N54 Turbo Wastegate Rattle & 30FF Diagnosis
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- Опубліковано 26 бер 2016
- ** I now do turbo rebuilds or will buy your car outright! Contact me for inquiries - berga610@gmail.com **
BMW N54 twin-turbo engines are notorious for "wastegate rattle." This occurs when the wastegate flapper shaft becomes loose in its bore and doesn't close fully. This video is taken with the turbos out of the engine for clarity.
DIY for rebuilding turbo wastegates: www.e90post.com/forums/showthr...
2007 BMW 335xi with 99k miles - Авто та транспорт
Dude this is a fantastic video and explanation. Thank you so much. I have a 335i and having the waste gate rattle.
I could not have said it any better myself - this video is fantastic.
beautifully technical information , music to my ears , classy video, wish u had more suscriptores bro, coz this is the info we're looking for
Perfect explanation!
you did it right - thats how to check these turbos ! good job!
Thank you thank you thank you!!!
Very good video
I'm sorry man, I couldnt take it serious after the squeaky toy sound that thing was making at 2:16 :D
/nice vid
Hey Andrew, Thanks for showing us this very good description! i just have a question i have a 335i coupe and it has about 57k and it has the same problem. do you think this can hurt the engine by any chance if there not replace on time ?
Best demonstration of the rattling I've seen yet, thanks! Any idea how well it builds/holds boost when you have the rods tightened like that but still have slop in the shafts?
+Eric Peterson Initially, my car threw 30FF errors during hard acceleration. (See the other youtube video on my channel for that test). After that, I tried tightening the rod on only my rear turbo because the front was inaccessible. It solved the 30FF fault didn't build boost as it should according to other drivers' boost charts. Basically the boost came on later and slower than it would have with healthy turbos: it was at 0psi around 3k rpm, topping out at 8psi around 6k rpm. Normally it should reach 8psi around 3-4k I believe.
hey man is it possible you could make that nut adjustment video ?
My wg's are pretty sloppy. Just did stage 1 flash and throwing the 30ff. How many rotations did it take roughly to tighten? 4 thread rotations?
Hi Andrew, am I correct that even when having thee turbos including the wastegates replaced with new parts they still might get the same problem and start rattling, too? If so, are there other turbos including the wastegates that fit on the 2006 335i? Or do you recommend something else?
Looking forward to your answer! Thanks
The Grand Channel if you don't want rattle (which WILL return with OEM replacement turbos, no matter if new or not), send your turbos out to have them rebuilt or purchase aftermarket turbos (I recommend Pure turbos). Although with aftermarket turbos, you will need to run a tune and other supporting mods.
I think when my torbos go to the retirment, want to by no stock turbos. Sorry for my english.
That's not a mighty vac, that's a dogs toy! My ears will never be the same
Ha, sorry about that. Shortly after this video was made I upgraded to the adult version: Mityvac MITMV8500 Silverline Elite Automotive Vacuum Pump Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SQYUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PlNNxbT15H7PM
I think this is happening to me, everything is ok on the road (can't really do 120mph+ runs one after another in short time to replicate the issue), but on the last 2 trackdays, it'd get 30FE after a couple laps, could already feel throttle closures in 3rd before the half CEL and 3100 & 30FE errors, probably the wastegates sticking shut on one turbo. New boost solenoids didn't help at all, so must be physical then.
Sound more like a tune issue than a physical one. Especially if you ruled out the solenoid vent filter being clogged. There are many reports of off-the-shelf tunes with too much wastegate duty cycle that causes 30FE over-boost. A custom WGDC base map needs to be tailored for the particular setup running it, or the PID control system might not be able to react in time. The vacuum controlled wastegate system is fail-safe designed to leave the wastegates open when parts go bad. As in: The unpowered or faulty state for the solenoids and wastegate assembly leave them sprung or worn open.
Have some one expireence with hybrid turbos?
Nice to see what causes the dreaded 30ff code. My N54 135i has 120,000 miles and needs new turbos. The car goes into "limp mode" when I try to accelerate over 3500 rpm.
Yup, sounds about right. Too bad you won't be covered under warranty!
