This whole series is fantastic, i love the way everything is explained and not in a chest pumping way that trys to say, we are the best and our way is the only way. Good job, love it !
Thanks!! There's SO many great products out there from so many high quality companies. We're just grateful to have our own little foothold in the industry. 😀
Excellent video series. Answered a lot of questions on how a converter works. In video 5 where you talked about stall speed the old switch pitch converters that Buick used in the 60's came to mind and made me wonder how those worked.
Thank you! The switch pitch converter was a pretty creative solution from General Motors, and was really ahead of its time as far as converter technology goes. The switch pitch feature used an electric solenoid-activated hydraulic circuit between the front pump and the torque converter to physically change the pitch of the stator vanes when activated. The stator was unique in that it featured vanes that could rotate in order to allow the pitch (angle) of the vanes to be altered via hydraulic force. It's a very cool concept. Kenne Bell enjoyed quite a bit of success with their custom switch pitch converter builds for high-horsepower Buicks. We've built quite a few over the years as well. Unfortunately the technology was never really developed any further, and original parts have just about dried up these days.
I'm working on putting an a140e back in a 96 Toyota and I've seen everything from lay the torque converter on its back and fill it slap up to others saying only add 1 quart to it to others saying that it's not self priming. Any help? Thanks.
Good morning. I am installing a TH350 and have some experience with installing transmissions. I have a question.... Since the torque converter sags ever so slightly from its own weight when resting in the transmission, prior to bolting to the flexplate,, should you lift it up ever so slightly (take the weight off) as you tighten the first torque converter to flexplate bolt? Or just pull it forward and bolt up without lifting on it?
When you talk about fluids blending and your fluid being good for everything that brings up some question. A guy at work has been continuously taking his truck With the new 8 speed transmission to the GM dealer for the latest service bulletins where they keep changing fluids to attempt to remove converter shudder. I believe they’re on their third new fluid spec at this point. Can you guys comment on shudder issues with converters and why one fluid may be used in place of another in certain scenarios?
Different fluid formulas will feature different friction modifiers to help prevent clutch chatter or shudder. I'd imagine GM may be progressively adding more friction modifiers to help combat shudder without having so much friction modifier present in the fluid that the converter clutch or clutches in the transmission actually start slipping once fully applied, but take that comment with a grain of salt as it's purely conjecture.
saab92513584 The GM issue was the moisture content of the ATF gmauthority.com/blog/2019/08/tsb-seems-to-fix-8-speed-automatic-gm-transmission-problems/
4t45e transmission from a saturn ion. Installing a different transmission from a yard and it came with the torque converter. I replaced the seal for the pump but now it does not seem like it's going in thru the seal. Almost has a slight wobble to it because I don't think it's seated yet. Am I wrong? Or should I use more force and try to get it in farther? Is there a measurement of some kind to see if it's in all the way?
should the outside surface of the torque converter hub that goes into the tranny be really smooth? mine has a layer of surface rust on some spots from sitting under a carport. also some light pitting. should i just use fine sand paper to sand down the parts with the surface rust? will the very small pitting affect anything?
Just purchased a GM25HD Max I think it is. Going behind a 496. They don’t say much about this converter other than it’s a 2500 stall. I just wonder what’s makes it an HD and especially a max.
When reinstalling the engine, I thought the converter was all the way in. But it was not. While tightening the bell housing bolts I realized something was not right. I took it all apart, found it needed to be turned and clicked in 1 more time. Could I have bent something? I am also experiencing shuttering only at take off. At an idle it feels the transmission has completely released itself from the engine. Applying throttle, it shutters, grabs, and drives completely normal after that. This issue is in forward 1st and reverse only.
@@RaisingRa yes I damaged the trans oil pump gears while trying to get the second/third click from the input shaft. I put a known good used pump in. And may have the old one rebuilt
thermal growth .... if the converter has no "float" to expand as it heats up, it can take out the transmission pump, bearings, or even engine crank bearings.
Recently rebuild my tranny on 2005 Odyssey. Everything is perfect, but each morning after start I hear cavitation noise, similar to broken power steering pump under the load, everybody has heard that winding noise. But it disappears in ~15-30 seconds. Also it disappears immediately after engaging D or R. Then, during the day, no matter how long the car sit, this noise doesn't come back. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
This whole series is fantastic, i love the way everything is explained and not in a chest pumping way that trys to say, we are the best and our way is the only way. Good job, love it !
Thanks!! There's SO many great products out there from so many high quality companies. We're just grateful to have our own little foothold in the industry. 😀
I did not know about the 1/8"-3/16" air gap requirement. Thank you for the great information.
Watched about 5 vids from different people and FINALLY found one here with the info I needed!! Cheers!! Subbing now!!
1/8” = 3.175mm
3/16” = 4.762mm
For those of us who only work in metric. :-)
This is a very important bit of information..I wrote this down in my service notes
This video was amazing and very helpful! Great job!
I'm enjoying the series...Did you cover what activates a lock up clutch in the converter.?
We sure did! You can find that information in Episode 2. Thanks for commenting!!
