This happened to me with my 2015 Forester. I was so afraid I was going to be stuck in the middle of the night in another town because this happened to me two hours from home! I was able to get home safely and ordered the new part online for $15 right away. And it took only one minute to install!! It was so easy with this step by step video. You explained it clearly and concisely. I'm a woman in my 30s who knows little about cars but when I can follow along and do it myself and understand how and why things work, it gives me a lot of confidence. Thanks for the video!
God bless you! just saved me a weekend of worry. Taking my car in for a recall appointment. It was stuck in the garage. These UA-cam videos have saved me many ulcers and many dollars over the years!
No problem Mark. Make sure to have the dealer check to see if any other open recalls apply for your vehicle as well. Get those things fixed for free while you can.
Thank you so much. I like the fact that you did not take a half hour to tell how smart you are, you just explained every thing step by step, so easy to under stand. You are not only smart but wise .
Saved my wife and I from calling someone to help us jump. Her car was stuck in park dead in front of the garage blocking me from turning around. Great vid!
Thank you. Your video saved me $300+ in proposed electrical work by an auto shop, and it would not have solved the problem. Good diagnostics is everything.
Knew this trick, but wasn’t working for me (after going awhile with out needing to use it)-with the screwdriver I had normally used for some reason. Your tip about length was really helpful.
Thank you for your detailed descriptive step-by-step video. I had the same problem on my 2013 Crosstrek. Luckily the shifter wasn't fully stuck in Parking. The lights for ABS, Traction and Hill assist were coming on after about 10 minutes driving, not at the very beginning. After about 10 days with this going on and off I got a new sensor, replaced, and no more issues. Thanks a lot.
Awesome video. Many thanks to people like you that actually take the time to guide us in order to save $300++ in bull charges from auto shops. Subaru, Forester 2015. Same problem. It did happen every once in a while. 3 lights ON. Not consistent with anything. One time, it locked my gear box just like on the video. After turning the engine on/off several times, it actually unlocked it and the 3 lights went off. The engine key is NOT deep enough to unlock the shifter so you better have something long and narrow to use. I purchased the switch from ebay for $14.50. Although it was advertised as OEM Subaru part, what came had a "NISSAN" logo stamp, just like it shows on the video, on the brown part at 6:50. To my surprise, the switch I removed from my car was IDENTICAL TO THE ONE I PURCHASED. Blue/brown, NOT CREAM/BROWN. It even had the "NISSAN" stamp on it too!!! But it did not have the greenish paint mark shown at 4:43. The new part did! I replaced it. It takes less than 5 minutes and it only requires a screwdriver. So far so good. I will update if i see any issues.This is my husband writing this review
Awesome. I’m glad the video helped. Nissan make many electronic parts for other manufacturers. The Subaru dealer I buy parts from is combined with a Nissan dealership. Thanks for stopping by and thanks for the detailed comment about your Subaru.
Which 3 lights came on when you had this issue? Do you remember if the steering wheel was hard to move? My daughter has a 2013 Outback and twice she has experienced this weird mode.
Your video super helped me! And thanks for explaining about inserting a pen (I used the flat end of a colored pencil without an eraser I luckily had in car) tempted to fix it myself all the way but computer is being feisty so will go into Subaru dealer to reset
I was so excited when I seen this video and how easy it was and I actually ran into quite a few people and they had no idea so thank you so much I bought the part haven't had time to put it in maybe tomorrow I will send a message after that you explained everything perfectly thank Go UA-cam😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
oh-my-God! i hVe been wondering how the hell can i use my car this week because my brake light switch doesnt work anymore. Thank u very much!!!! ☺️☺️. but on my car,there is just a shift-release slot. now i know what that is for 😂
Thank you very much for this video! I have a similar problem with my 2012 Tribeca but in my case the shifter is stuck in sport mode neutral. I’ve tried this technique but it still won’t go back to normal mode and can’t remove the key. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thank you!
Interesting to see the mention of silicone as a cause of poor contact in that TSB. I use dielectric grease on connectors to exclude water and reduce corrosion, though I often wonder about whether the silicone in dielectric grease might contribute to poor contact.
Our 2006 Subaru Impreza (124,000 miles) is stuck in Park. It starts and runs normally, and the stick shift moves, but the dashboard display always indicates P no matter what gear the stick shift is in. The car does not go forward or backward. Initially the brake pedal was very hard to depress. Now, after fiddling with the stick shift, it seems normal. Expensive code reader finds no stored or pending DTCs. There are no check engine/trouble lights lit on the dashboard. Pressing the emergency override switch next to the stick shift makes no difference. Unsnapped all of the plastic from around the shift stick to make sure I was pressing the switch all the way down - no difference. Even though the brake lights seemed to work normally when the pedal was depressed, I changed the stop light switch anyway - no difference. Brake lights still come on when the pedal is depressed. Dashboard still indicates P when the shifter is moved. Car still will not go forward or backward. Right now, whenever the stick shift is moved into Park, a loud click comes from the dashboard. That never happened before. Prior to getting stuck at work, the brakes worked normally, the car was quiet and there was no reason to suspect anything was about to go wrong. Have you ever seen this before? Thank you.
