or several across the crankshaft? This looks like an easy process. Would this be a recommended thing to do for an older manual engine? I’ve been having issues with crankshaft end play I believe on an old ford that’s causing the flywheel to be a bit off and causing starter grinding periodically. Thinking I’ll check these since I’ve done everything else possible to resolve the problem.
Since the dial indicator appears to be mounted on the chassis, how much of the indicated movement is because of motor mount flex???
Probably some of it. Good call.
Could you remove and replace the camshaft with the engine in the car ?
I know this is a older video ..but I have a question if one of the bearings is facing the right way and one is not how damaging could it be?
Eric, ho ware it would be to dand/file the main crankshaft on the main bearings side?, Thanks
Great video!
Did you check the VTEC gaskets???!
you mean the slots face the crank webs. My trans filter gasket is recommended to be reused, however, I don't like to reuse any gasket. Rubber does not do well with motor oil, blow by destroyed a trans mount on another car I had. Trans pan gasket with trans fluid another story. Hey good catch with that partial gasket causing a gap, but I saw a dived on the block next to that stud.
I’m have no end play at crank. New bearings also ground crank to .030 under. Would the thrust bearing need to be replaced? They are new. Or can I grind it down?
Brilliant video thank u ❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
👍”Worlds Greatest Dad” ☕️hey thanks for the vids. ✝️peace be with you....
At some point, I think my calculus regarding feeding it oil vs. time and money changing parts will come into play. If it's only eating/leaking a small amount continually, maybe I just feed it another quart every quarter year? Unless one likes clean garage floors and driveways....
Great video
Thanks!
I had one of these in for a timing belt job the other day. I saw lots of oil near the front seal/oil pan so I ordered a front crank seal with the timing belt kit. When I got into the job I found the front crank seal dry as a bone so I didn't replace it. From what I could see it appeared to me that the oil pump housing was leaking, along with maybe the pan gasket. I believe there is an o-ring behind the oil pump cover that leaks. I didn't have parts, the exhaust bolts looked angry, so I didn't remove the oil pump and oil pan. Waiting until the customer brings it in for the leak.
I strongly advise against that. I next to never see the oil pump housing leaking. 9 out of 10 times it's the cam seal leaking down the front of the engine, or the oil pan gasket.
@@ericthecarguy It was dry up at the top. That cam seal plug you replaced was bone dry. I've replaced those before on these engines. There is a large hex key plug on the back side of the oil pump cover, (I think it's the relief valve spring,) and it was wet from about there down. Just adjacent to that, behind the pump is an 0-ring I'm pretty sure is leaking. If the car comes back for the leak I'll probably put some dye in it.
I believe they seal the oil pump to the block with Honda bond which is why I rarely see that leaking. The valve cover is also suspect. BTW, the cam plug is on the opposite side of the engine. I'm talking about the front cam seal leaking. That is super common. When it leaks, it runs toward the back of the engine and down the back of the block. You could always add dye to find the source of the leak. Good luck.
@@ericthecarguy It is sealed with Honda bond but there is also an o-ring that hardens up over time and leaks. This one is bone dry up top. Leak is just down by the pan but appears to come down from the oil pump area by that hex key plug.
Again, in 25+ years of working on Hondas, I very rarely see an issue there. It's usually coming from somewhere else in my experience.
Eric, I always use honda bond on the pan side I've never had a leak
Good call.
Micrometers for bearing measurement don't use a point but a ball end as in ball end micrometer on the anvil end and still a flat end on the thimble end.
I got a 2012 honda accord exl v6 and I am looking for service manual books so if you know any good ones please feel free to share them.
Thank you in advance :)
E®ic. Your doing it WRoNG!!!!!!
Hi Eric. Good day. I have honda accord 2.4 2006 and has run about 200K Km. I saw your previous video saying that we need to adjust the valve if running more than 100K Miles. My qiestion is, i asked a foreman, he said it's better if i do the top overhaul to clean alm the carbon. When i asked other foreman, he said no need to do the top overhaul unless i burn the top gasket or if it's leaking. He also said that no carbon been built as now days petrol or gas has addictive to avood those carbon. What is your opinion Mr Eric? Have u experience it? Thanks in advance
My Civic produces a clunk sound when releasing the clutch pedal in 1st gear from a dead stop. Is this a possible play in the the thrust bearings?
Is it ok for the main bearing thrust bearing side plates or walls to be loose ? I got a set of new acl and the thrust bearing side walls are loose
Hey Eric, I'm an avid fan of your channel. I bought a 2014 Ford Ranger 2.2L, turbocharged XLT Variant, Manual transmission with 80,000 km on the odometer. I'm new to diesel but I think I am feeling something not normal about it. I didn;t notice it at first as I thought I am just adapting with the new setup as I am used to small sedan. I feel a vibration or metal to metal clunking underneath when I am at low rpm, low speed specially when running at 3rd gear or when shifting gears, when car is moving fast i dont feel vibration and metal to metal clunk but when you change gears you will feel and hear a clunking noise and vibration underneath. Engine has no problem, it's quick accelerating, fast pickup truck.
I did a little research, google says a little bit about U-joints and shaft. Do you think these are the only thing that may cause it? I tried going underneath and notice nothing unusual, I tried to wiggle all the parts and there is no clunk or movement in the shafts and joints. Or I maybe I just have to wiggle it harder or use a pry bar or something?
I’m having an issue with a recently purchased civic. when I press the clutch in, car will stall almost and make a squeak noise. This happens even in nurtural. Ever seen failed thrust washers cause this? Gonna drop the pan tomorrow and investigate
A question for you,Eric! I built a 4AGE many moons ago, and its very gradually dropping oil pressure - from 40psi at hot idle when it was first built, down to now 10psi, about 5000km later. Everything still sounds perfectly running, no knock or anything, but I am concerned, especially as I made the sinful mistake of reusing the original main cap and rod cap bolts. I fear that they are stretching, especially as its being run with 15psi of turbo boost. So I want to take a look at the bearings and the bolts, but I have a paranoid fear of doing so. I noticed you didnt mind throwing the main caps back on with the same bearings. You even reused the bolts. I guess my question is more of a request to reassure me that its probably a good idea to take a look - can you please give me a pep talk here?
My Daughter had a Honda crv
And the same problem.. in the end it was the bolt threads allowing oil by the thread not sealing with the washers .. so change the washers and or seal the threads with silicone…
Good luck .!
Help us lover Honda from Vietnam!
Did you check groves cut from your seals?
Yes.
Any reason not to put a small bead of sealant along those curves? What's your opinion on using dye to find the leak? Might've saved you a lot of effort on chasing them down. Thanks!
I did put a small beed on the areas where the manufacturer recommends. I'm of the opinion to let the gasket do the work, it shouldn't require sealant. I did show in the video what was causing the leak at the oil pan gasket. Dye could be used to help find the leak for sure. Thanks for your comment.