Hi Henry, I've only worked on one Kohler engine last summer that needed it's carb cleaned Out. I didn't realize they developed engine block cracks. That sounds like a severe manufacturing defect. I held kohler to a higher standard. Probably due to my lack of experience and not being a small engine mechanic. Great video though. Keep up the great work!
I've got the exact same crack on my kohler courage 18. Didn't know that those bolts are coming off...damn it. I'll try to jb weld it again and this time im gonna put locktite on the bolts. Anyway...do you know a good replacement engine for the kohler courage 18 sv540 shit box? Something that works plug and play?
@@Emslaender_Jung if you do motorcycles, you’re already qualified for mowers…lol. But if your mower had electric pto, rear gas tank, fuel pump then it could get complicated
Next time you have a cracked aluminum block with a running motor please try the aluminum brazing rods. You can repair aluminum with just the rods and a propane torch for plumbing. Hobart and Harbor Freight carry them. I am interested to see if it will work.
Yes I’ve always known about that but due to the crack being close to the sump gasket, my fear is that the heat will ruin the gasket and cause a bigger leak.
@@MowersNBlowers I figure to save the engine it would be worth removing the sump cover and replacing the gasket even if it is just silicone. Also I found JB Weld has a Marine grade epoxy that is oil and gas resistant. This makes me wonder if the original version is susceptible to break down from the oil in the crank case. I found it at Advance Auto Parts.
I asked the guy who gave it to me, freeeeeee..... The engine which is a 17hp v twin kawasaki, is only 3 years old, I've had it for a 1 year, and he had it replaced in 2019 with a new one, so that engine is mine....only has 35 hrs of the 1750 hrs on it. LMAO it's the one on the JD X304 I'm parting out, the hood which is plastic is in perfect shape should fetch a pretty penny.... He has the paper work for the replacement kawasaki.... Cool.
Project Farm, cut a slot in a head, filled with J.B. Weld and the engine ran fine. Was an interesting experiment. I would think J.B. Weld for this would work.
Doublewide6 has repaired cracked engine blocks with his spool gun welder with great success. I would think that with the number of free engines you get it may worth the expense of setting one of these up.
I tried removing the old cork style valve gasket on Kohler and using Permatex, doesn't work. If gasket is in good shape, apply Permatex on top of gasket and tighten bolts evenly and snuggly. All the bolts around sump cover need to be checked and tightened. Use closed end of wrench, hand tighten, then take a hammer and tap wrench a couple of times. The Kohler Courage single cylinder is even a bigger dog, but the Courage in general is a POS.
Omg bro, forget that, just did the parts for the x304, holy crap cheapest I can find them is as follows, sector gear, either with whole assembly, 275 bucks, just sector 95 to 112 bucks, then the steering wheel shaft, which is one piece 215 dollars talking over 400 dollars, just for parts, tractor has over 1750 hrs on the 17 hp kawasaki, the machine is in perfect condition except for the steering, runs moves and mows, sucks when a tiny part like that takes a whole machine out, oh well time to part it out, just sucks bro.
Just the sector gear from 95 to 112 dollars still has to be pro level at a machine shop pressed out and press back on again, and that's 100 bucks on a good day, John deere sucks.
Omg doing a John deere, x304 all wheel steering pos, it's the kind you have to take the steering wheel off, which is splined, so you need a special John deere steering wheel puller, then come to find out its the steering sector that was bad, well stripped out, so the steering wheel skips teeth, thought it was the bottom bushing wallowed out, but it's now, so now instead of the steering sector being the kind you just unbolt and it comes down, nope, it's splined aswell, and needs another special tool to pull that off, and come to find out, you have to move the steering wheel back and forth to get a socket wrench on the bolts to drop the all wheel steering sector, Omg it's a pain the arse, once done, it should be good to go.
Hi Henry, I've only worked on one Kohler engine last summer that needed it's carb cleaned Out. I didn't realize they developed engine block cracks. That sounds like a severe manufacturing defect. I held kohler to a higher standard. Probably due to my lack of experience and not being a small engine mechanic. Great video though. Keep up the great work!
This is unique only to the courage engines. The others are good.
I came for "CLETUS"🤣💪🏽
👍
I've got the exact same crack on my kohler courage 18. Didn't know that those bolts are coming off...damn it. I'll try to jb weld it again and this time im gonna put locktite on the bolts. Anyway...do you know a good replacement engine for the kohler courage 18 sv540 shit box? Something that works plug and play?
Any engine fits. But a similar Kohler command, Briggs 15hp-17.5 would work fine
@@MowersNBlowers thx, i'm just getting into lawn mowers...i'm a motorcycle guy, shouldn't be that hard😅
@@Emslaender_Jung if you do motorcycles, you’re already qualified for mowers…lol. But if your mower had electric pto, rear gas tank, fuel pump then it could get complicated
How has the motor held up since you’ve done this ?
