This guy's awesome! So informative and keeps it trucking the whole time! Doesn't sit there wasting your time looking for tools or cracking stupid jokes, gets it done in a timely matter yet doesn't leave anything out. I wish they were all like this!
That wad one of the most precise explanations, and there wasnt any extra junk like a lot of videos from instructors who love the sound of their own voice! Awesome job, mister!
Right to the point. Man you did you a great job at explaining this. I’ve seen hundreds of videos covering different vehicles, atvs to power wheels and so on. You did a amazing job at talking about the subject at hand without drifting away to some personal story. Never waisted time about something that does not pertain to the task at hand. Good job.
I actually looked at this video because when I took my 2014 Chrysler 300 3.6 engine out to replace it, I threw all the bolts in one pile and now that I'm putting it back together I wasn't sure which bolts went to the torque converter. Mine has a different flywheel being RWD, but the bolts that I suspected to be the ones are indeed the ones I see you using here. I have the correct number of those non-flanged black 10.9 bolts, but thought surely they should have been flanged. This video cleared that up! Thanks
Great...I find this video AFTER doing a torque converter to transmission installation the hard way. Thanks for having this video here for others to learn from there MCM!
Hate that it happened like than but now you know where to go to next time before you start. Thanks for ending up at this channel and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe.
Mopar was always different with their flex plates, from the 60's (maybe the 50's) on they used an offset bolt pattern so it was wise to mark one bolt hole on the plate and converter with some paint. If using a new plate or converter you wanted to mark it before putting it all together. And many of them had the starter ring gear on the converter instead of the plate.
Excellent! Especially the “Special Hole” part. I knew it forced the converter to be installed within tolerance but never thought to go with “THAT” hole first to save time. Makes total sense!
Thank you iam a beginner on this stuff or brand of car I've always just worked on my 59 Ford f 150 with 302 and c-4 trany with kick down so thank you very much
Not a Mopar guy, (At least for a few years) But I'll have to see if GM does this. If not its a shame they, because they force us to do as you said and rotate, rotate, rotate! Good tip, well explained, simple to understand how it will same time and keep your brain temperature from boiling over cause you had to rotate the flex plate 20 times!
Thank you sir I was having issue lining up one bolt I had two of them but it was slightly off as you mentioned im going to get back under and loosen the initial bolt I started with and try and tighten one of the others hopefully I get lucky and they all lime up or I'ma be spinning it for days .
lol, I just did this on a 545RFE. I don't recall a special hole but I did rotate it more than once to pre thread the bolts. Then tightened bell housing, then final torque. The MOPAR manual says tighten the TC flex plate bolts last step after bolting in the xfr case and rear support member. I didn't wanna wait until it's all the way up high to do this so I did it after torqueing the bell housing while it was still lifted low. I hope this is ok lol. Comments? I can't imagine the shaft or anything would shift enough to cause a problem here when you install the xfr case
thanks for that....it was a big headache, time saver...Getting ready to drop my 351w in my mustang and checking all my boxes so to speak..this be on that's definitely checked!
Cool, I will never do this but I like to watch your videos, Hehehehe I am a older guy. I used to be a driveway mechanic. Know I pay people to help. Like your videos
Never knew that but on my 79 F150 302 ci (C4), the four holes only align up one way. Plus the torque converter when installed has studs that protrude through the flex plate to be attached by 4 prevailing (flanged head) torque nuts. I learned through trial and error the Ford stamp goes up. This aligns every hole to install the 6 bolts to attach plate to the crankshaft.
Great tip, I've installed at least 6 of these pentastar engines/trans and I never noticed the one hole being different. However, I did have one engine where I had problems getting the last bolt in the torque converter and it wouldn't go until I loosened all of the rest. Now I know why. Great tip thanks again
Appreciate the feedback. Yeah I had the same issues until that one day many many years ago when someone showed me and then I couldn’t believe it was staring me in the face the entire time 🤔😂
In my 2000 Chrysler town and country. My van wouldn't start took starter off found a bolt blocking my starter from starting. Well didn't know where the bolt came from so I put my starter back on. Van started right up running a little rough. Long story short the bolts for the flex plate all came out and left me stranded on the side of the road.
