Get the Best Sonar Readouts | "Dedicated Power" Boat Rigging
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2021
- Do you want to get the best possible readout from your fish finder(s)? Thousands of boat riggings have taught Russell Marine Products (wired2.fish/RussellMarineProd...) owner Justin Russell that "dedicated" power to each fish finder is the most essential factor in getting the best possible readouts. Justin explains what dedicated power is, what it consists of, and why it's critical for delivering optimal power to each unit. *Product links at the bottom.
We're all familiar with the garden hose vs. firehose comparison when it comes to fighting a fire. The same concept holds with boat power delivery. Russell stresses the importance of running a standalone 10-gauge marine-grade wire direct from your electronics battery to each fish finder head unit, 360 imaging, and Live sonar (if equipped). Modern, large screen fish finders and imaging sensors are power hogs - the heavy gauge wire is the best guarantee that you're delivering maximum power to each unit or technology.
When it comes to battery power, sure, a standalone electronics-only battery works great, but they come at additional cost and space and aren't feasible for all boats. If you only have room for one, Russell recommends spending the extra money on an AGM battery (preferably a Group 31). They pack a lot of performance, reliability, and longevity, making AGMs well worth the investment.
FEATURED PRODUCT
• Marine Grade Wire,10-gauge: wired2.fish/10AWGMarineGradeWire
• Interstate AGM Batterie, Group 31: wired2.fish/InterstateAGMBatte...
• Perko Battery Switch: wired2.fish/PerkoBatterySwitch
SKEETER FXR21
• BOAT - 2021 Skeeter FXR 21: wired2.fish/SkeeterFXR21
• MOTOR - Yamaha V Max SHO 250hp: wired2.fish/250hpYamahaSHO
• TROLLING MOTOR - Minn Kota Ultrex MSI+, 52’’, 36v (112 lbs): wired2.fish/MinnKotaUltrex52-RMP
SHALLOW WATER ANCHORS & ACCESSORIES
• Minn Kota Raptor 8’ Shallow Water Anchor w/Active Anchoring - Black: wired2.fish/MinnKotaRaptorBlac...
• Minn Kota Raptor Wireless Footswitch - Bluetooth: wired2.fish/RaptorFootswitch-RMP
FISH FINDERS
• CONSOLE - Humminbird HELIX 15 MEGA SI+ G4N: wired2.fish/HumminbirdHelix15-RMP
• BOW (X2) - Humminbird HELIX 10 MEGA SI+ G4N: wired2.fish/HELIX10-G4N-RMP
ACCESSORIES
• Humminbird AS ETH 5PXG 5 Port Ethernet Switch
• RMP Versa Mount (2 on bow): wired2.fish/RMP-VersaMount
• RMP Tempered Glass Screen Protector: wired2.fish/HumminbirdScreenPr...
• iPad with onX Maps: wired2.fish/onXHuntApp
• T-H Marine Hot Foot: wired2.fish/HotFootThrottle
• T-H Marine Atlas Hydraulic Jackplate: wired2.fish/ATLASJackPlate
• T-H Marine Fingerflex Blinker Trim Controls: wired2.fish/FingerFlexBlinker
• Bass Boat Technologies Single Dash Mount: wired2.fish/BassBoatTechnologi...
BATTERIES AND CHARGERS
• Minn Kota On-Board Precision Charger, 4 Bank, 15 amp (MK-460PC): wired2.fish/MinnKota460Charger...
• Perko Battery Switch: wired2.fish/PerkoBatterySwitch
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Good stuff Justin! 👊🏼💯🇺🇸
Thanks for the tips my friend!
He ain't wrong. My helix would shut off everytime I started my boat. Ran dedicated lines and been perfect ever since
If this is confusing to anyone, think of it as running a fuel line for a 50 horsepower engine, but instead you put the 225 on the back. Now you're only running enough fuel for a 50 horsepower engine
I've got a Helix 12 at the console and am going to get a helix 10 for my bow. Have room for dedicated electronics battery do i need to just run power from console unit straught to battery and same for bow? It's currently ran to the fuse panel and accesory power switch. I'd like to run dedicated toggles at each unit as well or would this be unnecessary?
So do you put it on a switch. Or is it hot all the time?
I am doing that and each unit has its own battery (ionic lithium).
Are you all opposed to lithium?
Is there a need for a breaker and cut off switch to be installed for safety in these lines?
I believe that he is running that battery through a Perko switch but you should definitely use a fuse on each one of those drops within a foot of the power source.
Did you solder them humminbird power cord to the 10 gauge wire then shrink wrap it?