It’s possible that the shift cable broke or a plastic component in the shifter broke. Might need to look underneath while someone moves the shifter and see if the shift cable and lever is moving.
Thanks. I was thinking that too. A disconnected cable is the only thing that makes sense but countless others say it's either the stop light switch and/or the shift interlock. Hopefully, I'll find out which it is this weekend...@@ThePracticalMechanic
my brake lights off and the shift stuck in park. I changed two fuses. they burnt. Then I changed braked light switch, I could move shifter. after 20m drive, it stuck again and brake light off. what I should do next?
What if the brake light switch DOES work? I have a 2004 outback that we have to hit the override button to shift out of park. We've confirmed the brake lights work when depressing the pedal.
👏👏👏 Thank you! You even put up the image of the service bulletin with the part number!!! I have a 2012 Impreza and it looks like I have this exact issue. Brake lights work fine after I do the override with a screwdriver and get it in R, N, or D. I recently had all my brakes changed (expensive $$$) and I wonder if the very thing they mentioned in the bulletin about someone using a silicone lubricant around the area of the BLS could have caused that non-conductive coating build-up. The fix you did seems like something I could reasonably do on my own. If I can locate the correct part, would you recommend me giving it a go on my own? Or is it something that carries a bit of risk for a non-professional? Again, THANK YOU!
Also, I purchased the car used from a Honda dealership, so not sure if they would carry the part or if I'd have to check with my local Subaru dealership. If there's a service bulletin, does this mean I could possibly get it fixed for free? Not quite sure how that works. I've taken it to Honda for service recalls before, but I'm not sure if there's a difference between a recall and a "service bulletin".
I would call t he Subaru dealer and see if they can help you out. The part should be purchased from Subaru if you are going to do the job your self. The process is relatively easy although if the sensor isn’t install correctly you may have additional issues.
I am having similar issue but the key gets stuck on and will not turn all the way back to lock to remove it. I figured out disconnecting battery will allow me to move the key to lovk and remove it but will this solution resolve that also or is it a different solenoid all together?
This is an issue with the park position micro switch in the shifter. I have had numerous cars come in this way but haven’t had time to film one. Subaru used to sell the complete shifter but now they have a service kit to replace the micro switch on some models. Basically the switch is to confirm your in park before they car can turn all the way off.
My problem: the switch is turned around. So I can't depressed the release button. I thought of turning the piece counter clockwise to release it so I could rotate it to access the release button, but it won't budge. Does the top part have to be done first before it can be pulled out??
Thanks for details! Apparently this has risen to the level of a formal recall -- I got the notice for my wife's 2016 Crosstrek just the other day. Her car has the blue switch, but WITHOUT the 'green dot'. Any idea whether or not that is a problem switch or if it's ok? I detest taking the car to the dealer for anything - seems like it always comes back with something wrong/damage that wasn't there before I took it in. I removed the switch -- it has "Nissan" logo on it. And the following number/letter designation -- PA66 GF33K NILES.
The main difference I remember is the dot on the brake light switch. It’s not to invasive so the dealer shouldn’t do any damage if you wanted it done for free.
@@ThePracticalMechanic LOL -- I would PAY to NOT have them do it for free! In fact, that's what I tried to do - just sell me the replacement switch. No such luck. However, turns out there's more to the story. Just went yesterday to the dealer to further investigate. Their on-the-shelf replacement switch (your "FJ" part number) is EXACTLY like the one in our 2016 X-trek - blue WITHOUT a green dot. Go figure. Parts guy knew nothing about a 'green dot' version. Furthermore - the replacement they're using for the recall is ENTIRELY different than either the grey or the blue switch. It's black, has an entirely different electrical connection - the Subie's plug won't fit. So it comes with a pig-tail that adapts the new switch to the Subie harness. AND it's a metal threaded shaft - so it has to have the proper engagement with the brake pedal arm set by adjusting threaded fasteners that go above and below the plate that the switch fastens to. Weighs MUCH more than the plastic switch - much more robust design. Worst of all - for me - they would not sell me the replacement/recall switch. In fact, it's in a box with no markings at all - no part number on it, no bar code. Guy said he couldn't sell it to me if he wanted to - no way to do the transaction absent the number/bar code. I can only get the recall-replacement switch by letting them do the swap. Furthermore, they wouldn't sell me the replacement blue switch (like the one that came in mine) even though they had it in stock -- because of the recall. That's all I know! Thx for the assistance.
Michael Yount thanks for the info. Subaru must have recently changed something when they went full blown recall. I will do some checking with my repair information and local Subaru dealer.
2013 legacy allways is BLS is on c0043 how i can solve this issue, VDS Control Module IO Signal input pin number 3 7.4v allways when i remove sensor doesnt matter...
