An absolutely brilliant and informative Video. I really appreciate the time and effort you took here to show your methods and tips to remove those bloody angled studs (forget the microphone glitch !!!). This must be one of the worst Stag V8 engines I have ever seen. Another suggestion to un-seize/ free-off these angled studs is what I read from Saab Mechanics in Sweden, many years ago, whilst working on their Dolomite derived Saab engines. The Saab guys used a Heavy Duty Air Impact Hammer (with a flat hardened head bit) to directly hammer the stud head, in order to shock and loosen the stud from within the Cylinder head. I would recommend that 2 nuts are firstly screwed down and locked onto the stud (but leaving a gap between the head and stud). This will provide extra strength to the stud and minimise it ‘mushrooming’ over at the end. Diesel, Paraffin or Plus Gas squirted around the top of the stud will also help to free the stud. Hope this helps !
I love the welding burns on the shirt. My girlfriend (now wife) once arrived to find me on fire after doing some welding under my TR6. I have plenty of welding shirts and Jumpers in stock now. I will be trying this stud welding trick this morning on a mk2 Stag in Ireland. Thanks for all the informative Vidoes includng the bolt and nut sizes etc
Hey, guess what? I have a stag in my garage now. One head came off no problem, double nutted a treat. Other head is being a pain. Did get 3 out, 1 snapped and the other snapped after trying to weld a nut on. So Tomorrow's job is to make a bracket and try and use a jack to get it to move. Thanks for the video and wish me luck. I will feature the whole debacle on my channel sometime in the future. All the best, Mart. PS mic problems can be a pain can't they. I do all my filming on my phone now. Saves all the unreliable mic problems.
Mart is my 'Go To Guy'. Innovative, determined, resourceful, easy to understand and a down right good guy. Totally enjoyed your presentation! 100% Great to view another Brit with such extensive knowledge. Thanks from Rochester, NY, USA.
Brilliant ! Well that was the first time iv seen that bracket in use , Iv got a mk 1 to strip next and boy will it be stuck , I tried the very expensive large bracket tool that I borrowed witch pressed on top of the studs didn't budge , so this week out with the mig and get me some steel , Iv got the bottle jack , it would seem it's the only way !!
The four cylinder ohc engines give less head gasket problems, assume it's because there isn't the v8 style inlet manifold holding them apart so to speak. Was that a tr7 2.0?
You can't get the ring spanner on the bottom nut on the end studs due to the head casting being tight, to be fair they don't often come out double nutted anyhow, but it's always the first method to try
A Triumph? I had one once and it was a bit amusing seeing parts on the road in the rear view (when it wasn't hanging). I had a TR7...clunk..what was that? Felt like a ran over something. Yea it was the front spoiler and there it was in the rear view mirror. Also there was a gascap hole moving from car to car in various parking lots.
An absolutely brilliant and informative Video. I really appreciate the time and effort you took here to show your methods and tips to remove those bloody angled studs (forget the microphone glitch !!!). This must be one of the worst Stag V8 engines I have ever seen. Another suggestion to un-seize/ free-off these angled studs is what I read from Saab Mechanics in Sweden, many years ago, whilst working on their Dolomite derived Saab engines. The Saab guys used a Heavy Duty Air Impact Hammer (with a flat hardened head bit) to directly hammer the stud head, in order to shock and loosen the stud from within the Cylinder head. I would recommend that 2 nuts are firstly screwed down and locked onto the stud (but leaving a gap between the head and stud). This will provide extra strength to the stud and minimise it ‘mushrooming’ over at the end. Diesel, Paraffin or Plus Gas squirted around the top of the stud will also help to free the stud. Hope this helps !
I love the welding burns on the shirt. My girlfriend (now wife) once arrived to find me on fire after doing some welding under my TR6. I have plenty of welding shirts and Jumpers in stock now.
I will be trying this stud welding trick this morning on a mk2 Stag in Ireland.
Thanks for all the informative Vidoes includng the bolt and nut sizes etc
I used to wear overalls, but they just trap the molten metal next to your skin lol. I get burnt that often I don't even flinch anymore!
Hey, guess what? I have a stag in my garage now. One head came off no problem, double nutted a treat. Other head is being a pain. Did get 3 out, 1 snapped and the other snapped after trying to weld a nut on. So Tomorrow's job is to make a bracket and try and use a jack to get it to move. Thanks for the video and wish me luck. I will feature the whole debacle on my channel sometime in the future. All the best, Mart. PS mic problems can be a pain can't they. I do all my filming on my phone now. Saves all the unreliable mic problems.
Mart is my 'Go To Guy'. Innovative, determined, resourceful, easy to understand and a down right good guy. Totally enjoyed your presentation! 100% Great to view another Brit with such extensive knowledge. Thanks from Rochester, NY, USA.
Brilliant ! Well that was the first time iv seen that bracket in use , Iv got a mk 1 to strip next and boy will it be stuck , I tried the very expensive large bracket tool that I borrowed witch pressed on top of the studs didn't budge , so this week out with the mig and get me some steel , Iv got the bottle jack , it would seem it's the only way !!
It works every time, I can't take the credit for it as i got it from my ex boss, but it's worth it's weight in gold
Truly Fab detailed so many thanks
I've dealt with a 4 Cyl triumph years ago with this head stud array and I did not care for it at all. All the studs did come out for me.
The four cylinder ohc engines give less head gasket problems, assume it's because there isn't the v8 style inlet manifold holding them apart so to speak. Was that a tr7 2.0?
when you tighten the 2 nuts to remove the head stud, use a ring spanner on the bottom nut , then you can double spanner the ring for extra leverage .
You can't get the ring spanner on the bottom nut on the end studs due to the head casting being tight, to be fair they don't often come out double nutted anyhow, but it's always the first method to try
A Triumph? I had one once and it was a bit amusing seeing parts on the road in the rear view (when it wasn't hanging). I had a TR7...clunk..what was that? Felt like a ran over something. Yea it was the front spoiler and there it was in the rear view mirror. Also there was a gascap hole moving from car to car in various parking lots.
Yea like all cars of that era you need to keep up with maintenance
Try and keep your info flashes on screen a little longer they disappear too quick to read without rewinding, otherwise very informative 👍
Will do, sorry about that, it's all a learning curve!
What happened to this one, this is the latest video on it I can find? Did the owner give up when they realised the extend of work needed still?
No, it needs some welding, nut the owner is out of the country a lot, so it's ended up on the back burner, should be back on with it soon
UNC, UNF, 7/16 AF...all the kids left the chat.
😂😂
🤦It's "aluminum" not "allyouminimum" 🤨
Just kidding 🤘
Cheers from the PNW Seattle WA.
😂😂
I wish the sound worked!
Is this the ticking timebomb Triumph engine?
I think ticking time bomb is probably a bit harsh, but you do have to keep on top of their maintenance, use correct coolant etc