Nioceer!!! This very usefull information,! Specially with that show lace, that really blew my mind, i never thought sanding that, that way.. i appreaciate your video,! Thank u very much!!!
I did the exact same thing on my 335 with semi spun bearings and rod knock cylinders four and five (there was no scoring that my fingernail could catch on however.). I only needed to use 2500 emery cloth and a shoelace with some mothers metal polish and they came out like glass. We have been beating on the engine since then with new calico coated king rod bearings and it’s been flawless! Knock on wood!!!!!!!!
@@nicholaspickard14You don’t need to run an undersized bearing “usually” with this method. You’re mostly just polishing and not removing a whole lot of material. When you have the crank turned at a machinist, they take off a lot more material. That’s when you would need an undersized bearing. Hope this helps. 🤙🏻
Thanks for this great video.The shoe laces worked so easy for me, a great idea! Surface is smooth as a baby's behind! You explained everything in a clear understanding!
That is the best I have seen just bought a Honda CR-V 2.2idtec no3spun it lock up on tick over so now I can do this to old engine put one in it with56thou on but the old one as only done106thou I think there cud b oil restricted to this one all other r fine was getting diesel in oil injector tip gone off one injector a project car u no something to do over winter but done car since 17yr old now74 it’s like heart surgery this one but nearly done very good vid and thanku
Sei un grande!!!!!mi hai fatto vedere sul tuo video come risolvere (spero)il problema al perno di biella del mio albero motore!!!😎😎un caro saluto dal Nord Italia (Belluno)
This is a very nice method and I really appreciate you explaining in detail every step one thing I wanted to say is that I didn't see if you did or not you said use some WD-40 on your 320 and all your grits or just a little bit of water is fine and soap just like if you were wet sanding your paint and then also I don't know if you could do this on main bearings cuz some of the main bearings do not have barely a little bit of clearance for a shoestring to even get maybe a wire on sandpaper like a piece of welding wire or something like that or fence sign wire that is like an aluminum or something like that I could probably try that get in the real tight places
Excellent DIY stuff. I would suggest adding at least one step in grit size between 1000 and 2000. There’ll be less time spent with 2000 and less time overall.
Nicely done, however there's always the risk in polishing a crank in situ (as it cannot be hot washed afterwards, as on a full engine rebuild). The tiny particles of leftover abrasive can wreak havoc in the engine. No matter how meticoluosly one cleans the journal after the polishing, it's only a hot pressure wash that can fully remove microscopic abrasive particles. At least, a double oil & filter change is a must after doing this operation in situ (50 miles, drain & refill, new filter, then after 100-120 miles, repeat oil & filter change). Best of luck!
Spun a bearing in a 4.6 , did this and its ran 26000 and still going. I also preprime it after a 2-4 hours of resting by holding gas down and cranking 10-12 seconds. No metal in oil
Nice work im doing the same thing to a 2003 Nissan Frontier. The bearings were fine but im replacing everything since they want new parts top and bottom.
Great vid! I’m doing this now on my 328 with the N51, spun rod bearing on cyl. 6. Surprisingly, only very minimal scoring and some copper, I’ve got a couple hours into the journal alone and I’m still not there yet. I have one score that covers only about 1/4 of the journal. Clearance is about .038 right now witch is right in between the min/max. you can barely feel the score, almost can’t catch it with my nail. Should I leave it as is or keep sanding it til it’s gone and risk taking too much material off the journal and be out of tolerance?
I am thankful of the video. My e93 with n54 engine seized and I found out it chewed up the rod bearing worst on piston2. Even though you did not show the step by step sand papers job and the use of the brake cleaner and wb40 I still get the idea.😁 What I like is you did it on the exact engine I seeked solutions. Thanks body😎👍
Great video i was really looking for this, when I dropped the pan on my n54 cylinder 6 bearings where gone so I found just paper thick Half a circle metal in there so i wanna see if i Polish the crank the way you didi it how can i do the clearance and if I should do anything to the connecting rod ?