So I'm stumped. This fault is the only thing I've found that corresponds to the 3 dash lights being active. I have a 2016 sti and I have all 3 lights on (also cruise control doesn't work and I'm locked into sport mode), but my brake lights are still working just fine. Any idea if this brake switch could be malfunctioning but not to the point where my brake lights aren't working yet?
The brake light switch typically has 4 wires and only two will be for the brake lights. The other two can be for computer control. I just had a 2014 STI in the shop with a 6 speed manual that would light up the dashboard after a short test drive because of the brake light switch. The dealer said it had an open recall on the switch so the customer is taking in for a free replacement. On the newer Subaru’s anytime a check engine light or sometime an ABS light is set the traction/slip and cruise light will start flashing and cruise control is disabled.
Sam Sioson I have not run into the issue myself so I’m not sure if it is common or not. Do you have a spare key you can try? If the spare key works better then your primary key may be getting worn out. Make sure the shifter is all the way in the park position as well.
Is this the same process for getting your key out of the ignition when the ignition doesn't want to let go of it? It's been happening a lot lately. 2015 Crosstrek.
dzrt XV I’m not sure it that will help you or not. I’m thinking not. Does the key only turn back to the accessory position? Does the Park indicator light up on the dash? If wiggling or pushing forward on the shifter helps then the shifter may need adjusted or replaced. There could be other things causing it but just try to isolate what you you do to get the key out.
Having the same problem with my 2012 impreza. The brake lights do work though.. So it's a different issue completely. If it's too expensive to fix would it be dangerous to keep using the emergency override button to shift into gear?
Hello, I took my crosstrek to the dealer when this happened to me and ever since then I have been able to shift out of park without depressing the brake pedal. Can I fix this by taking out the switch and re-installing it with less pressure on the button?
John Cox That’s what I would try. It need a minor adjust to get that shift lock to work again. You will actually need more pressure on the button if the adjustment allows for it. When the pedal is pressed the pressure on the button is released so less pressure may make it worse. If adjusting it doesn’t help then call the dealer back because the new switch could be defective. Let us know what happens.
I’ve got a 2002 outback! I can’t get the ignition switch to turn. The steering wheel isn’t locked at all. I just got the car in a trade and I’m going to sell it but can get key to work! Any ideas?
Rick Ross do the keys work in the doors? Make sure the shifter is all the way in park. If none of that works the ignition lock cylinder may be gummed up or broken.
If you press down on the release/override and the press the button on the shifter you should be able to pull it down into gear. It takes a longish rod to press the button.
I’m having the same problem on 2019 Subaru wrx I did bypass the transmission (CVT) to get it home and every light is on except for a check engine light but the break lights do not work is this common for this generation of cars ?
I have not seen it on a car that new but it wouldn’t surprise me. I would call the dealer and let them know what’s going on and if they have to part on the shelf they may be able to repair it quickly.
But would that be your main indication if you we’re diagnosing this vehicle ? Btw the car drives fine except for the break light and having to manually put out of park
Steven Roseren yes it would. The brake light switch activates the shift lock solenoid and the brake lights. It also feeds a signal to the ecm to deactivate cruise control and change shift patterns in the transmission. That is why so many warning lights illuminate when it fails. It is a simple job that you could perform yourself but you could probably get it done for free at the dealer.
ThePracticalMechanic Hey this a little late reply but I wanted to say thank you for your help, me and my gf were very worried about this problem especially on a new 2019 wrx cvt I have a 2017 STI and haven’t had any sort of issues like that but it was the break light switch , I told the service mechanic immediately when we got there and they were a bit hesitant because it was brand new car , but as soon as the technician tried to move out of park and I helped him he said “ oh yeah this is for sure the break light switch “It took a few days to order because this is the first 2019 they have seen with this issue , but I think there will be more to come from others I hope not lol but me being the first isn’t the best sign . I was hesitant to bring it to Subaru even though the vehicle has only 2500 hundred miles and we have a warranty but we do have some mods cat-back exhaust, Cobb intake and Cobb AP (Hand held tuner) but I do know some people at the dealership that will look past this stuff without voiding warranties thankfully , again thank you so much for your help I did not want to bring it to my performance shop and pay for diagnostic work that would cost a lot of money for a 18 dollar part . Thanks man me and my gf appreciate it! Car runs great no problems at all !
Awesome!! Glad you got it taken care of. It’s a bummer that even the new cars are having the same issue as the older ones. Hopefully you won’t have any issues now. 👍🏼
If you’re on a hill it won’t shift out of park? Or it won’t move forward when you’re on the hill? If you’re having difficulties getting it out of park when on a hill then I don’t think it’ll be the transmission. If the vehicle just won’t move when you’re on a hill even with the shifter in drive then that could be a transmission issue. If the shifter gets stuck in park when you’re parked on a hill it still could be the brake light switch. There may be a small piece of debris inside of the switch the only blocks contact when on an incline.
