Because of your great depiction of video I bought one. Used already on my kia. 2 of 6 injectors are still good .... Now then I bought 6 reconditioned injectors Tested all if them Mode 3 on injectors are not working . 3 of 6 injy are not making the pulsating clicking Soooo I'm sending them all back . What a great tool to have now I will buy another one & take it on road with me in my service van 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
That price is close to what I would pay if I were to make this device myself, when one includes the cost of shipping small parts. Thanks for going through the effort of the review.
Since the case can be opened, install a momentary N/C push button switch to interrupt the power to change modes. Also simply lengthen the power wires to the desired length or completely replace with longer wire while installing switch.
good show ..TU...Just picked one up from usual place. I tested it hooked up to multimeter but obviously not a fair test measuring pulses with DC. have to find a used fuel injector without having to mortgage the house. thx for connecting it to scope. Talking about real good solid review.
IMHO the manufacture needs to add a reset function on the control panel so that you wouldn't have to disconnect and reconnect every time to change the mode of operation. A very excellent video, the best out there in explanation of the unit.
Great review, thank you. I bought this tool a few weeks back and haven't used it as yet, but good to know it was a good choice. Although I work on car's almost every day, I couldn't justify the higher priced tools for the odd occasions I might need this. I also bought an early Vantage MT2400 about a year ago and it's been very handy, and funnily enough I pulled the trigger on that after watching Ivan's UA-cam review on one he looked at for a customer..lol..also after seeing SD and Eric O making good use of theirs I figured another good choice. Thanks again for the nerdy bit's at the end..useful to know they're accurate and reliable, I'm keen to try some of those tests myself now😂👍🇦🇺
Very nice job with video, I ordered the tool over the OTC due to price and amount of use at my shop. I would recommend that you add "Not to run the unit with injectors in the car on steady pulse, or more than twice on any one injector with pump charging the injectors as it may liquid lock the motor. Other than that great job again. Thanks
Nice to hear that the unit is in use in a shop setting. That says a lot. Good point about the liquid locking, I'll add it in my description as a warning. Thanks!
That battery compartment can also be used to shorten ur power wire and rerout it to that compartment and use like a dean connector and find a good 3s lipo maybe a 800 mah and stick it in there. Whatever fit in there be fine as long its 3s 3s will charge up peak 4.20v each cell. Either way as long you store it long term the lipo should be 4.8 at all time when storage that still go above 12 v man this is awesome :)
Great video bro i brought one of these from amazon because it has excellent feedback haven't used it yet it's lot cheaper than the otc and the waekon fuel injector tester.
what resistance is on your injectors usually 12 ohms to 18 ohms on my audi they use low impedence 1.3 ohms or high impedence 12-18 ohms on my 1.3 ohms current is 12v devided 1.3amp which is about 9amp i found that tester you could not hear or feell switching but with my power probe they switch fine you try to put votmeter on the leads votmetr is to slow pick the voltage but osciloscope will show you 10v
Your review was very complete and informative. It looks like a great unit for DIY'er. I like your adaptation of how to overcome the female spade connectors because you just added some length to the cable too. I'll do some research, but do you know if fuel injector connections are universal? I have three different cars so it would be nice to make up one set of connectors and be done with it. Yes, that mode selection is a little troubling but as you suggested, us DIY'ers are only going to use this a few times. I like the wave form action buddy. I need to get back to the garage and play with my Vantage and get better with the capabilities. I think you just cost me $30. (ha ha)
Thanks. No, I don't believe that they are universal. OTC, for example, includes a set of jumper wires for those cases where the connector at the end of their tool doesn't fit an injector. If you terminate the wires with either very small alligator clips or female pins then you might just have a universal termination. As far as I know, all injectors are two pin males. Waveforms, oh yeah! I hope I spoke correctly when I was talking about them. lol
Why does my injector click when power goes into my tool? and when I activate the tool on any mode it hardly lets anything shoot out. I could really use the help thanks in advance
Hi, I brought one of these and the output current is only 2.5v. That's not enough to fire the injector. I had a second unit shipped and it was the same. What voltage does your tester send to the injector?
