5.7L Hemi lifter/Cam failure
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- I think it’s a damn shame that Chrysler is 100% aware of this issue and refuses to acknowledge it, to me it would be better to acknowledge it,fix it, then go after you parts supplier. I guess it’s just easier to screw the consumer. It’s a damn shame, damn shame!8
I was a Chrysler certified tech (Left and started my own business because I wanted to actually get paid for working). I saw this problem over and over. One thing I suggest is to avoid idling these engines as much as possible. I saw this mostly on police cars that idle a lot. The lifters don't get enough oil while idling. We had the same problem with roller rockers on 3.6L V6 engines, mostly in police cars. I suggest keeping the oil changed regularly, use a high quality synthetic oil and avoid idling these engines as much as possible. I live in Texas where the climate is mild, but I would imagine that this problem occurs more often in the northern states due to idling to warm up the engine in colder climates. Installing a block heater would be much less expensive than replacing the cam and lifters.
If your vehicle is out of warranty stay away from the dealership! They drool all over when a customer pay vehicle comes in for service. Most dealership repair work is warranty and the manufacturer pays very little to the dealership for this. For example, a 2004 Dodge Ram 5.7L calls for 14.2 hours to replace the camshaft and lifters but the manufacturer warranty time only pays 7 hours. They try to make up for this by taking advantage of customer pay situations.
If you think you are receiving a higher quality of work at a dealership you are wrong. I have seen the shoddiest work performed at dealerships! The techs cut corners as much as possible in order to make a living. It's hard to make a reasonable living with warranty pay rates. They are supposed to have all the manufacturer specific special tools in stock to service their vehicles but most dealership tool rooms are empty because previous employees left with them (and there are a lot of PREVIOUS EMPLOYEES at dealerships). If you want quality work performed on your vehicle take it to an independent small shop that has a good reputation and HAS TO DEPEND ON THAT REPUTATION for customers. For this kind of job I would charge about $750 for parts and about $1200 for labor and that's a professional job performed by a Chrysler certified and ASE master technician with 45 years experience. Find someone who actually knows what they are doing and who takes pride in his or her work and customer relationships.
Are the 2017 5.7 hemi's any different? Specifically on the Charger rt?
Tory Z. Just avoid idle.
Willie were you located
Where you located?
As an X Ford dealership tech I can agree with everything that you've said here. Spot on. Go to a trusted independent over a dealership.
I have a 2016 RT scat pack challenger. I had some time off during this COVID crap and had a ticking sound ( no other problems with car since purchase brand new) , which would point to the infamous hemi tick so I decided to investigate . Took air box and intake off, valve covers , rocker arm channels and pushrods out. Next removed the heads and gaskets ( naturally for new ones). Finally removed all the lifters and bled them with a small Allen key so they are at bottom of their lifting capacity when you restart engine( they will fill with oil relatively quickly). All my lifters were good and still rolled perfectly fine. To make the tear down worth it I went ahead and bought some new headers for it. Reinstall with new head gaskets and bolts and reassemble the rest of components. All in all it was about 20 hours overall labor doing it the first time, hell my girlfriend even did some of the work with me . Engine runs great. Long story short if you have the lifter failure and or cam failure on these third gen hemis it is NOT a super difficult job to take all this apart, these are relatively easy engines to work on. The Chilton service manual is available for purchase with all the factory specs for torque and such. A friend of mine had a ram with with this same engine that DID have the failure and he spent $1950 to get it fixed. If you have some time and some decent tools it is a fairly easy and very rewarding job to perform. I figured( part from my time I saved close to 1500 in labor alone)
Hey I probably do the same. I’m looking for a 2006-2007 dodge quad cab 2500 in rust free shape. I know sometime down the line I will have to do this repair but I like the 3rd Gen models.
I don't think I would trust the lifter bores after a cam / lifter failure. Would definitely look at the side of the lifters for wear marks before attempting a top end rebuild. If the old lifters are worn on the sides your bores also took wear.
Complain to the nhtsa, once they get enough complaints, they launch an investigation and that's how you get recalls
going through same thing 2010 ram1500 big horn 140000 ,miles. needs to be a class action suit against them for all these repairs
sherri abercrombie 2010 at 116,000 miles 😒
2013 75k
2016 Ram Rebel 64000 miles
2012 2500 4x4 96000 miles
sherri abercrombie maybe it’s the weight of the trucks? Having this issue with a 300c after 250k miles. Hoping it’s just the valves but we’ll see.
Thank you sir! I have been trying to find a video of someone diagnosing this issue so I could learn how to diagnose mine. This was JUST the video I needed. A huge help!
The needle bearings in the lifters seize up and freeze the lobe in place. When the lobe stops turning, it eats away the camshaft lobe.
But to me the real issue is getting the metal shavings out of the engine.
I have a 2013 and the same thing just happened to me last week!! My truck only has 71,000 miles on it thanks for the video!
this shows how good the 318 and 360s were
texas tough if you don’t mind cracked heads every 30-60k
not the 318s, ive had several go way over 200k, GREAT ENGINES. 318 is as good as a 350 and thats good. The crankshafts are the weakest point in the 318s they wear.
The old 3.9 on the dakotas were also bulletproof if well taken care also.
My 360 is at 265k miles runs like new only the typical rebuilt trans
I wish they would bring those motors back, the hemi is great but those motors had more low end grunt (not to mention getting rid of that keg barrel intake and then they really open up). A guy can dream
Same problem brother! Having my beer, but it's not mine! It's my friends jeep grand cherokee! Parts as of today are on intergalactic backorder! Good luck brother!
For a sec I thought you were drinking someone else's beer.
I had a 2012 3500 HD with the 5.7 Hemi. I had no problems with it at 135K miles. My Coworker had the same truck but one of the roller lifters locked up @185Kand wiped out the lobe just as this video shows. It was $4k to fix it, not covered under warranty. We have 2 2015 1/2 ton trucks that are being sent in under warranty. Make sure you use 5w20 oil and change it every 3k miles. Don't wait for the reminder to come on.
