I've replaced rear callipers with Nissin marked A10CL. Rear brake pads Nissin npo-132wsa or compatible for Odyssey. Bolt on installation. The callipers are bigger, hammer is useful toot to clear some extra space for installation :)
VERY well done ! I own a 2003 Element and have had the seized caliper problem, actually more than once, but on different wheels. Thanks for posting. Keep the Element videos coming.
Thank you! I appreciate it, and welcome aboard, thank you for subscribing! I can generally only make Element videos if something needs fixing or it is a service interval, but I will continue. Alden.
Ha! It only looks expensive. Through the magic of digital video (and poor lighting) it appears to be a fine oriental/Persian rug. It is actually made of recycled plastic (soda bottles, I believe they said on the tag) Cushions my old bones on the concrete floor and keeps the chill off in the winter. The added bonus is the pattern hides (most) drips and stains. All for a fraction of the cost of those rubberized "floor system" tiles for garages. Alden
Very important info missing from your video: 1. Apply silicone lube and slider pins otherwise your pins might seize 2. Apply synthetic brake grease to the backing plates of the brake pads otherwise your rear brakes may squeal 3. Use a torque wrench and torque all the bolts to spec. You will need a Helm manual to get all the bolt torque specs.
OK, so, this is your second comment on this video. The caliper in this video is factory/rebuild fresh. The pins are pre-lubed and have tight dust cover sleeves of accordion-ribbed rubber. I do not recommend prying them off, possibly ripping the sleeves to apply even more silicone lube to them. Reinstalling a used one? Lubing the pins is a really good idea.. As to greasing the backing plates, read the instructions that come with your pads. Different brands have different requirements. This particular set specifically stated that grease was not required to reduce squealing. It depends on whether the pads come with shims attached. I am not a mechanic or auto technician, and you will notice,I never claim to be. I suspect the majority of people looking on UA-cam to find fixes for their cars are not either. The chances they have torque tools and car manuals are vanishingly small. This is UA-cam, a free service, not a Vo-Tech or college-level instructional class, so please try not to compare content you view here with classes you may have taken. Those instructional videos cost thousands of dollars to produce and they charge you accordingly.
I have the same year and model and have done the same job. The video was good except for one omission and one misconception.. This video omitted lubricating the ears of the brake pads- required for EVERY type of pad, regardless of the backing plate construction. There is no permanent type factory coating/lubricant that will withstand the abrasion caused by a combination brake dust (fine rust), water, and road dust. The dissimilar alloys off the mis-named "stainless steel and the brake pad ears will cause rust deposition and binding. Normal piston movement is imperceptible - thousands of an inch, the pads are normally separated by the air turbulence between them and the rotor. The (aluminum) piston seal is a bellows, it doesn't retract the piston, the pads push it back. The seals only function is to keep the piston sides clean so it can slide through the square-cut seal.The pads get separated from the rotor surface through a combination of the run out of the rotor, the contraction of the rotor as it cools, plus bearing play as the vehicle moves.
I actually did that separately but didn't include it in this video. 3 years later I remembered to turn on the camera and made a rotor replacement video: ua-cam.com/video/YEKyqFarJgU/v-deo.html
I recently did this same fix on my Jeep Wrangler, it had locked up while my wife was driving. I had the rotors re surfaced because the extreme heat had warped the rotor.
We actually ended up replacing the rotors, which became super rusty in a short period of time. That video is at: ua-cam.com/video/YEKyqFarJgU/v-deo.html
Thanks! Yes, the pins can certainly jam and hang the caliper up and burn through brake pads fast. When I was researching this fix on the web, I was surprised how common a fail it seems, especially on the passenger-side rear. So maybe there is something about that location that has an inherent problem. I do get some comments on the carpet. It is actually much less fancy than it seems, made of recycled plastic soda bottles. (or so the tag claims) Keeps me off the concrete though. (and the pattern helps hide stains!)
