Well that escalated quickly. Not sure about cutting the heater thing out might need that sometime. Definitely got to show the rebuild on the transmission.
@@rookie__pilot Harbor Freight sells cheap little electric heater/defroster units that sit on the dashboard. Pick one up and throw it in the trunk, just in case you need it. In Tucson, you might need the defogger once every 10 years or so.
Angel, if you use you engine hoist levelling bar in the same plane as the crankshaft, you can change the engine/gearbox angle as you offer it up. To keep the engine level left to right, balance out the number of chain links you use. 😊
I understand your enthusiasm for wanting to rebuild that transmission. That said, don't play guessing games. Those parts have to go in the right way or you're going to trash the transmission. I suggest you get the service manual for that transmission so you know how to rebuild it.
There is never "too far" on a custom build...unless you get caught robbing a bank to fund said custom build, then that could be considered a bit too far. 😊
Yes! I believe a foxbody oil pan is the one most commonly used for the mustang ii, but this pan being a rear sump actually worked better than i thought. Also my budget is slim so im trying to keep everything low cost haha
Awesome Angle, yeah do the rebuild on the gear box , find a manual for it , I'm doing the transmission on my Rav4 so getting new gaskets , o ringing's and friction plates, I just hope it go's back together well , it's my first time doing this myself, you're mustang will be great when it is done 👍🏽
Might trigger some 'purists' with the cutting. But the fact that this car was headed to the trash heap, makes it a prime example for what you're doing! The only way to learn, and expand, is to do! And you're doing just that.. Looks awesome. And I got legit anxiety just seeing the guts of that transmission all over your bench... haha!
Very cool Angel! That firewall will be easy to replace and should look nice and clean. I really like the vision you have for this car, it’s going to be lots of fun!
I agree manual transmissions are more exciting. Something about making perfect shifts. Hearing the engine rev being the analog driving profile. Want to be sporty or fuel saving all up to the shifts.
Ever since the suspension video I've been yelling "jump on it" like when you tack-welded the axle, put the rear-end in, and now bolting the transmission on :D
Hey Angel, the little brass thingies in the trans you were wondering about are called synchro rings. They help with gear engagement, especially on downshifts.
Hello Angel, great video. I like the way you explain what you are doing as you go, even your cut twice - think once method. As to 50F degrees, I would take that right now. Actually is is not too bad here at the moment at 33F - kind of balmy - LOL. Regards, Dave
I like your channel it’s relaxed and entertaining. The IFS is what Ford should have done. I’m dealing with the same shitty towers on my 66 here in Ontario. I love Arizona and its open spaces but mostly because of Route 66, I was in Kingman 4 weeks ago.
Finally subscribed. You are basically doing my exact project, except I am doing a different engine & trans. I already got my 8.8 diff narrowed. My 65 still has the old 6 and trans in, but I had to tow it. I am going to try to get it to run, then get all my items so I can enjoy it while I get everything ready. Thanks for the great videos!
@@rookie__pilot that is the controversial question. I was thinking 5.0 and t5. But the more I look at it I was thinking 5.3 LS and tranny will be auto til I figure out a good manual that fits
I also have a 70 Gs from high school, but that one has a rebuilt engine and tranny which I did back before college. Has like 8k on that motor. I know a ford with LS would piss people off, but it’s my project and I want some power and don’t want to spend 8 k to get it.
I had to cut the firewall and tunnel out of my 67 to squeeze a ls1 and t56 in the car. Im still running the stock suspension with shock towers. Had to make a log manifold for the passenger side and s 76 mm turbo due to no factory other than holley exhaust manifold would fit while running a borgeson steering box. I probably would have notched that crossmember for oil pan clearance. Im thinking of adding that style mustang 2 suspension in the future for a better turbo setup. Ill probably go with s CPP or hedits system. Good job on the fab work
Thanks for your helpful tips! Ls1 and t56 sounds like a great combo! Im very surprised they fit with the stock shock towers. Thanks for your support 👍🏻👍🏻
You should watch a few shows of Iron Resurrection, on the Motor Trend Channel. Those guys have done a few good examples of firewall cutting when bringing in engines that were not original to the car they work on.
My project different engine. I got lucky with a buy and got my hands on a 351w that I plan on stroking and supercharging for track days. Found you trying to see how the Mustang II front suspension kit from Helix would attach. I’m assuming since this is also a kit it’ll be roughly the same.
