I just dropped 4 grand on a performance TH400 transmission. I don't want to destroy my investment, so I was looking for a tutorial to guide me through the process. Great video and you answered every question I had. I've bookmarked your video and will watch it a few more times before I do the final install. Great job and thanks.
Learning that the stator and turbine "float" inside the TQ was a light bulb moment for me. It makes more sense now. Thank you for that nugget of knowledge!
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I’ve been struggling with a Subaru for 3 days trying to get the converter in correctly. Watched a bunch of videos and you were the only one that wiggled it in. That is exactly what I needed to see and it worked out perfectly, thank you.
That was a the best video ive watched when I watch them im in a hurry dont want to hear about the guys family life or his dog, well maybe his dog would be ok but he got straight to the job well done without his life history. thanks
Thank you so much for your expert demonstration and explanation. I was really struggling installing my torque converter and it was binding with the flexplate on attempted install #1. This made my mistake very clear, thanks again.
Awesome video I'm a first time watcher I learned so much just watching this. Can you please recommend a full synthetic ATF for my Turbo 400. Once again thank you.
Right on! Appreciate you sharing that. Here's what I would use (ATF): amzn.to/3Kv47RR DISCLOSURE: 🕵 Links provided are affiliated links with the associated websites. While there is no extra cost to the purchaser, a small portion of the sale goes to support this UA-cam channel.
Very Good Information! I'VE seen many videos on this, you give the real world info and don't just rely on that, 3 click you're in, bit. I'm having same trouble you show at 6.53 minutes or so. I'm in but need one more alignment it just will not line up the inside pump tabs ! I'll continue watching, thanks, great video
Thanks for this video. I had this problem getting my torque converter in. I thought something was wrong with the converter, but it eventually dropped in. Before this, I thought it was in and it wasn't.
My Cadillac TH400 was making a clicking noise when running. I found out that the converter bolts were VERY SLIGHTLY too long. When I looked more closely, even though the bolts were tight, the head of the bolt was not tight against the flex plate. Instead of using shorter bolts, I decided to put washers on mine, which solved the problem. Those bolts were actually bottoming out in the torque converter, not allowing them tighten against the flex plate. That slight amount of daylight between the bolt head and flex plate caused it to have a fairly loud clicking noise. I thought I had a bad lifter or something wrong in the engine, but that's all it was.
Good catch!! I need to make a video on this topic. On later model transmissions, a TC bolt that's too long can actually cause transmission failure. Pretty wild, ay? Appreciate your comment (reminder).
I just lay a straight-edge across the bellhousing mating surface and measure to the converter before I pull it. Then I can easily check and know for certain after reinstalling.
Good morning I have a problem with my ford f150 2011 3.5 automatic transmission can you explain something about that it shifts perfectly but when I stop by a bump sometimes it gives a hard knock when I start to drive again
I assume since it wasn’t covered there is no way or need to prime the pump? Like spin the torque converter while installed to move fluid into pump? Till fluid comes out of the two line ports? Thank you
Priming the pump is done when assembling the pump. It was covered during the TH400 Build Series. TH400 Build Series - Pump + Front End-Play ua-cam.com/video/tfQiHPZlIQI/v-deo.html
At a minimum, add one (1) quart of ATF. However, the more you can add, the better...without making a mess during install (TC tipped on side). Thanks for stopping by, Jimmy.
In my Mazda Tribute 2,3 4x2, the automatic transmission is no longer functioning properly. When I shift to "D," the car behaves as if it is in "N." What could be the problem with the transmission?
So I got a question mine sounds like it’s rubbing in the back of the bell house I pull it out a tiny bit it stops making the noise is that normal thank you ahead of time
If I'm understating everything correctly......this is normal. When you install trans, and bolt up converter, converter will be drawn away from trans as the bolts are tightened. Resulting in no more rubbing. Definitely something to double-check during your install.
I have a 2005 chrysler 300 with the 4 speed auto trans. My torque convertor won't spin freely once fully set back into the trans. Any thoughts please?!?!
Two different things are coming to mind: 1). Per the video, the converter hub drives the pump. If for some reason the pump gears don't rotate freely (and it happens), as soon as the converter hub engages the inner pump gear, the converter will stop rotating freely. 2). When the converter is pushed all the way towards the rear of the trans (fully installed), is any part of the converter making contact with the inside of the bell housing? Probably can't see in there...but... During transmission install, the converter bolts will be installed through the flex-plate and into the converter. As those bolts are tightened, it will move the converter away from the trans, and towards the engine. If you pull the converter out 1/4", does this allow the converter to rotate freely?
