Hehe - you got that right. Mowing the lawn with a bird is one thing; giving the wife a new doo is on an order of magnitude more risky. Glad you got a little laugh out of it. Thanks again! 👍
LOL I actually accidentally, trimmed some face hair in a live show at a mall kiosk, with the Syma F3 fixed pitched and everyone thought it was on purpose and a joke in 2012.
Im not the brightest bulb in next months Tree but its also amazing that none of the others top Manufacturers, have jumped on direct drive wagon. ? Nice lil Chopper, Thanks for your time & stay warm.
I didn't check to see Who made the video… But instantly I knew it was you John… I left a review earlier tonight and basically the same review again you are freaking awesome… Never have I seen such a wonderful reviews flying the whole 9 yards… The manufacturer couldn't do as good as you are. This helicopter does look nice I said I wouldn't buy the last one I commented on but this one looks really cool. Actually I did see it about a week ago surfing the net and I noticed the direct drive motor and I said wow. And then after hearing you I believe this is a good machine. But your reviews man Are they incredible
@Peter Ede Glad to hear you are flying RC eggbeaters after a short hiatus. If you like the performance & feel of your M2, you'll probably really like the M1 as well. It's one of the best yard flyers to practice on IMO.
Brilliant video as always John ! I used to fly over 10years ago. I have the M2V1 and have purchased the newer controller that goes in the M2V2 ( more adjustments) , cant wait to get this little M1 rocks ! I have downloaded all your e-books - going through all the basics again and have learned a few new things and corrected a few bad habits on my setups ! Thank you ! Cheers from Waterloo Ontario Canada !
@@Rchelicopterfun out of the hobby 5 years has gaui x3 last bird. ..I have dx6e but haven't got mini receiver to add on to it so just using the omp non-comouterized T6..is it a pain to convert over mounting little receiver....what do you do with all the extra wire without cutting and soldering...is there one I can buy dsmx with a short lead
Not sure about shorter Sat RX harnesses, I've honestly never looked for one. Must be some out there I would think for all those flying tiny quad-copters with DSM2/X sats. Myself on a micro that needs a very short sat RX harness, I would either cut the harness to length and hard solder the one end direct to the receiver board to eliminate a failure prone connector & reduce the weight a bit. Another option I would also consider is to make my own custom length harness with JST ZH plugs but you need the correct crimp tool for that and working on those tiny plugs & pins is a total PIA (at least I find them to be). There are also a plethora of aftermarket DSM2 & DSMX micro RX's on the market that you can solder any length of harness to or perhaps come with a harness already soldered on.
@@Rchelicopterfun I had a dx6i years ago...aobwentbout for dx6e and now I'm overwhelmed and may just return it...it's so complicated for my M1...maybe since I'm just a sport flyer mild 3D back in the day, I should just use the T6 which came with it....ugg
Good review John. My 130X and 180CFX are suddenly looking a bit long in the tooth, even though they still work very well with the mods I've done on them. Tempting though...($320 CAD hmmmn.)
Thanks for this review. Very good explanation and detail of this helicopter. Simple question, how long to fly in normal or scale mode. Greetings from Quebec, Canada.
Yep, I find these 120 to 130 size micros in the "sweat spot" size wise for at home practice in the average size yard. Not too small that you can't see them, yet not too big that your can't stretch their wings (rotors).
The M1 is the best bird that I have flown period. Nothing has come close to the fluid feel of the M1, I mean I tell it to fly along nice and slow and it just does it. Other birds it's like you tap the cyclic too hard and it just gets going and it quickly spirals out of control and trying to stop it is like trying to stop a speeding train.
Just a "heads up" John, I received my M1 last week and they have done away with the wire antenna and are using a trace on the circuit board now. "No glue required" lol.
Having to use their batteries would make it tricky. I've already had to modify my K110 so that I can use the batteries that are available locally due to difficulty getting lithium batteries shipped.
John, Great Video!! With both the M1 and the M2, am I correct in thinking that if you use the OMP radio protocol you are restricted to the three headspeeds they specify, but if you use either DSM2/DSMX or S-BUS you can set the headspeeds to your own liking with the usual flat throttle curves for Idle up, 1,2,3? (I don't use Normal mode anymore) Thanks!
MN native here love the winter flying! Should I get rid of the spektrum sat rx and use OMP protocol for the 16s max? I have the latest M1 and M2, both have OMP protocol.
Depends on you & what you consider more important. Weight savings and telemetry (with the built-in OMP RX) at the expensive of losing fine throttle control (3 fixed governed head speeds only with the OMP RX). I cover that in the OMP Protocol and Telemetry videos: - ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html - ua-cam.com/video/_bW5aZ6LvhY/v-deo.html Personally on the MI, I most certainly did not want to add the extra weight of a Spektrum sat RX and I use the the internal OMP RX. M2's however, you barely notice the extra weight. I run all 3 of my M2's now however with the internal RX now, Their 3 governed head speeds are pretty much the same head speeds I was running before with flat line throttle curves with the external RX's.
I've been considering getting a M1 to compliment my M2 Explore, After watching this video several times, yesterday I ordered one from Buddy RC. Thanks for another great YT John! I hope that OMP and Buddy RC compensate you for your thorough reviews of their products. PS I just ordered and downloaded your RC Helicopter Tips & Setup eBook, something that I should have done a long time ago.
Do have the mapping of this heli on Tx 16 available for sale!!! I have rtf version don’t care for the transmitter, I have a Tx 16 but don’t know a thing about programming a heli, just jump in after 20 years of flying rc fixed wing… Thank you in advance!
I cover OMP mapping in the OMP Protocol/OpenTX Video: ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html Mapping is also shown & explained on Multi-Module's website (a must bookmark site for all Multi-Module users) on their OMP Protocol page: www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/protocol-details/omp Another OMP protocol video of interest you may find useful is this one I made that shows how to create a logical switch function if you want to throttle off of low stick in one or more flight modes: ua-cam.com/video/xfNdUKCKWc0/v-deo.html Also have an Open/EdgeTX for collective pitch RC helicopters video: ua-cam.com/video/XdFOndPG7xo/v-deo.html
Nice thinking about getting back into cp helis. This might be the one to get. Charge harness video would be awesome. Would like to use my charger I use with my quad batteries
Sorry to bother after so long. I have a brand new M1, the SFHSS version only, and mimicked your binding procedure with complete success. But what about subsequent binds: does one have to take the canopy out just to press the bind switch for 3 secs? Hard to believe ...
Fantastic video. Almost like being in a hobby shop only better because you know what you’re talking about. If I could only afford one… The M2 or the M1… Which one would you recommend for a novice pilot?
Depends on your flying area. The M2 needs more space, the M1 is well suited to average size yards. Neither is really a "novice" heli, unless you've already setup & flown collective pitch helicopters before.
As a complete novice I have taught myself to fly indoors straight to CP with an XK K110 and X6 using John’s videos and techniques from www.rchelicopterfun.com I’m trying to decide whether to progress to an M1 or M2 Explore as my next heli - but I wholeheartedly recommend the K110 for first timers as you can literally bounce it off things and it just keeps coming back for more!
How much max current does the M1 draw at high head speed and pitch? There is no ESC rating anywere. 3 min Flight works out to about 7 Amp average. So lets say 10A on a pitch pump?
I've been in and out of the heli rc world since 1984, my first helicopter being the GMP Cobra. Lately I've been a bit confused about the practice of powering up the helicopter before the transmitter: Is there no chance of the heli doing something on its own before it is slaved to a transmitter? dave
The standard practice with today's spread spectrum RF RC radio equipment is to still always power up the TX before the RX. Generally, the only time you would ever deviate from that sequence is when you have to put some RX's into special operational modes where they might have to get powered up first - such as binding. Regardless, it's extremely unlikely (impossible actually) a spread spectrum RX would send a throttle signal if powered on first as they are micro-processor controlled and only interpret digital coded RF signals that are also frequency hopping in a specific and timed sequence. There is, for all intents & purposes, no chance of some stray RF source causing a throttle glitch in other words.
Great review, they seem to be sold out, can not even preorder now? I don't have a micro, I'm flying an Align Trex 550 and 450. So get this M1 when available or the Align 150?
Nice to see! But why isn’t there a adapter to charge like it was said at rcgroups? They changed the spare parts multiple times, from clear blades to the screw drives, and they also talked about a charging adapter...
No idea other than this being the first small batch of M1's that was sent out, so there may be changes in what they ship with. We or any forum thread can't assume what the finalized bag of goodies will include - that is entirely up to the manufacturer and their supply chain. It's easy to build one however and I think many of us in the hobby already have something that will work. Even a JST-XH balance or para board could easily be adapted to work; but I agree, including a simple charge harness is likely a good call. Knowing how OMP listens to their customers, I'm sure it will be addressed.
