With cold gun blueing, you’re supposed to soak it in light oil immediately after the water rinse. WD40 works fine. Spray it on after the water rinse, then let it “cure” for 24 hrs. Then return to wipe off the oil. The blueing finish will last longer and no rust initially. Also for parts like those in the video, the hot-blueing used motor oil method works nicely, is cheaper and leaves an oil residue to help slow down rust.
Would citric acid be strong enough to remove the coating? I want to try burnishing with oil but there is still some stuff on it that seems to interfere. Maybe I need a stronger conc of citric acid
Hello and I am here to ask if it’s possible to “blue” zinc metal parts, would this be the same process as with zinc plated because I want to make some parts of a metal airsoft karabiner 98k black and the metal used for parts was zinc
Olá boa tarde No meu país é proibida a venda de ácido sulfurico, tenho outra alternativa para obter o mesmo efeito sem utilizar o acido sulfurico? Obrigado
I haven’t tried caustic soda, although when I just need to get rid of oil and scale sometimes I just use vinegar. It’s slow but it works. In this video I’m actually removing the zinc plating from the surface as well as any other coatings. The muriatic acid does this very well.
So you mix the perma blue with water? I tried bluing my 1911 the frame is zinc I made it corrode with white rust I got rid of the rust completely stripped it down to bare metal was thinking about electroplating but if I can just blue it with out it corroding I think would be better any tips
Would this work well in a restored car engine bay. Or would it yearly oiling to stop future rust . What other options would work well for my engine bay . Im painting some hardware and brackets black currently , but would much rather something easy like this method .
It would likely need to be oiled occasionally to prevent rust. If you did a clear coat over it it would last (I often use shellac) but I guess that doesn’t really save you time over just painting it. I use this method because I like the look better than paint. Just personal preference.
It’s safe for skin contact. I recommend sealing it with some type of clear coat or wax though. I like to use shellac. It gives it a nice satin look and keeps it from rusting.
The difference in weight will be practically nothing. The oxide finish is just the top layer of iron bonding with oxygen molecules in a specific configuration so you aren’t really adding a coating.
Interesting video. Thanks. I have a question. It is: how to get matte (rough) surface by doing electroplating (zinc plating or copper plating). I have an aluminium roller. I need to zinc or any other metal plating on it with rough (matte) surface. Please help me..Thanks
There seems to be a marching band drowning you out. Stressy. Seems like there's some good info in there. Too bad about the music. Edit: I figured out to just turn the volume off and use captions. Solves both the annoying marching band and how to understand what you are saying.
With cold gun blueing, you’re supposed to soak it in light oil immediately after the water rinse. WD40 works fine. Spray it on after the water rinse, then let it “cure” for 24 hrs. Then return to wipe off the oil. The blueing finish will last longer and no rust initially.
Also for parts like those in the video, the hot-blueing used motor oil method works nicely, is cheaper and leaves an oil residue to help slow down rust.
Would citric acid be strong enough to remove the coating? I want to try burnishing with oil but there is still some stuff on it that seems to interfere. Maybe I need a stronger conc of citric acid
Hello and I am here to ask if it’s possible to “blue” zinc metal parts, would this be the same process as with zinc plated because I want to make some parts of a metal airsoft karabiner 98k black and the metal used for parts was zinc
HI Will the black be wiped away?
Can use for aluminum untensils.
Olá boa tarde
No meu país é proibida a venda de ácido sulfurico, tenho outra alternativa para obter o mesmo efeito sem utilizar o acido sulfurico?
Obrigado
Why not use caustic soda, it will remove any grease and oil but will do no damage to steel at all?
I haven’t tried caustic soda, although when I just need to get rid of oil and scale sometimes I just use vinegar. It’s slow but it works. In this video I’m actually removing the zinc plating from the surface as well as any other coatings. The muriatic acid does this very well.
@@Chemical14 It works great but you need to be careful with aluminium, it makes them disappear.
So you mix the perma blue with water? I tried bluing my 1911 the frame is zinc I made it corrode with white rust I got rid of the rust completely stripped it down to bare metal was thinking about electroplating but if I can just blue it with out it corroding I think would be better any tips
I don’t mix it with water I usually just put it in a squirt bottle and spray down my parts. Then I rinse it with water once the reaction is done.
@@Chemical14 thank you for letting me know I appreciate it
Would this work well in a restored car engine bay. Or would it yearly oiling to stop future rust .
What other options would work well for my engine bay . Im painting some hardware and brackets black currently , but would much rather something easy like this method .
It would likely need to be oiled occasionally to prevent rust. If you did a clear coat over it it would last (I often use shellac) but I guess that doesn’t really save you time over just painting it. I use this method because I like the look better than paint. Just personal preference.
What type of oil do you use after the bluing and sanding?
I actually prefer wax. Either beeswax or shellac. But there are lots of things that can work
Will it hurt by skin contact? Because I want to use it as a table
It’s safe for skin contact. I recommend sealing it with some type of clear coat or wax though. I like to use shellac. It gives it a nice satin look and keeps it from rusting.
What will be the difference of weight of the part after and before coating?
The difference in weight will be practically nothing. The oxide finish is just the top layer of iron bonding with oxygen molecules in a specific configuration so you aren’t really adding a coating.
Interesting video. Thanks. I have a question. It is: how to get matte (rough) surface by doing electroplating (zinc plating or copper plating). I have an aluminium roller. I need to zinc or any other metal plating on it with rough (matte) surface. Please help me..Thanks
That was a good lesson i learned something today that will come in handy thanks buddy tell everyone hi for me
Thanks! I will
There seems to be a marching band drowning you out. Stressy. Seems like there's some good info in there. Too bad about the music. Edit: I figured out to just turn the volume off and use captions. Solves both the annoying marching band and how to understand what you are saying.
Stupid obnoxious music iiiii