I must correct something I screwed up in the video. For some reason I said sand to 2000 BEFORE heat treat, I meant before the etch. Sorry for the confusion!!
I typically sand up to a near mirror polish before heat treat anyway, but haven't tried a hamon like that yet. With the additional ridges that sanding at a lower grit leaves, it makes me wonder if there will actually be a difference on the hamon in sanding to a higher grit before heat treat, given that the high spots on the ridges will get hotter and quench faster due to their lower thickness. For context, I sand to such a high grit before heat treat and then use NuClayer No-Scale during heat treat. I can usually start sanding at 4-600 right after temper that way. NuClayer also makes a clay for hamons.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thx for clearing that up. I going to go for some hamons on my next run. Im not a fan of of high grit sanding either. I appreciate the recommendation for the abrasive powder. Ill give that a try. You got a great channel. Thanks again for the videos.
Hamons were definitely something that grew on me through Wootz as I’ve been pleased by the subtle auto hamons achieved in Wootz. Great looking blade btw!
Thanks for sharing this info, very informative and great video. Why do you use Parks instead of water for the fast quenching steels, like W2? And would you get a different result on the Hamon if you used water as opposed to Parks? Thanks!
Pretty much nobody uses water to quench knife steel these days. It's too unpredictable and error prone. I doubt you'd get much a difference in the hamon. Maybe a little, but it's not worth the high failure rate you'd get by quenching in water. Parks50 is absolutely repeatable and dependable. Thanks for watching.
Another great TTT video Dennis. I really enjoy how you break it down without talking down in your explanation. That blade looks great. Thanks for sharing!
Great video! I have found that you can create a more predictable Hamon and preserves more of the wispy tendrils if you are careful to match the clay on both sides of the blade. Recently I started making a template to trace the line onto the blade to mirror both sides. My biggest issue has been, the Satinite I'm using, flaking off.
A template is an excellent idea! I may start to use that. I don’t know what’s in that hamon glop, but it really sticks. I’ve never had it come off. Thanks for watching.
Do you mean applying the clay? It should be normalized, pre-HT bevels ground and thermo-cycled a few times. You are applying the clay before your austenizing/quenching cycle. Thanks for watching
With Japanese Swords made in Japan by Japanese smiths using traditional bloom steel, one thing you will notice is that the clay goes ALL THE WAY to the edge. In otherwords, the entire blade is clayed and none of the metal is exposed. The spine obviously has much thicker claying -- something like 1/4 of an inch or 1/6 of an inch whereas the edge is barely covered by a paper thin layer of clay. Depending on the Hamon style there may or may not be crisscrosses of thick clay fingers added. Not sure why they do that. Maybe it's because they quench exclusively in water and a bit of extra insulation for the entire sword reduces breakage during the quench. Or, maybe it helps with the induce wispy details which are favored in certain Hamon styles like Choji or Midare. -- Another thing of note is that -- tradition and prestige aside -- Tatara bloom steel (aka. Jade Steel, Tamahagane) is favored over modern steels like 1095 or W2 is that it contains no manganese which is bad for Hamons. I think that ideally, the best steel for differential hardened sword or large knives will be a powdered metal steel with a little Vanadium and Niobium (less than 1% total) but zero chromium, zero manganese and zero sulfur. Unfortunately, nobody makes something like that and you are forced to choose between high impurity bloom steel or clean modern carbon steel with too much manganese and silicon.
Great video Dennis. Love the knife. Another thing some makers play with is the etching and polishing process. Nick wheeler does a great job on his hamons aswell. I believe using a lighter etching process like lemon juice can really change how your hamon shows up. You will see different subtlties come out with different processes. Definitely an easy rabbit hole to fall into.
Hey Dennis, super vid as usual! Question: How are the O series steels at generating a hamon line? I ask because I was given a bunch of O1 tool steel. Thx man. See you in ATL in June.