When using a standard voltmeter, I also measured 2.5ish volts when running in mode 4. However, with pulses this fast a standard meter won't do. Using my scope I measured the pulses in setting 1 and 4. The tester puts out pulses at 9.6v.
@@rodshehan3886 Resistors also limit current👍 Older systems used low resistance injectors, each with a separate resistor in series with them to limit the current draw. Newer systems use higher resistance injectors and don't use a separate resistor.
You are an amazing reviewer who touched on every aspect of this tool. Could you please tell me exactly which EM276 tester you purchased. There are so many variations on Amazon (Allosun, All-Sun,. Allsun). If you ordered from Amazon could you check your order history for the actual ASIN number. Secondly.....which scope were you contemplating buying before you decided on the VantagePro? Thanks so much.
Is this for high impedance injectors or low? It matters because it’ll need to be driven with a saturation or peak and hold current profile, otherwise you’ll damage the injector. If it doesn’t use the right waveform current profile then it cannot be used to measure the injector flow rate.
great video! if you know the colors and position of the cables leaving the computer that activate the injectors, is it safe to activate the injectors from those cables, or should the computer always be disconnected? I mean situations where there is little space to connect to the injectors
i dont know much, back probing maybe at the computer connector? the negative is the control, I simply thought that to measure the pressure drop of each injector, there would be an alternative, because there are almost inaccessible injectors, for example, under the intake manifold... if the only way is to disassemble parts and disconnect, that's fine, although I would prefer the opposite, my friend
After speaking to someone much more knowledgeable than I am, he says that you can safely apply ground to the injector at the PCM by back probing with the PCM connected. As most injectors are ground side switched the PCM driver is essentially open without the engine running. To activate the injector this way the key will have to be on so that the relay is energized. The problem you will have though is that you will have to have some kind of pulse modulated ground in order to pulse the injector for some period of time. Without that you can't reliably compare flow based on injector on time. Also, many vehicles have connectors between the injector and coil harness and the PCM. Look for this as it would give you easy access to all of the injector wires and totally eliminate the PCM and relay. On my three Mazda's the injector harness goes into a large connector before it gets to the PCM. Here with the connector apart, I have access to all of the injector wires and so can connect my injector tester supplying power and ground with the tool. I hope this helps sir. May I ask what vehicle you are working on? ua-cam.com/video/An4MEmisJgU/v-deo.html
You are in luck my friend. A gentleman that I know who makes diagnostic videos on UA-cam found your question very interesting and useful. He just told me that he is going to make a video about exactly how to do this! I'll let you know when it comes out and what his channel is. He also said that he's thinking that he easiest way to do this is to disconnect the PCM and remove the relay or fuse that supplies the injectors. Here you've isolated both ends of the injector circuit. Now, you can connect your injector tester to one side of the circuit and select the appropriate injector wire to activate at the PCM connector for the other side of the circuit!
i got a misfire code p0302 and changed plugs, swapped coils and checked vacuum hoses and still same code shows. would this thing help? can they be tested on the vehicle or need to be taken out to test?
This tool is used for evaluating the flow rates of individual injectors and then comparing them to each other to see if one of them isn't functioning properly. A malfunctioning injector can cause a misfire. In addition to this tool, you'd need a fuel pressure gauge installed at the same time to see, and then measure, the pressure as each injector is pulsed. If you have access to the injector connectors, you can test with injectors in the car. Use care as you don't want to pump too much fuel into the cylinder during testing! Prior to using this method, you'd probably want to observe fuel trims to get an idea of what's going on with the fuel system.
@@baxrok2. What is the method YOU preferrer if you have access to injectors/fuel rail, remove the entire rail to visualize the spay pattern and leaks in each injector? or just keep injectors installed and just look for the pressure drop/comparison to the other injectors. Also I could not understand one thing: Is there ANY indication in the tool if the injector does not pass in the test 1, 2 or 3? Tks a lot.
@@philadv Keep them in and do the pressure drop/comparison test. No, the tool does not indicate anything to indicate a pass or fail. It's all dependent on the pressure/flow.