Andrew, I don't track my car. Should I just stick to OEM BMW replacement turbos or are the ones made by Mitsubishi equivalent?
I shave by heard about the ones made by Mitsubishi; could you post a link? In general I think you have three choices- new OEM, rebuilt OEM, or RB turbos. My pick would be rebuilt OEM because it'll be cheapest (maybe $1000 before labor?) and will still behave like BMW intended.
*haven't
im replaceing my turbos on my 335i n54 i bought the turbos is there anything else i should change at the time i put them in? are all the bolts good or are the stock ones 1 time use?
BUMPY JOHNSON you will need new gaskets and some bolts. Read the diy linked in the description.
I have just bought a 335i . I can't hear no noises from my waste gates like people say you can hear a rattle . but if I go for boost some times it will build boost really good and then some times I have the feather the throttle .. could this be down to the dreaded waste gate flaps ? you're video has made me think there on there way out .
Just my question. Did you ever find out ?
Hey photo bucket is getting in my way of viewing your diy, can you post the pdf file
Moonman Ak argh yeah, have been meaning to do that, sorry!
Andrew Berg could you email it to me Ahtasham.khan97@yahoo.com
I want to do this but just seems like the amount of work involved to pull the turbos and reinstall them Id be better off throwing in some upgrades... how long did it take you to pull and reinstall the turbos? not counting the repair time. also, how long you think being xi added to the time?
It was about 10 hours to remove and 15 to reinstall. Cost of additional gaskets and hardware was about $250. Being XI added about one hour both ways to deal with the passenger drive axle. I usually prefer stock equipment (for resale purposes) but I could certainly see the value in upgrading turbos "while you're in there"
I have the code 30ff in my x6 2010. It seems to be lacking in power. Could that be the reason shown in the video? Please someone help me.
Cariocar auto mecânica it's possible. You could also have failed vacuum solenoids to activate the wastegate. But if you have >80k miles I'd bet your turbos are worn out.
Did you ever find out what was the problem on X6?
do you have to drop the engine to pull these? i have the road facing cover off and it seems like there is so much stuff in the way on the 2012 740Li... it is not x-drive, but still, lot of suspension components in the way
same here man, 740li is so bloody packed cant do shit, took me 3 hours to change the vacuum lines at the wg itself, while took me 15 mins on my e92. Plus mine is both RHD
It's a full bottom-to-top removal. Had to disconnect sway-bar links and tie-rod ends from the suspension. Subframe and engine mount removal. I suspend the engine on a support bar and lower it a few inches for better clearance.
@@greenlungo3996 i literally pulled the entire engine out and replace the turbos, 100x easier
@@Zackrevoluzion Interesting. I'm only guessing, but I suppose you mean disconnecting the exhaust, drive-shaft and sway-bar links and front axles if you are x-drive. You then support the subframe and transmission mount as you unbolt them. Then lift the car as the engine, subframe and transmission stay behind together.
@@greenlungo3996 Technically, that was the plan, however, we upon realize that removing the entire subframe with the trans/engine/suspensions etc all attached (like how i did for my gtr) would had been quite a hassle since there were ac lines going to the side of the subframe and to the rear of the car, there were also too many hoses including dynamic drive rear steering, rear roll bar dynamic hose etc and it was literally attached to the subframe, we would had to remove all those hoses to drop everything.
So what we did was, remove bellhousing bolts, unbolt engine mount, remove all wiring harness, intake manifold/tb, remove the entire front end (reason because i was swapping out condensor, rad, aftermarket ic and headlight mods anyways) and just pull the entire engine out front and onto the stand. Replace valve cover, oil pan gasket, flush vanos filter, replace turbos which was sooo much easier as well.
But we do plan on trying to drop the subframe in near future as we need to do the downpipe and custom made turbo inlets.
Shop quoted 5k to replace them if they go out. really want one of these cars and i have a pretty good mechanical ability, but pulling turbos looks like hell . Im assuming that 5k quote included turbos that were probably from bmw which would probably cost a lot more. What do you think labor would run to replace them if i provided the turbos?