I’ve never had it fall off during the quench. When it comes out of the oil, I just give it a couple taps and it falls off. 👍. Thanks for watching, Jason.
Yes, that is ideal and something I didn't do on this blade but I'll do a followup video when I do this again. Best to make a template and then copy the pattern on the other side. That's how you get the wispy parts. Thanks for watching.
Kyle Royer keeps referring to sunshine cloth in his videos for polishing out post-etch Damascus... Have you tried it? Might be a easier, less messy method than loose grit.
I always liked the Hitachi-white #1 and Uddeholm 26C3 for hamons, mostly because W-series is usually very rare here and a lot of 1095 tended to... I can't say I hate it, but I've had a few batches that aren't worth the money and its already a difficult steel to get the most out of. Whereas the high quality of White-1 and 26C3 has always been immaculate. Essentially, most of the high carbon, low alloy steels will take a hamon. Its when they get a lot of manganese and particularly molybdenum for deeper hardening it tends to not work as well, most of the higher alloy tool steels also tend to have little to no chance of showing one. Though it might be differential hardened it will probably not show.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Just get the 26C3, its probably a bit better than the white-1 anyway in terms of what you can do with it and it should be more available now. I sent some to Erick Rivers a bit over a year ago as his 'first go' for making a Hamon and it worked just fine for him. Nice thing about it is that its really easy to get high edge stability at the 65HRC range and if you temper it down to 61HRC its really a very tough steel
Hey @TyrellKnifeworks , I have watched a lot of your videos but I can’t find an answer to my question which is, can you make a hamon on damascus steel? I am using 1095 and 15n20
The 1095 might give you a hamon, but why would you? The Damascus that’s soft won’t etch dark so it won’t look good. This is best for a mono steel. W2 gives the best hamon. Thanks for watching.
Good morning Master. You said "special oil". For the 1095, which oil to use? I live in Brazil and use diesel fuel for the 1095. Can I continue to use it?
You should never use diesel oil for quenching. It is not good for your health and it’s a bad quenchant. You really want engineered quench oil. Here in the US it’s “Parks50” quench oil. Thanks for watching.
Red clay and ash is a good combo. Any refractory cement works just fine. It simply has to insulate the spine (without breaking off in the quench) for 30 seconds. Although, now you have me curious as to what the hamon gloop is.
@@TyrellKnifeworks cool that makes more sense. You still have to take deacarb off post HT and that's a lot of steel in itself. I even did a Hamon on blanks w/o a bevel and then ground post heat treat, it still works although looks more mild.
I appreciate this video very much. I have one question: does anyone think it's possible to have a jagged section of the hamon line at the base of blade, and then transition to just a smooth straight line from halfway point of blade to the tip?
From experience don’t get the main body of clay to close to the cutting edge or on to thick. I did a katana a while back. 1080 steel, satanite clay, 130*f brine quench, 375*F temper. The edge is 63+ hrc. (According to files) It pretty much skates a 65hrc. The spine is soft as expected. I stopped checking after a 50. The problem is that it will bend and stay bent. It will not spring back. There’s not enough hardened steel in it to make flex back to its original shape. Hard lesson learned.
I truly appreciate the information. I’ve got one in the tempering oven right now following all your information. I was using the Hamon 1800. I was following your recommendations from your most recent video. I didn’t do it interrupted quench though the faster the better I’ll take the risk was using parks 50. As soon as I get it, polished up a little bit, I’ll post a one minute or so video mentioning you, of course
The longitudinal lines in the hamon aren’t necessarily from grinding or sanding, I can see them in blades that have only been ground vertically so in those cases it would have to be something else. I rarely grind above 120 before hardening and a common issue I see people having with hamons is trying to do too much before hardening and not enough grinding afterwards to remove the decarb.
I actually corrected that in the pinned comment, I made a mistake in the video I meant to sand to 2000 before ETCH, not HT. Grind lines are going to be in the other direction so if it were caused from grinding you'd see them vertically instead of horizontally, but your sanding lines are typically horizontal. Thanks for watching.