Ok so i bought one. I want to wire in a momentary N/C button switch in the case to make it fast/ easy to change modes. I removed the 2 screws at the top of the case (in back) but I cant get the bottom of the case separated. The battery door seems to be non functional. Is it removable? If so how? I'm at the point of breaking the case! I suspect screws behind it if it comes off.
@@lcee6592 Oh boy, I have to apologize. I guess I did take it apart. It's been almost three years and I've forgotten that I did that. Sorry. I don't have it with me otherwise I'd take it apart for you to check. I keep my tools in another location.
@@baxrok2. No problem, I can hardly remember 3 days ago! I may just put a switch in-line to reset the unit. Thanks for the great video though and for the prompt reply. 👍
@@baxrok2. if I understand correctly, I would also need a fuel pressure gauge to validate that the pressure is dropping when the EM276 is testing the injector?
This tool can help you. However, it is probably easier to use a fuel pressure gage to see a leaking injector. Search Google for say.., leaky fuel injector testing. There are dozens of excellent videos that show you step by step how to do it. If you don't have a fuel pressure gage, you can borrow one from a local auto parts store. Good luck!
@@baxrok2. I wanted to do that they have a cheap set at Harbor Freight , only issue is my fuel regulator is on the beginning of the fuel rail & no test port/valve on the vehicle.
@@BigAlWillis To use the injector tester I show, you still need to have a pressure gauge attached. The tool activates the injector and then you monitor the flow, or pressure drop. So, an alternative may be to measure the injector resistance or pull the injector and do a visual inspection to see if its dripping.
Hi, I bought the same tester as you did, hoping I could test injectors. At the moment I can activate according to the instructions but looking at my picoscope I do get a very odd turn off signal. It looks as if it switching slowly since I don't get the typical voltage spike upon turn off which makes it difficult the test the electrical quality of the injector. Now watching the rest of the video I can see yours also has a bad turn off ..... the right side of the current ramp should be straight down if switched fast. Thanks, Bernhard
Bernhard List I show current ramps at the end of the video. Once off, the current should stop flowing and pintle should retract. If not then perhaps sticking injector pintle?
Yes I saw that current ramp but look at the video at 21:07 and there the ramp at the right side (turn off) should come sraight down and that tester switches too slow so there is no voltage spike and the current is a curve to the right instead of a clean cut. This reduces the useability to cleaning only because electrically only the pintle dip at switch on is clearly visible but try to display a voltage graph and there is no pintle hump there (just a slight one at the current ramp but it should be at the voltage graph). My email is bernhardlist@hotmail.com and if you mail me I send you a few good curves from an ECU switched injector compared to this one. Greetings
Bernhard List Okay, I think I see what you mean. You feel that the operation isn't as useful since the voltage spike at shutdown may indicate that the pintle isn't being moved at that time like it is when ECU switched. I'll have to look at a voltage waveform from the tester. I'll look at your waveforms too. The voltage spike occurs at the same time that the current switches off. So, as soon as the current drops the voltage will spike. I don't see how the tester can be too slow to switch the injector off? Even if it was a bit slow, Would that matter if the injector is being cycled hundreds of times during a cleaning cycle? I'm not an engineer so maybe I'm missing something.
It is definitely good for ultrasound cleaning and comparative spray pattern testing (i will build a small rig for that soon) but with my pico I can normally see the electrical (coil) condition which can only be seen with clean switching. What you can see, with the EM276, is if a coil is shorted, in that case it ramps straight up when switched on. I do have a scan (which I can forward to you) from my failed Renault car (which was falsly diagnosed to have a failed catalytic converter, I can explain why they where mislead) I believe the EM276 is a nice gadget but if it would switch fast, we could test injectors mechanically and electrically and would return them to service knowing they are in top shape. A Transistor should actually do such switching fast enough anyway so I am a bit disappointed (I don't know if the more expensive ones are any better). How can I send those scans/pictures to you?