@@SouthpawAutoworks yes, if I pull it out about a 1/4 inch it does rotate freely, but not when bolted to the flex-plate. It only does a half of a rotation. when it is just the installed convertor not bolted to the flex-plate. fully seated, it will do only a half of a rotation. you can feel that its not a bolt or clearance issue. It feels mechanical in nature like a gear?? torque convertor, flex-plate, trans are all the original parts?
Should be able to it rock up and down and side to side when fully seated? It doesn’t feel like the input shafts are moving but the rather the torque converter is rocking on the splines. I spun the converter when I thought it was seated, and it moved the two lugs in relativity to the converter but it won’t go in farther. Also, it’s in far enough where I can’t get my fingers in behind’s it but I have sausage fingers so I’m unsure.
Hello there, i really need your help please. My vw touareg torque converter seal keeps getting eaten on one side thus causing leakage. What could be the problem?? Have do far replaced 3 seals, thanks. Awaiting your generous reply
How many seals are there that should be changed when the transmission is out. I know the engine rear seal is one, is there a seal between TC and transmission shaft? Oh and the transmission rear seal too.
Rear main (especially if it's a one-piece design). T-Case: May have a gasket between adapter housing and T-case. Also, T-Case may have an input shaft seal.
Question - When the TC is supposedly all the way fully seated into the transmission is it supposed to be able to rotate all the way? I have an issue where it seems to only rotate about a 1/4 turn in each direction. So I tried bolting it up to the flexplate but it will not rotate so i cant get all the bolts in.
Great video and very informative. I installed a TH400 in a ‘71 vette. Upon startup a distinct metal on metal chirp was heard. Trans is rebuilt, new converter, entire drive train is new, chirp is loud and can be heard clearly over the motor which ran off and on for a total of 5 Min while troubleshooting. Chirp increases along with rpm. Inspection shows the torque converter and flex plat has a wobble to it not sure on a measurement. Trans is coming out but what should i be looking for? I set the TC to flexplate gap at 3/16 using an allen wrench to achieve that gap i did use a single flat washer on each TC bolt. Should i take it back to the builder? Is there a way to inspect the pump without disassembly? I’m positive i check converter installation and the builder placed a bracket same as your wrench to hold it in place. It was also attached to the motor outside the car and wasn’t tilted forward. Whole thing has me doubting myself.
When you overfilled the oil on your transmission. Couple months later it’s starting acting weird the shifting to second gear is delayed. The question is could torque converter seal is the problem
I'm having trouble understanding what was written. But.... I will say that fluid level is important. Too low, and pump will start sucking air, which results in a drop in line pressure (oil pressure that's used to apply clutch packs/bands. Too high, and rotating trans parts will churn fluid, which can aerate the fluid (bunch of air bubbles). This also results in the pump sucking in air...once again, negatively affecting clutches/band.
@SouthpawAutoworks as a former Autoshop/Trade school teacher here in Australia, I really do enjoy following passionate and well put together video content, and I can assure you I have found this series on the TH 400 fantastic
An autoshop/trade school teacher....right on! Andy used to teach at trade schools, too. There was mention of it (with some photos) in a past TH400 video. Thank you, so much, for taking the time to share some positive feedback. You are appreciated.
I recently installed a TH400 in a ‘71 corvette. At install I measured the TC to flexplate clearance and set it to 3/16 using an Allen wrench to get it to 1/8 required space/washer thickness I didn’t have. I needed to use a single washer to take up some of that clearance space. Upon fire up there is a distinctive metal to metal rub not constant but seems like for every rotation of the engine. It’s a chirp and increases with RPM. I also see a wobble in the TC and FP while running. Car only ran for maybe 5 min in an attempt to diagnose the issue. Trans was rebuilt, new TC ,new FP and engine also rebuilt with zero miles. I’m positive I checked converter installation and the trans shop installed a bracket similar to your wrench when I picked it up. Assembly was done out of the car. Didn’t tilt it forward I don’t think during install as motor was on hoist. Rotated the converter to align holes to flex plate once bolted to motor and torqued. Whole thing has me rattled so I’m doubting myself. It’s coming back out but what should I be looking for? Should I take it back to builder? Is it possible to bottom out the converter? Is 3/16 TC to FP gap translate to the max amount the converter can slide out towards the FP. Love your videos and appreciate any expertise.