Hah I could hear the purists screaming all around the world, Angel. I like where it's going though. Couple things, first I think you should be able to make a heater work if you redesign the firewall patch with that in mind. You might not need the heater so much in AZ, but the windshield defog is definitely needed. Second, if you do decide to delete the heater, do put some ribbing in that sheetmetal patch panel (bead rolled or angle braced on the inside). If not that panel will drum like crazy.
Great point! I did not think of the defroster issue! Also i like the beading, i dont have a bead roller so maybe taking that patch to a machine shop. Also can you specify what you mean by angle braced?
@@rookie__pilot rather than beads in the panel, you could use sheetmetal angle spot welded to the back side of the patch. Keeps the clean look inside the engine bay, but won't allow the panel to drum. For bead rolling, find a place that does sheetmetal work like a commercial HVAC shop. Very few machine shops do sheetmetal fabrication IME (and I am a machinist/mechanic by trade).
@@rennkafer13 thank you very much!! This was one of my main concerns when cutting it, i knew drumming would be an issue but wasnt sure what way to go! This was great help!
@@rookie__pilot you're welcome, always happy to help. I've been building cars for quite a while (including a decade stint doing vintage race car restorations), so if you ever have a question, feel free to ask.
You forgot the engine plate between the engine and transmission, it’s going to push the transmission back about another 1/16th to 1/8 inch. Doesn’t sound like much but I’ve seen the exact thing cause issues before.
@@rookie__pilot I only mention it because I’ve made that mistake before building a race car and it sucks to be doing assembly and find out your mounts or something doesn’t line up. Great work so far. I’m following as I build my 65.
I'm curious, in order to add clearance between the oil pan and the rack and pinion, would another option have been to swap the oil pan out for a 5.0 Mustang's oil pan? I feel like the Mustang had a shallower pan. I'm a complete novice at modifying cars though so apologies if that's a dumb idea lol.
Not a dumb idea at all! The foxbody pans are a very popular oil pan to use with the mustang ii kits. As they have a recess in the middle. This is a mountaineer oil pan, it being rear sump made it even better for the relocation, im totally not sure if the foxbody one would allow for more clearance, but i also didnt want to buy another pan lol
@@rookie__pilot Ahh gotcha, Thanks for the reply, I hope to do something similar with a 69' Mustang so I really appreciate how you talk through multiple options and why you chose the one you did.
The rack an pinon was only $130 i believe, BUT this rack only works if you have a mustang ii set up like weve installed. There are some rack and piñons available for stock set ups aswell!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Sometimes flying by the seat of your pants beats too much thinking!
Absolutely right!
Well that escalated quickly. Not sure about cutting the heater thing out might need that sometime. Definitely got to show the rebuild on the transmission.
Yea, i maybe need a defroster but well make something work!
@@rookie__pilot Harbor Freight sells cheap little electric heater/defroster units that sit on the dashboard. Pick one up and throw it in the trunk, just in case you need it. In Tucson, you might need the defogger once every 10 years or so.
No worries. I removed my A/C and heater core from my 68 Camaro. Engine bay looks clean now.
You`re in deep now.
Cant look back now😂
Angel, if you use you engine hoist levelling bar in the same plane as the crankshaft, you can change the engine/gearbox angle as you offer it up. To keep the engine level left to right, balance out the number of chain links you use. 😊
Thank you! Lol i struggled quite a bit😂
I understand your enthusiasm for wanting to rebuild that transmission. That said, don't play guessing games. Those parts have to go in the right way or you're going to trash the transmission. I suggest you get the service manual for that transmission so you know how to rebuild it.
A sweet ride when it's finished.
Hopefully so!
There is never "too far" on a custom build...unless you get caught robbing a bank to fund said custom build, then that could be considered a bit too far. 😊
LOL. Cant say i havent thought of it 😂
As long as you're having that's all that counts. And maybe look into a different oil pan.
Yes! I believe a foxbody oil pan is the one most commonly used for the mustang ii, but this pan being a rear sump actually worked better than i thought. Also my budget is slim so im trying to keep everything low cost haha
I think it’s going to be a handling machine!
Hopefully!
That was fun, it'll be cool to see how much that new engine location improves the car. :)
Thanks Andy! Lovin the new racing apron on your stang. I have one aswell but quite a bit away from that step.
Definitely a transmission rebuild video 😎🙂
🤘🏼😎
Awesome Angle, yeah do the rebuild on the gear box , find a manual for it , I'm doing the transmission on my Rav4 so getting new gaskets , o ringing's and friction plates, I just hope it go's back together well , it's my first time doing this myself, you're mustang will be great when it is done 👍🏽
Yes for the transmission rebuild video!