Agree, if your bearings are that bad, then I doubt a simple polish will fix. A used engine would be your cheapest fix. I would guess rods and crank need replacing
Nice. I have a v6 3.3L VG33E Nissan motor with a worn crank and it started causing knock about 160,000 miles. Bearing material confirmed in oil. I have had the motor removed and a used one put in. I want to remove the crank from the motor that's sitting in a tire, with the crank exposed and facing upward. I want to hand sand the crank and reinstall. Do you have or know of any basic guidance to do this? I've never done this before. Thanks.
So, 320-through-2,000 is all and only WD40. Then only the metal polish and the rag/towel for the remainder until mirror finish? This is a wild question: On my BBC a 454, I have 225,000.00 miles. It never dry starts, but the oil pressure is low but functional (10 PSI/1,000 RPM). I don't want to spin a bearing and I don't want to pull the engine. I was thinking of doing this exact process and new standard bearings on the rods. However, I can remove both the upper and lower MAIN bearings but not the two end-main bearings (front and back). Would it make sense to only do the main bearings (polish as you did rods and replace with standard bearings) I can get to and leave the ends alone (since I can't get them off with crank in block)? I think you and most would say definitely do the rod bearings, my real question is about the mains as I have described it here. Any thoughts about the rods are appreciated as well. The compression is good as it passes California SMOG testing which is more stringent than anywhere and they made it even harder to pass as the truck now has to exceed what it did when new! It does pass even with those miles.
The sanding grits All depends on the condition of the journals . I'm not too familiar with the specs and bearing life on the 454 big block so I can't give you a clear answer there.
@@335iN54Enthusiast Thanks. In your UA-cam above on your Beemer motor, did you only use WD40 throughout the process of sanding with the progression of finer and finer grit paper and once finished with WD40, did you only use your recommended polish with cloth/towel to create the mirror finish on the crank journal?
i've seen this done a lot but does it not affect bearing clearances? does it shave off the top material or is it really just polishing? and does this put even pressure throughout the piece of sandpaper so that you don't get low/high spots on the crank journals? like i said i've seen this done a lot so i'm sure it doesn't cause any damage but there were just the questions i did have.
I just did mine in a Buick 350. Some light scoring and what not. Used 320, 600, 1200, and polish. Measured with a micrometer before and after. The change was less than I could measure. i.e. No greater than .00005 (I don't think it removes much material. ;)
I think you need a micrometer measure the journals first b4 any thing write down the measure ments and when you done measure them again and compare the readings if its more than ten thousandth of an inch shaved off put 0.25 oversize bearings if its over twenty thousandth of an ich shaved put 0.5 like that you will get it right its just engineering done at home its possible but takes time and labour but it saves you money
Are you still using your car. Did you find any solution. My motor is also making same noise after 180000KMs I doubt rod bearing and planning to change them.
Hi there, thanks for this video, I'm going down this path with my Land Rover Discovery 3 because I'm seeing bearing wear in my oil. I will definitely be following this to clean up the crankshaft. I was just wondering whether you had any suggestion for the main bearings, as I will be replacing these also. Obviously there's not much room to move around the crankshaft, so I'm wondering whether this sand and polish method is somewhat viable in that case or not.
Will “Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish” work as well? Says perfect for all metals shines and protects. Just double checking that this is the same type of product and will also polish and clean the crank. Thank you.
Very informative video . My machine shop guy charges 30 dollars to polish a crankshaft. It looks like you were using quality sand paper including the can of wd40 I’m wondering how much money you spent doing this? I see that I’m about 3 years late because this is an older video. Things being what they are now if you had it to do all over again would you have done it differently and sent it out and spent the small amount of money to get it done?
Polishing is the work involved to get the crank out/remove the entire engine. To remove the crank to polish is much work. This is the technique to “kick the can down the road” balling on a budget, hot rodder recipes and all of that DIY and garage warrior. If you’re questioning this technique then pay a mechanic $5-25k for a new engine. Instead of $50 and a weekend.
