I'd agree that it's from a previously broken rocker arm. On a super strict budget, I'd disassemble the bottom end and shoot a couple cans of brakleen though the oil passages and inside the block/crank, along with the bearing/oil pump inspection. Replace bearings/pump as necessary and reassemble the rest as is. Also gives you the opportunity to clean out any other fine gunk from the air duct you wouldn't see.
@@rookie__pilot ya, in engine building cleanliness is key. While that piece might not have damaged anything, his smaller relatives may be lurking elsewhere inside passages. Cleaning is time-consuming but cheap.
I’ve always wondered why they don’t make engine hoists to go around engine stands! I finally found one used that has a big U shaped base instead of a V.
@@rennkafer13 couldn't agree more. Also get some engine assembly lube. After you clean everything you'll have zero lubrication until the oil pressure comes up. It'll keep the bearings etc happy while that happens.
You should always remove oil pans from the bottom so if there is anything in it it doesn't fall in the engine unless you are going to do a total rebuild thanks for the videos
Great video, and thanks for the shout out! Looks like an old broken rocker arm for sure. Don’t worry about the dirt, it’s only a mistake if you fail to correct it. Give everything a good vacuum rather than blowing stuff around with air. Best of luck my friend.
I have watched you and this Channel for like 3 straight days and every video. I love it. Giving me all kinds of help and ideas for my 67 coupe restore.
I think you got lucky AF with that forbidden nugget just not getting a chance to cause mayhem. Definitely agree from @slowcarfix that a vacuum > compressed air unless you just can't get to it. Love the teardown video - can't wait for the next one! We are here for ya!
You’ve done what I would have with the lube the cylinders and crank it around to see if anything binds or falls loose . Only other thing I’d look into is run your magnet from below to check around crank bearings try to fish out anymore tiny pieces of metal … and inspect the pan for more shrapnel and bits in the sludge. Visually all the important surfaces look great
If you're really worried, pull all the rod and main caps, check for bearing damage. Even if you have to replace the bolts, it will give you some piece of mind.
Love the teardown!! Quite the mystery, finding that metal piece.. But I agree with the others here - likely a broken piece from a previous time. I think you got super lucky! As rennkafer said.... a little more teardown... and do some major cleaning... and I think you'll be fine! And I love to see more people kicking in on the support! If a few more peeps help out... this scrapstang will be running in no time!!
Yes! Now im super glad i tore it apart because at first i wasnt lol. That woulda made a whole lot of problems .. thanks Katman, i think people are following your lead!!
As a mechanic i think its fine definitely from a previous broken rocker. I kind of doubt it would move around once it sinks to the bottom it just stays there
My parent’s 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis with a 5.0 liter twice had a pushrod punch through a rocker arm. Different cylinders each time. The first time the engine had about 70,000 miles on it and we took out the pan and collected the pieces. The second time was about 130,000 miles and we just changed the rocker and pushrod and hoped for the best. Sold the car at 200,000 and it was still running ok. I always wondered if it was defective rocker arms because I’d never had anything like that happen before or since. I think something like that happened to this motor. Clean it out real well and it’ll probably be fine. If it’s not, then you’ll get a lot more content for your channel once it grenades and you rebuild it! 😂
You have GT40P cylinder heads, which have a different spark plug angle vs. other factory cylinder heads. In most cases you need GT40P specific headers or factory explorer exhaust manifolds.
From the red paint in the valley and the heads and the appearance of the valve springs you have a rebuilt engine. Also there's a part number on the pistons so you can check the pistons to see if it's been rebuilt. Possibly been bored out to a bigger piston size.
