Відео

@@Mixedbydavey this is a Stranda Makrill. The Chaser has way too much taper for my liking. Makrill is 20mm. I don’t necessarily want more than that. But that’s preference. I’ve heard good things about the Chaser.

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channelnice one! Which Stranda would be your pick as an all round pow, groomer and carving board for Japan?

@@Mixedbydavey if you’re into the quick turn feel and the idea of a short fat, the Makrill is perfect. Otherwise Shorty or Tree Surfer.

@@noamkurtis1 thanks for the kind words!! You wanna take the OG insole out of the boot and trace around it on the new insole. Then cut to the exact same size. Don’t leave any room. The sole will be sliding around!! Good luck!

Understood. Thanks so much !

@@jiblyjably it’s also less responsive and therefore more forgiving without lean. Comes in handy on a rail when you try to avoid catching those edges… 😅

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel rail and street riding is just another part of snowboarding. It’s dope, turning is dope, jumps are dope, big mountain is dope, snowboarding is dope.

@@jiblyjably agreed!

@@flimppppp personally I’d say if you’re already riding ++ for carving and your body is dialled in to that position with all its benefits and disadvantages there’s a good chance you can ride just about anything in that stance. However, I believe that technical, tight terrain requires more foot steering through the torsional flex of the board, and that is clearly more efficient with flatter angles. So I do actually dial it back on powder or freeride days. Probably to +6° on the back foot. That’s almost flat and gives me good power transfer across the board. Front is never under 27° for me.

Thanks for replying!! Appreciate your response. I’ve always been a +- rider so when I tried ++ thanks to your video, it felt like a completely new sport!! On the easy runs, I was fine and managed to turn well but as soon as I tried some technical terrain, I struggled immensely. Is your chest meant to stay open / facing down the mountain during most of the run? Because of how quick the turns came, I felt like my lower body was doing all the work and my upper body was lagging behind.

@@FLIMPstudios yeah, you got it. It will take some practice to learn how to execute the quicker turns in technical terrain in that stance. But as I said, you can just dial it back. It took me a bit to figure it out, but in the beginning my body didn’t like going past 24 in the front and past 0 in the back. …..and that’s totally fine….. Upper body depends a bit on the terrain. In real steep, tight, technical terrain there’s a good portion of lower body only going on. Like, jump turns where you keep looking down the fall line. You may wanna call that counter rotation. You almost pivot around your front foot. The less the terrain requires this, the less you need to apply it. In trees I ride pretty much all normal. I think my video series in stances mentions the difference in foot vs. hip steering.

@@nemdawg6342 nice one!! Thanks for sharing!

It does now. This one here has edges, too. The first ones didn't have any.

Hi and thanks! This has nothing to do with the board at all. As you said "freestyle carver'. I'm not a freestyle carver. Here's my take on Ryan, who I have deepest respect for: This is the main question I'm getting on this video, and I knew that was gonna happen. I think we need to look at what's going on between how and where I ride and how and where he rides. First of all Ryan is a highly skilled snowboarder!! Secondly: you can dig deep trenches in any stance - but maybe not the same way in the same terrain with the same desired outcome! I personally see Ryan's riding as freestyle that is carving inspired rather than the opposite. He can carve DESPITE his stance, not BECAUSE OF his stance. When people say that +/+ is unnecessary, because of Ryan Knapton, I could easily reply "So should the Olympic GS racers ride duck now?". You need to look at the desired outcome. He wants to ride both ways with tons of spins. +/+ doesn't make sense for that - although there's a ton of Asian riders crushing it, doing the same things he does with very steep positive angles. Same goes for them: they can do it DESPITE the angles, not BECAUSE OF the angles... Then there's terrain. Ryan carves on very open, mellow groomers. That's where it's fun to do what he does. In order for him to get such high edge angles in such mellow terrain, his board needs an insanely large radius! His actual board - as far as I know - is now at over 18m radius... If it was a standard 8m radius, the way he rides every turn would result in a 4m radius turn (watch my video on sidecut!!) making him come to a stop within six turns... There's no momentum behind such small turns in such mellow terrain! So his gear is very niche and very specialized. As soon as you enter steep, narrow runs - like what I ride a lot - the 18m radius would produce wild amounts of uncontrollable speed. The steepness and being forced to really tighten turns aggressively also forces you to get much more weight over the front of the board than what Ryan needs. His position is pretty relaxed and neutral - ideal for freestyle maneuvers. Once you challenge yourself to carve clean turns in the steeps, the advantage of a +/+ stance is undeniable (...and that does not mean that it's impossible to do in a duck stance!!). Hinging forward from the hip to get the chest well over the front foot is crucial, and in a duck stance impossible to do in a way that doesn't twist and tweak the entire body - as explained in this video. It's funny... nobody questions half pipe riders about their board choice saying "But Zeb Powell rode the pipe on a 203cm Nitro Swallow Tail! Why are you riding such a short twin?". This is the same thing! There's a whole world of alpine racing out there, fully specialized in carving, all in a +/+ stance... and then there's Ryan Knapton doing something entirely different, yet carving, and everybody says "I don't know that +/+ is necessary!"; hahahaha.... I hope this makes any sense! My main point here is that the two stances require different techniques in order for them to work efficiently. Pick your poison! :-)

