That takes me back to the mid late 90s for sure lol. IMO, the hardest GM engine to get through the IM240 emissions test was the 307 Y olds mill. 1 thing I didn't hear you mention is that it is imperative that the car be in closed loop fuel control while making these adjustments, with a good o2 sensor. That's why I always use(d) a scan tool such as a Tech 1 or 2, or the ol Snapper Red Brick. I want to see eng temp, tps volts, o2 switching, and I can see dwell as well as block learn and integrator. Anyhow, I'm glad you're sharing this stuff. It is a lost art!
I did talk about it around 7:17, but you're absolutely right. If it's not in closed loop, the dwell won't vary and it will stay fixed at a certain reading. I like to use a Tech1A, too, but not many people have them, so I tried to keep it simple. And yeah, I always check the TPS voltage ahead of time. I might do a future video on the block learn and that stuff later down the road, as well. Thanks for the feedback. If you have any tips, Id love to hear them. Glad I could bring you back to the 90's!
Excellent video. Tuning the dwell made a huge difference in making smooth acceleration in my 87. Mine was a ways off, too high. Also cured a pesky hesitation between 1500 and 2000 rpm.
Great info, but... I have a 1986 Pontiac Grand Prix 305 Quadrajet. The question I have I don't have any emissions on the car anymore but I still have the electronic carb and electronic distributor. Can I still use the carb and distributor even though I don't have any emission stuff? Seems to be running rich, do I still need to adjust mixture screws or should I just get rid of the electronic and go manual?
I have the same exact problem with my 1987 Firebird with the 305. Smog pump deleted. Seems to be running rich, already tore down Rochester and set the solenoid and floats to factory spec. When I adjust the mixture screws I get no change at all. Whether I bottom them out or back them off 6 turns. I don't have a dwell meter and I have not messed with the idle air bleed valve it's still capped off. But I did put a timing light on and it's running 0° at idle but starts retarding the timing as soon as I'm over 1500 RPM. I'm going to bypass the computer and put in a mechanical HEI ignition system. If yours has the computer and your service engine light is on, I'm guessing that your computer is pulling timing to causing it to burn rich and dump soot out the tailpipe like mine.
Thanks for a more detailed video. But i think you only mention it and don't actually show that you jump out the 1 and 2 terminals on the computer port in the car. So do you or don't you to set the dwell?
No. You don't jump the terminals on the ALDL (computer terminal) connector. Jumping the diagnostic terminals would put the motor into "Field Service" mode. This would only be done when setting base timing and for a few other reasons when trying to diagnose a problem. When setting the mixture, you want the motor running as it would be while you're driving.
Is 30 on the dwell meter specific to the engine or electronic carb? I have a 305 with the electronic carb would I still shoot for 30 but on the v-8 scale? Thanks for another informative video.
No. The 30° dwell meter reading is universal for all Rochester Dualjet and Quadrajet carburetors. Also, when setting the mixture, we always use the 6 cylinder scale, whether it's a 231, 305, 307, or 350 cubic inch motor. This is because the carburetor works on a 60 hertz cycle. (The solenoid cycles 60 times per second). Hope this helps!
please help ......so im trying to set my dwell on my 86 GMC sierra 5.0 with electric carb. i purchased a dwell meter and connected the wire to a green wire on the firewall of the truck and adjusted just like you did and had no luck i adjusted with small turn and the dwell did no change what am i doing wrong or what should i do first please help
They're getting difficult to find, but they do come up on Ebay from time to time. The company that made them is named Kent Moore. They made a lot of tools for GM service departments. They also were included in their "Carburetor Float Kit"
Hi recently had my electronic quadrajet rebuilt and it is idling very high and running rich, other than the idle screws what do I need to adjust to have it idle lower?
There could be a couple of causes. Is the fast idle cam disengaging when you tap the gas? And have you turned the idle speed control screw out? Check out the 2nd half of this video. It concerns setting the idle speed. ua-cam.com/video/o_LEpkWQbk4/v-deo.htmlsi=uafHDGXKDpWYN471
Hey man I have that same car 1987 Oldsmobile v-6 when I turn it on and it’s on cold idle it’s in perfect condition one’s it warms up and u put it on drive it has no power at all turns off can u please tell me how to fix it.
@@rporestorationsyes thank you I replaced cables spark plugs and distributor cap what happened was that I had one of the spark plugs cable disconnected ha.
Do you have a Facebook or some way I can contact you? I have a 1980 sunbird with the c-4 ECM - I've got most figured out but trying to find someone who knows about the early computer systems
@@rporestorations thanks but I googled it later on and discovered mine has a plated riveted over it..guess will just count on it being at factory setting
I'm a little confused by your comment. The Quadrajet is set on the 6 cylinder scale of the dwell meter, doesn't matter what size engine its attached to.
That takes me back to the mid late 90s for sure lol. IMO, the hardest GM engine to get through the IM240 emissions test was the 307 Y olds mill. 1 thing I didn't hear you mention is that it is imperative that the car be in closed loop fuel control while making these adjustments, with a good o2 sensor. That's why I always use(d) a scan tool such as a Tech 1 or 2, or the ol Snapper Red Brick. I want to see eng temp, tps volts, o2 switching, and I can see dwell as well as block learn and integrator. Anyhow, I'm glad you're sharing this stuff. It is a lost art!