FlashDriveFilms Interesting, mine was on the driver side, altough I replace the rear struts on both side with new honda pre-load struts label left and right. The one that were on the Element originally were both left side (the spring coil in opposite direction L and R) the original installation coil in the same direction both L ....could this be the problem? Cheers
Joe Baker Hard to say. The thing with floating calipers, is that they have to float, to slide freely, back & forth. So anything that can jam them, like corrosion or dirt or a loose bracket that allows the caliper to twist, rather than slide, is going to be a problem. I'm not sure if a strut, or coiled spring would cause the brake to deflect enough to jam things, but to have a left-hand strut assembly on both sides does seem rather strange.
greetings from South Africa, watching for tips, as i have recently found that my mag wheels are pretty hot to the touch, never mind the discs. Its crazy, my car as only done 45 000 km and its just been for a service at Honda , they only change the oil and sump plug and bleed the brakes. I double checked they did not change pads. Only the last few days i have noticed that as i get home or to work, i smell a dry burn and i am not sure where it is coming from , i smelt the bonnet and he brake area.. cant pin point it, but i am thinking i am starting to suspect the wheel or brake area... i notice my mags are very hot to the touch , i cant leave my hand on it for longer than 5 seconds. What do you reckon ?
Well when the wheels on our Element got scaldingly hot, as you describe, we found it was the brake caliper related fix that I ended up making the video about. However: I am reluctant to diagnose things over the internet. On your car it could be the same thing wrong, or it could be several other possibilities. (Stuck parking brake? Bad wheel bearing?) So watch the video, pull a wheel and see if maybe you are having the same problem we had. Alden
Hi great video. Having problems with my CRV rear wheels getting hot? I thought I had a stuck caliper so replaced the drivers side after new pads caused this hot wheel symptoms. Everything had been greased and checked by a garage but still it’s getting hot now on both sides? Only thing left to change is the rotors? Do you think this could be the problem?
Hi! Well it is hard to diagnose things over the internet. I would definitely recommend watching my Rusty Rotor video ua-cam.com/video/YEKyqFarJgU/v-deo.html And see if that might help. If your rotors look like the one in the video, that may well be the source of the problem. Alden
Thanks for your reply I think it’s my rotors as they are worn slightly and there is an lip on the top which might be catching on the new pads. Thanks hope it works
Ok so fitted new discs today and still have this hot wheel thing getting incredibly annoyed now and I’m out of ideas on what’s causing this. Putting me off Honda’s if I’m honest.
OK, is there any chance the parking brake is hung up? Like a rusty/tight cable not letting the internal brake shoe retract? The only other thing I can think of if you've done the calipers/pads/rotors is the actual flexible brake line from the body to the wheel. If that is deteriorated and collapsed it would keep the fluid pressure up and prevent the service brake pads from retracting. I have to believe the heat is coming from the friction of brake parts against the rotor somehow. (as I said, hard to diagnose things over the internet) Alden
Thanks for the quick reply. My mechanic says he has checked all the hand brake shoes sliders clips etc are all free I did however put the old pads which was a week old on new rotors as didn’t think they would be a problem. Both wheels get warm especially the right rear? Next thing to chick is the hand brake cable and adjustment I guess. Running out of ideas. How loose do the sliders have to be they are loose and free so don’t think it’s them.
You do not need to change your brake lines unless they are leaking or cracked. You did not bleed out air bubbles in the brake line after installation. I would only use Honda brake fluid. I would not mix in another brand of brake fluid.
Thank you for watching my video and providing feedback. You are 100% correct that replacing the flexible brake line was not mandatory. I was already committed to opening the hydraulic system to replace the caliper, and the brake line was under $20 . I prefer to replace things before they leak or crack. I did, however, remove the air bubbles from the brake hose by actually bleeding the brakes by the process starting at the 5:40 mark. I do agree that Honda fluids are the best choice for things like transmission, differential and power steering as they are proprietary formulas compatible with the seals and characteristics of Honda vehicles. Brake fluid, however, is Federally regulated and as stated on the container “Compatible with all braking systems” , so I have no concerns about using it. If money is no object, ALWAYS go with the manufacturers brand for all parts and fluids. Just don’t overlook that there are thriftier alternatives that work just as well.