Kelly Xiong you may want to check you brake lights. This is primarily used as an emergency tool to get you back home or to a repair shop. If the brake lights are not working it present a safety hazard for yourself and others on the road. It won’t hurt the car mechanically to drive it.
I changed the switch on my 2013 legacy, it didn't fix the problem. Note: problem started when I tried to connect a spoiler to my brake lights through trunk.
@@ThePracticalMechanic yes this was it, i changed the "Stop Light" fuse #8 on the passenger fuse compartment, its a 15A fuse. This fixed the issue. But took a $60 damage from the dealer for the switch, ill try to sell it on ebay. Lol
Well there are several things that can cause them to overheat. The 5.7 hemi engine has issues with the thermostat and the head gaskets. if it has the 3.6 then I haven't seen many with overheating issues so check coolant level and make sure the cooling fans are operating. What year is your car and what engine so you have? How long have you had the issue?
@@ThePracticalMechanic It's a 2011 with the 5.7. It just started yesterday. I noticed a bubbling sound and popped the hood and noticed it was boiling in the reservoir. However the temperature according to the dash was still fine and not overheating. It wasn't boiling like it was about to start spilling out but it was definitely boiling to where I could hear it from inside the car and see it as soon as i opened the hood.
Next time it acts up make sure that if you squeeze the radiator hose that there is pressure inside the hose. If there is not pressure then the radiator cap isn't allowing the system to pressurize and the coolant will boil around 220F degrees. If there is pressure in the hose and your not overheating then the bubbles could be combustion gases from a failed head gasket. A radiator cap is a cheap enough part to replace and see what happens if it still acts up you may want to have it checked for failed head gaskets.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thanks for the responses! One last question, in general are the 2016 f150 with the 3.5 eco boost reliable? I've been looking into some and the only concern i had was the condensation build up that the earlier year models had in high humidity and rainy weather. Did Ford address the problem or is it still a hit or a miss?
I don't have any direct experience with the problem since Colorado is mostly dry but I believe Ford has added active shutters that keep the intercooler warm enough to not have condensation problems. They added these in 2015 or 2016 and this seems to have helped with the problem. I know that the ecoboost crowd has been installing PCV catch cans and drilling holes in the intercoolers on the older ones but that may not be necessary on the newer ones. I have tuned up many of them using the updated plugs and updated plug gap, have replaced one turbo and have replaced several catalytic convertors on the early ones. Most of the newer ones are still under factory warranty so I wont get to repair one for a while.
If you are having this problem, please file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration at 888-327-4236. That way, they may do a recall. Why the f@#% is this not a recall?????
can this be permanently disabled? seems pretty stupid to render the car useless for either no apparent reason at all or a flippin brake light. seriously? brake light quit, welp guess i'll just walk like what the actual fuck subaru
Typically no because the pieces that lock the shifter into park often allow the key to be rotated into the off position. If you try to shut off the car in neutral the key stops at accessory until the shifter is returned to park. I would just carry a long straight pick or piece of brass hobby rod in the glove box with a piece of tape labeling it so you don’t throw it away.
Dear Sir, This is an EXCELLENT video and covers everything clearly and in detail without going overboard. 10/10 in my opinion.
Wow, thanks!
This happened to me with my 2015 Forester. I was so afraid I was going to be stuck in the middle of the night in another town because this happened to me two hours from home! I was able to get home safely and ordered the new part online for $15 right away. And it took only one minute to install!! It was so easy with this step by step video. You explained it clearly and concisely. I'm a woman in my 30s who knows little about cars but when I can follow along and do it myself and understand how and why things work, it gives me a lot of confidence. Thanks for the video!
Work for impreza gj7 2013, thanks man, my car battery died at small garage, you just saved ton of my times to pull it out myself
God bless you! just saved me a weekend of worry. Taking my car in for a recall appointment. It was stuck in the garage. These UA-cam videos have saved me many ulcers and many dollars over the years!
No problem Mark. Make sure to have the dealer check to see if any other open recalls apply for your vehicle as well. Get those things fixed for free while you can.
Thank you so much. I like the fact that you did not take a half hour to tell how smart you are, you just explained every thing step by step, so easy to under stand. You are not only smart but wise
.
No problem Roy. I appreciate the encouragement and reinforcement of what I’m doing.
Saved my wife and I from calling someone to help us jump. Her car was stuck in park dead in front of the garage blocking me from turning around. Great vid!
Really well done! I have this issue now, and I feel confident after watching this that I can change the switch. Nice step by step process.
Very good video. Clear, concise and easy to follow. Thanks!!
Thank you. Your video saved me $300+ in proposed electrical work by an auto shop, and it would not have solved the problem. Good diagnostics is everything.
Nice!!! That is what it's all about. I try not to question other mechanics but I do like to verify what they say is wrong. I'm glad you did as well.