I really appreciate this video it's given me more confidence as I'm planning on doing this job. I have a few questions and idk it might sound dumb, you turn the crankshaft bolt 'clockwise' right? Along prior to that removing the spark plugs to allow/release compression? Will turning the crankshaft mess up timing once everything is all put back together?
I mean it's perfect if you got that kind of time and want to be a perfectionist but its really not necessary to be this excessive. Sand it with 2000 grit til it's smooth with no fingernail ridges, blast it with brake cleaner, throw some oil stabilizer or assembly lube on the journal and then assemble your bearings and rod caps and that should be sufficient. If its that bad that you have to use 350 grit then you're probably going to need oversized bearings. At least .10.
Also, The Japanese use emery cloth on the rods lightly in an X pattern (3 or 4 of them) and clean thoroughly. This helps keep the pressed in bearing in place. Use nothing behind it unless it is a drop or 2 of ATF. Then on the bearing faces use lucas . * take a bent straw parts cleaner and clear the oil ports in the the crank shaft. Be sure to completely clean the oil pan pick up tube and oil pump so that whatever metalic particulate got in there is clear. Assemble and tighten to specs and you are good. Keep an eye on the cooling sys. That and failure to distribute oil to the motor and co.ponants was the cause, more than likely. Or in my case a half- assed attempt to conceal in order to sell the vehicle. Shame on any and all that do that. Karma nothing- God doesn't miss an address. Is he my vindicator ? You'd better believe it !
Im no engine builder, but shouldnt you have the crank out when doing this? I dont think its far fetched that enough material came off to unbalance your crank or even to have gapped your tolerances between the journals and bearings because of the "sanding till the scoring is gone".
Not necessary. Only if it's machined. Secondly with BMW tight bearing clearances...I highly recommend doing this to give just a little bit more clearance and that extra protection against spun bearings.
Even if he sanded for 24 hours on each journal, it would affect the balance of the crank as much as you hanging your clothes on the floor or in the closet affects the earth's balance.
Nioceer!!! This very usefull information,! Specially with that show lace, that really blew my mind, i never thought sanding that, that way.. i appreaciate your video,! Thank u very much!!!
I did the exact same thing on my 335 with semi spun bearings and rod knock cylinders four and five (there was no scoring that my fingernail could catch on however.). I only needed to use 2500 emery cloth and a shoelace with some mothers metal polish and they came out like glass. We have been beating on the engine since then with new calico coated king rod bearings and it’s been flawless! Knock on wood!!!!!!!!
Still going strong?
Did you run an undersized bearing?
@@nicholaspickard14You don’t need to run an undersized bearing “usually” with this method. You’re mostly just polishing and not removing a whole lot of material. When you have the crank turned at a machinist, they take off a lot more material. That’s when you would need an undersized bearing. Hope this helps. 🤙🏻
@@BlackwaterDSM Agreed. Even if you had a lathe, it takes foreeevvveeer just to remove .0005 with sand paper.
In same situation, cylinder 4 lol😂
Thanks for this great video.The shoe laces worked so easy for me, a great idea! Surface is smooth as a baby's behind! You explained everything in a clear understanding!
Your a brave man to do this in the car plus having the crank installed. Well done.
Just did this today on a 2014 Hyundai 2.0L, Took me about 4 hours to complete but it’s back running like new again.
how is it holding up?
How was it running
Thank you sir very nice video and its very helpful for every 1, me from Bhutan I really succeeded after watching this video
All the best
Instead of getting all that Polish in your oil hole, just put a little plug of paper in there and when you’re done make sure you take it out
That is the best I have seen just bought a Honda CR-V 2.2idtec no3spun it lock up on tick over so now I can do this to old engine put one in it with56thou on but the old one as only done106thou I think there cud b oil restricted to this one all other r fine was getting diesel in oil injector tip gone off one injector a project car u no something to do over winter but done car since 17yr old now74 it’s like heart surgery this one but nearly done very good vid and thanku
Quick question: How has this held up? Any updates on how this went or lessons learned? Please and Thank You! Gr8 video!