See a bolt hole...insert a bolt...if it was the “odd hole” torque it all the way to spec...if it’s not...just finger tight...on to the next bolt Potentially saves you a full rotation on an LS. If you have help, it’s no big deal, but by yourself, it saves a lot of time.
still a fly wheel and flex plate same thing when its not attached to the torque converter like the one you got in your hand it can be used for a manual also if your torque converter has the fly wheel made on to it then its just a torque converter flywheel
yes good but do all flexplates have this bolt hole that's different? I have a 2001 dodge ram van 5.2L and I may have to change the flexplate and the torque converter some time, Ihope not too soon!!! but I am gathering information at the moment. Thank you for the video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well i'm now on my way to removing the 8 or so dam bolts my flex plate has because the last one is not threading in lol. I knew something had to be off and was concerned it was another thing. So , I'm hoping going back over these holes and seeing an indicator or something might give me the fix it needs to allow that last bolt to grab. Im already concerned because i've never messed with this before, but how hard can it be . lol ty sir
Why don't they make the center hole fit so it aligns the flex plate in the center to start with? nice tip doing a mini cooper now and has mort than 4 bolts
Hi David, I'm reinstalling my 3.6 back in my 2014 jku. My question is how do you line up the hole once the trans and engine are mated back up. I'm using the starter hole to install the bolts and I'm not having a lot of luck finding the threads.
Enjoyed the video and thanks for sharing the information. I think you might be teasing us with that PT Cruiser in the background. :-) I look forward to when you're able to continue the series on that one. It's been one of my favorites.
I do need to get back on it....just have soon much going on and other videos I need to get out in the mean time. Hopefully soon. Thanks for the kind words and for watching. Merry Christmas
Most likely for tolerance between the locations of the threaded portions of the torque converter and the holes on the flexplate. They arent an exact match so it takes up the slack so to speak.
I know this is a old comment but sometimes this actually works to your benefit,a lot of people will install a flexplate while a converter is not properly seated on the pump in the tranny and destroying the pump in the process while torquing down the converter to the engine. Since the tolerances are loose (basically the flexplate holes are bigger than the screw) once your start finger tightening your bolts you can use that looseness to check and see if the converter is lose (properly seated) by rocking the screw back and forth, if it doesn't rock back and forth and it seems tight your converter is not seated properly and its telling you "dont proceed or you'll be sorry" This is specially helpful in older Ford cars where the converter has studs and not screws, once you marry the engine to the tranny, rock those studs a bit back and forth, no rock? dont proceed, tear it dont and find out where your bind is.
I had a starter shear the teeth off ring gear/flex plate. Replaced flex plate and starter all good. Should say it was a diesel heavy cranking to turn over. Still asked alot of people and not seen ring gear teeth broke off. Nice video Did you do anything to beef up the TE trans in video. Or add a turbo to the 3.6????
hello my friend you are a wonderful person i have a problem in 62te when i put D or R the engine stops working and in the obd scan it does not show any problem can you help me
I am working on newer version of pentstars engine and there is no access hole to it, I just installed new transmission in durango 4x4 and yet I cant get torque conventer to turn with hand and it is only accessible through starter hole
Can u give me your advice? We bolts was loose and making a rattling sound . We tighten them up and now it’s 3 months later and they starting to rattle again? Getting loose again I guess? What would cause them to get loose again? Please help
What about Toyota Corolla. It has 6 bolts with one special bolt but all the six wholes look same. Still couldn’t figure out why the flex plate is being held tight by the bolts. Any advice on this?