Neapolis perfect advice my friend. I have told everyone the exact same thing... Change the darn oil early and don't let it go very long. Mine gets it at 3,000 miles
Happened to my 2015 Charger
R/T... Waiting for reply from FCA customer assistance. Dealer was willing to make repair at 1/3 , but I don't want to pay ANYTHING. should be a recall ! Likely suit against FCA if they don't make it right.
A manufacturer isnt going to recall anything unless it's a safety issue... they could could care less about your 100k mile vehicle unless it an issue thats going to cause bodily harm.
@@pissysoles6996 , which is why I'm filing a lawsuit against FCA
@@jackwild1111 lmao. Yeah let me know how that works out for you. Even an ambulance chaser will laugh at you.
@@pissysoles6996 , lol... Tuff for a weak stick to wrap his head around. But I'll let you know.
Damn 2015 and already with that issue.
Start a class action lawsuit
Sign me up I just pay $5600 for the same repair on my 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Lol u 2 are tools
@@briansmith6242 why? You appear to be a dumb ass fanboi.
The oil change interval is every 3500 miles. Most owner dont know this. Do without proof of maintaining that schedule theres nothing you can do
@@gagecollins9711 except never buy another Dodge product again as long as you live.
Just took my 2013 charger rt in yesterday with 98k miles and a 100k warranty lmao. They really need to recall this, all the hemi/lifer failure videos have thousands of views, meaning people are looking for this issue. Love dodge, but come on. This issue needs to be addressed!
Update: The dealership finished it almost 3 months later because the cams are backordered... Wonder why
@@NYVideoGuy What kind of noise was it making? I have the same year car like yours but only 40k miles on it and it's making that ticking noise when cold. Did it twice in the last 4 months.
@@HEMI345S To be honest I do not remember. I wasnt aware of this issue and the ticking sound didnt perk my ears because of that. I only noticed some sort of failure when I hit high rpms or put the pedal to the floor and the car wouldnt go, check engine light would flash and the car started shaking. Idk if this is true either, but I read somewhere that autostart or long idles could provoke this issue.
At 98,000 miles this happened to my truck. $4,380.00 later (6 months ago) I got my truck back. Dealer did the work. There is no recall or shop advisory though the shop knows about the issue.
I have a 05 5.7 hemi engine that knock on wood won’t break soon I just passed the 300,000 mark. No major engine work done to the car.
I also have my 5.4 triton ford engine that the only thing engine work done to it is removed those garbage spark plugs and installed the 1 piece plugs. I’m just about to hit the 300,000 mark.
Maybe I got lucky have 2 plagued engines that have been flawless for me. And I don’t even change the oil religiously. And when I do it’s the cheapest conventional 10 w30 I can buy. Doesn’t matter what the vehicle calls for, it gets 10w30.
As a kid Growing up my dad always put 10w30 in every vehicle no matter what. Trucks cars vans. Average was around 500,000 mark no engine failures or any engine work done to his vehicles.
Oh wow
I leased my 19 RAM HEMI for $199 a month to avoid, after warranty bs.
My wife and I just purchased a 2009 Chrysler Aspen with the 5.7 HEMI built in December of 2008 with a little over 70,000 miles in immaculate shape and two days after purchase we took it back to the dealership due to startup tick/knock and thank goodness for the 30 day warranty. We thought it was the exhaust tick but they said it was a lifter and will be doing the $4000 job no charge. I believe we were the victims of the past owner attempting to pass it along. This should be a recall most definately, this car only averaged 7,000 miles a year and was serviced regularly according to impeccable records. This is nuts.
Just did a camshaft and lifters in a 2017 Silverado..at 59,000 miles it had one lobe wiped right out..cylinder #2 misfire..So the Chevy 5.3 isn't any better!
2017 too? Thats dogshit. Apparently Ram fixed this in 2016 (on the 5.7). Somebody needs to sue these giant manufacturers that put cheap parts designed to fail.
What!😡
I have the 5.4 3 valve Ford so I feel your pain. Seems it doesn't matter which brand you pick really.
@@mmardell9262 the 5.4l 3v is a notoriously dogshit V8 tho
Erik Seguin its melling
I have a 2011 hemi an have the same problem I think dodge should be ashamed of themselves I have no choice but attempt to fix it myself . But think I’ll take your advice an cry in my beer first . Great video thanks
Just rebuilt my 5.7 top to bottom from oil pan to intake. Replaced all the lifters with Factory OEM replacement from Dodge. 12000 miles later tick tick tick tick roller wheel on the camshaft end of lifter was shot already #8 cylinder. I even remember opening the package thinking oh good these are German made, German bearings are great!
brian b do you think if you had replaced it with high performance parts you would have had better results
@@bigfly_214 The solid lifters from the 5.7 hellcat engine are the ticket. I read many reviews on performance hydraulic lifters and it's seems people were having about the same amount of luck as OEM Hydraulic lifters, Which led me to go with OEM in the first place. My guess is the severe angle of the push rod from the lifter to the rocker arm or bad production runs of Hydraulic lifters
After seeing all the forums and such about this lifter problem, I was initially going to trade my 2014 Ram for a Toyota. No problems with the Ram yet. After finding out how little my Ram is worth and how overpriced the Toyotas are, I decided I would just keep the Ram and I will be prepared for the cost of repair and use it as an opportunity to upgrade the cam and lifters. I just ordered a tuner and I figured I will just keep the Ram and be prepared for the eventual exhaust manifold bolt failure and lifter failure and upgrade as parts fail.
I have same ideas in mind. Cam and headers!
