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Also tuck all those wired in away from the point cam . Also make sure that the coils are properly adjusted on the posts .

Mixed gas 24:1

Also your torque pattern was wrong .

Take that pan off at the back of the Motor to be able to remove and tighten the bolts .

thres a lot of oeople love rebuilding things its a reward to the past in todays screw it throw it away buy something new world.

1956,57 &58 18s were amazing. I have seen them literally running glowing red hot from failed water p-umps, watch them cool, put in pump and it just starts right back up and runs...forever. they never matched this durability again. Don't get me wrong, i love omc engines. These were just special, i rebuilt my grandpas ion 1969 at 8 years old and it still runs. Been building outboards ever since...lol omg i'm getting old...

I reconditioned three 50's motors and fully tuned up two others. They all start in 1-3 pulls. I use the original fuel system and don't convert anything. You do a good job as a do it yourselfer. Definitely a little cringing for a technician to watch. Sorry no sorry, lol.

First thing I did,was to through away the side cover....

Fuel pump on side already said modified

If you had checked the compression first, and if it was nearly equal and in a good range, there would be no reason whatsoever to remove the cylinder head. I could not tell whether you had done that or not. I sure hope you did not reuse the old head gasket which had already been compressed for many years. (Hard to tell because I could not hear what you were saying.) Watching the segment on the recoil starter, I see where you would have greatly benefited from a good shop manual. For example, no need to clamp the recoil starter after rewinding the spring; there is an alignment hole so that you can insert a rod to hold the tension while installing a handle. And the timing of the spring on the eccentric you did not seem to address, which could make the motor much more difficult to pull over. However, you did a great job overall and I congratulate you on your success. A cylinder is misfiring on the boat test, but I'm sure you addressed that by now. Like you, I love these old 18's and have four myself. They are the best of the best in an era when America produced the best in the world. Sad to see how far behind this nation has fallen today. Thank you for your video. (You surely need a better microphone; extremely hard to hear what you are saying.) Again, thanks.

Pro tip; you need to actuall thread the plug wires into the coils, just setting the wires in the hole doesn't connect them, always take the timing plate out and trim up the ends to make them fresh for the new coils to bite into. All that intermittent spark on that bottom cylinder should be gone

Hello, good video. I have a Johnson Sea Horse RD hp 25 year 1952 I need to buy some spare parts. Would you know of a store to order from Amazon? I am in Argentina. Thank you.

Doing a good job actually showing how long it takes to do something most of the UA-camrs that are out there skip seeing the actual process keep up the good work

Good video Retro!

How did you jury rig the garden hose to the water inlet?

For the shift shaft seal. Basically I need to tap a matching thread for a long bolt? That bolt will screw into the brass bushing-- then I'll hammer the bolt to pop the brass piece out?

The bushing has a hole that needs to mate with the roll pin so it won’t spin. Often what happens is that a previous job does not account for this is mushes the factory pin flush. Installing the roll pin is a way to rehab the pin that was pressed flush. You could probably get away without installing it, but there is a bit of risk. Hope this helps.

So why do we put the roll pin on?

Love the video. Suggestion - turn off the radio. I want to hear everything u say. :)

How u tell what size thay are

Nice! The first tree it cut down in many a year! My i make a suggestion, a missed opportunity, using Jon Lajoie's I don't give F#@K, specifically the chansaw chorus, for background music at the end. LOL. Great Vid! Look forward to the next one

I was just wondering when you would be posting a video again. It's been a while! Excited for this one. Love chainsaws.

Why would you not put a new gasket in instead of using the old one . Thank God you don't work on my stuff

I got one. And I ride. It ain't a banshee but that torque is alot of fun. Plus my kids can ride it. I think mines a 91. Timeless machines

Thank you for this video I've learned so much . Now I can take apart my 1957 18hp evinrude with confidence hopefully they are the same

soundin GOOD! for coming back to life. i have some motors, 1972 18hp, i have two im going to start on when the weather warms, they been sitting for a spell.

Looks bit of a not good working here with that sanding stuff.. Just take a razorblaze that you have hand-balance to it by sharpening it. No need to scrape metal off. MasT OF MAst ON !

Awesome video. Nice work, this will help

That points set is for like a 1970's 9.9 Sierra 18-5141 is the wrong set

Does your thickness gauge not have a .020? I see you using several to add up to .020. Just curious why not just use the single .020

Just my thoughts but if you're going to clip one end of the spark wire why wouldn't you clip the coil ends? Your cam wiper felt looks shot too. I always remove the mag plate, clean it thoroughly and re-grease the pivot area. Replace the spark wires & boots. Use a coil locator to get the proper air gap. If you must re-use the points, just clean them up nice with some 400/600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. They were probably just corroded or dirty from years of sitting. Just my thoughts and everyone has their own way. Great content on your video 👌

Another good one! Patience and persistence pays off again!

This guy has NO training and no clue and is going about this all wrong. RESURFACE BLOCK AND HEAD <REPLACE HEAD GAKET WITH NEW .NEVER REUSE A HEAD GASKET ESPECIALY ONE THAT HAS BEEN DENTED BY THE DOME OF THE PISTON. DO NOT FOLLOW THIS GUY!!! NEVER USE SEALANT OF ANY KIND ,PLUGS THE COOLING SYSTEM!!!! He didnt wire wheel the bolts or run a tap through the holes to clean threads , he didn't grease the bolts either . This job will fail soon and cause more damage , HACKER!!!! P.S. NEXT TIME REMOVE THE LOWER REAR PAN <YA KNOW, WHEN THIS FAILS.

Some grease on the end of that drive shaft. And some vaseline would have worked on that rubber grommet as well.

On the points when you put the new ones one a bit if grease on the post have been nice .

That weedless prop is no good for Hp

Shat shear pin can be made out of brass to save on your propeller blades..

For that bolt on the shifter connector use a screw starter tool.

OMC should still have them you can look up the part number of deon any 18hp or the 1956 15hp or 68 Evinrude part number. OMC Part number is 43-123 and should be able to buy them in bulk or you can use teflon tape and roll it like a snake and wrap it on the needle .

Change that float to the updated plastic one cause after time varnish peels and then the float sinks . Cause if it had been sitting for a long time then after a few soakings in gas they tend to peel.

No thermostat needed .

Tuck that green wire in nice and neat under the coil. Also set your coil legs using a flat screwdriver to make sure there even on the top of the posts like you said . When you go to run it use a 9X9 pitch propeller or a 9 1/4 X 11 and watch that motor dance.

Make sure no wired touch the Flywheel when you put everything in place and the larger grommets need to be remove. To be able to put new coils in place.

Glad you got it all going and nice to see the original Medallion still present as most of them are missing and people have put the one from the 1957 on a 1958 hood . Your Motor is a 1958 by the way. Any motor with that color scheme is 1958 opposite color scheme on the hood and a darker red is 1957.

Wow i can't believe that your leaving that o-ring on the screw like that on the bottom of the bottom end .

On the bottom of the gear case you can use some allen head bolts as I have changed mine over to some.

1958.only year for that Color scheme .

You did forget a screw on the front of the air box .

Propeller should be 9 1/4 X 11 standard propeller . Also you should use brass shear pins you can make some save on the propeller . The propeller nut should be just finger tight.

There should be an O-ring on the end of the drive shaft and grease when you put it back in.