We have a leak at the bellhousing it drips transmission fluid while running and then dumps it after shut off. It's a totally refurbished transmission we just got it. We have taken it out 3 times to try and figure out where its leaking from. We replaced the torque converter seal and still no luck. And the torque converter is seated properly into the transmision. So lost. Domt know if the flex plate could be the cause? Not sure
Here is what I have found. I am pasting the info here. If hard to read then email me and I will send it to you that way as well. STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENHANCED SEATBELT REMINDER PROGRAMMING The seatbelt indicator also includes a programmable enhanced seatbelt reminder or BELTMINDER feature that is enabled when the vehicle is shipped from the factory. This BELTMINDER feature provides extended and modified visual seatbelt indicator and audible chime warning responses to an unbuckled driver side front seat belt. The BELTMINDER feature may be disabled or enabled by the customer using the programming sequence that follows, or by the dealer using a diagnostic scan tool. CUSTOMER PROGRAMMING SEQUENCE NOTE: The following sequence of events must occur within 60 seconds of the ignition switch being placed in the ON position in order for the programming to be completed successfully. With all doors closed and the ignition switch in any position except ON or START, buckle the driver side front seat belt.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait for the seatbelt indicator reminder function to conclude (about six seconds).
Unbuckle and buckle the driver side front seat belt three or more times, ending with the belt buckled.
Turn the ignition switch to any position except ON or START to toggle the BELTMINDER feature from its current setting (from active to inactive, or from inactive to active). A single chime tone will provide an audible confirmation that the programming sequence has been successfully completed.
it doesnt matter if the hole is keyed or not, catch all first then tighten, what your doing makes no sense, whats the rush ! Take your time and do it right and u wont have to do it again as a come back!
When your flat rate.....spinning the engine over two times is time wasted especially when they have made it simple for you already.....why not use the special hole....thats why its there. Not sure how that would have any bearings on becoming a come back but none the less....to each their own. Thanks for the comment and for watching Dwayne.
Actually, it does matter. It's just math. The design comprehends feature variation of the plate and torque converter. GD&T is applied to the dimensions so that any plate will mate to any converter, and the 2 way locator (the slot) is fastened first. The other 3 are clearance holes, and mathematically will always be aligned (as long as both parts are built within the tolerance window, which the Quality folks police).
couldn't watch it all. just wanted to know if and what type of locktite you used. Didn't need an entire " Theory of the internal combustion engine" I'm sure by your comments that some people appreciate the detailed engine theory and those are happy with your video. thanks.
Excellent video, thank you David. However I'm working on the same exact commination, I just replaced the engine, bolting all together and now the engine spins very stiff then stops at one point. I can't tell what's going on. Any ideas??
I just got a question so should you always bolt the engine to the transmission first or tighten up the torque converter first to the flywheel which way should be done first
This guy's awesome! So informative and keeps it trucking the whole time! Doesn't sit there wasting your time looking for tools or cracking stupid jokes, gets it done in a timely matter yet doesn't leave anything out. I wish they were all like this!
Many thanks! Always great to hear feedback like this.
It actually amazes me that this whole thing is only held together with 4 very short bolts! Thanks for this video, you just saved me a lot of time!
Usually, I'm not working on Chrysler stuff, but the lesson I learned today, is very valuable! A BIG 'Thank you"!!
That wad one of the most precise explanations, and there wasnt any extra junk like a lot of videos from instructors who love the sound of their own voice! Awesome job, mister!
Right to the point. Man you did you a great job at explaining this. I’ve seen hundreds of videos covering different vehicles, atvs to power wheels and so on. You did a amazing job at talking about the subject at hand without drifting away to some personal story. Never waisted time about something that does not pertain to the task at hand. Good job.
I actually looked at this video because when I took my 2014 Chrysler 300 3.6 engine out to replace it, I threw all the bolts in one pile and now that I'm putting it back together I wasn't sure which bolts went to the torque converter. Mine has a different flywheel being RWD, but the bolts that I suspected to be the ones are indeed the ones I see you using here. I have the correct number of those non-flanged black 10.9 bolts, but thought surely they should have been flanged. This video cleared that up! Thanks
I no longer have any Chrysler products, but I still enjoy watching your videos.
....and I greatly appreciate that! Thanks John for always following along. Merry Christmas
60 years old and still learning new stuff 👍
We never stop 😂. Thanks for watching and for your time. Make sure to subscribe
Great tip! As a DIYer I didn't know this, and is always a good thing to learn new tips and tricks to get things done the right way. Thanks!!