Man lasted for 5 years with no issues and the new owner still has it
How did you select your rod bearings afterwards? Were they standard size?
Fantastic, especially the shoelace method. Thanks so much.
What were your bearing clearances after polishing? Finish on journals looks good.
Sei un grande!!!!!mi hai fatto vedere sul tuo video come risolvere (spero)il problema al perno di biella del mio albero motore!!!😎😎un caro saluto dal Nord Italia (Belluno)
This is a very nice method and I really appreciate you explaining in detail every step one thing I wanted to say is that I didn't see if you did or not you said use some WD-40 on your 320 and all your grits or just a little bit of water is fine and soap just like if you were wet sanding your paint and then also I don't know if you could do this on main bearings cuz some of the main bearings do not have barely a little bit of clearance for a shoestring to even get maybe a wire on sandpaper like a piece of welding wire or something like that or fence sign wire that is like an aluminum or something like that I could probably try that get in the real tight places
Excellent DIY stuff. I would suggest adding at least one step in grit size between 1000 and 2000. There’ll be less time spent with 2000 and less time overall.
Nicely done, however there's always the risk in polishing a crank in situ (as it cannot be hot washed afterwards, as on a full engine rebuild).
The tiny particles of leftover abrasive can wreak havoc in the engine.
No matter how meticoluosly one cleans the journal
after the polishing, it's only a hot pressure wash that can fully remove microscopic
abrasive particles.
At least, a double oil
& filter change is a must after doing this operation in situ (50 miles, drain & refill, new filter, then after 100-120 miles, repeat oil & filter change).
Best of luck!
Yeah I agree
No wonder you felt the need to polish those journals ! It is worth the effort to polish and radius those oil feed holes.
Spun a bearing in a 4.6 , did this and its ran 26000 and still going. I also preprime it after a 2-4 hours of resting by holding gas down and cranking 10-12 seconds. No metal in oil
Great info vid ,,BTW how much metal you taking off using ti method ?
Not much
Use an ear foamy to stick into the oil hole.
Nice
Great video and information, came in helpful
Nice work im doing the same thing to a 2003 Nissan Frontier. The bearings were fine but im replacing everything since they want new parts top and bottom.
Nice work ❤
Great vid! I’m doing this now on my 328 with the N51, spun rod bearing on cyl. 6. Surprisingly, only very minimal scoring and some copper, I’ve got a couple hours into the journal alone and I’m still not there yet. I have one score that covers only about 1/4 of the journal. Clearance is about .038 right now witch is right in between the min/max. you can barely feel the score, almost can’t catch it with my nail. Should I leave it as is or keep sanding it til it’s gone and risk taking too much material off the journal and be out of tolerance?
Ya id say as long as you smoothed out the scoring so it doesn't eat the bearing up you don't need to take it out 100%.
I am thankful of the video. My e93 with n54 engine seized and I found out it chewed up the rod bearing worst on piston2.
Even though you did not show the step by step sand papers job and the use of the brake cleaner and wb40 I still get the idea.😁
What I like is you did it on the exact engine I seeked solutions.
Thanks body😎👍
So did you end buy polishing ur crankshaft or replacing it?
Great video i was really looking for this, when I dropped the pan on my n54 cylinder 6 bearings where gone so I found just paper thick Half a circle metal in there so i wanna see if i Polish the crank the way you didi it how can i do the clearance and if I should do anything to the connecting rod ?
The rod is garbage.
@@335iN54Enthusiast what do you mean garbage? Do u mean not to worry about it ?
I mean replace it. It's probably slightly out of round now. Check the roundness with a dial gauge then you'll know if it's still useable.