Sorry for your luck dude, Don't feel too bad I have a GM 5.3l with the AFM failure that wiped out the cam. So it's not just Dodge guys getting the shaft :)
I have a 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi with the same problem. Only 152000 miles and always used full synthetic oil. They know they have a problem and every single hemi should be recalled and fixed. This is not a good. This will be my last dodge and it is a shame because until this happened I loved this truck.
Bought a 2010 RT 6spd. Challenger with 79K miles 6 months ago. Ran like a top until.... two weeks ago decided it didn't need the #3 exhaust valve spring anymore. Contemplating pulling the intake and doing a lifter/cam swap along with all valve springs and seals.
Check lifter sides for wear. May have worn your lifter bores in the engine block. Will just blow up again but faster if that is the case.
That was a few years ago. I ended up getting the Snap-On tool and just replacing all the valve springs. It's been fine since.
Just got my 2012 300s 5.7L back from the dealer. Yeah, #8 cylinder dead because of two flat nodes on the cam. Only has 56k miles on it $5400 to fix.
What did u have to do yo fix the cylinder head
They cylinder head and push rod were fine it was the cam that went bad. Had to replace that and I think they replaced rockers and valve springs for those two valves also.
Same thing here. Around 150,000 miles on 2011 300C 5.7 Hemi. Bought the car used in July of 2017, luckily bought the extended warranty for $2400 because already had to replace sway bar links and entire rack & pinion to begin with. That was covered. But the front shaft, driver's side, had to be replaced due to busted boot and that was out of my pocket. Sunk over $700 in it the first go around and then the stuck roller on the lifter happened and wiped my cam also. Just out $200 on that one and dodged a bullet because from all I've researched you are looking between $3500 and $4000. I love this car and have always been a Mopar guy but they have gone to shit lately. Guess I'll be trading it for a Honda before the warranty runs out.
I had both sides of my 5.7 replaced a month apart, all under warranty. The first time they did the left and the cam, next month same issue,opposite side. I would have gone with a performance cam and better lifters and rods but since it was under warranty, I had to get the same old Mopar crappy parts.
I'm dealing with this bullshit now. Kept getting a misfire in cylinder 5. Changed the spark plug and still got misfire code. Then I changed the coil pack on it and still the same thing. Then I changed my fuel injector and the code was still on. So finally I went to a mechanic and he thought it was a failed lifter. He said change my oil to see if it's metal shavings in the oil. I changed it and it was. Looked like I was going gold mining smh. Failed lifted shredded my camshaft. Debating where I want to fix it or just get rid of it by trading it. I already priced it at High Horse Performance in Delaware. They are considered #1 performance shop on the east coast. They told me they would do it for $4950.00, in which it includes a cam performance package and tune.
Good Folks and good NOT OEM parts, make sure they are NOT using Mopar Parts. Aftermarket availability is much better product. Do some research
Hey So how did you make out on repairs in Delaware.
@@josephpuchel6497 I never went to the performance place out Delaware. I actually found a mechanic who build mopar engines. He tore the engine all the way down. Not only was my camshaft shredded, my crankshaft was too, along with seals. The main seal where the camshaft sit, was shredded bad too. By me not catching it soon enough, where the main seal sits, it expanded the engine! The main seal was spinning and heating up the block which caused it to expand from the heat. So i have to get another short block. My car been in storage since. The pandemic messed up my money, so i had to put that on hold. Once i get the short block, my mechanic is going to rebuild it.
This is actually been happening since 05. It’s not due to poor materials but more due to the oiling system design as well as the crank and cam separation. All of which equal oil starvation of the cam and lifters, especially if your vehicle idles a lot.
+1 true
Same here... I purchased it this year from a well known car dealership. I got to drive it for too months before it started meessing up. I called the dealership and they told me that I should have bought the extra warranty. I told them that this Motor has so much wrong with it and they told it I bought it as is... I Only got to drive it 2 months now sitting in my driveway now for 7 months. and I’m still paying on it.. I don’t have the money to fix’s it. So sad that they want recognize that this motor is shit.
Oh yes they are and I'm awaiting a repair on my 2012 1500 currently, thank God I'd purchased an extended warranty however I'm still sceptical on keeping this truck.
I love it but I hate it.
Just had the same diagnosed on my 2012 1500 today. I'm guessing my warranty will NOT cover it... they called asking for all of my oil change records. They're going to claim I didn't maintain it, I guarantee. How much did they quote you on the repair?
Rout 66 after market type warrantee didn't really question me a whole lot being I've only put seven thousand miles on it since I bought it a year ago and changed the oil three times, I don't trust that full synthetic to go 5000 to 7000 miles... however its a must for the warrantee, I'm picking it up today hopeful that every thing will me back to pre problem condition or better.
Same cylinder, same problem. 4200 dollars to fix
13 Charger may have the same issue. However, my aftermarket warranty covers everything internally engine wise. Plus gaskets, coils, and injectors.
Ive worked as an adviser for Chrysler, GM, Ford and Toyota. GM had this almost identical issue due to their Active Fuel management the lifter would get stuck due to oil starvation, Chrysler issue is way more sever, you get lifter failures and destruction of the camshaft. GMs problem you can easily fix this one you cant. Not Idling wont solve this problem. You want a well built excellent designed vehicle buy a Toyota, it was so boring working there just no work.
Called chrysler and a few dealerships and they have nothing to say, because whatever they say can and will be used against them.
Oh man. The crushing part of this is of course that the repair isn't 'just' a $1,000 or so but it's absolutely catastrophic and close to 5 grand. I'm now thinking of getting an extended warranty when the factory warranty is almost over so that I won't be in that sad situation to have to pay a small fortune for Chrysler's mistakes and sloppy quality control.
If you have the opportunity to get an extended warranty I wouldn’t hesitate!