Appreciate you watching and never stop learning everything you can. Never know when you might need it
yep .. i am a DIYer myself .. wanting to go beyond manual transmission things ..
So @@MotorCityMechanic
@@JoshRay-hc2ci so what? 😂
Great...I find this video AFTER doing a torque converter to transmission installation the hard way.
Thanks for having this video here for others to learn from there MCM!
Hate that it happened like than but now you know where to go to next time before you start. Thanks for ending up at this channel and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe.
Helpful tip, I'm about to drop my 4.0 back in my 01 wj, tomorrow. Just set the torque converter in the trans tomorrow I'll be rock n Rollin!
Thanks for the tip I am installing my torque converter today.
Mopar was always different with their flex plates, from the 60's (maybe the 50's) on they used an offset bolt pattern so it was wise to mark one bolt hole on the plate and converter with some paint. If using a new plate or converter you wanted to mark it before putting it all together. And many of them had the starter ring gear on the converter instead of the plate.
Damn your old🤣
Thanks a lot for this video.. As a diyer, this video help me a valued guidance in doing my job..
Thanks a lot... from Malaysia..
Glad that I could help and thanks for reaching out. Make sure to subscribe
Thanks from Malaysia as well.. hehe.. I'm about to change the CVT belt in my car..
Thank you ! this video was so very helpful on my wife’s 2020 jeep .
You did a fantastic job explaining .
Thanks
Excellent! Especially the “Special Hole” part. I knew it forced the converter to be installed within tolerance but never thought to go with “THAT” hole first to save time. Makes total sense!
Great vid. Thanks. I would though like to know about setting the torque converter into the bell housing
Very intuitive teaching on minute difference can do a big job! excellent doctor!
Thank you iam a beginner on this stuff or brand of car I've always just worked on my 59 Ford f 150 with 302 and c-4 trany with kick down so thank you very much
Not a Mopar guy, (At least for a few years) But I'll have to see if GM does this. If not its a shame they, because they force us to do as you said and rotate, rotate, rotate! Good tip, well explained, simple to understand how it will same time and keep your brain temperature from boiling over cause you had to rotate the flex plate 20 times!
That's good advice makes it easier lining up the write one the first time thx
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching and for the comment
Some have a different bolt that does the same thing. It has a step on it that takes up the play in the hole alignment.
Thank you sir I was having issue lining up one bolt I had two of them but it was slightly off as you mentioned im going to get back under and loosen the initial bolt I started with and try and tighten one of the others hopefully I get lucky and they all lime up or I'ma be spinning it for days .
Thank you for showing me how to align the torque converter bolts. You can't find this direction anywhere else on UA-cam
Always happy that I can help. Thanks for the comment and make sure to subscribe
lol, I just did this on a 545RFE. I don't recall a special hole but I did rotate it more than once to pre thread the bolts. Then tightened bell housing, then final torque. The MOPAR manual says tighten the TC flex plate bolts last step after bolting in the xfr case and rear support member. I didn't wanna wait until it's all the way up high to do this so I did it after torqueing the bell housing while it was still lifted low. I hope this is ok lol. Comments? I can't imagine the shaft or anything would shift enough to cause a problem here when you install the xfr case
thanks for that....it was a big headache, time saver...Getting ready to drop my 351w in my mustang and checking all my boxes so to speak..this be on that's definitely checked!
Your welcome and thanks for watching. Not sure if Ford does it this way.....Chrysler for sure. Make sure to subscribe.
Might be I'm paranoid, but I always go around twice. Why not? Your right there, and its only a couple minutes
Cool, I will never do this but I like to watch your videos, Hehehehe I am a older guy. I used to be a driveway mechanic. Know I pay people to help. Like your videos
Glad to have you following channel either way!
Great video. Please share more little tricks like this… hi from Ireland
Thanks Mr mecanico I already have that issue with my truck thanks for explaining 👍
Never knew that but on my 79 F150 302 ci (C4), the four holes only align up one way. Plus the torque converter when installed has studs that protrude through the flex plate to be attached by 4 prevailing (flanged head) torque nuts. I learned through trial and error the Ford stamp goes up. This aligns every hole to install the 6 bolts to attach plate to the crankshaft.