Might trigger some 'purists' with the cutting. But the fact that this car was headed to the trash heap, makes it a prime example for what you're doing! The only way to learn, and expand, is to do! And you're doing just that..
Looks awesome. And I got legit anxiety just seeing the guts of that transmission all over your bench... haha!
Thanks Katmann, i got the same feeling looking at all those pieces ! 😂
no compromises - thanks for sharing - take your time to get the car to exactly your liking
Very cool Angel! That firewall will be easy to replace and should look nice and clean. I really like the vision you have for this car, it’s going to be lots of fun!
Thanks!
I agree manual transmissions are more exciting. Something about making perfect shifts. Hearing the engine rev being the analog driving profile. Want to be sporty or fuel saving all up to the shifts.
Perfect description!
Its CUSTOME...I think you'll be fine..keep goin' Angel...👍😎
😎🤘🏼
Hey been watching your subs rise from 8.77 to 8.92 over watching a lot of your older vids. Loving the content. Thanks for sharing
Ever since the suspension video I've been yelling "jump on it" like when you tack-welded the axle, put the rear-end in, and now bolting the transmission on :D
Everything i weld has to be jump tested lol😂
Hey Angel, the little brass thingies in the trans you were wondering about are called synchro rings. They help with gear engagement, especially on downshifts.
Thanks! I have a rebuild kit here ready
5:56 Oddly enough i make the same noise when i use my back nowadays. ^__^;
Have a fantastic week man. ^__-
LOL! Thanks you too!
Hello Angel, great video. I like the way you explain what you are doing as you go, even your cut twice - think once method. As to 50F degrees, I would take that right now. Actually is is not too bad here at the moment at 33F - kind of balmy - LOL. Regards, Dave
Thanks Dave, it was very much a “wing it” moment!
I like your channel it’s relaxed and entertaining. The IFS is what Ford should have done. I’m dealing with the same shitty towers on my 66 here in Ontario. I love Arizona and its open spaces but mostly because of Route 66, I was in Kingman 4 weeks ago.
Thank you glad you enjoy the videos! Next time you should come by the shop 🤘🏼
Great video
Thanks Walter!
Angel the Pegasus rider! 1 inch snow today Vancouver Island...
Ouch! Too cold 😂
Dude you do you, just don't sell the car to anyone in a cold climate 🤣
Right 😂
Finally subscribed. You are basically doing my exact project, except I am doing a different engine & trans. I already got my 8.8 diff narrowed. My 65 still has the old 6 and trans in, but I had to tow it. I am going to try to get it to run, then get all my items so I can enjoy it while I get everything ready. Thanks for the great videos!
Hell yeah man! What engine/trans you thinking of going with ? Those 6cyl are bullet proof!
@@rookie__pilot that is the controversial question. I was thinking 5.0 and t5. But the more I look at it I was thinking 5.3 LS and tranny will be auto til I figure out a good manual that fits
I also have a 70 Gs from high school, but that one has a rebuilt engine and tranny which I did back before college. Has like 8k on that motor. I know a ford with LS would piss people off, but it’s my project and I want some power and don’t want to spend 8 k to get it.
Nice job. Maybe consider replacing the cowl now you have the windshield and front fenders out. You wont regret it! :D
Just found your videos. Love them!
Hell yeah! Thanks!
"We now have a transmission." *some assembly required...*
Transmission from IKEA
Hopefully came with some swedish meatballs...@@rookie__pilot
😂😂😂
It's not a GT, or anything too special. Cutting it up and keeping its spirit are way better than crushing it. Keep up the good work.
I had to cut the firewall and tunnel out of my 67 to squeeze a ls1 and t56 in the car. Im still running the stock suspension with shock towers. Had to make a log manifold for the passenger side and s 76 mm turbo due to no factory other than holley exhaust manifold would fit while running a borgeson steering box.
I probably would have notched that crossmember for oil pan clearance.
Im thinking of adding that style mustang 2 suspension in the future for a better turbo setup. Ill probably go with s CPP or hedits system.
Good job on the fab work
Thanks for your helpful tips! Ls1 and t56 sounds like a great combo! Im very surprised they fit with the stock shock towers. Thanks for your support 👍🏻👍🏻
You should watch a few shows of Iron Resurrection, on the Motor Trend Channel. Those guys have done a few good examples of firewall cutting when bringing in engines that were not original to the car they work on.
Will definitely do so, i need some reference!