I'm probably gonna go through this in a minute myself. '14 Ram 151K. I work at a Chrysler dealer (not in service) and they've replaced #1 cylinder injector actuator thinking that the problem. Didn't fix it. But, it's put back together in running order on their back lot while the service department gets a write-up together of parts and cost. I'm going to talk to an independent engine shop a couple of miles down the road and because his rate is likely going to be more fair then I'm just going to limp it over to him. The measly 10 cent on the dollar employee discount doesn't help me with a big job looming like this. And once it's fixed the truck is getting traded away for a Chevrolet. This is what I get for thinking I got a good Hemi.
File enough Complaints to the Nhtsa and that how you can get a recall
The roller rockers are not getting oil on the barring due to the low slant. There is a oil passage that runs longways on block under cam shaft. The rollers depend on oil splash from the crank shaft. Under low rpm conditions the rollers don't get any splash. Even the roller rocker shafts get little oil. So to get the oil up to the roller rocker barring's the engine must be pulling 1500+ rpm. The only fix would be to have oil squirters on the camshaft area and up in the valve spring area.
No such thing as a 4000 dollar engine repair on a mass production car. For 4k you just replace that engine..
Shit for a couple grand more u can have an even better engine dropped in as a matter of fact
Hell put a cummins twelve valve in it!
Same problem 2011 charger hemi 87k miles
The 5.7 hemi was $8300 according to the dealership when they swapped mine under warranty
Jacob smith 8300??? LMAO
Damn shame. I’m looking at these videos after buying a used 05. Got three drives on it and crank no start. Shop checking for compression to see if timing might be culprit.
This issue is most common on 2009 and newer Chrysler engines. Many people blame MDS, but vehicles with MDS made before 2009 do not seem to have this issue. What is different between pre 2009 and post 2009 is VVT. So I would have to assume that the VVT upgrade to Chrysler engines is the culprit. The 5.7 was not designed for VVT. VVT was a slapped on addon in 2009 and later models. My 2005 Daytona edition Ram 1500 has over 200k miles on it now without issue. It has MDS, but no VVT
Same thing just happened to my 07 Jeep Commander Hemi. Had to buy a new vehicle. Gonna try to sell it cheap to somebody who wants to fix it, put in a new engine, or use it for parts. Loved that thing, but it's time for it to go.
The biggest issue on the cam and lifters is the angle of the lifters AND the fact they don't get oil sling from crank cause the oil galley tube cast in block blocks crank sling off. Which along with other sources lubricate the lifters in other engines but can't on these. Now if they would employ some high lubricity coatings or materials on these lifters and cam it would survive better. But by oiling through head to rocker shaft through push rods then to lifters.
The thought was less windage and rotating losses. But cost people cam shafts.
My car 5.7 had a p0305 (misfire cyl 5). Turned out to be a bad lifter. It wiped the cam. I ripped it down myself. Got lifters and a cam. After 3 tries I got it right and car ran like a bear for 25k. Unfortunately today I'm hearing a loud tick on the pass side. Moral of the story.... replace all lifters and save 4k Do it urself for under a grand
thats exactly what im going to do, go on vacation tear down the top and shove it in the dealers face, cheap china parts on an american truck, crazy
Get mopar parts. I had 2 bad lifters. Buy mopay or a reputable company. I recommend Howards
Actually if I were to do it over I would have called howards first. He can set you up with a meaty cam, springs, lifters, push rods, retainers and locks for about $1200.
Pookie's PokéMon that was what i was worried about just had my valve spring replaced cylinder 5
How hard is it for a person who has never done it before? I want to do it
Happened to my truck and just decided to go cammed and delete the mds system. Its the only real way to fix this issue
MDS and dirty oil certainly doesnt play well...
2011 ram 5.7 hemi crew cab. I just got my truck out of the shop, but let's start from the beginning, before I took it in I had called them, told them I have a misfire(#2) and a loud tapping sound coming out of the engine bay, I told them that I had checked the plugs, coil and injector wire for any obvious signs of failure (none). Also told him that I had done a little research and found that maybe it could be valve spring, lifter or cam or maybe all. I asked for a ballpark quote to repair worst case scenario in order for me to make a decision of if I was either going to repair and keep working out of this truck for another year OR try to use that money to try to purchase another truck for work. Owner of the shop tells me to bring it in and for $109 diagnostic fee he'll be able to let me know (sounds fair). I agreed and towed it there the following day, it still ran good but l didn't want to hurt it worse. Later that day he calls and tells me that there's oil leaking into the plug chamber and this is causing the dead cylinder reading. I remembered seeing some oil on the plug but the top terminal on the plugs and electrode were dry and the truck still runs good, pulls hard and it has not hesitated at all, but I did park it as soon as the check engine and the tapping. The tapping started the morning of the day I parked it, I thought it was just another exhaust leak (although it sounded a little different) but then check engine about 4 hours later, code read PO302 when I got home. I doubted that the oil leak would be the cause of such a loud tapping and not cause any hesitation and I told the shop owner all of this, but he assured that this was the issue because the oil was preventing the plugs to spark, he said the $991 repair would fix my problem. He assured me that replacing both valve cover gaskets/ seals, all 16 plugs, oil change and servicing the injectors fix my truck. I was hesitant and told him again of what I've been seeing online.... but he re-assured me that this would fix it and will be ready by the following day, so I thought he is the expert on this so I trusted him and approved the repairs. Then the next day I get a call from the owner sounding a little frustrated, and I believe not happy to inform me that the repairs did not fix it, the code was still there and still was tapping, he says he took the valve covers off afterwards and found a broken spring... (f#**!!!!) I tried to be as understanding as I could but I was frustrated, upset. I reminded him of what I've been telling him. He apologized and sounded like he felt bad but said that everything is apart now, everything now exposed and only found one bad spring. He says he can fix the one cylinder head but recommended rebuilding both cylinder heads. The new cost including both heads would be $2700 and this price was him waiving the diagnostic fee....