I was looking for some tuning tips and I wanted to refresh my tuning kit. Got both issues solved in one video! I hadn’t heard of a Panzer file before so I just ordered one. Thanks, Ski Dad! (I noticed the two pairs of boards for the Ski Kids in the background. Loved it!)
Great info! Best and most efficient ski tune video out there! Will you please list all the tools you use...I'd like to get the exact same set-up for my ski team! Cheers
I like the swix 15 cm 20 tpcm fine cut file. The 100mm stones (200,400,600,1000 grit), and the soft gummy stone. I also like the swix base bevel guide from the “prepping and shaping a new ski” video and the swix file guide
Of course Brooke. I tune my skis like this ~40 times before taking them to a ski shop for a grind. With regular tuning and consistent waxing the need to get the skis ground goes way down. Of course each time to use the diamonds on the base you are increasing the base bevel, that is why I start with the 400 grit and am very light. ✌️
Do you mean wax? I wax often If you are talking about filing the base edge, I do that when I prep the skis initially, I made a video about that as well
Wow, thank you for you reply, I didn’t think I would get one and so quick!!! Thank you!! Yes it was the bases of the skis, so I will try and find that other video clip of yours Much appreciated!!!!!
Thats gold! I always struggled with freshly sharpened ski. Especially on man made snow. No burr at all, just smooth razor sharp edge. So ski can be too sharp right? I also noticed that edge polished with 1000 grit diamond is not so easy to detune with gummi :) do you detune whole rocker lenght? Why?
Yes, if a ski is too sharp it can feel like it gets "stuck" in the snow, or it can feel unstable, catching at the tip or tail randomly. On the rockered skis, I am generally skiing softer snow so that is the main reason I detune them more. I still like to have a good grip under my feet on all skis then I detune the skis progressively towards the tip and tail till they are close to dull.
my local ski shop tuned my 2021 Volkl Deacons to 1/88. I found it difficult to figure out the original angles. I think they were 0.75/87.4. Any suggestions? Do you think I will notice a difference?
I am having an issue with getting the edges sharp. I can get it all sharp except for the widest part of ski at the top and tail, but especially the tip. Any guidance on how I can get these parts sharp?
First: have you shaped the ski? ua-cam.com/video/Vs8K2nJs2BE/v-deo.htmlsi=IPI7DH48eMRQFQ_l I made a how to video about that Second: you may need to file through the factory machines imperfections at both the tip and tail. Just keep pulling sidewall and second edge until you can get the edge filed to the edge angle you want. It may take a while…
The edge is beveled at .75 so if you are gentile and accurate, in theory the stone will not touch the base. Obviously you can’t be perfect, so if you do hit the base with the stone that’s why it’s important to wipe the edge with a towel after every set
I think it’s a good thing to do however not necessary. I tried it for a bit and it just made the tuning process take longer. I like the tune I get with dry stones and don’t see a need to lubricate.
3 degrees is pretty standard for carving skis. Some racers even go 4 degrees. 2 degrees is typical of all mountain skis. The higher the degree, the more grip you will have but will also need more skill in piloting the ski.
Basically I like to detune in a direct relationship to the rocker. Fully sharp in the camber and once the rocker begins, gradually/progressively detune from that point up to the tip. I still like a little grip up in the rocker for when I’m laying the ski over and pulling radius
I'm curious on your take with the base edge. I live in NH, we ski a lot of hard snow(ice) here. I have two pair of Atomic Redster S9's. Yesterday I skied the newer pair as the snow is good, no rocks to hit yet after 7 hours of constant carving the skis edges are pretty chewed up. Do you ever use a file on the base edge as well as the side? At some point today I'll get out to my shop and start the tuning process. My tool selection is pretty much what you have only my finest diamond stone is 600. Thanks
@@skidadTV Thank you the base edge is always a mystery to me. I have them set a .75 others I know do .5, some racers are a .25. They all mention sharpening/stoning the side edge, but never say much about sharpening the base
@@kenchester3072 I'd stay away from the base edge unless it's rusted. No matter how careful you are, you are removing material. And every time you do that the ski will get progressively looser, it doesn't matter how careful you are. You can of course restore the correct base edge angle with a base grind.
@@bearclaw5115 I'm picking up my two pair of carving skis from a base grind and tune at a nearby ski shop. The tech doing the work said the same. Leave the base edge alone.
I’ve been tuning skis for decades, but I was curious as to why: 1. You didn’t deburr the edges with a diamond stone (case hardening can be brutal on the tuning files); and, 2. Do you always use diamond stones dry (no oil, or 50/50 water/alcohol mix)? Otherwise, we have a pretty similar technique. I barely detune here in the Ice Coast. I lived out West for a while, and I missed the frozen junk we get here on the East Coast; worst snow on Earth, and I love it. Thanks for the video.