Knew this trick, but wasn’t working for me (after going awhile with out needing to use it)-with the screwdriver I had normally used for some reason. Your tip about length was really helpful.
Thank you for your detailed descriptive step-by-step video. I had the same problem on my 2013 Crosstrek. Luckily the shifter wasn't fully stuck in Parking. The lights for ABS, Traction and Hill assist were coming on after about 10 minutes driving, not at the very beginning. After about 10 days with this going on and off I got a new sensor, replaced, and no more issues. Thanks a lot.
Awesome video. Many thanks to people like you that actually take the time to guide us in order to save $300++ in bull charges from auto shops. Subaru, Forester 2015. Same problem. It did happen every once in a while. 3 lights ON. Not consistent with anything. One time, it locked my gear box just like on the video. After turning the engine on/off several times, it actually unlocked it and the 3 lights went off. The engine key is NOT deep enough to unlock the shifter so you better have something long and narrow to use. I purchased the switch from ebay for $14.50. Although it was advertised as OEM Subaru part, what came had a "NISSAN" logo stamp, just like it shows on the video, on the brown part at 6:50. To my surprise, the switch I removed from my car was IDENTICAL TO THE ONE I PURCHASED. Blue/brown, NOT CREAM/BROWN. It even had the "NISSAN" stamp on it too!!! But it did not have the greenish paint mark shown at 4:43. The new part did! I replaced it. It takes less than 5 minutes and it only requires a screwdriver. So far so good. I will update if i see any issues.This is my husband writing this review
Awesome. I’m glad the video helped.
Nissan make many electronic parts for other manufacturers. The Subaru dealer I buy parts from is combined with a Nissan dealership.
Thanks for stopping by and thanks for the detailed comment about your Subaru.
Which 3 lights came on when you had this issue? Do you remember if the steering wheel was hard to move? My daughter has a 2013 Outback and twice she has experienced this weird mode.
Clear simple and very informative.
Glad it was helpful! Have a joyful month.
Excellent, extremely clear presentation.
Your video super helped me! And thanks for explaining about inserting a pen (I used the flat end of a colored pencil without an eraser I luckily had in car) tempted to fix it myself all the way but computer is being feisty so will go into Subaru dealer to reset
Thanks. Same thing happened to my 16’ Forester, with the three lights associated. Good to know it’s not a huge repair.
Good video. It will save me from being stuck somewhere.
I was so excited when I seen this video and how easy it was and I actually ran into quite a few people and they had no idea so thank you so much I bought the part haven't had time to put it in maybe tomorrow I will send a message after that you explained everything perfectly thank Go UA-cam😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
great video, thanks a lot. I wish you lots of customers !
Great video thanks, my 2009 outback won't shift out of park. Thanks for the tips
oh-my-God! i hVe been wondering how the hell can i use my car this week because my brake light switch doesnt work anymore. Thank u very much!!!! ☺️☺️. but on my car,there is just a shift-release slot. now i know what that is for 😂
Thank you very much for this video! I have a similar problem with my 2012 Tribeca but in my case the shifter is stuck in sport mode neutral. I’ve tried this technique but it still won’t go back to normal mode and can’t remove the key. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thank you!
Great videos. Simple yet very informative.
I've had my 2012 forester for 8 years, and I always wondered what that little "cover" was for. Now I know - - just in case. Thanks a lot.
Great video, thanks for the help!
No problem!!!🔧🔧🔧🔧
Interesting to see the mention of silicone as a cause of poor contact in that TSB. I use dielectric grease on connectors to exclude water and reduce corrosion, though I often wonder about whether the silicone in dielectric grease might contribute to poor contact.
You’re such a life saver. I wish I could give this video 100 thumbs ups 👍
Awesome!!!! If you click the 👍button that many time you better make it 101 times so it stays lit up at the end😃
Our 2006 Subaru Impreza (124,000 miles) is stuck in Park. It starts and runs normally, and the stick shift moves, but the dashboard display always indicates P no matter what gear the stick shift is in. The car does not go forward or backward. Initially the brake pedal was very hard to depress. Now, after fiddling with the stick shift, it seems normal. Expensive code reader finds no stored or pending DTCs. There are no check engine/trouble lights lit on the dashboard. Pressing the emergency override switch next to the stick shift makes no difference. Unsnapped all of the plastic from around the shift stick to make sure I was pressing the switch all the way down - no difference. Even though the brake lights seemed to work normally when the pedal was depressed, I changed the stop light switch anyway - no difference. Brake lights still come on when the pedal is depressed. Dashboard still indicates P when the shifter is moved. Car still will not go forward or backward. Right now, whenever the stick shift is moved into Park, a loud click comes from the dashboard. That never happened before. Prior to getting stuck at work, the brakes worked normally, the car was quiet and there was no reason to suspect anything was about to go wrong. Have you ever seen this before? Thank you.
It’s possible that the shift cable broke or a plastic component in the shifter broke. Might need to look underneath while someone moves the shifter and see if the shift cable and lever is moving.