I just discovered your account by accident. I love the content. My son and I are currently in the middle of rebuilding my Mustang and trying to keep his Mustang on the road. Our T5 we bought was trashed inside also and not worth rebuilding. Your new engine has 4 bar GT40P heads, and appears to be from a Ford Explorer. So you may need to run those headers if you want to run those heads. The GT40P heads are notorious for having a horrible spark plug angle, requiring special headers. Or maybe thats why the headers were wrapped, to keep the wires from burning. But they are significantly better than the factory Mustang heads. 99% chance that engine runs fine and that broken rocker pedestal was just sittong in the pan.
I'd guess it broke a rocker arm. It probably was a chunk lost in the bottom of the pan and was simply not found in the repair. You could pull it apart. But I think just do a careful inspection and if nothing jumps out at you, run it. Worst case you go shopping for another 289/302/5.0
@@rookie__pilot If you go that route, try to find a later 5.0- I know GM went to one piece rear main oil seals and would expect Ford would also. Just a guess, but worth looking for.
Looks to be an Explorer motor with the GT40P heads. Check the cam for specs. I am guessing the previous owner added a cam without check for coil bind at full lift and that broke the rocker. That was a good score - btw.
On the broken piece in the oil pan I’d say a previous repair. Probably bounced around in there and wouldn’t hurt anything unless it sucked up thru the oil system. But there’s a screen on the oil pickup tube that wouldn’t allow that to happen. If you don’t find a broken piece anywhere I’d say put it back together and run it. So far it looks to be in good shape.
Like the vid Angel, no i do not know where that chunk of metal came from, could have been in there since the last rebuild , some a very complacent leaving bit of metal floating around at the bottom of the pan, thank you Sir
Having metal floating around like that from previous damage you may want to pull some caps and check to make sure no metal has gone through them as well.
hey dude it looks like the heads had the exhaust rotaters removed so thats good and someone painted the block with glyptal....seems like a good buy to me
The GT350 Hertz car that Hoovie’s garage had exhibited something similar. Car Wizard said his research showed it was common for a stressed 289 to have failed rockers and it was common to just replace the rocker and pushrod between rebuilds🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Angel, look carefully at the valve you noted that wasn't paint marked- check the valve guide for correct install, and perfect fit. This engine dropped a valve- a pushrod push through is a regular thing with this engine, I believe. Also check the lifter that actuates that valve- poor bleed down could have been the first failure that led to the larger one. That should mean the valve, rocker, the pushrod and the lifter should all be newer than the others. However, if one lifter has had a problem, be looking for others that are in the least "not spec". Also start looking for after market rockers- roller rockers would suit this engine and largely end the push through problem, but watch for bent push rods. And take full advantage of your "resources" from others- you know some really competent people to go to for advice, The only dumb question you will ever be sorry for is the one you didn't ask and have to pay later for. All of the tools you should need to suss out the valve train can be rented and those advisors will give you the info to use them. That you found the rocker arm bit in the oil pan is due to an in car top end job would be my bet. I don't think the rear main seal mess was done at the same time the valve was. Signed a hot rodder with a half century of busted parts and squashed fingers, Fred
Looks like debris from previous budget rebuild. I would still check bearings and oil pump. If they look OK, clean everything best you can and reassemble. Good luck! 😎👍🐎🏁🏁
It happen before and the bit of the rocker arm probably hold by the oil and they fix the rocker arm..and as it no smal pieces in the oil its no problem..new gasket and put it together again
Have you looked at the lifters? Edit: I can see where you think it may have come from a previous part that was replaced. You may well be right. I only thought of the lifters because they are closest to the oil pan. But I think that engine was not run after the last rebuild because that little piece should have done a lot of damage.
That little piece probably fell to a corner of the pan and just laid there. If it continuously ricocheted around in the pan the piece would have had rounded off corners and you would see tiny impacts inside the pan. It probably migrated to the pickup screen area and stayed there.
I have a 302 small block that hasn’t run in almost 30 years still sitting inside my 66’ Mustang. I have some knowledge on how to take part and put back the motor but nothing crazy. My idea was to take the whole thing apart and get it machined, then put new internals back into it to make sure it’s “reliable” for daily driving. But after watching your video I feel like the way you’re going about it is much more budget friendly, which I’m trying to be with my build as well. So I guess my question is, can the engine still be reliable and daily drivable without tearing it and getting it machined?