Excellent. I just did another one about a week ago. I was surprised to find the replacement rebuilt caliper had an 11mm banjo bolt at the flexible line fitting. Still worked fine, just had to get a different wrench than what I used to take off the old one. Good luck & enjoy!
Hi! Yes, pads replaced correctly, vehicle used on pavement, no off-roading, not even terribly deep snow etc.The fast wear is a common problem on the Element rear caliper. Defect? Design flaw? Not for me to say, but just google "Honda Element Caliper Problem" and lots of forum discussions out there about it. (here's one: www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69003) Alden
What you only need is to change the bushings on the brake caliper piston, and grease up the caliper and add enough brake oil in your car and your won't car glow red again
I actually lost the core on a part many years ago (I think it was a drive axle) and ever since, I have been very careful to keep the box, receipt and all the brackets etc needed to get he deposit back.Glad you liked the video! Alden
Ha! I try to make it one task = one video. If THIS one triggered OCD you are going to hate my Rusty Rotor video ua-cam.com/video/YEKyqFarJgU/v-deo.html mostly because I don't change the parking brake shoes while I have the rotor off. You'll hate that one, when I make it, because I won't have done the wheel bearing, the wheel bearing video will have nothing about doing the CV joints, or axle, differential, drive shaft.... You are just going to have to wait a few years for the final program where I jack up the key and put a new car under it! :-) Thank you fr watching & commenting and I will continue to try to do my best. Alden
You should apply silicone lube to the pads and slider pins otherwise they'll rust and seize. Other grease lubes will degrade the rubber boots on the slider pins. My dealer failed my inspection because my caliper was seized. He wanted $300 for a new caliper. No thanks. Did it myself. I thought he meant the piston was seized but the piston was fine, the problem was the slider pins had rusted and seized. I removed caliper and unstuck the rusted pin with penetrating oil and a torch and lots of twisting. Cleaned them up, bought new boots for $5, cleaned everything with brake cleaner ($4), put silicone lube on slider pins and pads, and reinstalled caliper. Total cost about $20.
i had a red hot front right wheel and dragging, i replaced the caliper and though it didnt get hot again till today, the dragging was still there. that was a month ago, today it knocked and got red hot again...could this be my bearing??
Absolutely. You say it was making a knocking noise, usually with a bad bearing is a sort of "thrumming" sound that changes speed with the vehicle speed. You can jack up the car, with the wheel still on (use jack stands too!) and grasp the tire, 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock, and try to pull and push the wheel straight towards/away. Clunking & movement may indicate a bad wheel bearing. I have not (yet?) had a front wheel bearing problem on our Element, so I do not have a video about this service, but there seems to be a lot of videos out there about bearing fixes from other UA-camrs. The other thing I would check is the flexible brake hose that leads to the front caliper. If it is damaged or collapsed (it can & does happen) this pinch point keeps the brake pads from retracting and will generate friction, heat and noise. Alden
FlashDriveFilms thank you, it was strange because it seemed to start and then go away and be alright so when i checked for play in the wheel i felt nothing. perhaps now that it is active i will feel the play...i thought it was coming from the left, but today it was definitely the right by the heat. it may be beneficial to change both bearings i think
Yes, if it turns out to be the bearing, doing both at he same time gives a lot of peace of mind. I would only do one if I was really constrained by time, money, working conditions etc. Just like struts, brake pads etc, doing both sides can really save a lot by not having to go back in there all too soon. Alden
I took my car took brakeway because my wheel was hot and smelled like it was burning. They said my calipers were good and charged me lots of money to replace other shit. Today my wheel is even hotter and I burned my finger on a lug nut. Plus the smell is unbearable. I'm afraid my car is going to ignite. What is wrong with my car? Help!
