Great video! Thanks for the heads-up on those two flat countersunk screws next to the venturi inside the choke horn. Locating those screws kept me frustrated for a couple minutes when doing this job the first time on my own. Also, when removing the air horn, make sure that all four of the press-fit feed tubes stay in place. The tubes will sometimes fall into the fuel bowl when removing the air horn. If you’re not looking for them it may not be obvious that one (or more) is missing. A small Torx T8 can be used to detach the secondary metering rods holder.
I have an '83 Olds Toronado with the 5.0. After adjusting the TPS and dwell, I get a Check Engine light at 70 MPH and above, which goes out in 3 seconds if I back off the gas. Code 45- Rich Mixture. It never comes on below 70 MPH. All ignition parts are new or good, and the timing is correct. New O2 sensor. The car runs great. I am going to check the float level based on your instructions here and see if that takes care of it. Will advise.
I'd be willing to bet you have a mis- adjusted mixture control solenoid. A code 45 at highway speeds that goes away after taking your foot off the gas is a classic symptom.
Setting the mixer was not a problem for me. I had the tool and then made my own. My problem was the TPS. For all the time I spent on this I should buy the tools.
*You know you can (actually must) adjust the lean/rich stop screws for the the mixture control solenoid paddle by just drilling a small hole into that plug on the air horn directly above it and popping it out right? The rich stop screw is the round looking thing on the underside of the air horn just above the paddle. Check your specific model for the exact specification but typically the MCS paddle should only travel 4/32” so both the lean and rich stop screws are adjusted at the same time with a ratio of 2:1 So if you turn the lean stop screw 1/2 turn, the rich stop screw should get 1/4 turn (lean stop screw should not be turned more than 1/2 turn on the car. If you find that it requires more adjustment, you will have to go back into the carb and locate the reason.) Also, if you have the air horn off, it’s a lot easier to get back on if you back the TPS screw all the way out before reinstalling the air horn*
Hi! Thank you for all your videos. You helped me a lot to rebuild a quadrajet and make it working almost perfectly. I have a question. When it's also slightly cold outside, the car starts after a while, runs fat rich low rpm for the first 30-60 seconds (like it does not "engage" immediately the fast idle) and makes a lot of smoke, fouling my spark plugs (first warm up minute sounds like it's cammed....). Then the fast idle kick in and when I reach the temp it's all ok. What can I do for this? (Rebuilt carb, dwell ok, mixture ok, new spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap and sensors). Thanks!
I have a Ca. Emissions 1986 C10 with a 5.0l I believe it has a dual capacity accelerator pump solenoid. There are an extra 2 wires coming off the side of the gray solenoid that are supposed to go to a thermal switch for my luck it’s obsolete. My question is if I can use a regular blue solenoid and not use the thermal switch.
Will that also work without both electric systems unplugged or disconnected.....and installed on a Chevy truck with a electric choke and a TPS...bracket...both without the computer system connections
@@rporestorations No I don't think so. i think it is something with lack of fuel. Could it be caused by not properly working needle valve. May be valve is stacking or something?
It could. I would check to make sure the float is working properly and set at the proper height. After that, work backwards and check the filter for clogs, then look at the fuel pump and lines.
Hello, my qjet has been working well since 2006. I still have my original 305 with only 66k miles. Recently, I have started to have high idle issues after it warms up, it will not kick down. How do I correct this? It hangs at around 1100 rpm in park, it will drop to 850-900 in drive. But once I shift back to park it shoots back up to 1100. Any advice would be appreciated!
Lightly bottom out both screws, then turn them out 3 1/2 turns. That's the bench setting. It will allow the car to start and idle while you set them. I'd also recommend watching this: ua-cam.com/video/v_00OkK8BAg/v-deo.htmlsi=EoSJCqk00sVcutJS
I’m having problems with my 85 Buick Regal. V6. When I hit the gas and step on the break really quick car wants to almost die out. And also when it’s in park or neutral it runs good but when I put it in gear it sputters and runs real poorly!! Any suggestions on why I’m having this problem?!?
Based on what you're saying, you could have several issues. I would start with a check of the basics (timing, wiring, ect). Also, make it a point to check all the vacuum hoses for leaks. That could be the reason why it runs fine in neutral, but doesn't like to idle properly under load.
