Yeah. I was being a little cheeky. I was more thinking of the “when HM7000 doesn’t work scenarios”. As you’ve probably seen I’m still dealing with these
Cracking video. I'll have to sort my A4 bogie out before running in anger on curves / points. and conrod spanner will be included next time I order anything from Hornby (unless I forget again!)
Excellent video Peachy. I know the various issues and fixes have been discussed in the Hornby forums over multiple hard to find threads threads but never have I seen it illustrated this way. I think I'll be referring back to this from time to time!
Glad you found my fix for the gauging useful, just an addition, the target setting should be closer to 10.5mm on Peco track to avoid micro shorting and decoder cut out.
@@PeachyTT120 NMRA/NEM standards Target gauge for TT:120 at 10.5 mm but the ‘acceptable tolerance’ is 10.2 mm. I couldn’t find a specific B2B gauge and looking through my tool box the set of pliers I had would set them to 10.45 and that has cured all the issues on derailments and micro shorting that causes the decoder dropout. The decoders are very sensitive to any fluctuation in power, hopefully it’s a software tweak and that can be done OTA. I found the tanker wagons were also under gauge, so worth checking all the stock 👍
Cheers Derek, but I’m hoping I won’t have to! Fingers crossed that the diesels/HST are hopefully less problematic with them not having free floating bogies
Thanks Peachy, one of the best 'How to Fix it' videos I've seen on the subject of TT120 A4s and A3s. Very well illustrated and narrated. Off to have a cup of tea and ungrind my motor now 😂. Thanks, great video.
Unfortunately yes Chris. Nothing appears to be fouling/snagging, haven’t fitted the additional pipework etc. magnets a no go then, may try a weight at the front of the body to see if that helps at the weekend. Else we are going to tear up the track and try just an oval direct on a flat surface to see if it’s our first timers trackwork which is the issue 🤨🤪
Hi, Had issues with Trigo derailing at front bogie. Checked as per you video only to find they had fitted wrong arm that attaches bogie to chassis. Unreal, fitted right one off Night Hawk and issue resolved. Back together, photos and off it goes to dealer.
Hi Chris. Very useful video. Yes, you can use short-nosed pliers to set the back-to-back gauge, but DCCconcepts sell one in brass for less than a fiver (at least when I bought mine).
Yes I’ve seen them. But I’d heard they were set at 10.3mm? Which isn’t quite enough apparently…(so I’ve been told) personally I prefer using the digital verniers although you need to be careful not to pull or push the wheels out of parallel
@@PaulSmith-pl7fo Ah, yes, should have been more explicit! DV - Deo Volente - God willing. ie, cant assume tomorrow, so in this context the hoped for purchase of other locos is not something completely my control but subject to God’s overarching will. Thanks for asking!
Fantastic video👍 very shocked to see the bearings not in their home positions! 😮. Have you allready checked your A4's? That grinding noise with the motors.... i wonder if clamping the motor with a touch of foam would help too? I can only imagine the grind noise was actually a micro vibration noise as the motor didnt sit properly from assembly as you showed🤷. Great video mate 👍
In that particular Mallard, they had been fitted correctly, they'd just popped out because of me removing the bottom plate. Although I have had a Blink Bonny with this issue out of the box which is why I wanted to show it.
@@PeachyTT120 cheers for the fast reply. Nothing on the box or online for the Scotsman set 🙄 Will email CS and Technical as Bonney keeps detailing on RH points when tender first 🤔😩
@@SpoolUpFan that sounds like possibly the spacing of one or more of the tender wheels is maybe too close. They don’t like the points when they aren’t spaced wide enough.
I can’t be absolutely certain, but I assume it’s just part of production protocol to possibly show the bearings are in the correct place? Either that or the moulding on those early toolings shrank just a tiny bit more or less than expected and it’s some kind of shim/packing? Short answer; I don’t know 🤷🏻♂️
@PeachyTT120 thanks Chris, My blink bonnie seems to be labouring recently on the bends, the wheels are slipping as if its struggling to get round. my william whitelaw goes straight round no problem pulling the same amount of coaches 🤷♂️
In defense of new people in the hobby, the answer may be in the forum, but sometimes (not always, but sometimes), it can be really hard as a newbie to search simply because you don't know what to search for. You are new, how could you know? 🙂
I don’t think I’m that new, but when I was (new to the forum) I asked questions and the nice people there answered. They were really friendly and helpful people.