Is it set up out of the box, or do you have to level the swash and set all the flybarless up before first flight, dont know if I can be bothered with that all again, just finished doing my trex 500 and a hurricane 200, +1 vote to build my own balance board too, im surprised it doesnt come with one, the M2 does.
As I show & demonstrate in the video, the M1 like the M2 comes out of the box setup mechanically well with the FBL system set at mid values which I find very good. You of course still have to set the heli up in your radio for your flying style, pitch/throttle curves, dual/expo rates - etc. I link the charge harness build video in the description, but here it is again: ua-cam.com/video/fpSLCf_epk4/v-deo.html
@Prindle. I cover this question in detail on my Best RC Helicopter page on my site: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html Pros, Cons, Compromises, etc. Primary consideration is of course the size of your flying area.
So we are now 2 years later, would you take an M1 today? First heli for me, I flew sail planes real and rc, I am now retired, I want something I can growth with (not a toy) and for me quality of construction and material is important also realism in flying. What would you say is the best quality rc heli in that size (more or less) today? Would you buy a used rc heli? Ever? Should I go to an M2 instead? Thank you! a.
Pretty much cover these questions in detail on my best RC helicopter page on my site: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html As for the M1, I would absolutely get it again as it's my favorite small helicopter of all time for practicing in my size of yard: ua-cam.com/video/BWnC5gKedeg/v-deo.html Best size will be totally dependent on your flying environment as covered on that best RC helicopter page.
Did you ever change the factory settings off of 5 after flying the M1. I just started using you M2 model set up, but have really only flying in low rates. I crashed too many times using Jonas’s model setup. Lol
John - great information in your videos as always - thanks. I am looking at something more robust that my XK K110 to learn on so thinking of the M1. Would I be better getting the S-FHSS version to allow great choice in setup and curves or is the telemetry available in the OMP protocol of more value? Thanks, Mark
@modellermark2 - That really depends on the person and what you deem most important - more setup flexibility or having telemetry. Of course also assuming you have both protocols on the specific radio/s you are flying with naturally. Personally, I feel telemetry on small little helicopters is more or less a lost feature, but that is just me. I love it on my bigger machines however. In fact, telemetry very likely save my one big turbine last weekend when I started getting a low RX battery alarm only 2 minutes into the flight. Turns out one cell in the fully charged 2S LiFe RX battery was starting to cave (faulty - super high internal resistance) but there was enough voltage to get it safely back on the ground. Anyway, back to the M1. I should point out you can use pitch curves with the OMP protocol on it or the M2's to have different collective ranges in the three flight modes so you do have that flexibility. The only limitation is you have to stay within the preset collective ranges in the 3 different flight modes. For example, in normal mode, the M1's preset collective range is about -3 to +9 with a full linear pitch curve (going from memory here so don't take those exact numbers as gospel, but you get the idea). So you could use any pitch curve you want to create a customized collective range within that -3 to +9 window. If you wanted a super tame +2 to +7 learning to hover range for example, you could certainly use a pitch curve to create it since it's within that -3 to +9 factory set range. Yes, you are confined to their 3 governed head speeds - no way around that. I actually find them just about perfect for my flying style so it's no a limitation at all, but again that is personal preference.
@@Rchelicopterfun What a superb and in depth reply - thanks - I should have said that I am using the Eachine TX16S so have OpenTX options open to me. I guess if I go for the OMP version and aren't happy with it I can add a Jumper or similar sbus receiver or simlar and then program it like I would with the S-FHSS version. Right, thanks again, I know what to ask Santa for now :-)
You didn't see it because this is a heli review video, NOT a computerized radio/collective pitch heli setup video! I'm not going to re-cover the obvious precautionary steps taken to ensure the rotors don't spool during the initial setup. I've already done that before, including the video on OMP protocol/radio setup. I even took the time to specifically mention that OMP setup video, linked to it in a card, and linked to it in the description of this M1 review video. ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html This video would have been over an hour long if I included all those same steps again.
Did you use the model set up that you created for the M2? I have been using TJ’s Internal RX M2 model and I am struggling to control the M1. He doesn’t have dual rates or curves set up.
Great John, you made me purchase the M1 as well. Great little flyer. Is it possible to bind the very same heli to the same radio with two different setups? So I’m having 2 models for to choose from. Or should the 1st model be unbound first?
Most computerized radios allow at least 2 and now most have 3 flight modes to select 2 or 3 different pitch & throttle curve combinations along with different dual rates (2 or 3) for cyclic & tail, so there is no practical reason I can think of to have two different models. You can have a super tame setup in one flight mode, a normal or sport in the other, and an aerobatic in the 3rd. If you did for some reason want to create a second model for even more setup options, then yes, that is certainly doable as well - overly complicated, but doable.
The thing is that I’m a fairly beginner and I’m only getting 3 minutes per flight due to my setup contains 3 idle up modes. I just installed a setup from an experienced pilot and I’m not sure how to setup one of them to be a “normal” mode where the flight time is like 6-8 minutes.
You are never going to get 8 minutes flight time on the M1. You might get as high as 6 with the lowest governed head speed selection with very tame flying, but I'm sure you'll be drawing the pack lower than an 80% discharged state (bad and damaging for a LiPo). 5:00 to 6:00 is about the longest I can get in the lowest governed head speed selection while staying above that critical 80% discharged number depending on how I'm flying & the pack I'm using. If you are using OMP's protocol, you only get idle up possibilities (low speed, medium speed & high speed). So if you are only getting 3 minutes regardless of flight mode, then whatever setup has been used is most likely giving the highest head speed regardless of mode selection - scary for a beginner! If you are a beginner, use a tame learning to fly setup with the lowest headspeed selection (in all modes if you wish - you don't have use all 3 governed speeds if you don't want to). Using an experienced pilot's setup is doing you absolutely ZERO favors the same way it wouldn't do you any favors to learn to ski on a double black or first learn how to drive in a hyper performance sports car :) If you are unsure how to go about doing all that, here are 5 useful resources I have that should help: 1. How OMP protocol is configured on an OpenTX radio with multi-protocol: ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html 2. How to throttle off at low stick if you want to keep using OMP's protocol - throttling off at low stick is very important when first learning to fly CP: ua-cam.com/video/xfNdUKCKWc0/v-deo.html 3. My basic CP heli setup with an OpenTX radio: ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html 4. My eBook on collective pitch setup for self learning & progressing on: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html 5. My website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/
John, I started the learning curve with an Eachine e129 and have been thinking about moving on to a collective bird. I really liked the Trex 150 but was put off by the very short battery endurance. I like the look of the M1 very much but how good is battery life?
BNF only. You can of course purchase OMP's simple T6 radio for around $50USD, but will still have to bind the heli to it; and the T6 is not a computerized radio so that greatly limits setup capabilities. In general, the type of RC heli flyer who gets this heli already has a good computerized radio to bind it too after all since it's not considered a beginner/1st heli.
Hi John How do a adjust pitch degree because this is my second M1 and with this one I need almost 80% throttle before the heli will take off. It was only like 60 on my previous. Or what could the reason be? It got the exact same inputs from my transmitter.
You first have to setup your collective range correctly. This includes setting the collective output at both low & high plus centering the output so you have a symmetrical collective range (-12 to +12 with 0 at center). You then have to setup your pitch curves (specific collective pitch angles) for your flying style/s in your different flight modes. In short, nothing different from setting up any collective pitch RC helicopter :)
John first off thank you for your videos. I have used them to learn the K110 and flying collective pitch. I am going to invest in an M1 as my second heli. Would you recommend the OMP protocol or the S-FHSS in a second heli?
Depends if you are happy with the 3 governed head speeds OMP protocol selects and the reduced collective range in normal flight mode. I certainly have no issues using the OMP protocol. The head speeds are close to what I normally fly with in my 3 flight modes and I can alter the pitch curves enough in each flight mode to get my usual collective ranges in all 3 as well.
I have page on RC chargers on my website with various recommendations based on budget: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-chargers.html About 2/3 rds of the way down that page, where I start into the recommendations, there is a good little 4 button computerized RC charger that is both AC & DC powered for around $45 USD.
Hello John. Quick question on blade tightness. You mentioned on your site that blades should sit tight enough so when you shake a heli vertically, they would fall. So I did as you recommended, but when I start electric motor, blades start to swing different directions until the rotor speeds up to find their CG. How come on videos of Trex 500 flying, when guys spool up, their blades dont swing around, even on professional guys videos? Does it mean they have their blade bolts having tighter setup or it means my bolts are too loose?