For cleaning it should not matter, but since there is still current flowing (with the slow switching) the magnetic force holding the pintle up against spring pressure is being released slower and so it might be dampening the pintle movement and eventuelle reduce cleaning action. In my scans I could see a slow pintle action on the current ramp far right side showing that delay. If this actually was the injector (not the controller) it must be scrapped, but I tested 9 injectors and all looked the same so it is the controller. But my concern is more the electrical funktion of the injector
I believe it locks on the number because if you were to test in the car that you would need to start the car after every test as not to flood the cylinder. Its kind of a fail safe.
@Joshua River Only need to disconnect power to reset the tester if you want to change the 'pulse settings'....so you could inadvertently use any pulse setting as many times as you want without resetting if not careful...but you shouldn't do more than 2 tests per injector without running the engine to clear the cylinders before repeating the tests if required, or could risk hydro-locking a cylinder.
I don't know because I've never seen a scooter injector and I don't know how it is configured. As long as the injector has two wires this tool should work. However, you don't need this tool to make an injector open or close. There are lots of other ways to do it. Search Google for the following phrase: operate an injector with 12v
Normally, you would use a fuel pressure gauge to test for a stuck open injector. Raise the pressure to system pressure and see if it holds. If not, it could be an injector leaking, a fuel system leak, or a check valve problem in the fuel pump. Not all fuel systems have a check valve in the pump however.
@Yeshua The Way One full cycle duration is the total of 'On Time' + 'Off' time, so from when each pulse starts up to when it ends, to the exact point just before the cycle starts 'On' again. Each pulse setting is listed in m/s (milliseconds) So most of these setting will be in Hz (cycles per second) You would have to calculate Hz by dividing the pulses setting you choose into 1000m/s =(1sec) to get Hz (cycles per second)...Hope this helps.
not a good tester , the output current is to low . wil activate the injector , but cleaning is not posible, the fuel pressure is to high to open the injector, because the current for the injector is to low , use now a 9v ac trafo , works great for abouth 10 dollar .
I don't understand. Why would the tester need higher current to overcome fuel pressure? You don't clean them that way, or at least I didn't. I used an ultrasonic cleaner with a cleaning agent in it. I ran the injectors for around 10 minutes in the cleaner using the tester in constant operation mode (4). Worked fine! Also, it worked for this guy: ua-cam.com/video/5rHEeTp_Rfc/v-deo.html
What. A fuel injector circuit is less than 1 amp... It's pulse width modulated. What you're saying has nothing to do with why it can't be held open or whatever you're trying to say. You don't use these to clean injectors anyway.
Nice! Love the work showing the waveforms on the o-scope! I love to be able to see detail like this!
Because of your great depiction of video I
bought one. Used already on my kia. 2 of 6 injectors are still good ....
Now then I bought 6 reconditioned injectors
Tested all if them
Mode 3 on injectors are not working . 3 of 6 injy are not making the pulsating clicking
Soooo I'm sending them all back . What a great tool to have now I will buy another one & take it on road with me in my service van 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
That price is close to what I would pay if I were to make this device myself, when one includes the cost of shipping small parts. Thanks for going through the effort of the review.
Since the case can be opened, install a momentary N/C push button switch to interrupt the power to change modes.
Also simply lengthen the power wires to the desired length or completely replace with longer wire while installing switch.
good show ..TU...Just picked one up from usual place. I tested it hooked up to multimeter but obviously not a fair test measuring pulses with DC. have to find a used fuel injector without having to mortgage the house.
thx for connecting it to scope. Talking about real good solid review.
Great review, perfect clear voice, well explained, you should do more videos.
IMHO the manufacture needs to add a reset function on the control panel
so that you wouldn't have to disconnect and reconnect every time to change
the mode of operation. A very excellent video, the best out there in explanation
of the unit.
Agree, that would be a great addition.
Great review, thank you. I bought this tool a few weeks back and haven't used it as yet, but good to know it was a good choice. Although I work on car's almost every day, I couldn't justify the higher priced tools for the odd occasions I might need this. I also bought an early Vantage MT2400 about a year ago and it's been very handy, and funnily enough I pulled the trigger on that after watching Ivan's UA-cam review on one he looked at for a customer..lol..also after seeing SD and Eric O making good use of theirs I figured another good choice. Thanks again for the nerdy bit's at the end..useful to know they're accurate and reliable, I'm keen to try some of those tests myself now😂👍🇦🇺
Very nice job with video, I ordered the tool over the OTC due to price and amount of use at my shop. I would recommend that you add "Not to run the unit with injectors in the car on steady pulse, or more than twice on any one injector with pump charging the injectors as it may liquid lock the motor. Other than that great job again. Thanks
Nice to hear that the unit is in use in a shop setting. That says a lot. Good point about the liquid locking, I'll add it in my description as a warning. Thanks!
