Why And How To Wax Your Snowboard / In Depth Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 19 січ 2025
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Video description / background:
Speed and glide are not the same thing. While you don't always want speed, you definitely always want glide, and therefore your snowboard base needs to be in good shape and thoroughly waxed!
This in depth talk will dive into different bases, base structure, different waxes, base preparation and a few other little snowboard waxing tips along the side. I'll also be talking about the tools needed and how to handle/maintain them.
Sidecut tuning tools and Nanox wax can be purchased directly through me.
Email me at lars.justaride@gmail.com
Only 6 months in and already 6.800 views with very kind comments... This video has seemingly helped many people with their board maintenance.
If it changed your world and you want to express your gratitude and support my channel, you can do this here:
www.buymeacoffee.com/justaride
Thank you so much, and don't forget to check out my other content! ;-)
Another great video, as always, Lars! We've just last weekend finished for the season, unfortunately, but it's been really great. Your videos have helped me enormously with my set up , looking after my gear correctly and begin to learn softboot carving. It really has been a blast and your positivity, knowledge and willingness to share it have helped enormously!! Thanks so much!! 👍
Oh wow!! Amazing!! Thank you so much for sharing that with me!!
Me and my husband (who is German as well) following your videos all the time, you are great and so informative. Thank you.
So great to hear this! Vielen Dank!! 🤩🙂🙏
The best and most informative video about base and wax. Thank you.
First time waxing my own board. Oh dear lord! The wax is just not stopping to come off....the more I scrape the more it keeps coming. I might have used too much wax! It is fun though.
I like to take my graphite wax and blend it some into the normal wax I use. It seems to achieve a really smooth, nice, shiny base.
Thanks Lars. Used the search bar and scrolled until I found your video
Awesome as usual. Thanks Lars. Only wish this had existed 2 months ago! Over many years i usually cold-waxed thru the season most time and would have a hot wax from a friend's help, or borrow an iron, or just have the pro shop once or twice a season... many methods and dos/don'ts, many different opinions. This year I finally put my own kit together and probably watched two dozen videos looking "my" recipe to get a great result that wasn't excessive... all the vids with the same number of dos/don'ts, all different opinions.
What i finally came away with and how I tuned our boards last month is nearly exactly what you've shown. They were fast as hell! :D
So THAT'S pretty freakin cool at least. :D Thanks!
Haha, good story!
Yes, I agree!! As many methods as there are tuners... And I'm sure I'm not doing it perfectly...
Great video! You mentioned base grinding and over time your base can go away. While this true, angry snowboarder makes a video on base bringing until the base was gone. 250 base grinds later and there was still plenty of base left 😊
@@peterfarris1550 that is nonsense, Angry Snowboarder!
That’s a statement utterly free of any of the required nuance. Bases are hardly thicker than a millimetre these days. If you have deep scratches you want to grind out and you do a deep grind four times, I guarantee you have a hole in the base. Running a board quickly over a fine belt or stone for a little refresh is not the same thing. While the Angry snowboarder is a respected creature among ‘snowboarders of the internet’, I am a snowboarder of the mountain with over a decade of experience right on a base grinding machine. I trust myself on this one and not someone who hands his board to a shop for a grind. All in peace!! ✌️
Excellent video. Doing my first wax this week….
@@hanishakeel7122 enjoy!! 🙂
Thanks for sharing! Definitely one of the best video in how to wax in detail. Really appreciate content like this!
Very great informative video about bases
I was waiting to see if you crayon before having this melting iron base touch the base! Nicely done :)
Thanks!
@@brentc5422 thank you kindly!!
Hey Lars!
Great video and greetings from England!
I’m mainly riding indoor slopes on my Gray Desperado.
Got all the Roto brushes/cork pads etc but a Lambswool Paint Roller in a drill is my tip for a polished finish!
Thanks for the ‘Edge strip versus full base width wax’ tip - going to try that with a harder wax.
Cheers, Dave.
Nice one!! Thanks!
Very good guide to Waxing. Seems to cover all the questions I have had over the years of waxing, where I either had to learn it the hard way or through bits of information. Recommended to all beginner tuners. Personally I use hotwaxing to clean the base, but I am sure the suggested method works as well.
Hot waxing is an excellent way to clean a base!! I should have made that clear...
Thanks for the comment! Check out the rest on my channel! I'm certain there's more for you ;-) :-)
Thank you for your detail videos! Support!