Funny you said a straight line is boring. Suga-ha hamons are my favorite. (Also, notoriously difficult to do, correctly.) Though, literally everyone says I have boring tastes, soooo... 😂🤣🤣😂
You didn't explain WHY the hamon appears, which is what a lot of people don't understand. The harder martensite at the edge polishes differently because it's harder. If you look closely at old nihonto, the hamon often literally sticks out from being so burnished. With that understanding you can plan your edge polish accordingly. For the transition zone, many Japanese sword polishers make the microscratches in the transition go in different directions so they catch the light at varied angles.
Just a minor note on Japanese grammar: there is no "s" to indicate plural in Japanese. The plural of "hamon" is "hamon." Ditto for "katana." If you continue to use "katanas" and "hamons," that's your choice, and if anyone else criticizes, just say, "I know." BTW, thanks for the helpful and detailed instruction.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I haven't personally used it either but I've read about it and Alpha Knife Supply says its excelent for hamons. they say: "The composition of 26C3 is similar to Hitachi White steel. The steel is very clean with few alloying elements. The high carbon content helps the steel get very hard. The first knife we made tested just under HRC 68. This alloy is an excellent choice for knifemakers who want to make knives with a hamon." Its 1.25% carbon and .38% mang.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Its a meme from a show called JoJo's bizarre adventure, the show is popular for doing references to real events,places and person, so people say holy shit it's a Jojo reference when they the things that are referenced in the show in real life inthe the show the protagonist uses powers of the sun called hamon through breathing and concentration and when I saw the word hamon in your title i couldn't help myself and i typed it, anyway love you work brother
Dang, the more I watch the more I want a forge... But when I see all the tooling needed to do some advanced stuff I remember my financial situation.... 😫 🤬
You don't really need all the fancy tooling though. Watch my Beginner Series playlist, that will help you get started with minimal investment. Thanks for watching, Dan.
I must correct something I screwed up in the video. For some reason I said sand to 2000 BEFORE heat treat, I meant before the etch. Sorry for the confusion!!
I typically sand up to a near mirror polish before heat treat anyway, but haven't tried a hamon like that yet. With the additional ridges that sanding at a lower grit leaves, it makes me wonder if there will actually be a difference on the hamon in sanding to a higher grit before heat treat, given that the high spots on the ridges will get hotter and quench faster due to their lower thickness. For context, I sand to such a high grit before heat treat and then use NuClayer No-Scale during heat treat. I can usually start sanding at 4-600 right after temper that way. NuClayer also makes a clay for hamons.
@@BurnsBlades I've contemplated that approach but haven't done it yet. I have some ATP anti scale that works quite well for that.
I’d much rather hand sand to 2000 before the quench than after. How high do you go before the quench?
@@dominicdwk I usually only go to 120 pre HT. You could go to 2000 pre HT and use anti-scale but then you’re probably back starting at 600 after.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thx for clearing that up. I going to go for some hamons on my next run. Im not a fan of of high grit sanding either. I appreciate the recommendation for the abrasive powder. Ill give that a try. You got a great channel. Thanks again for the videos.
Sunligth yellow overdrive
Thanks for watching
Hamons were definitely something that grew on me through Wootz as I’ve been pleased by the subtle auto hamons achieved in Wootz. Great looking blade btw!
They’ve grown on me recently, though I’m not a fan of the high grit sanding and polishing it requires. 😜. Thanks for watching, Spencer!
Thanks for sharing this info, very informative and great video. Why do you use Parks instead of water for the fast quenching steels, like W2? And would you get a different result on the Hamon if you used water as opposed to Parks? Thanks!
Pretty much nobody uses water to quench knife steel these days. It's too unpredictable and error prone. I doubt you'd get much a difference in the hamon. Maybe a little, but it's not worth the high failure rate you'd get by quenching in water. Parks50 is absolutely repeatable and dependable. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks OK good to know, thanks.