No problem keep up the good work
... Thank you .... an EXCELLENT critique of what appears to be a very useful tool .... Cheers
That battery compartment can also be used to shorten ur power wire and rerout it to that compartment and use like a dean connector and find a good 3s lipo maybe a 800 mah and stick it in there. Whatever fit in there be fine as long its 3s 3s will charge up peak 4.20v each cell. Either way as long you store it long term the lipo should be 4.8 at all time when storage that still go above 12 v man this is awesome :)
@Baxrok2 Do you think this signal generator is able to run multiple injectors at once - e.g. comparing spray patterns?
Great video bro i brought one of these from amazon because it has excellent feedback haven't used it yet it's lot cheaper than the otc and the waekon fuel injector tester.
Thanks, I hope it serves you well.
Thanks just bought it before the end of the video.
what resistance is on your injectors usually 12 ohms to 18 ohms on my audi they use low impedence 1.3 ohms or high impedence 12-18 ohms on my 1.3 ohms current is 12v devided 1.3amp which is about 9amp i found that tester you could not hear or feell switching but with my power probe they switch fine you try to put votmeter on the leads votmetr is to slow pick the voltage but osciloscope will show you 10v
Your review was very complete and informative. It looks like a great unit for DIY'er. I like your adaptation of how to overcome the female spade connectors because you just added some length to the cable too. I'll do some research, but do you know if fuel injector connections are universal? I have three different cars so it would be nice to make up one set of connectors and be done with it. Yes, that mode selection is a little troubling but as you suggested, us DIY'ers are only going to use this a few times. I like the wave form action buddy. I need to get back to the garage and play with my Vantage and get better with the capabilities. I think you just cost me $30. (ha ha)
Thanks. No, I don't believe that they are universal. OTC, for example, includes a set of jumper wires for those cases where the connector at the end of their tool doesn't fit an injector. If you terminate the wires with either very small alligator clips or female pins then you might just have a universal termination. As far as I know, all injectors are two pin males. Waveforms, oh yeah! I hope I spoke correctly when I was talking about them. lol
Why does my injector click when power goes into my tool? and when I activate the tool on any mode it hardly lets anything shoot out. I could really use the help thanks in advance
This will work only for saturated injectors. Is not it ?? Wont work for Peak and hold type GDI injectors.. Am I right ??
Nice review. Mine doesn’t work I tried multiple injectors that I know work and powers on but nothing to the injectors
Sorry to hear that. I haven't used mine in a very long time. Sounds like you have a defective one unfortunately.
very good information..Thank you
Hola, este aparato sirve para mandar ondas al inyector mientras se limpia con ultrasonido? Cuanto tiempo más o menos se limpia cada inyector??
Excellent coverage! Thanks for sharing. :-)
You're welcome. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing good info. What cleaning solution did you use when you cleaned the injectors with the Ultrasonic cleaner?
I used a household degreaser. There are many kinds, such as simple green, purple power, etc. The ultrasonic cleaner is really what does all the work.
@@baxrok2. Thanks for sharing, I am getting ready to clean some injectors on 1982 Porsche 928.
Hi, I brought one of these and the output current is only 2.5v. That's not enough to fire the injector. I had a second unit shipped and it was the same. What voltage does your tester send to the injector?
The output current or output voltage? Output voltage should be 12v. I'll have to check to verify but I'm pretty confident.
When using a standard voltmeter, I also measured 2.5ish volts when running in mode 4. However, with pulses this fast a standard meter won't do. Using my scope I measured the pulses in setting 1 and 4. The tester puts out pulses at 9.6v.
*for high impedance or low impedance injectors ? Mine injectors need a resistor pack to lower current*
I'm sorry but I don't know. I haven't seen or heard of any injectors that this won't work with.