If your repair shop determined that it was not the caliper, the only really effective other items it could be are the brake pads and the rotor.( I ended up replacing all three items on both sides of the car to finally chase away the hot wheel syndrome.) You might also check the parking brake, the cable may be rusted, or the shoes jammed and that is causing the heat. Clearly, something is still chaffing, pads against the rotor, or the rotor against something else. It really is quite difficult to diagnose things over the internet. Alden
FlashDriveFilms I took my car to another shop, and they said they also cannot find anything wrong. Everything is in perfect working order. Nobody knows why my wheel is burning up.
Well then I am stumped too. I have to suspect that the brake pads are somehow not retracting or are jammed somehow against the rotor in such a way that they keep rubbing as the car goes down the road. How they are doing that, other than a bad caliper or damage of some kind, I don't now. Alden
Heat means friction therefore something is rubbing against something. Has to be one or more of the following: Pads dragging against rotor (stuck caliper), parking brake dragging, dried out or rusted wheel bearing, rotor rubbing against dust shield.
great editing and voiceover! This is the gold standard of quick how-to videos.
2021 and this video just walked me through my entire repair job. Good stuff!
Thank you! Once you see how it works, it is easier to decide what is possible.
I've replaced rear callipers with Nissin marked A10CL. Rear brake pads Nissin npo-132wsa or compatible for Odyssey. Bolt on installation. The callipers are bigger, hammer is useful toot to clear some extra space for installation :)
VERY well done ! I own a 2003 Element and have had the seized caliper problem, actually more than once, but on different wheels. Thanks for posting. Keep the Element videos coming.
Thank you! I appreciate it, and welcome aboard, thank you for subscribing! I can generally only make Element videos if something needs fixing or it is a service interval, but I will continue.
Alden.
My only criticism is you should've attached the new hose to the new caliper. Other than that thank you for this video. it really helped me 🙏
Thank you! Glad it helped. Excellent point about the hose/caliper. I'll show it that way in the next Fiat brake video.
I always pinch off the soft line lightly to minimize fluid loss and it makes bleeding easier when you have the caliper back on
I would make sure the soft line was in excellent shape for that. I am always concerned that I would split an old or dried-out line.
Alden
I also remove my fine oriental rug from my living room to prevent my garage floor from getting dirty.
Ha! It only looks expensive. Through the magic of digital video (and poor lighting) it appears to be a fine oriental/Persian rug. It is actually made of recycled plastic (soda bottles, I believe they said on the tag) Cushions my old bones on the concrete floor and keeps the chill off in the winter. The added bonus is the pattern hides (most) drips and stains. All for a fraction of the cost of those rubberized "floor system" tiles for garages.
Alden
Very important info missing from your video:
1. Apply silicone lube and slider pins otherwise your pins might seize
2. Apply synthetic brake grease to the backing plates of the brake pads otherwise your rear brakes may squeal
3. Use a torque wrench and torque all the bolts to spec. You will need a Helm manual to get all the bolt torque specs.
OK, so, this is your second comment on this video. The caliper in this video is factory/rebuild fresh. The pins are pre-lubed and have tight dust cover sleeves of accordion-ribbed rubber. I do not recommend prying them off, possibly ripping the sleeves to apply even more silicone lube to them. Reinstalling a used one? Lubing the pins is a really good idea..
As to greasing the backing plates, read the instructions that come with your pads. Different brands have different requirements. This particular set specifically stated that grease was not required to reduce squealing. It depends on whether the pads come with shims attached.
I am not a mechanic or auto technician, and you will notice,I never claim to be. I suspect the majority of people looking on UA-cam to find fixes for their cars are not either. The chances they have torque tools and car manuals are vanishingly small. This is UA-cam, a free service, not a Vo-Tech or college-level instructional class, so please try not to compare content you view here with classes you may have taken. Those instructional videos cost thousands of dollars to produce and they charge you accordingly.
I have the same year and model and have done the same job. The video was good except for one omission and one misconception..
