One of the best tuning tutorials I have seen, thank you so much! A few of my boards the manufacturer referenced 0 base bevel - glad you cleared that up!
On the topic of detuning the edge. I come from ski racing, and don't do any detuning to my skis, for many people detuning gives a cushion for error before the edge begins to really grab. For many their boot fit is not tight enough/ they cannot or will not tolerate that tight of a boot, and that impacts control over the board or ski as it rides on edge. Advanced riders with tight fitting boots don't really need to worry about detuning, and as you expressed the edge feels more stable and sharper without it, but it can be to aggressive for beginner riders or those in looser fits. I like to do my detuning (when I do tuning for other people) with a hard gummy stone or a diamond stone (preferably a cheep one that you don't care about because it is hard on them) as detuning with a file is more aggressive than is necessary and takes to long to sharpen back up if you decide that you don't want the detune.
I would not enphasize enough how important Is to have good and proper sharpened edges for good ridibg. So many people out there ride boards impossible to carve with because of the horrible edges. If i can't trust my edges I start to to get contracted, and my technique messes up,It Is actually a situation where you do not consolidate tour technique, rather you get worse and you get bad feelings that store in tour nerve system , compromising everything. I can carve in Blue ICE with properly tuned edges, and I feel skidding in good snow of the edges are messed up, It makes all the differenze of the world.
I also watched the Swix videos and purchased the sidecut ceramic stone as he advises and I had all same questions as you. My dad is a chef and was explaining that it’s the same thing chefs do with a ceramic honing rod on their chef knife’s every day as it isn’t abrasive (technically it’s micro-abrasive) and it simply folds/bends the “burrs” back straight. When I’m using it on my boards, I dan definitely fold the burrs up with the stone from base edge up to the side edge, and then the diamonds take it right off. It Does seem to work.
Stoked for this one! Before this season started I knew it was time to get more serious about my tuning. I did a ton of research and decided I wanted Sidecut tuning gear. Essentially everything you showed in this video. WOW is it all ever high-quality gear. It makes the whole tuning process enjoyable and I’ve ever had nicer edges Or bases. I also got their brushes, world cup iron (Star), etc. Yea I could have bought 2 snowboards for the price but it’s totally worth it in my opinion. I also received my first Stranda, a Cheater 170w, last week. Oh man 🤤🤤🤤
One nerdy thing not adding much to the 1000 dollar equipment is the super thin base tape which should be applied on the base along the edge before running over it with the bevel guide. The bevel guide is gliding on the tape not on the waxed base. Second remark would be to use a paint brush to clean the metal files after each run through.
I've experimented with the tape and didn't like it. But yes, good point. I clean files with a brass brush after the whole board has been done. Yeah, one could do that after every pass... but man.....
I'll slowly work myself up to that $1000 tuning gear. For now I'll stick with my sub $100 waxing kit and sub $100 sharpening kit. Old used boards do need some love.
There's this tool (vola mini blade ceramic) that totally changed the finishing quality . You should try it. Finishing with this is fast and much better quality then without. From my experience , using oil or water is useless as the diamonds are less active and you have to pass more times for the same action. Just loose time for the same wear and tear of the tools.
Great video Lars, some great tips in there. Thank you. As was said previously regarding the ceramic it's what I use for deburring my chefs knives. However I generally finish them on a 4000grit stone. For a really fine edge I may use a leather strop and 16000grit for a mirror finish edge (way too much for a snowboard edge unless you want a shave too!). However the idea is the same. What I would say is that the finer/smoother the finished edge the less burr you will have and the key to minimising burr is to use lighter passes along the edge as you go to finer stones/diamonds so more passes but with less pressure is how I would tend to go.
Thanks for the video. The high level of detail is great. Love the content. Jones claims their boards come with a 0 degree base 90 degree edge. They say this is so the rider can decide what they want. If that is true this would mean that a ton of riders are out there riding 0/90 since people who casually ride usually don't bother with ever having their edges sharpened let alone having a tune done.
Wow, thank you for this video (and all the others). The idea of using ceramic for deburring is excellent. I really liked your comments about detuning inside the touchpoint. Because I really thought that it made no sense to do that with aggressive driving. But the people who sharpen in sports centers work on the assembly line for everyone. Without trying to find out if it is the needs of each client. This is why doing it yourself is the best solution. Thanks again and have a good season!