You’re welcome! 🙂🙏
I think with die cut bases you're essentially giving the board that many more chances to have a de-lamination.
Regarding 3D bases, I gave them a try with the Bataleon Thunder which is pretty much the most 3D of a base that you can have, and... it mostly just behaves like camrocker. It doesn't even track straight on a cat track like a camber board. I did have an idea I kind of wanted to try of getting rid of the base bevel on the raised areas and just let the angle of the base serve that function, but that board died of base damage right next to the edge making that board permanently edge high but only on one spot so it would always be trying to kill you. On thegoodride they do sometimes mention spooned noses giving a different feel in powder but I never got that board in deep powder fresh enough to tell. Mostly just seems like expensive cam rocker.
I think I'm getting a bit of an idea of how Sami folklore works, if we all pretend like that Biru split isn't behind you, it won't exist.
wow, this is hands down the best waxing guide on youtube. very nice.
Do you have some tips about keeping the scraper clean and not gunking up the sharpener with wax? I'm worried that solvent will not interact well with acrylic.
@@markoobilic-j9b a second scraper to scrape it off and some citrus base cleaner. 👍
Hey Lars, what do you think about cleaning base in the following way: iron a regular layer of wax into the base, but remove it right after with a scraper, then brass and nylon brushes. This way the still warm(ish) wax would suck out dirt and such particles from the base. Saw this from Nicholas Wolken, Korua Shapes. Let me know what you think if you get there.
p.s.: all your videos are deeply and highly appreciated, I will be sharing them in my small but enthusiastic Hungarian snowboarding communities.
@@gergelywertan3088 thanks for the kind words!!
Yes, that’s a good way to clean a base!! 👍👌🙂
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel woah, thanks for the swift answer!
Hello Lars! Always enjoy your content, very informative. What would you do in preparation for transitioning a board previously waxed with standard all temp wax, to Nanox wax?
Nothing really... Just start using Nanox! :-)
It's also not a world of a difference. I like working with the stuff, and it does glide very well, and I do have very high quality bases on all of my boards. Depending on all these variables it can sometimes be a waste of money to use rather expensive waxes. Nanox isn't too bad, but certainly not cheap.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel thanks!
Perfect video as always! More solid information on snowboard bases than in the rest of the Internet combined.
What do you think about liquid "waxes" that are applied to the base without heating up - as a means to keep the base saturated for longer between hot waxes? For example hot wax before the trip and rewaxing with liquid wax every day.
Not trying to substitute hot waxing, but I don't see myself scraping in a hotel room.
I think they're exactly made for your purpose!
There might be products soon that will overall be easier to handle - I have a feeling.... It seems like we've been waxing with irons for too long. :-) Hahaha...
Thanks for the kind words!!
Feel free to support my mission here, if you want!
www.buymeacoffee.com/justaride
Keep in mind that flourinated wax wasn’t made illegal, it isn’t an illegal substance, it was just banned from competition. You can still get guys who just “need” that extra glide on a powder day
Great video!
What are your thoughts on Phantom Glide?
Also curious on your thoughts around some of the risks around inhaling wax fumes or dust particles and general environmental impact of hydrocarbon or fluro based waxes.
Well, fluro has been banned, so that's that :-)
I don't know too much about the impact of hydrocarbon waxes. I've also never ridden and played with Phantom. Sorry, not much information here!
I'm fairly certain that there are some aspects of skiing/snowboarding that are far, far more harmful to the planet than wax... like.... water consumption for man made snow and the electricity those guns consume.... But of course it's always a good thought to reduce our foot print where ever we can. Wend and Oneball Jay make some environmentally friendly products, and I'm sure it's only gonna become more.
I got a Cardiff solid board with Phantom glide pre applied, but I didn't really get enough time on it to know how impactful it was. For a resort board, I will mention the caveat it doesn't prevent the base from abrading and getting fuzzy the same way a base does if you just tolerate bad glide from not waxing. That's on one of their harder to find faqs, so if you don't wax and just rely on the phantom glide you need to get to periodically get the base reground, I think that ends up being about every 30 riding days, so I don't know that not applying the paraffin is really such an environmental upside over the micro plastic from doing so many base grinds, might depend on how tidy your tuner is. Might not be an issue if you're the type to get your structure tuned to the weather. I'll probably just get it waxed normally because I don't do much board maintenance myself and the edges tend to get consumed at about the same rate as the wax. I mostly just got it because it's a powder board and it seems like a nice bonus to avoid being caught flat footed if a surprise storm shows up.