Definitely do-able! But it depends on what condition the motor was before it sat. Like i said in the video its easy to make it a high ticket project when you add machine work or new parts. Dont get me wrong those things will ensure a really good rebuild, but if the engine was okay already it should be fine to just put back together and run again!
Probably from the previous rebuild. Maybe they cranked it up and shut it down immediately. Looked for the culprit and couldn’t find it. Pulled the engine and moved on. I’ve seen stranger things.
@@rookie__pilot They got everything else but didn't clean the pan. Sounds a bit shade tree. Though not many trees in Yuma. Keep going Angel, you're doing a great job. You are being real. Thanks!
@@rookie__pilot I used work as an Industrial insulator and that ceramic fiber wrap on that exhaust while great at containing heat is wore for your lungs then fiber glass insulation you would see in a home
Angel, I want to be helpful, not critical. I only know you from Sarah so I know nothing about your skill and knowledge level. As has been mentioned, that is an explorer 5.0. It is 50 oz. balance with Ford's shortest front drive. That front cover only works with the explorer water pump. It does have gt40p heads that have the springs and retainers swapped out. The keeper location isn't the same on the exhaust and intake valves so pay attention to installed spring height. If you scrap the top of the pistons, it should be marked which oversize they are. The engine has been painted with glyptal which never was oem. Those engines came with a one piece oil pan gasket. Whoever rebuilt the engine used a cheap gasket. Under no circumstances do you not remove the crank and check all of the bearings and clearances. If nothing else you may have a good core to start with. If you don't have mics and a dial bore gauge, I strongly encourage you to find someone who does to do accurate measuring. Make sure you use a thread chaser tap on the head bolt holes. If you don't know, the bottom row needs sealant because they are in the water jacket. Go to 5speeds.com or a similar website and look up the differences on your t5's. They are different. I'm sure you know that you will need to change the pan and pickup to go into your mustang. The water outlest are reversed on reverse rotation water pumps so that needs to be considered. I'm old and have no memory so I don't remember the outlet location on your new radiator. Pull the cam and see what numbers are on it. If it's a regrind, that might explain the use of rocker shims. The stock pushrod length is right at 6.25 so if you measure them, it will give you some insight into what you have. Best wishes.
I'd agree that it's from a previously broken rocker arm. On a super strict budget, I'd disassemble the bottom end and shoot a couple cans of brakleen though the oil passages and inside the block/crank, along with the bearing/oil pump inspection. Replace bearings/pump as necessary and reassemble the rest as is. Also gives you the opportunity to clean out any other fine gunk from the air duct you wouldn't see.
Very good idea with the brake clean in the oil passages, from the looks of it theres no damage so we might just do that!
@@rookie__pilot ya, in engine building cleanliness is key. While that piece might not have damaged anything, his smaller relatives may be lurking elsewhere inside passages. Cleaning is time-consuming but cheap.
I’ve always wondered why they don’t make engine hoists to go around engine stands! I finally found one used that has a big U shaped base instead of a V.
@@rennkafer13 couldn't agree more. Also get some engine assembly lube. After you clean everything you'll have zero lubrication until the oil pressure comes up. It'll keep the bearings etc happy while that happens.
Nicest guy, IN THE WORLD. All power and good Karma to you Angel.🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🐨
cylinder 3 valve had the number missing, maybe there was an issue with that rocker and its from there. It could be a replacement rocker there now.
Yup yup!
You should always remove oil pans from the bottom so if there is anything in it it doesn't fall in the engine unless you are going to do a total rebuild thanks for the videos
Great video, and thanks for the shout out! Looks like an old broken rocker arm for sure. Don’t worry about the dirt, it’s only a mistake if you fail to correct it. Give everything a good vacuum rather than blowing stuff around with air. Best of luck my friend.