@@lukedowney8441 from what I'm seeing when tuning them, yes. Possibly 1.2° or so... Doesn't matter. As long as there's a base bevel, you can ride the snowboard. ;-)
Thank you for this! I think I watched the same SWIX clinic about the ceramic stone. Never thought about rounding the nose and tail edges though.... going to try it. Have you considered doing a wax video? Specifically how to hold the iron and the multiple edges and bevels they have? Once I started I was always overheating the board, but turned the iron up maybe 3-5°C above the wax melting point and that made a difference. Still heats tip and tail more than the rest but usually less material there to disperse heat I assume. But how to hold to iron and get the wax to flow and shift in the direction I want is still a nuance. Maybe the drip method or application quantity is incorrect? Too much or too little wax perhaps? We nerds would love a wax/iron nerd-out video please!
Thank you for this video, very informative. I guess I have one of those boards without base bevel at home. My wife's Lib Tech Cortado, bought this year. She was riding it the whole week and did not complain. I don't get it :)
Interesting!! Did you check it, or is that an assumption? Without meaning to diss Mervin, their factory edge tune is one of the worst in the industry. It never bothered me, as I'd just fix that... But yeah, I wouldn't be overly surprised to hear that they forgot the base bevel or simply don't apply one. But then again, it is also very possible that it's a one-off!! These things do happen. Luckily it's a rocker board! Hahaha... :-)
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Yeah, I did check. I put a straight object agains the base of the board and egde touches it on the whole width. But now I have knowledge - thank you - how to fix it. I will practice on my old boad first ;)
Hi Lars, can you give some advice about how to correctly tune the side edge of a splitboard with some kind of magnetraction technology? Thanks for your help and amazing channel !!!
Thank you, very detailed explanation! How to deal with very damaged base bevels? Do I need to cut it until groves are not visible or just remove burst?
12mins 10 secs, a message for manufacturers saying that their boards don't have base bevel..... Great video, simple, but if people follow your clear instructions then 90% of boards with ride better than when they left the factory.
Would even a 240 grit diamond stone get damaged by case hardening? If so, What coarse is the aluminium oxide stone? Will a knife sharpening block do? Hard to find a small one like that.
Just starting the vid, looks very useful so far! Nicholas at Korua had a cheap sidewall trimming trick using the handle of his file in his tuning vid to scrape it down. Wondering what the pitfalls are for messing up your side wall?
It can become kinda rutted and not smooth. It's not the end of the world, but looks terrible and drags in the snow. I've seen his video, actually! Good little tip.
Regarding the side wall remover. I always had the impression that when you file the side edge and the edge is already on the same level like the sidewall, and then you file the edge you obviously remove/file the side wall anyway? Of course you will have some plastics on the file, but this can be cleaned.
Depends on the sidewall material.... Mostly it starts messing with your file touching the edge. I have hardly seen it any other way. You can tell when your file just slides along without cutting...
Another cracking video, thank you Lars! I came for the detune tips and found the post contact point rounding explanation really helpful. I have a new Biru which I will be hitting the slopes with for the first time on Saturday. Aside from maybe detuning the nose and tail do you have any other Stranda/Biru specific tips? Should I get it in for a wax ASAP? I couldn't find any info on the Stranda site as to factory wax quality etc.
Thanks man!! Yes, wax that board.... Ideally twice, haha! Factory wax is mostly applied with a quick hot wax roll. It doesn't get ironed in properly, so a high end base like the one on the Biru is by no means saturated. You don't HAVE TO wax it instantly, but personally I'd highly recommend that.
Got my board back from a service with more dull edges than before :S having to learn how to do it myself. Tbh, it’s all rather confusing.i thought we were suppose to discard the aggressive files and stick just to diamond stones? Is there a simple version of this video for the core essentials? I’m kind of paranoid now of accidentally altering the base edge when deburring. I was planning to use gummy stones for rust and burrs then diamond stones in a tool for the sharpening.
Sorry, no simple fix. It would take 20 times of deburring to alter the base bevel to a significant degree. Just be gentle. Doing edges well is not a simple thing. Doing them badly, however, can be done in minutes.