Resistors lower voltage
@@rodshehan3886 Resistors also limit current👍 Older systems used low resistance injectors, each with a separate resistor in series with them to limit the current draw. Newer systems use higher resistance injectors and don't use a separate resistor.
You are an amazing reviewer who touched on every aspect of this tool. Could you please tell me exactly which EM276 tester you purchased. There are so many variations on Amazon (Allosun, All-Sun,. Allsun). If you ordered from Amazon could you check your order history for the actual ASIN number.
Secondly.....which scope were you contemplating buying before you decided on the VantagePro? Thanks so much.
Also.... would like to see what setup you used to push fluid through the injectors.
Is this for high impedance injectors or low? It matters because it’ll need to be driven with a saturation or peak and hold current profile, otherwise you’ll damage the injector. If it doesn’t use the right waveform current profile then it cannot be used to measure the injector flow rate.
I don't know.
good work! thanks very much!
It is good for diesel and gasoline injector?
great video! if you know the colors and position of the cables leaving the computer that activate the injectors, is it safe to activate the injectors from those cables, or should the computer always be disconnected? I mean situations where there is little space to connect to the injectors
Norman Detrinidad How would you use the existing cables to energize the injector if they are still connected to the injectors and computer?
i dont know much, back probing maybe at the computer connector? the negative is the control, I simply thought that to measure the pressure drop of each injector, there would be an alternative, because there are almost inaccessible injectors, for example, under the intake manifold... if the only way is to disassemble parts and disconnect, that's fine, although I would prefer the opposite, my friend
in some way with the circuit diagram i hope, i bought that tester, i'm waiting for the delivery, your video is excellent
After speaking to someone much more knowledgeable than I am, he says that you can safely apply ground to the injector at the PCM by back probing with the PCM connected. As most injectors are ground side switched the PCM driver is essentially open without the engine running. To activate the injector this way the key will have to be on so that the relay is energized. The problem you will have though is that you will have to have some kind of pulse modulated ground in order to pulse the injector for some period of time. Without that you can't reliably compare flow based on injector on time.
Also, many vehicles have connectors between the injector and coil harness and the PCM. Look for this as it would give you easy access to all of the injector wires and totally eliminate the PCM and relay. On my three Mazda's the injector harness goes into a large connector before it gets to the PCM. Here with the connector apart, I have access to all of the injector wires and so can connect my injector tester supplying power and ground with the tool. I hope this helps sir.
May I ask what vehicle you are working on?
ua-cam.com/video/An4MEmisJgU/v-deo.html
You are in luck my friend. A gentleman that I know who makes diagnostic videos on UA-cam found your question very interesting and useful. He just told me that he is going to make a video about exactly how to do this! I'll let you know when it comes out and what his channel is.
He also said that he's thinking that he easiest way to do this is to disconnect the PCM and remove the relay or fuse that supplies the injectors. Here you've isolated both ends of the injector circuit. Now, you can connect your injector tester to one side of the circuit and select the appropriate injector wire to activate at the PCM connector for the other side of the circuit!
i got a misfire code p0302 and changed plugs, swapped coils and checked vacuum hoses and still same code shows. would this thing help?
can they be tested on the vehicle or need to be taken out to test?
This tool is used for evaluating the flow rates of individual injectors and then comparing them to each other to see if one of them isn't functioning properly. A malfunctioning injector can cause a misfire. In addition to this tool, you'd need a fuel pressure gauge installed at the same time to see, and then measure, the pressure as each injector is pulsed. If you have access to the injector connectors, you can test with injectors in the car. Use care as you don't want to pump too much fuel into the cylinder during testing! Prior to using this method, you'd probably want to observe fuel trims to get an idea of what's going on with the fuel system.
@@baxrok2. What is the method YOU preferrer if you have access to injectors/fuel rail, remove the entire rail to visualize the spay pattern and leaks in each injector? or just keep injectors installed and just look for the pressure drop/comparison to the other injectors. Also I could not understand one thing: Is there ANY indication in the tool if the injector does not pass in the test 1, 2 or 3? Tks a lot.