It has me thinking pump. When time permits, I'll make a video on this. For the meantime, I think you'll find this video helpful. ua-cam.com/video/ZkcUVLovcps/v-deo.html Definitely a couple things that could be added to this video, to make the install even easier/repeatable. Wishing you the best on your install.
I need some converter info,do you know of anyone who I can talk to that won’t expect me to spend $1000 on a converter for that info.i bought one already from a big company and got screwed big time and I can’t keep doing this
![Torque Converter Install and Setback Clearance - THE SKID FACTORY - [Quick Tech]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gYdsbVCDgUs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Torque Converter Install and Setback Clearance - THE SKID FACTORY - [Quick Tech]](/img/tr.png)
Thank you for this video. I am a retired transmission shop owner...and I have forgotten more stuff than I ever knew!!!
I just dropped 4 grand on a performance TH400 transmission. I don't want to destroy my investment, so I was looking for a tutorial to guide me through the process. Great video and you answered every question I had. I've bookmarked your video and will watch it a few more times before I do the final install. Great job and thanks.
That stupid grin when you said “the greatest nation in the world, the imagiNATION” is why I have subscribed. 😂😂😂
I watched several videos of the correct way to install it, and this was the best. Thanks
Great to hear!
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Learning that the stator and turbine "float" inside the TQ was a light bulb moment for me. It makes more sense now. Thank you for that nugget of knowledge!
Right on!
You bet.
Appreciate your comment.
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I’ve been struggling with a Subaru for 3 days trying to get the converter in correctly. Watched a bunch of videos and you were the only one that wiggled it in. That is exactly what I needed to see and it worked out perfectly, thank you.
Right on! Glad it was helpful.
Appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line.
WOW I just needed to know how to install a converter, I learned so much more! Thank you
Appreciate your comment.
That was a the best video ive watched when I watch them im in a hurry dont want to hear about the guys family life or his dog, well maybe his dog would be ok but he got straight to the job well done without his life history. thanks
Thanks for taking your time and making these videos..
You bet! Happy to share!
Appreciate your interest in this topic.
Thanks for dropping me a line, elbobloco1.
Definitely using what I learned here and applying it to my th350
Right on.
You an angel sent by God! You explained the physics of this topic beautifully. Really impressive! 👌Mind blasting!
Glad you liked it!
Outstanding Robert, thanks for the prompt tips
Thank you so much for your expert demonstration and explanation. I was really struggling installing my torque converter and it was binding with the flexplate on attempted install #1. This made my mistake very clear, thanks again.
Glad you were able to catch your issue before it did any damage to the trans.
Appreciate your feedback. Thank you.
Awesome video I'm a first time watcher I learned so much just watching this. Can you please recommend a full synthetic ATF for my Turbo 400. Once again thank you.
Right on! Appreciate you sharing that.
Here's what I would use (ATF): amzn.to/3Kv47RR
DISCLOSURE: 🕵
Links provided are affiliated links with the associated websites. While there is no extra cost to the purchaser, a small portion of the sale goes to support this UA-cam channel.
Very Good Information! I'VE seen many videos on this, you give the real world info and don't just rely on that, 3 click you're in, bit. I'm having same trouble you show at 6.53 minutes or so. I'm in but need one more alignment it just will not line up the inside pump tabs ! I'll continue watching, thanks, great video
Glad you got some value from the video.
Appreciate your comments.
Many thanks, got a ZF4 Hp22 to get in after someones been trying to wreck the converter fit. 👍
You bet!
Amazing video series! Maybe you guys could do a series on the TH425? Similar, but different right.
Very good lecture, you are my hero!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for this video. I had this problem getting my torque converter in. I thought something was wrong with the converter, but it eventually dropped in. Before this, I thought it was in and it wasn't.
You're welcome.
Glad you got to the bottom of it.
My Cadillac TH400 was making a clicking noise when running. I found out that the converter bolts were VERY SLIGHTLY too long. When I looked more closely, even though the bolts were tight, the head of the bolt was not tight against the flex plate. Instead of using shorter bolts, I decided to put washers on mine, which solved the problem. Those bolts were actually bottoming out in the torque converter, not allowing them tighten against the flex plate. That slight amount of daylight between the bolt head and flex plate caused it to have a fairly loud clicking noise. I thought I had a bad lifter or something wrong in the engine, but that's all it was.
Good catch!!
I need to make a video on this topic.
On later model transmissions, a TC bolt that's too long can actually cause transmission failure. Pretty wild, ay?
Appreciate your comment (reminder).