Not sure which page on my site you are referencing but if it's day 1 of my flight school page where I talk about blade bolt torque/tightness, what I actually say is blade bolt torque is directly proportional to blade mass. The larger the heli, the tighter the blade bolts have to be and vise versa for smaller blade mass, the looser they have to be. Again, this is covered in more detail along with the reasons why including a demo video on that day 1 flight school page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters-day1.html The M1 as a micro size heli needs very loose blades. Out of the box you likely found the blades were so loose, they just flopped around with very little blade grip resistance and that is exactly how loose they should be. Experiment - See what happen when you over tighten them - bad cyclic oscillations.
@@Rchelicopterfun John. Thanks for clear explanation. I generally have not noticed any differences, wheather I had bolts tighter or not. On trex 500, when blades come to full spinning (for me 70%) blades weigh so much at the tips that they overcome any reasonable tightness and find their balance.
I'm referencing a tame/beginner learning to fly setup. Tame pitch & throttle curve, dual & expo rates. Exactly as I show in my collective pitch setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
I am so new to OpenTX that I am not sure how to create it all on my own. I will have to buy your e-book after the end of the month if I have some extra cash. Is there a way to copy a model set up on multy module.org?
Hi John. How come that it differs from time to time whether my swashplate is level in stabilized mode and not? At one flight it is perfectly fine and level and in another flight it’s completely opposite. I haven’t crashed or anything. How come that if varies so extreme without any changes applied?
I would have to see the behavior in person to understand exactly what is happening. Sound's like normal gyro feedback induced movement, but without seeing it first hand, that is just a guess.
Depends what your definition of "beginner" is and how you are learning (instructor or self-taught). If you've never setup or flown a collective pitch RC helicopter before, and are self learning, my opinion is the M1 or the M2 are both too advanced for most beginners first collective pitch RC helicopter. They (the M1 & M2) can certainly be tamed down into excellent collective pitch trainers and have more than enough power to lift training gear so no issue there.
Hi John! We've spoken before and I could use your help again! I just took my m1 outside for the first time! It was great, but whenever I tried to go into flight mode 1 or 2 the heli goes straight down, even if I give it more throttle it will just sit there on the ground idling really fast. I'm assuming the settings on my TX16 aren't correct but I have the correct protocol so I'm not sure why it's not working. Thanks in advance!
You have to check and set your pitch curves in your different flight modes. It's likely going straight down because the collective goes negative the instant you change flight modes.
@@Rchelicopterfun What are your pitch curves set to, if you don't mind me asking? I don't have any set which might explain my problem but I'm unsure what to set my curves to, as there aren't many videos on this subject of the M1
Hey John just got my M1 in the mail. It's flying great but I hear a buzzing noise when I am at a hover. Doesn't make this high pitch noise when I give it more or less throttle than just a hover. Is this normal? I'm thinking it's possibly a noisy bearing or were my expectations too high? Also they did reinforce the antenna in the factory 👍
No idea without hearing & testing it in person. Have you played around with different head speeds - blade resonance perhaps? The blades of course make a sweet noise as they beat the air into submission in a hover as the disc loading gets light - especially at lower head speeds, but all these little collective pitch helis make that similar hover transition blade noise under light loading. It's more apparent on the M1, M2's, Goblin Mini Comet, etc. due to the very quiet direct drive main motors so maybe you are just hearing that blade noise more due to lack of gear whine. I'm of course not OMP tech support so what do I know. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for the feedback. I'll send a video to support and see what happens. Still I'm really impressed with how precise and smooth it flys. 🚁
Great video. Thanks! Do you know the precise size of the hex driver that came with your kit? Is it 1mm or slightly larger? My kit (and apparently others) did not include the driver. If it's 1mm, I've yet to find one to purchase anywhere. Thank you again.
The hex driver I got with my M1 is 1.0 mm measured on the flats with a digital caliper. The "precise size" was 0.99mm to 1.01 mm depending on which set of flats I measured across on so I think it's fairly safe to say it's a 1.0mm hex. 1.0mm hex drivers are generally used in the medical field so yes, it's an odd size for hobby use. Maybe a 0.9mm hex driver would work, but the only way to know would be to ask the source - OMP Hobby. I don't have a 0.9mm hex driver to try, my next closest size is a 1.3mm used on the T-Rex 150 and it's definitely too big.
I'm very concerned. I received my M1 with two extra batteries, but have scoured the Internet for a 1mm hex driver and found virtually nothing. I'll have to return it if I can't repair it after a crash. I'm at a loss for how others are completing repairs.
As I said in my first reply, I have no idea about the 0.9 as I don't have one. I also said 1.3 which I do have (almost the same as 1.27) is too big. Again, ask the source OMP Hobby / Buddy RC.
Thank you John for another great review. I’m in the market to get a new micro helicopter to replace my old XK K110. I’ve been looking at the Eachine E160 which per your review appears to be a good micro heli as well. The M1 is a lot more expensive than the E160. In your opinion how do they compare and if M1 is a better heli, is it worth the extra cost. Thank you.
No question the M1 is a better machine; in quality, design, performance, and that amazing flight fluidity. And let's not forget the direct drive main motor which is the single largest reason for the price difference. Efficient, quiet, comes down cool, and no main gear to strip out or pinion gear to come loose. Is the M1 worth the extra $70 for all that? Only you can decide if it is. The overall value of the E160 is after all hard to beat and it's not a brand new model either which means parts support is better (for a month or so anyway).
@David Elhami After going through 2 E160's, I say just go with the M1. I've had the gyro just switch off stabilization on its own, tail twitches sometimes, you can't go back into auto-level without landing the E160. Replacing the tail boom is a bad time because the tail wiring adapter doesn't fit through the tail boom. The main gears get damaged easily. One bad tooth and the heli becomes much louder. I have the M1 pre-ordered and I already know its going to be all around better.
Are you already a skilled pilot? My K110 takes a severe beating from my mistakes and it keeps going. This helicopter looks really nice, but probably a bad idea for me to buy it now.
@@ian1352 The k110 is very good to learn on. It has some issues, weak tail boom, the main gear will loosen from the main shaft as soon as you crash into the ground without cutting throttle. The tail motor doesn't have enough power to turn when I throw it around but I'd still recommend it because of cost.
Hi John. Please can you tell me how do I calibrate the gyro so the stable mode IS stable? So the swash plate is straight? Because in my stable mode, the swashplate tilts. 😅
Sorry, no idea as I never fly mine in auto level mode so I've never looked into the process. With that said, does yours actually drift in self level mode or are you only assuming it will drift due to a slight swashplate tilt when you switch into self level mode? If it's the latter, you may want to fly it first to see if there actually is a drift because a slight tilt of the swash is very normal when switching into self level to compensate for the left tail rotor translating tendency (LTRTT).
It's a BNF (bind & fly) model so no radio. It requires a 6 or more channel computerized radio with collective pitch RC helicopter programming (pretty much all modern day computerized radio's have heli programming). The M1 works with their internal OMP or Futaba S-FHSS protocol receiver, or you can use an external micro Spektrum DSM2/X or S-Bus receiver.
Very difficult to diagnose issues like this remotely without seeing your setup in person and the helicopter - I don't even know what radio system you are using. Stabilization mode is selected through channel 5 output, so you will have to figure out why your channel 5 output is not changing depending on how you have it configured. In future, please direct technical questions like this to me through my website, as I only see a fraction of the comments on videos.
Wow! Never seen anything like it. The maneuverability, semi-frighteningly incredible. ( I'd like to see a life-sized one. ( ... w/ the pilot operating the "RC" while inside of it, in the cockpit. ( That'd be ridiculous. )
I presume you mean a fixed pitch heli over a collective pitch? Collective pitch helicopters need not be setup for 3D flying. You can setup them up for trainer, normal, or scale type flying for example. The M1 like most CP helicopters, can be a very docile flying little machine with the correct setup. Regardless, best to contact me through my website ( www.rchelicopterfun.com ) as UA-cam comments make for a poor communication exchange medium on topics such as heli selection & recommendations that generally require follow up questions/answers.
I'm not a flysky user so I have no idea if it will work or not. As I state in the video, the M1 will bind to Futaba S-FHSS, Spektrum DSM, and OMP protocols only. Only those 3 and out of those 3, if you want linear throttle response and linear collective output, you need to use either S-FHSS or DSM protocol. OMP protocol defaults to the built in governor and alters collective range.
If you are referencing the XK X6, then yes, it uses S-FHSS protocol so it will bind to an M1; provided of course you get the S-FHSS version of the M1 or get the OMP protocol version with a separate OMP S-FHSS micro receiver.
Good review. Sadly I can't get Omp batteries posted to me so I won't be buying this Heli. I have the M2 but buying batteries that fit and can be delivered to me is proving impossible. It's a bad idea for omp to limit battery size like that. It's a pity. A very negative selling point.