I am experiencing confusion, hoping the community can help out. my wife and I have some new boards and I am going to start waxing and keeping our edges sharp. The confusion is that I'm also getting told to leave the edges of the snow board alone all I want to do is keep a crisp edge not change the angle or any of that. We board in Tahoe CA area our snow is more often icy or in spring slushy. should I be maintaining the edge sharpness or it is not needed?
Very informative as always, thank you for posting. Some boards (like many of the Jones lineup) have three subtle bumps in the side cut. Would this change your technique or would you have any specific recommendations to sharpen these boards?
All the same. If the bumps are too deep to get a file in there, you'll need to insert the file into the tool at an angle that minimizes file surface touching edge. Jones is fine. Mervin boards often need that, and Rossignol. That's all. Good luck!!
After watching your video, i was wondering if you ever trie different base or edge angle on the heel side vs toe side, to do similar as asymetric side cut, to have more or less grip on the heel side?
Never! I believe that the rider creates the grip! Anything asym is there to help with heel turns, because they're so much harder due to the way the body is made... It's never been for me. The tight heel radii on those boards always threw me off. Great question!!
Tnks you so much for this tutorial!!! Just a question, I have two Stranda boards (Cheater and Shorty) Can I use 2° for both? I have just to polish with diamond stone to keep the edge sharpe? I don't know wich angle is set-up from manufacture. Tnks
You should do a tune in your desired angle and from then on touch up with the same tool and a diamond stone. Factory is 88°, but it’s never 100% accurate.
What are your thoughts on the way Salomon tunes their edges. They say 1 degree in the tip and tail, and 2 between the feet. I can’t imagine the point of that.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel it says 1 degree bevel and 2 degrees between the feet. I always assumed they meant base but yeah it would make sense if they were talking edge i guess.
Thank you for the great content you share with us. I have some doubts when you mention how to remove rock damage with the aluminum oxide stone. If I have been freeriding often the base of the edge is full of damage. When the damage is slightly deep if I try to remove completly the damage it will wear out a lot of edge. Is this inevitable or in this kind of situation you let some of the damage in the edge? Also I have the question because you mention that the less we work on the base bevel the better. I recently bought the Stranda Cheater. I hope I use it for the first time this week.
When there's material missing in the edge, you can't fix that without a deep grind. So at that stage I accept it and simply remove anything that is sticking out and would damage my iron. Freeriding means rock damage.... it is what it is... :-) Stranda Cheater comes with 1° base bevel. Great board!!!
The key is to insert the file into the file guide in a way that makes for only a short section of the file touching the edge. That's a matter of the angle and depth at which you insert the file. If the file section that actually cuts is too long, you won't get in between the magnetraction bumps.
Especially with the older, more aggressive magne traction, you may have to go completely sideways, ie. 90 degrees to the guide - which obviously only works for diamond stones, not metal files. Other than that, there also is the SKS Swing-Cut tool. It works great for the side edge, there is tungsten hard metal file bits for it that cuts through the steel edge like butter and even a hard sidewall. Drawback is the limited selection of matching diamond stones that take longer to change then with a file guide.
Thanks for the video! Jones claims all of their boards are 0/90 from the factory, do you have any experience with what are the actual angles they come with then? Do you think boards with 3d spooning can be ridden fine with 0 base bevel due to spoon acting as a base bevel effectively?
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I just messaged them because I thought this was interesting too. On their site they say it's at 0 so you can do whatever you want to it, which makes a certain kind of sense. I'll post again on here when they get back to me. Per usual, super stoked to see another of your videos Lars, really helping me take my boarding to the next level!
@@nicodemus1828384 Aahhh! Okay! THAT is an entirely different story!! If the company chooses to do it that wat, that's great! BUT they HAVE TO TELL customers about it right on every snowboard with a big exclamation mark! :-) I think it's a great approach. But very few people even understand what to do from there....