This video omitted lubricating the ears of the brake pads- required for EVERY type of pad, regardless of the backing plate construction. There is no permanent type factory coating/lubricant that will withstand the abrasion caused by a combination brake dust (fine rust), water, and road dust. The dissimilar alloys off the mis-named "stainless steel and the brake pad ears will cause rust deposition and binding.
Normal piston movement is imperceptible - thousands of an inch, the pads are normally separated by the air turbulence between them and the rotor. The (aluminum) piston seal is a bellows, it doesn't retract the piston, the pads push it back. The seals only function is to keep the piston sides clean so it can slide through the square-cut seal.The pads get separated from the rotor surface through a combination of the run out of the rotor, the contraction of the rotor as it cools, plus bearing play as the vehicle moves.
Why in the world did you not change the rotor? I could see in the video that it was grooved from the previous wear issues.
If you had a siezed caliper and dragging pads, why wouldn't you replace that rotor? It had to be damaged.
I actually did that separately but didn't include it in this video. 3 years later I remembered to turn on the camera and made a rotor replacement video:
ua-cam.com/video/YEKyqFarJgU/v-deo.html
I recently did this same fix on my Jeep Wrangler, it had locked up while my wife was driving. I had the rotors re surfaced because the extreme heat had warped the rotor.
We actually ended up replacing the rotors, which became super rusty in a short period of time. That video is at:
ua-cam.com/video/YEKyqFarJgU/v-deo.html
Great Video, I change the caliper pins on my element to fix a simular problem. so far so good. Fancy shop carpet
Thanks! Yes, the pins can certainly jam and hang the caliper up and burn through brake pads fast. When I was researching this fix on the web, I was surprised how common a fail it seems, especially on the passenger-side rear. So maybe there is something about that location that has an inherent problem.
I do get some comments on the carpet. It is actually much less fancy than it seems, made of recycled plastic soda bottles. (or so the tag claims) Keeps me off the concrete though. (and the pattern helps hide stains!)
FlashDriveFilms Interesting, mine was on the driver side, altough I replace the rear struts on both side with new honda pre-load struts label left and right. The one that were on the Element originally were both left side (the spring coil in opposite direction L and R) the original installation coil in the same direction both L ....could this be the problem?
Cheers
Joe Baker Hard to say. The thing with floating calipers, is that they have to float, to slide freely, back & forth. So anything that can jam them, like corrosion or dirt or a loose bracket that allows the caliper to twist, rather than slide, is going to be a problem. I'm not sure if a strut, or coiled spring would cause the brake to deflect enough to jam things, but to have a left-hand strut assembly on both sides does seem rather strange.
greetings from South Africa, watching for tips, as i have recently found that my mag wheels are pretty hot to the touch, never mind the discs. Its crazy, my car as only done 45 000 km and its just been for a service at Honda , they only change the oil and sump plug and bleed the brakes. I double checked they did not change pads. Only the last few days i have noticed that as i get home or to work, i smell a dry burn and i am not sure where it is coming from , i smelt the bonnet and he brake area.. cant pin point it, but i am thinking i am starting to suspect the wheel or brake area... i notice my mags are very hot to the touch , i cant leave my hand on it for longer than 5 seconds. What do you reckon ?
Well when the wheels on our Element got scaldingly hot, as you describe, we found it was the brake caliper related fix that I ended up making the video about. However: I am reluctant to diagnose things over the internet. On your car it could be the same thing wrong, or it could be several other possibilities. (Stuck parking brake? Bad wheel bearing?) So watch the video, pull a wheel and see if maybe you are having the same problem we had.
Alden
Hi great video. Having problems with my CRV rear wheels getting hot? I thought I had a stuck caliper so replaced the drivers side after new pads caused this hot wheel symptoms. Everything had been greased and checked by a garage but still it’s getting hot now on both sides? Only thing left to change is the rotors? Do you think this could be the problem?