I did talk about it around 7:17, but you're absolutely right. If it's not in closed loop, the dwell won't vary and it will stay fixed at a certain reading. I like to use a Tech1A, too, but not many people have them, so I tried to keep it simple. And yeah, I always check the TPS voltage ahead of time. I might do a future video on the block learn and that stuff later down the road, as well. Thanks for the feedback. If you have any tips, Id love to hear them. Glad I could bring you back to the 90's!
Excellent video. Tuning the dwell made a huge difference in making smooth acceleration in my 87. Mine was a ways off, too high. Also cured a pesky hesitation between 1500 and 2000 rpm.
I like your videos on early GM CCC system. It is an esoteric knowledge.
Thanks that was a great big help good job bro....
Great info, but... I have a 1986 Pontiac Grand Prix 305 Quadrajet. The question I have I don't have any emissions on the car anymore but I still have the electronic carb and electronic distributor. Can I still use the carb and distributor even though I don't have any emission stuff? Seems to be running rich, do I still need to adjust mixture screws or should I just get rid of the electronic and go manual?
I have the same exact problem with my 1987 Firebird with the 305. Smog pump deleted. Seems to be running rich, already tore down Rochester and set the solenoid and floats to factory spec. When I adjust the mixture screws I get no change at all. Whether I bottom them out or back them off 6 turns. I don't have a dwell meter and I have not messed with the idle air bleed valve it's still capped off. But I did put a timing light on and it's running 0° at idle but starts retarding the timing as soon as I'm over 1500 RPM. I'm going to bypass the computer and put in a mechanical HEI ignition system. If yours has the computer and your service engine light is on, I'm guessing that your computer is pulling timing to causing it to burn rich and dump soot out the tailpipe like mine.
Thanks for a more detailed video. But i think you only mention it and don't actually show that you jump out the 1 and 2 terminals on the computer port in the car. So do you or don't you to set the dwell?
No. You don't jump the terminals on the ALDL (computer terminal) connector. Jumping the diagnostic terminals would put the motor into "Field Service" mode. This would only be done when setting base timing and for a few other reasons when trying to diagnose a problem. When setting the mixture, you want the motor running as it would be while you're driving.
When adjusting the mixture control screw, do you adjust the driver side first then the passenger or do you adjust both together?
You have to adjust them both together at the same time. The carburetor should have a balanced mixture on both sides.
@@rporestorations do I close the screws or open them
Lightly close them. Then open them 3 1/2 turns. That's a base setting. Then make the adjustment as needed
Is 30 on the dwell meter specific to the engine or electronic carb? I have a 305 with the electronic carb would I still shoot for 30 but on the v-8 scale?
Thanks for another informative video.
No. The 30° dwell meter reading is universal for all Rochester Dualjet and Quadrajet carburetors. Also, when setting the mixture, we always use the 6 cylinder scale, whether it's a 231, 305, 307, or 350 cubic inch motor. This is because the carburetor works on a 60 hertz cycle. (The solenoid cycles 60 times per second). Hope this helps!
please help ......so im trying to set my dwell on my 86 GMC sierra 5.0 with electric carb. i purchased a dwell meter and connected the wire to a green wire on the firewall of the truck and adjusted just like you did and had no luck i adjusted with small turn and the dwell did no change what am i doing wrong or what should i do first please help
Where can I find the air bleeder valve gauge tool
They're getting difficult to find, but they do come up on Ebay from time to time. The company that made them is named Kent Moore. They made a lot of tools for GM service departments. They also were included in their "Carburetor Float Kit"
Hi recently had my electronic quadrajet rebuilt and it is idling very high and running rich, other than the idle screws what do I need to adjust to have it idle lower?
Sorry I meant mixture screws not idle screws
There could be a couple of causes. Is the fast idle cam disengaging when you tap the gas? And have you turned the idle speed control screw out? Check out the 2nd half of this video. It concerns setting the idle speed.
ua-cam.com/video/o_LEpkWQbk4/v-deo.htmlsi=uafHDGXKDpWYN471
@@jaredrosenberger3583Bet you have loose throttle shaft’s.
Is a full turn 180 or 360 degrees ?
A full turn is 360°
Hey man I have that same car 1987 Oldsmobile v-6 when I turn it on and it’s on cold idle it’s in perfect condition one’s it warms up and u put it on drive it has no power at all turns off can u please tell me how to fix it.
It could be several things. Will It idle at all when warmed up? Are you able to keep it going by giving it some gas?
@@rporestorationsyes thank you I replaced cables spark plugs and distributor cap what happened was that I had one of the spark plugs cable disconnected ha.
Do you have a Facebook or some way I can contact you? I have a 1980 sunbird with the c-4 ECM - I've got most figured out but trying to find someone who knows about the early computer systems
There's an email address on the page info section. It might take me a little while to get back to you, but I'll definitely try.
🥝✔️🇺🇸
Ok..but where on the carb is the idle air bleed?..all I noticed was your screwdriver diving in
ua-cam.com/video/LX4h6YH_KhY/v-deo.htmlsi=w8cbhwGIqB1Ry4Qb
There's a good view at the 5:00 minute mark in thsi video.
@@rporestorations thanks but I googled it later on and discovered mine has a plated riveted over it..guess will just count on it being at factory setting
30° on the 8 cylinder scale.Should be on the six cylinder scale so you're still not there
I'm a little confused by your comment. The Quadrajet is set on the 6 cylinder scale of the dwell meter, doesn't matter what size engine its attached to.