3.6 Pentastar Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon JKUR Oil Cooler Replacement How To Oil Leak Fix
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- #OILLEAK #JK #JLUR #JEEP #WRANGLER
Check out this other great oil cooler video for more info and details!
• 3.2 3.6 Pentastar Jeep...
Oil cooler to engine block is 106 in-lbs
Upper intake bolts 89 in-lbs
Lower intake bolts 106 in-lbs
3.6 Pentastar Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon JKUR Oil Cooler Replacement How To.
A common oil leak on the 3.6L engine in Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Wrangler Jeep Cherokee Dodge Durango
Check out this other great oil cooler video for more info and details!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
Oil cooler to engine block is 106 in-lbs
Upper intake bolts 89 in-lbs
Lower intake bolts 106 in-lbs
Thanks for the view!
Does the manual transmission JL have an oil cooler?
@@Silverhands Yes both the auto and manual have oil coolers.
I know it’s been some time. But 106 in lbs torque for the oil cooler to block bolts? Are these torque specs for the 2012 Jeep Wrangler? That seems like an awful lot of torque for those bolts.
You are also saying 89 in lbs for the upper intake to lower intake?? Metal bolts to plastic?? Really? That’s impossible you’d strip and break everything!
@@richierich1169 Yes these are the correct torque specs for a 2012 Wrangler. Keep in mind that an inch pound is 1/12 a foot pound. Nothing strips and everything seals up nicely when you torque to spec.
106 in lbs == 8.8 ft lbs
89 in lbs == 7.4 ft lbs
@@richierich1169 you are correct. The torque for the upper manifold is 62-79 inch lbs NOT 89. It is embossed on my manifold (7-9 newton meters) you can see it also on the manifold in this video, passenger side by the rear bolt.
Hey man, thank you so much for making this video. I’m no mechanic and this was the most advanced auto repair I’ve ever attempted. I went slow over two days and did it with no leaks or codes! Besides the injector plugs being designed by satan, I got my dorman unit installed. The only thing I broke was the pcv vent tube while taking it out of the clamp. I fixed that with a short section of rubber tubing joining the snapped tube and was good to go. Thanks again for expanding this layman’s abilities!
Glad I could help! This video also has some good info on the repair. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
Same problem..lost some religion.. cussing the connectors
After experiencing coolant spilling over my bell housing and not finding ANY hint of where it was coming- my research pointed to the oil/coolant filter housing. After watching a few videos, I’m really appreciative that you provided yours. This, to me, is an excellent guide. You did a great job! Thanks again!!
This video though on a cherokee also should have some good info on the repair.
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
Thank you so much for the good comment and thanks for the view!
Just finished this job a few hours ago, thanks for making the process alot less daunting, no leaks so far and keeping my fingers crossed with a keen eye watching for any warnings! Thanks a bunch!
Nice work! Glad I could help, Thanks for the view!
If I could pay you I would, I literally watched this video the whole time I was doing it
Thanks for the view man!
Zach, you can, clik the "thanks" button above subscribe button to send $$$.
Second this, but serious about it. Got a Venmo?
I do actually lol Venmo @Tyler-Potter62 glad I could help! Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter how long does this actually take to do? I know it's edited and I figured this was a 3 hour job.
Wow you made that look Super simple and really not that complex , as long as you keep items in order and don’t forget to hook up. I was told it would take a mechanic 4 to 6 hours and cost $1100 with parts and labor. You just blew that scenario out of the water. Thanks and props to you it doesn’t look that daunting anymore.
Thanks! Here is a recent video that explains things even better it think. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
I want to thank you! Your video got me thru the install in about 3 hours and been running great with no leaks for a couple weeks now. Great video, saved me $$. 👍🏼
Great to hear! Thanks for the view!
Dam man this is one of the most comprehensive and clearly outlined instructional vids I’ve watched, thank you.
This one is probably even better but on a FWD platform, still some good info. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
The video is shot with much forethought, and it shows.