Get a n55 motor from a 2010 or later model
There mitsubishi turbos and they can be upgraded while your there to make the car crazy powerful, its £8k car and was 35 new and you can make it quicker how is it not worth maintaining. Its all you need.
I'm dreading about replacing my turbos. What is a ball park figure for cost to replace them?
Depends on how you want to approach it, and what deals you find. A couple options:
-RB Turbos upgrade. Costs $3000
-New OEM turbos. I've seen them go for ~$1800.
-Rebuild yours yourself: $350 (see DIY link in description)
-Have Turbo Lab of America rebuild yours (~$1000)
+Andrew Berg Thank you
Andrew, ECStuning.com has them for the N54. $699.00 just search N54 turbo.
Oh, those look nice! Yeah, if you can afford them I'd buy that.
Is it possible to have turbos go bad but not rattle at all?
Chase Higgins that’s a good question! I don’t know for sure, but I bet you it is.
Hi Andrew, I have a 335i 2006 that has the same problem with the wastegates. As soon as I accelerate the car between 4000 and 5000 rpm the ff30 code appears but not always. What's more annoying however, is that the wastegates make rattling noise.
However, would you recommend fixing the wastegates with a kit that includes the needed parts(see link below) or do you think I better have my turbos replaced?
Looking forward to your answer!
m.ebay.com/itm/111856454441?rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Ficep_ff3%3D2%26pub%3D5575106452%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5337795400%26customid%3D335i%2Bwastegate%2BRattle%26icep_item%3D111856454441%26ipn%3Dpsmain%26icep_vectorid%3D229466%26kwid%3D902099%26mtid%3D824%26kw%3Dlg%26srcrot%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1105645570830&_mwBanner=1&ul_noapp=true
L 05 I know this is an old post, but have you finally installed the repair kit? Did it solve the issue? Tks
There is 152000 km. on my car i didnt have any problems yet on engine. Only sparck coils.
See my other video on how to rebuild them
She's all flippity floppity.
make a video of how you fixed it
Step1: Open your wallet
Step2: Cry
Actually, here's the DIY : www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1249306
I'll be getting the Mitsubishi turbos next month. Gotta space out the cost over a couple of months. This fix isn't cheap.
Hello how are you i have bmw 750li year 2009 i have proplem i check about with computer and she pull these codes but i dont now where is the location for sensors...Crankshaft inlet camshaft 2 reference: angle difference outside limit value Crankshaft exhaust camshaft 2 reference: angle difference outside limit value
is there any way you have a facebook i can msg u? i have a few questions about a 325i 06 rattle
you dont have turbos lol
im having a bad day bc my 335i is giving me problems but that made my day a little better lol
My Catless down pipes and non standard charge pipe and N54 will void my warranty
Easy to repair :)
Vargas kit
This is a bad design on bmws part...every other turbo that i have ever seen has the flapper tight in the closed position at all times and the flap opens when proper boost level is achieved...so when at rest the door is shut tight and not allowed to rattle..the acuator holds everything from ratteling...this setup has the flappers open at rest...so at idle the hot exhaust revs go in and shake the crap outta the door and cause it to wear the bushing out...bad design
The issue with that is if your vacuum controller fucks up now you stuck with a car that just boosts and you can't limp it back home.
@@JackRR15 also another issue is. if someone never drives car hard enough, waste gate will get stuck.
The turbos are soooo small
What size turbo would you put on a 1.5L?
It is by design, this means the 335i has basically no turbo lag.
What a shitty design. These newer BMWs are not worth owning out of warranty.
crispynotburnt thats how it is for every factory internally waste-gated gas turbo. Dodge, vw tsi, ford ecoboost, bmw, mercedes etc. its just a part to save cost and reason to make money for dealerships
crispynotburnt Single turbo DONE
That's a Mitsubishi turbo
These turbos are made by Mitsubishi. Absolute garbage, this is what happens when the Germans contract with asian suppliers.
Those turbos usually last around 300k kilometres.
@@MassEveNova
LOL umm..no. It's mitsubishi...they're absolute trash.
@@MassEveNova yea no lol mine are about to hit 50k and have rattling noise already (it’s not an exhaust rattle btw) stock turbos are garbage