You can just use a heat shrinking crimp to splice the two wires but you need to fold over/ double over your wire from your electronics to make them bigger to fit inside the larger crimp for the 10gauge power wire. That's how I've seen it done by the pros.
I'm sure the units have in-line fuses that came with it, but i feel like if you're spending that much money on electronics you should really invest in a quality fuse box and master breaker to protect everything. am i wrong?
Each unit has its own dedicated fuse.
I ran dedicated power (14awg) to both my units, but the unit on the bow still has interference. It’s an old lowrance elite 9. Any idea why?
Grounding issue maybe?
Probably from the trolling motor fuse or you've got wires too close to one another.
Why an AGM battery, am I missing something?
That's an awful lot of 10 ga wire. Build a DIY "$ea Clear" 8 AWG harness...super easy at half the price. The trick is, the wiring has to be tinned so it's shielded. WAY overkill to have one 10 ga wire per unit, when the unit's power pigtail is like 16 or 18 ga. Get rid of the manufacturer's fuse holder and install your own with tinned wire. The manufacturer's typically do not use tinned wire on their power pigtails. Put a battery cutoff switch between the harness and the starting battery so you can cut off power drain when you're not fishing...simple.
Thanks justin. Does that mean you recommend against having an accessory power switch of any kind between the batteries and the units?
You should never in my opinion have a break in your power or ground feed except for your connections an make good connections minus having a inline fuse on the positive feed at the battery east access and a toggle switch will possibly give dirty voltage or ground issues if you ground off a fuse block ground etc
@@slabslayer258 but what about, say the black box for garmin panoptix? Wouldn't that be a constant power drain in the absence of a toggle switch?
I just re-watched and saw that he had a Perko switch....nevermind.
@@brib_brib_brib_bri Yes it would but I always run that battery (typically called a 'house' battery, used solely for your electronics) through a Perko switch or a resettable breaker so no weakness through a toggle switch.
10 ga is too small to run the length of the boat without getting power loss. 8 or even 6 would be better.
Next question...why AGM over Lithium?
If you are just running one battery for cranking and for your electronics AGM is the way to go. Lithium is not recommended for a cranking battery, however, lithium is great for your trolling motor batteries or if you are running a dedicated electronics battery.
@@Wired2Fish Thank you
@@Wired2Fish Why not run a 120amp lithium for cranking and electronics? In addition, run lithiums for trolling motor. That way you will lighten the load and will be able to have one on board charger to charge the lithium batteries. In addition, you do not have the voltage drop that you would from AGM or lead acid resulting in longer run times. Also, the life expectancy of lithium is way longer. With the advancement of BMS systems in lithium batteries, many people are using them for electronics and starter with no issues as long as you buy a reputable lithium battery. Also, why not run a dedicated wire up front and install a fuse panel off it to each graph?
I understand the value of dedicated wire but the 10 gauge wire per unit confuses me some. With the fire hose analogy we run a fire hose to the front unit but it seems like there is garden hose or smaller on the unit plugs. It seems like dedicated wire to each unit that you would use wire just bigger that wire on unit plugs.
its about voltage drop not necessarily more power. a fully charged agm battery is 13vdc and you want to get as close as that as possible to the units. the smaller the conductor the higher the voltage drop. 20ft from the battery to the bow unit and you are looking at about 12.6 vdc with 14 ga conductor thats about 80% state of charge voltage at a 3 amp load. with a wet cell lead acid thats almost a 50% state of charge ). with a larger conductor you will decrease the voltage drop. with those skinny wires on the unit harness the manufacturer is assuming those will be connected directly to the battery.
@@knowitallfishing6990 thanks for the info because I was gonna ask the same question bass pro asked. I was having the problems of Every time I start a motor up, the birds would shut off, which I’m hearing destroy them in short order.
Meh. Run a #6 to the bow and branch out. Running multiple #10s serves no purpose other than to increase the labor and cost.
Why agm over lithium ?
Motor manufacturers are not recommending using Lithium for your cranking battery. If we were running a separate battery for just our electronics, it would be lithium.
Running dedicated wires to the battery will not eliminate or reduce interference issues. 🤦♂️🤦♂️
You better make sure that your boat can handle the installation of this BEFORE you buy it. To return it, he wants a processing fee, plus a 20% restocking fee, plus you pay the shipping (to be expected). Not real good customer service in my opinion.
no fuses? big mistake there
Each unit has a dedicated fuse located in the rear of the boat for easy access.
Uh...yeah. No kidding. What a MESS on the battery terminals (:25). This install is screaming BLUE SEA FUSE BLOCK! But hell, who wants their fuses all in one convenient place. :)