I just did this job. Took me a few hrs. A couple of tips: Get that clip removal tool he has. There are A LOT of clips in this. Disconnecting the fuel injectors was the most difficult part. Also, contrary to what has been said, it is very easy to drop stuff into the engine so take care to make sure that doesn't happen. For removing the lower intake manifold: I disconnected driver said fuel injectors first, loosened all the fasteners, wiggled the manifold, and removed the pass. side injectors (they are the ones buried under all those hoses). Also, I didn't have that rush of coolant that he used the pinch of pliers on the back of the oil cooler for, some coolant came out but nothing significant (maybe I'm low?)
All good info! Thanks for the view!
This was really helpful Stealer ship wanted $2000 I bought the cooler from EBay and thanks to this video did it myself took 3hrs thanks bro you are the man!!!
Thanks for the most informative, detailed, and well edited video. Now I know what all is involved. I thought about doing this repair for a friend's low mileage 2015 Wrangler, but it looks like more than I want to tackle. (The aftermath of COVID, the brain says "We can do this! The body says "No way!")
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much ! I follow your video and change my cooler, took me 3 hours and it works like new. You saved me $1000
No problem, Thanks for the view!
This is a brilliant video, and the most comprehensive I've seen on this subject. I'm confident I can replace the oil cooler on my Wrangler tomorrow. Thank you!
you are a good man. Thanks for the video. A friend of my wife's has had some real bad luck. Her apartment was flooded in the hurricane, and then she moved into a mobile home only to find water damage, then her jeep started to randomly overheat. Looks like the dealership used stop leak to seal the oil cooler rather than fix it under warrantee. I'm going to attempt it tomorrow. You saved her over $1,400
Awesome thanks for the view!
Excellent video tutorial. Thank you so much for this. I was able to complete in less than 4 hours. I also changed the spark plugs while I was in there. Looks like you did this in about 20 min. Nice work!!!
Awesome glad you got it taken care of! Thanks for the view!
Part will be here tomorrow and I'm dreading this job. Nothing ever comes off in one go for me. Thanks for this video!!
Thanks for the view!
Hey, thank you for this video. I had no mechanical experience and I followed every step in this video and I was able to replace this part.
Great to hear! Thanks for the view!
I can’t thank you enough for this video. It was a huge help and a great step by step tutorial to get this done. It made it so much easier. Thanks again.
Thanks for the view!
Thanks so much for your video ! I followed your video and changed the oil pressure sensor switch as it was causing a check engine light from time to time which would not allow my granddaughters jeep (college student) to pass the state EPA inspection? Thanks again as we were able to save the $1400 dollars the dealer wanted to replace it and apply it towards a semester costs of her education.
Wow that is awesome! Glad I could help! Thanks for the view!
Great tutorial, took 4 hours and change for me including a significant amount of cleanup and went ahead and changed the thermostat while there.....Figuring out how to get the fuel pump connectors off was my biggest problem....Much patience was needed but little was exercised! LOL
Glad you got it! Yeah those fuel injector clips are a massive pain! Thanks for the view!
Well, after studyinig your videos intensely, I replaced my oil cooler this afternoon. Connectors & tabs are the most challenging part IMO.
Big thanks Tyler for putting this tutorial together.
No problem this one is also a good one to watch for info. Thanks for the view!
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Literally anyone with a 3.6 is having this issue I just placed a order for 5 units and I’m looking at April time frame , overall a bad design that’s been a issue since 2013 and still no recall thanks fca
No one has it right now!!! Mine just started leaking
@@Tfam305 yea man it’s shitty
for some reason that super cold weather killed a lot of them.
Guys go on Morris 4x4 they had 11 left as of this week! Mine will be in this Sunday
@@Tfam305 don’t go aftermarket if it’s not oem u will be replacing it in a year
Hello, thank you very much for the video, I have the same problem in my Wrangler 3.6 year 2014 and I did not know what was happening.
greetings from Coyhaique CHILEAN PATAGONIA
Glad it helped! Thanks for the view!
Did this with caravan, seems the same idea. Appreciate your time there.
Thanks! This is the second time I will need to replace it, but this time it's not under warranty. This video was very good, so I am going to attempt it myself.