In the comments of some other video on this channel I reported what I measured on two Jones Freecarvers right out of wrapper with the sharpie method and proper file guides - one was 89/1 and the other 88/2.
thank you for an incredibly helpful video. i have the nitro woodcarver and i can't figure out the base angle. customer service says it's zero degrees but per your pt, that's not the case. tried the sharpie test and didn't come off at one degree and am afraid to go further so as not to detune. any idea what the base angle is? thanks a million.
what i mean is in your experience have you seen nitro or other boards come from factory with an 86 degree base angle? thank you, aagin. @@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel
Great video! I won't let anyone put my board in those pesky tuning machines, so i will definitely use it. How do you decide on the right edge degree? I am intermediate, ride allmountain on groomers, flat top board.
Depends on your conditions and what you want.... and on board width... Boards relatively wide compared to your foot can have a greater base bevel to get them on edge easier.... Hard question to answer.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Well thanks for trying! But just to be sure: I wanted to ask about the edge angle - the thing that you are talking about at 16:30 of the video (88° on the board you are tuning), not the base bevel angle (I am way too inexperienced to mess with that!). I hope it's an easier thing to explain to a tuning newbie. Conditions and what I want: early spring, riding on groomers, just progressing and learning new things, including the basics of carving. From my edge I want control and grip. Board is relatively narrow compared to my foot. I am not quite sure what physics are behind the edge angles, what changes if I go 90°/89°/88°?
@@Antrios93 88 is performance carving, 89 is a little less sharp, less aggressive and more suitable for a less experienced all round rider. 90 is IMO somewhat nonsense, considering that the base is at 1°... which makes it a pretty dull edge overall.
As often as you think it needs it... Depends on how and where you right in what conditions.... Edges wear out, as in: become dull. Riding firm slopes accelerates that. It really is up to you. I do it a lot.... I carve a lot... :-) Like, at least after every five rides on any given board, likely more often. Just a quick touch up with diamond stones.
Depends on how often you ride, what conditions you ride in and how much you prioritize sharp edges. I touch up edges at least every five rides on a given board. I only do a quick diamond stone treatment then. When conditions require perfectly sharp edges, I do it after every ride...
One thing portrayed to me is that it is better to do a little often to maintain the edge in good shape, then having to do more less often to get it back to good shape.
If you're only using diamond stones and not removing material (which is only made necessary by edge damage), you can tune your edges as much as you like. Everytime you wax, or even more if you like
Its possible that they do it on purpose so the buyer can then do whatever they want to the board! BUT that needs to be stated right on the board, and very few people would even understand what they're talking about...
It is stated on the info sheet attached to the board, and their intention is to give a blank sheet to tune to your taste. So I gave it a 1 degree beveled.
Thank you. This is something that I few tunning shops should watch.
Thank you kindly! :-)
One of the best tuning tutorials I have seen, thank you so much! A few of my boards the manufacturer referenced 0 base bevel - glad you cleared that up!
On the topic of detuning the edge. I come from ski racing, and don't do any detuning to my skis, for many people detuning gives a cushion for error before the edge begins to really grab. For many their boot fit is not tight enough/ they cannot or will not tolerate that tight of a boot, and that impacts control over the board or ski as it rides on edge. Advanced riders with tight fitting boots don't really need to worry about detuning, and as you expressed the edge feels more stable and sharper without it, but it can be to aggressive for beginner riders or those in looser fits. I like to do my detuning (when I do tuning for other people) with a hard gummy stone or a diamond stone (preferably a cheep one that you don't care about because it is hard on them) as detuning with a file is more aggressive than is necessary and takes to long to sharpen back up if you decide that you don't want the detune.
Thanks!
Thank you! That is very kind of you!!
Soooo nice! I wish this tuto was available to me earlier, I would saved myself lots of mistakes...thank you so much
Thank you very much! Next time will be better ;-)
I would not enphasize enough how important Is to have good and proper sharpened edges for good ridibg. So many people out there ride boards impossible to carve with because of the horrible edges. If i can't trust my edges I start to to get contracted, and my technique messes up,It Is actually a situation where you do not consolidate tour technique, rather you get worse and you get bad feelings that store in tour nerve system , compromising everything. I can carve in Blue ICE with properly tuned edges, and I feel skidding in good snow of the edges are messed up, It makes all the differenze of the world.
I also watched the Swix videos and purchased the sidecut ceramic stone as he advises and I had all same questions as you. My dad is a chef and was explaining that it’s the same thing chefs do with a ceramic honing rod on their chef knife’s every day as it isn’t abrasive (technically it’s micro-abrasive) and it simply folds/bends the “burrs” back straight.
