How to Rebuild a Brake Caliper Fast & Easy
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- How to Rebuild a Brake Caliper--A complete guide. In this video, I rebuild a single piston brake caliper from a 2008 Honda Civic. This procedure is applicable to multi-piston calipers as well.
*ONLY use DOT approved brake fluid as lubricants during your rebuild. Non-DOT lubricants can damage your braking system. - Навчання та стиль
Red Rubber Grease is totally compatible with DOT 4 fluids. It can be used to pack the dust boot to prevent ingress of salt and muck...unlike the Dot 4 fluid.
Hello. That’s good to know. I’ll definitely do that next time. Seems like that step would increase the life of the boot. Thanks!
@@FastFixUA-cam There is no need to pack the boot the boot will allow air to pass but not water or dirt. If you pack it it could make the boot pop off under air pressure.
@@FastFixUA-cam You do NOT have to install the dust seal over the large dia. part of the piston first as you did here! Just install it into the indent on the piston where it is supposed to seat, and then push the piston into the bore all the way, and then push the rubber seal in with your fingers into the outer bore indent where it is supposed to seat, it goes in no problem at all! Then install the metal ring, and your done!
😅@@retydown7521
DO NOT crimp the brake hose line this guy did! Unless you want more problems.
Here's how to do it:
Before you remove the brake line, disconnect the battery. Slightly depress the brake pedal. Slightly less than 1/2 inch after the pedal touches the pushrod and use something like a stick or dowel to hold it there. Now get to work.
Doing this moves the piston past the inlet and return ports of the master cylinder so no fluid can leak down from the reservoirs. You'll just get a few drops out. If it's a metal line going in I clean and place the dust cap from the bleeder over the line if it's going to be apart for a while. You disconnect your battery because you probably don't want your brake lights on while you're working.
DON'T CRIMP YOUR BRAKE HOSES KIDS!
☝️ this!
That piston boost is the hardest things for me in the past but after watching this videos I got an idea. Thank
You’re welcome!
saved me after I destroyed the original and i did not want to ruin the new one going on/in thank you so much.I've watched it again just to refresh my brain rebuilt the left side and now the right side thanks again man !
You’re very welcome! Glad this helped 👍
Didnt realize till like 6 hours ago calipers can be rebuilt, so im going to jump to it and do the same on my pickup. Beats paying a lot for new calipers, and just as easy to snap in a new piston as it is to replace a whole caliper. Good video!
I hear ya! I didn’t think about rebuilding until I got quoted the price for a new one. It’s definitely easier to buy rebuilt, but if you can rebuild for a fraction of the cost, why not? Just keep in mind it’s a bit tedious and will take some time 👍
Yup! But when you try to get a caliper rebuild kit(seal & dust boot) at a parts store they look puzzled & tell you caliper rebuild kits don't return anything on there computer search. They want to hose you by selling an overpriced rebuilt for 60$ or more. The kits are around 10$ & they don't make as much if they sold them.
You saved me 282 dollars. Thank you. You are the man!
You’re welcome! Glad this helped save the money! Comment appreciated 👍
Strong work my friend!!! It's crazy how expensive Calipers are, but how cheap and easy they can be rebuilt!!!
Yes sir! As long as people are willing to do the work, they can save money! Thanks for commenting 👍
@@FastFixUA-cam Absolutely!!!! Many ppl in this world think a repair is just installing a replacement part, never considering that the part being replaced is made up of smaller parts! My Father had a word for them, he called them "Parts Changers" and he never considered those types to be true professionals!!!I saw the light on "Component Level Repairs" years ago! Some parts are expensive, like the Calipers being featured in this video, and some aren't even in production anymore. So learning component level repair is a must!
@@srtech2205 man, I 100% agree! I rarely meet people who know how to change their own windshield wipers these days. sign of the times? Maybe…. Lol, that’s a good word for those people. I had a harsher saying “bolt on bone-heads.” We all have to start somewhere and I’m by no means a professional, but realizing there’s more to it then turning a bolt is very important. Point taken! Best of luck to you man!