Thank you David, this was great information!!
Your welcome Paul! Thanks for checking the channel out
Very good video. Would you mind to tell me what is the part number for the port hole cover?
Great video. I have a question, what could be grinding on the teeth of the flex plate? Starter? My 2008 gmc envoy is making me scratch my head.
Great tip, I've installed at least 6 of these pentastar engines/trans and I never noticed the one hole being different. However, I did have one engine where I had problems getting the last bolt in the torque converter and it wouldn't go until I loosened all of the rest. Now I know why.
Great tip thanks again
Appreciate the feedback. Yeah I had the same issues until that one day many many years ago when someone showed me and then I couldn’t believe it was staring me in the face the entire time 🤔😂
@@MotorCityMechanic ain't that the way of it?
Can't see the forest for the trees sometimes😎
Trace 23 Very true!
In my 2000 Chrysler town and country. My van wouldn't start took starter off found a bolt blocking my starter from starting. Well didn't know where the bolt came from so I put my starter back on. Van started right up running a little rough. Long story short the bolts for the flex plate all came out and left me stranded on the side of the road.
Joshua McCord great find, sorry it happened. Thanks for finding this video and make sure to subscribe
Nice description, clear and short ones
This was great information..something that seems to be silly is in fact very important..
It is something small for sure that can save some time. Thanks for watching and for the comment Greg.
See a bolt hole...insert a bolt...if it was the “odd hole” torque it all the way to spec...if it’s not...just finger tight...on to the next bolt
Potentially saves you a full rotation on an LS. If you have help, it’s no big deal, but by yourself, it saves a lot of time.
Thankyou, Sir :) Long time I wondered - How does Bell-housing - Flex plate - TC - All be fitted together? Now I see :)
Thanks Leslie for watching and for commenting. Make sure to subscribe.
still a fly wheel and flex plate same thing when its not attached to the torque converter like the one you got in your hand it can be used for a manual also if your torque converter has the fly wheel made on to it then its just a torque converter flywheel
Great tip! I don't remember seeing that on the older dodge police cars.
Not sure when they started doing it. Dont remember seeing it 20 years ago when I first started out. Thanks for watching and Merry Christmas
Thanks David for sharing!! Hoping you and the people that are close to you have a wonderful Christmas
Thats man! I bet it will be a great one and the same to you too my friend!
i am working on this very area & the special hole location helps a lot! thanks
Any torque spec for those bolts?? Thank you.
Thank you so much for the hood videos it does help a lot I would like to know how much is torque foot pounds
Thanks for watching. The torque is different from vehicle to vehicle and brand to brand
At the crank bolts there is a small hole in flex plate put it op. Drain plug on comb.it works from 60s up
Good job on how you presented the video
Excellent David. Absolutely excellent!
Thanks Phillip! I appreciate it very much. Dont forget to subscribe and check out some of my other videos as well.
yes good but do all flexplates have this bolt hole that's different? I have a 2001 dodge ram van 5.2L and I may have to change the flexplate and the torque converter some time, Ihope not too soon!!! but I am gathering information at the moment. Thank you for the video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for that.I've only discovered your channel.I think I'll find it useful.
That's is very helpful thank you Dave
Thanks, that's the tip I needed on this chrysler.
Well i'm now on my way to removing the 8 or so dam bolts my flex plate has because the last one is not threading in lol. I knew something had to be off and was concerned it was another thing. So , I'm hoping going back over these holes and seeing an indicator or something might give me the fix it needs to allow that last bolt to grab. Im already concerned because i've never messed with this before, but how hard can it be . lol ty sir
Thank you for the info. You saved me a lot of headache.🤘
Your welcome and glad to help any time I can
Changing out a cracked flex plate Where can I find the torque specs for the bellhousing flex plate and torque converter And Transmission mounts
Super cool to know, found it on my flex plate..Thankyou David
Looking for video of engine swap 350 to 454 hooking up all the throttle body and wiring
Dave is the man! I might not do anything with that but it’s all good to know! Keep going Dave!