Another great TTT video Dennis. I really enjoy how you break it down without talking down in your explanation. That blade looks great. Thanks for sharing!
I’m glad it had some useful info. Thanks for watching, Stephen!
Great video! I have found that you can create a more predictable Hamon and preserves more of the wispy tendrils if you are careful to match the clay on both sides of the blade. Recently I started making a template to trace the line onto the blade to mirror both sides. My biggest issue has been, the Satinite I'm using, flaking off.
A template is an excellent idea! I may start to use that. I don’t know what’s in that hamon glop, but it really sticks. I’ve never had it come off. Thanks for watching.
Thanks a lot, comprehensive no bullshit explanation
Thanks for taking a look!
Do you do the normalizing prior to starting this process?
Do you mean applying the clay? It should be normalized, pre-HT bevels ground and thermo-cycled a few times. You are applying the clay before your austenizing/quenching cycle. Thanks for watching
With Japanese Swords made in Japan by Japanese smiths using traditional bloom steel, one thing you will notice is that the clay goes ALL THE WAY to the edge. In otherwords, the entire blade is clayed and none of the metal is exposed. The spine obviously has much thicker claying -- something like 1/4 of an inch or 1/6 of an inch whereas the edge is barely covered by a paper thin layer of clay. Depending on the Hamon style there may or may not be crisscrosses of thick clay fingers added. Not sure why they do that. Maybe it's because they quench exclusively in water and a bit of extra insulation for the entire sword reduces breakage during the quench. Or, maybe it helps with the induce wispy details which are favored in certain Hamon styles like Choji or Midare.
--
Another thing of note is that -- tradition and prestige aside -- Tatara bloom steel (aka. Jade Steel, Tamahagane) is favored over modern steels like 1095 or W2 is that it contains no manganese which is bad for Hamons. I think that ideally, the best steel for differential hardened sword or large knives will be a powdered metal steel with a little Vanadium and Niobium (less than 1% total) but zero chromium, zero manganese and zero sulfur. Unfortunately, nobody makes something like that and you are forced to choose between high impurity bloom steel or clean modern carbon steel with too much manganese and silicon.
Some interesting points there. I would guess the full clay would also be because of the water quench. Thanks for watching.
thank you for all the information. you are very kind. not all blacksmith willing to share their secrets.
I gather info from others, as we all do, I just share it out to people so we can all learn. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this and all of your very informative videos!
Thanks for checking it out, Greg!
Great video Dennis. Love the knife. Another thing some makers play with is the etching and polishing process. Nick wheeler does a great job on his hamons aswell. I believe using a lighter etching process like lemon juice can really change how your hamon shows up. You will see different subtlties come out with different processes. Definitely an easy rabbit hole to fall into.
If you want the more "silvery" hamon, then lemon juice is what you'd use. I wanted the dark line so ferric works for that. Thanks for watching, Bobby!
Hey Dennis, super vid as usual! Question: How are the O series steels at generating a hamon line? I ask because I was given a bunch of O1 tool steel. Thx man. See you in ATL in June.
found the answer out. No on the hamon. It's a tool steel and not good for hamons. Thx again for the vid!
Yup, as you found, it's all about the quench speed and O1 is a really slow quenching steel. No dice. Thanks for watching, Daniel.
love that blade style
The modern Bowie is certainly one of my favorites. 😉. Thanks for watching.
Hey Denis…great TTT! How is the hamone glop in regard to falling off in the quench and mucking up my quench oil?
I’ve never had it fall off during the quench. When it comes out of the oil, I just give it a couple taps and it falls off. 👍. Thanks for watching, Jason.
wow.. I thought I had seen it all.. then the hamon comes along.. great explanation..
Hamons are certainly a rabbit hole of their own, but can be very beautiful. Thanks for watching!