I think the real benefit to phantom glide is for splitboards or back country skies to avoid the meeting of wax and skin glue.
@@Phos9 Splitboarder here...thats why I originally phatomed my splits...so the skins would be happier. I now have most of my resort boards phantomed too and it works great there. As far as needing base grinds I don't do that I just use the scrubby pad to take out the base burn if any, works fine and ios quick.
I agree with your points about base cleaner. I'm trying to remove all the factory wax from my new board before applying Nanox race wax. I plan to use some Swix Glide Wax Cleaner sparingly, to avoid drying the base, and then hit the hill to remove any residue it might leave (it feels slightly oily).
I've heard that alcohol-based cleaners can dry out and irreparably damage the base, while citrus-based ones supposedly don't. I understand your concerns about regular wax maintenance, but the idea of "irreparable" damage doesn't make sense to me-wouldn't re-waxing and saturating the base fix it? What's your take on this?
Irreparable sounds dramatic. I don’t believe that either. But I only ever use citrus based. Seems to do a fantastic job.
Hey Lars Fantastic video, like all of yours i have learn so much through you. I have a question, i can feel on some of my board that they are become 'high edge' like you said and i was wondering if i can make it flatter again by using a base bevel tool to avoid the base grind. Also my GF have a board with an extruded base that have that only after 1 or 2 month of use (12 to 20 days) on very icy snow and i was worried that with multiple the base grind it will last only one season
Yes, you can do that. It will be a bit of a job to remove that much steel. But it’s not too bad. 👍 Thanks for the kind words!
when you talk about die cut... I had a 2023 salomon dancehaul with yellow/black/yellow base....which delaminated on the yellow strip.... was thinking about replacing it with 2024 version but that is just asking for all sorts of problems
Awesome video Lars!! If I missed it, could you share some of your thoughts on how frequently it is necessary to wax a backcountry splitboard?
Thanks!! All depends on the conditions. Whenever the base looks dull and is getting grey, I’d wax.
Hey Lars! Thanks so much-Question-
Do you have an opinion on Phantom Glide?
Thanks again
@@ndill1597 never used. I hear very mixed things.
Copy that! I think I will stick w my iron and brushes! 👍🏼
Thank you Lars for great knowledge sharing once again , much appreciation and respect from China!❤❤love and peace
Thank you so much!! :-)
Great video! A few questions: how do you clean your brushes? How do you ensure that the process itself is as clean as possible. If I don't do it in a dedicated workshop but do it somewhere that has wooden flooring, then I will have lots of wax all over the place. Do you have any tips how to avoid it?
Thanks!
I take the shop vac to the brushes to suck the wax particles/dust out of them.
Otherwise, not much you can do other than being super careful.... You will need a tarp on the floor, if you do this inside your home. Not recommended, really.
Hey Lars! First of all, amazing content you’re creating, I think I’m close to having watched all your videos :). I love the scientific (nerdy as you say) take on all of this stuff. As an engineer this totally resonates! Anyway, question about waxing… got a 162 ravine pro this year, after about three outings it appeared the base started to dry out near the edges so I decided to hit wax. However, even after brushing for 20mins I cannot get the base as shiny as yours and i continue to she a white “haze”… I decided against using the base cleaner (before waxing) per your advice, but am I doing something wrong? Is it the wrong wax? Not enough wax? Too much brushing? Not sure what’s going on, but looking to get a perfect shiny finish with structure exposed like you (without using a roto). Should not worry or you got any tips/insights? TIA! Keep up the good work!
All over or just along the edges??
@ really just near the edges but that is also where I first noticed it “pre-wax” which led me to believe it was time for a hot wax! I think it’s normal for the area near the edge to get more wear right?
@@rolandmair2278 You have 'base burn'. Depending on the snow conditions that can happen along the edge. Is the base 'furry' in those areas? Like, micro hair sticking up before waxing??
@ maybe a tiny bit but nothing super noticeable. I would be surprised if oxidation happened after only 3 days of riding!? I wish I could send a pic. I will say, when I continue to brush with horsehair, more “dust” comes off, but the spots aren’t getting shinier but more hazy so I’m nervous to keep going. Maybe I should do another round of hot waxing… or anything else you think I should try? Too bad I can’t upload a pic.
@ it sounds like maybe you haven’t actually scraped off all the wax and you’re brushing wax. Likely!!