If I don’t hit any rocks, I just go straight to the file. If it hit some rocks while skiing I use the 100 grit stone to get rid of the case hardening prior to using the file. I have always used dry stones, the main reason being that when I use a lubricant my hands get wet and slippery. This makes slipping an issue and I don’t want to cut my thumb, again… also with wet stones my hands get soft and my hands get beat up when I check the edge for sharpness. Dry stones wear out faster than wet ones for sure, but they get the ski sharp and I’m used to the feel of it. Great questions. Both points are the “correct” way to do it. But, you don’t always have to do what they say…
That makes sense; no rocks hit, no coarse diamond stone. I believe that the best technique is what actually works best for you, and dry diamond stones fit perfectly in your workflow. I have a hybrid method for mounting bindings: paper template + jig; the best of both worlds. And yet, again, this is not the orthodox way, but it works perfectly for me, specially with STH2’s and Pívot 15’s and 18’s. There are some ski tuning videos on UA-cam (a lot of them range from mediocre to must avoid at all costs), but I think your video is the most realistic and concise. Keep up the good work!
Would be great to have links to your favorite equipment shown in this video!
I recommend a gummistone to everybody. Especially after a stone grind service or with brand new skis. Most shops do not even detune the shovel.
Coming from a 57-year-old getting back into Racing after 40 years I really appreciate this channel. Keep up the good work
Racing at 57? Where?!
Really helpful video, thank you!! What did you mean by the "second edge" when you were using the panzer file?
The second edge is the sheet of metal just above the actual edge of the ski
I was looking for some tuning tips and I wanted to refresh my tuning kit. Got both issues solved in one video! I hadn’t heard of a Panzer file before so I just ordered one. Thanks, Ski Dad! (I noticed the two pairs of boards for the Ski Kids in the background. Loved it!)
Nice technique, great vibe - quietly inspiring. Thanks.
Happy it resonated, that’s all I could hope for
Great info! Best and most efficient ski tune video out there! Will you please list all the tools you use...I'd like to get the exact same set-up for my ski team! Cheers
I like the swix 15 cm 20 tpcm fine cut file. The 100mm stones (200,400,600,1000 grit), and the soft gummy stone.
I also like the swix base bevel guide from the “prepping and shaping a new ski” video and the swix file guide
That's good maintenance tuning, but you still need to grind to maintain that base edge and structure
Of course Brooke. I tune my skis like this ~40 times before taking them to a ski shop for a grind.
With regular tuning and consistent waxing the need to get the skis ground goes way down.
Of course each time to use the diamonds on the base you are increasing the base bevel, that is why I start with the 400 grit and am very light. ✌️
Do you only do the edges and never the bases??
Great video, thank you!!!
Do you mean wax?
I wax often
If you are talking about filing the base edge, I do that when I prep the skis initially, I made a video about that as well
Wow, thank you for you reply, I didn’t think I would get one and so quick!!! Thank you!!
Yes it was the bases of the skis, so I will try and find that other video clip of yours
Much appreciated!!!!!
Nice work! Great tutorial. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Them skis look fast
Never knew about the Panzer file. Scratchy skis be gone!
Thats gold! I always struggled with freshly sharpened ski. Especially on man made snow. No burr at all, just smooth razor sharp edge. So ski can be too sharp right? I also noticed that edge polished with 1000 grit diamond is not so easy to detune with gummi :) do you detune whole rocker lenght? Why?
Yes, if a ski is too sharp it can feel like it gets "stuck" in the snow, or it can feel unstable, catching at the tip or tail randomly. On the rockered skis, I am generally skiing softer snow so that is the main reason I detune them more. I still like to have a good grip under my feet on all skis then I detune the skis progressively towards the tip and tail till they are close to dull.
@@skidadTV stuck is a good description. Especially for sl prepared 0.5/87 :D Thanks!
my local ski shop tuned my 2021 Volkl Deacons to 1/88. I found it difficult to figure out the original angles. I think they were 0.75/87.4. Any suggestions? Do you think I will notice a difference?
I’m sure they will be fine. 1/2 (base/side) is the standard.
I am having an issue with getting the edges sharp. I can get it all sharp except for the widest part of ski at the top and tail, but especially the tip.
Any guidance on how I can get these parts sharp?
First: have you shaped the ski?
ua-cam.com/video/Vs8K2nJs2BE/v-deo.htmlsi=IPI7DH48eMRQFQ_l
I made a how to video about that
Second: you may need to file through the factory machines imperfections at both the tip and tail. Just keep pulling sidewall and second edge until you can get the edge filed to the edge angle you want. It may take a while…
this is great info, would you make a list of tools needed for this tunning? files, sanding grit etc. thank you! GREAT INFO!!