I just lay a straight-edge across the bellhousing mating surface and measure to the converter before I pull it. Then I can easily check and know for certain after reinstalling.
Very useful information for a DIYER. You guys should sell shirts to help with the channel!
Been meaning to set that up... Thank you for the support!
This definitely saved me hours of stress
Glad to hear it.
Good morning I have a problem with my ford f150 2011 3.5 automatic transmission can you explain something about that it shifts perfectly but when I stop by a bump sometimes it gives a hard knock when I start to drive again
I assume since it wasn’t covered there is no way or need to prime the pump? Like spin the torque converter while installed to move fluid into pump? Till fluid comes out of the two line ports? Thank you
Priming the pump is done when assembling the pump. It was covered during the TH400 Build Series.
TH400 Build Series - Pump + Front End-Play
ua-cam.com/video/tfQiHPZlIQI/v-deo.html
Great instructional video, thankyou
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Very good things to know. THANKS ALOT. I'm right in the middle of it.
About how much trans fluid should I put in the converter ? Thanks for the tips.
At a minimum, add one (1) quart of ATF. However, the more you can add, the better...without making a mess during install (TC tipped on side).
Thanks for stopping by, Jimmy.
Great Instruction !Thankyou !
You bet. The positive feedback is appreciated.
Thank you
You bet!
In my Mazda Tribute 2,3 4x2, the automatic transmission is no longer functioning properly. When I shift to "D," the car behaves as if it is in "N." What could be the problem with the transmission?
Thanks for the pro tip!
You bet!
What’s the best way to shim the torque converter when the gap is too big, mine has 1/2 inch gap between the flex plate and torque.
So I got a question mine sounds like it’s rubbing in the back of the bell house I pull it out a tiny bit it stops making the noise is that normal thank you ahead of time
If I'm understating everything correctly......this is normal.
When you install trans, and bolt up converter, converter will be drawn away from trans as the bolts are tightened. Resulting in no more rubbing.
Definitely something to double-check during your install.
I have a 2005 chrysler 300 with the 4 speed auto trans. My torque convertor won't spin freely once fully set back into the trans. Any thoughts please?!?!
Two different things are coming to mind:
1).
Per the video, the converter hub drives the pump.
If for some reason the pump gears don't rotate freely (and it happens), as soon as the converter hub engages the inner pump gear, the converter will stop rotating freely.
2).
When the converter is pushed all the way towards the rear of the trans (fully installed), is any part of the converter making contact with the inside of the bell housing? Probably can't see in there...but...
During transmission install, the converter bolts will be installed through the flex-plate and into the converter. As those bolts are tightened, it will move the converter away from the trans, and towards the engine.
If you pull the converter out 1/4", does this allow the converter to rotate freely?
@@SouthpawAutoworks yes, if I pull it out about a 1/4 inch it does rotate freely, but not when bolted to the flex-plate. It only does a half of a rotation. when it is just the installed convertor not bolted to the flex-plate. fully seated, it will do only a half of a rotation. you can feel that its not a bolt or clearance issue. It feels mechanical in nature like a gear?? torque convertor, flex-plate, trans are all the original parts?
Nicely made and very helpful, thanks!
Right on. Glad to hear that.
Should be able to it rock up and down and side to side when fully seated? It doesn’t feel like the input shafts are moving but the rather the torque converter is rocking on the splines. I spun the converter when I thought it was seated, and it moved the two lugs in relativity to the converter but it won’t go in farther. Also, it’s in far enough where I can’t get my fingers in behind’s it but I have sausage fingers so I’m unsure.
It'll still have a little wiggle to it, even after it's fully seated.
If in doubt about, it best to verify with the straight-edge method.
Hello there, i really need your help please. My vw touareg torque converter seal keeps getting eaten on one side thus causing leakage. What could be the problem?? Have do far replaced 3 seals, thanks. Awaiting your generous reply
How many seals are there that should be changed when the transmission is out. I know the engine rear seal is one, is there a seal between TC and transmission shaft? Oh and the transmission rear seal too.
Rear main (especially if it's a one-piece design).
T-Case: May have a gasket between adapter housing and T-case. Also, T-Case may have an input shaft seal.
great details and info - thanks
We changed a transmission but when you change the gear it makes a thud noise why is that ?
Question - When the TC is supposedly all the way fully seated into the transmission is it supposed to be able to rotate all the way? I have an issue where it seems to only rotate about a 1/4 turn in each direction. So I tried bolting it up to the flexplate but it will not rotate so i cant get all the bolts in.