Hi Lars! Very informative, thank you for sharing your knowledge! What are your thoughts on re-using the scraped wax? Last year I managed to save almost an entire block by melting the excess wax I used throughout the season and using an old case as a mould. Cheers!
Nah…. Don’t do that. Full of crap. Particles and whatever got pulled out of the base for dirt.
Thanks Lars for sharing. I learned many things as usual from your videos... One question, I heard that wax fumes are a big no for your alveolar reducing lung capacity, in particular with Fluor-based waxes. What do you think about using facemasks during the melting?
Great question! First of all fluor based waxes have been banned and I'm not using those. Otherwise, yes, definitely a good idea to wear a respirator!
I solve the issue partially with a ceiling fan above my work bench that pulls the fumes out of the room. I didn't want to disturb the audio in this video, so I worked without it running.
Great video. 😊 One thing about scraping front to back. I do it too but I always wonder (doubt) if it makes any difference...
@@timobreumelhof88 on a perfect stone ground base it makes less of a difference than on a shitty furry belt grind where you wanna scrape the furry stuff flat with riding direction.
@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel ah right I didn't think about that..
Great video!
One (probably dump) question came to my mind while watching:
The scraped of wax - is it just trash or is there any use to it still?
Not a dumb question at all!
It is not recommended to use the wax shavings, because they will always contain some amount of dirt that came up out of the base. People have done it. I wouldn't... :-)
Once you’re done, do you do anything to keep the board protected until you’re actually on snow?
@@lukedesaulniers5943 board sleeve at times.
Great video again .
Have you waxed /scraped a 3D board ?
I'm presuming it's more challenging?
Well...... let's just say it totally sucks and I hate it! Hahahaha.....
I also don't believe in 3D bases. Video coming next season. ;-)
So one thing I was wondering with the different temp waxes is why not just use the harder cold temperature was regardless of the temp as it will stay on the board the longest not getting worn off like the soft, warm temp was does?
@@MM-jn2ny good question. I assume that with higher moisture content in the snow the warm temp wax has better properties. Not sure. 🤔
What about that phantom wax treatment?
Never tried. I hear mixed reviews.
Great video Lars. Love the tip of putting a harder wax along edges. I'll have to try that next season. I bit of a geeky question here. In terms of trying to "saturate" a newer base, is there any benefit to repeatedly melting in a wax job? I'm specifically thinking of doing my summer storage wax job and periodically re-ironing it in over the summer. Thoughts?
That's how I treat a new board - over a few days. With summer storage over weeks I'd be worried to iron in wax that has accumulated dirt...
Thanks Lars - good point. I didn’t think about dust & dirt…
Layering waxes as part of new board prep is pretty much universal in the racing community, even though Swix' own research seems to suggest that untreated or treated only once bases appear to have the same or higher speed potential. These tests do not talk about durability or versatility or adaptability though. Most world cup level wax techs would recommend multiple layers of high quality hydrocarbon wax before a board is ridden, and then very thorough follow up waxing (every time the board is ridden) as the board begins to be ridden.
Swix also recommends re-ironing their colder waxes. They say their testing indicates improved durability when this is done with their Polar and PS5 products, this is an in season recommendation I think rather than something I would do with storage wax. I agree with Lars, ironing in storage wax multiple times with days in between each session, is likely to iron in dust and other particles from where the board is stored.
great stuff, thank you. I'm curious: what do you think of infrared waxes?
Never tried, but everything I've heard is sounding very, very good! Supposedly more wax efficient and better for the base...
Lars, thanks for all your great content! Super useful stuff!!
I’m getting our boards ready for the next season and have a quick question regarding waxing. I’ve heard it’s best to leave the board for hours to cool after applying wax (overnight). Is this right or can I wax them more frequently? I’m looking to do about 6 waxings per board (without scraping) so they’re well and truly saturated.
Tnanks!
Yup. That’s what I do with a new board. Scraping can be done after about 20 minutes.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I'm getting a new board prepped for the season. You wax and scrape multiple times? If so, why?
@ trying to get more wax into the base. Scraping could be skipped. Just re-heat the wax you’ve left on the board. Arguable thing to do this whole process. Some people say it won’t get more wax into the base… whatever!! 😅
Great video as always Lars 👍
I’m thinking of giving Nanox wax a try which I believe you are using. A question in relation to usage, Sidecut recommends scraping within 2 mins while the board is still warm but you use the more common method of waiting for the board to cool. Just wondering if you’ve tried their method but think waiting is better?
