Brilliant! My issue was the amplifier came unplugged during my headliner renovation. I didn't realize it had happened until you took off the clock and showed where it sat. Sure enough, plugged it back in and everything works as advertised! Cheers mate!
I’ve found that on the R53, the receiver is in the mirror. The online forums have detailed a cleaning process for the internal circuitry, but I will just buy a new mirror at this point.
Great video, must have watched it at least a dozen times gearing up to do this and certainly will be useful to a lot of folks. However, this turned out not to be my issue in the end. To save some people having to do this here is what I learned after hours on the forums. Check where this module is depending on your Mini model. Apparently mine is an R56 and my receiver is in the back right quarter panel. Some are actually in the mirror as well as what's shown in this video. Anyway what fixed mine was 1. Checking that the battery was well over 3v with a multimeter. Turns out the "new" battery was only 2.98v even though it was within it's date. Got them from ebay..maybe clones, Screwfix do these batteries 4 for 3 quid. 2. Replace the battery whilst sitting in the car, mine didn't work until I did this for both my keys.
Hi. This is exactly my issue! I’m glad to see I see I am not alone. Great vid (and name! 😆). Will be getting on to trying a replacement receiver asap. Thank you 😬👍🏼
Im not sure if it is this, my key or the locks. But when I use my key to unlock the doors it works, however when I try to lock the car the locks go down and shoot back up seconds later so it won't stay locked. Same situation for if I try to lock manually by key in the door. My locking system for when inside works tho? Its my first car...I bought it 2nd hand and it did not come with a spare key so I cannot try that... any ideas??
Good video as helped me out, but scratched my head for a while how to get the old unit out. You need a T20 torx bit and I had to put the screwdriver handle up into the roof cavity in order to undo otherwise you cant get the angle on the screw head.
Hi! Very good video 🎉 But my mini has a weird problem, the car started to make a beep sound as i unlock or lock and now only the drivers lock will work. Do you happen to know if the body module could be faulty? And if so do I need to take it to programming or do i just swap it?
i have a question so my 2003 mini cooper will only unlock with the key entry like it’s not a keyless entry anymore with both sides of the doors and i have to manually push down the lock on the passenger door and lock my door from the outside they won’t even lock when i start driving what do you think the problem would be?
I had a similar problem with my 2003 R50 and lived with the remote working (sometimes) for a long time. Finally I took it to a locksmith shop and they could not fix it, but they suggested a body shop. My local body shop said the problem was with the central looking box inside the drivers door. I had them replace that and it has worked perfectly since then. Of course I wanted a cheaper fix....this was $350, but I was glad just to get it fixed at all. The nearest Mini dealer is 200 miles away, and it would probably have cost a lot more to get it fixed there...2 years now, and no more lock problems....
I have an 05 mini cooper S with a dead battery. The key does not unlock the door when turned to a completely horizontal position and there is no feeling of resistance while turning it until I get to that horizontal stopping point. I think the lock mechanism may have an internal problem that doesn't allow the key to unlock it. Is there any other way to gain entry so I can pop the hood and charge the battery?
@@peterchapman9888 Yes, under the driver-side just behind the front wheel, you will see the main positive power cable in a sheath running from the front to the rear of the car where the battery is. Just make a slice in the rubber sheath and hammer/tap a flathead screwdriver into the cable. Make sure the flat head is running lengthwise with the strands inside the cable so you don't sever too many. Then attach your battery charger to the shaft of the screwdriver and the negative to any good ground point on the undercarriage. I trickle-charged it overnight and in the morning it had enough juice to operate the door locks. Ps- I did have to use a bucket to prop up the driver or it would keep falling out. You can also use a little silicon caulking afterward to seal up the sliced sheath.
Great video. Have you any idea why the key fob key on this (my daughter's car- a 2016 Mini Cooper Countryman ) will automatically lower the windows with the usual long press on the remote fob open car button but refuses to send them up to close via the remote close button? No probe's if not but thanks for a brill video.
Sounds like it needs a reset. Put ignition on, lower all windows fully and keep DOWN button held down for 3-5 seconds. Then put all windows up, this time holding the button in the UP position for 3-5 seconds once closed. (You can do all windows at once, or one at a time). Same method works for sunroofs.
I removed the receiver, as I’ve ordered a new one to be delivered on Wednesday. Came to my car about an hour ago and all my dash lights have stopped working. Any idea what would have caused this issue?
That’s very weird. Does the car start? Has the battery died? Have you plugged the box back in and tried again. I can’t see anyway the part can effect your dash lights, but plug it back in to check. Let me know what happens.