Happend upon this video randomly glad to see people still out here rebuilding brake calipers. It's trial and error with the dust shield but once you have done a couple you can be in and out in like 20 min start to finish. $4.99-$12.99 vs $100-$300 well worth the little bit of effort to fix it. Me I rebuilt the whole thing. Replace the slide pin boots and bleeder valve as well. Literally cost me a total of $10-$20 per caliper and thats all they do in china with your core you give back then ship it back out to be sold as a remanufactured caliper.
Exactly right! So so much cheaper to do it this way and if you’ve got experience, you’re gonna be able to knock this out pretty quickly with little frustration. Most people are doing this for the first time, but hopefully after they completed once they’ll be able to do it again and again in the future and save a good amount of money. Great work and thanks for the comment!
Just did my 1st caliper rebuild thanks to your video it was very helpful.
Great to hear! Thanks for commenting 👍
PLEASE don't crimp a rubber brake line. You can collapse the inner lining and then when you apply your brakes, the fluid travels down the brake line to the caliper as it should. However when you release the pedal, because the hose is internally collapsed it acts as a 1 way check valve, the fluid cannot return back through the hose, therefore the caliper remains seized. Another method to keep all the fluid from dripping from the brake hose when you remove it, is to press the brake pedal in about 1/2in with an extendable rod, or I've even used a brick. This means the brake lights will stay on, so you may want to disconnect the battery. (Remember your radio code) No more than 1/2in tho, that way the piston inside the master cylinder is moved from its resting state and mostly covers the holes leading down to the brake lines, therefore drastically slowing the drip of the fluid.
Great vid, just wanted to pass that info forward.
That is an excellent tip. Hadn’t thought of that one. Figured the crimp method wasn’t ideal, but didn’t know of a work around either. Thanks for this it’s greatly appreciated.
Interesting. I've seen a lot of pro mechanics do it and no warnings like this.
I heard the same thing about internal collapse. Not sure if it's true but I don't take any chances.
is there a better way?
@@djfukno4770 I stick a compressible foam ear plug into the end of soft lines and so far it hasn't done me dirty.
Watched this in a rush after accidentally shooting out the last piston on my front Brembos while pushing all the others in. Definitely, definitely came in handy!!
Glad to hear that! Thanks for the comment 👍👍👍
Mine is doing that too on my 06 Civic. Thanks for the video!
You bet! I appreciate the comment 👍
Im rebuilding a1990 Honda Prelude 4WS and everything under the hood and wheel wells is basically BLACK with thick grime. Good thing about being covered in 30 years of grime is once its cleaned off, you can see all the original metal treatments and coatings. I always thought the calipers were a grey color(online rebuilt calipers for sale are a dull grey due to being soaked in acid bath to remove said black grime but also removes any metal protection treatment) but in reality, they're a golden zinc color. I spent days gently cleaning and soaking in simple green. Lightly scrubbing with a brass wire brush. Lo and behold, the once velvet black calipers are now a greenish gold zinc color! I keep imaging how they looked new, contrasting off the silver rotors. I don't know if i should paint them with a high temp rotor paint tho just for future weather and temp proofing because, even tho the zinc coating looks great, i don't think it will hold up much longer and some areas have been scrubbed off almost completely. But man they look awesome tho! 30yo calipers that most ppl just toss out or replace for the dull grey "rebuilt" calipers(basically same exact calipers just acid bathed and rebuilt). Shoot i might just buy the online ones, paint them and save the zinc ones for posterity lol
Wow, I love this comment! I’m also a fan of the zinc color and if pressed, would keep it zinc for as long as possible. But you said it yourself, already worn off in areas and will soon giveaway to rust. I like the idea of keeping them around for posterity. Nice garage decoration 👍
Never have done this before but saw your video made me feel real good about the project that I'm about to have to do just wanted to say thanks
You’re very welcome! I hope it goes well for you. Videos generally make projects appear easier than they are, however with patience and a little know-how this is a very doable job. 👍 Best of luck to you!
You just saved me a lot of money! Thank you!
Hello. Great to hear that! I appreciate the comment 👍
EXCELLENT VIDEO! Great camera work and outstanding method thank you so much!!