Hi! Well it is hard to diagnose things over the internet. I would definitely recommend watching my Rusty Rotor video
ua-cam.com/video/YEKyqFarJgU/v-deo.html
And see if that might help. If your rotors look like the one in the video, that may well be the source of the problem.
Alden
Thanks for your reply I think it’s my rotors as they are worn slightly and there is an lip on the top which might be catching on the new pads. Thanks hope it works
Ok so fitted new discs today and still have this hot wheel thing getting incredibly annoyed now and I’m out of ideas on what’s causing this. Putting me off Honda’s if I’m honest.
OK, is there any chance the parking brake is hung up? Like a rusty/tight cable not letting the internal brake shoe retract? The only other thing I can think of if you've done the calipers/pads/rotors is the actual flexible brake line from the body to the wheel. If that is deteriorated and collapsed it would keep the fluid pressure up and prevent the service brake pads from retracting. I have to believe the heat is coming from the friction of brake parts against the rotor somehow. (as I said, hard to diagnose things over the internet)
Alden
Thanks for the quick reply. My mechanic says he has checked all the hand brake shoes sliders clips etc are all free I did however put the old pads which was a week old on new rotors as didn’t think they would be a problem. Both wheels get warm especially the right rear? Next thing to chick is the hand brake cable and adjustment I guess. Running out of ideas. How loose do the sliders have to be they are loose and free so don’t think it’s them.
You do not need to change your brake lines unless they are leaking or cracked. You did not bleed out air bubbles in the brake line after installation. I would only use Honda brake fluid. I would not mix in another brand of brake fluid.
Thank you for watching my video and providing feedback. You are 100% correct that replacing the flexible brake line was not mandatory. I was already committed to opening the hydraulic system to replace the caliper, and the brake line was under $20 . I prefer to replace things before they leak or crack. I did, however, remove the air bubbles from the brake hose by actually bleeding the brakes by the process starting at the 5:40 mark.
I do agree that Honda fluids are the best choice for things like transmission, differential and power steering as they are proprietary formulas compatible with the seals and characteristics of Honda vehicles. Brake fluid, however, is Federally regulated and as stated on the container “Compatible with all braking systems” , so I have no concerns about using it. If money is no object, ALWAYS go with the manufacturers brand for all parts and fluids. Just don’t overlook that there are thriftier alternatives that work just as well.
Great video have a 2008 element did the same thing
Thanks! Yes, the rear brakes do seem to be a common issue on the Element. I have read about several other people having the same thing happen.
Alden
Nice. Doing this this weekend.
Excellent. I just did another one about a week ago. I was surprised to find the replacement rebuilt caliper had an 11mm banjo bolt at the flexible line fitting. Still worked fine, just had to get a different wrench than what I used to take off the old one. Good luck & enjoy!
where and in what do u drive to get the caliper toast in only 70k? did u regrease the pins at every pad change?
Hi!
Yes, pads replaced correctly, vehicle used on pavement, no off-roading, not even terribly deep snow etc.The fast wear is a common problem on the Element rear caliper. Defect? Design flaw? Not for me to say, but just google "Honda Element Caliper Problem" and lots of forum discussions out there about it.
(here's one: www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69003)
Alden
What you only need is to change the bushings on the brake caliper piston, and grease up the caliper and add enough brake oil in your car and your won't car glow red again
That might fix it too. Write your script, plan your video, shoot it, edit it, and upload it! I'd love to see that!
Alden
My core charge was $136.00
Caliper was $106.00
Super easy to diy. Canadian funds btw
I actually lost the core on a part many years ago (I think it was a drive axle) and ever since, I have been very careful to keep the box, receipt and all the brackets etc needed to get he deposit back.Glad you liked the video!
Alden
New caliber with old rotor triggered my OCD
Ha! I try to make it
one task = one video.