@@DipstickDave it had blown a fuse when taking it out. Replaced the fuse and it’s working again now, have put the old receiver back in until Wednesday when the new one arrives, will the keys or anything need reprogramming when I replace it?
That’s really good new. Odd they are on the same circuit. But I glad you found it. Nope shouldn’t need to reprogram the key, it’s only the signal booster you are replacing and not the ecu that authorises the key.
That’s sounds like the actuator in the doors not working. Does the boot open? It’s rare for both doors actuators (a little motor that pushes and pulls the lock mechanism, just like a turn of the key) to fail at the same time. And very in rare for the doors and boot not to open. Can you still open it with a key and start it?
@@DipstickDave thanks for the reply, the boot does unlock and open but no longer pops itself up, I can get in with the manual key alone and it will start up quite happily so its strange for it to just go. Last time I tried to unlock it with the key, the little bolts slid half way up but didnt actually unlock the door. They also would still go down if I switched the lock toggle on the dash. Now they dont move at all with the key and the switch inside the car also does nothing
Sounds like you’ll have to take the door cards off and have a look. It sound like the lock linkage has come off or bent or broken. Weird that both sides have gone at the same time. Maybe the lock where frozen and you unlocked the car and that caused it ????? Good luck. Let me know what it is when you find out.
Sorry I haven’t worked on a mini of your age so can’t help much. Sounds like it could be the key however is the start button isn’t working along with the locking.
That’s odd. I don’t think there is much behind the glove box. It should be easy to check it’s only held in with 3 screws. I think T25 head, but I might be wrong.
It will need reprogramming. I think the 07 has the round key, so different to this one. A bit of Googling should tell you if you can do it yourself or not. Good luck.
I can see that this is for an R53 Mini. I have an R56 Cooper S, where only one key (the spare) is problematic, in that it no longer locks or unlocks the car (it will still start it though?!). The main key works just fine. Given that it's only one key that's buggering about, I'm thinking that it's not likely to be a signal amplifier, and is most likely to be the key (fob) itself? The batteries aren't changeable before it's suggested, as the car recharges the keys, through the fob slot, like an electric toothbrush - and I've checked that there is good charge in the fob itself (no low batt warnings on the rev counter computer when the spare fob is used to start the engine).
Brilliant! My issue was the amplifier came unplugged during my headliner renovation. I didn't realize it had happened until you took off the clock and showed where it sat. Sure enough, plugged it back in and everything works as advertised! Cheers mate!
Glad it helped!
I’ve been wracking my brain for ages why my 2005 R53 is unresponsive, even to brand new keys. Thank you.
I’ve found that on the R53, the receiver is in the mirror. The online forums have detailed a cleaning process for the internal circuitry, but I will just buy a new mirror at this point.
Thank you so much I've had no idea about this for years, even ruined my locks using the key
Very useful information. I bought new key first and it was still not still not working. Tried this problem solved.
Many thanks!!!
Glad it helped
Great help, my one had the sabe issue, ordered the second hand part and BOOM!, all working again!!!, thank you for the tip.
Great video, must have watched it at least a dozen times gearing up to do this and certainly will be useful to a lot of folks. However, this turned out not to be my issue in the end. To save some people having to do this here is what I learned after hours on the forums. Check where this module is depending on your Mini model. Apparently mine is an R56 and my receiver is in the back right quarter panel. Some are actually in the mirror as well as what's shown in this video.
Anyway what fixed mine was 1. Checking that the battery was well over 3v with a multimeter. Turns out the "new" battery was only 2.98v even though it was within it's date. Got them from ebay..maybe clones, Screwfix do these batteries 4 for 3 quid. 2. Replace the battery whilst sitting in the car, mine didn't work until I did this for both my keys.
Hi. This is exactly my issue! I’m glad to
see I see I am not alone. Great vid (and name! 😆). Will be getting on to trying a replacement receiver asap. Thank you 😬👍🏼
Thank you so much. I used this video to open my car!!! And it worked. I could hug you
I will NEVER refuse a hug. Well maybe not in Covid times but normally, hug central!
@@DipstickDave Air hug it is 😊
Im not sure if it is this, my key or the locks. But when I use my key to unlock the doors it works, however when I try to lock the car the locks go down and shoot back up seconds later so it won't stay locked. Same situation for if I try to lock manually by key in the door. My locking system for when inside works tho?
Its my first car...I bought it 2nd hand and it did not come with a spare key so I cannot try that... any ideas??
Where can you find the amplifier on the facelift model that doesn’t have the clock?
What the name of the little back box’s ?
Hello, must be re-coded after changing the control unit
In this case you would only be changing the signal amplifier not the control unit. So no recoding needed.
Cheers for the video.
Does it/ did you need to recode it to suit the key?