I'm sure there will be several aftermarket packs once the M1 gets established like there are for the M2 now. And who knows what is currently out there that will fit? Have you looked? I haven't had the time to look and size what 2S 300 to 400 mah packs are already out there with those dimensions or a little smaller. I actually found some smaller Nanotech 300 mAh 2S packs that I have and flew the M1 with them this morning. They fit fine (with a piece of foam to take up the space), but the flight times are shorter. Still, it's giving me more flying time until I can source some others.
Same problem here. Locally I can find a 650mAh that's 5mm longer, but slightly lower width and height. There's a 750mAh that is the right length, 0.5mm higher and 3mm wider. So nothing that would be just right for the M2. Previous experience tells me I'd have to modify the holder to take whatever is available. Looks like the same will apply to the M1.
Presume you are running OMP's protocol? If so, the only thing that comes to mind is you need to adjust your frequency fine tune value. Default is 0, but the range is about -125 to +125. I cover that tuning process in my updating to OMP protocol video: ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Figured out the problem! I found a little more information on the m1's protocol and for my version I needed to use SFHSS in MUTIL not OMP. I don't quite understand why it wouldn't be OMP's protocol but if you could explain, that would be helpful! :)
Glad you got it sorted. There are two version of the M1 now as I mention in the description. One with a built in OMP RX and one with a built in S-FHSS RX. You must have ordered S-FHSS version 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Yeah I just found out! I've been learning a lot about it and when I ordered mine I didn't know a whole lot about the protocols! Thank you for helping me out I appreciate it very much! :)
What did I learn? If I buy an OMP Hobby M1, the chances of me ever getting it into the air is basically zero. No instructions, can't charge the battery, have to take a course in setting it up, have to take a course in operating the radio, need to buy tools, etc.
Well... I started again at the beginning of the year... thanx to the lockdown (in France our second one....) 🤔 I had to learn everything and all the video from John Salt were full of very useful information I would say ... start with a very simple one, like the e119... then the XK K110 ... and then you can try something as complex as the OMP thing For the record I built my first complete kit , an ALZRC 380 few time ago and thanx to John Salt video and it’s ebook... the maiden flight was perfect Go also to a forum like Heli freak or RC Group a ton of help there
@RS Nekmes - Congratulations partner, you just described the fun, fascinating, educational and engaging learning curve of what the hobby of building, maintaining, and flying collective pitch RC helicopters is all about. Glad I was able to give you the 1000 foot view of the hobby in a single 25 minute long video.
While it seems daunting and the learning curve is steep, it's so rewarding. Don't be discouraged, but start smaller. It's safer and cheaper to learn CP on a Simulator and a Nano S2 or something like it. This part of the rc hobby isn't for everyone though. Coaxial helis are super fun and much easier for real beginners.
Get something like the XK k110 to learn on. It flies well and can take a lot of abuse. I know because we've slammed ours hard into trees, walls and the ground. I've only had to replace the main blades once, the tail rotor a couple of times, the tail motor once and the plastic gear a couple of times. That might sound bad, but it took many serious crashes to do the damage. The parts that wear out or break are also not too expensive. I know everyone recommends using a simulator, but I didn't find it improved my flying of the real helicopter much, if at all. Flying the real thing instead improved my skill in the simulator. Somehow for me the simulator is in some way detached.
I wish I understood setting these ccpm helis up the way you do!! I can build them and fly them but going into my spektrum radio and knowing how and what to set up has been my downfall in this hobby. I've got several helis and none of which I had anything to do with the setup. I have a blade 550x that I love to fly but if I wreck it, I'm screwed because the guy that set it up for me lives up north and I'm in the south . Me not being able to wrap my brain around how to set these things up after build almost makes me not want to even mess with them but I just love so much to fly them. It's very frustrating and disheartening to not understand all that goes into setting one of these up. I've watched a lot of the videos on UA-cam and when it comes to understanding pitch of throttle, blade and how much and why, I'm lost or high and low rates how much and why I'm lost. There are so many things to setup in the radio just to get this little guy in the air , it's pretty much a hopeless situation. I want this heli but the last thing I need is another heli to sit around because I don't understand how to set it up.
@blackhawktim 12 : I do have an e-book that covers collective pitch setup & addresses your frustrations head on. It's based on my 3 decades in the hobby & instructing: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
@@Rchelicopterfun I appreciate the offer but I'm afraid it would be like the videos I watched on UA-cam explaining how to set these up. For whatever reason I couldn't wrap my brain around what they were saying and I'm sure reading it in a book might not be any different. Unfortunately I think I'm one of "THOSE" people that has to have certain things explained in layman terms. LOL I'm afraid what I probably need is someone who knows this stuff the way you do to sit down with me and go through both electric and glow setup procedures that I could use with any heli, that way no matter what heli I had I could be confident in the setup but there isn't anyone near me who can do that so I'm just stuck not grasping the concept. I may try it though, thanks.
LOLOL There are much better ways to get a shave. Awesome video as always John.
Hehe - you got that right. Mowing the lawn with a bird is one thing; giving the wife a new doo is on an order of magnitude more risky. Glad you got a little laugh out of it. Thanks again! 👍
@@Rchelicopterfun Hey I mean it's a way to save money on salon appointments haha
This comment made no sense until I watched the whole video 😂 soooo close !
LOL
I actually accidentally, trimmed some face hair in a live show at a mall kiosk, with the Syma F3 fixed pitched and everyone thought it was on purpose and a joke in 2012.
21:29 Controller says SHIT IS ABOUT TO GET REAL 😂
I just got mine last week and loving it :) Thanks to Johns advice I am making some progress!
Enjoy 🙂
Im not the brightest bulb in next months Tree but its also amazing that none of the others top Manufacturers, have jumped on direct drive wagon. ? Nice lil Chopper, Thanks for your time & stay warm.
Yep, you have to wonder if more will start. It's of course a more costly method, but it sure works a treat. Your bulb is shinning bright in my books 🙂
I think all we have is the goblin fireball. But the belt still runs off the motor. That new logo, and it's very expensive and sold out also.
Such a cool little bird. Camera Op has ice-water in their veins. Thanks for your review!
Her ice is the result of being married to me for 25 years 😀
I forgot, I vote for the tutorial to build my own balanced board for this kind of battery
Thanx in advance !
I didn't check to see Who made the video… But instantly I knew it was you John… I left a review earlier tonight and basically the same review again you are freaking awesome… Never have I seen such a wonderful reviews flying the whole 9 yards… The manufacturer couldn't do as good as you are. This helicopter does look nice I said I wouldn't buy the last one I commented on but this one looks really cool. Actually I did see it about a week ago surfing the net and I noticed the direct drive motor and I said wow. And then after hearing you I believe this is a good machine. But your reviews man Are they incredible
🙂👍
The best of thé best micro heli performance is crazy
Just got my first M2 after a few years away. Been brushing up with Blade NANO CPX but the M1 looks like it will be in my hangar soon
@Peter Ede Glad to hear you are flying RC eggbeaters after a short hiatus. If you like the performance & feel of your M2, you'll probably really like the M1 as well. It's one of the best yard flyers to practice on IMO.
Another great and very detailed review John! Looking forward to getting mine.
Hope you enjoy your M1 too.
Brilliant video as always John ! I used to fly over 10years ago. I have the M2V1 and have purchased the newer controller that goes in the M2V2 ( more adjustments) , cant wait to get this little M1 rocks ! I have downloaded all your e-books - going through all the basics again and have learned a few new things and corrected a few bad habits on my setups ! Thank you ! Cheers from Waterloo Ontario Canada !
Best review I'm sold !!!!!!
As always very nice review with a lot of information... thanx
Mine is ore-ordered for some time already... I love OMP products :)
Enjoy it.
Awesome video, thanks!
Great review. You have helped me immensely progress in this hobby. Lot of snow already!!!
Next after my intro Blade70s. Helpful, inspiring review - as always😊
@Kathleen Dircks - have fun with it - great little heli 🙂
Almost got a haircut there....cool clip I bought one did 4 flights today...spot on
Glad you are enjoying yours too. Amazing little helicopter!
@@Rchelicopterfun out of the hobby 5 years has gaui x3 last bird. ..I have dx6e but haven't got mini receiver to add on to it so just using the omp non-comouterized T6..is it a pain to convert over mounting little receiver....what do you do with all the extra wire without cutting and soldering...is there one I can buy dsmx with a short lead
Not sure about shorter Sat RX harnesses, I've honestly never looked for one. Must be some out there I would think for all those flying tiny quad-copters with DSM2/X sats. Myself on a micro that needs a very short sat RX harness, I would either cut the harness to length and hard solder the one end direct to the receiver board to eliminate a failure prone connector & reduce the weight a bit. Another option I would also consider is to make my own custom length harness with JST ZH plugs but you need the correct crimp tool for that and working on those tiny plugs & pins is a total PIA (at least I find them to be). There are also a plethora of aftermarket DSM2 & DSMX micro RX's on the market that you can solder any length of harness to or perhaps come with a harness already soldered on.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks John!