Thanks for the view! Glad I could help.
First off, Thank you so much for this video! It helped me so much fixing a way too common in all 3.6L engines. Second, I do caution novice DIYs on attacking this themselves. There are many frustrations that you will run into and you will question your sanity a lot. Before starting make sure you have socket extenders, some of these both are just tough to get too. Make sure you have no where to drive too for a few days because it may take you more than just one afternoon like others have been successful with, so don't rush. The biggest trouble I ran into was removing the fuel injector plugs from the fuel rail. Damn red safety clips are a bitch especially when they put brackets and wiring in your way. Something soo stupid pissed me off for too long. This project took me a solid two days of just taking my time as it was 30 degrees out. Putting things back together was a lot easier. I have been the driveway family mechanic for 10 years and I do not look forward to doing this again. Do your best to find the aluminum cooler dorman 926-876 so you can avoid cracks in the future but always out of stock! Good luck Jeepers, MillerLites help a lot.
Thanks for the info and view! This video is also some good info for the repair.
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
eBay..89$....this job took me an hour..in the driveway.... southern Mississippi..75 deg today....back is sore...but job done..used the all aluminum replacement....2013 dodge challenger...just bought the car last week.. salvage yard find..a friend owns the yard..3,500 bucks for the car...black on black...runs perfect...in nice shape...
I unhooked the coils,,,left the injectors alone..there are a pain in the butt.....
I unhooked the coils,,,left the injectors alone..there are a pain in the butt.....
I unhooked the coils,,,left the injectors alone..there are a pain in the butt.....
You make this look doable for a diy person. How long does it take you on average to do that job? Yes i know it will take me 2 or 3 times longer but I know most shops charge a standard labor fee and i want to decide if it's worth it to do it myself if the time comes. I also would like your opinion on Dorman aluminum replacement parts. Would recommend upgrading to aluminum parts when doing this job or thermostat housing replacement jobs?
Clear, concise, informative, and amazing. I just wanted to replace the oil pressure sensor but I am hesitant about whether or not I should do it but your video gave me some confidence, I have turned some wrenches in my lifetime but have never done something this risky. Do you think I should try doing it myself? 😬
If you take your time you should be fine, the oil pressure sensor is located on the back of the oil cooler, so you won't even need to unbolt the oil cooler, just unplug the oil sensors and replace the pressure switch once the intake is off. Thanks for the view!
Fantastic video, thank for making it. I am going to be replacing my oil cooler next weekend so this help tremendously.
This video also has a lot of great info. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
Bro, thank you very much!
I didn't find a suitable video in Russian, in your opinion I did everything without any problems!
Thanks again!
This car doesn't like our frosts)
great video so nice to see it as you were well organized and stuck to exactly the point of showing the work and getting it done.
Thanks for the view!
Correct me if I'm wrong, isn't disconnecting the negative battery terminal one of the first steps in the procedure? Seems I remember this always being in almost every service manual back when I was wrenching twenty...just the other day...Excellent explanation, very informative and clear with good pointers. Well done Tyler
You are totally correct, the service manual says that for about everything! Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter Yeah, sometimes for the most ridiculous jobs, too. Remember, warnings are because they got sued for an idiot getting hurt doing something normal people would never consider, like using a hair dryer while in a tub of water.
Thank you very much. video was super easy to follow. Disassembly went fine, cleanup was a breeze using a vacuum extraction tool to suction that mess up. No leaks. Unfortunately, i pinched the map sensor connector/wires when i installed the upper intake manifold (didn't see the MAP connector and it got pinched between the upper manifold and the metal bracket where the 10mm nuts attach to the manifold studs). The wires on the MAP harness look ok but i am getting P0108 (MAP) and P0113 (IAT) errors. The Intake Air Temp sensor is connected as is the MAP sensor. Not sure if i have a vacuum leak, pinched MAP wire by the connector or something else. ugh.
Yeah there is a lot going on back there. Hopefully you got it taken care of. Thanks for the view!
Those M12 stubbies are the best thing ever
It was a big learning curve coming from my old 12v dewalt. I broke a lot of bolts getting used to it lol Thanks for the view!