Hi , I was hoping you could help me . I have a 1987 cadillac brougham with the 5.0 olds and have the tps code so I changed it and I cannot get the voltage to change when adjusting the screw . Any suggestions sir ?
The screw has quite a lot of slack in it. It might require a lot of turns before you get enough tension to change the voltage. What kind of readings are you getting now?
I have the same carburetor in my 1987 Chevrolet El Camino, in the morning it starts very well and the car runs very well, the problem is that it smells a lot of gasoline and smokes a lot, the gases that come out of the muffler are exaggeratedly horrible, but it accelerates Very good, what could it be?
Is there a way to measure to see if the MCS is off before taking the air horn off? It would save a lot of unnecessary work if the setting is already correct- if it ain't broke don't fix it.
So I’m trying to adjust my TPS and the issue is that I have to set my low voltage to .50 when I set it and start up the truck and accelerate and turn the truck off and recheck my TPS voltage it’s either up or down to .30 or .70 what can be the issue please help
I would strongly recommend putting blue lock tight on the threads when you adjust the TPS. Fully remove the adjustment screw and place a drop or two on the threads. Adjust to the correct voltage, and let the truck sit overnight before starting it.
Great vid! Looking forward to part 2!
Your quadrajet videos have been insanely helpful, thank you so much
You're welcome. If you have any questions, please ask.
Great video! Thanks for the heads-up on those two flat countersunk screws next to the venturi inside the choke horn. Locating those screws kept me frustrated for a couple minutes when doing this job the first time on my own.
Also, when removing the air horn, make sure that all four of the press-fit feed tubes stay in place. The tubes will sometimes fall into the fuel bowl when removing the air horn. If you’re not looking for them it may not be obvious that one (or more) is missing.
A small Torx T8 can be used to detach the secondary metering rods holder.
Thanks, Mark! I forgot to mention the tubes.
I have an '83 Olds Toronado with the 5.0. After adjusting the TPS and dwell, I get a Check Engine light at 70 MPH and above, which goes out in 3 seconds if I back off the gas. Code 45- Rich Mixture. It never comes on below 70 MPH. All ignition parts are new or good, and the timing is correct. New O2 sensor. The car runs great.
I am going to check the float level based on your instructions here and see if that takes care of it. Will advise.
I'd be willing to bet you have a mis- adjusted mixture control solenoid. A code 45 at highway speeds that goes away after taking your foot off the gas is a classic symptom.
Setting the mixer was not a problem for me. I had the tool and then made my own. My problem was the TPS. For all the time I spent on this I should buy the tools.
*You know you can (actually must) adjust the lean/rich stop screws for the the mixture control solenoid paddle by just drilling a small hole into that plug on the air horn directly above it and popping it out right? The rich stop screw is the round looking thing on the underside of the air horn just above the paddle. Check your specific model for the exact specification but typically the MCS paddle should only travel 4/32” so both the lean and rich stop screws are adjusted at the same time with a ratio of 2:1 So if you turn the lean stop screw 1/2 turn, the rich stop screw should get 1/4 turn (lean stop screw should not be turned more than 1/2 turn on the car. If you find that it requires more adjustment, you will have to go back into the carb and locate the reason.) Also, if you have the air horn off, it’s a lot easier to get back on if you back the TPS screw all the way out before reinstalling the air horn*
Hi! Thank you for all your videos. You helped me a lot to rebuild a quadrajet and make it working almost perfectly. I have a question. When it's also slightly cold outside, the car starts after a while, runs fat rich low rpm for the first 30-60 seconds (like it does not "engage" immediately the fast idle) and makes a lot of smoke, fouling my spark plugs (first warm up minute sounds like it's cammed....). Then the fast idle kick in and when I reach the temp it's all ok. What can I do for this? (Rebuilt carb, dwell ok, mixture ok, new spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap and sensors). Thanks!
Can you tell me the scan tool which you used? Thank you. Great videos😊
In this video, I'm using the AutoXray EZscan 6000. The company is no longer around, but you can still find them on Ebay every now and then.
I have a Ca. Emissions 1986 C10 with a 5.0l I believe it has a dual capacity accelerator pump solenoid. There are an extra 2 wires coming off the side of the gray solenoid that are supposed to go to a thermal switch for my luck it’s obsolete. My question is if I can use a regular blue solenoid and not use the thermal switch.