@@Rchelicopterfun I had a dx6i years ago...aobwentbout for dx6e and now I'm overwhelmed and may just return it...it's so complicated for my M1...maybe since I'm just a sport flyer mild 3D back in the day, I should just use the T6 which came with it....ugg
Hi john sir i am big fan of you..and i very love m2 rc copter..
🙂👍
gorgeous little thing
Good review John. My 130X and 180CFX are suddenly looking a bit long in the tooth, even though they still work very well with the mods I've done on them. Tempting though...($320 CAD hmmmn.)
Yep, our good old Loonie certainly causes a moment of pause in any purchase decision lately.
Nice flying.
I just bought a Blade 150S -------------------> Damnit!!1
Nice video beautiful helicopter
This is awesome! i love my m2, but now i want an m1! lol
Great review damn good pilot good job
Looks like some salt and pepper flying.great.
top work mate, great review. have linked you to the RCG M1 page
Thanks for this review. Very good explanation and detail of this helicopter. Simple question, how long to fly in normal or scale mode.
Greetings from Quebec, Canada.
I cover flight times in the review for various setups - guess you missed that part.
Looks cool and love the little size of it awsome T rex looks cool though
Yep, I find these 120 to 130 size micros in the "sweat spot" size wise for at home practice in the average size yard. Not too small that you can't see them, yet not too big that your can't stretch their wings (rotors).
The M1 is the best bird that I have flown period. Nothing has come close to the fluid feel of the M1, I mean I tell it to fly along nice and slow and it just does it. Other birds it's like you tap the cyclic too hard and it just gets going and it quickly spirals out of control and trying to stop it is like trying to stop a speeding train.
This is my dream...
Are those calipers calibrated sir? Ha ha great video.
Just a "heads up" John, I received my M1 last week and they have done away with the wire antenna and are using a trace on the circuit board now. "No glue required" lol.
Good to know.
Yeah just order mine omphobby m1 helicopter. I'm going to do some changes like my omphobby m2 explore helicopter can wait
Having to use their batteries would make it tricky. I've already had to modify my K110 so that I can use the batteries that are available locally due to difficulty getting lithium batteries shipped.
John, Great Video!! With both the M1 and the M2, am I correct in thinking that if you use the OMP radio protocol you are restricted to the three headspeeds they specify, but if you use either DSM2/DSMX or S-BUS you can set the headspeeds to your own liking with the usual flat throttle curves for Idle up, 1,2,3? (I don't use Normal mode anymore) Thanks!
Yes
MN native here love the winter flying! Should I get rid of the spektrum sat rx and use OMP protocol for the 16s max? I have the latest M1 and M2, both have OMP protocol.
Depends on you & what you consider more important. Weight savings and telemetry (with the built-in OMP RX) at the expensive of losing fine throttle control (3 fixed governed head speeds only with the OMP RX). I cover that in the OMP Protocol and Telemetry videos:
- ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html
- ua-cam.com/video/_bW5aZ6LvhY/v-deo.html
Personally on the MI, I most certainly did not want to add the extra weight of a Spektrum sat RX and I use the the internal OMP RX. M2's however, you barely notice the extra weight. I run all 3 of my M2's now however with the internal RX now, Their 3 governed head speeds are pretty much the same head speeds I was running before with flat line throttle curves with the external RX's.
I've been considering getting a M1 to compliment my M2 Explore, After watching this video several times, yesterday I ordered one from Buddy RC. Thanks for another great YT John! I hope that OMP and Buddy RC compensate you for your thorough reviews of their products. PS I just ordered and downloaded your RC Helicopter Tips & Setup eBook, something that I should have done a long time ago.
@ChickenHawk841 - Enjoy your M1. It's by far my favorite yard flyer to date. Thanks very much for the eBook patronage. Happy Flights! 👍
Do have the mapping of this heli on Tx 16 available for sale!!! I have rtf version don’t care for the transmitter, I have a Tx 16 but don’t know a thing about programming a heli, just jump in after 20 years of flying rc fixed wing…
Thank you in advance!
I cover OMP mapping in the OMP Protocol/OpenTX Video: ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html
Mapping is also shown & explained on Multi-Module's website (a must bookmark site for all Multi-Module users) on their OMP Protocol page: www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/protocol-details/omp
Another OMP protocol video of interest you may find useful is this one I made that shows how to create a logical switch function if you want to throttle off of low stick in one or more flight modes: ua-cam.com/video/xfNdUKCKWc0/v-deo.html
Also have an Open/EdgeTX for collective pitch RC helicopters video: ua-cam.com/video/XdFOndPG7xo/v-deo.html
Nice thinking about getting back into cp helis. This might be the one to get. Charge harness video would be awesome. Would like to use my charger I use with my quad batteries
In future i purchase it.m2
Sorry to bother after so long. I have a brand new M1, the SFHSS version only, and mimicked your binding procedure with complete success. But what about subsequent binds: does one have to take the canopy out just to press the bind switch for 3 secs? Hard to believe ...
Once you bind an RX to the TX it's bound and saved.
Haven't flown my yet
Fantastic video. Almost like being in a hobby shop only better because you know what you’re talking about. If I could only afford one… The M2 or the M1… Which one would you recommend for a novice pilot?
Depends on your flying area. The M2 needs more space, the M1 is well suited to average size yards. Neither is really a "novice" heli, unless you've already setup & flown collective pitch helicopters before.
As a complete novice I have taught myself to fly indoors straight to CP with an XK K110 and X6 using John’s videos and techniques from www.rchelicopterfun.com
I’m trying to decide whether to progress to an M1 or M2 Explore as my next heli - but I wholeheartedly recommend the K110 for first timers as you can literally bounce it off things and it just keeps coming back for more!
How much max current does the M1 draw at high head speed and pitch? There is no ESC rating anywere. 3 min Flight works out to about 7 Amp average. So lets say 10A on a pitch pump?
No idea - never measured it, don't have the equipment to measure it. Best to contact OMPHobby.
I've been in and out of the heli rc world since 1984, my first helicopter being the GMP Cobra. Lately I've been a bit confused about the practice of powering up the helicopter before the transmitter: Is there no chance of the heli doing something on its own before it is slaved to a transmitter?
dave
The standard practice with today's spread spectrum RF RC radio equipment is to still always power up the TX before the RX. Generally, the only time you would ever deviate from that sequence is when you have to put some RX's into special operational modes where they might have to get powered up first - such as binding. Regardless, it's extremely unlikely (impossible actually) a spread spectrum RX would send a throttle signal if powered on first as they are micro-processor controlled and only interpret digital coded RF signals that are also frequency hopping in a specific and timed sequence. There is, for all intents & purposes, no chance of some stray RF source causing a throttle glitch in other words.
Great review, they seem to be sold out, can not even preorder now? I don't have a micro, I'm flying an Align Trex 550 and 450. So get this M1 when available or the Align 150?
Will the XK X6(from HK k110 helicopter) remote control fit this helicopter?
Great review. Could a ExpressLRS RX be used with this heli?
No idea, likely not.
Got my M1 this week, had to center the servos, they were way out, Flys good now. Tried the auto level but it drifts horribly.
Nice to see! But why isn’t there a adapter to charge like it was said at rcgroups? They changed the spare parts multiple times, from clear blades to the screw drives, and they also talked about a charging adapter...
No idea other than this being the first small batch of M1's that was sent out, so there may be changes in what they ship with. We or any forum thread can't assume what the finalized bag of goodies will include - that is entirely up to the manufacturer and their supply chain. It's easy to build one however and I think many of us in the hobby already have something that will work. Even a JST-XH balance or para board could easily be adapted to work; but I agree, including a simple charge harness is likely a good call. Knowing how OMP listens to their customers, I'm sure it will be addressed.
Amazing, I agree but nowhere to be found!
New model release right before Christmas = none to be found.
Received mine today, heli is awesome! But I screw-drivers weren’t included
Nice vid. Battery is a deal breaker for me.
It shouldn't be. It's high quality and provides great performance at a reasonable cost. What more could you ask for?
Is it set up out of the box, or do you have to level the swash and set all the flybarless up before first flight, dont know if I can be bothered with that all again, just finished doing my trex 500 and a hurricane 200, +1 vote to build my own balance board too, im surprised it doesnt come with one, the M2 does.