Thanks. I was thinking that too. A disconnected cable is the only thing that makes sense but countless others say it's either the stop light switch and/or the shift interlock. Hopefully, I'll find out which it is this weekend...@@ThePracticalMechanic
my brake lights off and the shift stuck in park. I changed two fuses. they burnt. Then I changed braked light switch, I could move shifter. after 20m drive, it stuck again and brake light off. what I should do next?
What if the brake light switch DOES work? I have a 2004 outback that we have to hit the override button to shift out of park. We've confirmed the brake lights work when depressing the pedal.
You my friend are amazing! Thank you for posting this!!!!!!!!!!!!
My pleasure!! Glad it helped you out.
Do i need to take out the battery before installing the new brake light sensor?
👏👏👏 Thank you! You even put up the image of the service bulletin with the part number!!! I have a 2012 Impreza and it looks like I have this exact issue. Brake lights work fine after I do the override with a screwdriver and get it in R, N, or D. I recently had all my brakes changed (expensive $$$) and I wonder if the very thing they mentioned in the bulletin about someone using a silicone lubricant around the area of the BLS could have caused that non-conductive coating build-up. The fix you did seems like something I could reasonably do on my own. If I can locate the correct part, would you recommend me giving it a go on my own? Or is it something that carries a bit of risk for a non-professional? Again, THANK YOU!
Also, I purchased the car used from a Honda dealership, so not sure if they would carry the part or if I'd have to check with my local Subaru dealership. If there's a service bulletin, does this mean I could possibly get it fixed for free? Not quite sure how that works. I've taken it to Honda for service recalls before, but I'm not sure if there's a difference between a recall and a "service bulletin".
I would call t he Subaru dealer and see if they can help you out. The part should be purchased from Subaru if you are going to do the job your self. The process is relatively easy although if the sensor isn’t install correctly you may have additional issues.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I appreciate it. Subscribed for sure.
I am having similar issue but the key gets stuck on and will not turn all the way back to lock to remove it.
I figured out disconnecting battery will allow me to move the key to lovk and remove it but will this solution resolve that also or is it a different solenoid all together?
This is an issue with the park position micro switch in the shifter. I have had numerous cars come in this way but haven’t had time to film one. Subaru used to sell the complete shifter but now they have a service kit to replace the micro switch on some models. Basically the switch is to confirm your in park before they car can turn all the way off.
@@ThePracticalMechanic than you. I'm wondering what it i just unplug it until the part comes in would it work just less safely?
My problem: the switch is turned around. So I can't depressed the release button. I thought of turning the piece counter clockwise to release it so I could rotate it to access the release button, but it won't budge. Does the top part have to be done first before it can be pulled out??
Thanks man keep up the informative videos
My automatic subaru forester 2012 will come out of park, says it is in reverse on the dashboard, but the car will not reverse. Any suggestions?
thanks man.
Thanks for details! Apparently this has risen to the level of a formal recall -- I got the notice for my wife's 2016 Crosstrek just the other day. Her car has the blue switch, but WITHOUT the 'green dot'. Any idea whether or not that is a problem switch or if it's ok? I detest taking the car to the dealer for anything - seems like it always comes back with something wrong/damage that wasn't there before I took it in. I removed the switch -- it has "Nissan" logo on it. And the following number/letter designation -- PA66 GF33K NILES.
Edit -- the marking on my blue (with no green dot) brake switch is PA66 GF33 NILES. The "K" was an error on my part.
The main difference I remember is the dot on the brake light switch. It’s not to invasive so the dealer shouldn’t do any damage if you wanted it done for free.
@@ThePracticalMechanic LOL -- I would PAY to NOT have them do it for free! In fact, that's what I tried to do - just sell me the replacement switch. No such luck.
However, turns out there's more to the story. Just went yesterday to the dealer to further investigate. Their on-the-shelf replacement switch (your "FJ" part number) is EXACTLY like the one in our 2016 X-trek - blue WITHOUT a green dot. Go figure. Parts guy knew nothing about a 'green dot' version. Furthermore - the replacement they're using for the recall is ENTIRELY different than either the grey or the blue switch. It's black, has an entirely different electrical connection - the Subie's plug won't fit. So it comes with a pig-tail that adapts the new switch to the Subie harness. AND it's a metal threaded shaft - so it has to have the proper engagement with the brake pedal arm set by adjusting threaded fasteners that go above and below the plate that the switch fastens to. Weighs MUCH more than the plastic switch - much more robust design. Worst of all - for me - they would not sell me the replacement/recall switch. In fact, it's in a box with no markings at all - no part number on it, no bar code. Guy said he couldn't sell it to me if he wanted to - no way to do the transaction absent the number/bar code. I can only get the recall-replacement switch by letting them do the swap. Furthermore, they wouldn't sell me the replacement blue switch (like the one that came in mine) even though they had it in stock -- because of the recall. That's all I know! Thx for the assistance.