My project different engine. I got lucky with a buy and got my hands on a 351w that I plan on stroking and supercharging for track days. Found you trying to see how the Mustang II front suspension kit from Helix would attach. I’m assuming since this is also a kit it’ll be roughly the same.
Hah I could hear the purists screaming all around the world, Angel. I like where it's going though. Couple things, first I think you should be able to make a heater work if you redesign the firewall patch with that in mind. You might not need the heater so much in AZ, but the windshield defog is definitely needed. Second, if you do decide to delete the heater, do put some ribbing in that sheetmetal patch panel (bead rolled or angle braced on the inside). If not that panel will drum like crazy.
Great point! I did not think of the defroster issue! Also i like the beading, i dont have a bead roller so maybe taking that patch to a machine shop. Also can you specify what you mean by angle braced?
@@rookie__pilot rather than beads in the panel, you could use sheetmetal angle spot welded to the back side of the patch. Keeps the clean look inside the engine bay, but won't allow the panel to drum. For bead rolling, find a place that does sheetmetal work like a commercial HVAC shop. Very few machine shops do sheetmetal fabrication IME (and I am a machinist/mechanic by trade).
@@rennkafer13 thank you very much!! This was one of my main concerns when cutting it, i knew drumming would be an issue but wasnt sure what way to go! This was great help!
@@rookie__pilot you're welcome, always happy to help. I've been building cars for quite a while (including a decade stint doing vintage race car restorations), so if you ever have a question, feel free to ask.
Hell yea, you seem like the right person to ask. Ill for sure have a more than a couple questions lol!
Imagine running a transaxle? You can damn near put the engine in the cabin 🤣
YES! Next build is going to be this 😂
try 20 degrees its so bad 🥶50 is nice with pants
Thank you. Enjoyed. Did u replace the other axle bearing and seal??
I have original the passenger side one still but replaced the cut side - bearing and seal. Maybe should replace the pax side
What kind motor mounts did you use on Mustang ii crossmember
Will be on the next video, they are speedway brand
Did they actually make the engine bay different for the V8 models? Or did they just have it up and forward?
You forgot the engine plate between the engine and transmission, it’s going to push the transmission back about another 1/16th to 1/8 inch. Doesn’t sound like much but I’ve seen the exact thing cause issues before.
I actually dont even have one lol. But youre right! Either i leave an extra bit of room for it or buy one, which im going to need it anyway
@@rookie__pilot I only mention it because I’ve made that mistake before building a race car and it sucks to be doing assembly and find out your mounts or something doesn’t line up. Great work so far. I’m following as I build my 65.
I'm curious, in order to add clearance between the oil pan and the rack and pinion, would another option have been to swap the oil pan out for a 5.0 Mustang's oil pan? I feel like the Mustang had a shallower pan. I'm a complete novice at modifying cars though so apologies if that's a dumb idea lol.
Not a dumb idea at all! The foxbody pans are a very popular oil pan to use with the mustang ii kits. As they have a recess in the middle. This is a mountaineer oil pan, it being rear sump made it even better for the relocation, im totally not sure if the foxbody one would allow for more clearance, but i also didnt want to buy another pan lol
@@rookie__pilot Ahh gotcha, Thanks for the reply, I hope to do something similar with a 69' Mustang so I really appreciate how you talk through multiple options and why you chose the one you did.
Could you notch the oilpan to clear the steering rack?
You could, but the crank clearance would be the main issue which would mean a lot of hours in fab work!
@@rookie__pilot ah, makes sense. Didn't know how much of the oil pan was for oil volume versus clearing internals 😋
Aren't there custom oil pans that could of got u that Clearance ?
I’m rebuilding my dad’s t-code 66’ that he swapped to a 302 back in the day. How much does a rack and pinion cost?
The rack an pinon was only $130 i believe, BUT this rack only works if you have a mustang ii set up like weve installed. There are some rack and piñons available for stock set ups aswell!
289 oil pan
does your fun sandwich come with mayo or gear oil ohhh wait they are the same thing
Using only japanese mayo in it 😂
@@rookie__pilot ohhh yuk Fish Mayo only the Japanese and Norwegians can like that stuff
@@jbar100 no no not fish mayo 😂😂😂
I hate to say it, but I think you're going to regret cutting out the heater box area...
We’ll see lol
@@rookie__pilot I hope I'm wrong...lol
I think you could have gotten a different oil pan and not had to cut the firewall.
We didnt cut the firewall for the oil pan fitment, we cut it to move the engine back for weight distribution
😎🍺👍🇦🇺
😎👍🏻🫡