As I show & demonstrate in the video, the M1 like the M2 comes out of the box setup mechanically well with the FBL system set at mid values which I find very good. You of course still have to set the heli up in your radio for your flying style, pitch/throttle curves, dual/expo rates - etc. I link the charge harness build video in the description, but here it is again: ua-cam.com/video/fpSLCf_epk4/v-deo.html
M1 or M2 if I want to get into 3D helicopters? Or should I start with something else?
@Prindle. I cover this question in detail on my Best RC Helicopter page on my site:
www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html
Pros, Cons, Compromises, etc. Primary consideration is of course the size of your flying area.
@@Rchelicopterfun I will check that out, thanks!
So we are now 2 years later, would you take an M1 today?
First heli for me, I flew sail planes real and rc, I am now retired, I want something I can growth with (not a toy) and for me quality of construction and material is important also realism in flying.
What would you say is the best quality rc heli in that size (more or less) today?
Would you buy a used rc heli? Ever?
Should I go to an M2 instead?
Thank you!
a.
Pretty much cover these questions in detail on my best RC helicopter page on my site: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html
As for the M1, I would absolutely get it again as it's my favorite small helicopter of all time for practicing in my size of yard: ua-cam.com/video/BWnC5gKedeg/v-deo.html
Best size will be totally dependent on your flying environment as covered on that best RC helicopter page.
@@Rchelicopterfun
Great, thank you.
Sorry for asking.
Did you ever change the factory settings off of 5 after flying the M1. I just started using you M2 model set up, but have really only flying in low rates. I crashed too many times using Jonas’s model setup. Lol
I like it with the mid point 5 across the board.
John - great information in your videos as always - thanks. I am looking at something more robust that my XK K110 to learn on so thinking of the M1. Would I be better getting the S-FHSS version to allow great choice in setup and curves or is the telemetry available in the OMP protocol of more value? Thanks, Mark
@modellermark2 - That really depends on the person and what you deem most important - more setup flexibility or having telemetry. Of course also assuming you have both protocols on the specific radio/s you are flying with naturally.
Personally, I feel telemetry on small little helicopters is more or less a lost feature, but that is just me. I love it on my bigger machines however. In fact, telemetry very likely save my one big turbine last weekend when I started getting a low RX battery alarm only 2 minutes into the flight. Turns out one cell in the fully charged 2S LiFe RX battery was starting to cave (faulty - super high internal resistance) but there was enough voltage to get it safely back on the ground.
Anyway, back to the M1. I should point out you can use pitch curves with the OMP protocol on it or the M2's to have different collective ranges in the three flight modes so you do have that flexibility. The only limitation is you have to stay within the preset collective ranges in the 3 different flight modes.
For example, in normal mode, the M1's preset collective range is about -3 to +9 with a full linear pitch curve (going from memory here so don't take those exact numbers as gospel, but you get the idea). So you could use any pitch curve you want to create a customized collective range within that -3 to +9 window. If you wanted a super tame +2 to +7 learning to hover range for example, you could certainly use a pitch curve to create it since it's within that -3 to +9 factory set range.
Yes, you are confined to their 3 governed head speeds - no way around that. I actually find them just about perfect for my flying style so it's no a limitation at all, but again that is personal preference.
@@Rchelicopterfun What a superb and in depth reply - thanks - I should have said that I am using the Eachine TX16S so have OpenTX options open to me. I guess if I go for the OMP version and aren't happy with it I can add a Jumper or similar sbus receiver or simlar and then program it like I would with the S-FHSS version. Right, thanks again, I know what to ask Santa for now :-)
Nice review. Still, I feel nervous seeing any radio setup with the BLADES ON! :-(
You didn't see it because this is a heli review video, NOT a computerized radio/collective pitch heli setup video! I'm not going to re-cover the obvious precautionary steps taken to ensure the rotors don't spool during the initial setup.
I've already done that before, including the video on OMP protocol/radio setup. I even took the time to specifically mention that OMP setup video, linked to it in a card, and linked to it in the description of this M1 review video. ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html
This video would have been over an hour long if I included all those same steps again.
Did you use the model set up that you created for the M2? I have been using TJ’s Internal RX M2 model and I am struggling to control the M1. He doesn’t have dual rates or curves set up.
I go over my OpenTX heli template seutp in this video: ua-cam.com/video/XdFOndPG7xo/v-deo.html
Great John, you made me purchase the M1 as well. Great little flyer. Is it possible to bind the very same heli to the same radio with two different setups?
So I’m having 2 models for to choose from. Or should the 1st model be unbound first?
Most computerized radios allow at least 2 and now most have 3 flight modes to select 2 or 3 different pitch & throttle curve combinations along with different dual rates (2 or 3) for cyclic & tail, so there is no practical reason I can think of to have two different models. You can have a super tame setup in one flight mode, a normal or sport in the other, and an aerobatic in the 3rd. If you did for some reason want to create a second model for even more setup options, then yes, that is certainly doable as well - overly complicated, but doable.
The thing is that I’m a fairly beginner and I’m only getting 3 minutes per flight due to my setup contains 3 idle up modes. I just installed a setup from an experienced pilot and I’m not sure how to setup one of them to be a “normal” mode where the flight time is like 6-8 minutes.
You are never going to get 8 minutes flight time on the M1. You might get as high as 6 with the lowest governed head speed selection with very tame flying, but I'm sure you'll be drawing the pack lower than an 80% discharged state (bad and damaging for a LiPo). 5:00 to 6:00 is about the longest I can get in the lowest governed head speed selection while staying above that critical 80% discharged number depending on how I'm flying & the pack I'm using. If you are using OMP's protocol, you only get idle up possibilities (low speed, medium speed & high speed). So if you are only getting 3 minutes regardless of flight mode, then whatever setup has been used is most likely giving the highest head speed regardless of mode selection - scary for a beginner!
If you are a beginner, use a tame learning to fly setup with the lowest headspeed selection (in all modes if you wish - you don't have use all 3 governed speeds if you don't want to). Using an experienced pilot's setup is doing you absolutely ZERO favors the same way it wouldn't do you any favors to learn to ski on a double black or first learn how to drive in a hyper performance sports car :)
If you are unsure how to go about doing all that, here are 5 useful resources I have that should help:
1. How OMP protocol is configured on an OpenTX radio with multi-protocol: ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html
2. How to throttle off at low stick if you want to keep using OMP's protocol - throttling off at low stick is very important when first learning to fly CP: ua-cam.com/video/xfNdUKCKWc0/v-deo.html
3. My basic CP heli setup with an OpenTX radio: ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
4. My eBook on collective pitch setup for self learning & progressing on: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
5. My website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/
Thank you so much for this very comprehensive reply with tips. I’ll check all the links out. Happy flying 😀😀
Are they making and M1 Explore ?
John, I started the learning curve with an Eachine e129 and have been thinking about moving on to a collective bird. I really liked the Trex 150 but was put off by the very short battery endurance. I like the look of the M1 very much but how good is battery life?
I mention flying times for various flying styles in the video after the flight test.
Do they make this hell in a ready to fly version
BNF only. You can of course purchase OMP's simple T6 radio for around $50USD, but will still have to bind the heli to it; and the T6 is not a computerized radio so that greatly limits setup capabilities. In general, the type of RC heli flyer who gets this heli already has a good computerized radio to bind it too after all since it's not considered a beginner/1st heli.
Hi John
How do a adjust pitch degree because this is my second M1 and with this one I need almost 80% throttle before the heli will take off. It was only like 60 on my previous. Or what could the reason be? It got the exact same inputs from my transmitter.
You first have to setup your collective range correctly. This includes setting the collective output at both low & high plus centering the output so you have a symmetrical collective range (-12 to +12 with 0 at center).
You then have to setup your pitch curves (specific collective pitch angles) for your flying style/s in your different flight modes. In short, nothing different from setting up any collective pitch RC helicopter :)
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you do much for this helpful and fast reply.
Thanks for sharing your video,quick question if you don’t mind;is this micro heli sold in Amazon downhere in Europe?.
Thanks a lot
No idea; use your search engine.
John first off thank you for your videos. I have used them to learn the K110 and flying collective pitch. I am going to invest in an M1 as my second heli. Would you recommend the OMP protocol or the S-FHSS in a second heli?
Depends if you are happy with the 3 governed head speeds OMP protocol selects and the reduced collective range in normal flight mode. I certainly have no issues using the OMP protocol. The head speeds are close to what I normally fly with in my 3 flight modes and I can alter the pitch curves enough in each flight mode to get my usual collective ranges in all 3 as well.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John. And if needed I can add S-FHSS in the future as a external receiver.
does the futaba version work with an xk x6 (k110) transmitter? Thank you very much.