No it’s just plug and play. It’s only a simple amplifier for the signal. Cheers
Can you put a link for the part?
I purchased a used one on ebay and it still didnt work. Whats the probability that i was sent a dud? Or whether i have another failure elsewhere?
...WHERE IS IT LOCATED ON THE 2006 WITH ELECTRIC SUN ROOF ...
Did you ever find out?
@billydmarlow8400 ?
@@JTickettit‘s in the rear mirror. It is a pcb.
Would this cause the interior door locks to not unlock/lock with the center unlock/lock switch as well?
No, the centre switch is hardwired so doesn’t use this module. It sounds like the actuators in the door.
Will this work for a mini one as my spare key will not work?
Inflation taking its toll on the wallet, just checked eBay and these are now between £50 - £110 second hand..... even saw one listed for £378
Good video as helped me out, but scratched my head for a while how to get the old unit out. You need a T20 torx bit and I had to put the screwdriver handle up into the roof cavity in order to undo otherwise you cant get the angle on the screw head.
I used a t-25
my mini countryman 2011 driver door will not open from inside or outside all the other doors are ok. Can you help please.
Hi! Very good video 🎉
But my mini has a weird problem, the car started to make a beep sound as i unlock or lock and now only the drivers lock will work. Do you happen to know if the body module could be faulty? And if so do I need to take it to programming or do i just swap it?
Would this work for a 2012 Mini Cooper? What is the name of the part?
i have a question so my 2003 mini cooper will only unlock with the key entry like it’s not a keyless entry anymore with both sides of the doors and i have to manually push down the lock on the passenger door and lock my door from the outside they won’t even lock when i start driving what do you think the problem would be?
Did you find out the problem? I've got the same exact problem
@@andrewducker8773 kinda same tooo, its stressing me out
Same here im thinking that maybe body module
I had a similar problem with my 2003 R50 and lived with the remote working (sometimes) for a long time. Finally I took it to a locksmith shop and they could not fix it, but they suggested a body shop. My local body shop said the problem was with the central looking box inside the drivers door. I had them replace that and it has worked perfectly since then. Of course I wanted a cheaper fix....this was $350, but I was glad just to get it fixed at all. The nearest Mini dealer is 200 miles away, and it would probably have cost a lot more to get it fixed there...2 years now, and no more lock problems....
just wish i knew what part number to use to order this?!!
I have an 05 mini cooper S with a dead battery. The key does not unlock the door when turned to a completely horizontal position and there is no feeling of resistance while turning it until I get to that horizontal stopping point. I think the lock mechanism may have an internal problem that doesn't allow the key to unlock it. Is there any other way to gain entry so I can pop the hood and charge the battery?
Did you ever unlock the car, I got the same problem, key unlocks the door but door wont open. Dead battery and cannot get in to charge it.
@@peterchapman9888 Yes, under the driver-side just behind the front wheel, you will see the main positive power cable in a sheath running from the front to the rear of the car where the battery is.
Just make a slice in the rubber sheath and hammer/tap a flathead screwdriver into the cable. Make sure the flat head is running lengthwise with the strands inside the cable so you don't sever too many.
Then attach your battery charger to the shaft of the screwdriver and the negative to any good ground point on the undercarriage. I trickle-charged it overnight and in the morning it had enough juice to operate the door locks.
Ps- I did have to use a bucket to prop up the driver or it would keep falling out. You can also use a little silicon caulking afterward to seal up the sliced sheath.
Very helpful, thank you
Great video. Have you any idea why the key fob key on this (my daughter's car- a 2016 Mini Cooper Countryman ) will automatically lower the windows with the usual long press on the remote fob open car button but refuses to send them up to close via the remote close button? No probe's if not but thanks for a brill video.
Sounds like it needs a reset. Put ignition on, lower all windows fully and keep DOWN button held down for 3-5 seconds.
Then put all windows up, this time holding the button in the UP position for 3-5 seconds once closed. (You can do all windows at once, or one at a time).
Same method works for sunroofs.
Thanks very much for this Dave, my key does exactly this. Will be ordering new part today :D
When I put my key in, no lights turn on, would this also be my solution?
No, this would only be for unlocking. Check fuses or battery level.
I lost my keys and the car won't start. Buying this key receiver with another key will that also help to start the engine ?
No, this is just a signal amplifier.
Thank you! It works again!! :)
I removed the receiver, as I’ve ordered a new one to be delivered on Wednesday. Came to my car about an hour ago and all my dash lights have stopped working. Any idea what would have caused this issue?
That’s very weird. Does the car start? Has the battery died? Have you plugged the box back in and tried again. I can’t see anyway the part can effect your dash lights, but plug it back in to check. Let me know what happens.