You're very welcome!
Just don't crimp off the hose like this guy did. FAIL!
Good video, I have a electric parking brake on the Acura with a ripped boot, gonna have to find out how that comes apart pretty soon.
Hello. BE advised that There is probably safe mode to operate on your rear brakes. I have an electric parking brake on my truck and I have to go through a few programming steps to enable “brake safety mode.” Fear is engaging the electronic brake on accident and losing a finger or two. Best of luck!
Nice job thanks for the video!
No problem! Thanks for the comment.
You just made my day! Thank you 👍
Glad to hear that!
An alternative way to get the boot back onto the piston is to seat the boot in its groove in the caliper, then slide the piston into the boot most of the way. Put a piece of 2 x 4 in front of the piston. Apply air from the back of the caliper and it should push the boot forward into its groove on the piston.
Oh nice, that’s a good tip! Much appreciated. Will try that next time if I have to do this again. Thanks 👍
Thanks brother
Just knocked it out doing this method took 30 seconds thanks for the tip
Kings in the house hail to the King cheers awesome video mechanic and you taught me something
Glad to help! Appreciate the comment 👍
I’m glad I watched it all before I commented bc I seen the Zerk fitting in and wondered if that was right.
Yes sir!
You just taught me somethin I will always know how to do now man subscribing hope you do well and thank you
You bet! And you’re welcome. Thanks!
Had mine apart with new seals to put in and could figure out how to get seal and piston in . .big thanks mate from Ausieland
You’re welcome my Australian friend! Happy to see this video crossing oceans 🌏🇦🇺 and I’ll throw a roo in for good measure 🦘. Cheers!
Nice vid, good luck
Thanks 👍
Very informative
Glad it was helpful!
nice work
Thanks! Appreciate you taking the time to comment 👍👍👍
Thank you sir!
You’re welcome!
Thanks for sharing
You bet! Thanks for leaving a comment 👍👍👍
Thank you sir... Seriously.
You’re welcome! 👍
Thank you.
U can remove caliper but leave attached to car. Pess break peddle with pads removed. It should just pop out. Then gently clamp hose and undo banjo bolt.
☝️exactly
UERY HELPFULL VIDEO
Glad this helped! Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks
You’re welcome!
What is missing in the video is pre-fitting of the piston, what it looks like and its tolerance like when it fit into the bore. Thanks!
I didn’t do any measuring as I researched the part and knew it was correct for this caliper. To be safe, I suppose I should have, but it worked so I assume was gtg. Thanks for the comment 👍
I think I have a similar sound, on the pedal release tho, if I remember correctly. After discovering both front discs were scorching hot last week, I deattched the calipers from the discs and tested them by pressing and pumping them today. Front left seemed a bit harder to press in. Then, pumping the brakes to push both pistons out simmultaneously, the front left traveled less distance compared to the front right. Also, part of the dust boot on the front left is not stretching out evenly around the piston. So, I'll be doing the seal rebuild this week. Anyone thinking this is the reason for the brake/caliper drag on both discs? OT, I've learned that air in brake lines/master cylinder can cause a sinking pedal, but can it cause brake drags? @Fast Fix, did you replace the piston too? Did the rebuild eliminate the noise? Also, did you have any brake drag?
Hello. Yes, I replaced the piston and the seals. I didn’t have any brake drag...not sure what can cause that, but master cylinder malfunctions and sticking cylinders seem like likely causes. Best of luck!
I here same noise on front brakes release like a bad door open
I had replaced the brake pads on my vehicle before but this time I wanted to remove the calipers clean them up and I couldn't figure out how to get the piston out. They were roofing a house across the street and I asked him if I could use a little air no problem I didn't know if it would work or not but what I was doing wasn't working an the compressed air shot that piston out of there like a bullet anyhow nobody got hit thank goodness. The reason I did it previously was because one of the seals had been pulled out and there was all kinds of dirt in there and that's why that particular caliper was getting stuck closed. No damage to the seal they were fines I'm re-overhauling them again right now.