Michael Yount thanks for the info. Subaru must have recently changed something when they went full blown recall. I will do some checking with my repair information and local Subaru dealer.
...thanks 4 sharing👍
Well that’s good to know
hi Sir, my 2007 subaru outback shifter stuck in park, i was wondering where i can buy brake light switch?
thank you
2013 legacy allways is BLS is on c0043 how i can solve this issue, VDS Control Module IO Signal input pin number 3 7.4v allways when i remove sensor doesnt matter...
Does that switch. Also control the taillights ? My 92 legacy tail lights dont work all fuses and bulbs good and a new relay... Help
This switch is only for brake lamps and the shifter interlock.
So I'm stumped. This fault is the only thing I've found that corresponds to the 3 dash lights being active. I have a 2016 sti and I have all 3 lights on (also cruise control doesn't work and I'm locked into sport mode), but my brake lights are still working just fine. Any idea if this brake switch could be malfunctioning but not to the point where my brake lights aren't working yet?
The brake light switch typically has 4 wires and only two will be for the brake lights. The other two can be for computer control. I just had a 2014 STI in the shop with a 6 speed manual that would light up the dashboard after a short test drive because of the brake light switch. The dealer said it had an open recall on the switch so the customer is taking in for a free replacement.
On the newer Subaru’s anytime a check engine light or sometime an ABS light is set the traction/slip and cruise light will start flashing and cruise control is disabled.
Hey ThePracticalMechanic!
Do you have any remedy about the key being stuck or hard to get out of the ignition - Subaru XV. Thanks!!!!
Sam Sioson I have not run into the issue myself so I’m not sure if it is common or not. Do you have a spare key you can try? If the spare key works better then your primary key may be getting worn out. Make sure the shifter is all the way in the park position as well.
Is this the same process for getting your key out of the ignition when the ignition doesn't want to let go of it? It's been happening a lot lately. 2015 Crosstrek.
dzrt XV I’m not sure it that will help you or not. I’m thinking not. Does the key only turn back to the accessory position? Does the Park indicator light up on the dash? If wiggling or pushing forward on the shifter helps then the shifter may need adjusted or replaced. There could be other things causing it but just try to isolate what you you do to get the key out.
Having the same problem with my 2012 impreza. The brake lights do work though.. So it's a different issue completely. If it's too expensive to fix would it be dangerous to keep using the emergency override button to shift into gear?
The brake light switch is two switches built into one so it could still be the problem. It won’t hurt anything to use the override button.
also i remove the brake lamp relay too again same. BLS allways on
Hello, I took my crosstrek to the dealer when this happened to me and ever since then I have been able to shift out of park without depressing the brake pedal. Can I fix this by taking out the switch and re-installing it with less pressure on the button?
John Cox That’s what I would try. It need a minor adjust to get that shift lock to work again. You will actually need more pressure on the button if the adjustment allows for it. When the pedal is pressed the pressure on the button is released so less pressure may make it worse. If adjusting it doesn’t help then call the dealer back because the new switch could be defective. Let us know what happens.
I have a 1994 Subaru legacy. Can't find the manual button to release the car out of park
I’ve got a 2002 outback! I can’t get the ignition switch to turn. The steering wheel isn’t locked at all. I just got the car in a trade and I’m going to sell it but can get key to work! Any ideas?
Rick Ross do the keys work in the doors? Make sure the shifter is all the way in park. If none of that works the ignition lock cylinder may be gummed up or broken.
I need some help. Shifter is in park. Even with pressing the release switch it will no come out of gear..
If you press down on the release/override and the press the button on the shifter you should be able to pull it down into gear. It takes a longish rod to press the button.
I’m having the same problem on 2019 Subaru wrx I did bypass the transmission (CVT) to get it home and every light is on except for a check engine light but the break lights do not work is this common for this generation of cars ?
I have not seen it on a car that new but it wouldn’t surprise me. I would call the dealer and let them know what’s going on and if they have to part on the shelf they may be able to repair it quickly.
But would that be your main indication if you we’re diagnosing this vehicle ?
Btw the car drives fine except for the break light and having to manually put out of park
Steven Roseren yes it would. The brake light switch activates the shift lock solenoid and the brake lights. It also feeds a signal to the ecm to deactivate cruise control and change shift patterns in the transmission. That is why so many warning lights illuminate when it fails. It is a simple job that you could perform yourself but you could probably get it done for free at the dealer.