Great idea thanks!
I have watched you and this Channel for like 3 straight days and every video. I love it. Giving me all kinds of help and ideas for my 67 coupe restore.
Hell yeah!! Thanks for the support!
I think you got lucky AF with that forbidden nugget just not getting a chance to cause mayhem. Definitely agree from @slowcarfix that a vacuum > compressed air unless you just can't get to it. Love the teardown video - can't wait for the next one! We are here for ya!
Yes, im glad i tore it down!
You’ve done what I would have with the lube the cylinders and crank it around to see if anything binds or falls loose . Only other thing I’d look into is run your magnet from below to check around crank bearings try to fish out anymore tiny pieces of metal … and inspect the pan for more shrapnel and bits in the sludge. Visually all the important surfaces look great
If you're really worried, pull all the rod and main caps, check for bearing damage. Even if you have to replace the bolts, it will give you some piece of mind.
Good idea!
Love the teardown!! Quite the mystery, finding that metal piece.. But I agree with the others here - likely a broken piece from a previous time. I think you got super lucky!
As rennkafer said.... a little more teardown... and do some major cleaning... and I think you'll be fine!
And I love to see more people kicking in on the support! If a few more peeps help out... this scrapstang will be running in no time!!
Yes! Now im super glad i tore it apart because at first i wasnt lol. That woulda made a whole lot of problems .. thanks Katman, i think people are following your lead!!
Pull a mains or rod cap n check for signs of metal shavings damage
👍🏻
yep, I think it,s all good buddy
As a mechanic i think its fine definitely from a previous broken rocker. I kind of doubt it would move around once it sinks to the bottom it just stays there
Thats what im thinking👍🏻
Shout out to Cody. That was really cool. 👍👍👍👍👍
Right!
My parent’s 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis with a 5.0 liter twice had a pushrod punch through a rocker arm. Different cylinders each time. The first time the engine had about 70,000 miles on it and we took out the pan and collected the pieces. The second time was about 130,000 miles and we just changed the rocker and pushrod and hoped for the best. Sold the car at 200,000 and it was still running ok. I always wondered if it was defective rocker arms because I’d never had anything like that happen before or since. I think something like that happened to this motor. Clean it out real well and it’ll probably be fine. If it’s not, then you’ll get a lot more content for your channel once it grenades and you rebuild it! 😂
You have GT40P cylinder heads, which have a different spark plug angle vs. other factory cylinder heads. In most cases you need GT40P specific headers or factory explorer exhaust manifolds.
From the red paint in the valley and the heads and the appearance of the valve springs you have a rebuilt engine. Also there's a part number on the pistons so you can check the pistons to see if it's been rebuilt. Possibly been bored out to a bigger piston size.
I just discovered your account by accident. I love the content. My son and I are currently in the middle of rebuilding my Mustang and trying to keep his Mustang on the road. Our T5 we bought was trashed inside also and not worth rebuilding. Your new engine has 4 bar GT40P heads, and appears to be from a Ford Explorer. So you may need to run those headers if you want to run those heads. The GT40P heads are notorious for having a horrible spark plug angle, requiring special headers. Or maybe thats why the headers were wrapped, to keep the wires from burning. But they are significantly better than the factory Mustang heads. 99% chance that engine runs fine and that broken rocker pedestal was just sittong in the pan.
@3:53 - Ahh. You're good Angel, tener otro Boba.
I'd guess it broke a rocker arm. It probably was a chunk lost in the bottom of the pan and was simply not found in the repair.
You could pull it apart. But I think just do a careful inspection and if nothing jumps out at you, run it. Worst case you go shopping for another 289/302/5.0
My thoughts exactly, thanks!
@@rookie__pilot If you go that route, try to find a later 5.0- I know GM went to one piece rear main oil seals and would expect Ford would also. Just a guess, but worth looking for.