Sounds like a close call! Had a guy comment here who said he broke his thumb doing this! Ouch…
Muchas gracias señorón Dios lo bendiga feliz noches me llamo Mynor soy de Guatmala
Gracias por ver mis videos, que bueno que te ayudo!
Crimping the brake line is like bending a phone cord in one spot over and over and then expecting the inside to be fine and charge your phone. The pressure from clamping even once a brake line that’s starting to deteriorate inside can break the inside of the hose structure enough to cause the pressure to not flow right and your new caliper to cease from a lack of brake line pressure..
Yes, I agree with you. Wasn’t optimal…
For removing the boots and seals what works really well is a dab tool. Very good for making sure you dont damage them.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing that 👍👍
I'm almost convinced you set the dust cover the other way around.
Hmm….well it’s worked ever since the repair, so if I did, ahh well.
My technique when installing the piston and boot is to place a towel on my lap, place the caliper with the opening facing out ,then use both hands to guide the piston in. Your tummy acts like a back brace.
Another great tip! Yes, do what works for you and that sounds like a good idea for all 👍👍👍
I have a ripped boot on my caliper and might try a rebuild if possible to save some money. I dont have compressed air to push the piston out. Are there any other ways to get it out?
Hello. Yes, there are. You can always remove the pads and the caliper, depress the brake and get it out that way. You’ll spill fluid all over, however. Best of luck!
That’s exactly what mine sounded like. Thought my interior was the problem initially. Did a brake job recently
Hello. Yeah, likely the cylinder. Those boots do wear out. Best of luck and thanks for the comment 👍
I’ve heard it is bad to put anything but brake fluid in the caliper or on the piston. but you used carb cleaner? just wasn’t sure thanks
Good question. I’d say it’s not detrimental if you’re only using the carb cleaner for a limited time and making sure to wipe the surface dry right away. The cleaners are pretty harsh, but as long as you’re careful and don’t leave parts saturated, you should be okay. Thanks for the question.
Just did a 2011 lexus is250 front caliper rebuild both sides. Then did a1995 honda odyssey with 300,00miles this one I also replaced the pistons . Much cheaper than the other alternative.
Absolutely! A rebuilt caliper for this car was $60. The piston and seals were under $15. Rebuild all the way. Thanks for the comment!
I have a small tear on the outside of my outer seal of one of my calipers. I'm not seeing any brake fluid come out of the caliper. Will that be a problem as far as brake caliper function or is it the inner seal which creates the seal, and the outer is just prevents dirt/dust from getting into the piston area?
Hello. Good question. The inner seal does keep the fluid in. The outer seal protects the cylinder from dirt, debris and brake dust. So, the caliper will function normally until too much debris gets in and starts to cause problems. They can last for quite some time with a torn outer seal, so my usual advice is to replace it when it starts to make noise. Hope this helps.
Once the outer seal is torn. Dirt and water will get inside and rust up the caliper around the inner seal. This will corrode and pit the piston which will then seize up. You can get seal and piston kits to refurbish calipers.
Piston will rust if the outer seal is damaged. Rust will stop the inner seal from working properly and piston wont retract
The replies here are correct: corrosion and seizure WILL happen. I reckon ALL the many calipers I've fixed or replaced, failed because either the piston outer seal was split or because the handbrake shaft was split - both causing corrosion then seizure. The repair kits with the seals are very cheap (~£6) and easy to fit.
How much time did it take you per caliber to eject’0 piston, clean re-install piston. 10-15 minutes per caliber?
It’s hard to say because I was filming everything. I’d say this is easy a several hour project.
Did you replace the caliper piston or did you just polish it up? Looks new
Hello. I replaced the piston, although I could’ve probably reused the old one. Thanks for the question 👍
Hi, is it possible to replace only the dust boot without removing piston?
Unfortunately, no it’s not.
ya bout to save me some money thanks lol
Haha, you bet!
You put a board between the driver seat and brake pedal and move the seat forward to where the brake pedal is pressed like 1/2" forward and then stop. Then disconnect the battery and you shouldn't get brake fluid leak.