Do you need to mimic the pattern on both side of the blade with the clay?
Yes, that is ideal and something I didn't do on this blade but I'll do a followup video when I do this again. Best to make a template and then copy the pattern on the other side. That's how you get the wispy parts. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks and I look forward to watching the next one. Beautiful knife by the way!
Can you do a pattern welded steel video? Non-Damascus of course.
I’m done a ton of Damascus videos. Look back in the video library. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I said NOT Damascus, Pattern welded steel.
@@insanemakaioshin stop with a labels. I’ve done a ton of “pattern welded” or modern Damascus videos.
Kyle Royer keeps referring to sunshine cloth in his videos for polishing out post-etch Damascus... Have you tried it? Might be a easier, less messy method than loose grit.
Yeah I’ve tried sunshine cloth. It’s like a buffing cloth but not strong enough for hamons. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thank you back!
Do you use instant coffee in conjunction with ferric acid or just ferric acid?
Beautiful Bowie knife sir, best of luck 🍀.
No coffee on this, just ferric. Thanks for watching.
What about the tempering process? Does that still occur directly after quench? And then you ferric bathe the blade after the tempering cycle?
Yes, you run the same tempering process you normally would. This one got 2 rounds of two hours at 400F. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks for the response sir!
I realy Like the spacers between the guard and the handel😊i am going to to Something Like this in the next knife.
Thanks for checking it out. I am really trying to add more embelishments like this.
Great video, great hamon, great author! 👍👍👍💥💯
Thanks for watching!
Sand to 2k before heat treat, did i understand that correctly??
Sorry, I must correct myself. That was before you etch, not before HT. 🤦♂️. Sorry for the confusion.
Great tutorial
Thanks for tuning in, Aaron!
I do appreciate you acknowledge hamone aren’t just for those that can’t do Damascus. I’m one of them. I do want to at some point. I need a press.
It's another one of those knife making rabbit holes! 😜 So much about this craft to learn and perfect. Thanks for watching, Dominic!
I always liked the Hitachi-white #1 and Uddeholm 26C3 for hamons, mostly because W-series is usually very rare here and a lot of 1095 tended to... I can't say I hate it, but I've had a few batches that aren't worth the money and its already a difficult steel to get the most out of. Whereas the high quality of White-1 and 26C3 has always been immaculate. Essentially, most of the high carbon, low alloy steels will take a hamon. Its when they get a lot of manganese and particularly molybdenum for deeper hardening it tends to not work as well, most of the higher alloy tool steels also tend to have little to no chance of showing one. Though it might be differential hardened it will probably not show.
It’s the opposite here, it can be hard to find hitachi steels. Thanks for watching, Kris!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Just get the 26C3, its probably a bit better than the white-1 anyway in terms of what you can do with it and it should be more available now.
I sent some to Erick Rivers a bit over a year ago as his 'first go' for making a Hamon and it worked just fine for him.
Nice thing about it is that its really easy to get high edge stability at the 65HRC range and if you temper it down to 61HRC its really a very tough steel
Hey @TyrellKnifeworks , I have watched a lot of your videos but I can’t find an answer to my question which is, can you make a hamon on damascus steel? I am using 1095 and 15n20
The 1095 might give you a hamon, but why would you? The Damascus that’s soft won’t etch dark so it won’t look good. This is best for a mono steel. W2 gives the best hamon. Thanks for watching.
Cool knife. This looks so beautiful and the handle is great 👍
Thanks for taking a look!
Good morning Master. You said "special oil". For the 1095, which oil to use? I live in Brazil and use diesel fuel for the 1095. Can I continue to use it?
You should never use diesel oil for quenching. It is not good for your health and it’s a bad quenchant. You really want engineered quench oil. Here in the US it’s “Parks50” quench oil. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thank you so much!!!
Red clay and ash is a good combo.
Any refractory cement works just fine.