When I’m using it on my boards, I dan definitely fold the burrs up with the stone from base edge up to the side edge, and then the diamonds take it right off. It Does seem to work.
Stoked for this one! Before this season started I knew it was time to get more serious about my tuning. I did a ton of research and decided I wanted Sidecut tuning gear. Essentially everything you showed in this video. WOW is it all ever high-quality gear. It makes the whole tuning process enjoyable and I’ve ever had nicer edges Or bases. I also got their brushes, world cup iron (Star), etc. Yea I could have bought 2 snowboards for the price but it’s totally worth it in my opinion.
I also received my first Stranda, a Cheater 170w, last week. Oh man 🤤🤤🤤
You’re basically set! 😂🙌❤️
You did exactly the same what I did. I bought the same Stranda board and the Sidecut tuning tool.
@@magistradox39 haha nice! Hope you’re enjoying it as much as I am. Lars knows what’s up.
Great video , thank you!!👌🙏👊🏂
One nerdy thing not adding much to the 1000 dollar equipment is the super thin base tape which should be applied on the base along the edge before running over it with the bevel guide. The bevel guide is gliding on the tape not on the waxed base.
Second remark would be to use a paint brush to clean the metal files after each run through.
I've experimented with the tape and didn't like it. But yes, good point.
I clean files with a brass brush after the whole board has been done.
Yeah, one could do that after every pass... but man.....
I'll slowly work myself up to that $1000 tuning gear. For now I'll stick with my sub $100 waxing kit and sub $100 sharpening kit. Old used boards do need some love.
There's this tool (vola mini blade ceramic) that totally changed the finishing quality . You should try it. Finishing with this is fast and much better quality then without. From my experience , using oil or water is useless as the diamonds are less active and you have to pass more times for the same action. Just loose time for the same wear and tear of the tools.
Great info!! Thank you!
Great video Lars, some great tips in there. Thank you.
As was said previously regarding the ceramic it's what I use for deburring my chefs knives. However I generally finish them on a 4000grit stone. For a really fine edge I may use a leather strop and 16000grit for a mirror finish edge (way too much for a snowboard edge unless you want a shave too!). However the idea is the same. What I would say is that the finer/smoother the finished edge the less burr you will have and the key to minimising burr is to use lighter passes along the edge as you go to finer stones/diamonds so more passes but with less pressure is how I would tend to go.
Fantastic pro tips here! Thank you!
Thanks for the video. The high level of detail is great. Love the content.
Jones claims their boards come with a 0 degree base 90 degree edge. They say this is so the rider can decide what they want. If that is true this would mean that a ton of riders are out there riding 0/90 since people who casually ride usually don't bother with ever having their edges sharpened let alone having a tune done.
Like he said, they say that but on the jones boards I have owned, that is not true.
I have yet to tune a Jones board that came from the factory without a base bevel. I’ve owned about 6 myself.
Same on Amplid boards. 0/90 the factory settings, however the 3D shaping in the nose helps a lot.
Wow, thank you for this video (and all the others).
The idea of using ceramic for deburring is excellent.
I really liked your comments about detuning inside the touchpoint. Because I really thought that it made no sense to do that with aggressive driving. But the people who sharpen in sports centers work on the assembly line for everyone. Without trying to find out if it is the needs of each client.
This is why doing it yourself is the best solution.
Thanks again and have a good season!
Thanks so much!!
Both Jones and Never Summer state: 90°/0° on the base.
Well, Jones are clearly wrong. Never tuned a new NS board, but many Jones's.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel that's good to know. It didn't make much sense to me.
Are Jones boards 1 degree?
@@lukedowney8441 from what I'm seeing when tuning them, yes. Possibly 1.2° or so... Doesn't matter. As long as there's a base bevel, you can ride the snowboard. ;-)
Thank you for this! I think I watched the same SWIX clinic about the ceramic stone. Never thought about rounding the nose and tail edges though.... going to try it.