Excellent video brother. I went with the aluminum replacement on our 2015 Wrangler. I thought maybe it was the housing itself that was the issue being plastic and the fact we bought it used. I always torque the oil filter housing but it turned out the seals on the bottom were the issue.
Anyone with a 3.6 with 100000 miles should probably just replace it.
Thanks again
No problem, I still haven't gotten to install one of the aluminum ones yet. Thanks for the view!
That was really a 20 min job? Man you made this look extremely easy. I think I feel confident enough to tackle this myself.
The clean up will take about 3 times that long lol Thanks for the view!
I am working on min now... I am 3 hours in... Got the new cooler on and putting it all back together now... Little things that he does quickly took me WAY longer.. like unplugging the fuel injectors.... I didn't want to break anything.. and after pulling the red tab up to unlock, it took a lot of pull to unseat them (rubber ring seal). Also, just reaching the tabs on the oil cooler was tough.. Also a 1/4 inch splined socket will work in place of the inverted E8 torx.
Thank you so much. I followed this video and I just finished the job. The hardest part was dealing with the passenger side and the connectors on the back of the oil cooler. I wish I bought a power ratchet as well. You save me a 1000 dollars man. Thank you. I put the upgraded doorman metal part in. I did get a p0113 intake air temp code. I clean the TB so I wonder if I damaged the sensors in the tube.
That's awesome! A lot of times if the intake temp sensor does not get plugged in fully it will set the code. I would unplug and plug it back in and try clearing the code to see if it returns. Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter well so much for that haha, looks like my jeep puked out all it its oil. I took it to the dealer and they thing its the housing. I am just having them do it this time. But i learned lots from your video. My guess was a frozen pcv, (-40c here in canada) this week.
Great video, pretty confident i can pull this off. Wondering why you didnt go for a cast aluminum replacement.
Thanks a lot! You removed those fuel injector red clips and plugs in about 2 sec each........I broke 3 and fought them for an hour.
Just did this job ,,on a 2013 dodge challenger..3.6 L....used the all aluminum replacement part.926-876
Came with upper and lower intake manifold gaskets...83,79$ ebay....
89.50$,,,with tax....took about an hour in the driveway... pretty easy job... Un plug coils instead of the injectors... makes it easier....
Nice glad it went well! Thanks for the view!
Just wanted to let you know that this video was extremely helpful. I watched this step by step and it made it go SOOO easy. Thanks for sharing. I did like and subscribe to your channel.
Thank you! Got er done today. I am a banker with limited mechanical know how. I equate my advancement today to a pimple popper becoming a brain surgeon. Thanks to your great video!
That is awesome to hear! Thanks for the view!
Nice video! My daughter’s boyfriend and his father did this on her 2015 Jeep JKU tonight. Wish I was there to do it. I thought it was more daunting, but you made it look easy. If ours ever lets go on our 2012 JKU, at least I know what to expect. Again, nice video!!! 👍🏻😎
Thanks for the view!
I hope he earned your blessing! 🎉
Thank you, great video, the dealer wanted $1800+ to do that. My warranty ran out in January (it's now April). I do believe I can do this!!
This video also has alot of good info. Thanks for the view!
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Our 10th Anniversary Jeep wrangler is our first ever american car. your video has helped me gain confidence in tackling this job. Unfortunately from everywhere i'm reading, the oil cooler is back ordered everywhere!
Yes they were on a massive back order but I thought they were coming back into stock as of recent, but I haven't checked for a week or so.
@@TylerPotter I lucked out after calling 10 dealerships today. Luckily, a local guy had one at his shop! Secured one and will be tackling this saturday
Awesome good to hear!
@@TylerPotter thanks for this video. I completed the job yesterday.
Awesome good to hear!
Fantastic explanation. I appreciate taking the time to detail what each thing is as well as demonstrate the removal. Seriously. Helps me with my sister in law’s Jeep.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the view!