I scrape it warm. But nobody uses Nanox, so in the video I’m talking about how every other wax needs to be treated.
Makes sense cheers
Great video! Thanks! I have a question about burned base, if the edge is already a little higher than the base, is there a way to fix this manually? I mean without a base grind machine.
Not in a good way. Taking down the edge with a file will create a board that is base high and won't engage the edge in the desired way when turning.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thanks man, I'll find a repair store to fix my board, instead of doing it myself.
Hi lars , just got some tools to tune my quiver and found out my base is sort of bent towards the edges by a solid 3-4 degrees or even more,making the middle part raised. I think thats why i had a hard time balancing on it while flat😂. Why do you think its this way, for reference its a 20 years old board that i got a year ago when i tried to learn snowboarding. Could it be from pressure building up along its lifespan bending it? Also i bought a base structurer too and i’m curious if you’ve seen something like this . Its a sort blade with a lot of small sharp teeth that dig into a base giving it a ‘’structure’’ , i don’t think its a replacement for a stone grind but maybe an alternative?
No idea! Sounds like time for a new board. Stone grind is stone grind. No point messing with some thing I've never heard about, hahaha.... :-)
Complete guess. But could it be that moisture got into a wooden core, and the wood has swolen/warped? 😢
I am tuning my snowboard myself this year and, aside from being a fun and satisfying way to chill in my garage, I've also discovered that on the other side, a lot of shops do a really poor job, like quickly grinding the side edges, taking away a lot of material and not even considering the base bevel at all, and oftentime doing their work in a standardized way, regardless of the shape of the board (sidecut radius, camber ecc).
So I prefer to take care of my board myself.
But besides this, many times I've heard that leaving the wax on the board for at least a couple of hours to a maximum of 24h would be beneficial, for the wax would supposedly penetrate the sole more thouroughly. This would supposedly be one of the main differences between hand waxing and machine waxing. But I see that in this video, you scrape the wax away as soon as it gets cold.
So, leaving the wax on the board for hours: truth or mith?
Myth!! 30 minutes is plenty!!
Swix says 2-4 minutes is good. They also used to recommend 2 hrs. If I have a lot of boards to do I scrape immediately with very cold waxes, and I leave for a little bit for all other waxes ( maybe up to a couple of hours). If I am just doing my own board I mostly wax in the evening and scrape in the morning, but if I need to rewax because conditions changed then I wax and scrape pretty much straight away. most of the penetration happens whilst the wax is at it's hottest, in it's most fluid state.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel30 minutes.....ok, ok, o..thanks! Great video! 👌🏻
One question on 27:37 you see, that there are thin path cooling much faster then flat evenly over the path of the iron which went there before. Is that normal? It looks after going with my wax iron like the base is not actually flat because the edges of the iron put more heat then the middle in my opinion. Maybe you csn answer.
Also: if the texture of the base is in some light Situations a bit visible is normal? It feels flat and glidy after waxing. Talking about the capita super doa.
None of this is a reason to worry about anything. My iron passes overlap heavily. That's one reason for why parts of the base are hotter and dry slower - they've been ironed more! Then anywhere where there's metal around (edges / inserts) things cool slower once the metal is actually warm. I honestly don't think about this very much. I've never damaged a base while waxing. I feel like it's all good. :-)
@ thanks and whats about the texture of the base visible even when freshly applied wax after scraping?
Would love to send you some picture of it…
@ no worries. Base absorbed wax. Less wax applied. No matter the reason, it’s fine. As long as there’s wax… if you don’t like that, apply a little more wax.
@ thank you so much from germany:)
Lars I have noticed several times the A from the logo of the JustAride channel is very similar to the A in the Aquarius logo. Each tine I see it I make the mental connection. So might want to check that, if that bothers you. Aside that detail, you really are a knowledgeable and truly top tier rider, you know a lot, explain yourself really good, and back it up with riding like GOD himself😂. Keep on it!
Thanks for the input regarding the logo and the kind words!!
Do you mean the drink Aquarius?
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel yes, the Aquarius drink!
I don't see the similarity in the logo design, there are noticeable differences. Sometimes our brains form connections that once we've made them, we can't shake. Sting didn't actually sing about Sue Lawley.