Appreciate it. You never know if you need something until that “one day” 🤔😂. You will be prepared either way now
Thanks for the info David. I only got cars with three pedals but I still watched it 😂 - always good stuff. Merry Christmas!
I here ya! Thanks for watching none the less and Merry Christmas!
Why don't they make the center hole fit so it aligns the flex plate in the center to start with? nice tip doing a mini cooper now and has mort than 4 bolts
Hi David, I'm reinstalling my 3.6 back in my 2014 jku. My question is how do you line up the hole once the trans and engine are mated back up. I'm using the starter hole to install the bolts and I'm not having a lot of luck finding the threads.
Enjoyed the video and thanks for sharing the information. I think you might be teasing us with that PT Cruiser in the background. :-) I look forward to when you're able to continue the series on that one. It's been one of my favorites.
I do need to get back on it....just have soon much going on and other videos I need to get out in the mean time. Hopefully soon. Thanks for the kind words and for watching. Merry Christmas
Love the thorough and helpful tip video👍🏻
Much appreciated man. Nothing that you didnt know already lol. Merry Christmas Brian.
Merry Christmas to you and your family David!
Thanks for your videos can you tell me the torque specs for flexplate to torque converter bolts on 3.6l to 845re trans?
Didn't know that, David. Thanks for sharing!
Your welcome. Glad I could throw some knowledge your way.
You are good at explaining this to me and I will be back
Much appreciated!
My question is that flex play, is there a special way to get it to Align on the crankshaft first? Ford excursion V 10 6.8
Thank you! Wonderful explanation and description.
I've been looking for that special hole for years!
Good information as usual, but why are the flex plate holes so over sized anyway?
Most likely for tolerance between the locations of the threaded portions of the torque converter and the holes on the flexplate. They arent an exact match so it takes up the slack so to speak.
@@MotorCityMechanic Thank you. Just seems tolerances on a rotating mass like that would be closer. Of course it is mass production.
I know this is a old comment but sometimes this actually works to your benefit,a lot of people will install a flexplate while a converter is not properly seated on the pump in the tranny and destroying the pump in the process while torquing down the converter to the engine.
Since the tolerances are loose (basically the flexplate holes are bigger than the screw) once your start finger tightening your bolts you can use that looseness to check and see if the converter is lose (properly seated) by rocking the screw back and forth, if it doesn't rock back and forth and it seems tight your converter is not seated properly and its telling you "dont proceed or you'll be sorry"
This is specially helpful in older Ford cars where the converter has studs and not screws, once you marry the engine to the tranny, rock those studs a bit back and forth, no rock? dont proceed, tear it dont and find out where your bind is.
@@dntlss Thankyou, interesting point.
Thanks, David
I had a starter shear the teeth off ring gear/flex plate. Replaced flex plate and starter all good. Should say it was a diesel heavy cranking to turn over. Still asked alot of people and not seen ring gear teeth broke off. Nice video Did you do anything to beef up the TE trans in video. Or add a turbo to the 3.6????
I havent seen that happen ever before but I guess there is a first time for everything. As far as the TE trans.....no modes or upgades that I know of.
hello my friend you are a wonderful person i have a problem in 62te when i put D or R the engine stops working and in the obd scan it does not show any problem can you help me
Another excellent vid David. Thank you.
Many thanks and the feedback and for watching. Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year's to you and yours.
Much appreciated and the same to you and yours!
Torque converter fell out the bell housing during installation. Converter could still function?
Thanks Big Dave, good info
Your welcome and thanks for watching
Well spoken
Well presented
Good stuff! Never knew that!
Many thanks! Glad I could share a bit of knowledge.
can you reuse the torque converter to flexplate bolt?
Thanks! Very clear video!
Your welcome! Appreciate the kind feedback
I am working on newer version of pentstars engine and there is no access hole to it, I just installed new transmission in durango 4x4 and yet I cant get torque conventer to turn with hand and it is only accessible through starter hole
my paw never told me about the SPECIAL hole ! thank you im a new man!!!
Is the special hole.only on the flexplate or do you have to match it up with a special hole on the torque converter too?