Its actually possible to tighten down the intake plenum without the thing being seated. Ive done that before. I had to take all that back apart and re-seat the intake. And if its not perfectly seated it will suck air from the side and wont run right.
You are totally correct! I have almost done that myself also. Thanks for the view!
oh man as you were working on those intakes without putting rags in there I was just holding my breath that that socket didn't come off that auto rachet each time you were over the intake. Great video though.
Great Vid Tyler. I am trying this weekend to do this. Shopping for some hose pinch pliers and hose clamp pliers now.
This video also has some good info for the repair. Make sure you try and clean up all of the old oil from the valley of the motor for best results. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
Man one of the best videos of this fix.
How will the oil cooler leak manifest itself? Dealer quoted me $1.2k and am always weary when a dealership tells me I need to drop that much money for a leak. Thanks, in advance, for the insights, and great video!!!
Normally you will see oil leaking off the bottom of the jeep between the engine and transmission.
How many miles did you see the failure at? Thanks
Getting ready to replace this part for the SECOND time on my 2015. Thinking of doing it myself this time. So, thanks for posting.
Glad I could help. Look up the new aluminum Dorman cooler housing. Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter thank you for review , can you please provide link for site where can purchase it ,also be nice to receive item number for aluminium and MOPAR OEM 05184294AE
@Tyler Potter thank you for review , can you please provide link for site where can purchase it ,also be nice to receive item number for aluminium and MOPAR OEM 05184294AE
This video was extremely helpful!!! My Housing was not cracked but the gaskets on the bottom of the cooler were leaking oil.
Yep! That is pretty common, glad I could help! Thanks for the view!
What's the mileage on your jeep when you discovered the o-rings were leaking?
@@slugzkea 31,000 miles
@@filmvi37 jeez that's early. Warranty?
@@slugzkea We are in the US Virgin Islands. Trying to get work done at the dealer is next to impossible. We bought the Jeep from Budget Rental at 13,000 miles.
Great video. I've seen a few of these done now and yours doesn't look as daunting as others have made it out to be
Thanks for the view!
Worked perfectly ! thanks to your video was able to complete in a few hours, and changed the plugs while the intake was split.
You Rock !
Glad it helped! Thanks for the view!
No need to disconnect battery?
Thanks. This was very helpful. I had the upper intake off before but not any further. Made it easy to understand. The flip on the intake is great.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the view!
Super helpful! Thank you so much for putting in the effort to create this how to masterpiece.
Thanks! This other oil cooler video has some good info also. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
It goes nice and fast when the wire connector locks just slide like they should, instead of taking 10 minutes each and then crumbling into pieces when you try to lever them with a pick or small screwdriver. And then there's the PCV vent tube that is brittle from all the heat and snaps in the middle and you try to free it from the plastic support clip. Stop work and order the part, reset 2 days later. Oh, and then you find out that your injectors are crusted with burnt oil and crud, so you order those. And you find that the prior owner spliced wires directly to the inside of the coil pack because mice chewed the connector, so now you are waiting on a new coil pack and a new connector to splice in. And while you're replacing the PCV vent tube you may as well replace the PCV valve itself, so that gets ordered. And while you're waiting for parts to arrive, you decide you don't want to do this again, so you change the spark plugs. Did I miss anything ?
No I think you got it coved lol isn't working on cars a joy! Thanks for the view!
Awesome video not so scared anymore if my warranty doesn't cover it thank you!
Thanks for the view!
Well seems like I'm the only here who did way ...way more than just the intake...I forgot where all the freaking wires go. Pretty useful for that as well. I did the oil filter housing spark plugs, timing chains and guides, Radiator, obviously oil and Coolant as well as cleaning the air filter and checked the rocker arms in the valve train. Trust me this engine is a real task to work on and you'll need alot of professional grade tools. I am a Tech so I have no worries that way but the routing for the wiring harnesses is something easy to forget and not so fun to find how to put back
Nice sounds like you will have a happy engine after all of that! Thanks for the view!
Good video with explanation...few tips doing this DIY will save you $$$ Take it easy on electrical wires clips and ensure the bolts are tightened to manufacturer specified torque using star pattern. Replace the coolant :) good luck
Good tips and Thanks for the view!