ThePracticalMechanic Hey this a little late reply but I wanted to say thank you for your help, me and my gf were very worried about this problem especially on a new 2019 wrx cvt I have a 2017 STI and haven’t had any sort of issues like that but it was the break light switch , I told the service mechanic immediately when we got there and they were a bit hesitant because it was brand new car , but as soon as the technician tried to move out of park and I helped him he said “ oh yeah this is for sure the break light switch “It took a few days to order because this is the first 2019 they have seen with this issue , but I think there will be more to come from others I hope not lol but me being the first isn’t the best sign . I was hesitant to bring it to Subaru even though the vehicle has only 2500 hundred miles and we have a warranty but we do have some mods cat-back exhaust, Cobb intake and Cobb AP (Hand held tuner) but I do know some people at the dealership that will look past this stuff without voiding warranties thankfully , again thank you so much for your help I did not want to bring it to my performance shop and pay for diagnostic work that would cost a lot of money for a 18 dollar part . Thanks man me and my gf appreciate it! Car runs great no problems at all !
Awesome!! Glad you got it taken care of. It’s a bummer that even the new cars are having the same issue as the older ones. Hopefully you won’t have any issues now. 👍🏼
My 2016 Outback does this on hills, could it be the transmission?
If you’re on a hill it won’t shift out of park? Or it won’t move forward when you’re on the hill? If you’re having difficulties getting it out of park when on a hill then I don’t think it’ll be the transmission. If the vehicle just won’t move when you’re on a hill even with the shifter in drive then that could be a transmission issue.
If the shifter gets stuck in park when you’re parked on a hill it still could be the brake light switch. There may be a small piece of debris inside of the switch the only blocks contact when on an incline.
Is it safe to drive?
Kelly Xiong you may want to check you brake lights. This is primarily used as an emergency tool to get you back home or to a repair shop. If the brake lights are not working it present a safety hazard for yourself and others on the road. It won’t hurt the car mechanically to drive it.
ThePracticalMechanic thanks. Cause it was on but haven’t drove it, but do have to get to the shop and just want to make sure. Thanks.
I changed the switch on my 2013 legacy, it didn't fix the problem. Note: problem started when I tried to connect a spoiler to my brake lights through trunk.
It’s possible that a fuse popped because of the spoiler addition. I would check fuses first.
@@ThePracticalMechanic yes this was it, i changed the "Stop Light" fuse #8 on the passenger fuse compartment, its a 15A fuse. This fixed the issue. But took a $60 damage from the dealer for the switch, ill try to sell it on ebay. Lol
My eyesight light came on along with the ABS as soon as I changed the thing for the brake light
How do I get the eyesight to start working again?
Codes may have to be cleared from the modules. Several modules look for input from that sensor and will set codes if they detect a problem.
Hi I was just wondering what could cause a dodge chargers radiator reservoir to start boiling after a short drive?
Well there are several things that can cause them to overheat. The 5.7 hemi engine has issues with the thermostat and the head gaskets. if it has the 3.6 then I haven't seen many with overheating issues so check coolant level and make sure the cooling fans are operating. What year is your car and what engine so you have? How long have you had the issue?
@@ThePracticalMechanic It's a 2011 with the 5.7. It just started yesterday. I noticed a bubbling sound and popped the hood and noticed it was boiling in the reservoir. However the temperature according to the dash was still fine and not overheating. It wasn't boiling like it was about to start spilling out but it was definitely boiling to where I could hear it from inside the car and see it as soon as i opened the hood.
Next time it acts up make sure that if you squeeze the radiator hose that there is pressure inside the hose. If there is not pressure then the radiator cap isn't allowing the system to pressurize and the coolant will boil around 220F degrees. If there is pressure in the hose and your not overheating then the bubbles could be combustion gases from a failed head gasket. A radiator cap is a cheap enough part to replace and see what happens if it still acts up you may want to have it checked for failed head gaskets.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thanks for the responses! One last question, in general are the 2016 f150 with the 3.5 eco boost reliable? I've been looking into some and the only concern i had was the condensation build up that the earlier year models had in high humidity and rainy weather. Did Ford address the problem or is it still a hit or a miss?
I don't have any direct experience with the problem since Colorado is mostly dry but I believe Ford has added active shutters that keep the intercooler warm enough to not have condensation problems. They added these in 2015 or 2016 and this seems to have helped with the problem. I know that the ecoboost crowd has been installing PCV catch cans and drilling holes in the intercoolers on the older ones but that may not be necessary on the newer ones. I have tuned up many of them using the updated plugs and updated plug gap, have replaced one turbo and have replaced several catalytic convertors on the early ones. Most of the newer ones are still under factory warranty so I wont get to repair one for a while.
If you are having this problem, please file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration at 888-327-4236. That way, they may do a recall. Why the f@#% is this not a recall?????
Mine doesn’t have that button 1995
can this be permanently disabled?
seems pretty stupid to render the car useless for either no apparent reason at all or a flippin brake light.
seriously? brake light quit, welp guess i'll just walk like what the actual fuck subaru
Typically no because the pieces that lock the shifter into park often allow the key to be rotated into the off position. If you try to shut off the car in neutral the key stops at accessory until the shifter is returned to park. I would just carry a long straight pick or piece of brass hobby rod in the glove box with a piece of tape labeling it so you don’t throw it away.
great video but skip the part where you go over the tools that don't work...