Will that also work without both electric systems unplugged or disconnected.....and installed on a Chevy truck with a electric choke and a TPS...bracket...both without the computer system connections
This will work on any vehicle with an electronic quadrajet. The procedure is the same.
Hi great channel :) I have Olds Cutlass Supreme 1987 and I think I have problems with needle valve in my carburator
Flooding?
@@rporestorations No I don't think so. i think it is something with lack of fuel. Could it be caused by not properly working needle valve. May be valve is stacking or something?
It could. I would check to make sure the float is working properly and set at the proper height. After that, work backwards and check the filter for clogs, then look at the fuel pump and lines.
Hello, my qjet has been working well since 2006. I still have my original 305 with only 66k miles. Recently, I have started to have high idle issues after it warms up, it will not kick down. How do I correct this? It hangs at around 1100 rpm in park, it will drop to 850-900 in drive. But once I shift back to park it shoots back up to 1100. Any advice would be appreciated!
0:13 can you say where you get your CCC Quadrajet parts?
How many turns out should the two mixture screws be set, before refining the adjustments?
Lightly bottom out both screws, then turn them out 3 1/2 turns. That's the bench setting. It will allow the car to start and idle while you set them. I'd also recommend watching this:
ua-cam.com/video/v_00OkK8BAg/v-deo.htmlsi=EoSJCqk00sVcutJS
What scan tool are you using to read your throttle position sensor voltage?
The one from this video is an Actron EZ scan 6000.
@rporestorations Thank You Very Much, Trying to get my cutlass dialed in,
I’m having problems with my 85 Buick Regal. V6. When I hit the gas and step on the break really quick car wants to almost die out. And also when it’s in park or neutral it runs good but when I put it in gear it sputters and runs real poorly!! Any suggestions on why I’m having this problem?!?
Based on what you're saying, you could have several issues. I would start with a check of the basics (timing, wiring, ect). Also, make it a point to check all the vacuum hoses for leaks. That could be the reason why it runs fine in neutral, but doesn't like to idle properly under load.
is the tps optional ? or can it be added to any quadrajet i have one but all the new ones i see for sale dont have one
It's not optional, but they were only used on cars from 1981 and up.
@rporestorations is it possible to just not use it or is it necessary 🤔
Do you have one that has been rebuilt by you and it’s for sale. I need one and I will buy it.
No. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to do rebuilds.
Hi , I was hoping you could help me . I have a 1987 cadillac brougham with the 5.0 olds and have the tps code so I changed it and I cannot get the voltage to change when adjusting the screw . Any suggestions sir ?
The screw has quite a lot of slack in it. It might require a lot of turns before you get enough tension to change the voltage. What kind of readings are you getting now?
I have the same carburetor in my 1987 Chevrolet El Camino, in the morning it starts very well and the car runs very well, the problem is that it smells a lot of gasoline and smokes a lot, the gases that come out of the muffler are exaggeratedly horrible, but it accelerates Very good, what could it be?
It sounds like the carburetor may be running very rich.
I can tell you this I would start out at the throttle plate if it was wore out forget about adjusting it
Is there a way to measure to see if the MCS is off before taking the air horn off? It would save a lot of unnecessary work if the setting is already correct- if it ain't broke don't fix it.
I totally agree, but there really isn't another way.
For some reason I'm hearing clicking noises when the car is off what causes this problem how do I fix it
Sounds like you might have a bad relay somewhere.
Hi I have same eleicterc q jet carb would you rebuild it to me
Unfortunately, I have too many projects going on right now. Sorry.
Not like my Legos but I'm learning to be patient.
So I’m trying to adjust my TPS and the issue is that I have to set my low voltage to .50 when I set it and start up the truck and accelerate and turn the truck off and recheck my TPS voltage it’s either up or down to .30 or .70 what can be the issue please help
I would strongly recommend putting blue lock tight on the threads when you adjust the TPS. Fully remove the adjustment screw and place a drop or two on the threads. Adjust to the correct voltage, and let the truck sit overnight before starting it.
@@rporestorations i added blue thread blue thread lock on it but moved it rite away ill adjust and let it dry good