*#&%!!! My original thoughts were that if the worst case scenario repair cost was over $2500 I would rather and actually need that money to purchase another truck to keep working and I told this guy this again. I went off his professional opinion, which I knew was not a free one and didn't mind paying to make the best decision possible. I told the shop owner that now I'm committed to this truck, and made it very obvious that I was not happy at all. That yesterday it was a $1000.00 repair cost, today it's $2700, and I told him that l can't and won't pay more tomorrow. I also asked him before l can approve the new cost, what else could possibly be unknown now that can pop up later and how much more would it be. Also how much more to go ahead and replace all the lifters since everything is opened now and in hopes to avoid future problems. His words were that the price includes replacing 1 or 2 lifters and assured me that replacing all was unnecessary and that this will fix the one issue, the existing check engine code and for any tapping related to this particular cylinder(#2 only), so I approved it. But he calls me again later that day, says that he found a seized lifter on cylinder 2. He says that these lifters sell in a set of 4 for $200, he didn't think that they were that pricey. He also sounded a little bit more confident and said that this is also a big contributor to my truck's failures. He also says that he saw a small marking on the cam but not significant enough to worry and said that it'll be ok. After l asked, he simply says that to replace the cam would be twice the amount I've already committed to, but again said he didn't think it was needed. So l thought, ok if he's willing and confident that he can complete the repair without the cam replacement and still provide the 2yr/24k mile warranty it will be ok, he is the experienced one. A week later he calls me that the truck is ready... But there were several dash lights on that weren't there before: trailer brake disconnected, traction light(button doesn't do anything), hood ajar (hood was fully closed), abs and 4wd service light on, I thought, ok maybe some loose connections and let them know. Owner apologized and says that the tech working on the truck had not told him about it but they found that replacing a bad brake light switch cleared most of them, only the service 4wd remained. He assured me that driving it for a day or 2 should clear it because his diagnostics could not read any faults, but if not he will refer me to a 4 wheel drive shop and cover the cost depending on what the 4wd shop says, I thought that sounded fair because it maybe another loose connection. Other than that the truck seemed fine so then I reviewed the $3138.63 bill to make sure there were no exclusions(none). So I pay it and drive it home, force of habit I reset the trip A because that's how I keep track of oil changes on my other car. I ran an errand that night and loaded the truck for work. The next day l drop my son off at school, went to the shop, and was able to make 3 appointments before the tapping started and the check engine returned, also the serv 4wd light is still on, 166 miles later...(*#@!) l called for someone to pick me up from the shop because l was heading straight there. I get to the shop to let the owner know and the first thing he tells me is "I told you about the cam" and shows me a picture of it, but it's hard to see inside the lifter chamber. I reminded him about all his assurances and reminded him that I had told him that l would not had started any repairs if he would had told me there were unknowns and asked many times for worst case scenarios. After several minutes of a frustrated exchange, we agreed that I'll leave it there and they'll check it, maybe it's something simple. He said he will call me tomorrow to let me know....
Man that sucks, I think from here on out I would find me a better shop, the problem is finding on that knows what the f$?@ there doing,I have two Chrysler dealers not far from me and when I spoke with both of them they said yeah we have seen are share of this, my repair was just over $4,700.
But it was done right, in fact it just returned from a 2000+ mile trip and all seams good.
Good Luck
Jesus Medrano lol
if that lifter was stuck, you could see the grind
if the metal was ground up, obvi cam lobe fucked up. id report him asap. hes trying to play you
I had this same thing happen to me Friday 102000 miles on my 2014 Ram 5.7. I'm back driving my GMC Truck 5.3 303000 miles still going. It sure is a damn shame Chrysler won't admit they have failed parts. I'm going to trade it in and get a nother GMC.
Careful chevy has the same lifter issues now.
Prime example why I dont keep cars that long. 2 years and it's gone. I never exceed any vehicle past 80 miles. But now I have a 60k rule. So no cars pass 60k miles
TeW33zy So you'd rather take a 10-20k hit on depreciation than a $5000 repair?
You should just lease a vehicle
TeW33zy lol good plan . buzz em up to 60k miles and whiz-bam trade em in
This video was done in 2017. This post is from 2021 and the problem still persist. I have a 5.7 Hemi RT Durango with 93K miles and now I get the misfire message. It idles rough and may actually stall on me at a light. Brough it to the dealership thinking it was a plug, coil, fuel issue and it is a CAM and Lifter issue. Dealer wants 7K to fix or 11K to replace the engine. This vehicle has been babied, never towed anything, highway miles, on time or early oil changes from the dealership. From my research Chrysler knows of this but it is more cost effective for folks to take it up the butt than for the corporation to do a TBD/Recall. The problem is an engine design flaw of the lubrication of the lifters and cams in these hemi's. Yes low idle does not sling enough oil on these parts and therefore make them wear out - So I should have raced mine more :) - Roller's bearings on the lifters burn out due to lack of oil at low rpms therefore the cam gets to rub on the burned out rollers the cam lobes start to grind down and lifters do not lift much the valves to not lift up and you get a misfire error. Can happen on one or multiple cylinders. U can repair but the cost is high since you have to take everything off the engine. Plus when you do to take out the cam and lifters you may run into more issues like heavy metal shavings and so forth so replacing the engine with a new crate engine with 3yr/100k warranty would be $$$marter. Loved the product when it worked but not worth buying another hemi product, especially around 90K this happens. I will stick with V8s not Hemi. F150 or Tundra? Good luck everyone.
this happens to all engines these days . i work at a chevy dealer and have seen same failure on trucks with barely 1 k miles. . not to mention 4 active recalls before you even take delivery....
To all that are having this problem, replacing a camshaft isn't very hard just time consuming. Anybody that is even a little mechanically inclined could tackle the job. Good luck to you all.
@@ericjump5337 if your doing it this way your definitely not doing something right.
@@ericjump5337there is enough room to remove the all the belt driven components and the timing cover without having to remove the front clip. If you're removing the whole front clip then obviously your not smart enough to figure this out. And you probably shouldn't be trying to work on your own vehicle. Why do unnecessary work?