Looks to be an Explorer motor with the GT40P heads. Check the cam for specs. I am guessing the previous owner added a cam without check for coil bind at full lift and that broke the rocker. That was a good score - btw.
On the broken piece in the oil pan I’d say a previous repair. Probably bounced around in there and wouldn’t hurt anything unless it sucked up thru the oil system. But there’s a screen on the oil pickup tube that wouldn’t allow that to happen. If you don’t find a broken piece anywhere I’d say put it back together and run it. So far it looks to be in good shape.
Like the vid Angel, no i do not know where that chunk of metal came from, could have been in there since the last rebuild , some a very complacent leaving bit of metal floating around at the bottom of the pan, thank you Sir
Very cool man. Glad those parts went to a good home and a great project 🤙🏻
Having metal floating around like that from previous damage you may want to pull some caps and check to make sure no metal has gone through them as well.
Good idea!
Second and no I have no idea why that piece was in the oil pan. If I had to guess (not a mechanic) it was left there from the first engine rebuild?
Thats what im thinking
High Fives Cody... You rock
hey dude it looks like the heads had the exhaust rotaters removed so thats good and someone painted the block with glyptal....seems like a good buy to me
Thanks! I noticed that too!
don't sweat it. Clean it up and and reassemble
The GT350 Hertz car that Hoovie’s garage had exhibited something similar. Car Wizard said his research showed it was common for a stressed 289 to have failed rockers and it was common to just replace the rocker and pushrod between rebuilds🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Right👍🏻
From number 3 Valve replacement, they likely bent a valve and broke the rocker
Thats from a broken rocker. They fished everything out, but that made it down to the pan.
I agree!
Angel, look carefully at the valve you noted that wasn't paint marked- check the valve guide for correct install, and perfect fit. This engine dropped a valve- a pushrod push through is a regular thing with this engine, I believe. Also check the lifter that actuates that valve- poor bleed down could have been the first failure that led to the larger one. That should mean the valve, rocker, the pushrod and the lifter should all be newer than the others. However, if one lifter has had a problem, be looking for others that are in the least "not spec". Also start looking for after market rockers- roller rockers would suit this engine and largely end the push through problem, but watch for bent push rods. And take full advantage of your "resources" from others- you know some really competent people to go to for advice, The only dumb question you will ever be sorry for is the one you didn't ask and have to pay later for. All of the tools you should need to suss out the valve train can be rented and those advisors will give you the info to use them. That you found the rocker arm bit in the oil pan is due to an in car top end job would be my bet. I don't think the rear main seal mess was done at the same time the valve was. Signed a hot rodder with a half century of busted parts and squashed fingers, Fred
Is a rocker arm that came off when they opened it up the first time that broke off that's why they had to open it up
It’s the scrap stang slap it together
And see if you can put a piston through the block.make a great video
😎🍺👍🇦🇺
I'm not qualified to comment on the rocker arm fragment. But I am intrigued.
You and me both!
Looks like debris from previous budget rebuild. I would still check bearings and oil pump. If they look OK, clean everything best you can and reassemble. Good luck! 😎👍🐎🏁🏁
🫡🤘🏼
Looks like a piece of a rocker arm? Maybe a previous set that was replaced.
Likely!
I see a coating of glyptol that is very interesting
all right cup cake you have my vote😂
It happen before and the bit of the rocker arm probably hold by the oil and they fix the rocker arm..and as it no smal pieces in the oil its no problem..new gasket and put it together again
My thoughts exactly 🤘🏼
I can't fathom how that broken chunk would get from valves to the bottom end.
Have you looked at the lifters?
Edit: I can see where you think it may have come from a previous part that was replaced. You may well be right. I only thought of the lifters because they are closest to the oil pan. But I think that engine was not run after the last rebuild because that little piece should have done a lot of damage.
Will be doing that in the next video!