Have you considered doing a wax video? Specifically how to hold the iron and the multiple edges and bevels they have? Once I started I was always overheating the board, but turned the iron up maybe 3-5°C above the wax melting point and that made a difference. Still heats tip and tail more than the rest but usually less material there to disperse heat I assume. But how to hold to iron and get the wax to flow and shift in the direction I want is still a nuance. Maybe the drip method or application quantity is incorrect? Too much or too little wax perhaps? We nerds would love a wax/iron nerd-out video please!
Yeah, I'll do a waxing video sooner or later. There's my storage wax video already from last spring, which has some stuff in it.
Thank you for this video, very informative. I guess I have one of those boards without base bevel at home. My wife's Lib Tech Cortado, bought this year. She was riding it the whole week and did not complain. I don't get it :)
Interesting!! Did you check it, or is that an assumption?
Without meaning to diss Mervin, their factory edge tune is one of the worst in the industry. It never bothered me, as I'd just fix that... But yeah, I wouldn't be overly surprised to hear that they forgot the base bevel or simply don't apply one. But then again, it is also very possible that it's a one-off!! These things do happen.
Luckily it's a rocker board! Hahaha... :-)
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Yeah, I did check. I put a straight object agains the base of the board and egde touches it on the whole width. But now I have knowledge - thank you - how to fix it. I will practice on my old boad first ;)
Hi Lars, can you give some advice about how to correctly tune the side edge of a splitboard with some kind of magnetraction technology? Thanks for your help and amazing channel !!!
Same as in the video!
Thank you, very detailed explanation! How to deal with very damaged base bevels? Do I need to cut it until groves are not visible or just remove burst?
Get a base grind done from an experienced shop.
Thank you
12mins 10 secs, a message for manufacturers saying that their boards don't have base bevel.....
Great video, simple, but if people follow your clear instructions then 90% of boards with ride better than when they left the factory.
Thanks Mike! That’s the goal! 🙌
I just want to remind people to do the youtube stuff: Like, Comment, Subscribe!
Would even a 240 grit diamond stone get damaged by case hardening? If so, What coarse is the aluminium oxide stone? Will a knife sharpening block do? Hard to find a small one like that.
240 should work. Many passes, little pressure.
Endeavor have 0 degree base bevel out of the factory. I’ve taken my brand new board to my local tuner for a 1/2 edge tune.
Just starting the vid, looks very useful so far! Nicholas at Korua had a cheap sidewall trimming trick using the handle of his file in his tuning vid to scrape it down. Wondering what the pitfalls are for messing up your side wall?
It can become kinda rutted and not smooth. It's not the end of the world, but looks terrible and drags in the snow. I've seen his video, actually! Good little tip.
Regarding the side wall remover. I always had the impression that when you file the side edge and the edge is already on the same level like the sidewall, and then you file the edge you obviously remove/file the side wall anyway? Of course you will have some plastics on the file, but this can be cleaned.
Depends on the sidewall material.... Mostly it starts messing with your file touching the edge. I have hardly seen it any other way. You can tell when your file just slides along without cutting...
Another cracking video, thank you Lars! I came for the detune tips and found the post contact point rounding explanation really helpful.
I have a new Biru which I will be hitting the slopes with for the first time on Saturday. Aside from maybe detuning the nose and tail do you have any other Stranda/Biru specific tips? Should I get it in for a wax ASAP? I couldn't find any info on the Stranda site as to factory wax quality etc.
Thanks man!! Yes, wax that board.... Ideally twice, haha! Factory wax is mostly applied with a quick hot wax roll. It doesn't get ironed in properly, so a high end base like the one on the Biru is by no means saturated. You don't HAVE TO wax it instantly, but personally I'd highly recommend that.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel very good to know, thank you!
Got my board back from a service with more dull edges than before :S having to learn how to do it myself. Tbh, it’s all rather confusing.i thought we were suppose to discard the aggressive files and stick just to diamond stones? Is there a simple version of this video for the core essentials? I’m kind of paranoid now of accidentally altering the base edge when deburring. I was planning to use gummy stones for rust and burrs then diamond stones in a tool for the sharpening.