@@Bob-ru6nw it’ll be better on that end, but the boot itself will ultimately collapse laterally at the ankle. Burton boots are particularly bad for that, because they don’t offer an articulating upper cuff. So every time you flex the ankle in whichever way, the material breaks down a bit more… Plus, you still have a binding attached to the foot rather than in your backpack. Weight on the feet is much worse than in your pack. But you’re right, that system might well be a bit better for splitboarding than a standard strap binding.

@@RodrigoeBeta thank you so much!! I’m glad it made sense! Have fun.

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Reporting back: started with 24/3, ended the day with 30/9. I don't know if it is because I've had some injuries in the past that made my mobility restricted, but I feel SO MUCH BETTER on the board with that new stance. Much easier to get in and out of turns during carves, I'm not ducking anymore. Many many thanks!

@@RodrigoeBeta haha, the duck got driven out! :-) Glad it worked!!

@@mikeuptegrove high back and heel cup are two different things. Don’t mount the heel cups asymmetrically!!!! That adjustment is solely a size adjustment. The high backs however may have two or three holes on each wing and those are for rotation.

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel yeah. I changed the high backs. The, “heel cups”, I left at stock. I was playing with them last night to see if I could center the disc but it made it made worse. I didn’t realize last night the adjustment for the high back side to side was at the same spot as the heel cup.

Sounds like you know what works for you. 👍

@@mikeuptegrove just to clarify: it’s not about centring your disc, but the boot. Once everything’s mounted, you should have the same amount of toe and heel overhang. I think you did that, but then parts of your comment confused me (4th screw?!?!). Your Ollie approach sounds totally understandable, but unfortunately doesn’t get you to a functional snowboard setup. Size 10 on a 153 Orca is a good fit. I believe that board has a 268mm waist. So that’s an appropriate width for just about everything but super extreme carving, which the board can’t do anyways. I find it a fun pow board, but I don’t like rocker. Also, it’s too soft of a board for me. With your background I can only assume that you’ll be happier riding camber. Setups are always the same. Once you know where the binding sits relatively to the bolts/inserts, you just copy that for every board. The foot will remain centred over any board, just the amount of overhang will change with changing board width. I’ve never tried a Capita, but I’ve heard many good things about the boards. Good luck with the experiments!! It’s all fun! 😊