Great idea! 👍👍👍
The job is a bit more tricky than 1.5 rating. Anyone trying this need to know you may damge other components trying to fix this. I would rate this 2.5 out of 5. 😊
Hello. Yes, that’s fair. It’s much easier to just buy a remanufactured caliper, but the cost savings from doing a rebuild is a valid point. 👍
I have a question: i have a 98 camry and today was doing my brakes and having taken the brake pads off, i accidently pressed my brakes too much and had one of the caliper came out too much. it's not going in no metter how much i try. one friend said the caliper is out of the housing and i need a new one. is there a way to get it in? or do i just need to buy a new one?
Hello. I assume you mean ‘piston’ when you say the ‘caliper’ came out. It should go back in. I bet the metal retainer ring is keeping it from seating back in the cylinder. So, remove the rubber boot and inspect the cylinder. If the retainer ring is still installed, remove it. The piston should go back in when you make sure nothing is blocking it. Hope this helps. Best of luck 👍
@@FastFixUA-cam can you make a vid on this
I got the same problem
I have the same car, with the same brake problem!
Honda sold a lot of civics! Best of luck man 👍
Brilliant.My mechanic say you can,t remove pistons on modern cars.
I’m unsure if that’s true, but it seems like it’s not true 🤷♂️
😂
isnt there a retaining clip for the caliper boot?
Hello! Yes, I forgot to film that part. The retaining ring/clip is installed last to retain the boot as you mentioned. There’s a machined groove that’s unmistakeable and where the ring fits into. 👍
Does the seal have to cover the whole piston? I can’t seem to keep the seal over the rear of the piston when I’m pushing it in
Hello. I’m not sure I’m understanding your question completely, but yes the seal should slide down the entire piston. It won’t cover the piston, just fits into the lip of the caliper. Hope that helps.
If you don't have an air compressor, can you use a slide hammer to pull the piston out?
Put a small wooden block, about 1.25in in the caliper and depress the brake pedal about 5-10 times til it is pushed out .
What he said!👆
when do u put the metal ring back? Any detail appreciated
Yes, sorry about that. Put it in at the very end. You’ll see the area where it’s supposed to go. There’s a groove machined into the cylinder near the top. It helps keep the boot in place. You just need to compress it slightly and place it in…not much to it. I hope this helps. Feel free to update the thread if you have issues. Thanks.
@@FastFixUA-cam Ty
I would suggest cleaning the caliper housing before rebuilding , chemical and wire wheel. All it would take is some rust to destroy that new assembly
Good tip 👍
any other ways with a air pump.. is hand pump possible ?
You could try, but guessing a hand pump will be difficult. You can disconnect the caliper and push the brakes to remove them, but it will be messy. Thanks for the question and best of luck.
How do you pop the piston out if you don’t have a air machine like the one you used ?
Hello. Can leave connected to brake line and apply brakes to get it out. Will be messy though.
@@FastFixUA-cam oh i see . thank you.
Will this fix a leak coming from the caliper?
Hello. If the leak is coming from the piston area of the caliper, then yes. Otherwise, you likely have a leak coming from the brake line or the bleed valve.
How do you get the piston out if you don’t have compressed air?
You could keep it attached to the brake line, remove the caliper from the disc, and depress the brake. Will be messy, but a way.
Gonna try to rebuild mine from a 80 lotus esprit, Hope it works.
Best of luck!
If it fails after crimping the line ….. you need new ones anyway ! Replace them all
Yes, I can’t argue with that. Much easier, but more expensive. 👍
You need to use a tea light candle under it and fill the little pot up with corn
🤣🤣🤣🤣
can you just use brake fluid from the car pedal to pucjh it
Correct! Just a little messy, but you gotta do what ya gotta do 👍
I didn't put it in service mode. THEN stupidly applied service mode then un-did service mode...leaving my rear caliper piston pushed completely out, and wont go back in. My rear brakes are was already out when i applied the eBrakes.
So I can't push it in cause I now know I need to be IN service mode. WHAT DO I DO??
2017 Jeep cherokee limited awd 4x4 4cy rear brake
Hello. If I’m understanding your situation, the Ebrakes were engaged after you had already removed the piston? Now, the piston won’t go back in?