It simply has to insulate the spine (without breaking off in the quench) for 30 seconds.
Although, now you have me curious as to what the hamon gloop is.
incredible video , tanks a lot!
Thanks for watching!
Never heard of the pre quench 2000 grit polish. Thats a lot of work!!!
EDIT: Sorry, I screwed that up in the video, I meant before ETCHING go to 2000 grit. 🤦♂️
@@TyrellKnifeworks cool that makes more sense. You still have to take deacarb off post HT and that's a lot of steel in itself. I even did a Hamon on blanks w/o a bevel and then ground post heat treat, it still works although looks more mild.
I appreciate this video very much. I have one question: does anyone think it's possible to have a jagged section of the hamon line at the base of blade, and then transition to just a smooth straight line from halfway point of blade to the tip?
Sure, any pattern on the hamon is possible if you practice enough. Thanks for watching.
Awesome craftsmanship
Thanks for taking a look!
From experience don’t get the main body of clay to close to the cutting edge or on to thick. I did a katana a while back. 1080 steel, satanite clay, 130*f brine quench, 375*F temper. The edge is 63+ hrc. (According to files) It pretty much skates a 65hrc. The spine is soft as expected. I stopped checking after a 50. The problem is that it will bend and stay bent. It will not spring back. There’s not enough hardened steel in it to make flex back to its original shape. Hard lesson learned.
Yup, that is certainly a good point, you need enough hardened steel to made an overall strong blade. Thanks for watching, Erik.
Grwat video, thanks for the links. David Lisch also has a great video on Hamons through the Northwest Blacksmiths Association.
Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Thanks for all your help in this process!
I truly appreciate the information. I’ve got one in the tempering oven right now following all your information. I was using the Hamon 1800.
I was following your recommendations from your most recent video. I didn’t do it interrupted quench though the faster the better I’ll take the risk was using parks 50.
As soon as I get it, polished up a little bit, I’ll post a one minute or so video mentioning you, of course
I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
The longitudinal lines in the hamon aren’t necessarily from grinding or sanding, I can see them in blades that have only been ground vertically so in those cases it would have to be something else. I rarely grind above 120 before hardening and a common issue I see people having with hamons is trying to do too much before hardening and not enough grinding afterwards to remove the decarb.
I actually corrected that in the pinned comment, I made a mistake in the video I meant to sand to 2000 before ETCH, not HT. Grind lines are going to be in the other direction so if it were caused from grinding you'd see them vertically instead of horizontally, but your sanding lines are typically horizontal. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I’ve seen those lines in blades that have had no hand sanding horizontally was what I was trying to say.
@@edgeknifeworks I'm not sure if its the grain direction in the steel then. 🤷♂
I’m in my 30s but I have a child like fascination and wonderment when watching a blacksmith forge a blade.
We all do! At least all the guys I know that forge now had that fascination. Thanks for watching.
I would argue that 26c3 is best for hamon personally
Yeah a couple have said that. I’ve never used it, so I guess I would say W2 is the best I’VE used. Thanks for watching, Michael.
Funny you said a straight line is boring. Suga-ha hamons are my favorite. (Also, notoriously difficult to do, correctly.)
Though, literally everyone says I have boring tastes, soooo...
😂🤣🤣😂
To each their own, I personally find a straight hamon boring and would much rather have a lot of action in it. Thanks for watching.
That blade looks like an Elven Bowie, quite nice indeed.
Thanks for taking a look! I’m actually working on another very similar to this one right now. 😉
gracias maestro.!!! 👏👏👏👏
¡Gracias por ver!
You didn't explain WHY the hamon appears, which is what a lot of people don't understand. The harder martensite at the edge polishes differently because it's harder. If you look closely at old nihonto, the hamon often literally sticks out from being so burnished. With that understanding you can plan your edge polish accordingly. For the transition zone, many Japanese sword polishers make the microscratches in the transition go in different directions so they catch the light at varied angles.