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel hey, thanks for the thorough reply. Yes, I have my toe and heel hang roughly even eyeballing it. To get it even, I can only get three screws in my disc, not 4. I saw your tips for adjusting and thought, “hmm, maybe I can get the disc centered and get the forth screw in, using your adjustments on the Bent Metal that I didn’t know about”. I tried but sliding the heel bar back only created even more heel hang, not less, even after shifting the disc back to the center and getting a fourth screw in. Presently, I have to rotate my disc to get it to slide set back toward the heels to keep toe and heel hang even. So by rotating the disc I can’t read the degrees I have of set at and I can only get three, not four screws in to mount it. I figured however, if Burton is using 2 screws now, then 3 should still be secure enough. But, it’s the only way I can get the centering I need. I thought maybe I could try the options you showed here, but they just weren’t as good as rotating my discs to they could slide further back toward my heel edge to give the best centering by eye. I haven’t measured, but all the other options I tried were way further away from being balanced. And, yes, that’s what I’m scared of! I grew up on Cambers. I never thought about my edges. Now they make boards for every baby that wants to ride without catching an edge or something. I’ve been playing catch up on tech on UA-cam. I stopped riding around 2000, but grew up doing it. Last time I rode was 2017, it was my first time in 9 years at all, and I was still the fastest guy down the mountain, didn’t fall once, ski patrol angry I was going too fast on the 25 year old Burton Custom I rode in high school, and after high school when I was riding everyday working at Squaw Valley. I’ve been in Hawaii a long time now, almost 25 years, but I surf everyday. My buddy Dave Weaver, who I surf with a lot, who was VP of Sims in the 1980s, and who invented the high back binding, has a grandson that comes here to surf in the summer. He lives in Alaska and is sponsored by Volcom. He’s 13. He and his Dad told me to buy an Orca, that the technology has caught up and it’s the best board. In high school I had a LibTech and it SUCKED! Complete garbage. It could’ve been the rocker, but in 95, nobody was talking tech anything, and no one knew about rockers or cambers. All that was just sorta like magic. All I know is once I got on a Burton Custom, all my other boards sucked, and I knew they held me back. So, I was scared to buy a LibTech again, thinking, they still suck. But then everyone says how great they are, there’s tons of hype online. So I don’t know. Maybe everyone online sucks at snowboarding and got all these baby boards that don’t catch edges or something, I don’t know cause that didn’t exist as a conversation, let alone and option, when I was growing up. It sounds like snowboards all have training wheels for the inept now or something the way it’s talked about online. So, after your comment, I’m scared the Orca might be crap. I rode full camber on powder all the time and never had a problem. My Burton Customs were always bad ass. But everyone says for Japan I need a Orca. So I got one. I’m going to Argentina in August. I want to bring two boards. I may bring my 25 year old Burton custom, it worked like a charm in 2017 when I last used it. But I am thinking the Capita Aeronaut maybe what I need to get the newest technology and lightness, in the style of board I grew up on. I listened to an interview with Longo and the way he sets his bindings up, rides his board flag without any forward lean, is exactly how I rode when I rode hard. I was a pretty good skater so I had good control of my boards and wasn’t half bad. We also didn’t have a, “side hits”, genre in snowboarding then, cause that’s basically what all snowboarding was for us. It was all resort groomers with side kickers at full speed. It’s all we did. Tickets at Squaw Valley were like $13 until they built the funitel and I think they went as high as $38. Now it’s $250 a day. It’s $500 for a 2 week pass at Las Leñas, Argentina, so I’m heading there. I’m gonna try that Aeronaut with Union Ultra, the set up Longo says he prefers. I was worried that the side cut might be too narrow and then I found your video. For some reason the internet had me sold on the idea that at size 10 boot, I need a wide board or something. I never did before. I always did fine before. Maybe set back heels always had me centered. I don’t even know. I’m gonna measure my old stance on my old set up and see what I had. I don’t even know. I like a narrow stance I know. I always rode 12 front foot and I guess, and something like 6-9 in the back foot (ducked out so switch and regular we’re almost the same). Anyways I’m about to watch another video of yours on stance with to see what I can learn. Thanks again for your complete comment, your time, and suggestions. I really appreciate it. Mahalo. Aloha. 🤙🤙

@@mikeuptegrove this is still super confusing. Your disc on the bent metals is a so called mini disc. You’re supposed to use the board inserts directly next to each other. So the bolts will form a rectangle rather than a square. That way, no matter what you do, you must be able to use all four bolts. And that’s what you should do!!! The slots in the discs should run tip to tail, rather than edge to edge. With that orientation of the discs you get micro adjustment of your stance width!! Then, to centre the boots across the board, you use the heel cup size adjustment. If you can’t get close to a centred boot in any of the size options, the binding is simply the wrong size. I hope this makes sense! With a size ten, I agree, you should start thinking of a wider board. 260mm waist is the very minimum. 270 probably the maximum for all mountain riding. Depends a bit on preference and riding style/level. If you ever want to support my channel, you can do that here since a few weeks ago: buymeacoffee.com/justaride I’m stoked about any support. 😊🙏

@@t.blaschke7461 thanks!! I really gotta do legs….. 😅

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel 😅 who doesn't 😆

@@dont4get2wipe just made a slant board. Getting there… 😅 Great comment! Thanks!! Yes, k.o.t. guy is awesome!!