Excellent video series. Answered a lot of questions on how a converter works. In video 5 where you talked about stall speed the old switch pitch converters that Buick used in the 60's came to mind and made me wonder how those worked.
Thank you! The switch pitch converter was a pretty creative solution from General Motors, and was really ahead of its time as far as converter technology goes.
The switch pitch feature used an electric solenoid-activated hydraulic circuit between the front pump and the torque converter to physically change the pitch of the stator vanes when activated. The stator was unique in that it featured vanes that could rotate in order to allow the pitch (angle) of the vanes to be altered via hydraulic force.
It's a very cool concept. Kenne Bell enjoyed quite a bit of success with their custom switch pitch converter builds for high-horsepower Buicks. We've built quite a few over the years as well. Unfortunately the technology was never really developed any further, and original parts have just about dried up these days.
Very helpful
best video ive found
I'm working on putting an a140e back in a 96 Toyota and I've seen everything from lay the torque converter on its back and fill it slap up to others saying only add 1 quart to it to others saying that it's not self priming. Any help? Thanks.
Thanks again great video 👍
Good morning. I am installing a TH350 and have some experience with installing transmissions. I have a question.... Since the torque converter sags ever so slightly from its own weight when resting in the transmission, prior to bolting to the flexplate,, should you lift it up ever so slightly (take the weight off) as you tighten the first torque converter to flexplate bolt? Or just pull it forward and bolt up without lifting on it?
Good question.
Very good video
So should there still be an air gap once you put the bolts in.
Do u need to fill torque converter before install or will fluid go in eventually?
Did you ever find out?
He said to prime it first
Add 1 qt of tyranny fluid
Good stuff
When you talk about fluids blending and your fluid being good for everything that brings up some question. A guy at work has been continuously taking his truck With the new 8 speed transmission to the GM dealer for the latest service bulletins where they keep changing fluids to attempt to remove converter shudder. I believe they’re on their third new fluid spec at this point. Can you guys comment on shudder issues with converters and why one fluid may be used in place of another in certain scenarios?
Different fluid formulas will feature different friction modifiers to help prevent clutch chatter or shudder. I'd imagine GM may be progressively adding more friction modifiers to help combat shudder without having so much friction modifier present in the fluid that the converter clutch or clutches in the transmission actually start slipping once fully applied, but take that comment with a grain of salt as it's purely conjecture.
saab92513584 The GM issue was the moisture content of the ATF
gmauthority.com/blog/2019/08/tsb-seems-to-fix-8-speed-automatic-gm-transmission-problems/
4t45e transmission from a saturn ion. Installing a different transmission from a yard and it came with the torque converter. I replaced the seal for the pump but now it does not seem like it's going in thru the seal. Almost has a slight wobble to it because I don't think it's seated yet. Am I wrong? Or should I use more force and try to get it in farther? Is there a measurement of some kind to see if it's in all the way?
should the outside surface of the torque converter hub that goes into the tranny be really smooth?
mine has a layer of surface rust on some spots from sitting under a carport. also some light pitting.
should i just use fine sand paper to sand down the parts with the surface rust?
will the very small pitting affect anything?
very educative thank you
Sorry for the dumb question, but how tight should the bolts be connecting the converter to the flexplate?
Just purchased a GM25HD Max I think it is. Going behind a 496. They don’t say much about this converter other than it’s a 2500 stall. I just wonder what’s makes it an HD and especially a max.
Can you do a video on the XTM series?
Any ideas why I keep braking drive hubs.. thanks.. 4l60e ls1 420 hp
4000 stall
The torque converter I just purchased does not have thread on the bolt pad it's just holes ? How do I bolt it to flex plate
Use a set of Grade 8 bolts & nuts.
When reinstalling the engine, I thought the converter was all the way in. But it was not. While tightening the bell housing bolts I realized something was not right. I took it all apart, found it needed to be turned and clicked in 1 more time. Could I have bent something? I am also experiencing shuttering only at take off. At an idle it feels the transmission has completely released itself from the engine. Applying throttle, it shutters, grabs, and drives completely normal after that. This issue is in forward 1st and reverse only.
Maybe you don’t have enough fluids in the tranny, or the converter may have taken some damage.
Did you ever figure out the issue?
@@RaisingRa yes I damaged the trans oil pump gears while trying to get the second/third click from the input shaft. I put a known good used pump in. And may have the old one rebuilt
@@paullove1970what trans you working on?
@@RaisingRa 64 power glide
What the point of the air gap if you're just going to slide the converter forward and mate it to the flex plate in the end?
thermal growth .... if the converter has no "float" to expand as it heats up, it can take out the transmission pump, bearings, or even engine crank bearings.
Recently rebuild my tranny on 2005 Odyssey. Everything is perfect, but each morning after start I hear cavitation noise, similar to broken power steering pump under the load, everybody has heard that winding noise. But it disappears in ~15-30 seconds. Also it disappears immediately after engaging D or R. Then, during the day, no matter how long the car sit, this noise doesn't come back. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
Sounds like convertor is draining down. Dodge fixed this with a check ball in the cooler line
probably
Make these outside or get a mic.
You need a Mic on your shirt. It sounds like you are in a barrel.
?