So if i were upgrading my lower intake manifold to an aluminum manifold should i clamp the fule line shut? Ive never really wirked on vehicles and your video is helping me son much! Thank you for the info!
No need to clamp the fuel line, with the vehicle off there will be very little pressure on the fuel line after it has set for a while. Thanks for the view!
So WHICH oil cooler should I order, yours looks aluminum? 2016 3.6 Wrangler. What an awesome video.
Mine was just the factory Mopar plastic cooler, they do make an aftermarket aluminum now, but I haven't got to install one yet. Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter Yes, Dorman makes on ordered it today!
Funny thing, the Jeep quit leaking today? So strange!
I wish you could show the secrets on unhooking the electrical connections. I just destroyed one injector plug and now im about to destroy the plug on one of the sensors in the cooler.
The red lock tab needs to be pulled up 1st and then the tab on the connector, sometimes they still so stuck and still crack or break. Thanks for the view!
I have used the foam orange or yellow ear plugs to stop oil lines from dripping/leaking.
Interesting I have not heard of that. Thanks for the view!
Great video. What actually is the common problem with the Oil cooler. Does it crack? Do seals leak?
99% of the time we see the seals leak. Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter any recommendation where to buy the oil cooler and seals? Thank you.
Please change all intake gaskets and o-rings and you will stop problems for a long while. This is a very good engine if properly maintained. The 62te transmission is a very good transmission if also properly maintained with regular oil changes. Remember less than half the fluid is drained by removing the oil pan so needs done twice with filter replacement. My car gets 30mpg at 80mph so the engine is excellent as a last one before going electric.
Thanks for the good info!
Designed to fail, cmon Jeep. So many have this problem. Should be class action Lawsuit.
Appreciate the video, you are faster than any other video I saw on this.
Question; looked like you put the MOPAR part back on? Others putting solid aluminum cooler back in. What are your thoughts on the part itself?
So far we haven't been seeing the new Mopar coolers fail again just the original ones, but the aluminum one would be a good option also. Thanks for the view!
2months ago i went in and did all 6coils/plugs from a one misfire. Now i get a big oil puddle and its this. So now i have to go back in again which i wish i had info about the cheap oil housing and I could’ve replaced it while i had it tore down. Story of my jeeplife.
The cold weather seems to knock a lot of oil cooler out.
great video! getting ready to do for the 3rd time on my 2014... this time using the aluminum housing, enough with the plastic!
Sorry to hear that but hopefully the metal one will work for you. I haven't got to install one myself yet. Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter and strangely enough, now replacing again on 2012 JKU... with aluminum housing.... each jeep has had 2 plastic ones replaced... no more plastic, all aluminum
I've got a TJ with the 4.0... what a great engine !
The 4.0 is an awesome engine. I had a 2005 Wrangler Unlimited with it also! Thanks for the view!
Wish u would put a list of tools we need in the Description.. to do this job
Overall great video - BUT - Be careful with the reassembly portion of this video - an important detail was left out that can really cost you some money. There is a specific order that the bolts have to be tightened on both the intake and lower manifold. And, obviously, they need to be tightened to a specific torque spec. Neither of those facts were mentioned in this video, and failing to do either one of these can crack your manifolds.
This is great info, after working on them for 13years I take that for granted on reinstalling everything by "feel" but you are very correct! Thanks for the view!
What order do they need to be re-installed?
@@hybridhiker there’s no way for me to post the diagram without violating the copyright on the diagram. Alldata is where I got the info - and Alldata is your best friend when doing any type of Jeep (or other car) repair. My approach on auto work is always to find a high quality video (like this one!) from someone who has a great deal of experience, and combine that with the tech specs on Alldata.
@@JasonH-nu1wd hey brother, you say alldata, but exactly where can I find that info? I know it’s software and all that. But I’ve searched and searched and I can’t find anything. But I’m pretty sure that the bolt specs that were posted can’t be right. I am in the process again for the second time changing an oil cooler on my 2012 Jeep Wrangler. Someone who has no business under the hood before me destroyed threads, lost nuts and broke the lower intake bolt holes. ( 2 of them ) That I can’t do anything about except to buy another lower intake. There are two hex head oversized bolts in two of the oil cooler bolt holes and might be the whole problem why this is the third time the oil cooler is being replaced.