Yeah, that’s a fun one. Challenging!

@@Jagi125 glad you found comfort in your choices! That’s what it’s all about. We’re all different, and wide/narrow are relative terms.

She’s like: “wtf are you doing, Lars? Take a nap!” 😂

I'm not quite sure how to take that comment... If I choose to not interpret anything into it at all, the answer is no, not the case! I've been doing everything inside a rather small living room before, and even in some park at some point. You don't need a yard, and certainly not one in Fernie. - If I choose to read humour into it: Yeah, it's pretty nice and we appreciate every minute in this yard! - If I choose to read some form of 'envious stabbing' into it: I've worked jobs that paid about 20 to 25 bucks an hour my entire life (relatively speaking... inflation and such....). I never inherited a penny. I've worked very hard for literally everything I have, and my parents taught me how to save up - since they had roughly nothing. We bought the second cheapest possible place in Fernie at the time with the last penny we could find. From then onwards it's been tight budgeting and insane amounts of labour with minimal material cost. Everything you see in this video we built ourselves without a single helping hand over two full summers. Besides that I did everything the place needed inside myself, too. The first summer of renovations I biked twice! I worked on this place from May to mid November every single day. It was hell. Last year, second summer was close to that but a little more free time. And now I'm enjoying it, and I'm making a video in my wonderful yard in Fernie. And I'm hyper allergic to anybody telling me anything about privilege. It creates a victim mentality that helps nobody. That's my three options. You pick what fits and disregard the rest, please! 🙂

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel it's just a humerous comment on the perfect body shape. We are living in Stuttgart in Germany on 80 square meter with two children aged 14 and 16, having just a small balcony an paying 2400 CAD a month. A house and a simple garden are just not affordable in Stuttgart. Why are we living here? Because of a big car brand, not because we are native born here or because of a wonderful environment.

@@cb1p111 that’s how I grew up… 74 m2…. Ruhrgebiet.

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel me too... Grew up in Radevormwald. Went to school in Wuppertal

Nice one!! Glad you like my content. If you ever feel like it deserves some support, you can buy me a coffee here 😊🙏 Have fun out there!! 👍🤙 buymeacoffee.com/justaride

Maybe start with lifting the foot up by using thin insole shims under the actual insole.

Awesome comment!! Thank you for sharing! The Shorty will be the best one out of those. Biru is too wide and an aggressive turner. Descender is stiff and a sluggish turner in comparison, it’s more meant for speed stability than for turning (turns great, but requires much more effort!). Shorty is simply smooth and does what you want it to do, both, in powder and on groomers. Absolutely fantastic board.

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thank you for your insights! That was kind of how I was thinking too from reading Strandas descriptions! In that case I think I will focus on trying the Shorty in multiple lengths if possible! I'm not the most confident snowboarder (yet), but I'm thinking I should probably go for the 164 over 159 to have a bit more board to "grow into"? I do have that skiiers mentality of wanting to improve my technique every time I am on the mountain like you talked about in the video about snowboarding having grown up, I'm that exact 34 year old person you were talking about. So as long as it's not unbearably difficult I think I would prefer a board that challenges me while still feeling nimble.. maybe I shouldn't be afraid to try the 169 either? I also want to try a Bataleon board I think, because I want to try their funky 3D shaped nose and tail and see what it feels like. I'm skeptical but at the same time intrigued by the design! Thank you once again for all the insights you are sharing with us and for putting it in terms that are easy to understand!

@@SuperPhelix thanks for the appreciation! If switch is not on the menu, you could try a 162 Tree Surfer. Same bottom contour as Shorty, maybe a hint softer, slightly easier to turn. The 169 Shorty is too much. 164 will be something to grow into. Stranda is torsionally stiffer than other boards. So 164 is quite some board, although it turns super nicely. Tree Surfer definitely turns easier. Feel free to support me here: buymeacoffee.com/justaride Much appreciated!! 🙏😊

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Much appreciated!