I guarantee you that the black tape is there for a reason. I think the reason is to prevent a short circuit from the wheels hitting the chassis. A better fix would probably be to make sure the tape sits well - or replace it with a stronger piece of tape that can hold.
Yes I agree that this was initially considered to be the reason the manufacturer had placed it there. But the tape has been discussed quite openly by Simon K & I believe others from Hornby and they have said it’s not required. You will find many cases on the internet where people have removed it with no effect other than for it to resolve their derailing problem. I’ve not found one comment where it’s caused a short. It was apparently never a designed solution by Hornby or anything that they’d requested.
Thanks once more. Clear and concise as ever with no condescending tone. Perhaps you should do HM7000 next 😂
Thanks Damian, if you look at my “How to” playlist there is one called “Easy peasy HM7000”
Yeah. I was being a little cheeky. I was more thinking of the “when HM7000 doesn’t work scenarios”. As you’ve probably seen I’m still dealing with these
@@damianinCanadaTT-OO ah… yes I see. I’ll give it some thought.
Cracking video. I'll have to sort my A4 bogie out before running in anger on curves / points. and conrod spanner will be included next time I order anything from Hornby (unless I forget again!)
Thanks Justin.
When you go to buy the conrod spanner, don’t forget there’s an affiliate link in the “more” description tab. 😉
Excellent video Peachy. I know the various issues and fixes have been discussed in the Hornby forums over multiple hard to find threads threads but never have I seen it illustrated this way. I think I'll be referring back to this from time to time!
Excellent Peter. That’s exactly what I’d hoped people would take from this. Thank you.
Glad you found my fix for the gauging useful, just an addition, the target setting should be closer to 10.5mm on Peco track to avoid micro shorting and decoder cut out.
Ah… not sure where I got 10.45 from?
On the subject of micro shorting, I do hope Hornby come up with a fix for this via the decoders at some point.
@@PeachyTT120 NMRA/NEM standards Target gauge for TT:120 at 10.5 mm but the ‘acceptable tolerance’ is 10.2 mm. I couldn’t find a specific B2B gauge and looking through my tool box the set of pliers I had would set them to 10.45 and that has cured all the issues on derailments and micro shorting that causes the decoder dropout. The decoders are very sensitive to any fluctuation in power, hopefully it’s a software tweak and that can be done OTA. I found the tanker wagons were also under gauge, so worth checking all the stock 👍
@@HighFell excellent advice regarding the tankers as they are a cracking little model & I’d love to have a proper full train of them
Great informative video. You will have to do a follow-up edition when the diesels get here!
Cheers Derek, but I’m hoping I won’t have to! Fingers crossed that the diesels/HST are hopefully less problematic with them not having free floating bogies
Thanks Peachy, one of the best 'How to Fix it' videos I've seen on the subject of TT120 A4s and A3s. Very well illustrated and narrated. Off to have a cup of tea and ungrind my motor now 😂. Thanks, great video.
Cheers Ken… fingers crossed it’s as easy a fix for you as it was for me.
Unfortunately yes Chris. Nothing appears to be fouling/snagging, haven’t fitted the additional pipework etc. magnets a no go then, may try a weight at the front of the body to see if that helps at the weekend. Else we are going to tear up the track and try just an oval direct on a flat surface to see if it’s our first timers trackwork which is the issue 🤨🤪
Hi, Had issues with Trigo derailing at front bogie. Checked as per you video only to find they had fitted wrong arm that attaches bogie to chassis. Unreal, fitted right one off Night Hawk and issue resolved. Back together, photos and off it goes to dealer.
Wrong arm? Blimey!
Hi Chris. Very useful video. Yes, you can use short-nosed pliers to set the back-to-back gauge, but DCCconcepts sell one in brass for less than a fiver (at least when I bought mine).