Sorry, no simple fix. It would take 20 times of deburring to alter the base bevel to a significant degree. Just be gentle. Doing edges well is not a simple thing. Doing them badly, however, can be done in minutes.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel thanks, appreciated
I am experiencing confusion, hoping the community can help out. my wife and I have some new boards and I am going to start waxing and keeping our edges sharp. The confusion is that I'm also getting told to leave the edges of the snow board alone all I want to do is keep a crisp edge not change the angle or any of that. We board in Tahoe CA area our snow is more often icy or in spring slushy. should I be maintaining the edge sharpness or it is not needed?
100% learn to tune your edges. Utter nonsense not to. Have fun doing it and enjoy the benefits of a smooth and sharp edge!
Very informative as always, thank you for posting. Some boards (like many of the Jones lineup) have three subtle bumps in the side cut. Would this change your technique or would you have any specific recommendations to sharpen these boards?
All the same. If the bumps are too deep to get a file in there, you'll need to insert the file into the tool at an angle that minimizes file surface touching edge. Jones is fine. Mervin boards often need that, and Rossignol.
That's all. Good luck!!
After watching your video, i was wondering if you ever trie different base or edge angle on the heel side vs toe side, to do similar as asymetric side cut, to have more or less grip on the heel side?
Never! I believe that the rider creates the grip! Anything asym is there to help with heel turns, because they're so much harder due to the way the body is made... It's never been for me. The tight heel radii on those boards always threw me off. Great question!!
Tnks you so much for this tutorial!!! Just a question, I have two Stranda boards (Cheater and Shorty) Can I use 2° for both? I have just to polish with diamond stone to keep the edge sharpe? I don't know wich angle is set-up from manufacture. Tnks
You should do a tune in your desired angle and from then on touch up with the same tool and a diamond stone. Factory is 88°, but it’s never 100% accurate.
What are your thoughts on the way Salomon tunes their edges. They say 1 degree in the tip and tail, and 2 between the feet. I can’t imagine the point of that.
And that is regarding the base bevel?? Yeah, in that case that would be a bit weird.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel it says 1 degree bevel and 2 degrees between the feet. I always assumed they meant base but yeah it would make sense if they were talking edge i guess.
Thank you for the great content you share with us. I have some doubts when you mention how to remove rock damage with the aluminum oxide stone. If I have been freeriding often the base of the edge is full of damage. When the damage is slightly deep if I try to remove completly the damage it will wear out a lot of edge. Is this inevitable or in this kind of situation you let some of the damage in the edge? Also I have the question because you mention that the less we work on the base bevel the better. I recently bought the Stranda Cheater. I hope I use it for the first time this week.
When there's material missing in the edge, you can't fix that without a deep grind. So at that stage I accept it and simply remove anything that is sticking out and would damage my iron. Freeriding means rock damage.... it is what it is... :-)
Stranda Cheater comes with 1° base bevel. Great board!!!
Yeah you don’t remove to low spots, you remove the high spots.
really nice video on snowboard tuning!
whats your take on sharpening magnetraction boards? would you do anything different?
The key is to insert the file into the file guide in a way that makes for only a short section of the file touching the edge. That's a matter of the angle and depth at which you insert the file. If the file section that actually cuts is too long, you won't get in between the magnetraction bumps.
Especially with the older, more aggressive magne traction, you may have to go completely sideways, ie. 90 degrees to the guide - which obviously only works for diamond stones, not metal files.
Other than that, there also is the SKS Swing-Cut tool. It works great for the side edge, there is tungsten hard metal file bits for it that cuts through the steel edge like butter and even a hard sidewall. Drawback is the limited selection of matching diamond stones that take longer to change then with a file guide.
Thanks for the video! Jones claims all of their boards are 0/90 from the factory, do you have any experience with what are the actual angles they come with then? Do you think boards with 3d spooning can be ridden fine with 0 base bevel due to spoon acting as a base bevel effectively?
Ask them. Trust me, it’s not 0°. Some office person wrote that… not Jeremy. It’s impossible!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I just messaged them because I thought this was interesting too. On their site they say it's at 0 so you can do whatever you want to it, which makes a certain kind of sense. I'll post again on here when they get back to me.
Per usual, super stoked to see another of your videos Lars, really helping me take my boarding to the next level!
@@nicodemus1828384 Aahhh! Okay! THAT is an entirely different story!!
If the company chooses to do it that wat, that's great! BUT they HAVE TO TELL customers about it right on every snowboard with a big exclamation mark! :-)
I think it's a great approach. But very few people even understand what to do from there....