Agree, if your bearings are that bad, then I doubt a simple polish will fix. A used engine would be your cheapest fix. I would guess rods and crank need replacing
Nice. I have a v6 3.3L VG33E Nissan motor with a worn crank and it started causing knock about 160,000 miles. Bearing material confirmed in oil. I have had the motor removed and a used one put in. I want to remove the crank from the motor that's sitting in a tire, with the crank exposed and facing upward. I want to hand sand the crank and reinstall. Do you have or know of any basic guidance to do this? I've never done this before. Thanks.
I assume this will work for mains as well? Me and my old man pulled the engine out of our jeep and we want to reuse the crank
Thank you very much
Fantastic
So, 320-through-2,000 is all and only WD40. Then only the metal polish and the rag/towel for the remainder until mirror finish?
This is a wild question: On my BBC a 454, I have 225,000.00 miles. It never dry starts, but the oil pressure is low but functional (10 PSI/1,000 RPM). I don't want to spin a bearing and I don't want to pull the engine. I was thinking of doing this exact process and new standard bearings on the rods. However, I can remove both the upper and lower MAIN bearings but not the two end-main bearings (front and back). Would it make sense to only do the main bearings (polish as you did rods and replace with standard bearings) I can get to and leave the ends alone (since I can't get them off with crank in block)? I think you and most would say definitely do the rod bearings, my real question is about the mains as I have described it here. Any thoughts about the rods are appreciated as well. The compression is good as it passes California SMOG testing which is more stringent than anywhere and they made it even harder to pass as the truck now has to exceed what it did when new! It does pass even with those miles.
The sanding grits All depends on the condition of the journals . I'm not too familiar with the specs and bearing life on the 454 big block so I can't give you a clear answer there.
@@335iN54Enthusiast Thanks. In your UA-cam above on your Beemer motor, did you only use WD40 throughout the process of sanding with the progression of finer and finer grit paper and once finished with WD40, did you only use your recommended polish with cloth/towel to create the mirror finish on the crank journal?
Thats right
Great video 👍🏾
Thanks for watching
Can you do this same step with the main bearings
No
i've seen this done a lot but does it not affect bearing clearances? does it shave off the top material or is it really just polishing? and does this put even pressure throughout the piece of sandpaper so that you don't get low/high spots on the crank journals? like i said i've seen this done a lot so i'm sure it doesn't cause any damage but there were just the questions i did have.
Always check bearing clearance.
I just did mine in a Buick 350. Some light scoring and what not. Used 320, 600, 1200, and polish. Measured with a micrometer before and after. The change was less than I could measure. i.e. No greater than .00005 (I don't think it removes much material. ;)
I think you need a micrometer measure the journals first b4 any thing write down the measure ments and when you done measure them again and compare the readings if its more than ten thousandth of an inch shaved off put 0.25 oversize bearings if its over twenty thousandth of an ich shaved put 0.5 like that you will get it right its just engineering done at home its possible but takes time and labour but it saves you money
Are you still using your car. Did you find any solution.
My motor is also making same noise after 180000KMs
I doubt rod bearing and planning to change them.
Hi there, thanks for this video, I'm going down this path with my Land Rover Discovery 3 because I'm seeing bearing wear in my oil. I will definitely be following this to clean up the crankshaft. I was just wondering whether you had any suggestion for the main bearings, as I will be replacing these also. Obviously there's not much room to move around the crankshaft, so I'm wondering whether this sand and polish method is somewhat viable in that case or not.
This won't work for main bearings unless its fully disassembled
Will “Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish” work as well? Says perfect for all metals shines and protects. Just double checking that this is the same type of product and will also polish and clean the crank. Thank you.
Possibly but I don't recommend it.
How are you doing the mains in place? That’s what I need to know. I don’t have much room in there.
Mains? Motor has to come out.
Very informative video . My machine shop guy charges 30 dollars to polish a crankshaft.