@@ericjump5337 ha ha you cry baby bastard, if you don't like being put in your place then keep your dumb ass comments inside your tiny brain. People want to know the easiest and cheapest way of fixing their project. Not how some dumb ass with no experience would do it.
@@ericjump5337 and fyi i wasn't insulting you. I simply stated a fact. If you cant handle criticism maybe you should stay off the internet, we have too many cry babies in this country crying about dumb shit all the time.
@@ericjump5337 ha ha 🖕 keep your comments to yourself next time.
it ant just Chrysler all auto manufactures get away with what they can
2014 ram 1500 sport 89000 miles My truck developed a tick this sunday. Took it to the dealer tuesday foundout wednesday a valve spring failed along with a lifter that wore a bad spot on the cam i was lucky i purchased the extended warranty. Dealership said this os a $3000 repair. They are replacing all the lifters rockers valve springs and push rods on the drivers side. Cylinder #3 was where this started.
Your one of the lucky ones, or smart ones getting the extended warranty, my repair was just over $4,700, still fighting with Chrysler over it, I think I’m down to trying to get a class action lawsuit filed for all that has been affected by an obvious faulty part, bad engineering, or whatever it is that is causing this failure, Chrysler is 100% at fault for this, but they refuse to admit it.
It’s fn pathetic is what it is!
2014 ram 125000 and having same issues. New plugs coil and injector still junk. Headed to the Toyota dealer I guess. 2nd junk ram ive owned.
If they admit any of it it means they're liable for hundreds of millions of dollars in repairs. So are they smart to deny it and refused to acknowledge it, or are they stupid?
@@hotwire5894 i agree class action suit for all these repairs my 2010 1500 big horn is down now with #3
My 2012 Ram has the same issue with cylinder #5. Only 92k miles. I'm just considering a crate motor motor myself.
My 2012 just got diagnosed with the same issue. 98k miles. Did you fix it or crate it?
2018 dodge ram 1500 5.7 v8
Valve tapping already at 20,700.9 miles im pissed! It does it during real cold weather for about 15 minutes then starts to go away but it shouldn't be doing this crap at all its way to freaking new. There's a guy on UA-cam who did a video like you and even a molar tech left a comment and admitted how ridiculous this issue is dodge has only made one modification and that wasn't enough. I use the 5w-20 oil and 89 gasoline!
Hey The 6.4 Hemi truck uses 0W-40
If the sound goes away when it warms up then you have broken exhaust manifold bolts. A lifter noise won't go away when warm or cold.
My 2011 hemi jeep has been a money pit, every time I turn around I'm having to spend $100 to $200 just to keep it going. The last fix I had to do was a $500 alternator. I'm biting my nails hoping the camshaft doesn't go out, but if it does, even though I love my jeep, I'm just going to call the finance company and tell them to come get it and buy something more reliable like a 1995 Ford f150
Such a shame. 2011 seems to be a bad year. My 2015 hemi is awesome and they are generally considered a tough reliable engine.
Is your hemi in a truck?
My 2016 Longhorn has 54k miles and is quiet as a mouse. Runs like a top.
So Chrysler is DODGING you? Sorry couldn't resist.
Im gonna use that one the next cance i get.
Had a 2013 do this with 60k miles. Just out of warranty. Traded it in on a bigger truck with the cummins.
Upgrade.. MDS delete.. What a shame at so few miles
I have a 2012 jeep grand cherokee with this exact same issue, 81k miles. It's even on the same cylinder! Seriously Chrysler?
2012, 1500, 5.7, 85,000 miles. Misfire on #5. Dealership quoted $4200.00. I started dialog with Mopar by telling them I'm not unreasonable and don't expect anything for free but when they see such an obvious trend that a part is faulty they should stand by their product and commitment to service and provide some assistance. I said I thought a 50/50 split was appropriate and my case was escalated up to another level. The initial representative seem to think that I would get some assistance because my mileage was under warranty even-though my time was out. We'll see what happens and I'll definitely come back and let you all know the channel I used to get this done if it all works out like I'm hoping.
Same here, I’m over on time but under in miles, been talking and emailing back and forth with Chrysler but haven’t got them to own up to the failure yet, I won’t give up, if I get anywhere with them I will post it for sure
Welp, yesterday my case manager called me and said they are just waiting on the warranty rep to approve a $1000 co-pay and that is was pretty much a done deal. Today I get a call from the dealership saying that "District" declined to help out at all with the repair. I clearly don't understand the disconnect b/t these two results. My first reaction is that the dealership is to blame but I can't confirm that yet. I'll keep you updated. How's your case going?
Timothy Dunn so how did it turn out? Do d Chrysler pay out?
Did you had the ticking noise before start working on it we will love to ear the noise before and after
I would say this one was whacking not tiking ? Dodge has made junk from 1970 till this day!!
if 4-5 lifters has a scratches, is this issue is serious and lifters need to be replaced ? i replaced only lifters' guides. Scratches are visible (mostly on non-afm lifters) but can't feel by fingernails, not so deep I mean
Over 11,000 back orders as of right now at time of my comment on lifters from Dodge. I just replaced all lifters on one of my Chargers along with camshaft, head bolts, gaskets and I'm waiting for another set of lifters to do the same thing on another Charger with the 5.7L Hemi. It's a design flaw for sure. They need to figure something out or no one is going to want a Chrysler with the Multi Displacement System which is a shame because a lot of the Police Departments I get my cars from run the Chargers.
The problem was resolved (for the Charger Pursuit) in March of 2016 - truck 6.4 lifters, slightly softer valve springs, and a hardened camshaft. A new head gasket design is also used.
Along with some serious suspension bushing upgrades, the newer squads have been holding up very well.