If you can just point me in the right direction to look up the all data info i would be forever in your debt!
Thank you
I can’t thank you enough for making this
Glad I could help! Thanks for the view!
Are you Owen Wilson? Great video man, help me fix it in 40 mins.
Glad I could help! Thanks for the view!
Pricey but worth it to get snap ons 1/4 in super swivel sockets. Made this job a walk In the park getting those 8 mm bolts
I have that exact snap on 8mm swivel! It really is worth it's higher price! Thanks for the view!
I forgot to put the foam back in lol
But will be installing new plugs ASAP so I will reinstall it then..
Not driving the car 2013 dodge challenger....3.6 L.....just got it last week....working on all the challenger issues..trunk , windows.. electric hydrolic power steering pump o ring's.....and trunk Lock..... almost done with everything...be driving in a week or so..
Hope everything goes well!
I thank you very much it’s a very helpful video .
This video should also have some good info. Thanks for the view!
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I just replaced the oil cooler on my Gladiator. the procedure is a little different. I also left off the silencer pad over the driver's side intake. I don't know what it silences, but there is no noticeable noise anyway. Why doesn't the passenger side have a silencer pad? Who knows, who cares. Also, I mounted the oil cooler with dry surfaces between the engine and the oil cooler o-rings to make a better seal.
Nice glad you got it taken care of, yeah I believe that foam pad just reduces noise from the engine but like you said it doesn't really do much lol. Thanks for the view!
You can replace the cooler which is a piece of garbage and then the left bank valve train (which happened to mine) then replacing the left head because of cracked valves and not the dealer tells me that I have coolant leaking THROUGH the cylinder WALLS and contaminating the oil. He told me these are common problems. He ordered a new engine and they are on 5-6 month back order. His remedy for the wait, "drive it until it blows up" There are recalls and class action law suits for all of these problems. Stelantis has known about these problems for many years!
Murphy's Law...Just did my spark plugs and about 500 miles later the Oil Filter Adapter (Oil Cooler) presented itself as a problem. Wish I knew just how common this leak was before doing the plugs. I would have done them both at the same time.
Of course! At least you will be even quicker taking it apart now! Thanks for the view!
I have the oil leak and wow there was oil everywhere on the transmission and underbody. I have 85,000 and was also doing the plugs. I did the 3 passenger side plugs and will do the 3 drivers side ONCE after I make sure I can find the oil cooler replacement part. Here in Texas over the last month (Dec and Jan)it has gone from 80 degrees, down to 22 degrees back up to 70 and down to mid 20's numerous times, also add a very hot engine bay. This crazy warm to very cold I'm convinced is the cause of it cracking or the seals are shot. Wont know till I tear it all down. At least I will get the plugs and oil cooler done once.
After getting everything back together, how does taking a pressure washer clean out all that leaked engine oil from the valleys? Seems like a half assed repair not to clean the oil out when you have already have the intake off.
Dorman now has an all aluminum replacement for the 2011-13.
Yes normally I will clean out the valley of the motor before reinstall. Or you can use degreaser and the power washer and it really does clean them out well as you can flush a lot of water under the intake up near the oil filter area. Thanks for the view!
Hey man thank you very much for this Video very well explained ,,, I like to torque everything so by chance do have the torque specs for the lower and upper manifold bolts also the 5 oil cooler bolts again thank you very much for this awesome video
The torque specs should be in the video description and this is another video that shows the process pretty well. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
@@TylerPotter thanks man
Really liked the video. Very obvious you have done this quite a few times. I was wondering why you didn't torque the intakes bolts down. I know that it doesn't take a lot of torque, but you basically seemed to snug it down by feel. Do you recommend adhering strictly to the torque specs especially since this is the first time pulling these manifolds?