It looks like you were using quality sand paper including the can of wd40 I’m wondering how much money you spent doing this? I see that I’m about 3 years late because this is an older video. Things being what they are now if you had it to do all over again would you have done it differently and sent it out and spent the small amount of money to get it done?
I spent under 30$ .There's a huge difference between sanding a crank and polishing a crank. Polishing doesn't require sandpaper....
Polishing is the work involved to get the crank out/remove the entire engine. To remove the crank to polish is much work.
This is the technique to “kick the can down the road” balling on a budget, hot rodder recipes and all of that DIY and garage warrior.
If you’re questioning this technique then pay a mechanic $5-25k for a new engine. Instead of $50 and a weekend.
I really appreciate this video it's given me more confidence as I'm planning on doing this job. I have a few questions and idk it might sound dumb, you turn the crankshaft bolt 'clockwise' right? Along prior to that removing the spark plugs to allow/release compression? Will turning the crankshaft mess up timing once everything is all put back together?
Yes clockwise. Plugs can be removed.... won't affect timing
Interesting 👍
I mean it's perfect if you got that kind of time and want to be a perfectionist but its really not necessary to be this excessive. Sand it with 2000 grit til it's smooth with no fingernail ridges, blast it with brake cleaner, throw some oil stabilizer or assembly lube on the journal and then assemble your bearings and rod caps and that should be sufficient. If its that bad that you have to use 350 grit then you're probably going to need oversized bearings. At least .10.
Did you install new bearings or reinstall old bearings?
New obviously
can i do this for 350 rear main seal, the old seal has put very light marks in the crank.
Sure check your clearances afterwards
@335iN54Enthusiast How long did it held, after doing it like that?
Still going strong
Hey bro how did it go after u replace it and what kind of bearings did u use
Good. I used king bearings.
Nice
After polishing you can still use standard engine bearings
Always measure bearing clearance first.
Did you have to go oversized rod bearings or just went standard size ?
Standard
How do you turn the crank ?
A socket wrench on crank hub
Thanks. Is this the first time you do it in this way? Any experience return before?
I've done it before. Other people have done it before...it works well.
I've done this on an N54 before. You're good to go as long as the journal is minimally scratched
What's the tolerance? Did you measure it?
No...I don't have a proper measuring tool.
@@335iN54Enthusiast
Prime on Amazon? 10 GBP ?
Ah yes the plasti gauge. Yes I will be measuring the clearance.
My 4.7 V8 out of my 02 Dodge Dakota spun ALL of the rod bearings and this is what it's come to. It's nasty
now i know how to get job done vith less effort thanks lad
Where you seeing bearing metals in your oil or something?
Yes there was little bit of material in oil.
Also, The Japanese use emery cloth on the rods lightly in an X pattern (3 or 4 of them) and clean thoroughly. This helps keep the pressed in bearing in place. Use nothing behind it unless it is a drop or 2 of ATF. Then on the bearing faces use lucas .
* take a bent straw parts cleaner and clear the oil ports in the the crank shaft.
Be sure to completely clean the oil pan pick up tube and oil pump so that whatever metalic particulate got in there is clear. Assemble and tighten to specs and you are good.
Keep an eye on the cooling sys. That and failure to distribute oil to the motor and co.ponants was the cause, more than likely. Or in my case a half- assed attempt to conceal in order to sell the vehicle.
Shame on any and all that do that. Karma nothing- God doesn't miss an address.
Is he my vindicator ? You'd better believe it !
Bearing crush keeps it in place, nothing else
Im no engine builder, but shouldnt you have the crank out when doing this? I dont think its far fetched that enough material came off to unbalance your crank or even to have gapped your tolerances between the journals and bearings because of the "sanding till the scoring is gone".
Not necessary. Only if it's machined. Secondly with BMW tight bearing clearances...I highly recommend doing this to give just a little bit more clearance and that extra protection against spun bearings.
Even if he sanded for 24 hours on each journal, it would affect the balance of the crank as much as you hanging your clothes on the floor or in the closet affects the earth's balance.