The lifters do interchange across the board - all 2011 and up 5.7 - 6.2 - 6.4 V8 engines. The springs would work in the same years' 5.7 engines. The new cam is a question mark, since there is nothing so far to confirm if the Pursuit got a different grind to match the new parts.
Yeah, just bought a 2014 Jeep with the 5.7 Hemi and 90,000 on the clock. So far no codes of misfires. Being wise to the shit Hemi design prone to cam/lifter wear I bought the Ultimate Service/Repair insurance. Expensive but it's a form of sleep insurance that will deal with this problem for a $250 out of pocket deductible. Hated spending the money on insurance but with the known Chrysler problems it was an obvious decision to buy a service contract.
2012 ram 5.7 with 130k. I had the hemi tic and inspected the lifters and found one turned 90 degrees in the tray and destroyed the cam . It was on the #1 cylinder, and of course Chrysler had not heard of this issue previously but I ordered the parts the lifter tray was redesigned and was on back order for 10 months ,cmon man’. Only an ex Chrysler tech will tell you the truth... lets all make some noise to the right people and save our receipts. By the way, 1700 in parts and my tech brother in law 800 bucks later.
Chrysler needs to do a complete recall on all 5.7 Hemi vehicles. I did the repair after 2 failed attempts by an incompetent auto shop. I bought the best lifters I could find, made by Johnson Lifters, replaced the cam, removed the MDS solenoids (make sure to remove the little magnetized yoke below the solenoids!), installed the non-MDS lifters which are pressure oiled instead of splash, put it back together, reprogrammed the computer with the HP Tuner, and now it runs great. Dodge should be ashamed! Not that they care anything about their customers.
So the difference in non dps iroller lifters is the way they are getting oiled?
What did you use for the new can?
Where do I get an HP Tuner?
Yep 2013 300 C and same cylinder same problem. However transmission is acting crazy as hell too so away the car goes.
This is exactly what's happening to me on cyl5 on my Hemi 5.7 vvt year 2012 with 300,000 km I use royal purple only for my oil changes and cyl 5 is ready to go sometime by the end of the year no engine code though so I'm trading it asap lol.
dealer techs won't be fooled,dealer knows what's coming in lol
These engines need an additive with Zinc, to prevent wear like this. Not sure if that will prevent it 100% or not? But from my research, today's oils don't have the Zinc.
Mark B. That actually only applies for older engines that don’t have the rollers on the end of the lifters like these hemis do, unfortunately this is just the work of cheap parts
Like ZMax? Never tried the stuff..sounds like snake oil product
My valve spring broke at 120,000 '03 1500 hemi...cylinder 5, i believe the code was P 0305...i was curious to know do you think if i should have replaced all the valve springs with high performance parts to avoid this issue again
Big Fly to some people who haven't built engines and may not understand my answer is definitely yes. Higher compression ratio engines that we built for the street from 440s and 340 engines the others, used higher lift camshafts Double Springs on the intake and exhaust valves,... So basically beefing an engine up so that it can take more abuse that you are throwing at it. I have a 5.7 also and run a high quality synthetic, with Lucas synthetic additive, and even a Wix synthetic filter. I haven't noticed any issues as of yet but that doesn't mean that I couldn't be next, obviously these 5.7 engines have a myriad of issues. But if the engine comes apart I can tell you for sure I will be using better valve springs, checking the seats on all of the valves and probably regrinding the valves, a better quality roller camshaft and lifters, along with a better oil pump. An engine taking down this far should also have the timing chain replaced with a double roller unit. It's just good common sense. But if you didn't do any of these things it's okay, just make sure you run a great oil, I changed mine between 3000 and 3500 miles and never go over that. So far so good. Two of my sons own these vehicles with the 5.7 also. Keeping that oil changed and not letting them run in an idle situation for an extended time frame is important. Best of luck to you
I have an 03 ram 2500 and I needed a new used motor at 72k miles my crank shaft failed no oil n blah blah blah... I feel you pain I paid $3100 for a used motor with 10k miles on it wasn’t happy
Agree. They also know their tanks are bad and the wiring at right rear wheel .
My wife and I have the same issue on our 06 Dodge Daytona's.. the infamous hemi tick
it's really not that difficult of a repair, it's just time consuming. Mopar has really good Tech manuals but it doesn't change the fact that they have not corrected the lifter problem. if you have an MDS engine you have to be very attentive to the MDS and non MDS lifters to make sure they're being dropped into the proper cylinders. if you're replacing the cam you get into a lot of other components that you might as well replace because you're basically tearing the block all the way down. nice thing is no overhead cams 2 time. when your cam and crank or timed everything else is just bolting it together. got to be very careful with the heads not getting surface scratches when removing or installing them, but it's actually a easy engine to work on.
I had the repair done at a local dealership, got a new video on it coming soon, the job was a little over $4,700
Order parts for a mid-2016 Charger Pursuit. Get the lifters, springs, and cam.
Bill Toomey and this is why i tuned my car i dissable the mds systerm off from my 05 magnum 5.7
Ford? That wont help you.
I agree the dealer is outrageous. I can get a rebuild kit for $500-600 on ebay all day and rebuilt heads with quality parts for $269 each. Of course this assumes you can rebuild it yourself which is not hard to do. The only time I use the dealer is when I can't find parts any where else.
I’m experiencing the same problem 2009 Jeep commander 5.7 With 78,000 miles cam failure and I’m stuck with the bill or $5300. This is sad and disgusting.
Is a good video and is a shame that only you have 85 likes a lot of views but not much likes I bet alot of people had an idea wit this video and they couldn’t give you a like I give you mine
I gave mine. I also have a #5 misfire.
I'm attempting this repair on my own, my 2010 Charger with 142k has this problem in cylinder 5. Very disappointing! But it gives me something to do.
Good Luck! It’s a big job for sure
I'm crying with ya 2012 ram with same issue but I was starting to hooky motor up when it to a crap one. YAY HORRAY!