Nein, ein Stranda Cheater 170W :-)

Awesome!! Thanks for sharing!! Glad you like my stuff. 😊🙌

Makes total sense!! Most every skier who also rides that I know finds ++ much more efficient. There’s comfort in facing more down the hill. Love the comment! Thanks for sharing!

Fair enough. My best trick is the turn. 😊

Ha! Nice one!! 🤙

Haha, yeah…. Board stiffness is hilarious!! 😂 Kind of a joke, really.

as someone who didnt skate and picked up light surfskating 3 years ago I can tell you its very easy to get into and drastically improved my snowboarding

Brave it!!! 😊

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel 😂

I started surfskating on Carvers before tradition popsicle skating. For me at least surfskating was pretty intuitive, but I ate shit a bunch learning to push and carve transition on the popsicle. Fwiw I like popsicle better at the skatepark in transition, but surfskatea if I'm just cruising down the block on flatground or light hills.

I’m turning 50. I use to skateboard and a decade ago I got my old board out with the kids and I was a little surprised I could still Ollie. Only over 2 decks which was about 1/3 of what I use to… but I guess continuing to snowboard kept some muscle memory. I always thought long boards were lame, but now that I’m freecarving I’m having second thoughts. What’s the best for a pump track? (There’s one being built in my neighborhood).

I'm like that,goofyskate. Reg.ft.surf.

You're totally on point! I'm aiming to add a long wheelbase deck eventually. It's clearly more like snowboarding when you have a larger WB. If it wasn't for my silly idea to do this goofy, I would have gotten a bigger one. But this way it's really, really challenging me, since it's so responsive and tippy... Applying all those micro movements goofy in a posi surf stance is hopefully gonna make me a better snowboarder all together. The whole thing is much more agile than a snowboard, of course. I don't think it actually compares. But it surely has many elements of it! In particular in the micro ankle/knee movements and hip/chest rotation. Cool to hear I'm not alone with the idea 🙂

Always go by the bigger foot to avoid a bad time... The numbers alone don't help as they're not always perfectly accurate. The shell fit matters!! If you have your setup at 25.5 and you can only fit one finger behind the heel, the 12mm liner is gonna be too thick and you have to go 9mm. With 1.5 to 2 fingers you'll need the 12mm.

Thank you, Lars. BTW, which Intuition liner do you ride with?

@@davidmcfall5926 The old FX Race! In the future I'll try the DH / Dual Density 9mm Tongue.

I can relate to that experience! Have seen it many times! Nice comment! ✌

164 due to your weight. It’s on the wider side for your boot. But will be fine.

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel tnxx.great channel. Great great content.

@@zoheirjavaheri1605 ....obviously this is overly simplified advice!!! 164 is a big board for your height if it was your go to tree slayer..... It all depends on the desired outcome!

On some boards for rare occasions I use pads from 'Padride'. They do the job, but there's room for improvement. They're definitely the thickest I've ever seen and give lots of clearance. I'll be uploading a review on those this fall. If you get in touch with them, tell them you've found the product through me. It'll help me next season... Thank you very much!

I will. Thanks!!!

What are your first thoughts about the improvements, can you share these please?

@@stevenvanderkaag board becomes tippy! Less effort to get it on edge, which makes it more responsive, so you may dial it back a notch and start edging a little more carefully. Quicker edge to edge. More angulation without booting out. Mellower binding angles become possible, if wanted. Board becomes significantly heavier on chair lifts without foot rests.

Yeah, I’m with you. Good approach.

Thanks!! Glad to hear that! 😊🙏

The Expert can be used out of the box without modifications. They’re soft enough to ride in. At least in my opinion. The Pro is already a bit stiffer and not so great in the down without mods.

You’re correct. And you I’m going to make a video where I will correct this. Someone else already brought this up. The reality is that the flex in combination with sidecut radius of the board is the limit to turn tightness. Except for that statement, I think the video is still pointing out the right thing. I say at one point that changing EE would call for changing the flex, too. However, what you are pointing out is absolutely correct!! Thanks for the comment!!

The Biru is not all that soft. It’s a performance board. It’s like. K2 Party Platter on steroids. Stiffer, faster base, can take bigger drops and higher rider weight. It’s still a side hits board and fits well with your others. But it’s not a soft board by any means.

@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel thank you