The tools are all listed at the beginning
Just order from your preferred online dealer or local shop. I do not have an affiliation at this time
thank you!!@@skidadTV
You don't feel the need to wet the diamond stone? I've always used mine wet.
I believe wet is better for the stone and the edge. I have always gone dry however because my hand does not get soft from being wet 🤷
i am wondering if the diamond stone would damage the base of the ski when rubbing it on the bottom.
The edge is beveled at .75 so if you are gentile and accurate, in theory the stone will not touch the base.
Obviously you can’t be perfect, so if you do hit the base with the stone that’s why it’s important to wipe the edge with a towel after every set
What tune kit do you recommend or buying products individually?
I piece it together,
what's your take on lubricating stones?
I think it’s a good thing to do however not necessary. I tried it for a bit and it just made the tuning process take longer. I like the tune I get with dry stones and don’t see a need to lubricate.
How long will your ski last doing this about once a week?
I would guess that if you tuned once a week with this method you would get 2 seasons for sure, maybe 3
Thanks for sharing this! Why do you use 3 degree file guide versus a different angle?
I use a 3 degree
3 degrees is pretty standard for carving skis. Some racers even go 4 degrees. 2 degrees is typical of all mountain skis. The higher the degree, the more grip you will have but will also need more skill in piloting the ski.
What vice do you recommend?
I like this swix one www.swixsport.com/us/tools/vises/t144-vise-2-point-friction/?code=7045951562477
Could you please share your experience about tip rockered ski with fully sharp and detuned rockered part? What's difference in behave of ski?
Basically I like to detune in a direct relationship to the rocker. Fully sharp in the camber and once the rocker begins, gradually/progressively detune from that point up to the tip.
I still like a little grip up in the rocker for when I’m laying the ski over and pulling radius
@@skidadTV any downsides of fully sharpened rocker?
@@nikon255 In softer conditions you might find the tip is grabby, making the ski "twitchy"
@@skidadTV Id say soft is not bad. Grippy snow like artificial and refrozen are worst.
I'm curious on your take with the base edge. I live in NH, we ski a lot of hard snow(ice) here. I have two pair of Atomic Redster S9's. Yesterday I skied the newer pair as the snow is good, no rocks to hit yet after 7 hours of constant carving the skis edges are pretty chewed up. Do you ever use a file on the base edge as well as the side? At some point today I'll get out to my shop and start the tuning process. My tool selection is pretty much what you have only my finest diamond stone is 600. Thanks
I use a file on the base edge to start the season, once the angle is set I try to use a 400 or finer on the base to keep the angles true
@@skidadTV Thank you the base edge is always a mystery to me. I have them set a .75 others I know do .5, some racers are a .25. They all mention sharpening/stoning the side edge, but never say much about sharpening the base
@@kenchester3072 I'd stay away from the base edge unless it's rusted. No matter how careful you are, you are removing material. And every time you do that the ski will get progressively looser, it doesn't matter how careful you are. You can of course restore the correct base edge angle with a base grind.
@@bearclaw5115 I'm picking up my two pair of carving skis from a base grind and tune at a nearby ski shop. The tech doing the work said the same. Leave the base edge alone.
where did you get the tools?
No one place in particular, Swix.com, Artch.com etc...
@@skidadTV is there a complete kit on Amazon worth getting ???
I’ve been tuning skis for decades, but I was curious as to why: 1. You didn’t deburr the edges with a diamond stone (case hardening can be brutal on the tuning files); and, 2. Do you always use diamond stones dry (no oil, or 50/50 water/alcohol mix)? Otherwise, we have a pretty similar technique. I barely detune here in the Ice Coast. I lived out West for a while, and I missed the frozen junk we get here on the East Coast; worst snow on Earth, and I love it. Thanks for the video.
If I don’t hit any rocks, I just go straight to the file. If it hit some rocks while skiing I use the 100 grit stone to get rid of the case hardening prior to using the file.
I have always used dry stones, the main reason being that when I use a lubricant my hands get wet and slippery. This makes slipping an issue and I don’t want to cut my thumb, again… also with wet stones my hands get soft and my hands get beat up when I check the edge for sharpness.
Dry stones wear out faster than wet ones for sure, but they get the ski sharp and I’m used to the feel of it.
Great questions. Both points are the “correct” way to do it. But, you don’t always have to do what they say…
That makes sense; no rocks hit, no coarse diamond stone. I believe that the best technique is what actually works best for you, and dry diamond stones fit perfectly in your workflow. I have a hybrid method for mounting bindings: paper template + jig; the best of both worlds. And yet, again, this is not the orthodox way, but it works perfectly for me, specially with STH2’s and Pívot 15’s and 18’s.
There are some ski tuning videos on UA-cam (a lot of them range from mediocre to must avoid at all costs), but I think your video is the most realistic and concise. Keep up the good work!