Yes after doing so many of these you get the feel of them, but using the torque spec is always best, thanks for the view!
What are the reasons you use the impact and the ratchet? I’m looking to add to my Milwaukee collection now that I need to do this on my jeep but don’t see the difference in the tools really for this job and why you use both?
Thanks for a great vid
One or the other could defiantly do the whole job, I guess I just have both available with sockets already on them but you are totally correct, one would do just fine. Thanks for the view!
Great job! I felt like I was listening to Owen Wilson!😄
Glad you liked it! lol Thanks for the view!
HELP! How the hell did you get those red fuel rail clips off? Having a heck of a time!!!!’
Hi Tyler thanks for putting this together. I think I may need to do this and have two questions.
1. Online catalogs suggest the correct oil cooler depends on engine plane date code but I can’t that info. I have a 2016 grand Cherokee 3.6 Laredo AWD. Do you know the correct part number?
2. You mention filling the coolant at the end but didn’t talk about draining it in the beginning. Is that necessary if you clamp the hose like you did?
Thanks, I unfortunately don't know the part number off hand. You could call a dealership with you VIN number and they should be able to confirm the correct part number for your application.
Second even with the hose clamped you will still lose a little coolant into the valley of the engine. Draining it would help that issue or like I did in this other video I used a fluid extraction tool to clean out the valley before reinstalling. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html
Is this video in real time like about 15min to get cooler out?
You say that 99% of the time the leaks seem to be coming from the o-ring seals failing. When replacing the cooler, do you think some sort of gasket sealer on the o-rings would help prevent them from failing again?
A little sealer wouldn't hurt anything, we normally at the shop are putting them on dry though. Thanks for the view!
To your knowledge has this part ever been recalled? Going to be a hassle changing the part every so miles. Hopefully they make a better replacement part one day that last much longer.
No the oil cooler has never been recalled. There is a aftermarket Dorman brand metal oil cooler housing that would be a cool upgrade. Thanks for the view!
Awesome job and thank you for this videoing help me a lot to tackle this job
Awesome great to hear! Thanks for the view!
factory recomended preliminary tasks 1/ depressurize fuel system(pull fuse for fuel pump, start eng let die) 2/drain engine coolant all the way 3/recomended/if nessasary partially drain eng oil from crankcase. id say by half at least. welcome godbless
Any ideas on how to clean out the leak once pulling out the cooler? I don’t want to pressure wash it in my garage.. it’s nasty 😢
Yes, I use a fluid extractor pump to clean out the valley of the motor. You can find a cheap one on ebay or amazon
Should I reuse my sensors from the old unit, considering they work fine? I’m upgrading to the aluminum version. While it comes with sensors, I’m not sure if I should use those and risk them not working and having to redo this process again
Yes we reuse the sensors as a lot of the Mopar coolers now don't come with sensors installed. Thanks for the view!
Will this also fix the coolant leak that I have coming from that same area of the coolant oil censor? My jk keeps overheating and coolant just pours out the engine.
It is a possibility we have seen some leaking coolant also. Thanks for the view!
Red tabs on fuel injector plugs will not budge on my 2015 jku... Only one moves properly. Any tips or suggestions for stuck tabs?
They stick SUPER bad some times, I just get a pick or a flat screw driver and pry them up, sometimes they do break, but even without the red lock tab they still connect fine.
@@TylerPotter Thanks. I started yesterday and was ready to put it back together today. The plugs have been the only hang up so far. Appreciate the vid, you're def the reason my intake is open right now lol... Just wish I could've knocked it out in 20 mins too lol
Phenomenal video man!
Thanks for the view!
Real easy. You make it look good. How many miles on that engine? 25k? Wait till its run 100k and then try to ease those plastic connectors off. Red plastic just breaks and wont move and THEN what? New connector. I’m sure no one ever put dialectic grease in any of these so it’s an SOB to deal with. Whole f’n engine is plastic and needs replacement.
Yeah those red lock tabs are the worst! This other video also talks about them in some more detail I believe. Thanks for the view!
ua-cam.com/video/E6klsFThvTY/v-deo.html