@@philadv Keep them in and do the pressure drop/comparison test. No, the tool does not indicate anything to indicate a pass or fail. It's all dependent on the pressure/flow.
@@baxrok2. Tks for your time and great video!
Ok so i bought one. I want to wire in a momentary N/C button switch in the case to make it fast/ easy to change modes. I removed the 2 screws at the top of the case (in back) but I cant get the bottom of the case separated. The battery door seems to be non functional. Is it removable? If so how? I'm at the point of breaking the case! I suspect screws behind it if it comes off.
I don't know. I've never looked at mine that closely or taken it apart.
@@baxrok2. What was the circuit board at 12: 44 - 12:48 ?
@@lcee6592 Oh boy, I have to apologize. I guess I did take it apart. It's been almost three years and I've forgotten that I did that. Sorry. I don't have it with me otherwise I'd take it apart for you to check. I keep my tools in another location.
@@baxrok2. No problem, I can hardly remember 3 days ago! I may just put a switch in-line to reset the unit. Thanks for the great video though and for the prompt reply. 👍
@@lcee6592 Sounds good. Good luck!
Great video! can you use this tester directly on injectors without taking them out? thanks!
Yes, they can be tested in the engine. That's actually the main reason to use the tool.
@@baxrok2. thanks for the quick reply, if my compression test is good I will probably get this tester.
@@baxrok2. if I understand correctly, I would also need a fuel pressure gauge to validate that the pressure is dropping when the EM276 is testing the injector?
@@evypr0ductions Correct. There are numerous very good videos online on how to perform an 'injector pressure drop test.'
think I have a leaking injector or stuck open. would this help determine if its bad? how could I know if its stuck open?
This tool can help you. However, it is probably easier to use a fuel pressure gage to see a leaking injector. Search Google for say.., leaky fuel injector testing. There are dozens of excellent videos that show you step by step how to do it. If you don't have a fuel pressure gage, you can borrow one from a local auto parts store. Good luck!
@@baxrok2. I wanted to do that they have a cheap set at Harbor Freight , only issue is my fuel regulator is on the beginning of the fuel rail & no test port/valve on the vehicle.
@@BigAlWillis To use the injector tester I show, you still need to have a pressure gauge attached. The tool activates the injector and then you monitor the flow, or pressure drop. So, an alternative may be to measure the injector resistance or pull the injector and do a visual inspection to see if its dripping.
@@baxrok2. 10/4 I will do that. Thank you
Hi, I bought the same tester as you did, hoping I could test injectors. At the moment I can activate according to the instructions but looking at my picoscope I do get a very odd turn off signal. It looks as if it switching slowly since I don't get the typical voltage spike upon turn off which makes it difficult the test the electrical quality of the injector.
Now watching the rest of the video I can see yours also has a bad turn off ..... the right side of the current ramp should be straight down if switched fast.
Thanks, Bernhard
Bernhard List I show current ramps at the end of the video. Once off, the current should stop flowing and pintle should retract. If not then perhaps sticking injector pintle?
Yes I saw that current ramp but look at the video at 21:07 and there the ramp at the right side (turn off) should come sraight down and that tester switches too slow so there is no voltage spike and the current is a curve to the right instead of a clean cut. This reduces the useability to cleaning only because electrically only the pintle dip at switch on is clearly visible but try to display a voltage graph and there is no pintle hump there (just a slight one at the current ramp but it should be at the voltage graph). My email is bernhardlist@hotmail.com and if you mail me I send you a few good curves from an ECU switched injector compared to this one.
Greetings
Bernhard List Okay, I think I see what you mean. You feel that the operation isn't as useful since the voltage spike at shutdown may indicate that the pintle isn't being moved at that time like it is when ECU switched. I'll have to look at a voltage waveform from the tester. I'll look at your waveforms too.
The voltage spike occurs at the same time that the current switches off. So, as soon as the current drops the voltage will spike. I don't see how the tester can be too slow to switch the injector off? Even if it was a bit slow, Would that matter if the injector is being cycled hundreds of times during a cleaning cycle? I'm not an engineer so maybe I'm missing something.