What are you going to do after you replace that Part in your engine are you going to traded in or are you going to keep it and how long do you think it's going to last before it fails again..? Is there an alternative like an aftermarket parsts?
I have an extended warranty but it's like pulling teeth to get them to help with this problem
anyone have the tick but tick disapeared but get mis fire at low speed. did i wipe it out so bad it got quiet? Hasnt moved.
I should not feel so bad with a 5.7 that lasted for 360,000 miles before some lifters went bad. IMO the dealer should cover this for you, it's clearly some cheap metal being used in the lifters and maybe the cams?
This happens even when you do 3000 mile oil changes. 120 k on my 5.7 challenger and yes 2011 “ the spring broke caused by the MDS valve failure. This led to finding the lifter and cam shot. Beware. If your mechanical it’s not as bad as one would think however it is crappy CRYSLERs ignorance in shafting everyone who’s got one. It will fail. The MDS is NOT GOOD AND CAUSES CATASTROPHIC FAILURES. If you have a 5.7 with an automatic 5 speed, disable the MDs or you will pay the price.
I just got a p0305 code at 80k miles. And it's my only vehicle, and it's my work truck. Can I continue to drive it? I would have never bought it had I known this was an issue. I still owe 15 grand for it
I drove mine for a few months until it got progressively worse. Wouldnt recommend it tho.
I have the same problem with cylinder 3 the dealer is very aware of this problem and don't want to add meant it.I am the only owner. It's a2012 with 69000 miles no reason for it.I have kept it Service. It's never been abused. It's just a sorry decided and a problem for alot of people
Cylinder deactivation?? My first thought.....
This is a damn shame. I have a camshaft failure at 125k. I love the truck except for this expensive known problem. So it has been a problem since 2009 at least. Fix your shit Dodge! It may be my last dodge product.
Great content.. educated comments.. thanks for posting..
Just got my "19" big horn on lease..dont think I'll be buying..
😕😕😤😤
4000 dollars is a lot of money for just a cam replacement i know a mopar engine master out here in LA ca who rebuilds hemis for less than 3000 so imm preety sure u are getting a bad deal on those cams... i dont know what state u are in my friend but keep looking because it should be waaaay cheaper than that
I was just told by a relative who had call the dealer for a repair estimate. They are charging $168 per hour
IKR you buy a motor for that
THE PEOPLE AT DODGE ARE CROOKS, JUST KEEP IGNORING THE DAMAGES TO THESE ENGINES WHILE MAKING TONS OF CASH OF US. RIGHT NOW I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM AND CANT FIND A FIX. I,M REAL MAD.
Is there a way to prevent this? As in go for aftermarket cam and lifters?
According to one mechanic and advocate for Chrysler, Melling improved the lifters for 2016 + ? You could check with them. Also, Johnson lifters make a performance part but you must delete the MDS. Notice the 100K mile warranty was reduced to 50K as this problem became more and more widespread.
Jared Thompson absolutely yes high quality aftermarket parts meant for performance definitely the way to go
@@70stunes71 Could you please post a link to parts for everyone, Im sure we all are interested in replacing with better lifters.
Aaron Edmondson no listing needed . contact your local performance parts supplier, and they will have a catalog listing for companies that Supply after market components. Such as sealed power, melling, Comp Cams. I would purchase a good quality roller cam and lifters, there are some that also offer aftermarket valve springs. The factory installed some 5.7 Hemi engines with questionable lifters. Always stay with a high quality synthetic oil, personally I use Royal Purple. But I never let the engine go to the oil specification mileage for changes. My oil gets changed at 3,500 miles. Never over. That's just personal choice. But as you well know, no matter how good of idea you have, there will be that contingent of individuals that see things differently. LOL. So be it. There are three 1500 Dodge 4-wheel drive trucks in my immediate family with the 5.7 Hemi. One of them is over a hundred thousand miles no issues of any type on the entire vehicle. The other two have under 100,000 miles and no issues on either of those on the entire truck. We have only had minor recalls that the company took care of. I stick behind my Chrysler products but also I stick behind keeping your oil changed and buying the best that you can for synthetic oil. I use the wix synthetic filter also for synthetic oil. Best of luck to anyone with these trucks. Obviously there have been failures. But I just don't know what type of oil, oil interval changes at what mileage, and if you bought a used truck you really don't know unless the person kept a detailed log, what their personal habits were with the vehicle. Too many variables with used vehicles.
@@70stunes71 thanks for replying, im gonna call around and see what aftermarket parts are available for the lifters, cam and springs.
When I found out my lifters/cam was going out on my hemi I wanted to cry too man
Bro I live in UAE and in my dodge Challenger 2013 hemi 392 SRT v8 6.4Ltr I have having engine sound very loud ticking on idle even on driving. I went to mechanics they are saying its something lifter they need to open engine to fix it and once engine is open I have to replace the gas kit also. All this will cost me alot. Please advise
@@CheemaVlogs. What type of tick.
@@theninja9563 lifter
@@CheemaVlogs. fix it or replace the engine. Cost is about the same
I have a 2012 Chrysler 300C 5.7 L Hemi, and i just started hearing the ticking sound in my engine. I'm currently trying to figure out what the problem is.
i believe that was intentional. because they want you to buy or replace your existing piece of shit than spend thousands of dollars gong thru that hustle ...typical greed in the shitty USA corporate greed.
SHAME ON DODGE FOR NOT RECALLING THESE CRAP ENGINES!!!!!!! MY 2013 55,000 DOLLAR TRUCK DONE THE SAME THING
Sue them.
Bum deal. I'm going to file suit against FCA soon.
I bet it's the cam also. but could be just the lifter. my 2006 one ton i just rebuilt it. 450,000 miles and its a wrecker sometimes it idles 2 or 3 hours a wreck if there's a lot of winching and the cam looks new who knows why one don't last and another one does and belive me I work it past hard