Yes.
my trex 150x is getting retired OMP M1 is taking over it align or way behind this
What charger do you recommend me to get?
I'm not looking to spend like £150 max 50
I have page on RC chargers on my website with various recommendations based on budget: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-chargers.html
About 2/3 rds of the way down that page, where I start into the recommendations, there is a good little 4 button computerized RC charger that is both AC & DC powered for around $45 USD.
hello .. is it more fragile than the M2 .. or more forgiving ? ..really suitable for external flying with wind ?
Smaller, less mass, less energy = less damage. Wind? It's a tiny helicopter so it's naturally a handful in strong wind.
Hello John. Quick question on blade tightness. You mentioned on your site that blades should sit tight enough so when you shake a heli vertically, they would fall. So I did as you recommended, but when I start electric motor, blades start to swing different directions until the rotor speeds up to find their CG. How come on videos of Trex 500 flying, when guys spool up, their blades dont swing around, even on professional guys videos? Does it mean they have their blade bolts having tighter setup or it means my bolts are too loose?
Not sure which page on my site you are referencing but if it's day 1 of my flight school page where I talk about blade bolt torque/tightness, what I actually say is blade bolt torque is directly proportional to blade mass. The larger the heli, the tighter the blade bolts have to be and vise versa for smaller blade mass, the looser they have to be. Again, this is covered in more detail along with the reasons why including a demo video on that day 1 flight school page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters-day1.html
The M1 as a micro size heli needs very loose blades. Out of the box you likely found the blades were so loose, they just flopped around with very little blade grip resistance and that is exactly how loose they should be. Experiment - See what happen when you over tighten them - bad cyclic oscillations.
@@Rchelicopterfun John. Thanks for clear explanation. I generally have not noticed any differences, wheather I had bolts tighter or not. On trex 500, when blades come to full spinning (for me 70%) blades weigh so much at the tips that they overcome any reasonable tightness and find their balance.
What about balancing tail blades? When I buy a new pair they seem to be fine considering their small weight. Some guys advice to balance them too.
I love my M1 and M2. I just suck at flying still. When you say tame mode, do you mean Normal mode and are you using the dual rates.
I'm referencing a tame/beginner learning to fly setup. Tame pitch & throttle curve, dual & expo rates. Exactly as I show in my collective pitch setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
I am so new to OpenTX that I am not sure how to create it all on my own. I will have to buy your e-book after the end of the month if I have some extra cash. Is there a way to copy a model set up on multy module.org?
hello, could you please tell me which of these omphobby helicopters can bind to omphobby t6 transmitter RTF or BNF very confused thanks.
Ones that state they use OMP protocol (what the OMP T6 TX uses).
@@Rchelicopterfun nice thanks.
Hi John. How come that it differs from time to time whether my swashplate is level in stabilized mode and not? At one flight it is perfectly fine and level and in another flight it’s completely opposite. I haven’t crashed or anything. How come that if varies so extreme without any changes applied?
I would have to see the behavior in person to understand exactly what is happening. Sound's like normal gyro feedback induced movement, but without seeing it first hand, that is just a guess.
Hi,
Very grateful for you. Is it for beginners?
Thank you
Depends what your definition of "beginner" is and how you are learning (instructor or self-taught). If you've never setup or flown a collective pitch RC helicopter before, and are self learning, my opinion is the M1 or the M2 are both too advanced for most beginners first collective pitch RC helicopter. They (the M1 & M2) can certainly be tamed down into excellent collective pitch trainers and have more than enough power to lift training gear so no issue there.
Looking forward to receive my M1, preordered it 6 Weeks ago. Looks as fun like my M2 is :-)
Have fun with it.
Hi John! We've spoken before and I could use your help again! I just took my m1 outside for the first time! It was great, but whenever I tried to go into flight mode 1 or 2 the heli goes straight down, even if I give it more throttle it will just sit there on the ground idling really fast. I'm assuming the settings on my TX16 aren't correct but I have the correct protocol so I'm not sure why it's not working. Thanks in advance!
You have to check and set your pitch curves in your different flight modes. It's likely going straight down because the collective goes negative the instant you change flight modes.
@@Rchelicopterfun What are your pitch curves set to, if you don't mind me asking? I don't have any set which might explain my problem but I'm unsure what to set my curves to, as there aren't many videos on this subject of the M1
All covered in my collective pitch setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Hey John just got my M1 in the mail. It's flying great but I hear a buzzing noise when I am at a hover. Doesn't make this high pitch noise when I give it more or less throttle than just a hover. Is this normal? I'm thinking it's possibly a noisy bearing or were my expectations too high?
Also they did reinforce the antenna in the factory 👍
No idea without hearing & testing it in person. Have you played around with different head speeds - blade resonance perhaps? The blades of course make a sweet noise as they beat the air into submission in a hover as the disc loading gets light - especially at lower head speeds, but all these little collective pitch helis make that similar hover transition blade noise under light loading. It's more apparent on the M1, M2's, Goblin Mini Comet, etc. due to the very quiet direct drive main motors so maybe you are just hearing that blade noise more due to lack of gear whine. I'm of course not OMP tech support so what do I know. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for the feedback. I'll send a video to support and see what happens. Still I'm really impressed with how precise and smooth it flys. 🚁
@@Rchelicopterfun Yeah I only hear this chirping noise in normal mode at the low head speed.
Great video. Thanks! Do you know the precise size of the hex driver that came with your kit? Is it 1mm or slightly larger? My kit (and apparently others) did not include the driver. If it's 1mm, I've yet to find one to purchase anywhere. Thank you again.
The hex driver I got with my M1 is 1.0 mm measured on the flats with a digital caliper. The "precise size" was 0.99mm to 1.01 mm depending on which set of flats I measured across on so I think it's fairly safe to say it's a 1.0mm hex. 1.0mm hex drivers are generally used in the medical field so yes, it's an odd size for hobby use. Maybe a 0.9mm hex driver would work, but the only way to know would be to ask the source - OMP Hobby. I don't have a 0.9mm hex driver to try, my next closest size is a 1.3mm used on the T-Rex 150 and it's definitely too big.
Thank you so much! Sure wish they included one in my kit. They're really hard to find. Your videos are really helpful!
I'm very concerned. I received my M1 with two extra batteries, but have scoured the Internet for a 1mm hex driver and found virtually nothing. I'll have to return it if I can't repair it after a crash. I'm at a loss for how others are completing repairs.
Do you know about the soft blades? Ps great work!
Can tell this is filmed in Canada 😏
Very nice review, I am thinking about getting the M2 but I may get this one also.
Do you know if a .9mm or 1.27mm hex driver can fit the small screws? They're the only driver sizes that seem to be available anywhere.
As I said in my first reply, I have no idea about the 0.9 as I don't have one. I also said 1.3 which I do have (almost the same as 1.27) is too big. Again, ask the source OMP Hobby / Buddy RC.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks. Sorry, I've been searching all evening and forgot your prior comments. Thanks for your help.
Thank you John for another great review. I’m in the market to get a new micro helicopter to replace my old XK K110. I’ve been looking at the Eachine E160 which per your review appears to be a good micro heli as well. The M1 is a lot more expensive than the E160. In your opinion how do they compare and if M1 is a better heli, is it worth the extra cost. Thank you.
No question the M1 is a better machine; in quality, design, performance, and that amazing flight fluidity. And let's not forget the direct drive main motor which is the single largest reason for the price difference. Efficient, quiet, comes down cool, and no main gear to strip out or pinion gear to come loose.
Is the M1 worth the extra $70 for all that? Only you can decide if it is. The overall value of the E160 is after all hard to beat and it's not a brand new model either which means parts support is better (for a month or so anyway).
@David Elhami After going through 2 E160's, I say just go with the M1. I've had the gyro just switch off stabilization on its own, tail twitches sometimes, you can't go back into auto-level without landing the E160. Replacing the tail boom is a bad time because the tail wiring adapter doesn't fit through the tail boom. The main gears get damaged easily. One bad tooth and the heli becomes much louder. I have the M1 pre-ordered and I already know its going to be all around better.
Are you already a skilled pilot? My K110 takes a severe beating from my mistakes and it keeps going. This helicopter looks really nice, but probably a bad idea for me to buy it now.
@@ian1352 The k110 is very good to learn on. It has some issues, weak tail boom, the main gear will loosen from the main shaft as soon as you crash into the ground without cutting throttle. The tail motor doesn't have enough power to turn when I throw it around but I'd still recommend it because of cost.
For me just being able to get parts in 3-4 days instead of weeks and weeks makes it worth the difference.