Can u give me your advice? We bolts was loose and making a rattling sound . We tighten them up and now it’s 3 months later and they starting to rattle again? Getting loose again I guess? What would cause them to get loose again? Please help
Straight up 👍🏾... I found the ⛳ hole... Lol
Happy New Year's to you and yours. Greg
Many thanks Greg! Happy New Year to you as well.
Wow imagine that I will be replace my engine on my truck for the first time I just learned something thanks
Hopefully this will save me when I put my new hemi in my 2500 ram!!!
What about Toyota Corolla. It has 6 bolts with one special bolt but all the six wholes look same. Still couldn’t figure out why the flex plate is being held tight by the bolts. Any advice on this?
We have a leak at the bellhousing it drips transmission fluid while running and then dumps it after shut off. It's a totally refurbished transmission we just got it. We have taken it out 3 times to try and figure out where its leaking from. We replaced the torque converter seal and still no luck. And the torque converter is seated properly into the transmision. So lost. Domt know if the flex plate could be the cause? Not sure
I ‘m glad to have your channel,can you let me know how to deactivate my seatbelt chime?2018 Ram Promaster 2500
Here is what I have found. I am pasting the info here. If hard to read then email me and I will send it to you that way as well.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENHANCED SEATBELT REMINDER PROGRAMMING
The seatbelt indicator also includes a programmable enhanced seatbelt reminder or BELTMINDER feature that is enabled when the vehicle is shipped from the factory. This BELTMINDER feature provides extended and modified visual seatbelt indicator and audible chime warning responses to an unbuckled driver side front seat belt. The BELTMINDER feature may be disabled or enabled by the customer using the programming sequence that follows, or by the dealer using a diagnostic scan tool.
CUSTOMER PROGRAMMING SEQUENCE
NOTE:
The following sequence of events must occur within 60 seconds of the ignition switch being placed in the ON position in order for the programming to be completed successfully.
With all doors closed and the ignition switch in any position except ON or START, buckle the driver side front seat belt.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait for the seatbelt indicator reminder function to conclude (about six seconds).
Unbuckle and buckle the driver side front seat belt three or more times, ending with the belt buckled.
Turn the ignition switch to any position except ON or START to toggle the BELTMINDER feature from its current setting (from active to inactive, or from inactive to active). A single chime tone will provide an audible confirmation that the programming sequence has been successfully completed.
it doesnt matter if the hole is keyed or not, catch all first then tighten, what your doing makes no sense, whats the rush ! Take your time and do it right and u wont have to do it again as a come back!
When your flat rate.....spinning the engine over two times is time wasted especially when they have made it simple for you already.....why not use the special hole....thats why its there. Not sure how that would have any bearings on becoming a come back but none the less....to each their own. Thanks for the comment and for watching Dwayne.
Actually, it does matter. It's just math. The design comprehends feature variation of the plate and torque converter. GD&T is applied to the dimensions so that any plate will mate to any converter, and the 2 way locator (the slot) is fastened first. The other 3 are clearance holes, and mathematically will always be aligned (as long as both parts are built within the tolerance window, which the Quality folks police).
couldn't watch it all. just wanted to know if and what type of locktite you used. Didn't need an entire " Theory of the internal combustion engine" I'm sure by your comments that some people appreciate the detailed engine theory and those are happy with your video. thanks.
Excellent video, thank you David.
However I'm working on the same exact commination, I just replaced the engine, bolting all together and now the engine spins very stiff then stops at one point. I can't tell what's going on. Any ideas??
Nothing is coming to mind.....its going to be one of those things where I would have to see it in person to get a feel of whats going on.
@@MotorCityMechanic it was one book that was not tightened!! Thanks a lot
Bolt*
Excellent Tip.
Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. Make sure to subscribe if you havent already.
I just got a question so should you always bolt the engine to the transmission first or tighten up the torque converter first to the flywheel which way should be done first
Engine and trans first. Then everything else including torque converter bolts .
@@MotorCityMechanic thank you 🕊️
Great video Happy Holidays to you and your family
Many thanks and Merry Christmas
SICK INDEXING TIP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks! Appreciate the comment