Good video as always Lars 👍
@@ghostofjakebluesyes indeed, my brain just thinks “Aquarius” each time! I just wanted to share it case…
@@ghostofjakeblues I feel sue lawley, I feel sue lawley lawley lawley law, I feel sue law I feel sue lawley!!!!
I appreciate the detail. Cheers
@@aaronfinney1740 thanks for the comment!! ✌️🙏
Another fantastic tutorial!
Thanks, Lars!
You rock 🤙
Glad you liked it. Sorry it's always so bloody long...
@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel It needs to be long enough in order to convey the right amount of detail.
Keep doing what you're doing, Lars!
It's great stuff!
Liebe Grüße aus Ruhrgebiet 🤙
@@razvanhalmaciu1 Ruhrpott Kind! 🙂Danke und Grüße zurück!!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Adoptiertes Kind Vom Ruhrgebiet übernommen 😃 🇺🇸🇩🇪
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Learning a lot from your videos!
Keep them coming ❤️
You should check out Leonid Kuzmins phd thesis and research papers on base glide. His research finds structure and a clean base is actually better than a waxed base.
Love it! Epic!! Nerd central!! :-)
Thanks for the tip!
That thesis had a lot of issues
@@brianp9268 Honestly I’m not a researcher by trade, so I can’t speak to that very well. What specifically did you notice?
Hey Lars, what's your take on liquid waxes? Does it come anywhere near normal waxing? I usually do horsehair brush > liquid wax > nylon brush before every session and it seems to give a very smooth effect, but probably also less durable.
I don't have enough experience with liquid waxes to give you a valid opinion. What I know is that there's very good ones and very bad ones. I tried Star wax. VERY GOOD! Very expensive.... I do believe that this will become the future of waxing.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I use Holmenkol liquid wax. Pretty nice for glide, but i can see and feel my boards need hot wax. Sadly have to go indoor a lot, so that wears em down pretty quick.
You say multiple layers are needed. Do you always use the brass brush in between then?
@@RobertoVillaLobby never brass brush here. I do fibertex pad before waxing and hard nylon brush to refresh a recently waxed base.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Brass brush seems dangerous to damage base to me. Or is that not the reason? I have a brass drill brush that came with a set but i'm afraid to use that. The horsehair and nylon work great though.
@@RobertoVillaLobby not sure about dangerous. They're used to 'clean' a base... Can't be that bad...
Hi Lars! Need a tip for storing board during summer. I used to wax and iron my board at the end of the season, but not scrape it off and put it inside my travel snowboard bag for summer so no dust or sun touches it. I scrape off wax just before i'm going to the resort when the season starts. Is it OK or I should scrape off wax right after waxing the board and leave it scraped for summer?
You got it!! Wax on over summer. I have a video on storage wax. Called put your board to sleep.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thank you so much! I'll check it out asap!
So if I were to venture a guess, if "sintruded" actually does differ from a normal extruded base, it might just be that they force air into the plastic through some means to make it porous.
Could be anything. But really, what I know from some companies personally it’s likely marketing BS. Sad but true.
A couple of years ago I bought a new Rome Agent that was edge high within a few weeks. I noticed it when riding on a cold, icy day. When I tipped the board on edge it felt like the board was fighting me, wanted to go flat.
Yup! Awful sensation!!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-ChannelI experienced this last weekend. Awful, just awful. Couldn't pinpoint the issue back then. Just checked the board and compared to my other boards. It is indeed edge high. Mystery solved... Thanks!
Hi there! Just ended my season and time to treat well my board 😅
watch my 'storage wax video'!!
ua-cam.com/video/3JVqBsFwkiY/v-deo.htmlsi=ugLcZiG1PEEW6_44
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel thanks!
Thanks
Thank you so much!! 🙏🙏
What do you think about the damp paper towel method? I've been using it this season and it saved me soooo much time, wax and work..
Never heard of it. Tell me more!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel no wayyyy
Hi Lars! How wide board shoud be for size 11.5? Super wide snowboards are becoming popular now, but with boot out it's really harder to change edge. What do you think about it?
Watch all my videos about waist width! Also the ones about Short/Fats, volume shifted boards! It all depends on so many things...
You are using horse hair brush after nylon brush. Most of the guides and manufacturers say otherwise, horsehair brush first. Why you use this way and does this require some special softness on horse hair brush?