If this is the case, can you see anything in the cylinder that’s prohibiting the piston from being installed? Does the piston go back in at all or can you not even get it started?
How can you get the piston out if you dont have and air hose?
Hello. If you don’t have access to air tools, you could leave the brake system connected, remove the pads and depress the brake peddle. This will be a messy process, however. If you don’t want to go that route, check Amazon for brake piston removal pliers. I’ve never used them, but assume they get the job done. Thanks for the question 👍
should have show us how you put back the metal ring the right way
Hello. Yes, that piece of footage was regrettably left out. However, it is the last thing to install simply slip it over the boot into the groove. You can’t miss it. I hope everything works out! Thanks for commenting and have a great day.
Is it the same way with Camry 2000,4cyl??thx
Yes, more or less should be the same
I use a plastic fork to get the old oring out so it can't scratch the bore.
Wise move!
That piston appears new. You didn't say if you replaced the piston or if you cleaned up the piston that you pulled out.
Hello. It was replaced.
Why diid you losen the caliper bracket bolts? You dont need to remove the bracket to remove the caliper do you?
Hello. To be honest, I do not remember. I’m sure there was a reason why I did that, but I suppose it’s also possible that I left in some footage that I shouldn’t have. Simply evaluate the situation when you go to do the repair and the answer should be self evident. Thanks for the question and have a good one!
Should have used the brake pedal to push the piston out. Much more controllable and will work every time. Compressed air will fail to get EVERY stuck piston out.
True enough, just messy that way. 👍
No more messy than air blowing brake fluid out. Just have a rag and a pan handy. The fluid drops straight down from the caliper.
What do you have at the end of your air hose
It’s just an air gun, air blasting gun…called different things. 👍
Where does the metal ring go? On top of the rubber boot?
Hello. The metal ring secures the rubber boot to the caliper. Notice a groove machined into the cylinder near the outside. The boot goes in, then the ring goes in to secure the boot. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question and best of luck to you.
Were did you find parts ?
Hello. I got these from carparts.com. Sorry, I don’t have any links or part numbers. Thanks for the question.
I noticed I had a tear in my piston dust boot, can I just pump the brake pedal to pop out the piston from the caliper? I don't have an air compressor.
Hello. Yes, you can do that, but brake fluid will be all over the place. if you go that route, have many towels or rags down to catch the fluid.
For the people that dont have compressed air whats the other method of removing the piston?
Hello. There have been some useful suggestions for people that don’t have air compressors so search the comments a little bit and hopefully you will find something useful. The only thing I’m aware of is leaving the caliper mounted after removing the brake disk. If you depress the brakes, the pistons will pop out of there, but so will all of the brake fluid so it’s pretty messy. I hope you figure something out! Thanks for commenting. Have a good one!
I saw that he didn’t put a littler bit of grease on the piston in the back it would have gone in more easily
Good tip 👍
Man, you should to paint it. Its a sin to take off the caliper and to not paint it. But thanks for the video any way, very useful 👍
Glad it helped!
That soft line is completely ruined now. There is stell reinforcements in that rubber line. You collapsed it by vice gripping it. Not hating just dont that next time. Just point it up so I doesnt leak. Again not hating just a tech tip. :)
Yeah, you’re 100% right. I appreciate the feedback and the suggestion 👍
Should definetly of wire wheeled and painted the caliper whilst it was off but cheers for the vid 👍🏻
Yeah, but then I’d have to paint the other three 🤣
@@FastFixUA-cam hahaha, im currently doing all the underneath rear of one of my cars, all undersealed now, calipers are getting rebuilt and painted and fitting braided brake lines
@@FastFixUA-cam oh and having stainless steel pistons made up for the calipers
I dont have air compresssor ,what shall I do
Hello. There are ways! A few good ideas in the comment section that I don’t remember off hand, but if push comes to shove, you can always use the brakes to pop them out. It will be messy!
How do you put that seal ring back in?
Not exactly sure where to put that metal ring at.
Hello. The metal ring holds the rubber dust shield in place. It will be the last thing you install. It fits in the groove machined near the lip of the cylinder. I know that didn’t get shown in the video. Sorry about that.