Yes I’ve seen them. But I’d heard they were set at 10.3mm? Which isn’t quite enough apparently…(so I’ve been told) personally I prefer using the digital verniers although you need to be careful not to pull or push the wheels out of parallel
@@PeachyTT120 Good to know.
@@PaulSmith-pl7fo are you able to check what size they are? (The DCC brass ones)
@@PeachyTT120 Their website says 10.24mm - ouch!
@@PaulSmith-pl7fo oops
Morning Chris. Useful video. Still only got the 08 so far, but mental note for the future, dv
Thanks Greg. Hopefully people don’t think I’m try to teach them how to suck eggs, but these simple issues do seem to be a recurring thing.
@@PeachyTT120I especially liked the grinding sound effects as provided by your good self!!
@@gregmacdonald927 🤣🤣
DV?
@@PaulSmith-pl7fo Ah, yes, should have been more explicit! DV - Deo Volente - God willing. ie, cant assume tomorrow, so in this context the hoped for purchase of other locos is not something completely my control but subject to God’s overarching will. Thanks for asking!
Outstanding… great informative video . One of your best
Thanks Mike. Really appreciate that.
Fantastic video👍 very shocked to see the bearings not in their home positions! 😮. Have you allready checked your A4's?
That grinding noise with the motors.... i wonder if clamping the motor with a touch of foam would help too? I can only imagine the grind noise was actually a micro vibration noise as the motor didnt sit properly from assembly as you showed🤷. Great video mate 👍
In that particular Mallard, they had been fitted correctly, they'd just popped out because of me removing the bottom plate. Although I have had a Blink Bonny with this issue out of the box which is why I wanted to show it.
Thanks so much… You show a booklet for maintenance but there weren’t any in our box… Is this a download or should it have been included?
All mine had the leaflet in the box. If yours is missing you should be able to download one from the Hornby website. Possibly under product support?
@@PeachyTT120 cheers for the fast reply. Nothing on the box or online for the Scotsman set 🙄 Will email CS and Technical as Bonney keeps detailing on RH points when tender first 🤔😩
@@SpoolUpFan have you checked under the brown moulded cardboard in the set box?
@@SpoolUpFan that sounds like possibly the spacing of one or more of the tender wheels is maybe too close. They don’t like the points when they aren’t spaced wide enough.
@@PeachyTT120 Good call but just triple checked 👎🏻
Hi Chris, question for you, what's the 1 little thin strip of yellow paper over the bearings? I have the same in mine
I can’t be absolutely certain, but I assume it’s just part of production protocol to possibly show the bearings are in the correct place? Either that or the moulding on those early toolings shrank just a tiny bit more or less than expected and it’s some kind of shim/packing?
Short answer; I don’t know 🤷🏻♂️
@PeachyTT120 thanks Chris, My blink bonnie seems to be labouring recently on the bends, the wheels are slipping as if its struggling to get round. my william whitelaw goes straight round no problem pulling the same amount of coaches 🤷♂️
Really good video. Its shocking how poorly thougtht out and manufactured these TT120 models are proving to be.
Hopefully the Hornby designers are learning what the limitations of their new manufacturing partners are.
In defense of new people in the hobby, the answer may be in the forum, but sometimes (not always, but sometimes), it can be really hard as a newbie to search simply because you don't know what to search for. You are new, how could you know? 🙂
I don’t think I’m that new, but when I was (new to the forum) I asked questions and the nice people there answered. They were really friendly and helpful people.
I guarantee you that the black tape is there for a reason. I think the reason is to prevent a short circuit from the wheels hitting the chassis. A better fix would probably be to make sure the tape sits well - or replace it with a stronger piece of tape that can hold.
Yes I agree that this was initially considered to be the reason the manufacturer had placed it there. But the tape has been discussed quite openly by Simon K & I believe others from Hornby and they have said it’s not required. You will find many cases on the internet where people have removed it with no effect other than for it to resolve their derailing problem.
I’ve not found one comment where it’s caused a short. It was apparently never a designed solution by Hornby or anything that they’d requested.
Perhaps the box should be marked ‘Some (re)assembly required…’
I couldn't possibly comment 😜