That little piece probably fell to a corner of the pan and just laid there. If it continuously ricocheted around in the pan the piece would have had rounded off corners and you would see tiny impacts inside the pan.
It probably migrated to the pickup screen area and stayed there.
CRAZY! MYSTERY PIECE!
Had me very confused 😂
Measure the size of the bore to see if it has been machined larger than stock.
I have a 302 small block that hasn’t run in almost 30 years still sitting inside my 66’ Mustang. I have some knowledge on how to take part and put back the motor but nothing crazy. My idea was to take the whole thing apart and get it machined, then put new internals back into it to make sure it’s “reliable” for daily driving. But after watching your video I feel like the way you’re going about it is much more budget friendly, which I’m trying to be with my build as well. So I guess my question is, can the engine still be reliable and daily drivable without tearing it and getting it machined?
Definitely do-able! But it depends on what condition the motor was before it sat. Like i said in the video its easy to make it a high ticket project when you add machine work or new parts. Dont get me wrong those things will ensure a really good rebuild, but if the engine was okay already it should be fine to just put back together and run again!
Send it!
🫡
Thanks for sharing another interesting video
Check the cam
Nice work! Maybe it’s. Piece of an old lifter
Yes!
Probably from the previous rebuild. Maybe they cranked it up and shut it down immediately. Looked for the culprit and couldn’t find it. Pulled the engine and moved on. I’ve seen stranger things.
Possible yes!
Was the piece the reason for the previous engine rebuild? You got it!
I think so!
@@rookie__pilot They got everything else but didn't clean the pan. Sounds a bit shade tree. Though not many trees in Yuma. Keep going Angel, you're doing a great job. You are being real. Thanks!
I feel bad. I made the 302nd like the 303rd like. lol
Cody is the man 👊
Right!!
send it!
🫡👍🏻
Them headers are wrapped not in fiber glass but in ceramic fibers🤔😨
Some kind of fiber thats not good lol
@@rookie__pilot I used work as an Industrial insulator and that ceramic fiber wrap on that exhaust while great at containing heat is wore for your lungs then fiber glass insulation you would see in a home
Left over from previous buld
What yr is the truck the motor came out of
it would help if you made you content a little shorter. buy the way Angel Sarah gave you a heads up😂
Another hernia? Dude, got gotta all for help more often. Use your engine hoist for heavy things. You have people counting on you!
Youre right!!
cup cake😅
Angel, I want to be helpful, not critical. I only know you from Sarah so I know nothing about your skill and knowledge level. As has been mentioned, that is an explorer 5.0. It is 50 oz. balance with Ford's shortest front drive. That front cover only works with the explorer water pump. It does have gt40p heads that have the springs and retainers swapped out. The keeper location isn't the same on the exhaust and intake valves so pay attention to installed spring height. If you scrap the top of the pistons, it should be marked which oversize they are. The engine has been painted with glyptal which never was oem. Those engines came with a one piece oil pan gasket. Whoever rebuilt the engine used a cheap gasket. Under no circumstances do you not remove the crank and check all of the bearings and clearances. If nothing else you may have a good core to start with. If you don't have mics and a dial bore gauge, I strongly encourage you to find someone who does to do accurate measuring. Make sure you use a thread chaser tap on the head bolt holes. If you don't know, the bottom row needs sealant because they are in the water jacket. Go to 5speeds.com or a similar website and look up the differences on your t5's. They are different. I'm sure you know that you will need to change the pan and pickup to go into your mustang. The water outlest are reversed on reverse rotation water pumps so that needs to be considered. I'm old and have no memory so I don't remember the outlet location on your new radiator. Pull the cam and see what numbers are on it. If it's a regrind, that might explain the use of rocker shims. The stock pushrod length is right at 6.25 so if you measure them, it will give you some insight into what you have. Best wishes.
👊👍
First!
Sup foodcake
Sup 😎