Sold it a week later, so no idea
I got a free husk 3800 pressure washer last week. It as new and dod not run because 50:1 mix was in it
You couldn't pay me to fix one of those engines. Whoever works on that engine next with the red loctite is going to hate life. haha.
Apply heat to loosen red Loctite. Bolts will come out no problem.
Next time you have a cracked aluminum block with a running motor please try the aluminum brazing rods. You can repair aluminum with just the rods and a propane torch for plumbing. Hobart and Harbor Freight carry them. I am interested to see if it will work.
Yes I’ve always known about that but due to the crack being close to the sump gasket, my fear is that the heat will ruin the gasket and cause a bigger leak.
@@MowersNBlowers I figure to save the engine it would be worth removing the sump cover and replacing the gasket even if it is just silicone. Also I found JB Weld has a Marine grade epoxy that is oil and gas resistant. This makes me wonder if the original version is susceptible to break down from the oil in the crank case. I found it at Advance Auto Parts.
@@Andy-nm9dw yeah I’ve seen that too, I’ll try it someday. Thanks bro
That looks like fun.
My alter ego is always cussing me out! Whats that all about? LOL. Henry i think you may have saved that engine.👍🎥🐕Roger
I asked the guy who gave it to me, freeeeeee..... The engine which is a 17hp v twin kawasaki, is only 3 years old, I've had it for a 1 year, and he had it replaced in 2019 with a new one, so that engine is mine....only has 35 hrs of the 1750 hrs on it. LMAO it's the one on the JD X304 I'm parting out, the hood which is plastic is in perfect shape should fetch a pretty penny.... He has the paper work for the replacement kawasaki.... Cool.
Henry super video
Take flywheel off and do it. Right.
Project Farm, cut a slot in a head, filled with J.B. Weld and the engine ran fine. Was an interesting experiment. I would think J.B. Weld for this would work.
I’ve done it before and I’ve had success with it. I dremelled a channel, looks good.
Doublewide6 has repaired cracked engine blocks with his spool gun welder with great success. I would think that with the number of free engines you get it may worth the expense of setting one of these up.
I’ve wanted to try brazen rods
Lmao when you swore at the redloctite in a blue bottle and the blue loctite in a red bottle!! Lmaoooo so true it is absolutely stupid as hell haha 😂😆
I'm not a fan of swearing in general but that word was definitely necessary in that rant hahahah. WTF permatex!
I see your alter ego made an appearance.....did you forget to take your medication again?? :)
I tried removing the old cork style valve gasket on Kohler and using Permatex, doesn't work. If gasket is in good shape, apply Permatex on top of gasket and tighten bolts evenly and snuggly.
All the bolts around sump cover need to be checked and tightened. Use closed end of wrench, hand tighten, then take a hammer and tap wrench a couple of times. The Kohler Courage single cylinder is even a bigger dog, but the Courage in general is a POS.
Agreed
Courage = made in China = piece of crap
Omg bro, forget that, just did the parts for the x304, holy crap cheapest I can find them is as follows, sector gear, either with whole assembly, 275 bucks, just sector 95 to 112 bucks, then the steering wheel shaft, which is one piece 215 dollars talking over 400 dollars, just for parts, tractor has over 1750 hrs on the 17 hp kawasaki, the machine is in perfect condition except for the steering, runs moves and mows, sucks when a tiny part like that takes a whole machine out, oh well time to part it out, just sucks bro.
Like I said pull flywheel and lock tightly all the bolts.
Why? All bolts are accessible without removing the flywheel. The two under the flywheel were tightened by wrenches.
Just the sector gear from 95 to 112 dollars still has to be pro level at a machine shop pressed out and press back on again, and that's 100 bucks on a good day, John deere sucks.
Omg doing a John deere, x304 all wheel steering pos, it's the kind you have to take the steering wheel off, which is splined, so you need a special John deere steering wheel puller, then come to find out its the steering sector that was bad, well stripped out, so the steering wheel skips teeth, thought it was the bottom bushing wallowed out, but it's now, so now instead of the steering sector being the kind you just unbolt and it comes down, nope, it's splined aswell, and needs another special tool to pull that off, and come to find out, you have to move the steering wheel back and forth to get a socket wrench on the bolts to drop the all wheel steering sector, Omg it's a pain the arse, once done, it should be good to go.
What a terrible design! I know a few people who have tractors with that POS engine, so far none leak but it looks like it’s just a matter of time.
As long as the bolts are tight and you have hood gaskets, it’ll be ok
Junk engine
I like your show. But I don't like some of the language you use.
Thanks, just keeping it real bro. Real life uses real language.