It is definitely good for ultrasound cleaning and comparative spray pattern testing (i will build a small rig for that soon) but with my pico I can normally see the electrical (coil) condition which can only be seen with clean switching. What you can see, with the EM276, is if a coil is shorted, in that case it ramps straight up when switched on. I do have a scan (which I can forward to you) from my failed Renault car (which was falsly diagnosed to have a failed catalytic converter, I can explain why they where mislead)
I believe the EM276 is a nice gadget but if it would switch fast, we could test injectors mechanically and electrically and would return them to service knowing they are in top shape. A Transistor should actually do such switching fast enough anyway so I am a bit disappointed (I don't know if the more expensive ones are any better).
How can I send those scans/pictures to you?
For cleaning it should not matter, but since there is still current flowing (with the slow switching) the magnetic force holding the pintle up against spring pressure is being released slower and so it might be dampening the pintle movement and eventuelle reduce cleaning action. In my scans I could see a slow pintle action on the current ramp far right side showing that delay. If this actually was the injector (not the controller) it must be scrapped, but I tested 9 injectors and all looked the same so it is the controller.
But my concern is more the electrical funktion of the injector
I believe it locks on the number because if you were to test in the car that you would need to start the car after every test as not to flood the cylinder. Its kind of a fail safe.
Yeah, that could be. Good observation!
@Joshua River
Only need to disconnect power to reset the tester if you want to change the 'pulse settings'....so you could inadvertently use any pulse setting as many times as you want without resetting if not careful...but you shouldn't do more than 2 tests per injector without running the engine to clear the cylinders before repeating the tests if required, or could risk hydro-locking a cylinder.
have you tried running a relay on it to power 4 injectors at a time?
Jesus Garcia No, never even thought about it. If the pulse widths were shorter you might even be able to run an engine off of the thing!
Baxrok2 i am going to try using a solid state relays and see how that works. ill keep you posted if you are interested.
@@laredotech Well two years later... How did i work out with the relays? :)
@@Magistern940 that solid state relay works like a champ. I used them for multiple projects. Use a ssr heatsink for a better life
Why use a relay?
Nice tool
can you use this tool on scooter injector from the philppines let me know thank
I don't know because I've never seen a scooter injector and I don't know how it is configured. As long as the injector has two wires this tool should work. However, you don't need this tool to make an injector open or close. There are lots of other ways to do it. Search Google for the following phrase: operate an injector with 12v
thank bro
Can it tell you if you have a leaking injector?
Normally, you would use a fuel pressure gauge to test for a stuck open injector. Raise the pressure to system pressure and see if it holds. If not, it could be an injector leaking, a fuel system leak, or a check valve problem in the fuel pump. Not all fuel systems have a check valve in the pump however.
hi is the pulse mhz or hz?
I think it's hz.
@Yeshua The Way
One full cycle duration is the total of 'On Time' + 'Off' time, so from when each pulse starts up to when it ends, to the exact point just before the cycle starts 'On' again. Each pulse setting is listed in m/s (milliseconds) So most of these setting will be in Hz (cycles per second) You would have to calculate Hz by dividing the pulses setting you choose into 1000m/s =(1sec) to get Hz (cycles per second)...Hope this helps.
HOW MUCH
$34.52 on Amazon.
im a pro and i use that one all the time
not a good tester , the output current is to low . wil activate the injector , but cleaning is not posible, the fuel pressure is to high to open the injector, because the current for the injector is to low , use now a 9v ac trafo , works great for abouth 10 dollar .
I don't understand. Why would the tester need higher current to overcome fuel pressure? You don't clean them that way, or at least I didn't. I used an ultrasonic cleaner with a cleaning agent in it. I ran the injectors for around 10 minutes in the cleaner using the tester in constant operation mode (4). Worked fine!
Also, it worked for this guy: ua-cam.com/video/5rHEeTp_Rfc/v-deo.html
What. A fuel injector circuit is less than 1 amp... It's pulse width modulated. What you're saying has nothing to do with why it can't be held open or whatever you're trying to say. You don't use these to clean injectors anyway.
For injection motors can't
Gracias a dios soy bilingüe