In the comments of some other video on this channel I reported what I measured on two Jones Freecarvers right out of wrapper with the sharpie method and proper file guides - one was 89/1 and the other 88/2.
@@elho001 Yup!! Love tis story! Again! :-)
What do you think of the Tools 4 Boards Rolling Pin system for sharpening?
Not sure I’m familiar.
thank you for an incredibly helpful video. i have the nitro woodcarver and i can't figure out the base angle. customer service says it's zero degrees but per your pt, that's not the case. tried the sharpie test and didn't come off at one degree and am afraid to go further so as not to detune. any idea what the base angle is? thanks a million.
If it didn't come off at 1°, it is greater than 1°... That is unfortunately all I can say.
If it's greater than 1 degree is that possible that the factory base angle could be greater than 1? thank you, aagain. @@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel
@@JP-zy1mt well, yes, of course.
what i mean is in your experience have you seen nitro or other boards come from factory with an 86 degree base angle? thank you, aagin. @@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel
@@JP-zy1mt that doesn’t exist. What do mean???
Where do you get your aluminum oxide stones from? Looking for a cheap source!
Tough one..... I order directly from tuning suppliers, because I have that tuning business... Not sure who has those, sorry!! Local ski shop??
Great video! I won't let anyone put my board in those pesky tuning machines, so i will definitely use it. How do you decide on the right edge degree? I am intermediate, ride allmountain on groomers, flat top board.
Depends on your conditions and what you want.... and on board width... Boards relatively wide compared to your foot can have a greater base bevel to get them on edge easier.... Hard question to answer.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Well thanks for trying! But just to be sure: I wanted to ask about the edge angle - the thing that you are talking about at 16:30 of the video (88° on the board you are tuning), not the base bevel angle (I am way too inexperienced to mess with that!). I hope it's an easier thing to explain to a tuning newbie.
Conditions and what I want: early spring, riding on groomers, just progressing and learning new things, including the basics of carving. From my edge I want control and grip. Board is relatively narrow compared to my foot. I am not quite sure what physics are behind the edge angles, what changes if I go 90°/89°/88°?
@@Antrios93 88 is performance carving, 89 is a little less sharp, less aggressive and more suitable for a less experienced all round rider. 90 is IMO somewhat nonsense, considering that the base is at 1°... which makes it a pretty dull edge overall.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thank you for sharing all that knowledge! You are a snowboard world's treasure
@@Antrios93 hahaha, well... thank you! There are much greater treasures out there ;-)
Does Buru have 89 degree side by default? asking because I got one recently and planning to tune it soon
88° on Strandas!
How do I clean up scratches on my base edge?
If you want it fully cleaned up, you will need a base grind with a machine... By hand you can only remove the high spots, not the low spots.
How often do you suggest sharpen your side edges?
As often as you think it needs it...
Depends on how and where you right in what conditions....
Edges wear out, as in: become dull. Riding firm slopes accelerates that.
It really is up to you. I do it a lot.... I carve a lot... :-) Like, at least after every five rides on any given board, likely more often. Just a quick touch up with diamond stones.
How often should you sharpen edges in season?
Depends on how often you ride, what conditions you ride in and how much you prioritize sharp edges. I touch up edges at least every five rides on a given board. I only do a quick diamond stone treatment then. When conditions require perfectly sharp edges, I do it after every ride...
One thing portrayed to me is that it is better to do a little often to maintain the edge in good shape, then having to do more less often to get it back to good shape.
If you're only using diamond stones and not removing material (which is only made necessary by edge damage), you can tune your edges as much as you like. Everytime you wax, or even more if you like
Slight mistake at 11:46 - actually, we are big nerds! 😂
Can you believe that my Amplid Big Kahuna came with no beveled ! 90 / 90 !!!! Big disappointment !
Did you check, or did they say that?
Its possible that they do it on purpose so the buyer can then do whatever they want to the board! BUT that needs to be stated right on the board, and very few people would even understand what they're talking about...
It is stated on the info sheet attached to the board, and their intention is to give a blank sheet to tune to your taste. So I gave it a 1 degree beveled.
Thanks!
Legend! Thank YOU! My pleasure!!