If THIS one triggered OCD you are going to hate my Rusty Rotor video
ua-cam.com/video/YEKyqFarJgU/v-deo.html
mostly because I don't change the parking brake shoes while I have the rotor off. You'll hate that one, when I make it, because I won't have done the wheel bearing, the wheel bearing video will have nothing about doing the CV joints, or axle, differential, drive shaft....
You are just going to have to wait a few years for the final program where I jack up the key and put a new car under it! :-)
Thank you fr watching & commenting and I will continue to try to do my best.
Alden
FlashDriveFilms are you trying to kill me? Lol
You should apply silicone lube to the pads and slider pins otherwise they'll rust and seize. Other grease lubes will degrade the rubber boots on the slider pins.
My dealer failed my inspection because my caliper was seized. He wanted $300 for a new caliper. No thanks. Did it myself. I thought he meant the piston was seized but the piston was fine, the problem was the slider pins had rusted and seized. I removed caliper and unstuck the rusted pin with penetrating oil and a torch and lots of twisting. Cleaned them up, bought new boots for $5, cleaned everything with brake cleaner ($4), put silicone lube on slider pins and pads, and reinstalled caliper. Total cost about $20.
i had a red hot front right wheel and dragging, i replaced the caliper and though it didnt get hot again till today, the dragging was still there. that was a month ago, today it knocked and got red hot again...could this be my bearing??
Absolutely. You say it was making a knocking noise, usually with a bad bearing is a sort of "thrumming" sound that changes speed with the vehicle speed. You can jack up the car, with the wheel still on (use jack stands too!) and grasp the tire, 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock, and try to pull and push the wheel straight towards/away. Clunking & movement may indicate a bad wheel bearing. I have not (yet?) had a front wheel bearing problem on our Element, so I do not have a video about this service, but there seems to be a lot of videos out there about bearing fixes from other UA-camrs. The other thing I would check is the flexible brake hose that leads to the front caliper. If it is damaged or collapsed (it can & does happen) this pinch point keeps the brake pads from retracting and will generate friction, heat and noise.
Alden
FlashDriveFilms thank you, it was strange because it seemed to start and then go away and be alright so when i checked for play in the wheel i felt nothing. perhaps now that it is active i will feel the play...i thought it was coming from the left, but today it was definitely the right by the heat. it may be beneficial to change both bearings i think
Yes, if it turns out to be the bearing, doing both at he same time gives a lot of peace of mind. I would only do one if I was really constrained by time, money, working conditions etc. Just like struts, brake pads etc, doing both sides can really save a lot by not having to go back in there all too soon.
Alden
I took my car took brakeway because my wheel was hot and smelled like it was burning. They said my calipers were good and charged me lots of money to replace other shit. Today my wheel is even hotter and I burned my finger on a lug nut. Plus the smell is unbearable. I'm afraid my car is going to ignite. What is wrong with my car? Help!
If your repair shop determined that it was not the caliper, the only really effective other items it could be are the brake pads and the rotor.( I ended up replacing all three items on both sides of the car to finally chase away the hot wheel syndrome.) You might also check the parking brake, the cable may be rusted, or the shoes jammed and that is causing the heat. Clearly, something is still chaffing, pads against the rotor, or the rotor against something else. It really is quite difficult to diagnose things over the internet.
Alden
FlashDriveFilms I took my car to another shop, and they said they also cannot find anything wrong. Everything is in perfect working order. Nobody knows why my wheel is burning up.
Well then I am stumped too. I have to suspect that the brake pads are somehow not retracting or are jammed somehow against the rotor in such a way that they keep rubbing as the car goes down the road. How they are doing that, other than a bad caliper or damage of some kind, I don't now.
Alden
Heat means friction therefore something is rubbing against something. Has to be one or more of the following: Pads dragging against rotor (stuck caliper), parking brake dragging, dried out or rusted wheel bearing, rotor rubbing against dust shield.
I love your voice!
Thanks! I always think it sounds strange when I hear it played back to me!
Alden
You do narration for your career don't you? Good Video
Thank you! But, no, I'm not a professional narrator, I just play one on UA-cam!