Hi John. Please can you tell me how do I calibrate the gyro so the stable mode IS stable? So the swash plate is straight? Because in my stable mode, the swashplate tilts. 😅
Sorry, no idea as I never fly mine in auto level mode so I've never looked into the process. With that said, does yours actually drift in self level mode or are you only assuming it will drift due to a slight swashplate tilt when you switch into self level mode? If it's the latter, you may want to fly it first to see if there actually is a drift because a slight tilt of the swash is very normal when switching into self level to compensate for the left tail rotor translating tendency (LTRTT).
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for your reply. I see. It actually drifts heavily. 🤔
Does it come with.a radio and if not what do I need?
It's a BNF (bind & fly) model so no radio. It requires a 6 or more channel computerized radio with collective pitch RC helicopter programming (pretty much all modern day computerized radio's have heli programming). The M1 works with their internal OMP or Futaba S-FHSS protocol receiver, or you can use an external micro Spektrum DSM2/X or S-Bus receiver.
hi john can you help me my omp m1 will not go into self level. the led flashes in all modes normal idle up 1 and 2
Very difficult to diagnose issues like this remotely without seeing your setup in person and the helicopter - I don't even know what radio system you are using. Stabilization mode is selected through channel 5 output, so you will have to figure out why your channel 5 output is not changing depending on how you have it configured. In future, please direct technical questions like this to me through my website, as I only see a fraction of the comments on videos.
Wow! Never seen anything like it. The maneuverability, semi-frighteningly incredible.
( I'd like to see a life-sized one.
( ... w/ the pilot operating the "RC" while inside of it, in the cockpit.
( That'd be ridiculous. )
Can you recommend a decent non 3d heli up to this price range?
I presume you mean a fixed pitch heli over a collective pitch? Collective pitch helicopters need not be setup for 3D flying. You can setup them up for trainer, normal, or scale type flying for example. The M1 like most CP helicopters, can be a very docile flying little machine with the correct setup. Regardless, best to contact me through my website ( www.rchelicopterfun.com ) as UA-cam comments make for a poor communication exchange medium on topics such as heli selection & recommendations that generally require follow up questions/answers.
Good day my friend can I bind this helicopter using the Flysky FS-i6X AFHDS 2.4G 10CH Transmitter and how please I need to get myself one
I'm not a flysky user so I have no idea if it will work or not. As I state in the video, the M1 will bind to Futaba S-FHSS, Spektrum DSM, and OMP protocols only. Only those 3 and out of those 3, if you want linear throttle response and linear collective output, you need to use either S-FHSS or DSM protocol. OMP protocol defaults to the built in governor and alters collective range.
I do have so x6 transmatter that is futaba S-FHSS and a spekturm DX transmatter could I use one of thies
If you are referencing the XK X6, then yes, it uses S-FHSS protocol so it will bind to an M1; provided of course you get the S-FHSS version of the M1 or get the OMP protocol version with a separate OMP S-FHSS micro receiver.
Thank u so much my frind u do have a bless one
Good review. Sadly I can't get Omp batteries posted to me so I won't be buying this Heli. I have the M2 but buying batteries that fit and can be delivered to me is proving impossible. It's a bad idea for omp to limit battery size like that. It's a pity. A very negative selling point.
I'm sure there will be several aftermarket packs once the M1 gets established like there are for the M2 now. And who knows what is currently out there that will fit? Have you looked? I haven't had the time to look and size what 2S 300 to 400 mah packs are already out there with those dimensions or a little smaller. I actually found some smaller Nanotech 300 mAh 2S packs that I have and flew the M1 with them this morning. They fit fine (with a piece of foam to take up the space), but the flight times are shorter. Still, it's giving me more flying time until I can source some others.
Same problem here. Locally I can find a 650mAh that's 5mm longer, but slightly lower width and height. There's a 750mAh that is the right length, 0.5mm higher and 3mm wider. So nothing that would be just right for the M2. Previous experience tells me I'd have to modify the holder to take whatever is available. Looks like the same will apply to the M1.
Sounds like ya'll need to invest in a 3d printer and get a little creative.
Size matters. Skip the 🐝 and get the 🐦.
I have the exact setup but my TX16s refuses to bind :( any ideas?
Presume you are running OMP's protocol? If so, the only thing that comes to mind is you need to adjust your frequency fine tune value. Default is 0, but the range is about -125 to +125. I cover that tuning process in my updating to OMP protocol video: ua-cam.com/video/PiuTGS3SHHg/v-deo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun I am running OMP's protocol and tried the frequency tuning and still not luck sadly.
@@Rchelicopterfun Figured out the problem! I found a little more information on the m1's protocol and for my version I needed to use SFHSS in MUTIL not OMP. I don't quite understand why it wouldn't be OMP's protocol but if you could explain, that would be helpful! :)
Glad you got it sorted. There are two version of the M1 now as I mention in the description. One with a built in OMP RX and one with a built in S-FHSS RX. You must have ordered S-FHSS version 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Yeah I just found out! I've been learning a lot about it and when I ordered mine I didn't know a whole lot about the protocols! Thank you for helping me out I appreciate it very much! :)
Doesn't it come with a radio transmitter?
It's a BNF model (bind & fly).
What did I learn? If I buy an OMP Hobby M1, the chances of me ever getting it into the air is basically zero. No instructions, can't charge the battery, have to take a course in setting it up, have to take a course in operating the radio, need to buy tools, etc.
Well... I started again at the beginning of the year... thanx to the lockdown (in France our second one....) 🤔
I had to learn everything and all the video from John Salt were full of very useful information
I would say ... start with a very simple one, like the e119... then the XK K110 ... and then you can try something as complex as the OMP thing
For the record I built my first complete kit , an ALZRC 380 few time ago and thanx to John Salt video and it’s ebook... the maiden flight was perfect
Go also to a forum like Heli freak or RC Group a ton of help there
@RS Nekmes - Congratulations partner, you just described the fun, fascinating, educational and engaging learning curve of what the hobby of building, maintaining, and flying collective pitch RC helicopters is all about. Glad I was able to give you the 1000 foot view of the hobby in a single 25 minute long video.
While it seems daunting and the learning curve is steep, it's so rewarding. Don't be discouraged, but start smaller. It's safer and cheaper to learn CP on a Simulator and a Nano S2 or something like it. This part of the rc hobby isn't for everyone though. Coaxial helis are super fun and much easier for real beginners.
Yes a simulator is going to save you a lot of pain...
Get something like the XK k110 to learn on. It flies well and can take a lot of abuse. I know because we've slammed ours hard into trees, walls and the ground. I've only had to replace the main blades once, the tail rotor a couple of times, the tail motor once and the plastic gear a couple of times. That might sound bad, but it took many serious crashes to do the damage. The parts that wear out or break are also not too expensive.
I know everyone recommends using a simulator, but I didn't find it improved my flying of the real helicopter much, if at all. Flying the real thing instead improved my skill in the simulator. Somehow for me the simulator is in some way detached.
You mentioned that it's of using a micro s-bus receiver. So I could use my Futaba 18 SX?
Yep. OMP's micro S-FHSS RX with S-Bus output for example specifically for their models. www.banggood.com/custlink/v3vYponbKB
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John
I wish I understood setting these ccpm helis up the way you do!! I can build them and fly them but going into my spektrum radio and knowing how and what to set up has been my downfall in this hobby. I've got several helis and none of which I had anything to do with the setup. I have a blade 550x that I love to fly but if I wreck it, I'm screwed because the guy that set it up for me lives up north and I'm in the south . Me not being able to wrap my brain around how to set these things up after build almost makes me not want to even mess with them but I just love so much to fly them. It's very frustrating and disheartening to not understand all that goes into setting one of these up. I've watched a lot of the videos on UA-cam and when it comes to understanding pitch of throttle, blade and how much and why, I'm lost or high and low rates how much and why I'm lost. There are so many things to setup in the radio just to get this little guy in the air , it's pretty much a hopeless situation. I want this heli but the last thing I need is another heli to sit around because I don't understand how to set it up.
@blackhawktim 12 : I do have an e-book that covers collective pitch setup & addresses your frustrations head on. It's based on my 3 decades in the hobby & instructing: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
@@Rchelicopterfun I appreciate the offer but I'm afraid it would be like the videos I watched on UA-cam explaining how to set these up. For whatever reason I couldn't wrap my brain around what they were saying and I'm sure reading it in a book might not be any different. Unfortunately I think I'm one of "THOSE" people that has to have certain things explained in layman terms. LOL I'm afraid what I probably need is someone who knows this stuff the way you do to sit down with me and go through both electric and glow setup procedures that I could use with any heli, that way no matter what heli I had I could be confident in the setup but there isn't anyone near me who can do that so I'm just stuck not grasping the concept. I may try it though, thanks.
👍👍👍👍