Hmmm.... going from coarse to fine seems more logical to me. Seemingly there's two trains of thought on this one. I've heard both approaches. I don't think it's worth overthinking this. We're all not racing, I assume :-)
If your base has 3D contouring in the tip and tail, is there anything special to do (for exampling, when ironing or scraping)? I'm recently on a Jones Mind Expander and it's my first 3D contoured base board.
Waxing 3D bases just takes a bit longer especially ones with concave in tail. You more so have to be careful with scraping as it's easy to dig into created ridge line from the 3D change in the base if you are too aggressive.
What @cratra says!!
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Also, I really avoid 3D bases at all cost. I have yet to understand the real factual benefits. The obvious downsides are far outweighing 3D for me.
I'll make a video about that next season.
What greit on the scotch pad?
Good question! I honestly don't know. Among my three different pads I use the medium one.
You mentioned K2/Ride - What are your thoughts on the tune from Capita?
Not enough experience with it to judge. But looks pretty nice!
What are the negatives of not removing all of the wax properly?
...a clogged structure and crystals grabbing the wax making you go slower.
@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel - just ordered a horse hair brush, I was amazed that even after scraping and brushing how much still came off with the horse hair brush and the finish looked amazing 👍 many many thanks for all you content and information 🙏
Good video, have fun!
Is hard wax bad for hot snow. It should be more resistant too. Or is there any indication against this idea. Except the fact that scrapping hard wax is big s...
Good question!!
This might be total rubbish... but I think the softer warm temp wax is more hydrophobic... not 100% sure about that one.
Possible. Hot wax looks more greasy. But it's perhaps just because it's more soft
@@XAVIERZAX Harder waxes work better in warm snow conditions than warm waxes work in colder snow. In general colder temp waxes are more versatile and more durable. As Lars says the warmer waxes are more hydrophobic, but they also aren't as durable. I have also found that there are certain spring conditions where the snow has fully transformed and is what we call corn snow (large see through crystals with very rounded edges). This snow tends to have a lot of dust and dirt in it because it is very old. In those conditions hard waxes also work very well, at least as well as the 'warm temp' softer waxes.
@@johnshelly6946 Thanks. That's what i think too. Generally i put hard/cold wax near the edges, where ther is more pressure and softer/hotter wax on most of the board. A good compromise i think.
@@XAVIERZAX I know a lot of people who do that. I just run the colder harder waxes more often across the whole board. If I feel like the snow is abrasive enough to heat the edges up, then it's usually abrasive enough to bring the harder waxes into their own anyway.
Thanks for the video!
Lars. What’s the width of the top of your vises?
The actual vice (metal) measures 11.25". The rubber padded area that the board actually lies on measures 10.75". Those are the biggest I've ever worked with. Great support!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel what brand? Or are they just Amazon specials. I have swix and they’re 8.25 which is now unacceptable
@@LagmasterB Sidecut.
I take with me a small tub of creamy wax when splitboarding, and rub on the smallest amount after I peel off my skins. (I feel the peeling of the skins removes some of the wax) Sometimes I just want to wax my board after every run 😂😂😂 I ride gentem in japan 2+months per year and you can really feel the difference in that deep japow.
I ride Lib/Gnu, Mervin bases are definitely pure ass out of the box. Good thing a base grind is cheap and easy 😎
On a scale of 1-10,
10 = great idea
1 = bad idea
How do you feel about not waxing? Only relying on structure
(Feel free to use negative numbers)
@@keVINlizzo supposedly a high quality base with a good structure in ice cold conditions is faster when not freshly waxed but only very well brushed….. So maybe there are situations where not waxing is a 10/10 😎
@ hmmm..surprising me with that answer. For me the difference is extremely noticeable when waxing, but I’m on a sintered base? Even 1footing to the lift, it’s very noticeable..different on a man-made snow base in Vermont perhaps?
@@keVINlizzo did you understand the note on extremely cold conditions? Of course in general it is better to wax!! I thought you were joking with the question. Wax wax wax wax wax…. And more wax!! The cold thing was a tip from a racer.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel haha you got me. I just think it’s bonkers that some people promote not waxing
@ entirely crazy!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for this detailed explanation. What do you think about the fast method that uses a wet towel to melt and get rid of wax in excess? (e.g. see ua-cam.com/video/jbFmIjr5YGw/v-deo.html at minute 10:00)
Thanks for the link. Never tried. Not sure what the sudden water evaporation would do… hmmm…. Guess I’ll do some research. Cheers!
Danke ❤
Bitte! :-)