Done this several times... Dont buy it people. That seal will fight you til death. Hours of panicky pressing, having it hopping of the ledge where you dont press. Finally having you condcider screw drivers or such tools ending up with you puncturing your new seal and throwing it all in the wall. If that was your daily drivers caliper and the car on jack stands. Well, hope that you have an alternate car to use.
Hello. Yes, you’re absolutely right with the things that could happen when completing this repair. That’s why I believe it to be an individual choice on how much you could possibly save if things go right versus how much new caliper would be. Getting the remanufactured calipers definitely the easier option and honestly something I would probably do most of the time unless there was a significant amount of money I could save by repairing it myself. Otherwise it’s like they say keep a simple stupid. Thanks for commenting and have a good one!
You should remake this video to show how to do all the stuff you explained with text.
Unfortunately that’s no longer possible and in my early days of video production. Not the best!
Anyone else accidentally pressed the brakes with one of the pistons exposed? Hahaha...
Lol, whoops!
looks like the same kit and caliper set up from a Cobalt or HHR.
They could be the same.
If you are not sure which way the boot should go on look at the old one to see if there are any markings such as manufacturer or even a part number scribed on the boot. With genuine Toyota boots ,the markings face out. I will be doing this job soon using genuine honda and will report back
Excellent advise! A good reason to use Toyota boots! Hope all goes well for ya!
what size compressor did you use to push the piston out?
Compressor size doesn’t matter. It’s an 8 gallon compression.
@@FastFixUA-cam thanks ~ so I can buy a small 6 psi compressor with a 110 psi , hopefully that works.
What about the slider pins .
As the calipe moves in and out it slides on the retainer bolts.
These become just as corroded as the piston.
Yes, good point. Those are worth changing / cleaning if part of the problem.
That can make caliper stick too. That's why they call em slides!😉
What happen if the seal has tear?
Hello. Dirt and road grime will work its way into the cylinder and eventually cause a failure. Or at minimum cause your breaks to make a lot of noise and not function as well. Thanks for the question.
Everything worked but even with a c clamp And compression tool, it will not go all the way in. What am I doing wrong?
How far did you get it in? Make sure you removed the bolt that holds the brake line on. I made that mistake and couldn’t understand why the piston would not seat completely. Let me know how it goes.
@@FastFixUA-cam I did. I actually have the entire caliper off the car and cannot get it back in after setting it and using a c-clamp. I dnt wanna use a hammer but can I?
@@AngryAnR hello. Definitely don’t use a hammer. Something is wrong if you’re reaching for the hammer. I’ve been there, then regretted it. Ha. There must be something binding up the piston. Have you removed it then checked for obstructions? Look at the cylinder walls and make sure they’re smooth. If you see a gouge or something similar that probably means the piston didn’t go in square and roughed up the walls. Also, measure the piston and make sure it’s the right size. Could be that it’s too long and bottoming out. I wish I could see what’s happening and offer an precise solution, but unfortunately we can’t accomplish that through comment threads. If you can’t get it to seat you might have to bite the bullet and get a remanufactured one from the store. I’ve had to do that in the past and assume I’ll need to do it again at some point. Sometimes, it’s just necessary to quit and go for something you know will work. Sucks, but it happens. Best of luck and feel free to update this thread.
@@FastFixUA-cam everything is ok. i dont get it at all. i had to break down and go get a replacement tho. i could not figure it out for the life of me. i even took it to a shop and they couldnt see why it wouldnt go in. just one of those things i guess. i truly appreciate all the feedback. until the next fix.......take care
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How about condition of the piston
Hello. It had corrosion and wear due to the broken seal.
@@FastFixUA-cam I'm doing the same thing
For those wondering, a 20 dollar walmart pump will indeed pop the piston out xD just but that bad boy against the bleeder hole and boom.
Name of The pump ?
@@rayonwilliamssportsandfun2106 i used the hypertough emergency inflator. i was shocked honestly. took about three seconds. best trick ever\
Nice! I wasn’t aware of that, so great info 👍
I did it with a screw driver lol
2014 Lexus is250f