Great video and very informative. I installed a TH400 in a ‘71 vette. Upon startup a distinct metal on metal chirp was heard. Trans is rebuilt, new converter, entire drive train is new, chirp is loud and can be heard clearly over the motor which ran off and on for a total of 5 Min while troubleshooting. Chirp increases along with rpm. Inspection shows the torque converter and flex plat has a wobble to it not sure on a measurement. Trans is coming out but what should i be looking for? I set the TC to flexplate gap at 3/16 using an allen wrench to achieve that gap i did use a single flat washer on each TC bolt. Should i take it back to the builder? Is there a way to inspect the pump without disassembly? I’m positive i check converter installation and the builder placed a bracket same as your wrench to hold it in place. It was also attached to the motor outside the car and wasn’t tilted forward. Whole thing has me doubting myself.
Sounds like it's related to flex plate.
What did you find?
When you overfilled the oil on your transmission. Couple months later it’s starting acting weird the shifting to second gear is delayed. The question is could torque converter seal is the problem
I'm having trouble understanding what was written. But....
I will say that fluid level is important.
Too low, and pump will start sucking air, which results in a drop in line pressure (oil pressure that's used to apply clutch packs/bands.
Too high, and rotating trans parts will churn fluid, which can aerate the fluid (bunch of air bubbles). This also results in the pump sucking in air...once again, negatively affecting clutches/band.
Can you just place the converter empty and when you start the engine the transmission will begin filling it, and you top up the transmission again? ?
It can be filled that way...but, it's not recommended.
Great series!
Thank you.
Great video lesson well done
Thanks, Jimmy.
@SouthpawAutoworks as a former Autoshop/Trade school teacher here in Australia, I really do enjoy following passionate and well put together video content, and I can assure you I have found this series on the TH 400 fantastic
An autoshop/trade school teacher....right on!
Andy used to teach at trade schools, too. There was mention of it (with some photos) in a past TH400 video.
Thank you, so much, for taking the time to share some positive feedback. You are appreciated.
I recently installed a TH400 in a ‘71 corvette. At install I measured the TC to flexplate clearance and set it to 3/16 using an Allen wrench to get it to 1/8 required space/washer thickness I didn’t have. I needed to use a single washer to take up some of that clearance space. Upon fire up there is a distinctive metal to metal rub not constant but seems like for every rotation of the engine. It’s a chirp and increases with RPM. I also see a wobble in the TC and FP while running. Car only ran for maybe 5 min in an attempt to diagnose the issue. Trans was rebuilt, new TC ,new FP and engine also rebuilt with zero miles. I’m positive I checked converter installation and the trans shop installed a bracket similar to your wrench when I picked it up. Assembly was done out of the car. Didn’t tilt it forward I don’t think during install as motor was on hoist. Rotated the converter to align holes to flex plate once bolted to motor and torqued. Whole thing has me rattled so I’m doubting myself. It’s coming back out but what should I be looking for? Should I take it back to builder? Is it possible to bottom out the converter? Is 3/16 TC to FP gap translate to the max amount the converter can slide out towards the FP. Love your videos and appreciate any expertise.
I have a 2008 Daihatsu Terios automatic car, when it starts and it is cold, it sits for 20 minutes, then it goes on D
Good Video!
Great video!!! Thanks for this!!!
Mine won't seat on a904 transmission in think it output shaft.
It has me thinking pump. When time permits, I'll make a video on this.
For the meantime, I think you'll find this video helpful.
ua-cam.com/video/ZkcUVLovcps/v-deo.html
Definitely a couple things that could be added to this video, to make the install even easier/repeatable.
Wishing you the best on your install.
@@SouthpawAutoworks thanks.
You bet.
Great
Thanks.
I need some converter info,do you know of anyone who I can talk to that won’t expect me to spend $1000 on a converter for that info.i bought one already from a big company and got screwed big time and I can’t keep doing this
Appreciate you 🙏
My men great video Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks!
good video,thanks bro!!!
You bet!
Glad you liked it.
Thanks bro!
You bet!
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Appreciate it.
Good sir
🤙🤙🤙💯💯💯🔥🔥🔥 thank you for the brain food.
Ok
👍👍👍👍🌿💪💪😘🌷
Thanks.
This guy looks like he could use a hand in the shop!
No doubt!
This guy does more with one hand than I can do with 2 :/
BINGO ! FINGERS WON'T FIT BEHIND Converter !
You writing a book. Get to the point
I thought it was great info I needed.
Thank you