@@DipstickDave it had blown a fuse when taking it out. Replaced the fuse and it’s working again now, have put the old receiver back in until Wednesday when the new one arrives, will the keys or anything need reprogramming when I replace it?
That’s really good new. Odd they are on the same circuit. But I glad you found it. Nope shouldn’t need to reprogram the key, it’s only the signal booster you are replacing and not the ecu that authorises the key.
With my one, the key will still cause the lights to flash, but the doors dont unlock. Any ideas?
That’s sounds like the actuator in the doors not working. Does the boot open? It’s rare for both doors actuators (a little motor that pushes and pulls the lock mechanism, just like a turn of the key) to fail at the same time. And very in rare for the doors and boot not to open. Can you still open it with a key and start it?
@@DipstickDave thanks for the reply, the boot does unlock and open but no longer pops itself up, I can get in with the manual key alone and it will start up quite happily so its strange for it to just go. Last time I tried to unlock it with the key, the little bolts slid half way up but didnt actually unlock the door. They also would still go down if I switched the lock toggle on the dash. Now they dont move at all with the key and the switch inside the car also does nothing
When I use the key or the inside toggle I can hear a click coming from the right of the steering wheel but nothing will happen
Sounds like you’ll have to take the door cards off and have a look. It sound like the lock linkage has come off or bent or broken. Weird that both sides have gone at the same time. Maybe the lock where frozen and you unlocked the car and that caused it ????? Good luck. Let me know what it is when you find out.
I have a 2017 and I think this is my problem but the solution would be different. I also can’t start my car with the start stop lever.
Sorry I haven’t worked on a mini of your age so can’t help much. Sounds like it could be the key however is the start button isn’t working along with the locking.
What year Mini is this? Is that part in the same place on a 2008 Mini Hatch?
It’s a 2002, I don’t think it’s the same part. Sorry not sure what part you would need.
Hi David. A sensor on eBay is the correct pt number and MHz, but incorrect next number. Is this OK 👍
If the part number is the same it should be ok. But if not just throw it back on eBay.
Hi what year is your one mine is a 52 plate,I've been told mine is behind the glove box
That’s odd. I don’t think there is much behind the glove box. It should be easy to check it’s only held in with 3 screws. I think T25 head, but I might be wrong.
Oh and mine is a 2002 as well.
I just got a new mini it’s an 07 I know the key doesn’t work so if I replace that would it the need reprogramming?
It will need reprogramming. I think the 07 has the round key, so different to this one. A bit of Googling should tell you if you can do it yourself or not. Good luck.
The Mini R52 where have that signal receiver?
When change it, no need to code anything?
the receiver, will it be on the same location in a 2006 mini cooper (base mode)?
Not 100% sure. Just pop off the mirror and have a touch to hand.
thanks very much!👍
I can't find on ebay
I think this might be a common problem so they might sell quick. Set an alert and make sure you buy it before it goes.
Hi Dave,
any idea if this would work on a 2010 Clubman Cooper?
I don’t think so. I’m pretty sure the module moved to the mirror housing by that point. Sorry.
Does that mean the signal receiver is in-built in the mirror? What if I replace the mirror altogether? Thanks for yr help.
I think it is, but I’ve never looked at this on your model sorry. I would go on the forums and have a dig about. Sorry I can’t be much more help.
I changed that part, new key and still not working
Top man 👏
Could you help me to disconnect the alarm in Mini Cooper ?
Unfortunately not. Maybe a local group or club could help you.
I can see that this is for an R53 Mini.
I have an R56 Cooper S, where only one key (the spare) is problematic, in that it no longer locks or unlocks the car (it will still start it though?!). The main key works just fine.
Given that it's only one key that's buggering about, I'm thinking that it's not likely to be a signal amplifier, and is most likely to be the key (fob) itself? The batteries aren't changeable before it's suggested, as the car recharges the keys, through the fob slot, like an electric toothbrush - and I've checked that there is good charge in the fob itself (no low batt warnings on the rev counter computer when the spare fob is used to start the engine).
Hello, thanks for this. Do you know if this will work on a 2012 mini cooper s automatic convertible (62 plate)?
Dealing with this now
WHAT DID YOU DO??
I bought this receiver for my mini cooper 2006. still didn't work :(
Bummer. Do you have two keys? If both still don’t work it could be the ecu, which is a complete pain.
How do you unscrew it i cant even reach the damn screw
It’s not the easiest to get to. I have smallish hand so can get my hand in and use a Trox bit and short handles to unscrew it.
I love video!
I have a 2017 mini
No box in my wifes,2005
That’s a very personal statement. I’m sure you can get so surgery. Good look.
At some point they moved into the mirror housing.