Thanks for the addition and for watching.
If you put this knife between two other blades, does that mean you have a hamon sandwich?
Stay tuned for more terrible jokes
😬. Keep your day job. 🤣. Thanks for watching, Isaac!
Just a minor note on Japanese grammar: there is no "s" to indicate plural in Japanese. The plural of "hamon" is "hamon." Ditto for "katana." If you continue to use "katanas" and "hamons," that's your choice, and if anyone else criticizes, just say, "I know." BTW, thanks for the helpful and detailed instruction.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching.
Wow realy nice
So, I can use this to fight my turned-into vampire brother and slice his head in half, right?
Yes, certainly. Or your werewolf sister. 😜. Thanks for watching!
I think you covered the topic nicely. One-stop shopping for homon information.
Thanks for watching, Bryson!
So can you give me the simpler way then sanding to 1500-2000 finish. 😆 Oh the joys of making knives.
LOL I absolutely hate handsanding. I'm about to order a disk sander to try and cut my time down
@@richardbranton190 that should work good but will probably still have to hand sand some.
@@Hopeknives13 I have to do a lot of hand sanding because my grinding sucks so bad. It takes me about 2 hours to sand and my fingers can't take it
@@richardbranton190 That’s for sure.
Ha, if you want a good end product you gotta put in the work. 😉
Awesome!
Thanks for watching, Willard!
That's beautiful
Thanks for taking a look!
@@TyrellKnifeworks my pleasure. I love your work
СПАСИБО!
Спасибо за просмотр!
26c3 steel can also make a good hamon.
I’ve never used that one personally. As good as W2 for a hamon?
@@TyrellKnifeworks I haven't personally used it either but I've read about it and Alpha Knife Supply says its excelent for hamons. they say: "The composition of 26C3 is similar to Hitachi White steel. The steel is very clean with few alloying elements. The high carbon content helps the steel get very hard. The first knife we made tested just under HRC 68. This alloy is an excellent choice for knifemakers who want to make knives with a hamon."
Its 1.25% carbon and .38% mang.
@@checoleman8877 Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try. 👍🏻
The characteristics of Japanese swords are that the blade with the hamon is very hard and the back is flexible.
Yeah, I said that in the video. Thanks for watching
Damn. Looked fine enough at 10:38.
Thanks for taking a look!
Holy shit, is that a jojo reference
I’m not sure what you’re referring to.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Its a meme from a show called JoJo's bizarre adventure, the show is popular for doing references to real events,places and person, so people say holy shit it's a Jojo reference when they the things that are referenced in the show in real life inthe the show the protagonist uses powers of the sun called hamon through breathing and concentration and when I saw the word hamon in your title i couldn't help myself and i typed it, anyway love you work brother
Dang, the more I watch the more I want a forge...
But when I see all the tooling needed to do some advanced stuff I remember my financial situation.... 😫 🤬
You don't really need all the fancy tooling though. Watch my Beginner Series playlist, that will help you get started with minimal investment. Thanks for watching, Dan.
🇦🇬
Ham……..on.
Ham…….on.
Ham……on.
Ham…..on.
Ham….on.
Ham…on.
Ham..on.
Ham.on.
Hamon. HAMON!
🙇🏾♂️
haha, thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks
🇦🇬
Hahamon! Gesundheit! 🤣. Keep up the great work 👍🏾.
🙇🏾♂️
I find the easiest way to get good ham on my blade is to carve up some Jamón ibérico (yes, I know this joke is terrible, I will see myself out...)
Yeah, that one was pretty weak. 😜. Thanks for watching
Класс.
Спасибо за просмотр
@@TyrellKnifeworks Стараюсь не пропускать.
Hamone? Hamoan? Hamown? HamON!! When you have a pizza do you put Ham ‘own’ it? 😂
Thanks for watching
Is
boring line
Thanks for watching